Tnia 
il 


.lOLRNAL  or    VU  \\IA< 


I.NCI.AM).  HOLLAND   AM)   S(  <H  LAM) 


\^  n  1'  \>-  \<;[>    ()\i:i{  'j'ili:  ATi.W  I'M 


!N     I  :!;      \  r  \1'.-    I-"".     \Mi    1;- 


M"N-.   ri;:M  '. I'  M.:.\    fi',-  fi 
'    1  I  i:  i  -   (I,     -ill.    <  I  !  h.'!- 

M  ■  i.i'    I.IMI  Ml  ■;. 
WUiA:  \  (HA  >][-.> 

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M W-l!  W  l,\  : 

i : ;  J(  K 


L-JsTRICT  OF  CONNECTICUT,  «f. 
iii",  IT  RF.MF.MKERFD,   Tljat  oti  the   iiineteenlii 
(Hy  of  Januitry,  in  the  foily-i'oiu'ih  year  oi'  the  In- 
'.!i:;])eii(iei)ce   of    t!ie   Unilcd    Stales   of    America, 
>,^__.^^/'' ^r""--'-^"^-'^'  ?ii,i  [iiAN,  of  (he  said  District,  liuth  do- 
iiL^ji0>^   posited  in  thi-i  OUicc  t!ic  tille  of  a  book,  the  right 
i'iicreof  he  ciodms  as  aiitiio:-,  in  tl-e  wordi  foliowitu:;;  to  wit; — 

'•A  Journal  ofTravef^^  in  Eiia;la!Kl,  Ilolland  and  Scotland,  and 
^■f  two  passages  over  the  Atianti(\  in  the  years  18()5  and  ISCiO; 
"iviMi  considerable  additions,  pr  ncipaliy  ii-oin  the  oi'ijjinal  iNlanu- 
'cripts  of  the  autiior.     Third  edition,  in  three  volumes." 

In  conformity  to  tiie  act  of  the  Congress  of  the  I.'nitcd  States, 
t  r.titled,  "  An  Act  for  the  eiiconi'E'.gemcnt  of  Iciirning,  by  securin_; 
I'h;  co]iies  of  AKips,  C'laits  and  Books,  to  the  auth.ors  and  propr; 
ciors  of  ;uch  copies,  d.iriiig  the  times  therein  tnentioned." 

cfLAS.  A.  T?;(;Kr,soi,L, 

Cleric  ofl/ie  District  of  t'oitntciitnl. 
and  so 


A  ti'iie  coj)y  of  Recr;-; 


iaijiaiei 

CllAS.  A. 

Cln-I;  ofHiC  J)i 


lied  by  nio, 
):\{ir.!lSOLL. 

':!rir<  :,f  Con.icr 


•LA 


1  lii  rA<  I 


ill  ;  111.  ni;-!   i  m  ii-" 


■Ml,  jpin  "in  1.  =  :    I  .'i  -iiii  "'.'  i.;"   ■■> .  •■  ■'  III''  <i:.  M' :'  ii;'  . 
'!    i!i'  II    !:''•, M\.    .ill  '  j'iiili'^iylii'  ,:1  ,;ii.!    ■iicinr  .li    .'[  ;.,i,     - 
i:-:   :i:;.l.  t!ir\  .l.t' 1  iui,:i  .1  "!i  -<'i..';i;     :  ;i  .'M'!!!  io  I  mimj-    , 

\     ~  r,.c.  :ii--  ■>!''    !  Ill  I  \.  (  :il'-  !,ii-  ;,  ;  -      -M'i   .\   >  -  ;- :  1.  .w  i  ,  1  ,. . 

•\    '1  nu  -.  ll    M  - ;;.  1;  'ji;'!!;  i;;i;:,;i  s  ;;>  !i:'.  ;l!t  I  V'"!!'.  lor  aiNjiiii- 

:  i;.!    ri,!;i;l.Hi.  (  -p>  ■  :,ili\    i:i  >  !!:'i!:i-l! ;.  .  \^!:^■li  il   u,.s  :.i> 

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4  rHEFACE. 

came  so  generally  known,  that  their  publication  was  talked 
of  as  a  matter  oi'  course.  J  uniformly  declined  to  listen  to 
any  proposition  on  tiie  subject,  as  it  had  been  my  determin- 
ation, from  tl'.e  first,  to  withhold  the  work  from  the  jircss. 

But,  a  tjood  while  after  my  return,  an  application  was 
made  to  me,  under  circumstances  so  peculiar,  th.at  I  was 
compelled  to  take  it  into  consido'arion.  After  perusintr 
the  manuscripts,  with  reference  to  tliis  object,  consultiiicf 
literary  friends,  and  deliberalin<i',  a  lon<j;  time,  I  consented, 
uot  witliout  much  anxiety,  to  attempt  the  difficult  task  of 
])rej)arin;_f  them  for  publication.  It  was  difii-ult,  becatise 
the  public,  not  my  friends^  were  now  to  be  my  J!u!!.!es,  and 
because  it  wiis  scarcely  possible  to  [ireserve  th.e  sjiii'it  and 
freedom  which  had  interested  the  !;i;ier,  with.oul  vit-latinp- 
the  decorum  which  was  due  to  flie  former,  and  to  nianv  re- 
s^pectablc  individuals,  whc^se  names  apiic'ra-d  in  w\y  journal. 

Willi  a  desii^n  to  preserve  iLis  m(  hiim,  ihe  whole  has 
been  written  anew.  Adthiions,  omiss:;ins.  aii<l  alteratitms 
have  been  made,  but  t!:ey  ha-,e  hee!i  as  h\\  as  j;(issible, 
and  it  lias  under'ione  so  little  nuitation,  eit'ier  in  fdnn  or 
.■-u.bstance,  that  the  spirit  and  e'laracter  o!  the  work  remain 
ess(^ntially  unciumged  ;  how  far  it  has  been  renderi'd  nu)re 
(it  for  the  public  eye,  those,  who  ha\c  peruseci  tlu'  ori'/inal 
volumes,  during  a  period  of  more  than  three  years  that  have 
elap-e'l,  since  their  completion,  will  be  best  able  to  judsie. 

Ferliajis,  I  ought  lo  ajiologize  for  inlet  weaving;  in  tlie 
jonrnal.  so  much  of  my  own  persona,!  history,  and  lor  in- 
troducing Si)  many  of  ni}'  own  nauarks  ;r.id  reileedons, 
but.  t'lcse  things  \.ere  so  condjined  with  tlic  very  tissue  of 
the  work,  that  it  would  ha\e  been  ie.ijxis.^ilde  to  wilh- 
drav,-  tiscu!,  without  d(vslroying,  completel},  tlie  t<\\tiire 
uf  ihe  i;d>r!C. 

'J'hi'  ai)'loL:y  iiu]>HrfJ^  in  this  simple  unvaiiii^hed  (ale.  ! 
am  scn^ilii:'.  i.v  r(r-/  frltCy  and  b-y  many  will  be  rcv'a.rded 
a-'  iiKubni^sibii>. 

|]()Vve\er  this   may  bi',  1  have  discharged  a  duty  hji  tcJ- 
a II <^ 'hi:  Irnlli  :   m  hat  1  have   said  will   be  believed   in  Ui}- 
nat'.vc  Stat;',  where  the  prine!|';d  facts  nvv  well  ke.own. 
iJKN.I  \\I!\    Si!.!  IM  \\, 


I'RI.I  A(  f 


I   I  .  \    M  ,',  -   n.  \  .'    1  I,  :  -t  ■!   -liir.    iii.'  I:! -I  *  ,iil!i  :i    i  !    in;^ 

i!.   .::  :;ir  :r.  .  '  :    I  '  :\'.l    -,'!''■     ;i.r     ■•    •fil''  :  :-i:i    -!•  .i-  I'l:;' 

ll.i;i    \\   \      -    1    ,,;  r    ■   \:i.'. :   -It  ,i.     ill  i;     ,t   ■  'i.;  il  '-K  :i-   i  .ilU  ,i    ;■■.  . 

I     ih:"'  '■    -  Ihi'i-     ill.'     Ml  •  -1  'il     \,.  ,'^     (i.  il  .  Ill  ,  .  .  i     ,  .  ;.  i   ';' 

'    ■    i.ii  11!   ;i;  -  'i'i  M    I-  Iv  ill-  |i.':i     ,  : 

h  \ .  r.    Ill  inif    ;i    \  t  :  ■•,    i' 

■'■    •'  .11 '     I  1  :     ■  ;  :!•     ".'.  .  :  ...- 


\   I"  li  \\  1^    T''. ,::-'•■.  !•'    c 
I  : I ■ '  - 1  ■  v.  i  1 "    ! j . I \  ' ■    I  il  i ! . ■    II' 

■  11  u'  !■  >■  i:i;M,i..  u  ;  !.  I'l    I  . 
:i!,'i  '.i  :i;i  11'    ■       ■       .       i  ■ 


'  .    ■■II''  '•l;..    I- 

,    ..':7''     '/       ,■' 
■   /•-<■„■,/.,'. 
"  f  I, I  ■',',/      ;y,        ,  /.  'l    : 

I  i  '  •    '    1  I  _     •..:■'•    I.\  :■'      .  •  ■  1  ,  '  1 1 
!'■  i;  i\     \\  i; '.  .  i      .  ,!  >     \. 


I, If  ,:ii 

l!l,;f     :i 


subjects,  whorover  It  appeared  they  conld  best  be  sparc(!. 
Alter  ail,  the  production,  thus  compressed  and  curtailed, 
appeared  (without  my  |)rivily,  and  contrary  to  my  ex- 
pectallons,)  in  tv;o  volumes.  The  reception  which  it 
met  with,  from  my  countrymen  (which  I  beg  leave  to  ac- 
kuowledi^e  with  gratitude)  caused  me  to  recret,  that  any 
j)art  of  the  prepared  manuscript  had  been  sujipressed,  and 
evinc(;d,  t'lat  the  fears  of  my  pubiislier,  and  the  o})inion 
of  his  adviser  were,  equally,  groundless,  indeed,  if  uu- 
thiynly  were  to  be  the  criterion,  I  conceived  myself  to 
ha\e  passed  that  ordeal  with  sufiicient  solenmii}-,  for,  the 
auindscriiJt  was  sulrmitted  to  the  successive  criticisms  of  a 
iiuinl)er  of  littrary  friends,  among  whom  were  accomplish- 
ed scholars,  and  persons  of  mucli  delicacy  of  taste,  and  it 
is  no  more  than  truth  to  sav",  that  their  suggestions  were, 
almost  invariably,  rrspe<  ted  :  for  T  assumed  it  as  a  g(M)eral 
priiiciple,  that  what  has  struck  an  inU;l!igent  and  candid 
adviser  as  wronj;-,  will  of  eoursjc  strike  many  others  in  tlic 
same  manner. 

\n  iihistiious  liierary  h'iend,  (now  no  more)  originally 
advise.'!  me  strongly,  to  '.he  puiiiieation  of  ilic  whole  Jour- 
nal, a.s  written  in  i'.urepe  and  on  the  ocean,  (with  only  a 
■;<'ry  lew  oniissi.:i:;>  aiul  alu,  rations,)  and  this  advice  he 
sireiiuous'v  rt-newcd.  \\\wa  the  seco-ul  edition  was  pub- 
iished.  It  uas  \:i-\  \\^)\\v\vy  till  the  prescriit  (^dilion  was 
.ii  lireiiiied  oii.  iliat  i  made  i;]i  my  mind  to  revise  ti!" 
v,(,,i..  v.  idi  a  \'(  v>  to  \{<  en.br-jcmeiit.  \\  ith  tliis  view.  I 
li^iv::  r''-iMser!ed  th;'  iiiaiier  which  v^as  ]ii-cp;'rrd  lor  tlie 
\;x\l  ediilfat,  and  ai'!Or\>.irds  snppres-ed  :  1  have  (m.c  ladv 
;  •|i'■rli-^^'d  the  ori^'inal  mauKsri-ipis^  anU  have  dravi  i\  jVom 
iuciu  a.  vai'ietv  of  lacls  and  r-'ni^irks,  which  h;ive  i'.i.i  ap- 
j.eaied  in  the  i'ormer  ('(hlions  ;  and  lV<i!u  ni} dun  recol- 
•icciitm'-.  wliidi  arc  <.ri'ni'ra!l\'  \  e'ry  di.-thict,  rrjfarding  tli*^ 
liiflilinis  el'lhis  loui',  1  hav.'  dei'jvcd  no!  a  lew  thir.^s.  of 
wiih-!]  ■\\\'  iit.uiuscrijils  conlaiiied  oiiiy  sii'f'it  mWic--,  fi 
ut'iie  al  all  ;  iiiil.  nunr.  oi' which,  I  \\:\\\'  !;*  en  ri/easidmcd 
(i>  s;;j!i'  iii  c'ii:s,  r^  aiiiu  vii'i!  my  i'rien-is.  I  have,  in  I.ti. 
diuiui'.  liie  week-  ,';,!■;  ihis  re\i.  al  has  occupied  me,  Irar- 
if'ri  /,':!'  .'(<<''/■  (<>:•  I"  :  ihr  ihri'ad  oi'  assoriiitiou  has  aidi"! 
hieui'Tv.  Ml  !/ri -■:.i;;'^  ;ij)  na;n"!;  ■;••  rv/ai:-:  i<\)u  <  ir<'n't)->t;u'- 


I  ."- .  :i  n'i  1,1  i  \i\M.  a-  il  ili'"v  li  111  li  ijV  'Ml' 'i  >■.  i.i^i.iv  ; 
pi;.  :'  >!'!':_'  x-i,\\  •■:  -.',!i''i:^  lii'.  .■  1 1  '  pi''  •!.  in  lii'-  \<'i  v  >t\  '.r 
,.  i,.  1  v|  p  it  ni  u  !i;rii  [!i'-\  Will'  uM'Tii',  ,;!i  i,  a'li:  >','_  ii  ll:.' 
I  '-k  lia-  li"'ii  -m;!!,  \'>  II  It  l.ili'  I  ma^.  |  |i,i\i'  i.ai.Ai.i  tia* 
,    .a-',;'  V  ,.1  ih''  i'"i;  .  aia!  \:\^^^}  il:>  ju  ;  ,'i  i  c!  iii\    111''  '  m  i 

lai.  I  il''  i'\;i  II!  m|  I;;  •  :i.i,illi":is.  is.  Hi  i;i  -.inji''  -.,ii;'  :,- 
■■-  a.M'l  ji.'.a-^.  I  j  lii--.  IIP  !•'  I  ii!!.''  ^a'l'''^  1-  aaa  -'riiia!<. 
i:.  iiPPvP',  !  la  111.  :i  i..i-  1"  'a  i,'  i  '  -a  \  ii  ■.•',--.(  a  lla  w  .a  !w 
.'.]■■:''  I  i-  1'--  (•"■a;  !•  <.i\\  .  :\.\<\  [•>  I: I.  im  I  hi  a'itia'aa'  il  ni  :t- 
;  1,  PI  jp.  iji' |-  .ria a  p;  li.  '•,  i:,;ii  a  ii.aiii;  ii;"as  r.aiia  \:.a 
\,  a  a  an'  ;■  ;_'  s  ,,li,  a  i\  pi  ai;''.!.  1 1"'\  l.a  ih.  ,'.  ■:!  k  i-  nai- 
. ',  : '  !  I  a  • ' '  ■  a  ■  ■"  ri  ■  >  1 1  a  _ .  t  a- .  w  !  1 1  1 1 1 1  ,  i  a  i  j  a  >  i  ■.  >  a  a :  a  I  i .  I !  1 1." 
]  ai'  ,'■  \'.  a;  |,h!  -p.  \  !l!i"a  ai  iiai'-ii  II  ■>  •■■  ;  i;  aa'li'.l,  I'l.- 
a  111  i^  111  iiMii  !;,;'■■  I-  a  a  i'\'r.,r.  a''.!.  !  w  i  up  .  a  I-",  liuiaiij 
iii\  .I'p'  'I'l'.  p  ,:.  ■  ..I  Is  ill  M'>  i'^''  .  -a  -'  p  IP. PIP  aaa  jaD- 
':■  --;.'ii  11  ■-a  i|  I  !-.  Iiat  ■_  -'i-r.'lis'  ,-  p  pP'  a  U  ■:'.:  aari  ilihaipj 
Pi'  PI  iiilii  !a\  J.,  iippi.  I'l  Mp  jnis,  p!  I  ,i,p,  a  I  ii,i\i  .  ill 
;  ;.  w  ia-I  an  '  .  >!■  \  ;  'p  .i  i;  i 'ii:  ,  Ips  i  pi  s  ■  ;  lipi  li  i  ,-•  to 
I',  ippii  I  il'-  I '  IP  a  \v  .,\\    pp,;P  •  I  .s;  IP  • .  p  PI  1 1  :ss  ;  111  i  ;  li\  . 

I  IIP  pM'Pii":-  s    p,  ,ir,  1 1,;,;  .-     '.||  .   1  ipip.'.    ill,'    I',  i'  hiali'il 

!  p  p  I  p  a  p  ; .    i ' .  I  \  I    I "     a  p  p  1 1 : 1  ~  s ,  u .       i   1 1  p  >  i  \  i  ■  ■  I    I ; .  i  i  a    1 1 1  1 1 1 

\\     ,a,i>-\  i.-P' I'l  lip.    pa'laaa\.     ,ia   pii'lnaiu   in  wlii'li    I 

'    MP,,  a   ppp',    .iji|.'    il.   a-,    ilii-  M  p-  i  ,i!/'-   ;a  Pi   is   I    1  liip    1  ;■  .III 

iip,,p/i'  p..   I.I    diir    w.i!  1.         I  11.  V't  \'  a  ;la  i  i  i:pp.    ,ii|.i    Pi 

^I, .   I  Ipm"  1;  i.|  PI  .  ''■  !"'  s  ,  I  1'  _  p.ps  jii  iiii'ij.l,  s  ill.  s    ii'ii.  ,iail 

;'..  ir  i  ilia   pp.'  i.  i  ;  :i       ■     p   •; .  i  i i;     '    a;  i ii.'  ji'ii:!'.- aiiuii  nl 

'1'.    .,  p  1  '.v  ,1      pi-'.a.il  il'.        \  -.    imu  1  \  I aa 

p ,  • . .  . ' .  I !  1 "  '  ^'  .  1 1 1    .  i  \    i  i  1  \  i  1  \\  .    i . :  1  •  I   1 1   I : !  I 

.    ''  il  .   i  |p.  ,•  "-  1,1  ]  ill  \^ .    p  ,1  1  .Is  til,'   I  \  :- 

..I  I  :  ■  p'   !  ..PI'  ,  s  ,  ;  1  ;    ;   \\  I  ,  i, ,  s.ii ;    - 

•   .  .  p  • .  I     P ; , . '  1 1 . 1  .  i '    '  p  s  - . , , .  1  ,  I    p'  I , ' 

:  i     a;  i  pi  -'il'.'i'i   P  1  •'!.'  a  I'll'  1  iiN' 

.  ,'  ".  .  ■  I  .  .1  ;-'■  Il   I.  I-   I , ,  ,.'.  .i    iip>    '..  'i\ 


ill- 


1  '  ■:<-•  r\ 


■.•!;:■     I .  •  \  : .  ■  A  . '  I  s 

.i'i    il     \  I  I  \    'I'll  1.1- 

ip'   \'.  I'll  '..  Ill    li'.a...  .1   i\  111  1.1 


8  rnKFAcE, 

remarks,  any  farther  than  they  go  to  estaijlisli  t\\e  fidelity/ 
of  this  work,  for,  truth  is  the  first  qLiuIiacatiov.  oi' a  travel- 
ler, as  well  as  f:f  a  witness,  or  of  an  histoiiaa:  fimJ,  even  ou 
tlic  tojjic  of  veracity,  the  followin'^  short  rciiiark  is  all  (hat 
1  shall  cite:  "His  Joiinial  represents  tni;ki;Kl  to  lisc  A- 
mericans  as  it  is/"*  On  this  j)oint  J  may  perhaps  i)e  a.l- 
loweci  to  add,  tiial  T  li-ive  often,  by  direet  jjer-ojial  eoni- 
niunicatioiis,  recrived  the  thaaiks  of  natives  of  ('rit.jin.  for 
what  they  have  been  ])k^ased  to  eall  fi.ir  !r<  ;!t!i-.'nt  of  their 
r.onntry  ;  aiid,  except  the  anecdotes  reiatiiiu  to  Mr.  Hume, 
I  have  never  learned,  that  any  importJint  part  of  the  state- 
ments in  t!ie  b(vjk  lias  heen  seriously  questioned.  On  tiro 
eontraiy,  riii!,i'r;ers  of  j-iy  eourarynien,  w.io  liv.rc  visited 
Jhitaiii  since  tnis  JouriKil  was  first  jjnhiishv  1.  laive  assrirod 
a\e,  that  they  ha\  e  kept  it  by  thei>i,  as  a  t  iiide  in  their  ol)~ 
servalious  and  travels,  so  ihr  as  ll\c]f  '•o:aes  have  corrcs- 
i)onded  with  niiue,  and  thai  vhoy  liaxf  not  discovered  any 
material  err:»rs. 

I  now  eoi:;!!,it  ;!;e  work,  iV>r  ihe  ihird  tii'M.'.  to  (lie  can- 
dor of  my  coeaitrviriee,,  .rn^^tlnL;-  th;>t  tliey  vill  pardon  the 
explanations  which  aopcarcil  to  i.v..',  necessaiy,  on  tiic 
nrescnt  oc:'usio:i. 

T.Ky,j\MlX  S1LM3IAN. 


roM  i:\is  {){'  ^(^iA.M^:  i. 

\  ,.   l._^l'  \^v  \(.i;    lo    |.\(.i.  \M). 
\  ..    II.-  I.i\  !iJI'<  )!>!.. 

\      ■  ;    li  -    ■'  -    \:i   i:-i    i:   .1  Cli'M.i,    --(■  i\,ili;.     - 

■     ,  !.  •    i      \    In-'i'  "■  .1' 1»  !;■  iv    ;..   ,i:',  ii- 

1  ';   .-'■■  k;i  -   -  \    >  ::   ,,1  ..1   ■.  ■     ■iii.iil— -  \ 


i',!    r 


.  ill.  — i.i\  r.i;i'.)oi.. 

i'   .,■      :,'-  \    ■•■,,,•   ,:|     -li    '    ■    -     I),; 

■hi,.    -  I'l.    -  .   M,  ,-  ..l.,,;,:.. ,-■.,.    1 

■  1     ■,      -.-H     li'M-i-|\      -      !t    .,■'.---    \1     -. 

I).;.  .:..rk      -I!  ,.  '.. 

1    .'./.I  li;   1      I'!    I  ;.'■    Nr,  .j  .1, 

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■    ;    ;;i-:,       I    ;■  .-  .  /■          \t  ii,.-  .    ,  -  ;■. 
-1   l:l  ■,i(i  ■,  ■-      W   ■  !'    i"    ;i  ili  -   i:' 

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I  (   )  1     !  '  \  :      ',        I       .      1    I  II        I  '  1      \ 


10  CONTENTJ. 

No.  VTJ.— THE   PEAK  OF  DERBYSHIRE/'"*' 

t'aslleton — The  winding  gai." — Valley  oi' Castleton  and  the 
snjTOundiiig  liiuijiilains — Ancient  fosse — Ca;  lie — Mam  Tor 
— lis  ruin  5 — Auocdotr — Peculiarity  of  language — Guides — 
Peak's  Hole — Description  of,  and  adventures  in  it — Hu- 
mour of  the  ,<;n!!t'--Oivdin  iMitje — iMiners — 'J'lieir  cheer- 
inhiess,  liai-dsiiip--^  and  (Ianj,'er,s— Speedwell  Mine — Snhtcr- 
f  aneous  voyatje — ^Voi:d;n'ful  cavern — Spar  Mine — Descent 
into  it— lieturn  to  Bisxtoii— (Seolojrieal  remarks  on  tlie  Peak 
of  Derbyshire — Ehhinr  and  ilowing  veil — Contrivance  to 
.-^ve  I.ihonr — Singular  want  of  curiosity.  -  -         lb; 

No.  ^  III.— BUXTON  TO  LEICESTllR. 

iJuxtou — Silnation— -Climaie— Its  mit^eral  Avalers-Itide  to 
■\shbor;!-"Siugular  iii Us— Sudden  coe.trnst— -Leices!er,-,!iire 
---Great  beauly  of  the  eountry— Curiosity— I, eiccsler-'Kos- 
»\orth  fields— Richard  Hi. — Singular  use  made  of  hi-  (  uffin.    Hi; 

\o.  IX.— LEICESTER  TO  BIRMl\G]IAI\1. 

ilide  io  Covetitry--Ladies  and  bami-boxcs-— Covcn'ry  elec- 
tion— Crowd— -Coid'usion—l'pruar — ).^ruiikeniies'>--I,u;'i- 
i  rons  scene— Violence  of  Eiiglish  elections— Stage  coach 
ro:;vcrsa(inns.  -  -  -  -  -  1  iS 

N;).   N.-- -BlRiMnOIIAM  TO  EONBON. 

li:;'iiiinghat)i--Vrai.i  and  liolton--l1r.  Priestly— -ilide  to  (*xf!;"d 
--  Stratford  (lu  ,\\o,i-— (,'aution  in  doscendifig  hills---\Vood- 
:~'oc!;---(..>\ford— -C.istuiiie  of  the  acadeiriies---«;;randeur  and 
ii'Tuity  of  the  tiJWii-  Fdde  to  Lotniori  — Henley--P)''au(y  ot' 
•■■;i('  lounlry —  s  b(;:^:;''-i' — Approach  lo  the  nieirojiijlis — 
r.quiiirg;'----!  ioiiUHiow  l'ie:'.lli--Ai  rival  in  i.oi:d(>:i.  -  l')f-^ 

Xo.  NI.-LOM)0X. 

The  T'.'d!  S;u,ic;e  !'nn---SI.  Paid's— Podgii!gs---.\T,uiner  of  liv- 
ii:'.'--.'.;oar!i':iii;-lio'.iS'/>  almost  inikno\vu---KTp''n-e  :'.i;'i  cnn- 
\  '  i;i:'r.;-e  ci  f  ,,h',iii- ■-■-Loud.ui  intricate— -i'-atiii.;  h-iii-i--.--- 
J.sHer:=-  -'i'hr-  ;!ii,ini;!ie;U  of  l-OMdoii--0peniiig  of  fr.c  liew 
,;nck— -CN.r.fii'iiiics  on  til:;  i.;;casioii.  -  -  iG/ 

So.   X!!.— EON  DON. 

r'l!'.-  ((i>\-<i  .  -t)ri:-i,i--!'--J'' ui--\  foiiit  11  of  the  ','iiard---'r: 'v.  i'" 
gi  I  us— '!!;.'  Spal.i^h  :iniioui'y---(iMecn  !"n::;!l;.';li---\\  siliNiiig- 
^tici:  of  I ;(  iiry  \1!1 — \n  aneienl  aye  u-rdal  e\ccu'ious--- 
Svi.dl  ai  :.,ouiy- — Ancient  cannon---i)eaulifu!  aiiT.i,  -euieur 
oi  .-..'iial!  arui^---!  iorse  iu  iilCiU'} ---l\ii;£s  on  h'>;-(i^;tck  -- A  r- 
uioiir  (if  I'i.-tmgnished  iiai: viduaf-— Tiif  rcga:ia--'Ciiiwi;-, 
scejitri'~.  diadems,  c^c.---'i'Iifir  great  beau!}  and  vahu'--- 
Wild  bea-ls  ofthe  towiu'— lncideiil-^--A  ho-pilal— .Missioii- 
r.ry  SociLl\'---i'ai;orama  oi  (.'il'rellar.  •  -  iT'i 


I'rt.r 


A  ..    :M---l),-tri:":',-:i  m1    |.ij/f>  tin  i-.  ---  \iiri:    Oifirr--  (',■11-'' 
.  .  I'     iM-!l:',^iMi-H(  -r !  ;r-i  :.)n^  iiii|h.-<-.!  mi  !.',•  ijim  !-   ;:ii-i.; 

■--Km  !f|n--     .'1  -   -i-r-  ■'!     I'-     i.Ji.  •  1- \'.  •  -:inii!!ii      Vl.s.  \  •-- 

i'-     '.i>:'ni'\     .11    _r:i':-li';ii---- \I  Miiiiiii-n'-  ,t,i'l    ii;   1    ;  j  ■' .  '.-i- 

•-    I  >.!trl.i!,-i-  ,<l  ;;!i'   ;;  i(  ;i-.:I   aihl  1U"|  If  1  !!  ta -I '■---I  ,n  I  >!•  .i! 

I.  ir,..  k  -    M.  ni.     -a  .... 

\,,.   \i\  ._i.()M)(t\. 

\'        ■ .  •■  ,■  ,n    '  I  r  K  ill,    .11  a  i     Mr    W  .    !  --■  \  ii   .Aiiii-a  mi    i:i!.) 


',■• 


H       ! 


\,,.    \\  ._I()M)()N. 

V  --M-  r  .'■  .I1----M''  !,;i  i;i;-  r\:.l.>-i  .;i<---r:v.,.r!i 
:•  \  <--■);, -.!  --  M:..,^.,....lli,  r.-|aiu!,r  ■  1, '..mi' i'a.-  ■---!l,, 
r.M  :,a'ii.  li  i:.^'-:,.i.'  \  ■-  \ii  iif  .aU  a  ni  i!>--  !  Ii  ■  -iM.'  ii'ii  n!  ■■ 
I   ■(    I'..-    -'..<.-    <i:     'la-'  I-   an, TV---  \     (I  ill  ar  r--- 1  ti  -<;r\  r     ..1    lia- 


\,,.    \\  !._i.oM)()\. 

■    i,.'..;  -  !a,'   ;      ia;.  ^-IT    a.    .a     -!     .laU'.     — Call-r     ,U;-   - 
(aa'    "■,     -     a.  al    a-ai     la  "a.    |..aM,  a.-:  —  ('■I'l!.--'   'm'    •  tau  I. 

I  a  11-  — i'l'  HI-.;  •  I  ,-1    i.i.iil  laiaiaa ~-,.lrniiiii    '■-  li  |  ui  :•;=— 

I':-       !i.a-  .  I   l!a-   I  ,    a\ii 

.,    ■  ;    ■           ,  1  1  a  I,  ,a     aa  ,  , .:  - -t  .,  j.!  Ii  s     .. 

[.aa:  ,...,:,,.    a   111  _rra,a,|  ;  ,  ,'la,- 

,.,    a-     I';      • I,  :    -I.-    a   !••  ■         --|i.     ^a  ,u---\l;  ■ 


\  ..    \\  l!l.— I.<  »M>(  )\. 


Ill  •  -  '  a  a  1  • .  I  a  -  : '  .  1 1 .  I  a  -  -  1 . 
a  ,  (  ,  a  i-  V.  ;  ■  -  Wu  ,1.  I-  -I'l^,. 
■     '    .        .  ■    I,  a,    .1    Ta,  a's    -     I    a  !  a 

^  ■:■■■'■:  ■   r-  K.a/.aa:  ■•;  ;' 

a  a  a  ■  a ; '  —  '  I  j .  1 1  a  I  M ,  ■    1  ■ .  a 

.,   ,       i    -  \a  ii-  ■  !.  n: 

\  ,.    \!\._|.(  )\i)(  )\. 

\         .  ■         \a     la;.-      :ia 

.■  .     )■  I        I.    a-  ill-    ■•! 


T2  (;OX'i'F.\Ts. 

No.  XX.— LONDON. 

\  painting  room — I'ijieioii  and  liio  solar  chariof — Our  Sa- 
viour at  the  last  sDiipcr,  kc. — An  incident — Leveria;)  mu- 
seum— Birdb — Mo-ikeys — AVhimsical  an-ang-eincrit  of  tliem 
— MiaeraJs,  Lc. — A  pusU'y-cook's  siio]i — India-House.  253 

No.  XXL— LONDON. 

Anotlier  visit  to  V\'estnrni^;i.;r  Au'.H'y — Tomb  of  Henry  V.  kc. 
— Westminstei-  Fia!! — Lord  Elleahorou^h — Lord  FJrlon — 
Sir  .lames  Mansfudd — Costume  anddignity  of  the  Courts — 
A  balloon — To  lie  tiansfoi-mcd  into  a  temple — Anecdote — 
Tower  Hill — Prlemorable  foe  slate  esecntions — Has;  Fair — 
Jews — Clothes'  shou^ — Ai!.';!o-Asiatics  an(]  Africans — 
Tiieir  coni'ifion  and  treLilnienl  in  England — Slavery  un- 
known in  Ei.^laiul.  ....  ogfj 

No.  XXir.— LONDON. 

V'auiliall  Gardens — Situalion  and  extent — Splendidly  illumi- 
nat<;d — Description — Amusements  of  the  place — .Music — 
A  mechanl.-,al  panorama — P'iro  woiks — Dancing  of  courte- 
zans. -    "  -  -  -  -  -  273 

No.  XXHL— LONDON. 

Mouse  of  Commons — Inc!  nv-.iiences  to  which  spectators 
ai'e  subjected — Conversatio:.  wilii  a  menjber—lJolten  bor- 
oughs—  Debate  on  the  army — Col.  Ci'awford — Air.  "ill  — 
Lord  Castlerea:;!'. — Uiiidiiam's  retort  coni'teous — .Mr.  Fox 
— Sheridan — ;\ssoci;'(ioit  e,f  ideas — Ceremonies  and  cus- 
toms— Weather  ami  winds.  -  -  -  2'7S 

^o.  XXIV.— LOXDON. 

^  private  party — .'=Tr.  Greviile — De.;,  ended  Irom  Lord  Brook 
— T,ord  lirookV  -'iealli — .Mr  Walt — Sb-.Jo-ieph  Banks'  con- 
vcrsatione — .-iir  .Josepl) — INTajor  Heenell — His  op'inion  of 
tlie  (diatigi'S  oi  die  I'lii^lish  lan';uar,e  in  .Vmerica — Dr.  Wol- 
laston — 3)i'.  'J'ooke — Dahympie — Windham,  i>ic. — .No  cer- 
ennjny — Sir  Jo^ej)l)'s  ])ablic  breaklast — ,\necdote  of  a 
Frenchnrrin.  .  .  .  -  .  2Si' 

No.  XXV.— LOXDOX. 

Brom|)ton  fiarden — Chid'^ea  C  irden — Clirlsea  Hospit.'d  — 
jienmyof  the  ''roimd- — V'leran- — Snius>;lers  of  C;imbric 
-  Slrai!;ers  ea-ily  di-!.inpiiislird  in  Loiidon — Mendicants 
vei'v  mrcMTi-u-  in  Lo.'don — R.'.'fnice  for  ihe  de.-titnte — In- 
a  le'jnacv  ot  ihe  relief  aifo!'d<'d  by  pniuie  and  [irivate  char- 
ily—  A  .-.ncec  ■■liil  !i;'f^_;;r — ^-ohiiL'rs  and  sailors.  2'i<» 

:V,,.   XV\  i._L()M)o\. 

Ilbiminatien  with  iidiammaiile  ga  —  Its  bennfy — .^'a(ure  of 
tine  ccn'.rivrinv'e — 'flie  loyal  society- — \  iii(!lui'e  i;irdery — 
Dcni;ei-'-^  dan.diier — A  Inmtinu  piece — .l.iseph  and  Tofi- 
iiliar's  wile — .i'tcnijilto  delineate  Jehovah — Euviions  uf 
Loudon.  _.,-.-  50-1 


JOrHNAF.  OF  TIJAA  KLS,  c^c . 


\  ..  I.— IVVSSA(ii:    lO   J:\(iLAM). 

I-'-.    ,  riir-.;.'\ .  April  'I'll-  "ii  ;">'!:-'l  tin'  <>ii!.i!-;  ..  a;  -' .. 
7m  (,r,/,/  ,V,  .\i'/nniii!.  '■/  y,  irp'jrf.  I'/in-Ir  ls!,/.i'!. 

M\   iM  \i;  cKo;  iii'.iv, 

y}\  \]i>-  ;ili.  ;ii  I'lir  in  lli(  :i:'[''n!t'<.|i.  we  v;i'l"(l  lin'.i, 
N.  \\  N  Ml  is.  u  illi  .1  w  iii'l  -II  -lii'ii'j  mill  I.ilr.  tli.il  llir  -|.i;i  - 
.  I  ilir  <  ii  \  i^'^v,  ,i,  ,1  t  \iv\  111  1 1 11' 'lit  ;;>  w  1  |i:i--i'ii  i!m\vii  tin 
•.,,\  .  aii'l  \M'  li.:'l  ii:i;iils  ti;iii'  li  >  :im  i;i  i;  ••  t  !:i'  lif  nii_\  "I  llic 
liilriii-  I  linl-r.iM  .  Inlii'  iiiMi-iiiii-  hM  1  11.1  \',  ,■-  \  I-. ill''. 
:iii.l  \w  i'miiii.I  ill,,:  \\,  Inil  iii,i.;i  ,i  r.ij  i  I  Irii,-ai''U  hMin 
^.ii.imIi   w  .  hr  ,ii:  i   111  11'   v^  riiii!'  r.  til    ti  :i,ii''-;ii.  ■>    -'  .1-.    ;i;i:l 

,'!,,  1  \     -Ml    -.         'I'll    III!'    \.  ilM     li,,,i     111   \.  1      Ik  I  11    :it    v,M     h,   r.,1,-, 

ii  \\.i>  iiiit  iiii  i!ii]ii  niiii-i  M"  l'i'.j;ii;ii;  J  ;  lii-i  ii-mi;_'  -'■■' 
-i.^Mi  --  in,;;;,  .ii  i!-  !;.  li  ilL  i\\  ■  1 1.  ,;;i'i  lliis  ,;.i\  li.i.  Iiccii. 
I  1  !||  •■.  ,  ll"!,'  .  I ',.!]  i.  .  -;  m||:j  \  .  ,11.,  i  I  ;  ivi|;;il.  '|  (i\',  ,.  im\  r\  r|,i;i  J  . 
it  '■.■'  \i  '■.  I  111  ■•.I'll.-  Ill  Ml  r.  ,iiiii  w.i-  ;il,lr  In  fii'()\  ;i  ^Cfiii' 
111     i..i|ili    :;i  .11,!.  iir    .;,li|    li'':"il  '.  .     |il  II  iiii'  .1     lu     ll|i'    -I  IMl" 

-:m.  \'.  iii   !i  ■  ii.Mi  ,il\     III  ill'  III,;  iii.iii  i'i.'  I  Iii!i.^  '.  ii'ii  1  II-. it 

;ili     ,,i.|I,.         'I  i|,'    rl,,  !r    I    I     till       l|i.rl/.i.|i    W    i~     IMiImi    Ivi  11     li\ 
l:'    I  ;':-';,.(■,  II  1 1|     til  It     1  il'    lln      W  ,U  i  -  .     W  i ,.  i-i  ■    sin  lU  - 

.      M    I'M  ■•■•:■     I .  I  ■  'i  ;i  il    !!■  .','i!\    I  i-.i!!  mlr,,;.  '  \    I'n-    i . 

;    --.    \',  l.'l!i-    :i     ;.lll     \\  111'  I    ,11:1  I    ;il''    |1!  I'N- 

,.    '  ■    I  '   -.,  I.  !,■     \',  .    II, I  .    iiMiii-  ii:,:|,lr  ..111.    i.,~   |.i;-  ii  .■  vlii'i;!! 
:'  ;'  I    ii.;\ .      !  -;     m  \'.f  i  .ii  l\   !..ii  i  ..■    ili.'  up  !ii  -mi  iln  i^. 
■   ;       '   ill   1.1",    .  '       \.  \,  itli  ,     '  .   ■    I  .  ■     ■  I   i   .r  i';\    bi  .!, 


14  A    JOUilNAL    OF    inAVKL:^    I.N 

April  T' — The  morning  was  pleasant  and  the  whid  fair, 
circumstances  which  attended  us  th  ough  the  whole  day, 
and  made  it  the  delightful  contrast  of  the  preceding.  A 
little  schooner  for  Wiscassct,  from  the  West  Indies,  passed 
almost  under  our  bowsprit,  and  I  endeavoured,  in  vain,  to 
throw  a  letter  on  board  addressed  to  you.  There  was  no 
other  incident  to  give  \ariety  to  a  fine  day.  and  a  charm- 
ing moon  light  evening,  which  succeeded,  till  sleep,  almost 
as  refreshing  as  on  shore,  obliterated  the  consciousness  of 
our  situation,  and  made  us  insensible  to  our  rapid  progress. 

April  8. — Light  returned,  with  every  circumstam  e  to 
render  it  Avelcoine,  and  the  entire  recovery  of  my  health, 
.-ippetite  and  spirits,  has  put  a  new  face  on  the  ocean. 

This  morning,  a  large  hawk,  that  had  strayed  beyond 
jiis  reckoning,  hovered  ove^  the  sliip,  and  settled  upon  the 
peak  of  our  foi'e-top  mast,  where  he  poised  himself  with 
liis  wings,  as  the  motion  threw  him  off  from  his  centre. 
He  seemed  much  fatigued  and  very  hapj)y  to  tlnd  this 
jesting  place  ; — more  fortunate  he,  than  the  winged  mes- 
senger that  went  from  the  ark,  but  found  no  mast  or  shrub, 
rising  from  that  '•'  shoreless  ocean.-'  W!:en  the  hawk  first 
alighted,  an  English  gentleman  on  board  remarked,  that 
the  American  Eagle  had  come  to  preside  over  our  pas- 
sage ;  but  the  omen  seems  unpropitious,  for  our  tun  hiry 
genius  has  alrcaily  taken  his  fiight,  perhajis.  distrusting 
our  friendship,  and  indeed,  with  some  reaFon,  lor  our  i)as- 
sengers  had  been  regretting  the  want  of  a  gun  to  bring 
him  down. 

In  the  evening,  the  sky  was  clear  and  serene,  and  the 
moon  shone  with  uncommon  brightness;  our  shi:».  with 
all  her  canva'^s  filled  l)y  a  stiJf  brt'cze,  niovi  d  gracefully 
and  majesiically  through  the  water :  the  sea,  Jor  many 


h  Ni.I. AM),    HOI  I    •,  \.)    Wil 


\,;!.i>  .iriiuiul.  \\a>  all  in  a  i.Miii  ii,.;-)  il,,-  i.iM'KJitv  ol  li»i 
hiMiiun.  \sliir!i  was  ^o  rcjiilar.  iiial  I  ua^  a!i!f  In  ualk  thr 
iliik  with  a  rum  ^tcp.ainl  to  (  iijo\  liic  c.mu  t'i>atiini  ol  an 

illlfll   ijrllt    IrlliiW    pa-xil'.iT. 

.l/)ri/[).  —  In  tlic  (•%  I'liiiij.  I  (i!)sri-\r(!  I'lM  lla-  iir,>t  time. 
tlif  inti'ft'.stiiiL'  ptit'iioint'iitiii  dl'  till'  lull  ir  Unw .  ujiicli  wa^ 
iii>tiii(tly  viviliK-  in  abnul  ('0'  ul'  tiic  iipjicr  jiart  el"  lli« 
viivl.-. 

V/'/vV  l(t. —  Ilv.  n  iliirir.Lr  tin-  <lu)it  |icruMl  that  1  liavi- 
liriii  .11  >f.i.  thrrr  ha-.  t).Tii  ahuiidaiil  ex  iilf.irc  thai  Miiliicii 
r'M'iM-.  art'  ilif  ctMiniinii  ((lur-c  ni  ihlii'js  iqion  this  stunm' 
I'liiiiriii.  \\  !•  had  no  loii'j;<'r  the  line  ncmutI  siiii  and  mild 
l)rr(/.r>  of  \<stcida\,  liiit  a  i^alf  iVoiii  thi'  south-east,  with 
a  hrav\  SCI.  iKui'i  <  jouds.  dashes  ol"  rain,  and  \  ioh  nl 
s(|M;dls.  At  l\v  iliijht.  liic  hfavciis  and  tlif  oct  an  inrscnlcd 
a  Ml  11''  ol  '^icat  _'iandfnr.  Tin;  ua\i'>  I'.iM  wry  liL'li, 
and  till'  ^liij)  ilaiiii'd  o\ci  tlirii  tops  like  a  Ifatiicf.  'I  lu' 
sk\  Im'imiii'  ^lul  !i  iil\  hl.ick  ;  daikiirss.  almost  like  that  ol 
i;ijiil.  Iiiuil:  o\cr  the  iifc|)  :  —  it  \va^.  il'  1  ma\  so  sa\ .  a 
d,irkiu-^s  --hi-d  liom  the  <  huids,  atli-nd<'d  with  a  poi  Iriitou- 
llloom.  milikf  the  sirtiill\  which  ni'_'hl  [iixnliicrs  ;  —  tin" 
w'liii-  tojw  III  the  w  a\  1^.  a^  ilir\  ilavhiil  ,i'_:aiii>t  ta(  h  otlii'T. 
and  crowiii'd  llu-  \a-t  liln.k  IiiIJown  wiili  a  sccininu'  liiijf 
ot  siiou,  |)rtsi-iitrd  a  Wiikiii'j  coiitia^t  to  the  ^ahh'  hiif  ol 
till'  M-a  and  ^ks  :  and  the  dcxtrrilN  ol'  tlir  sailors,  uho.  m 
the  miiNl  <il  thi^  ii|iroai  .  (rmihi  d  th<'  ^lirou.U,  and  \m  iil 
out  to  the  V(  r\  t'lids  ol  the  \ariU  to  lasji  tiir  >ailv.  was 
Ul  II  aiiaiili'.!  to  txcitc  rnv  a-toni-hiiniit .  I  ii  id  no  It-ar^, 
tmi  iii|ii\id  ill  a  hi''h  di-'jin'  tlir  nia|tstv  ol'  a  situp,  lor 
u\\  im|i;i--;onv  ol  wlinli  I  h;id  hilhtrfo  Iim"i  indtlitid  to 
paintti'.  and  poi  !■*. 


ICi  A    JOURNAL    OF    TRAAELS    !> 

Karly  in  the  evening,  the  winJ  declined:  the  ciouci- 
begcin  to  disperse,  and  the  beaiitital  constellation  Orion. 
uas  the  lirst  that  appeare  1  to  cheer  our  spirits,  after  so 
.:tisinal  a  day. 

fn  the  evening  a  sudden  jerk  ol  one  of  the  sails  knock- 
ed ray  hat  overboard.  I  saw  it,  at  a  considerable  distance. 
Heating  wilh  the  crown  downwards,  and  felt  a  little  soiici- 
tuni.:,  lest  as  my  name  was  in  it,  it  miglit  be  picked  up  by 
.-jonie  returning  American  sliip,  and  my  friends  should  be 
unnecessarily  alarmed  for  my  safety.  I  had  no  cap  to 
substitute  for  my  hat,  but,  fortunately  Captain  T.  of  the 
British  anr.}',  a  feilow-jjassenger,  relieved  my  embarrass- 
ment by  lending  me  an  old  artillery  hat,  wlsich  liad  seen 
much  hard  service  in  the  Last  Indies  ;  but,  v.ith  the  ad- 
dition of  a  striiij,  to  keep  it  on  in  windy  weather,  it  an- 
swered the  main  purpose  of  (jiotection  very  well. 

April  1  ] ,  3  (/ clock,  f.  M. — \\ \-  have  no  longer  the 
strong  wind  th-it  so  lately  drove  us  rapidly  towards  a  lee 
shore,  but,  in  its  phicc  a  light  breeze  from  the  same  point, 
wtiich  has  been  too  feeble  either  to  give  us  nuich  head- 
wav,  or  to  prevent  the  uncomfortable  motion  produceti  by 
H  dot  p,  hollow  rollinij  >ea,  raised  by  the  wind  which  sub- 
sided last  ni'jht.  Xi  noon  to  day,  our  latitude  was  43*-'  42', 
and  we  sujipose  ourselves  at  lc\'ist  .-even  iumdrcd  miles 
/nmi  New- York.  .Fin(ung  that  we  were  very  near  Sable 
Island,  we  tacked  this  eveninir;  and  stood  for  a  short  time, 
towards  America,  but,  the  wind  becoming  more  f.ivour- 
able,  we  soon  resumed  our  old  course. 

April  \1,  3  o'cl'ick,  P.  M. — La^t  niijht  tlic  ship  rolled 
very  much,  and.  as  there  has  been  tinis  far  to-day.  almost 
a  perfect  calm,  tlie  same  distressinLT  motion  has  conlinued. 
A  little  wind  is  now  springing  u]),  witli  the  appearajice  o' 


KNi;L\Nr»,    HOLLAND    AND    ?(Orf  AND. 


17 


an  apprniicliint:  storm.  Tlirre  <:r;mi;)ii>'s  ;iro  spoiitiii(* 
ariMiiid  tin-  sliij),  and  iVotjUcntly  raisiiie  tlifir  (ins  and  h.'i<k*; 
uiU  ot   the  water. 

^tpril  K'>. — \\  itn  line  weatlirr.  and  a  lair  wind  we  nvide 
tolrr.iblf  proijros,  and  tlif  next  day,  \\  itii  cirrnni^tar.r' - 
still  niorr  a'jriM'aMf.  wt>  sailed  verv  rapidU'. 

Apnl  11,  !>  o'dork.  P.  .U.— Jn-t  hefore  .Ink,  this  cxe- 
ninj.  we  liad  the  pleasure  to  descry  a  li^hin'.:  vcsvrl  \\\\\\s. 
at  aiieli(>r.  on  the  celehrated  hanks  ol  Newl'onndland. 
'I'his  eiiahles  n>  t')  deride  that  ue  have  sail'.  .1  twelve  hun- 
dred miles,  and  lia\e  aeconipli'^hed  one  thii'd  ot"  our  p.a>- 
sa.:e  in  ten  (lavs.  We  promise  ourselves  ^oiue  plea--ii!e 
to-niorro\\ ,  in  li-^hinij  tor  rod,  as  \s<'  ^hili  piobahK'  I'each 
the  he<t  tivhinu    ijidimd  hy  morniu'j. 

Ajiril  1 .'(. —  \i-corilin'jU  ,  alter  hreakta^t,  the  u  ind  h(  iu'- 
\er\  li'jiit.  and  the  ucather  iiue.  the  (  .iptai;;  <iideretl  ti;" 
\{'>.sel  to  he  to.  and  ue  piepared  uith  niuch  (ajenie^s  tu 
(ivh.  \  iiiul  was  killed,  whieh  sirvrd  tn!'  hail,  and  in  r. 
t'eu  minute-.,  the  ( 'aptain  honked  a  lish  v.  hirh  tlirte  m 
lour  men  were  hanlU  a'ale  to  hrin^  to  tin  suiiare  oi'  ili' 
\Aatii':  it  juovcd  to  he  a  lialihut.  ol  so  1  u  -e  a  s|/,c.  th;  V 
the  Hue  was  insunieie,it  to  raise  it  :  ,e,'roi-..in'_'!\  liie  u.^i. 
poon  was  use. I,  and  we  were  h.ii-iiu'j  our  pii/..-  in.  wi'.h 
(  vullalion.  uh'U  it  (hupped  oft",  midwaN  luaween  the  L'tui- 
".\  .lie  ai'.d   die   \S   it'  r. 

\    tew    n;iiaites    a!ti  r,    the    snihirs   mi     i!ie     |oie-oa-ll". 

liri.ajiii    iiji   iwi)   tine   (a-dlish.   one  oi    whi.h  I'll  ireni  l!:- 

V'l  '!s  lilt. 1  the  -e:i.   iin.l  ,lii'    I'liier    was    <  !!il\    |,i:d   en    !!;»■ 

^  ■  I'k.       \tier  ti-hniL  -,,ii'.(  tune  lonjer  uilh*  ut  suceevs.  wi 

>  Muue.l  i.iir  eoursf  -  s.(d<d  <  ii'lit  or   ten  nrles.  ;iMii    'Ju-' 

u  !■'.  and  ;;shi  d  ayaiii.  Iiui  witlmnt  takiiiL''  ae,v   thin;'. 


18  A    JOURNAL    OF    TRAVELS    IN 

in  lh<j  nu'iin  time,  we  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  one  01 
the  greatest  wonders  ui'the  gieat  ileep.  Two  whales  j^hiyed 
abont  the  sliip  for  some  time,  fre((nently  spouting  and 
raising  tlieir  -'broad  bare  baeks"'  out  of  the  water. 

The  banks  of  Xewfoundland  are  one  extensive  shoal,  1 
believe  the  most  extensive  of  any  hitherto  discovered. 
'J'hey  lie  in  the  main,  east  and  south  east  of  the  island, 
and  a.-e  from  one  hunch'ed  and  filly  to  two  hundred  miles 
bro;id,  and  livin  three  to  four  huiidred  miles  long. 

5  o'clock,  P.  M. — We  are  still  upon  them,  but  there 
is  nothing  to  distinguish  the  prospect  from  any  other  j)arl 
of  the  ocean,  except  the  numerous  sea  fowl,  and  a  degree 
of  tnrbidness  in  the  water.  The  lead  however  decides  the 
piiint.  The  soundings  are  generally  from  thirty  five  to 
sixty  fathoms.  Our  lead  being  greased,  brought  up  sand 
and  small  shells.  No  land  is  visible  ;  the  nearest  is  the 
Island  of  .\ewfoundland,  which  is  probably  several  hun- 
dred miles  from  us. 

After  our  last  attempt  at  fishing,  we  stood  on  our  course, 
.and,  in  a  few  minutes,  discovered  what  we  imagined  to  ha 
two  vessels  :  the  mate,  iroin'i  up  to  the  round  top,  saw 
four  more,  and  p-e^ently  after,  we  descried  a  whnk'  licet. 
V>'«'  concliifi((l  t!i;it  ihey  r/ii;--t  l)e  fishing  vessels,  and  steer- 
ed fir  them  ;  having  alr(\'idy  formed  a  i)lan  to  lioard  tlieni 
willi  our  'ooat.  fjr  purpH'C  iif  pmchasin'^  fi>h.  since  \\v  Imd 
failed  in  taking  any.  '1  here  was  sonieihini.%  however,  ex- 
tremely. si,ivu!ar.  in  t'le  appearance  of  diese  vesvc],;.  'I'hey 
>vere  appa.rep.tly  without  inasfs  or  sails  ; — their  hulls  were 
of  a  briliiaiit  wiiitc.  ;,'.i<i,  as  tlie  sea  c.ai-e-i  t'icm  to  roil, 
they  uave  a  <  rpiuus  r^  ■l.'ctiun.  »:-t»>>iH  \''rv  ivripht  s'm'.  ;i,'vi 
se'in.'d  a!!  du/./.'ir,'.'. 


1   N(.[    \M>,    IIO[.l,  \M)     \M)    NlOn.  \Mi 


j'''  lilli">  (Ml  llir  >ul>|ri-t.  uiliiDiit  dllO'  Ml>|M  rt'iMj  the  Iral 
I'.Ht.  u  Ih  !l  t!ic  lii:iti'  tIDlii'j  ;(!.i!t  \^  ith  ;i  |i|  o^iird  -l,|v>.  viu.u 
p'll  i'>  llijhl  .ill  diir  -iiniiiNrs.  \,y  ,'r\!iii:  mit,  Isfdud-;  of 
hi  '  '  I  Ii'li  .(  mi\i'  I  cmiHidii.  Ill  plia^uif  ;iiiil  .i|i[iri  licii- 
^ii'ii.  iMvii  till'  .xiM'c  I.-  I  cDHt.  iii|ilati(iii  (i|  iil)|('(|^  M)  sjili'il- 
(!''l  .111  I  ina'jiiiru(  III.   and  >til!.  >o  (laii_;cnMi>  tu  our  ^ali  i\ . 

\   <l  S     sniMI.    tin-    |,1,  ,_;|rv>    of    tin'    A\'\\)    Itlulljlll    ulllcf    i.^Iailiii 

I  UN)  \  :<  u  .  ,.!:  !  n  ml'  iril  iIkim'  ninif  ill  -I  met  u  lii(  li  uc  had 
lii-i  (li^i  ,i\i  r,  li.  I'iic  siili|fci  urnijiicl  all  liir  r\(>..  and 
iirjiu^-i'd  all  l!i>'  tlnnr.'lils  an  I  emu  tT'-atidii  ^>\  luir  lillli' 
iiniih.  I  !i''  w '  atliri ,  Iroiii  In  i!i'_r  mild  in  ilir  murniiiL:, 
ail'iiMidi    ■  hll    1  !'  ar.    Ii  .       li.ciMiM    III    1  h  culdt  |-.    iiicoiist'- 

liHillcc.  I  hi  diMllil.  <il  liir  \  i.  illil\  nl  ■~im1|  II1,|v-~.  s  (if  ill'. 
'I  iiat  \\  liii  11  <.<  f  had  iil->iii\  fi  t  il,  \\  a^.  lia  ji)id  \  .  ii'  it  uI  ijic 
lii'i-l  l!allLtllM:^  l.'ilii:  it  \i.a>  .'dl' I'ji  I  !irr.  i'l  Ci  ai-piiii.  ii|s 
Ihi-'"-  i;~i;i:  III  •-'•lili'  ii  I.iiiri'^.  uiic  liiuidiiil  Ifit  lun  (li 
I  la-  w  \\<  \  :    tiial  \s  Im  '■  i^  i    '  ist  ■!  iiij-,  i .  u-.    i-  t!;r  li,  Id  irr, 

\slli(   II    11'  -    'III    tl,r  -illai'i-.   ullr       til    a    L^lilI    'Xtilll.   aild.    111. I 

Iji  iir:  \  i>ilili' ,11  aii\  1  .i,i>i.ii  ■  |i'  taiH  I  .  ^ii:|.^  a!'  MiiKii;- 
.ji  |-  111   I  uiiliii:'^  n|Mai   it.  ii::- ■' i-'M  \  i  d. 

1  1  (N  inj  xiill  sr\t  lal  ImiMv  "\  iia_\  lidit.  \vi'  llatlt  mi  ont- 
s.  |\  1  V  liMt  w  !•  ^1 Id  '.  t  I  <  '.  .T  I'!  >!|i  u  a  d..nu'  I'-'.i''  l'.<  r^li- 
li,  .iiil;. ..  d  I  r  i.  ai '  lii"  iit.  1"  .1  i  in'  liiipi'  -  .  >  d  ,i>  \  am  a-; 
iliai  i>i  |i  i^-i:i.'  till'  liiiii/iiii  it~i';,  ;  .r  ii'\^  m  i-^i  ^  w  I  i\ 
r.iiitii.  lall ',  (■•'!■  ;  1'.!  iiil  1  \\>\\  .    M.ii  ■.■.(■  1  .111!.  I  |M  i  (■    .\  (■  rill  111 

,1,.;    .       Ill,   •   lii.r  ^1.  Ili'i'    -,11    !^.  ill    til'    V  1   1  \   S  '   .-i'  111  ill.     a     ..\  1   ,1^, 
|i  .:     ,,     ;'   .     1    ,  .■    '■.  ';:.  1  •■   lili     -'.\     .lid    '.*    •'.>  V   ■»•  I  iili    I    t.i   iiniti', 

■     '    ;  '      •  ■  .     i  ,  1     '      ,       i    I  i!    ,    I'l  1  :      '    (    ',     1!  ,    ,l>    \\         1:    ll  I    111  ij  K    1  ;,     \S  1      ;  I  HI  lid 

..'II   1  l\i  >.   '..'i  -;d-  I  \iii:iij,   -    rii'iiiidial  !'\   i;'n"r,'>  "ji-  '."."■ 


20  A   JOURNAL    OF   TRAVELS    I.\ 

Their  appearance  was,  to  me,  extremely  interesting  and 
gratifying,  and  I  wish  it  were  in  my  power  to  convey  to 
you  an  adequate  idea  of  these  formidable  productions  of 
polar  frost. 

They  were  all  of  a  very  pure  and  splendid  white,  with 
a  peculiar  brilliancy,  arising  from  the  situation  of  the  sun, 
which  was  declining;  wJiile  the  ke-islauds  constantly  came 
into  view  from  the  east  and  north,  and  thus  threw  back  a 
flood  of  light  upon  us,  which  rendered  thcMTi  more  conspi- 
cuous as  they  came  nearer,  and  afforded  the  pleasure  of 
continued  discovery.  Few  of  them  were  larger  than  a 
house  or  a  church,  but  there  were  two  which  might  well  be 
dignified  with  the  name  of  floating  mountains.  They  all 
rolled  much  with  the  waves,  with  a  ponderous  motion,  that 
alternately  immersed  an  additional  portion  of  the  mass, 
and  tlien,  by  tlie  returniiia-  movement,  brougiit  a  great 
bulk  into  view,  which  had  been  invisible  before,  while 
streams  of  water,  taken  up  by  the  inequalities  of  surface, 
ran  down  their  sides  like  cataracts.  It  is  not  easy  to  give 
a  correct  estimation  of  the  magnitude  of  the  largest  islands. 
Their  aj)pearance  was  very  magnificent.  They  covered 
many  acres  on  the  water,  and  towered  above  our  top-gal- 
lant masts.  So  peculiar  was  their  ap])earance,  thai  it  i< 
not  easy  to  compare  them  to  any  thing  but  themselves  : 
\et,  they  rcsc^nbled  most,  some  ancient  venerable  ruin, 
while  the  beauty  and  s|)ieii(Ioar  of  the  matcricds  mad'- them 
k)ok  like  a  recent,  highly  polished  work  of  art,  which  some 
convulsion  had  thrown  into  vast  (iisv»rder.  Conceive  o5 
some  very  (>xtensive  and  lol'ty  palace,  of  white  marble, 
Tviiose  walls  have  Ixen  liere  and  there,  broken  down,  al- 
most to  tlie  ifrounil,  but  still  rise  in  numerous  and  !cuy 
Jurret?,  find  whose  sides  appear,  every  where,  furrov^ed  I'V 


FN^.I Wn,    ».iI.:VVD     \SU     v.  n'liwu. 


i't 


i.  it'iiiiM  --ts  i>r  ,i'_'''^  : — i'uiicii\  r  hiiilit-r.  d  iliiv  'M>  ;(t  pil<.' 
•  ii    I'liii  .tN  i'iii<'r;_'inLr  Inuii   tin-  ncfaii.    win  if   iIk-   Im-.imiis 

Ml''  ''Ti'iiiiat-'  tin-  \  ir\^  nil  r\i'r\  vi'lc  anil  tlial  the  w  a\  rs 
,;ii-  ila>liiiv.'  iiMitiiiiialU  ajiin^t  it.  a:iil  >iii  imiiiiliiiL'  its 
l)a».  Willi  !'),iiii.  ami  it>  •^ilil•^  wild  vpiM^  ;  jmil  \,ii|  \\il| 
tii'Mi  lia\f  suiiic  ill. -a  nl'  the  iihuct  uliii  li  I  am  aiiiiinL:  to 
»!«■-'  1 :  If. 

Smi-s' fti/ii; . —  1  lia\<'  llii>  nMniriil  In  ni  on  i !i  rk.  ain.l 
LJii'i  lliHt  w«'  aif  iniiiifliali  |\  aliiia-t  id  ai,.iilifi'  ii->'-iiiM!iii- 
tiii'.    \'-liil<'    ni'w   (iiits   ar<'    iin  iiiu  iith    c-..i _>    ini,.  \iiw    in 

ill.'    .-l-'.Ill    '■'!.:'■    "I     tlir   JKui/oil.        'I'lln^r    W  ITk  il    Wi'lia\C 

[ia^~i''l  iiovs'  pi'fM'nt  tlirir  siiailfil  -iili^.  an'l  liasr  In-l  llirir 
-plriiiidT- :  whil'-tln-  niM>r  ii'innii'.  in  tli<'  ^aim'  dni  i  lioii. 
a[.|i«:ir  Ilk-'  (lark  cinii.N.  with  llifir  inp^  -iMcil  hy  tin-  ia^t 
ia\^  111'  ilii'  Mill.  '1  111'  air  i-  \t'i\  kmi  Ii'r  llic  ^laMHi. 
NiL'lil  i-  nnw  t'liwiii.j  la^t  njmn  n^.  ami  \\i'  nni^t  |ia-^  it 
,,.M'ai.'  till  vf  ll'aliii'i  nla>^l■^  :  it  will  Cfrtainls  lie  ,iii  aii\- 
i"ii-  nljlii.  aii'l  liiM\  111  "jraiil  it  ina\  lie  a  -air  onr.  \\  !■ 
!m\i'  I'lif  aii\  aiiia'jr  nl  -i  iriif  wratlitr,  with  a  lair  llh'ii'_li 
"-iimII  bill  /,!■.  ami  \\  >■  shall  lia\  '■  tin'  im'oii  lnl'iiir  iiiiilni'j  lit . 
]  '  'I'l  l'<(  I.  Ill  niulit. — 'Iwii  im  11  air  siatiuiird  in  tin. 
I'.uv  Im  |n"k  mil  iwi  till'  iri- : — mil'  in.iss  ha-  <jia/.i  il  I'Ui 
-iili-.  Iinl  wilhoiil  iliiiir.'  aii\  liaiiii.  aipl  a-  ;lii'  nin.'ii  li,i^ 
1  '-.  a.  I II' I  ihr  w  I  alia  r  ci 'iitiiiiu  -  lim-,  I  shall  H'Iih-  In  \\-\. 
1  hav  iM't.  h'lWiMi.  ini  jiiliiii  the  inl<  i"t-liii_'  lii-l"i  \  I'i 
ihi  I  .a  i\  I  Iiihill  la  il!-!l  l'a<  kit.  W  liirli  |  n  ri-'ll'il  laM  \  i  a; 
la  till  M    -la-.    1p\    tip'    -  ma-  arcnli  nt  I"  whi'  h  W"  an'  mi'\ 


\!I'T  ua;'  ai  rl .  ;ii  iii  I'.ii  -I  ii"l  'A  >    !.ii  a'lM    .tcj  ,  ai.'i  a  w  i'',    '    , 
in-;.'  t|,'  .ii    il   I.''.    "I     II-     Via.  I  II  -111   -iiil'  .lill'l!'  :■,    (,i|,:     \  ..w 

■a  .1  ■  I'.a  1  •  1  .■    u  all   :i     I.  a  iiMin'  I  I  "1    i  ■  ";  ''  .   "i.'\  .i  a-'.'. 

•  iMir  ■  .a  :i.  .'!    ill  ill'  ''.inl  -i, t,.\,-,,  ■•:'.,    \.,-'  ■ 

,  !  v\  (.  ill  '!'  v\  a  \'.  ir  ii;  ii  U- A   lahia''        ,■•,       ■      'I'hk 


.12  A    JOURNAL    OF    TRAVELS    IN 

April  \&. — Happily  we  received  no  injury,  being  I'a- 
vonred  with  every  circumstance  which  might  give  us  a  safe 
passage.  Had  these  circumstances,  however,  been  rever- 
sed;— had  the  night  been  dark — ihe  sea  high,  and  the 
weather  tempestuous,  we  could  scarcely  have  escaped; 
for,  wliat  obstacle  would  the  sides  of  a  ship  oppose  to  the 
mighty  momentum  of  such  masses,  impelled  by  the  winds 
and  waves  of  a  tempest !  Between  two,  she  would  l)e 
crushed,  and  even  the  collision  with  one,  if  the  ship  were 
mider  full  way,  would  cause  the  same  resistance  as  a  rock, 
and  the  ragged  edges  of  the  ice  would  pierce  her  instantly. 

In  order  to  a  correct  conception  of  the  vast  moving 
power  of  these  bodies,  it  must  not  be  forgotten  that  only  a 
very  small  portion  of  their  bulk  appears  above  the  water. 
It  is  well  known  that  this  is  the  case  with  cakes  of  ice 
floating  in  a  river,  and.  where  it  is  perfectly  solid  and  well 
formed,  only  one  eighth  or  one  ninth  part  of  its  bulk  rises 
above  the  surface.  These  masses  are,  however,  far  from 
having  this  density  ;  thty  seem  to  be  principally  an  accu- 
mulation of  snow,  hardened  ()y  degrees  upon  a  bed  of  ice, 
and  increased  by  the  dashing  of  the  water,  which  constant- 
ly freezes  upon  them  in  successive  layers.  'I  lie  sailors  -ay 
that  one  third  of  the  bulk  of  these  islanls  apr.ears  above 
water.  This  estimation  is  undouI>t('dl\  'luic'i  too  lii"h,  Init, 
were  even  this  considered  as  conxct,  it  will  be  evident  that 
such  islands  as  the  largest  we  saw,  inus;  be  bodies  of  pro- 
digious magnitude.  I'ut.  every  allowance  lieing  made, 
there  is  reason  to  believe  that  not  more  than  one  fifth  or 
sixth  part  ot  the  ice-islands  is  visible;  of  course  an  ice 
mountain  of  oih»  hundred  f(>f't  high,  would  really  have  a 
perpendi<Hilar  altitude  of  five  or  six  Inuidred  feet. 

Wliih'    rontemitlatinc    these    magnificent   bodies,    Dr. 
Darwin's  whimsical   project  of  employing  the  navie«  o' 


hM.LA.VU,  HOLLAMJ  ANO   JvcuTLAND.  'il> 

liurope  to  iiavij»ute  tlu'in  to  the  tro|)iial  rcL'ioiis  for  the 
siikf  otCooliiiij  tlioM' climates,  striick  me  with  pociihar  iii- 
t»ir>t  ;  wliat  projtTt  or  liypotliesis  lias  Ikmmi  too  ritiiciduiis 
to  hf  proposed  and  (ifltMiilt'd  b_v  philosophy  or  to  Lm-  tni- 
btlli>htil  tn  poftryaud  tiction  !* 

■  •■  TlitTi'  Nvvrii^  '  iili^lil,  arrny  your  (ia?:zlini,'  powers 

With  -iidiifii  iiHircli,  iilnriii  the  tor|iiil  lioiir~  ; 

On  ii-o-hiiilt  i-lt\s  pxpaiiil  i»  llioii>iiri(1  ^iilN, 

Hinji'  tlif  -troii^  lifliiis,  and  calcli  lh>-  \\iy/.c\\  iiules  ; 

'i\\e  \\  in^cd  ro(  k^  lo  ifNi-ri  li  i  liiiMli-^  unide, 

W  111  ri-  laiiilinL:  /.i  [>li\  r~  pan!   n|'oii  llii-  tuli-  ; 

f'.i^-.  \vlii'i-f  'o  (  'l  [  I  \  ( ■  \  in    ■■  Uinndi-r  roar-;, 

Ai.d  a'i-u.|-,ii,'.-<-hor-  -hakr  till'  kind;(  d  -linr.-s  ; 

I'a--.  wlic:-!'  with  I'alniy  |'linni'>  ( '  vn  \i; »  ••inik''^, 

Ai'd  in  !ii';-  -ilsf-r  Lirdlc  !ilnd~  lln-  i-l'^  ; 

Uii\\:ud,    wlii'iL'  Nk.i  r.'--  d.i-ky   Naiad  1  nr'; 

A  :',  Ml  .,it;d  I,  iii_-doin  •  \s  i'ii  la'i'riiii    w  i\  i  -, 

Or  !•■  id-  oiT  .;.ildi  II  -and-  her  llinciold  train 

In  -'•   iin  ',■  rhaiinrl-  In  iln-  i(r\  id  main. 

V\  !:;'■    -■•.  .1;  iliy  iialiun-  c  i-n\\  d  t'lr  ^iil'ry  (  nn-f, 

OiMi.k  :"  V  :,.  -'i  la.-fZ.',  and  iiad  ll.c  lloaliru  IroM, 

>  1  •uif-  '  \  I  d  d  i:l  rti«l,  till'  ini-'iniL-  Ina-nic  -tccr. 

An  I  (  Old  u  ilii  a:  I  tic     now  mIii    tr"|iii-  \aMi-    ' 

l/.'^',-//.-  (./,-/.,;-  I'art  I.  p,  .Vf.    Ito.   i7;.i 

'r!,'   .  Iiov,  r\  I  r   i-  ;     "M-v,  and  w  (■  mi    lit  lia\  !■  -n|'|io-i-d  Or.  I  >ar 

will  i:.,f    1.1  I;  o.r  '..•I'll  ia:.ily  in  cariK'-l.  had  li<    n'>l    id'!'-d  th,.  l',i!- 

.'.  1::.;  [■■■niar!,-  in   -ohiT  jtom'      ••  li  tli"'  natiuM-  \s  iio    inlialnl  liii~ 

1,   j'hti-.-  oT  thi'  ^io'.t-.  in  trad  Ml'  ih-  tro\  in/  tipir  -i-atni  n.    oid 

Ma-;  itu  I'.ini-  ^^  '■  di  i;  in  an  iii-rc --,;  |-',   war-.  1    lald  !■>■  in  .  iiircd  'o 

:  ui>-  till  ir  'a.!  o'lr-  ;o  va\  \_  •:<■  Ih-  -c    inii -••    ina-  r-  ■■!  irr   into 

tiiftii'irr  '  ';;:a  ;  n  III  (  an- .  t'A  o  /riatai!\iira  r-  w  ai!dri--nll  to 
iji  oikiiai,  t"i'  tiMpir  (  I.  ihirn  v.i.a'.i  !i,'  laar'a  1  u  .!rd  'i\  tin  I;  -o- 
lala'n,  a  nd  .nr  u  n.t.'i-  in  ihi-  I  r  i' 'ah'  \\.  ■  .aid  't  '■.■ndiard  nincii 
HI  I  Ml' r.  t'  a-  ,.i  rha]-.  a  (  '  11'  ni  \  "V  two.  ti;l  ■]•.>■  ma-  -••-  01  n  i-  i.i  riao' 
•^  :aln  .•;•  .•:.'■■;■     '  :   N'   '■    'v   /;.'    aa-  '.-'/a.'. 


24  A  JOURNAL    OK  THAVELS  IN 

April  17. — No  islands  of  ice  were  to  be  seen  to-day, 
and  it  was  probably  owing  principally  to  thin  fact,  that 
the  temperature  of  the  air  had  beconie  sensibly  milder- — 
The  last  night  was  very  tempestuous  ; — the  wind,  espe- 
cially towards  morning,  blew  hard,  and  raised  a  very 
heavy  sea;  the  sky  was  covered  with  ragged,  angry 
clouds,  which  gave  us  fretjuent  squalls,  with  rain,  hail  and 
snow,  and  the  ship  rolled  so  violently,  that  I  slept  very 
little  ;  but,  to  compensate  for  all  this,  the  wind  was  per- 
fectly fair,  and  sent  us  forward  eight  and  ten  miles  an  hour. 
We  have  had  the  same  weather,  and  have  made  the  same 
progress  throutrh  tlie  day ;  but  the  motions  of  the  ship 
have  been  so  violent,  that  it  has  beci  impossible  to  sit  at 
the  table.  We  have  been  com[)elled  to  place  our  food  on 
;he  floor,  and  to  sit  down  around   it,  with  all   tlie  simpli- 

.Xolc  lo  the  3f/  edition,  JhIi/,  1S18. — Diirina;  a  period  of  several 
years,  since  tlie  preceding  note  was  written,  tliis  subject,  (1  mean 
that  of  the  ice  islands)  has  assumed  a  new  and  unexiiected  degree 
of  interest.  Masses  of  ice,  unexampled  both  for  size  and  number, 
liave  continued  to  float  from  the  Northern  Polar  seas  into  the  At- 
lantic ocean,  aticl  if  we  may  trust  the  accounts  of  iKuigators,  tiiey 
tiave  bf^en  seen  even  w.thin  a  few  degrei^s  of  tlie  tropic.  Tims 
Dr.  Darwin's  project  seems  on  tiie  |)oiMt  of  being  realized — only 
(lie  ice  comes  irilhou!  conroj/,  and  .ij)onlane(tu.'sly,  brings  its  stores 
of  cold,  lo  refiesh  the  glowing  regions  of  the  south. 

It  seems  generally  agreed  that  tlie  vast  bari'iei-  of  ice  which,  fur 
several  centuries,  had  been  accumulating  upon  the  coa.^t  of  J'".ast 
rireeulanil,  extending  many  tniles  into  the  ocean,  and  elfeetually 
preventing  the  access  of  ships  to  (he  co;!st,  is  now  broken. —  for 
-evend  cenlui'ies,  no  communication  had  taken  p/lace  w  ilh  that 
roe.".tr\  ,  b'.i;  tlie  shore  is  now  again  ;u'ce'--il)le  ;  tin-  ice  had  proi)a- 
tjly  extendi';)  int'i  tlie  ocean  till  the  lluctiiation  of  the  wafei'.  act- 
i;ig  like  a  lever,  bf,)ki>  it  in  con^i-iiuence  ot  its  ou  n  e,\teii.--ion  ; 
he  rni:;.-(/l  '\;i<  nii'^ii'v'  bai-i'ier  have  in  a  great  niea.-in-e  alloi'ded 
•■fie  if-e-lr  -V  ;uid  feld.  ofir,.  wliW;)!.  iK-rtieid-u'lv  .5;,;;,,-  the  hi'^f 


V  \-   1    \  M).   Ilui  1    \M)     '■.  M)    -'11    'Ml. 

.  .i'. .  i^ilh.nrjii  no!  uli'ii  tin'  'ii.i'  I  as'l  ><  ;  i;iil_\ .  I'l"  |' 

\..,iuoiilil    iia\i'   lu'i'ii    urn  ;i    ;^ll'l^t.!    i-(i!,M   _\ , 
w  iiiii--.M-il    (m:;-    i-]fU-^<]..i!    ;iji|..;i!;ir,i  <•  •  —  mi"    ii.'r  ' 
hfcii  sirii  liiMi  in.'    a  I'.il   .iL-i  i-^l    i'    ]>ii..i'l.    ar  i    . 
aj.iiii-l  alriiiiL: — a^    ..,•..!    ■ii'l  a  l\:\f\.  vi\  '<;i;!i' 
nati    ill  I'l-ir  ;  i^-'li'"!.  :;i  I'd  r  "li  .'Iiht.  Iiy  i  xi'  a 
liiii'i-.    an  I    I'l  n'..:.   !""1    !''    i"<tl.    in    fji!M.-i:i'    <1... 
\*!,;|c    111.'  u  i!!-    "1   !''•■   i-aliia  ^ii|i:'oi ;-  .1    ilnai    !     !,; 
ilia->   -'.Mat'il    w  'ill    nia-  i.!.:;i  ■^  I.,  :  ,, .  ,  ;i  (.;:i    kwi  <  -. 
'■■u!i);i  n    tar  ar'i';"-:-.  'ia-;ai  ->    d'   cuiiiL'.        \i    <Mi 
,a'lai-   ^Iii|i,   llirif    ".'.;■-   a    i^ill  1  i.!    i  ■ara  .1    ixarc'iM- 
P'aliinn'  il.       !a  ■;  '■  -^  li;-  nv.  u  iilai.-.  ;   ^    1:  ^a.'   i,a  i    t 
\  al''  -.,uic  \  I  ^..  1    I  1    [n'A.  i;i    i:  -    1       '      ■  ■    :  i  lii:   iwii 

■   '. ■  'WV'-r  '.•  :  ■'      1  '    ■     :''r\         !       !■■ 


I    iia'.r 

■'[•  a 

'  '  '•  •,• 
,;,:  i. 


II,  jl   :!.■  a- 


26'  A  JOURNAL  OF  TUAMILS  f.N 

held  up  a  decanter  of  wine,  another  a  gravy-dish,  aud  a 
third  the  soup-bowl ;  and  it  was  only  in  the  critical  mo- 
ment betvreen  one  roll  and  another,  that  the  knite  and  Ibrk 
could  be  used  with  safety.  Notwithstanding  our  caution, 
it  has  happened  more  than  once  to-day,  that  a  sudden 
a.ntl  violent  motion  of  the  sliip  has  thrown  us  all,  with  the 
loose  furniture,  and  table  utensils,  into  a  promiscuous 
heap,  while  more  solicitude  has  been  manifested  for  the 
preservation  of  the  food  tiian  of  our  limbs.  As  no  seri- 
ous injury  has  been  sustained,  we  have  been  very  merry 
on  the  occasion,  and  have  enjo3"ed  our  tumultuous  repasts 
quite  as  well  as  on  some  occasions  we  should  have  relish- 
ed a  sumi)tuous  entertainment. 

The  face  of  the  ocean  has  exhibitefi  a  scene  of  great 
in'andeur  through  the  whole  day.  The  wind  continuing 
to  blow  very  bard,  the  captain  ordered  the  dead  lights  to 
be  lasl.'cd  in,  and  this,  as  well  as  oihcr  movements  on 
board,  indicate  an  e.\})Cctarion  of  weather  still  more  tem- 
pestuous. 

The  night  came  on  dark  and  stornn".  and  we  tlionght 
ourselves  very  hapjiy  to  have  escaped  the  ice  bel'ore  the 
commencement  of  this  tempestuous  weather.  At  the 
same  time  we  were  not  a  little  solicitous  (or  the  safety  of 
a  ship  which  passed  us  just  at  dark  under  a  great  press  of 
sail  ;  siie  was  going  touju'ds  the  banks,  and  would  proba- 
bly, in  the  midst  of  tlarku<  ss  and  tempest,  be  in  a  few 
hours  entangled  in  tlie  ice  ;  i.s  the  two  sliijis  passed  in  op- 
po>il;e  directions,  within  a  tf-w  yarils  ol'  each  other,  and 
with  a  wind  seiving  botli  veiy  v.'cli,  the  nu)tion  of  cour.se 
appeared  to  i)e  doiibled.  and  both  seemed  lo  fiy.  The 
j)eople  of  bolli  sliips  uttered  a  sudtien  and  siinu!tane(riis 
shriek  of  teiror.  fur  v.e  came  so  uiar  as  lo  excite  a  nie- 


S    .1.  \M>.    Hi'l.l.  \M)     ^■^l)    M  .  .  1  1.  VM). 


.1,.  iit.u\  ,;|)iirflii'ii-i.Mi  i.f  ^irikiii'.'.  ainl  in'\(  r  In  imc  ua-  I 
,..  Mu>il(l'' (it  ihf  I'lKC  ulllir  ^ho'k  ulii<ii  imiM,  in  >\uU 
.1  cast'  If  icci'iv  1,1. 

Thr  iinkiit>s  aihl  llu'  roiiulmcss  uT  iLf  (iccaii  'j;n(^  iiic 
nil  (ij)iiortuniiv  vi  u!)m  r\iiit:  tiio  htaiitilul  pliriioiin  iioii  (tt 
ihi'  iilhi-iihorc-rtuiT  i>l  tiir  M'a.  'I'lic  ualci.  fur  in. in} 
\  aids  aiiauid  llu'  .side^.  ami  iiiiilt'i-  tin-  how  tif  tluvsliiji. 
-|ia:Kl>',l  am!  lla^linl  in  a  \(Ty  cU>tiiirt  ami  i)l»'a>iiii'-  inaii- 
.i<  I'. 

/y/;-/7  I  ^.— 'I'll.'  u  iiiil.  uiii.-li  limiii'r  til''  iii'.lit  Mcir.l 
1'!  till'  .-DUili.  lint  ui'.in'Ut  siili^idim;-  at  all.  in  tli>'  jirdLjii'SS 
•  il  llir  iiKuniir^  i!ii-ri'a^''(i  to  a  •j.:i\v  :  ani.l  lidon'  mioii  tiii.s 
-alf  iiccaiiir  a  \i"Iiiil  tiiiijU'^t,  with  d.i^Iii's  nl'  rain. — 
'I'li'^rc  w.is  ,1  VfiN  l!."i\y  s(  a.  and  the  inolions  ol"tli<'  ship 
\Mii' so  siiddtMi  and  viuifiit.  that  it  was  hazardous  to  at- 
ti'iiipt  iiio\iii'.'  v.itliout  i-iiii-iaiitly  li  'IdiiiL:'  la-i  Itv  s,,|)io 
ti\i'd  o!i|t'tr.  \o  food  conid  hr  pri'paifd  in  tin'  calioust.', 
iiid  siK  h  rclct'^irn'iit  a^  wc  had.  was  rci-civid.  as  Ncstfi"- 
da\ .  on  llif  caltin  llooi-.  and  rvcii  in  this  hnnilih'    po>tnie, 

ni'   \V<  II'     liol     llllll'i  (pirnllv    thrown    I'lHin     uUf    sid''    ol'    t!l(" 

<H''/in  to  thi'  otliiT.  'i  lif  ^torni  inrirascd  in  \io!riico 
tli!'oa'_di  the  d,i  V.  so  that  it  lar  excci  ded  e\  i  r\  thiiiL'  u  hirh 
I  had  hilhi'iio  v.^n  ;  ;jnd  in  tin'  allcrnooii,  Ix'sidr^  th,' 
l^iiurul  \i-lienienci'  ol  the  \\ind,  thnr  wcii  Inqnenl 
sijiKills.  .fiist  hrfoir  e\eniii'j.  uhip-  [\\>-  captain  w.is  a 
slri-p  in  Ills  s'.aii'  room,  tin-  ship  liriie;  laid  i  l.i-c  (o  the 
wind,  uiih  iiolhinu  ^lamliicj  lint  a  ilonhl''  reel'rd  l'ore--.iil. 
and  ill.'  lilli  i  ,11  the  li  ami-  of  .i  coniimei  sailor,  a  >nddi  n 
.ind  \  ml.  nl  Mj'uall  ^Imck  n^.  uhiili  tliiew  tlu'  hilinsiaan 
Iron  I  hi>  -I  a  I  ion,  s.i  ilia  I  the  ship  \s  a>  no  loir^Mi  iindii'  c  oil- 
man.I  ot  lie  inl.l'i':  —  acco|'(llii_.|\  ^hi'  hinhnl.  a-  the 
-ailor-    ^. IV  :  ill, It   i>.   ^\w    li  II    into    the  troir  h    ol    the   s.  a. 


'■38  A  JOURNAL  OF  TRAVELS  XX 

find  the  next  wave,  although  she  was  a  tall  ship  of  moit 
than  400  tons,  threw  lior  dou'n  upon  her  side  with  tre- 
mendous violence,  so  tliat  a  part  of  her  deck  was  undci- 
watcr  5  the  people,  and  every  moveable  thing,  were 
llu'own  to  leeward,  and  for  a  moment,  dissnay  was  paint- 
I'd  in  the  faccs'of  the  most  experienced  men  on  board. 

The  violence  of  the  s'lock  roused  our  sleeping  captain, 
who  uas  upon  deck  in  an  instant ; — forced  the  helm  up, 
with  a  volley  of  oaths,  and  put  the  ship  before  the  wind, 
when  she  righted.  The  danger  was  imminent,  though 
iransient,  for  had  the  ship  remained  in  the  same  position, 
die  next  sea  would,  without  uoubt,  have  laitl  her  flat  up- 
on the  water. 

Night,  at  length  set  in,  dark  and  dismal ; — the  tempest 
raged  with  more  violence  than  ever,  and  the  fury  of  the 
ica  was  wonderful.  To  an  old  sailor  it  might  doubtless 
have  appeared  no  very  uncommon  thing ;  but  to  me,  to 
whom  these  incidents  were  novel,  the  scene  was  awfull}- 
grand ;  and  one  who  has  never  v/itnessed  a  tempest  at 
sea,  has  not  enjoyed  one  of  the  highest  exhibitions  of  sub- 
limity. 

I  have  no  pa-ticu!ar  dread  of  the  water,  and,  except- 
ing this  crisis,  I  liad  not  supposed  our  sitnation  to  be,  at 
any  ihr.c,  inmiinently  dangerous :  yet  I  could  not  but  be 
astonished  that  any  machine,  constructed  of  such  fiail 
materials  as  tiiose  of  a  ship,  could  withstand  such  shocks 
us  those  which  we  received  every  moment  from  the  waves, 
.md  whicii  caused  every  timber  to  treml)le,  while  the 
vreacking  o''  tlie  ship's  joints,  and  the  roaring  of  the  winds 
and  waves,  rendered  it  almost  impossible  to  hear  any 
one  speak.  It  was  not  tin;  consequence  of  weakness  or 
oi'  fear,  but  a  natural,  antl  1  trust  pardonable,  cflect  of  the 


FN'   I  AM),   Ili'l.I. AND    VNli   M  .'  I  I    \\!i. 

^ri'i'.e  htf.iif  m»',  lli:it  iiidiicfil  li'.f  to  ili'vCtMiil  iuto  llit 
In  ifail  ;t  li'ttcr  ot"  diir  inntlici,  rtTriv.d  i;r,i,i'';i.il(  1 
■lip'  I  >ail<'il.  in  which  she  had  iii>riiiii  :iii  ]\\iry, 
[irmliiction  of  Ailiiison,  who  had  dr'uik  iii-pirati 
iDiiiUainN  iiidi''  iiuiih'  than  IK'licoii.  Il  i>  f  iill;li  • 
TraMll*  r'-;  llytnn.  and  mi-hl  wrll  he  ;idi>|i!.d  as  li.f 
|ianio;i  ci  ivt  ry  ad\  iMitiiriT,  whu^ic  mind  dtu--;  \\(<t  r,. 
\\v  i  l<  ;<  ul' [iio'frtioii  iVoiii  on  hi'jli.* 

1 

Flow  iuc  t;  y  .-rivaiiS  !i!.>--(l  O  !...,■ 

I  Im'.v  -lire  i-  their  il(l<-nc''  . — 
I  '.'iin.il  \\  i  'Imii  i-  ;in-ir  imu!''. 
'I'Ik  ';.■  lulj.  OMiui|",'.nii'. 

In  I. M-i-i_-ii  rc:ili:>  aiiii  Kirid-  r(  a.w'c, 
Mi|'|    'iW.'!!  l.\  'liV  can.- 
liiiMii-li  Karniru'  rliiai  -  tli<  y  ]•:    -  lu,:,  ■. 
\ip1  !i!-.  a'.'..'-  ii!i!,iliil-al  air. 

:•! 
\\  laai  li_v  tl'p  .iiviiiiul  trtn[T  •  ''...I'r.c 

Ml.jl    nu    li;-    ;::-..k'    11    Wif.  >•, 

1  i;r  \   k  ri'H\    i  i,.  Ill  ;i!'t  !!<■'   -  '■   \\    ;   '  i.i  , 
N'T  ili,,-.i'.|it   !.i   -,,\i- 
■1 

i  111-  -:>u'ai  i-  l.ii.l.  !  i'L-  w  lai'i-  n  :  i,'!  - 
<  )!,ci!|.  Ill  I.,  \l.\    w  ill  ; 

!  !r    -'-.I  '!i.a   1 1'. a'-  a;  !ii_\  ci  ana,.-.;    : 

\i  !'■.;.  c.aaaMa.I  i-  -till 

•") 
la  mil!  'Ill  il.iii^i-r-.  Ir.ii-v  ran!  ili  ,a.ii, 

r;i%  _■....! v..  i,^,a,,,.' .  . 

U  ill  1  I  ,:   ■    i'l.-.-  i,ii  I!  \   !•..  :•,,,■•-  |..    I 
All.!   lai::.M'.    I  ir'-c  |m|-  a:  .;■!■ 


I  ,,:m1i 
y  !■•- 
■Miii;. 

iM     .It 

Th- 


OiM-  i  I'-,  w  iill>l  l!,'ia  \  -I    .  r\  ■-(  til. a  III. 
I'   .      .    r     .  ■■  -i;  .11   !..    ; 
A.I  !    !     .■    ,  u!  .  a  .!. •:,;!,  J, ,11  '„    ourlnl, 
Sa.ill   |Oai  laa'  -'hi'-  t.i  li.i  r. 


Sti  A  JOrKXAI.  OF  TKAVELS  IN 

About  10  o'clock  at  night  the  wind  abated,  and  gradu- 
aily  died  away  to  a  still  small  bi'eeze ;  but  our  situation 
V. as  more  imcomfoitable  than  ever,  for  the  ship,  being 
now  without  wind  to  steady  her,  rolled  dreadfully  ; — sleep 
was  un:!ltuinable,  and  I  could  only  brace  myself  in  my 
i/irrli,  iiiid  wait  lor  morning.  I  spent  an  hour  in  the  evc- 
iiiiig  in  viewing  the  phosphorescence  of  the  waves.  It 
v.'as  indeed  a  beautiful  sight.  The  ocean  was  covered  all 
over  with  luminous  spots,  occasioned  by  the  foam  of  the 
vva-vcs,  while  around  the  ship,  the  water  glowed  and 
-parklcJ  almost  witli  the  brillianc}"  of  burning  coals. — 
When  v,-e  sliiopcd  a  sea,  tl;e  spray  appeared  like  a  shovv- 
■.'r  of  ilie,  falling  among  th  ;  shrouds,  and  the  deck  scenl- 
'•<]  to  be  covered  Vv'ith  glowing  embers. 

TlnNv  comes  it  that  the  poets,  so  much  celebrated  fou 
.ipprojiriating  every  brilHant  image  of  natural  scenery, 
-hciSi  I  liavc  made  so  ilttle  use  of  this  ?  They  have  not  of~ 
cii  alhided  to  this  phenomenon,  which  is  certainly  beau- 
ilfu!  in  itself,  and  eminently  so  t\om  its  occm-ring,  most' 
itMuark;'.!;!y,  in  tempest  and  darkness,  when  beauty  is  con- 
nastc;]  v,  ith  grand.-'ur. 

-//■r//  1!). — Tliis  day  has  aflbrded  the  perfect  contrast' 
af  yesierday.  It  lias  been  serene  and  mild,  with  a  bright 
-^;i!i,  iiucl  a  lair  and  gentle  br(-eze  ;  it  is  a  most  dciighlful 
i''V(  ;•,  e.  ]>nt,  the  deep  hollow  roll  of  the  ocean  still  con- 
iii'ises.  ;ui<!  creates  no  small  ditilrulty  in  writiiiij.  '^Flic 
i-;r:'p''i!lnr  a.id  all  iiar.ds  are  at  work  in  repiiiring  ihe  spars' 
aiul  ri'/iii'.!.'',  bruken  by  tiie  storm  of  yesterday. 

ylj,ri/ '2<). — And  it  seems  now  that  these  were  not  the 
i,:o^t  serious  iuji;i-ies  sustaiised  ;  the  jnmips  liav<'  l)cen 
goiri'.'"   iVi'(juei'.tkv'   lo-da^-,  in   '•rii>^eniie!if(.,'  of  our  having 


f    ^/.i    •  \L>.    IiULl.ANO    AMI    -.  '"i  i  ;    \M,.  .^  t 

IV  111  ilif    latr    L'al<'.    Id'   I'ln    -!iij)  \\  i^  [)ijri'cll_y 

i  :h     !■  .(iv    i>    111.;    li.i\\f\rr  u,i!i_-' iom^  :    Uf    iii.ii  c  onlv 

-  Mit  two  !i  (•!  Ill    w.itrr    in  twi'iitx-inni-    1|M||^■^.    ainl,   with 

!':•     ii.iii    iuTt /i'^     u'ni    >»  ri;:i'    \\i':iilicr    w  liirli    att'iiil    iis 

n-'\\.  iiiiv  rjiiai.;i;\   ,ii  w.it-T  i-  i-a^iK  i<  iiii)\  cii.  biii.  anuth"-! 

■\y  _m!.-  u!  uih.;  nii'jlit  I'l'iiiicr  our  sitaalioii  (lan'_H'ri)Li<, 

I  ;::    Muinji-    -v  \  •  r\   lia^l. 

/..■■'/  ,:. —  i  iir   win.i    iiu'i  I'.'t^' .1   liiiriii'i    iia'  ni'jlit  ami 

:'!';i    lui"  •/.('.      l.aiK   liii^  iiiuniiiiLr.  tiii>' ni' tin'  watcli 

...     '."•.■.  ;i  ;;ii  !   r.aiNi'd  (lir  ( 'a;,iaiii  til   iul'i 'iiii  liiin  t'lat,  a 

.    -><  I.  ,1  ji|r  ir.:,i'  ,  anufii.  w  a-  In  •;!  i:"_;  ilnwu  upon  ii-. :   tin" 

ii  i'Mit  ,.i  ,1  'j:iii.    ;■;•(•'!  ti)  \v  laiiw,  ai  i.    a-;  a   "-iLiiial    lor  u--  to 

II  Ml'   til.    (  1   lil!' Iji'  ■!   till-     il!l'i>i"l,i;!iiU.        <  mill.:   (Ml   til  (■!;.     1 

•i'~'';i;ill\   |p  ;•■■  >.\r'\  ii.i   lM.il, iiii'j  iK'ttiu.'.  ami  'jmis  jxiint- 

:    1    I    in   1'    111. It    ![.)!(■>.         W  «'    Wl'i,-    Ml  \    ^   11)11    W  itliili    dll'; 

1    ■,  !i  ■!-  11 !  in  r  : ^lir  Im-d  aiuitlu'i-  '.  iiii  and  iii  I'.^-tiil 

i  I'l    ii~,    iiiit    lliii^i-  I'll    1,1'aiil  wiiii  wi'ir  xriM'il  ill 
:i  lit  r-'jitl'il!^.    in  1  !aiiil    liial    slii'  \va>  a   I   irlli'll  --liil) 

III  .';■■      ill^l'.  I    li:>    iilljlli    -^;ii'l    \\a^     Ml     vIlnllL'.     lll.lt     I     v..    Ill 

(:    w  11  ap.ll    l:!ii  i!i\    iiiiiii.  \  .  iiiiU.   ami  watcli  :    ami  (  'a|ii.  in 

i      ji  It  mi    ,1  .jii.it  iiiat  til  lii'li'  li:s   r.iiti^li  iiiiiliiim. — 

<  >'ir  :■   ii  •  w  ii'  tii.'.\ '  M  1  iiiii:  1  Is  .'H'liii  lii-^-.  Im  - ',  ir  pi  i.\  i  i| 

t.i'..     :i    Dill':-;!    li|i':.ii|'    I-'    .'Mil    .     lir-Ii.llrlli'.l     111. Ill    n.iili.i- 

.  :i.  i-ar.\    Ii  iai.'  !ii"vV--  nl    lli"  ia\avi  --   ruiiia.illi  .1.    .;ii.i 

.    ill  Tur  W  I  -t   Imiii  -.    i' .    till'  1     ill'!  .ill  1 1    l!i.(  h- 


;  .i:iii'  I  II-.  Ill  iii;!ii\'  iKli'i  t  ■  I  ;n  /  pai  i  iiMi.  ii  >.  am:. 

,,.  I'  :   ,1  ■.  1  I  \   1  '■,  il  I -..I  \ '  1  -  )!ii  ;■,  <•  !i  1 1.  .i  Ml  !'\   im  .n>  m'  I'ui 

II  ;,  iji.  '■  .  w  1    I  ,'1  (■  '  i   \\  i:  a  11  ml  111.  .mi.  .'i  u  islir-.         I  in  -  w  .r^ 

.1..  n  1  .ilii''    I'  ,  ,1,11,  ilii'ii  I'l    .I'l  .ili.nr    ".  liirii    h.T'i    ii"^ 


3  2  A  .rOLTRXAL  OF  TliAVELi-  IS 

very  auspicious  bog-inniiva:,  for  \vc  expected  u  auj^iciiiMiy' 
visit. 

The  wind  increasinGf,  we  soon  left  tiic  armed  brip-  ('.:v 
astern,  for,  witli  a  very  strong  breez'\,  nnd  a  ronsiderabk' 
sea,  she  was  not  able  to  carry  much  sail ;  while,  our  ship, 
under  a  crowd  of  canvass,  pressed  forward  so  rapidly, 
that,  before  noon,  our  late  companion  was  out  of  sicht. 
We  sailed  more  than  one  hundred  miles  between  G  o'clock 
in  tlie  morning  and  the  same  hour  in  the  afternoon,  and 
the  evening  and  night  were  equally  propitious  to  our 
wishes. 

yipril  22.— Ihit,  this  morning,  the  wind  lias  changed  to 
south-south-west,  and  blows  hard  ; — a  wlialc  has  this 
moment  passed  ahiiost  under  our  bowsprit;  the  sky  is 
covered  with  those  black  ragged  clouds,  which  indicate 
inconstant  and  violent  winds,  and  it  is  higlily  probable 
that  we  shall  have  another  gale,  especially  as  we  are  now 
in  the  longitude  of  the  Azores,  which  {)ortion  of  the  sea  is, 
ut  this  season  of  the  year,  a  region  of  storms.  Our  leak 
still  continu-^s,  and  excites  some  apprehension,  especially 
as  our  pumps  are  very  l)ad,  and  our  carpenter  is  stupid 
and  inactive.  The  wind  now  comes  in  pulls  and  squalls, 
and  we  are  taking  in  sail.  Tliis  is  the  eighteenth  day  of 
our  passage — we  are  now  one  thousand  two  hundred  miles 
from  the  banks  of  iScnvfouudland,  wli''n.'  w(;  were  a  week 
since,  and  we  suppose  ourselves  witliin  seven  iiundred 
miles  of  Tn^land. 

9  o^clocl-  at  iiiffJd. — Our  apj)reliensions  have  been  re- 
alized, for,  we  have  sailed  all  day  undtM-  a  gale,  witii  rain 
from  the  soutii,  hut  we  liave  made  ten  miles  an  hour, 
which  has  fully  cdinppusfitcd  for  rircnm-t,:nces  otlirrwise 
very  unpleasant.      \V<;  arc  hap[>y  in  having  a  ship  which 


VVi.l    \\U.    ll.irt.\M)     \Ni>     -(  ol  ■    M). 


IS  roni.ii  k.f!il\  cajKilili-  of  cinAiii'j  ^;ii!  m  li<  .'■  vv  w  iiiiNj 
■  nni  ni  m:il\ii:i:  rapiil  [in  I'ji  fv^.  \\lit'ii  ( 'm-.'  liruilid  :  cii- 
rii;ii-!;iui'<  >.,  lircl'T  wllirli  l!i,lll\'  otlur  >lii[)S  would  In 
(■"m|).l!r(|   I,,  lir   //,,  ,,r  to  vlimlrii   '..lil. 

Ill  ill"' a!t<  rni>,.ii  \vi'  Ii.nl  a  \>w  li'a\  \  sea  w  Ii'k  h  cxpn  ,- 

"■i  nil'  til  ^''1  idii^  inii!i-\ . 

l!.'\ii!'j  |ii«t  rl-f'ii  !r.i;ii  iii\'  liirlli,  I  ua>  '-laniliii'j  In  it, 
.iii'i  in  tli<'  act  III'  !!!;■  i\\  iii'j  inv  (  Inilv  hmt  ni\  ^hoiMf-i-. 
uiili  .1  \ii'U  di'  L''i'i  '_'  "11  lii  .  k.  ulii'ii  a  -uililfn  lull  tlin'W 
nil'  111  a'ilii|]L^  u  ilu  '_Mi  at  vinli'iiri'  ii't'i  tin'  liirt'i  mi  tin" 
iiji|iOsit>'  siilf  III'  ill.'  -.hip.  Ilajijiil)  !ii\'  liiaii  \\  i-;  va\ril. 
Iiv  in\  >lii>wl.ii  r"-  '>tiikiii<_'  afaiiivt  tiii'  liuanl  which  ju'iiti '1 
tlic  hirtli  Innii  till-  cahiM  :   thi^  uas  Indkrii  in  tun.  Iiy  tli'- 

-iMck. 

In  llii-  i;':!nii' r  an  I'.iiijli-Ii  iia\al  cdnuiiainicr.  a  dw 
vfar-  ^iiicc,  w  a>  thii-uii  tliri'n..'li  a  [Hir;-li.>lr   in  \i\-  ca!i,ii; 

'   u  a^  IK  \  I  r  villi  aii\    iiKc.f. 

'I'lCAaiil-,  cM.uliiL'  llif  u  inil  shil'li  1  111  the  v.  i  -!,  ami  Iiii' 
^•iii.  !iii  aisiii'j  (Mil  ill  I'lill  sjili'iiiliir,  'jiMnl  ihi'  cluiiil-  iiinl 
til-'  \',  a\c-.  V.  hil"  the  .--I'ldii  viili-iiir.l  iiUii  a  line  inn  /.  ■  \\  it'll 
>i  ili.M-ky. 

.Iji;l  J  '. — Till'  niiirnin'j  cii:ii:::i::ccil  uiili  -i|ua!l-  Irnm 
N.  \ .  I  ..  aiiil  laiii  :  \m-  aiilicipaliM:  a  liiva-jn  cadlr  ti  iv,  Im' 
nir  a|iii|ilii'nv;<i;i-  h;i\  f  in  m  in  snjnc  iiumvui  i  .iisapjH 'iiitcl. 

II  i,':iniL.  j.  1/.  -■rin;  uiiiil  i~  11. iw  \.  W.— ll)'' 
SMU  -iiim--.  and  iIp'  v'^^  i>  ci  i\  crri  1.  lii  ii  and  Ini'if.  wil" 
till-'  llci'c\  (IiiicU  w'aa-;!  ill  iir  It.'  li /it  In  c/.'-^  and  I'ai; 
\M  ,:lhi  r.  \  11  i-  ,11  1 1\  ii  ■,  an  i  i!,i  •  i  l'.:!;;'  --  nn  In  lai  d.  vvliiif 
i\i'i\  ilii'il  i-  Mini';!. ill  d  li\  l!ic  <  .  i:iiidi-;it  c\  j  nctalii  ai  iif 
mal^iirj  the  I  iiii  1  vv  :i',iii  I  \Ci  i  ic'  ihn  ■  i;a\  ■.  \  II  i  mr  i  aii- 
\a--iv  M  t,  and  \\i'  lia\r  '!ic  |il.  i-'i!i'  lit'  -Ml  in  '  itc..ai 
;il''I' l\    111!' d.      'III.    iadicaiina-  1.1  lini-  ui- ilii' !   \Mli;  liii"  - 


S4  A    JOURNAL    OP    TUxWELS    IN 

ever  speedily  reversed — the  wind  soon  became  heavy, 
and  we  have  sailed,  all  this  day,  under  the  pressure  of  a 
gale,  which  has  sent  us  forward  ten  miles  an  hour. 

About  4  o'clock  this  afternoon,  1  went  on  deck  to  view 
The  tumult  of  the  ocean ;  the  sliip  was  pressed  down  so 
much  to  leeward  by  the  wind,  that  her  deck  was  inclined 
like  a  roof,  and  I  clambered  to  the  windward  railing,  anil 
found  a  situation  where  I  could  hold  fast  by  the  ropes. 
The  sea  often  dashed  over  the  ship,  and  involved  us  in 
such  copious  showers,  that  I  found  it  necessary  to  go  be- 
low. I  had  scarcely  descended  into  the  cabin,  when  we 
shipped  a  tremendous  sea ;  the  wave,  as  the  mate  inform- 
ed me,  took  the  ship  sideways  through  her  whole  length ; 
its  top  curled  as  high  as  the  mainyard-arm,  and  it  fell  up- 
on the  deck  with  astonishing  violence,  a  universal  crash, 
and  an  instantaneous  suspension  of  the  motion  of  the 
ship,  as  when  an  ox  is  knocked  down  dead  at  the  slaugh- 
ter. The  sea  made  a  full  breach  over  us,  and,  for  a  mo- 
ment, we  were  buried  beneath  it,  as  if  we  had  been  sunk  ; 
the  decks  were  swept,  and  the  water  came  pouring  down 
into  the  cabin  through  the  sky-light. 

j4jjril  23. — Tiie  weather  has  continued  extremely  vari- 
able, and  the  transitions  from  clouds  to  sunshine,  and  from 
sunshine  to  rain  and  violent  winds,  have  been  so  rapid  and 
frequent,  that  it  has  not  been  easy  to  say  which  have  pre- 
vailed, but,  in  all  the  bad  weather  and  gales  which  have 
attended  our  passage,  we  have  had  the  satisfaction  of  being 
rapidlv  impelled  towards  LuLdand.  The  plienomenon 
which  ttic  sailors  call  the  sun-dog  appeared  this  afternoon 
in  the  .\.  E.  Jt  reseml)les  the  rainbow,  and  is  doubtless 
produced  on  the  same  principles.  Wliile  we  were  at  tea 
this  evenintr,  tiie  c](Hid^  became  suddcnlv  verv  black  JiJ 


KN'.l.AM),    liOl.I,  \N»     .\M>     -(-Mil    Wit.  ^.) 

)iif  >.  \\  .  aiiil  pifsfiilK  ;i  >(|u.ill  >tui(  k  ii-.  uiii<ii  Idukf 
niir  (ii  dur  -.luiiiiln.:  >;iil  \.tr(l>..  We  iinint  uinti  |_\  t.Mik  in 
all  mil  liL'lit  ->ails.  u  itiiuiii  lartluT  iiuM-hicl.  .illhi.ii':li  lliC 
saiiH'  \ar\inu'  \Nratlnr  ((iiitiiiiK-il  tliiouiili  llif  t\  ciuii/. 

.l/iri/  J  1. —  Tilt  If  ua^  a  t)riHiaiit  laiiiliDU  this  iiidiniirj 
in  till'  ui  si.  ami  a>  \\v  \\>vr  imw  ••iPiitt'iuiiiiL''  uitli  a  Ina'l 
SI  a.  ilif  s|iia\  lamstaiitK  idokf  mrr  tin'  ships"  Imi\v.  ami 
[n.  ><  iilid  a  laiiiltuu  uhi'iit'Mr  tin'  sun  shniif.  \ti\('- 
iiiiiL'.  thi'  I  aptaia.  I)i  iii'j  coui'iilriit  lliat  tin'  liisli  rnast  cduKl 
i;.i!  li"  r.ti-  ili-iaiit.  nr.l.Tiil  iniisi  ,,{  (ii;r  canvass  to  !).■  takfU 
111.  list  \\r  slmiilil  run  iipnii  it  ill  till'  liaik.  DiiiiiiL'  the 
sill  riT'liii'/  nii'lit.  till'  wind  lilmv  I'uriniish  ,  an<l  sipialN  at- 
Ti'micd  i|s  till'  ii''\t  ila\.  till  tDwaii.'s  i'\,-ninL'.  wlim  thr  sea 
-iiu<i''iil\  \MiiI  liown  anii  hrcanH'  ('iiiiij)arati\rly  smiHith  ; 
III" 'jnlls  li  nl  lipcoini'  \vi\  iiuinrro'as.  ami  we  had  mi  ih mlit 
iliat  iaml  uas  ii'-ar. 

//>/■,'/  J.''. — Till'  uiml  lili'w  fiiiidUslv  tliroii'j;!  n  pait   I'l 

'  iiij'i!  :  ami.  this  liav  iias  nut  Iniii  \\li(.ii\  lice  Irmii 
ili'i^.'  si|nails  wlmii  li.isc  aiim.',..]  us  sn  nimli  ol  l.-itc. 
I  ill'  WHi'l  has  1)1, ,un  Inmi  N.  N .  I'.,  uiiirli  lia.s  [iri\rntiil 
•  air  niak;n_'  innch  (uaiiriTss,  altln:  i'_li  wt-  iia'.  r  li'-i'ii  ahh'  tu 
.■  !  ji  I  'ir  (■■aust'. 

No  liis'i    roast  ajipi-ai's  as  _M'I.  imt    onr   i'"  kiai:!)_^  ami 

list!  ii  o'.-i  r\a;ions    im'acc  ns    to  liriic\"  ili.u  it    canno; 


lar  la-iaiit.  and  ln;s    mi 


^!;•il  i^  siirn''l! 


iM\  inj  liailiut'  '_iilis  consiantlx  willi  ii.s  -\i.r'-  \  rsti  iil,i\' 
nnaain,.',  and  w  r  iia\r  iml  ^  I'li  an'.  Ii.'loif.  -n;."  we  liii 
':ii  li,iii'-.s  ni  \i-\v  iMund'and.  in  tin'  a'ti-rnon  l!ic  .si  a. 
\i.  inidi  iia  I  !i'  1  n  i  ininai'j  la'.  Ii.  s'iddi  a! '.  \v  I'lit  d'  •\ui,  and 
ihr  on  .Ml  111  1,011  '  rMni|iar:ii  i\  I  i\  Mno,iiii.  'j  n'  -  dun! 'til  •  ■; 
'  si-  ti  ,;ni  "'II    li.i\  ii! ;  '.'nt  niidi  I   I  ill    1,  •'  1  ,t  1 1 1  l.ind.  \UMi  ii. 

;tll   li,'-    W  pa;  I  i;  ■■    ''l'   :!    •  ■■  '   •■    'i;'     '.    \'.  •     d    '       •  '  -■     ''':'' a 


36  A    JOIRNAL    OF    TRAVELS    IN 

ish  the  swell.     We  sounded  at  8  o'clock,  P.  IVI.    for  the 
first  time;  but  without  finding  bottom. 

j4pril  26. — We  were  more  successful  at  midnight,  when 
we  sounded  again,  and  found  bottom,  and  we  are  still  on 
soundings  with  a  smooth  sea  and  wind  blowing  fresh  from 
N.  E.  We  have  not  the  smallest  doubt  that  we  are  now 
immediately  soul!)  of  Ireland,  although  no  land  is  visible 
ihis  morning.  The  winds  have  prevailed  so  nnich  from 
the  North,  for  a  iew  days  past,  that  we  have  been  prevent- 
ed from  making  cape  Clear,  and  the  southern  coast  of 
Ireland  as  we  intended.  The  sky  is  now  cloudy  and  the 
weather  cold.  1  trust  that  our  passage  is  drawing  to  a 
conclusion.  It  has,  thus  far,  been  prosperous,  but  you, 
who  ha\  e  been  at  sea,  will  not  find  it  very  difficult  to  be- 
lieve, that  I  have  confracted  no  great  partiality  for  this 
mode  of  life.  The  objects  which  I  have  in  view,  have 
liiade  me  endure  its  many  privations  and  dangers,  with 
cheerfulness,  and  when  my  business  is  finished  in  Europe, 
the  delightful  prospect  of  returning  to  my  friends  and 
co\mtry  will  make  me  encounter  the  same  things  agrdn 
with  alacrity.  We  have  a  huge  and  convenient  shiji,  with 
i:.  spacious  and  handsome  cabin,  genteelly  furnished. 

My  fellow  passenaers  are  two  English,  two  Scotch,  and 
one  American.  Tlsere  are  a  few  circumstances  respecting 
some  of  them  which  propriety  does  not  forbid  me  to 
iiiention,  and  which  may  perhiips  interest  you. 

Or.  R.  is  an  ivnglislirnai),  and  1  ha\e  tk^ived  nnich 
f'leasure  fron  his  ccnversa'tion.  He  went  out  to  India 
eight  >e;u's  ago,  and  has,  I  believe,  been  connected  wiih 
ilie  l^rilisi!  armies  there,  in  a  njedical  caj)acily.  nm-iug 
the  late  siiort  i!it<'ival  of  jicace  between  France  aiKi  (ijcai 
Britain,  he   wen!   fo  tiie  hA<^   o\  F)-ance   !br  his   beaUh. 


1-Ni.i wn.  ii>)ii  \M)    \M)   -(iiii.\Nr». 


W  !iii--  ihtit'.  \v;ir  hioLc  c>iil  a-;iiii.  aiul  tic  1  r- m  li.  w  iili 
til'-  ^aiiif  trfa<Iifrnii>^  |H>!i(\  which  !'.u'_\  :'ii.ipl'-.l  in  Va:- 
I'ljif.  put  him  into  pii^nii.  whtif  he  \sa>  .li  laiiird  f.  i.li'  ii 
iiiciiilh^.  \\v  is  ("iiMi'ii'ialils  MTScti  ill  ( 'iii'ini>iry.  ainl  has 
a  haiiilsoiiit'  shall'  o\  L:iiit  ral  iiilormatiiiii.  ami  >•(  [idiw 
liti'iatiin'. 

Mr.  S.  is  a  Si-c.ii-hn;an,  who  !.    <   hirii  in  tin'  ^i  !\  ac   nl 

ihr    Kir^Ii-li  I'.a-t  liiiiia  ( 'i>iii|ian\ .      I  If  w  as  <Mj)i!i'>  li   «':i 

lii-    Ihiiiirvvaril    li.iiiinl    i.assa-.'.  aiiil   <'ar!-i''il  a  ]Mi-iii''i'    {■■> 

l!l.'   !-!.'  <'I     l-'iaiifr.  uli.  arc    1,.'    IKiW    jilMcrds    I  ,_\    li,.'Ma_\ 

of   \iiiiiica  f(i  I".ii'_I:iial  t"  hi'  fxrh  ni.i'il.       \'.\'\\   i-irriini- 

>tani'i>   t'l    this   (It^^iTijitinn   appliis   (•(;nali\    l.>  ( '■ijita:n    I. 

.■\i  >  pi    lliat    tiK-    latti'i'  w  as  ill  liii'    la;:.!    ai:i!  i  li''  I'lriH' r    in 

thi'  -''a    -■■r\i.-f.       Ml'.  S.   i-   puNs,^..,!    ni    ii    ,;    -'.v^:'.':    IM- 

liuii  il  p.!!tiaht\   \\  hii  h  iiMiaIl\-  iIcmh  i-hi-.  w  rh  ■.!•■•;  \  i.  -a-. 

in  I  ha'  h|i'  i-t  III'  ,1  Si-iiir!na:':i.  aiiil  I  aai  .>i;i  n  ai.a;  ■■.!  with 

ili^  |i  i\i'nl    1  a!<iL'i<  ^  nil  Siiili  h    iir;aii".'s.  i'a<-ii    aii'!    ln;a_^. 

\\r  1,,!^  the  liiil  hiM-u.'.  aih!  phiair-  hiai-rlf  r.ci  a  lill'a    na 

thi'  <  h'\  a.tii'ii  (>l    h!^  riMii'i !  \  man   il'urii     i[ai«\      I'l'n'las. 

(   aptain    T.    I   h-hi.''.    !■  .\ '^  his  c.^ni'i .  \    ,|.    \',.!!    as    Iii^ 

riri'ii.  hnt  I'l'ii'ii  \"\\i<  lis  ill    I'a    i:!a.ii  \\'':'r!i  i^  i-\'ii  -^    \-\ 

ill"'  I  i!i  hn-ia^ai  ni  hi--  ci  ai;  j  i  ni  •  n.       I  ii'  !h  ais  ihi'  o  iman  -■ 

-inn  nl    his    ^ia;^-i\.  a-    i  raplani  in  ihr  !•  i-Mi  r  .'ina  al    n| 

r>iiii-li  iatanli}.       Iln   i-  Inil  ni    ■_ n,'!    h'linnMr.  aiul    nali'.'' 

•_ai'i  \  nj'  .!io.,,-i;  n'!.  ami  di'.  ■  1 1-  na'  la  a  h.  h\  i'a'  in  mm  i' 

in   \^  :ilr|i  hr  //r/.-i  ,',(■.<  ih"  'l''''s.       'Il.i-    la'    i!..i-.   ;'   i     han- 

i":':hi'r.    in    a    u,i\     pi'!,'rll\     in    >  hanii-'l.       II  -■    -ii  p    i-; 

an   i-nri''!-  as    it    I"  aai-i-'.    -ni  ii  i-  I'a    :..ri'c  nf  h.;'nt     a.i  ■' 

\i>    .n'tn  III  -.    I'lii/f^-    ai','!    i.''iii'y.    ••\ia     n    hi-  iia'-i    lanh-- 

1  a  M : ,  I .  ■  I  r,  •- ,  i ' ;  -  i  a  -  !  i  ■  •  \s  i  ■  ■  i  M  i !  n  a !  ! '  n  •  ! , ,  a  I !  1  a  h  i  -  i '  >  ■ ,  a  i  ■  .  n  '■ . 

\i;'l  iiali'i  .1    h<    lia>  nan''  i  !aa;'s  'n  t'a'  clia'a'  ti  i   ^l'  a  -'il- 

•',!■  •   iiMii    wii'l  !m  '.'n_'    In   i:i-    '/ail  aia'  nniit.'iai.       l!i'    '-.a 


38  A   JOURNAL    OF    IKAVEI.S    IN 

been  extensively  concerned  in  the  English  wars  in  Indm 
and  was  present  at  the  famous  assault  on  Seringapatam. 
He  saw  the  carnage,  not  only  of  the  soldiers  of  Tippoo 
but  of  his  people,  great  numbei's  of  whom  had  taken  re- 
fuge in  the  city  as  a  place  of  safety.  They  refused  all 
quarter,  and  rushed  desperately  on  the  bayonets  of  theii 
enemies. 

I  have  never  before  conversed  with  one  who  had  been 
a  spectator  of  the  voluntary  immolation  of  a  wife  at  the 
funeral  of  her  husband.  In  one  instance  the  female  was 
only  eighteen  years  old,  and  very  interesting  in  her  ap- 
pearance. The  horrible  rite  was  performed  in  a  grove. 
Troops  were  drawn  up  to  keep  order,  the  Brahmins  at- 
tended to  fortify  the  mind  of  the  young  devotee,  and  a 
promiscuous  throng  of  Hindus  and  Europeans  crowded 
around,  to  witness  this  sacrifice  to  superstition  and  mista- 
ken conjugal  affection. 

The  young  woman,  with  the  heroism  of  a  martyr,  plac- 
ed herself  in  the  midst  of  the  combustibles  destined  for 
her  funeral  pile,  and  having  laid  the  head  of  her  deceased 
husband  on  her  arm,  with  her  own  hand  lighted  the  fire. 
The  Brahmins,  without  delay,  projected  a  powder  into 
the  flames,  which  they  said  would  destroy  all  sensation, 
and  the  fire  soon  enveloped  both  the  dying  and  the  dead. 

The  same  gentleman  assures  me  that  he  has  often  wit- 
nessed the  adoration  paid  to  the  Cow.  They  prostrate 
themselves  before  her  image  which  is  placed  in  all  their 
pagodas,  and  when  passing  the  living  animal,  they  wavp 
their  hands  in  token  of  obeisance,  and  manilcst  tiieir  de- 
votion even  l)y  acts  of  tiie  most  extraordinary  and  dis- 
sustiiiij  character. 


K.N.;l.  \SD,    lioLI.  \ND    AM)    Ni'Dll.VND.  ■))' 

M\  ollici  Cdiniiaiiiuiis  ;ur  .iiMKihli'  iiirn.iuul  ;ill  iiave 
muiirrvti'il  ail  uhli^iiiLr,  accoiniiioilaliiiL'  t^'iiiin  r.  I'>_\  Illi•^ 
wiiir,  as  ym  may  well  siipposf,  we  luive  Ixooiin'  laiinliar- 
i/.i'il  to  each  otlu-r's  sucictv,  and  Icel  soHK'tliiiii:  like  a  scii- 
lUii'iit  ui  faiuily  attachiiirut. 

'I'liroutrh  the  roinaiiuier  of  the  day,  we  luni  lii:hl  and 
■  oiiirarv  winds  and  made  !)ul  little  jiroLMess. 

Ipril  27 . — The  last  lut'lit  was  very  tjuiet  ;  llii>  niorw- 
ni'i  the  sun  shines,  the  weather  is  mild,  the  surface  of  the 
>  haiuii  1  is  smooth,  and,  allliouirh  the  wind  i>  eoniraiy.  ue 
lie  cheered  with  the  idea  th^'t  \v<  must  be  within  seventj 
miles  of  llic  Kn'jlish  coast. 

W  e  looked  in  v.iin  till  5  o'l  Kick  in  the  afternoon  ul  this 
driv.  uiien  a  man  from  the  uui^t-heatl  e\(lainied — land! 
land  !   on  the  weatlier  hou  '        >-  *  »  *  v 


I  ui'iil  uj)  the  slnoud-i,  and  ^aw  a  mountain  in  Irelaml 
vJiicii  appeared  like  a  W(  11  di  fined  cloud  in  the  ed'je  (d 
ill'  liori/.on.  This  more  than  \vt  Icume  oii|<  (  t  occn|iied 
uur  eves  till  cveuin'j^  veiled   it  Iroin  our  \iew. 

The  wind  wiiicii,  a  little  fteiuce,  had  heen  ia\oiuMMi, 
,ii(n  came  back  to  the  N.  \..  aii  i  ue  made  \tr\  little 
headway  throinjli  the  nijhl.  Imh-ed  our  proL:iis>  has 
heen  \ery  slow  lor  the  la>t  tuo  oi-  three  days,  and  iiad  I 
not  lound  some  amusemrnl  in  writint.',  they  uouid  h,i\'e 
{•»■!  u  extremclv  tedious. 

.l/inl  Js. —  In  the  inornini:  the  lulls  of  ii.l.uid  i)ecame 
more  and  more  distinc!.  We  >aw  sac(-:>si\ .  Iv,  thf  heit'lits 
of  W  all  rlord — the  lolu  mount. iiii>  of  Wickiou  .  a;  a  ^'r<at 
distance  ovir  land—  lie'  .'*^alt(  i  l-laud>.  .n  ar  and  \erv  >'u  , 
tiucl.  and  la^tK,  ('.iiu>-oii-  pouil  .ml  ihi:  Tuvc.ar  roci.. 
o|'.^!|lu!inL'  I'.e'  -o'lth-i'a-"'  1  :i  <'\i;"'jnii  \    n:    Im  l:e.i.|,  w  !ii,-li 


40  A    JOURNAL    OF    TRAVELS,    IS 

it  was  necessary  to  double  in  order  to  enter  the  Irish  chaih 
nel. 

It  was  now  past  noon,  when  tlie  wind  increased  and 
came  more  ahead,  and  the  sky  assumed  a  very  threatening 
aspect.  After  dinner  it  began  to  rain  and  to  blow  hard; 
and  we  fearer]  tliat  we  should  not  be  able  to  double  the 
point.  It  soon  grew  dark,  and  the  night  came  on,  very 
Tempestuous,  with  a  rocky  lee  shore,  within  three  leagues, 
and  the  wind  which  was  increasing,  blowing  directly  upon 
it.  The  captain  thought  that  under  these  circumstances, 
(he  attempt  to  double  the  point,  would  be  extremely  haz- 
ardous, but,  as  the  wind  v/ould  be  a  free  one,  the  moment 
we  should  pass  the  Tuscar  Rock,  which  was  now  not 
more  than  seven  miles  from  us,  and  the  alternative  was 
either  to  do  this,  with  a  fair  prospect  of  running  the  length 
of  St.  George's  Channel  before  morning,  or  to  tack  and 
stand  out  to  sea  again,  to  avoid  being  driven  on  to  the 
reefs,  we  felt  the  temptation  very  strong  to  attempt  what 
was  really  rash,  if  not  impracticable.  Thus  situated  the 
Captain  called  the  passengers  together  to  know  whether 
!  hoy  would  risk  their  personal  safety  in  the  attempt  5  it 
^vas  unanimously  decided  in  the  attirmative. 

Accordingly  we  tacked,  and  stood  for  the  north,  but  the 
siorm  soon  increasing  to  a  furious  tempest,  attended  with 
■he  most  impenetrable  darkness,  and  the  wind  driving  us 
directly  and  rapidly  towards  the  Tuscar  rock,  we  were 
..educed  to  the  mortifying  necessity  of  standing  away  from 
iiie  land,  towards  the  ocean.  The  gale  soon  became  ex- 
rj-enifly  violent,  but  we  rode  it  out  in  safety.  During  the 
>torm  1  took  my  station  along  with  the  master  in  the  com- 
panion way.  VVf  sjilit  our  fore-top-sail,  and  such  was  the 
thry  of  the  winds  and  waves,  that  tiie  ca{)taii)  was  oblii''-'' 


t\   .LAND,    HOLLAND    AND    SCniLAND.  -.1 

•i>  L'ui'  Ills  lorninaniis  llutniL'li  llu'  spciikiiij  Iriimixt.  ami 
:ii-  .-at  I  IS,  u  lip-li  urrc  now  iiioro  Iio(|iiL'nt  and  iuip'ums  than 
iMial,  \vvi>   tliundcred  out  from  this  br.iZ'  n  throat,  v.  Ith  a 

■  lO'  that  -jM.ke 

■    l.iiaiitT  than  tlip  tem|ip.-t," 

llii'  >ciiit'  ua';  v<>ry  siihUme  ;  thf  sea  was  ocn'orod  all  ovel* 
•uth  !iiiniiii>ii>  rid'^t's,  and  the  spras ,  as  it  daslu'd  over  tho 
-iiiiwalf,  I'll  in  sliouors  ot'  fin',  whilf  til''  wavt's  slu-d  a 
iiNnial  liL'ht  on  tiif  ••  darknt  >s  \isihli','*  and  I'ornu'd  a  small 
lioii/on  ol"  ilhuninal»'d  watiT  aioimd  the  shi[).  Ahmit  I 
o'cloik  ill  iht'  murniii'j.  the  wind  hr<_'an  to  ahat<' :  a  lit-avv 
rain  di-hi!:'''!  tin'  decks,  an<i  at  2  tiicwind  shil"t<d  :  tlr' 
--torin  was  hillfd  almost  to  a  calai  ;  thr  s!\V  became  siid- 
dt'ulv  cjriir,  and  apprarrd  ot"  an  im<'ommonIv  dorp  a/.un'. 
uhilf  till'  st;.!>  >honc  with  wundorliil  biillianc\.  W'liat  a 
iiMiIrast  '  < 'ill'  hour  Ix'forc,  all  was  darknt'ss,  tempest  ;i(!  1 
I'urv  ' 

.Ij/ril  J' I. — '1  lii>  iiioininL'  the  weather  was  mild,  with  a 
clear  skv  and  verv  little  wind  ;  no  hind  in  ^ijlil.  The 
apj)earances   dl'  fine   ue;ither   pniNed    li()\\r\tr  \er\'  deh;- 

,-i\e.         \h(iut   ')   ii'elock     \.    M.   tile   W  illd   came   hack    to   th' 

old  point.  \i/,.  N.  I'.,  and  snon  hei/an  to  hhov  iiaid:  in  a 
1'  w  nli!lnI<■^  the  skv  v\  as  covered  uiih  dark  ilouds  and  thi' 
wind  in<  nsiied  to  a  'jale.  which  <  ontinned  all  da\  ano 
rai-«iii  a  he,iv\  sea.  |!ut.  just  heliire  evenin',-.  the  (dmids 
dispersed,  rind  the  sim  shone  out.  uilh  'jieat  hrilhancv. 

Ilnff-jiasf  '),/,larL,  r.  v.  — Inder  easv  s.^l  «,•  ar- 
il o«  stain  ill) 'J  I'll  tow  aids  jionit  (  arnsoic.  \\  Ikmi  I  lie  stni  in 
cleared  a\\a\.\\<'  disco\cied  the  same  land  which  \\e  saw 
ve>terdav  iuid  uei'e  happy  to  find  that  we  had  not  Ics: 
uiwch.      The  s|.,\  is  char  and  we  hone  io  hold  onr  cou:   ' 


4:2  A    JOUKNAL    OF    TRAVELS    IN 

I.' jrincf  most  of  i'le  day  several  ih'ps  were  in  sight  wilii 
tlove-rtcfcfJ  V,:  is  tnd  borne  down  on  one  side  ith  tlie 
force  of  tde  wi'id  3  fine  obj^'cis  for  the  eye  and  for  the 
pencil, 

April  30. — \Ve  had  liijht  winds  all  last  night,  and  be- 
ing close  hauled,  we  made  but  little  progress.  To-day  we 
have  doubled  point  Carnsore,  and  with  light  and  contrary 
jvinds.  are  beating  slowly  towards  Liverpool. 

2  o'clock,  P.  M. — The  weather  is  mild,  the  sun  shines 
bright,  the  surface  of  the  water  is  smooth  as  a  mill  pond^ 
»nd  it  is  impossible  to  imagine  a  more  delightful  day. 
Here  we  are  my  dear  brother  in  the  midst  of  the  Irish 
Chaniic!.  perfectly  becalnv.'d,  but,  I  console  myself  during 
!he  detoutioii.  by  recalling  you  to  my  recollection.  On 
the  ]."U  we  have  the  moiiiitains  nf  Wicklow,  and  on  the 
right  th(;^e  oi  Wales.  >t.  Oavid's  Head  in  Wales,  and 
r'le  little  riit^er  of  ishunl-.  called  the  Bishop  and  his 
rlerl<'^.  aic  in  lull  view.  The  land  on  either  side  h.as- 
iiiucii  tVie  same  ojipearance  as  Long  Island  used  to  have 
nom  Holland  Itiii.*  cxce|)t  that  it  is  much  higher.  The 
laountains  of  \\  icklow  are  coinju'scd  in  part  of  whitish 
-and,  wITh  h  appears  in  t]ie  siui  like  dirty  snow.  Wilfj 
ihe  glass  [  can  distinctly  see  the  channels  worn  in  the 
iVills  bv  the  rain.  Tiic  mountains  of  Wicklow  allbnf 
pure  gold  :  tliey  were  the  principal  seat  nf  the  late  Irish 
rebellion,  and  it  is  said  that  the  government  are  now  em- 
ploying five  hundred  men  to  clear  them  of  woods,  that 
iliey  may  not  again  alTord  an  a^\lum  to  banditti. 

Ha/j'-puxt  C)  o'clock.  P.  M. — We  have  just  returned 
lioin  an  exclusion  to  a  fishing  bciat,  lying  ai)out  a  mile  off, 
1,1(1  becalmed  like  ourselves.      Vv'e  were  intkiced   by  idle;- 

\ri  rrriinriice  r>rav  I'i'.iiTic!  '.  in  (■|»nnc•";Tn.lI^ 


FN'i  WD.  H'M.i.AND   wn  M'^rr.  vsD. 


'1  ; 


fif^v.  !i;ir  \»(  ,i(li.  r  ,i!i  I  ;i  \\  1-h  to  1.  .11 11  til''  iii'\v>,  as  «•■  liud, 
\  •■!.  iiji'  iiril  111)  cuMi  11  hi;  licit  it  111  w  itli  tlif  sin  lie.  Acror- 
.,  i.!\.\M-  li'Wi'icil  liowii  ;;ic  \,i\\l.aiui  ni'.M'cl  to  tlir  li-li- 
'M'.  b'l.ii.  i  iit'i'i'  \v(  I'l'  tliii'c  [ii'iijilc  on  lioanl.  \\  lio  aiiprai- 
'  i  iiiufii  ii  riilii'ii  at  our  a[t[>r()ar|i,  i|c)iil)llr>>,  Mi|)|ni^iii'? 
I  'a'  uc  'Acj-c  ri-\<iiuc  n!Viocrs  or  a  prfs.>  L'aii'i-  'lliis  lat- 
iu|'r'.s-ioii  iiiijlit  uill  liav  arisen  liom  tln'ir  s<Miii2 
'  'i  I  iiii  1  .  la  nii'i^ii  unilorni.  and  tlif  n'-t  *>(  ii-^  in  blue 
.;;  |i'..;-  Mi'i  pav.'alooii-;.  W  f  loLiml  that  tin,'  littli' 
I'  '  w  .  -  ■,  ■  Ma  III!  ai-oiiil)  ill  ( 'oriiu  all  and  bound  to  1  ,iver- 
I'  '"!.  1  In  \  Ii  id  iKi  nru-.  but  liuv  uavc  i:s  two  lliif  pol- 
[•"  's.  a  kind  of  ti^li  r'  -•■in  bli  If/  Cod.  and  w  <  prfst  iitcd  tin 'in 
'.■.  itii  two  bottles  of  liraiidv.  To  this  couiiiliiiu'iit  they 
^< 'Mil  d  \  1  1  \-  iiidilN'it  nt,  audwf  I'd't  tlifui  w  it!i  a  stroii'j 
i:n[ui  -sion  th  ir  tln'V  wiac  umIIv  MnuL'L,dta<.  TIhv  told 
II-  tiia;  till-  ('oriii-ii  niintas  \u-rt'  about  vl^iwji.  Jra/ii  undir 
_' r'/ii,i'l.  (ij  M|)|i.i-.c  thf  (  xcrulioii  ot  •-onn'  laU'  law  s  ciiacti  d 
.|Jalll^t   xniM'jjliirj. 

^Im/  I.  —  l.a-t  <'\vui'ii:  ■'  brci'/.c  ^inaii'j  u]',  v.hicli.  al- 
I'aoii'jii  n>'ails  alirad.  rnablid  u- to  vt;i,id  slow  ly  anos>  tin- 
iiioiiili  oi'  (  ardi'ian  i'.a\.  At  j-unri-r  tiii-i  nioiniii'j.  wv 
v.i|,  a!iita>t  ol  l'.,u-dM-\  Islr.and  Ih.icv  ll>-,iil.  .i  part  ol 
(  na  iiar^'in-liiic  in  \\  ah  <.  Ireland  i-  tlii-^  monifiit  in 
Ti'W.  ,ii  ;i  v'li  at  di-tincf.  and  uo  arc  luaiin^'  aiao^^  the 
^liani;-'l  liark  and  lorua!  d.  di-.|iutiiij  u  illi  an  ad\ii  sc  u  ind 
.1  .1  '■;r,io-,inL'  <aiiiiaits,  fVi'iA   iindi  ol    our  |iro'_'i  r-^. 

ii  i~  t'  diou-  to  III-  ditaimd  in  tlii^  ui.ouh  r  so  n^ar  our 
p.i! :,  '.'■>.  w  iiii  a  liir  u  ind.  w    -liould  h  i\  ••  bi  ni  at   I  .i\  rr- 

j 1  uitiiiat\(o   das-    lioiu    mil    (■..luiii.:    iip'Mi    ".oiiinliiiL's, 

\\][,  ■,;i,    ilu-  iv  l'i>-  s:\ili  d.i\    siiirr   tiiat  ovriit.       'I'o  coni- 
ri''.!s,(!.'  t'  r  oiii-  i|-!a\.  \\i-  tjt\«'  ;ia'*  u»ath''r:   \\i-  ar';  n'W 


44  A   JOURNAL    OF   TRAVELS    IN 

Standing  across  the  mouth  of  Caernarvon  Bay,  witii  ihf. 
hills  of  Caernarvonshire  iu  full  view. 

While  we  are  still  at  sea,  and  before  my  impressions  of 
this  mode  of  life  are  sensibly  weaker.ed,  I  will  give  you  my 
views  of  it.  In  the  regular  American  ships,  which  art 
fitted  expressly  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  passengers, 
there  is  more  comfort  than  one  would  naturally  expect  at 
sea. 

We  have  had  a  very  good  table,  nor  have  we  been  de- 
ficient in  the  articles  necessary  to  furnish  a  genteel  desert^ 
and  in  the  usual  inducements  to  protract  an  afternoon  sit- 
ting. At  sea,  when  time  hangs  heavily  upon  one's  hands, 
and  where  the  appetite,  after  a  recovery  from  sea  sickness, 
becomes  very  keen,  the  temptation  to  indulge  in  the  plea- 
sures of  the  table  is  veiy  strong.  Dinner  is  exjiected  with 
great  impatience; — it  is  the  most  interesting  event  of  the 
day,  and  the  motions  of  the  Cook  and  Stew  ard  are,  during 
fine  weather,  watched  with  more  solicitude  than  those  of 
the  Captain.  But,  the  culinary  department  of  our  ship  is 
very  deficient  in  neatness.  The  vessels  are  not  clean, — 
the  Steward  is  good  natured,  fat  and  dirty  ;  and  the  cook, 
a  ragged,  forlorn  negro,  is  scarcely  less  covered  with  soot 
and  smoke  than  his  own  caboose,  the  little  empire  over 
which  he  presides.  His  station  is  regarded  by  the  sailors 
as  a  degraded  one,  nor,  are  even  the  Carpenter  and  Stew- 
ard, although  elevated  above  the  Cook,  considered  as  on  a 
level  'A  ith  the  common  sailors.  They  have  a  professional 
pride  which  disdains  to  consider  any  one  of  the  crew  on  a 
footing  with  themselves  except  those  wl:o  are  actually  en- 
grossed by  the  care  of  navigating  the  ship.  The  rest  they 
regard  as  ''  lubbers,^'  and  never  fail  to  make  them  the  ob- 


KNi.!.\ND.    HOLLAND    AND    «miTI,WI).  l.' 

l('Ct>  (if  I  iiliriilc,  wlitii,  tliroiiuli  stri'^>;  ol'  wcalln'r.  tlitv  urf 
••'I'l-  II  il  up  till'  sliroiids  til  ill)  ihiXy  ahil't. 

I  111-  cahiii.  lit'ini:  at  (iiicc  lifd  i-omii.  jiailuiii  and  (iiii'mt: 
iMiiii  lor  s  )  lar'L'"'  a  mimlicr  ni' pcoplt'.  aiiJ,  Ixiii'j  lialili'. 
uli'ii  tli'TO  i-i  a  tiri".  ti>  smukc  witli  rvfiy  liitrli  uiml.  ha- 
Usually  an  dtl'i  ii>!\o  sirki'nini:  atniosptit'iT,  wliirli  iv  not  ai 
all  ctii  ifctfil  !i\  tlif  cuiicnts  lioni  tlir  hold  l)flo«-.  into 
whnli  tlif  St''\vard  must  ol'tcii  ilisct'ud.  to  l)i'nii:  up  tlio 
•  ahin  proviMou<.  and  ni  our  case,  tlu' evil  is  a;i::niiMitt'tl  hy 
til'"  ^nxll  I'loni  a  quantity  ol'  hides  iiioistrncil  li\  tin'  l>iL"' 
water,  uhicli  has  been  abundant  since  we  spruuL'  a  leak. 

."sleep  i>  much  ilisturbcd  by  tlif  ine\itable  circum*tance-- 
ot  a  sea  lile.  One  must  repose  in  a  narrow  space,  where 
the  liuibs  can  b(>  extended  in  only  one  direction;  the  roll- 
iuL'  ol  the  ship  throws  him  troni  one  side  to  the  other  ol 
his  narrow  biith: — the  rrtakini:  of  the  l)oards  and  timber- 
— the  loarinj- 111"  the  winds  and  the  tlashint:  ofthe  wa\t's — 
the  snoiiuL'  I'l  some  ol  tlie  pa-senL^ers — the  talkiirj  of  oth- 
ers asleep,  and  awake — tlit>  retchiiiL'  oi  those  who  are 
alVecti'd  with  sea  sickness — the  llappiii'j  of  the  sails  and 
ropes,  and  the  trarniiliuL^  and  vocilerations  of  ihe  sailors. 
Ml  niana'jiii'/  tiie  ship,  all  coiuair  to  put  to  lliLdit  a'.neealilc 
flieaius.  and  rilieshiii'_r  slundiers. 

\nd  not  uiilie(peull\ .  oil  w  ak i ii';.  win  u  roiiscionsnr'sv 
is  just  reiiiriiiiiL;.  tiie  thou'/in  that  \ou  are  alloat  in  the 
inidsi  ol"  a  di  srri  of  water,  alpae  ihe  le  ik.  lie'  broken 
paiiip,  till'  suiideii  i^ust,  ill.'  inii|ui'_'lit  coHisi,  .ii.  llie  contla- 

■_M,llio|i    and    lllr    lempest    |na\    so, ,11    s,-|i,l     yo!|     to     till'    otllel 

norld.  will  st,  al  arro->  tli'"  mind  witli  inelamdiol v  forelio- 


Neitlier  is  M  po^Nilil,    III  have   inv  r.ilioual  and  jn  I'lit.ibl' 
lispo.id    ot    t'iiii'.      (  )iu'    ciouioi    ir.iij,   .xc'iii    soini.lliin<4 


46  A   JOUKNAL    OF   TRAVELS   IJ* 

very  light  and  amusing,  and  that  in  a  very  desultory  way. 
You  can  have  no  retirement,  and  you  have  no  heart  to  take 
hold  seriously  of  any  important  volume.  You  must  be 
confined  to  the  society  of  those  on  board,  and  if  they  offend 
you,  by  conversation  which  violates  equally  the  lav/s  of 
morality  and  religion,  and  those  of  delicacy  and  decorum, 
there  is  no  remedy  but  to  bear  it.  Thus  surrounded  and 
*?ncumbered,  you  will  saunter  from  the  quarter  deck  to  the 
cabin,  and  from  the  cabin  to  the  quarter  deck  ;  and  in  the 
morning,  you  will  wish  it  were  evening,  and  in  the  eve- 
ning you  will  wish  it  were  morning. 

The  only  exercise  consists  in  walking  the  deck,  and 
this  is  so  often  interrupted  by  the  weather,  that  both  health 
and  spirits  lie  at  the  mercy  of  the  elements. 

The  sabbath  is  out  of  the  question,  and  if  any  attention 
is  paid  to  it,  or  indeed  to  any  religious  duty,  it  must  be 
within  one's  own  breast.  Add  to  all  this,  the  constant 
Hiidreal  dangers  of  the  sea,  which,  it  is  true,  in  the  present 
improved  state  ot  naval  architecture,  and  of  navigation, 
are  wonderfully  reduced  in  number,  but  which  the  columns 
of  every  newspaper  evince  to  be  still  very  serious.  These 
being  my  impressions,  you  will  not  wonder  that  I  have 
contracted  no  peculiar  partiality  to  this  mode  of  life.  But 
there  certainly  are  agreeable  things  attending  it.  No 
doubt  the  greatest  alleviation  would  be  found  in  select  and 
interesting  society. 

I  fear  I  may  have  become  tedious  while  I  have  gone  on 
from  day  to  day,  recording  the  changes  of  wind  and 
weather,  and  endeavouring  to  sketch  the  ever-changing 
aspect  (if  sea  and  sky. 

But,  at  sea,  dependant  as  our  comfort,  nay,  our  very  ex- 
istence always  is,  upon  the  most  mutable  of  all  things,  th** 


f.Nv,l..\M»,    HOLLAND    AND     XOTLANi). 


41 


;i>|)f(I  ot  tilt'  >kv.  tlu"  lorcc  ami  direclioii  oltlu'  uiiid.  ami 
till'  iiiiiiioii  oltlii'  waves,  tiu'sc  tnpics  assiitiif  an  impMitanrt* 
uliicli  tlu'V  r;iii  iifvtT  liavf  on  land,  and.  an  apii|.)<jy  tor 
tilt  ir  Irctjiit'iit  intrtxliiction  is  rrrtainlv  minetessary.  Still, 
tliiMi'  issnidi  a  di'L'rt'f  ot"  >anifnt'ss  in  the  iiioidfius  ot' a  s»ii 
liif.  that  it  is  dilliciilt  to  L'ivt^  tlif  narratiim  ut"  tlicni  any 
coii^ithralilf  tlii:  «'(*  ol  iiitfifst. 

i'.xilcd  fonipli'tt'h'  tVnin  ttii'  itst  of  iiiankind,  aiul  ron- 
ijiH'd  til  a  tl'>atinL'  prison,  cvfry  thiiiL'  intfrfstiirj-  in  the 
I  liaiactfis  ot"  till-  It'W  around  out',  is  spccdHs  fxhiiustcri, 
aiid  llif  sfciiiTv  ol  tlif  oci'an  sonn  <jro\\s  too  I'ainiliar  to 
oxfif  ;inr\v  llir  plciisiin-  whiidi  it  at  tirst  jxuduct'd. 

[ii  tint'  wiatlitT.  it"  i  niav  Ixurow  a  tiitf  alhiNion.'  tho 
old  iii'inirt  li  III  tilt'  dft'p  is  so  p!;i<ld.  that  his  sniilts  are 
insipid  ;  ami  w  Inn  hf  i  isfs  in  hi->  niiLdit.  ami  crow  ns  hiinsclt 
'.villi  all  tlif  tirrors  ot  his  storiiu  ilomaiii.  his  countcnam-e 
IS  so  tiiMff,  that  a<toni>hn  'iit  ■ai\i\  tlisinav  f\t  hul''  f\t  ry 
j>i'r<'ptii>n  ol'  lit-aiity.  ;md  li;a\f  tmly  an  iiiiprf>sion  ol'  ;i 
^  ii;d  I'!  Ii'iiiliik'  '.M-indtiii'. 

'I  lie  tiasi  Her  on  land  is  roiistantly  I'litiTtaiiifd  with  thf 
\aryin'/  Ix-.iutifs  ot'  land-fapc  :  and  il  thf  sccno  of  hi^ 
tiuM  Is  l)f  anion'j  ci\  ili/.id  im-n,  fon\t^rsatinii  afl'oids  hini 
a  iii\fr  lailim,'  sonrcf  ol  avii'taldf  iin  idi  nt  :  if  in  ii  foiin- 
:iy.  rfimwii'il  in  amii'iit  slot  \ .  ami  alioiindini:  with  the 
bt-autii's  of  fiiltivatii.n  aud  th>'  prmliiitiMn-  of  the  ,iri>.  hf 
.•iiu-t  il''  \ .  ry  unfortiiii.itr  indti-d,  if.  with  ^uniciful  l'i-:;ri-, 
at-  (Miia  't  Iimi  sonit'lhiiif  to  fiili\ fii  tin'  ti  ilion^  linidl  ol 
d  iti-v,  pi:  r.v.  ami  disiam'«'s.  In  sm  It  ,i  roniiti\  I  l.'ope 
>oiiii  t.i  hf.  whfii  I  tin^t  1  ni.i\  liiid  nialtfr  wliicii  \s  '1 
ill'.ird  tip  s'lli'fct  Mf  iiinif  f  rit'  :  t  liniii'j  iMrriti\f  i!mii  th.  ' 
\0!!'  h  h '.-  now  Ol  rii:ii(  d  t\\fnt\  ^'mii  da\-. 


48  A   JOURNAL    OP    TRAVELS    IN 

5  O'clock,  P.  M. — Tlie  wind  enabled  us  in  the  morning 
to  pass  nearly  across  r'aernarvon  bay,  and  to  bring  Holy- 
head, in  the  isle  of  Andesea,  into  full  view.  For  some 
hours  we  have  had  a  flat  calm,  and  the  current  has  set  us 
over  towards  the  southern  side  of  Caernarvon  bay.  We 
are  not  more  than  eight  mile-:  from  the  shore,  and  T  have 
been  taking  a  view  of  the  sublime  scenery  of  this  part  of 
the  Welsh  coast. 

Some  of  the  mountains  which  line  the  shore,  are  lofty, 
and  th(;ir  tops  are  covered  with  snow.  With  an  excellent 
glass  I  can  see  the  slo])es  of  the  hills  and  mountains,  co- 
vered, to  the  very  feet  of  the  cliffs,  with  green  fields,  cotta- 
ges, and  cattle.  Most  of  the  mountains  are  very  rude  and 
ragged,  consisting  of  bare  rocks,  rising  in  some  instances, 
into  obtuse  cones,  and  in  others  projecting,  with  perpendi- 
cular cliffs,  into  the  very  water.  The  inland  mountains 
appear  still  more  lofty.  There  is  one,  whose  summit  is 
covered  with  snow,  and  enveloped  by  clouds,  rolled  up 
around  it  like  curtains ;  I  wish  to  recognize  it,  as  the  fa- 
mous Snowdon,  but  there  is  no  one  on  board  sufficiently 
versed  in  the  geography  of  Wales  to  inform  me. 

A  beautiful,  and  to  me,  novel  contrast,  is  now  before  us. 
It  is  formed  by  the  deep  verdure  which  covers  the  feet 
and  declivities  of  some  of  the  mountains,  and  the  snow 
which  crowns  their  tops  ;  the  transition  appears,  in  many 
instances,  perfectly  abrupt;  the  most  vivid  green  termina- 
ting in  the  purest  white.  Were  I  a  painter  I  would  arrest 
these  transient  images  of  beauty  and  grandeur,  that  I 
r.iiiiut  iriicw  with  }ou  and  11 — ,  the  pleasure  which  I  now 
enjoy,  l)Ut  you  must  except  the  humbler  efforts  of  descrip- 
tion. ins^c.'lfl  of  tlie  mniiical  effects  of  the  uen'^i). 


Mfiif  J. — W,'  Ii;m1  n  lair  hrcr/c.  lor  ;i  ^Inut  tiiiio,  l.i^l 
.  V.  ntii'i.  I)iit  it  sdiiii  lucaiiK'  ciiitraiy.  anil  \\r  spi  iit  tlii' 
Mi'.'lit  ill  lirannu. 

!(•  (I'rlnck. — This  inDiniii'i  wf  fiiKi  oiir-clvcs  rlosr  uii- 
<\t'v  llolvluad,  ami  tlii'  ishiiui  of  Aii'jicsra  cni  our  ri'jiit. 
\\  liili;  till'  1-tt"  of  .Mai)  ajiprars  on  our  Icl't.  lint  at  a  'jrcat 
flixianrc.  Ilolviirad,  llir  lirst  iMiropran  town  uliicli  I 
iiavi'  x'.'ii.  i-  now  ill  view  at  the  distanct'  ol  ^i\  mih'^.  and 
with  till'  'jlass  1  ran  di^tiiifily  xf  tlio  lioiists.  'V\\v  town 
IS  situat'd  oil  a  <niall  inland  ol'  tli''  >aiiu'  naiiic,  Mjjarati  il 
ironi    XiiLrh'sia  In"  a  narrow  iVilh. 

'Tlif  i>land  ul  Ilo!\hrad  is  pi  incipalK  a  rude  mountain 
ol  naki'il  rock,  and  app(  ars  haiit  n  and  coiiilortlrss  in  tin 
•  •xlri'iiii;.  <  )n  ihi'  dfdivitv  ikM  to  XiMjiisoa.  l!i<-i*'  ap- 
;  It 'ars  to  !}p  soiiK'  arah!''  hiiid,  on  wliii  li  tlic  tov,  n  of  lloI\  - 
mad  is  liuih  :  tliis  town  is  iiio  >talion  of  ilio  pai  l^cls  :oi 
Duiihii.  tlio  hi'jii  iiills  aroiind  u  hiidi  aio  at  this  mo- 
;i!'iit  vivilil.'.  \\  t  ai'o  iio\v  pa--^iir.'-  ihrmiLli  a  n-Ldcii  o; 
•',  nt<'r.  uli'Tf  till-  iiHi'tiiiL'  ol  (ho  ndfv  occasions  a  violrp,; 
i-omnioUfiM  not  iniliko  I  li  !l-(  latc.  *  'I'hr  lido  rini>  hen 
\rilli  'jnat  Niolrnco,  and.  uilh  lin'  aid  of  a  fair  wind,  i^ 
::i'[)i'!ri,.'_'  us  rapidlv  t-ward-  I  ,i\  rijuio!. 

'I  In-  siiow\  inoiintaiiis  of  ( 'annarv  on  ivro  still  \i^ih|i, 
pn-'iiMij  ih'  ir  w  liili  top.  ii;|.,  tin'  cjoiaK.  'i  hr  iiiorii:!i-  i^ 
/i.lijlit[nll\  |ll^a^alli — a  lltoi  of  f.  M'rlooii  ^ai!  of  iian^po:!s 
.-  1  io-c  undi  1  our  wr.iiho;-  (|nai[>;-.  and  l!io  >ki!l',o"-,  lij!i!- 
ii'"|-'-,  liiiili  on  a  lock  in  the  wal'  i'.  i-  in  lull  \ii  v\  iuiom' 
(  ■;;'  !'  I". 

Unit'  nn^t  H)  ./r/,,./..  ../.  1/.-\'.oa,c  now  wiliiii'  (w 
'>r  iImi-o  mil'  .  o!  iii.'  .!:oro  i,f  Vn-l  s(  a.  '1  h'-  i-':oni  ;;s  , 
'lilo  J,  iiiir  hill-,  tia'  .I'M  lis  ji ':.■,,  of  w  1  lie! I.  and  in  niae'    !i  • 


\  !•  1'  '<\-.  'r.i   -!;,,. I  ,:-,u-  .N'.W     \ 


aO  A    JOURNAL    OF    TRAVELS    IX 

stances  the  tops,  are  well  cultivated.  The  whole  coiiutiy 
appears  enclosed  by  fences  or  hedges,  and  tarni-houses, 
wind-mills,  and  villages  are  scattered  here  and  there,  but 
there  are  no  trees.  This  island  is  the  Mona  of  the  Ro- 
mans— the  venerable  retreat  of  the  British  Druids.  Its  cop- 
j)er  mines  are  said  to  be  the  most  extensive  in  the  world, 
audi  can  distinctly  see  at  the  bottom  of  a  hill,  opposite  to 
oui'  ship,  a  long  row  of  chimnies  from  which  the  smoke  of 
the  furnaces,  employed  in  smelting  the  copper,  is  now  is- 
suing. After  being  so  long  confined  to  the  tedious  same- 
ness of  the  ocean,  1  am  not  a  little  gratified  with  the  scenery 
which  surrounds  us  to-day. 

6  o'clock,  p.  M. — At  1  o'clock,  a  pilot  came  on  board, 
and  we  have  been  sailing  very  prosperously  ever  since, 
with  a  fair  wind  and  a  favouring  current.  We  passed  within 
a  few  miles  of  Snowdon  and  Penmanmaur.  The  latier 
projects,  v.ith  perpendicular  clifl's,  into  the  very  water; — 
along  its  side  is  cut  the  famous  road  where  a  precipice, 
vhose  base  is  bufleted  by  the  billows,  makes  the  traveller 
shrink  from  the  edge,  while  impending  fragments  threaten 
him  from  al)ove.  Indeed  the  whole  coast  from  llolyiiead 
is  very  forbidding  to  the  mnriner  ;  perjiencficular  cliffs  lace 
almost  its  whole  extent,  and  ruin  awaits  the  ship  that  is 
driven  upon  it. 

Snowdon  is  lofty,  and  rises  into  a  number  of  conical 
p(-aks  : — the  whole  asseniblaire  is  veryuraud,  and  both  the 
tons  and  sides  are  covered  with  snow. 

We  are  now  sailing  close  uiukM-  the  slion-,  and  the  de- 
cliniii'i  sun  shines  with  full  lustre  on  the  iiills.  The 
r.iopth  of  the  river  Dee  is  in  view,  and  a  tk'use  ck  ud  of 
.smoke  h;iii<is  over  Liverpool,  and  iiKuks  its  situiition.  oth- 
erwise invisible  tu  v.-s.      We   c:innot  t'ft  up  to  the  town  to 


;"N..l.  SNn.   H'M  1  wit    \M)    --  "  I  i    \Ni).  '1 

,ifjiit.  .Ill  accuuiit  umIh.'  litli -,  Imt  ui'  iii.    all  jn .'pai in.'  io 
iii>-  iiibark  tu-iiitiiTiiw. 

I  hid  i/iKirfi  /■-■  jifisf  ^,>  >i'(  /■!(/:.  /'.  M. — 'l'iii>  iiiniiii  111 
AC  liavf  (Iroppi'il  oiir  anchor,  a\u\  our  ^aiU  arc  all  luil<i.' 
i'or  ilic  lii>t  liiiic  -iiicc  ui-  jcii  \c\\-\(iik.  W  c  arc  iiiil_\ 
ten  mile-.  I'liJiii  l.i\cr|iuol.  aiul  ina\  lairl\  c.iiiviilri  mir  p  i-- 
-auc  as  :iciuc\cii.  miicc   \vc  ^irc  >iiic  ol    lo'hi^  up  wiiii  tli' 

IU\t    thlc. 

l  he  uiL'hl  i-  \rr\  pleasant,  wllii  iii'inn  and  si.u-  lijln. 
!iii|  I  lie  u  aliT  is  Ml  -iiHHith  lli.il  (inr  caliin  is  (|nii  I  a>  a  l/cd 
riH>ni.  I  our  In  illiant  li^'hts.  in  as  inaiu  liLhl-iion-i  n,  arc 
Ml  \  i  c  w  . 

V'/;/  .■'.  [)  <i' I /'>(/.■.  t.  M. — '!'lic  inmiiiii','  is  \ii\  pha- 
-a:ii.  and  uc  shall  uci-h  anchur  within  ,i  lew  ininiiie>. 

'I  he  lli'i  di'  transports  aiK  iiort.'d  cIo.m-  to  lis  lasi  ni^hl  ; 
'.in  \  aie  Inll  ol' s,,ldifis,  u  Ik,  |;.i\  e  Ik  ?  ii  Miiai  Icri  d  i  n  lie- 
land.  i)nt  are  iiow  eoine  o\  er  to  l.njhind  to  c.\c|ia;i::e  d''i\ 
Willi  other  re'jinieiii>  which  will  lake  the  jdac  ol  these  in 
Ir.  land  :  lor.  sin.-r  ;hr  r-  !)f  llion.  it  is  the  puiicj.  oi'  the  'jov- 
.  1  iniieii!,  to  prevent  tin  ir  troops  li  om  ioriuiii';  i  onm  ctions, 
and  sir,  iir_'  local  attac  liiii-'nts  in  a  count r\.  \'.  ho^o  lo\a!l\  lo 
rdr.d.iiiil  has  al\\a\s  \n-\\  diddoii^  J  dn.  in  the  i  m  i,I  o; 
aia'ihcr  rill'  lli"ii.  a  del,  ciion  in  the  arn.\  ini.dit  turn  iht 
-cale  ajaiMst  tin    ■_■,; ,  laiMi  nl. 

I  .i\  I  rponl  r.ow  show  s  i;-  iiisiani  spm  .-.  and  w  e  disc, i\ ,,. 
<';;  the  sh,,!',  -  .coiind  ns.  a  (ailti\a!(  .1   ,oid  the  ki\  pi  oph  ,| 

(  o|;utl  \ . 

\\  '■  j  1  ore,  dod  up  the  ris  cr  .Ml  1  -'  \ .  >  I,  \\  iui  h  I  d',  e;  j 1 

stand-.  Ill  i:    th'    w  11.1    111 -in.  \ii\   hjh'  we\ciii'   uird-!.    ••■ 
In  111:;  tia    -inp  e.o  tii  to\*  n,  ,iiid  w  i  i  e  cldiLid  to  di  op  ancji,  ^; 

p|st   w  it  III  11  the   r.  ick  .        \\  e  Wi  re  iniiiiediaieU    \  isitrd  d\   til' 
eu-toin  In  niv,'  M'li,  ,  J  ,.  ;,|\,1  li\  s,  iine  ni'  !  <  h  o  I  -.  i  in   .  a  \i  h-  in 


32  A  JOURNAL  OF  TRAVELS  ICS" 

politely  ofiered  to  convey  the  passengers  up  to  town  in  liis 
boat.  This  offer  we  gladly  accepted,  and  a  little  after  one 
o'clock,  P.  M.  we  left  the  Ontario.  As  we  approached 
the  town,  the  country  back  of  it  presented  a  very  pleasing 
view  of  green  fields,  wind-mills,  villas  and  other  interesting 
objects,  and  the  noise  of  commerce, 

■'Thundering  loud  with  hei-  ten  thousaiul  wheels," 

indicated  our  approach  to  the  busy  liaunts  of  men.  A  little 
before  2  o'clock,  we  leaped  ashore  and  realized  with  no 
-'mall  emotion  that  we  had  arrived  in  England. 


No.  il-~'Livp:rpool. 

uh'cus — I'antomiinc,  its  absurdity — Custom  House — douceurs — 
Atneiican  Hotel — An  English  Church — Cavalry — Army  oi 
Egypt — Literary  Institutions — Official  Formalities — A  break 
fast — Museum — Asylum  of  the  Blind — A  Slave  ship. 

Mai/  3. — With  my  fellow  passengers  I  took  lodgings  at 
i  splendid  hotel,  the  Liverpool  Arms.*^ 

'  You  will  remcnil)er  that  my  hat  was  knocked  overboard  on 
:he  loth  of  April  at  sea.  1  was  subjected  to  some  embarrassmenf 
Ml  getting  on  shore,  because  the  old  artillery  bat  which  I  wore  dur- 
ing tiie  rest  of  the  j>assage  was  very  shabby.  In  this  dilemma,  I 
'lorroued  a  hat  of  a  sailor,  and  tlic  first  purchase  which  I  made  in 
h'.ngland,  was  of  course,  a  hat.  It  cost  me  5"^  ^-i)  and  one  of 
he  same  quality  would  have  cost  ^8  at  lionie. 

With  my  tVjllow  pa.ssengers  I  dined  at  the  hotel  on  roast  vc;d 
;Hid  boiled  salmon,  botli  excellent  in  their  kind.     The  cleanlines.= 

the  quiet — the  order — the  excellent  cookery,  and  the  prompt 
attention  of  the  servants  (well  dressed  white  men  of  very  re?per< 


vsc.i wn.  non,  \M)  AM)  ->  •'  n  wu. 

(  IK(  r- 

1 1,  ilir  I  \    ;;iii'^  V.  r  u  I'l;!  ti'  the  ( 'irciN.  w  lnn'  ciiiw  '^ti  iau 
'■at-.  K'pi'  il.u.i  iii'j.  tiiiiil'!in'_'.  and   paiil.>niii;u'  ■■uiim  J  lii"' 

•   'il"'!!.';!!!!!!'!!!  . 

I  -li.ill  (MTaNiniilv  auciiil  ill.' liif.arr^.  f..r  piiii'ic  aiiiii^-'- 
iiu  ill-;  iii!iii>-li  till' ini)>t  d' ri.sjvf  ciit''!  inn  Ml  natiniial  tas;.'. 
lib!  iM  cniiti  ifipt'ilili'  i^no  ut'  llir  >tal('  (if  |iiilil:.-  ni'iial-;.  and 
■:  ill'  liii'ii'in  ni  d./i  ad  ui'Ui  d'  tin'  [inldir  iniiid  :  lor  u  Ik  n 
■ii'M  _"  1."  li>  an:U-i'd.  lli<  y  u  ill  di-niaiid  mm'Ii  tiling-  a^  tli(\\ 
■  .dl\  M--r!.'lit  in. 

'I'll''  <  ^r(  u>  \v.i^  ri-owdc,!:  wcwrrr  lai--.  and  hi  in'/ 
|ii  I  I'TiK  unknown,  xm'iiI  into  tin"  'jallriA.  a-i'\ii".  (iliit-r 
;iai  t  .)t'  til''  IhMisr  u  as  lull. 

\\  <' uiTi'  suri'DUJidi'd  I)}  lliosc.  uIionc  dc|iM;iiii'ii;  Miiii- 
t  ii-iMl\  iiidical''  i  tn'ulial  (dass  nl'  s,,clri\  ili,  \  h.  Khi'.m  iL 
wliili  lli'A  <\Iii',iird  a  vjidtarli'  (if  tliVduli'i  \  lo  \\lii(  li  i( 
WMiiM  II.  .1  !)!■  I  ,i-\   1,1  liml  ;i  |),ir;il!id. 

'Ill'  li  ais  |M  1  li'iiii-  d  \\i  if  trills  a^tiMii^liii!  J.  and  d^'inoi;- 
stiatid  the  WHiidiiiiil  iMicc  und  ,ir(airai'\  'rt  nri^ruLii 
nMi\  riiinit  (il  \\  iiM'li  ill'    I  HI  man  lianii'  i>  cajialilr. 

I  lull'  \\fi"'   Iwii  ji  inloiiiiiiP'-.. 

'I'iir  ^uhji  I  I  i.r  till-  ill  si  u  as  I  iislic  Idvr  :  — oi'  l!;.'  sfc,,||''. 
tilt  siur_\  111  (  )s,-,ir  and  Mal\iiia,  rmm  (  )s.;,iii.  lint  jiaii- 
ruiuiiiir  is  altn-'iMliiT  nnnatin  al.  In  real  lil'c  nan  im\ii' 
<aiii\<Tsr  ill  I  ills  'A  a\-.  iini'vs  tiif\  an'  ijinl  .md  d'liidi.  and 
SIM  II  [K  i.|,|f  arr  (■>  It  liiilv  till'  II;  si  ai  i.i|s  in  |  .■iitnaiiiiu'.  Ii 
ina\  It"   saiil  iliai  It  atiunU  iihuii  im  ilic  ijisplas  nf  iina-!i  iii- 


aMr  a|i|ii  .ir.ini'      :,mi.i    in   i!.i-    rii.-l    l,i  v  .uiraMr  iia  j  a  i' •-!■  m  .it 
cinil..,!  t.i  !m-  i-ai'.)..!  la  I  ii:laii.|    .ni.l  I  ii.  ril  in.;  •a\  iImI  ::.<■ 
I'l'i-t  w  ,1-  Ml..;.'  ]i'.\\iT|iill\   Ir|i  li-.ii'i  I'll-    -I    ikiii:    I  ..iil,a-l    Id    a 
!i|i-  l.i  \',  liirli  \vr  h  (.1  lir.ai  I. a-  :\  ai.aiili  cinirair.! 


54  A    JOURNAL    OP    TRAVELS    tS 

genuity,  in  expressing  a  whole  narration  or  drama  without 
words  ;  this  is  true  ;  but  the  drama  would  be  far  more  in- 
teresting if  expressed  in  words,  and  every  one  who  has 
seen  a  pantomime,  must  have  felt  a  degree  of  impatience, 
and  even  anger,  at  the  very  incompetent,  although  ingen- 
ious efforts,  which  a  performer  in  pantomime  makes,  to 
bring  forth  an  idea,  which  a  little  plain  talking  would  at 
once  tixpr':'';s,  with  force  and  beauty. 

A  man  may  learn  to  walk  on  his  head,  and  everyone 
sviil  pronounce  it  svonderl'ul,  while  all  the  world  will  still 
agree,  that  it  is  much  better  to  walk  on  the  feet,  ft  would 
seem  therefore  that  no  one  who  has  the  use  of  his  tongue 
^vould  clioose  to  converse  by  motions,  any  more  than  a- 
man  who  has  feet,  would  prefer  to  walk  on  his  head. 

CUSTOM-HOUSE. 

iMai/  4. — The  embarrassments  created  by  revenue  lavvs^, 
rtud  the  formalities  which  most  civilized  nations  observe, 
on  admitting  a  stranger  to  enter  their  dominions,  are  among 
the  unpleasant  things  which  a  ti'aveller  must  encounter. 
Our  share  of  vexation  has  not  been  very  great,  and  yet 
some  things  have  occurred,  which  one  would  wish  to 
avoid. 

After  our  baggage  had  been  landed,  under  the  eye  of  a 
ustom-house  officer,  and  deposited  in  the  public  ware- 
houses, it  became  necessary  for  us  to  reclaim  it,  that  is  to 
^a}',  in  plain  English,  to  pay  a  douceur  to  the  examining 
'ifficer,  to  expedite  its  liberation,  and  not  to  molest  us  by  a 
ngoious  examination  of  our  parcels. 

Being  confident  that  1  had  no  articles  which  could  justly 
be  charged  with  a  duty,  I  felt  strongly  disposed  to  resist- 
(he  oppressive  demand  of  a  rontri!nition.  ibr  a  mere  dis- 


K\C.I    \Nt).    HOLLAND    AND    .-lOLLiMK 


(■ii;u'j>  .  lii  lailnr  {m  a  nti;li  <  t  ni  oliic  ,iliiul_>..  I'li'.  b<  iuc; 
iiil<riii'  ti  lli.it  tlif  thiiiL:  ua^  iii'iiNjiiuv.iiiii',  uii'.i  ^s  I  uould 
sill  nil  u  t>>  li;i\  '■  jn\  l>aL"-'i-<'  <l'l;iy(  J  mai  ul  ii<i\  >,  w  itii  f\- 
(IV  <  uiuiii^taiKi-  «i  \rvii!icir.  aipi  viiihanassiin'iit,  w  iiicli 
I  \|)ciK'ih  "ti  iiit:'.iiuit  V  ci>:clil  iii'.<;,l.  I  .It,  l-'iiL'Sli  <-..ni  liiiicd 
Ik  jj.iy  liitMiiliii;i  .  I'ii(.  I  1.  iii:iik''«l  I'l  liii'  |M  iMiii  who 
ii.ul    ui\i;i    ni'-t!ii-  :iiloMii;i;i.i;i.    all    1 .11  _  i  iMuiiau  '    llial    1 

.-llj'|)i)>,'(l  till-   IMHili  V    luit^t  1k'  (  tlrrril   t(i  SDlllf  el   tlui--0  Lil^- 

l;>-iI  ii'llows  who  act  as  tiil''  uaitrr^.  .uul  inH  to  llios.^  in/l- 
/L-<'\t(!  nil  II  abiMit  till,' custiHu-ii'i.  m-.  Ilr  ri'iilii-d;  uitli  >: 
>iiiilt',  tiiat  tiiDse  wi.TCtlie  lij'-ii  ;vli()  tilfit/uilt  li/  iv{i:\\(\\ 
ihf  iiioiny.  Accunli;,.'! , ,  aiiioii.'  all  the  jya^sruL;'!  s  t»l' llit 
Oii'iariii.  a  >iiiu  was  iiiailf  i  p  uiiii.li.  w  t.-  -iippo^iil,  wuuid 
kaii^i-  Ju'Tii't  a  |)nwri-  wliiiM  allfjijiA  lias  m'jr  niJiTsiait- 
»il  a-  hiiiii!.  til  licroDii-  sull  Mir.'li'r  than  ln-lort'.  Nor 
wrii-  \\f  (i':-:i[ij)niiiic(|  ;  j.nii  can  lianilv  iiiia'_'iiit'  tlii'  ilVix't 
til'  ii'.ir  (l.'ia-f  iir.  I'm-  it  would  li"  hai'^li  lo  call  it  a  biilic. 
I  111-  ;/■/ //-r-'/v  .vv(  J  man,  \\  iio  wa'jiii  to  lia\  c  iii^liccti  d  rvi  1} 
»l;i:ij  ill  |f  r.Miii,  stood  aloof,  aliftiiii::  to  !)»•  ..■iiL.'aiz-il  in 
t  niiVfisation  witli  otiii  I-  |,fojiI.'j  wliik-  a  l)(>L'L;arl_v  I'rllow 
r<rii\f'd  tin-  iiioiH).  W'c  -uirciidfi-cd  our  keys,  wlicii  li>' 
i'[M  iird  oiir  inuiks.  and  uilliout  laLiiiL'  np  a  siiii.de  arti(  If, 
<iid  thai  uc  had  h«  havrd  liko  'jiiitli  iii'ii.  and  thai  r\<  r\ 
lhiii_'  w  i>  [nTlrrtlv  coiifct.  l|i-  tin  11  cloM'd  oiir  tnnils- 
and  r.tniii' d  thr  k»'_\s.  Had  tiny  sran  lifd  rlic.iuall\ . 
llr  '.  \MMild  ha\r  toiind  .1  (iiiaiitity  of  cosl!_\  l'ooov.  whirl/, 
^N  lih  \  had  Ibt  hrcil  <  l.Ii  Ii'd,  It  wa^  tin  il  dilt_\  to  siizr; 
and.  iii.!<-id.  tlnir  ^ii^picion^  niijht  will  hasr  litiii  •  \t  il- 
r^l  1)\  til''  iiii'-ii:ii::inn  -I'.i'  ol  ^'Hin'  I'l  tin-  Iiniik-. 

\  \Miii;;  1  ar.di>liaian.  a  111' I  1  ^l  oin- t'l  tin-  jiassrii:,'ia'^. 
hiinj  [III  N' lit  al  till'  r\anilnai.oa,  1  i-mon^Iralrd  uith  the 
•  .xaniiiiiHL:  oliiia-r  aiain^t   hi^   mi'imiil;    inontA.and   told 


.>6  -V    JOURNAL    OF    TRAVKLS    IN 

him  that  it  was  a  disgrace  to  an  officer  paid  by  the  kiny. 
The  reply  was  : — ''•  Sir,  I  have  a  family  to  support,  and 
receive  but  thirty  pounds  per  annum  ; — this  is  all  I  have 
10  urge.''  I  have  no  reason  to  suppose  that  the  collector 
has  any  concern  in  this  business  :  but  it  is  impossible  tiiat 
the  tiling:  should  be  unknown  to  him,  since  it  occurs  every 
day.  and  is  done  without  even  the  appearance  of  secrecy. 
J'ndoubtedly  he  winks  at  the  practice. 

But,  it  is  certainly  a  disgrace  to  the  government  to 
starve  their  petty  officers,  and  then  connive  at  their  receiv- 
ing bribes  to  shut  their  eyes  on  smugejled  articles,  to  the 
detriment  of  the  revenue,  and  the  conu])tioii  of  public 
morals.  As  this  part  of  the  business  of  the  custom-house 
is  now  managed,  the  primary  object  of  inspection  is  com- 
pletely lost,  while  individuals  are  subjected  to  a  vexatious 
and  oppressive  interference,  the  only  effect  of  wliich  is  to 
j)ut  money  into  the  hands  of  the  petty  officers,  who  ought 
to  be  severely  punished  fur  receiving  it.  With  skilful 
packing,  and  a  douceur  so  large  as  to  be  considered  gene- 
rous, and  yet  not  so  great  as  to  excite  violent  suspicions, 
tliere  can  be  no  doubt  that  goods  whose  value  is  great  in 
proportion  to  their  bulk  might  be  smuggled  to  a  conside- 
rable amount,  and  still  pass  through  cwevy  fonnaliti/  of  in- 
spection. 

My  baggage  being  cleared,  I  next  presented  myself  to 
the  collector  in  person,  who  made  out  duplicate  manifests 
of  my  name,  age,  place  of  birth  and  residence,  jjrofession, 
and  business  in  Kngland,  together  with  a  description  of  my 
person,  and  a  list  of  those  to  whom  1  am  known  in  Liver- 
pool. I  wrote  my  name  on  both  papers,  and  he  retains 
one,  and  I  keep  the  other.  With  this  instrument  I  am 
next  to  wait  on  the  Mayor,  to  take  further  steps,  lo  ensure. 


FNi.I   VM>,    HOLLAND    AM)    <<OTLAM).  .», 

//((•  .<{iiiti/  of  /lis  Mdjcafi/'s  person  ciitd  I'urcrnmi  nt ,  ilur- 
iii-  iiiv  r<-nlriict'  ill  Hiit'laiul. 

A.MKIUfVN   !I()TKL 

I  'iimd  ti)-tiay  at  a  liuu--«'  ni cti'd  ami  krjtt  fov  ilit-  ar- 
I  oiiimixlatinii  ol'tlif  iinillitii  Ii'  vl  Americans  ulio  resort  to 
tliis  |niil.  'I  111'  words  \Mi:iu(  \N  moiki.  are  writlni  over 
t!i<-  iloor.  uhicli  is  oriiaiiitiilcd  with  tlie  Aiiicrican  I'.airlcj 
•Old  iIk'  ualiop.al  motto, '•»'  |)!inilin.>  unum."" 

'I  lux  parade  of  Vuifrican  iii^iunia  is  not  adilres^cd. 
wiilmut  I  fieri,  to  the  national  vanil\  c!"  our  countrvmeii. 
Till  \  erov\  d  to  tiiis  house  in  'jreat  numlteis.  The  insirip- 
lioii  o\cr  til"'  iliKir  arrests  ever\  Vmeriean  e\e; — the  na- 
tional l.aL'le  excites  patriotic  svmiiathies,  and  th<ise  who 
cannot  constrne  the  motto,  hopr  it  means  ^ood  liriii^. 
\nd  it  nm-t  he  confessed  that  this  construction,  alihouirli 
not  very  litiral.  is,  in  point  ol  tact,  suhstantially  correct. 
'I'll''  talilf  is  ahund.mt  and  chcajt,  and  ahhouLfh  the  house 
i>  not.  perhaps,  the  most  'jentetl.  th''  "-troni:  ti'ni[itatioii  ot 
nalicii'.al  s(,<iety.  wiieu  held  out  to  heiuiis  so  'jreL'arious  as 
our  ciji.ntrs  men.  i>  t'enerallv  sucaasstiil  ;  and,  at  the  daily 
oi.iinarv,a  kind  ol'  Conuressol'  the  American  State>  is 
cwu\  rued,  w  here,  il  lln'v  choose,  thev  nnv  rail  with  inipu- 
n;'v  at  llie  country  (jn  whose  produciiou^  ihey  are  t'eastiu'i. 
nor  I'Mr  a  nnlitai\  arr<st,  heiore  the  next  dinner.* 


It  ri-.,ii;i<'-  IK)  iiuoti-iduriilili'  t-troil.  to  ri--i-(  ihc  iiujiul-'  \\  liici. 
■-  I  im',1,  tl  and  ,iii[i;iri'iitly  so  rc,i-,()Mal,lr,  to  a--uri,i;.',  \s  in  ii  our 
;-  111  .1  !■  M  I  i  ;ii  laud,  piiiirii'  ill  V  %\  I'll  I'lir-  iiw  II  i  ii;iiit  r\  iiinii  V 
,clf.  t  (  .jijij.:Uil.iii.  wr  t  vVo,  ni  thi-  kind.  \\if]\  ,1  (  "n^i'liial  ^pii  il .  m:iy 
Sr  \rv\  ii~i  in',  ,iiiil  \  rrv  .:;.i''Iiil  !'■  Mi;i  .  ii'i  !in.;«,  \\  Kile  arilciitly 
riu:,i.:'-i!  ill  '!i''  jim-im  iitii)ii  ,,1  kn.iw  Ir  '..<■.  .in. I  it  \\ onM  Ik-  iifili.iii- 
tiMi  .p\cri'  to  I'l-w^i'iil'i-  ;ei  mi  .■:-  inn  il  in'!i;l.,tMiT  in  llit-  -'uiid  er. 
"ViiU'iiI-,  t'l  hr   !"'iiid   ill  i-iilio-  I'iii  !•     ■'."■.i   ov.:\   c  'Uliti  \  De  n  , 


A  JOUIIXAL  OF  TRAVELS  IN 


AN  ENGLISH  CHURCH. 


May  5. — Our  host,  this  morning,  concluded  me  with 
cUi  American  companion  to  church.  It  was  a  beautiful 
octagon,  neatly  fitted  up,  but  its  empty  seats  formed  a 
melancholy  contrast  to  the  o\erllo\ving  numbers  of  the 

circus.       The  preacher,  Dr.  M ,  gave  a  very 

good  discourse,  and  delivered  it  with  much  solemnity ; 
but  it  dwelt  entirely  on  morality  and  the  decencies  of  lil'c, 
and  contained  almost  a  declaration  in  so  many  words  that 
the  sum  of  religion  consists  in  the  exercise  of  humanity 
and  of  the  social  virtues. 

Cicero  or  Socrates  would  hardly  have  said  less,  and 
except  tlie  exordium  and  peroration,  the  sermon  might 
have  heen  embodied  with  their  writings,  witliout  exciting 
a  suspicion  that  its  author  had  drawn  wisdom  from  any 
other  than  Greek  and  Roman  fountains. 

ENGLrSH  CAVALRY. 

The  French  horn  and  other  martial  Instruments  are 
now  soimding  before  the  door  of  the  hotel  and  make  one's 
blood   move  witli  a  quicker  pace  through   hi.s  veins. — I 

bill  tlicre  can  be  no  doubt,  tliat  if  a  traveller  would  study  the  elia- 
racl.r  of  tlie  j/oopie  among  whom  he  is,  he  ilioiikl  iminei'se  him- 
self completely,  and  in  getieral  i.rclusireli/.  iu  their  society.  He 
will  thu.s  see  thein  constantly;  in  new  and  interesting  relations; 
}ie  will  not  feed  his  own  prejudice--,  and  (•onfinii  hi?  own  errors, 
by  a  constant  at)d  invidious  conipari<;'n.  -if^tained  by  conversation 
with  his  own  countrymen,  and  what  is  of  no  small  importance,  ho 
will  be  in  far  lo-s  danger  of  being  allured  into  haunts,  from  which 
he  can  scarcely  e-cape  with  innocence.  Certain  it  is,  that  some 
persons  reiurn  from  fort^ign  countries,  with  les?  kno^vledge  of  all 
\vhich  it  is  desirable  to  know  concerning  them,  tlian  is  possessei! 
by  many  in'i  lliivnt  people  at  hosne, 


^s<■l  wr),  iioi.i.VM)  \M>  -(ufi.wi). 


ua>  uiitiii'j  III  iii\  (li.iiiibor,  wliiii  a  lull  liu-t  nf  w  ai  Iiki' 
iiiii-i«  lilt  u  nil'  ii  ic>i>tiliK  til  till'  (ItM)i .  u  li.  ii  1  iii|i,\  I  il  .1 
llljll  lit  t'lff  <'l  |p|ra>lllf,  Inuil  till'  Mllitrd  t  llul  Is  (i|  a  lai  ■_'!■ 
haini  iiiniiiiti'd  dii  Imisf  lia<k.  Kdiicalni  a>  I  had  In  in, 
111  a  jifactliil  (uuiitrx .  and  in  a  jk  aci  inl  jn  i  iud.  Mm  \\  ill 
iiiil  wondir  that  mh'Ii  a  surll  ol  lianiinm.  |iiiiii  ipallv 
iiniii  a  '.nal  imhiiIxt  I'l  di'i'|i  imii'd  wind  iiisn  inii(iii<, 
^hiuild  alii  ri  jiif  HI  a  \ir\  iiilfi<  slin'j  maiiinr.  not  iin!\  as 
nin^ic.  tiiit  ii\  >.iiininiiniii'_r  up  the  awliil  asMirialiuiiN  ,)\ 
l-al  Ual.  I  cirlaillK  l|r\ii-  [ill  ail  ilirct  iil'  tll<'  kind 
uliirli  \\as  -,i  ii\  I'lw  lii'liiiiiiL:.  'I'liiK.  niii'  nalurally 
va\-  111  iiiiii-rll  llniN,  tlii\  aiiiiiMli'  tin'  liravi-  and  iiiiji>-l 
dii'  liiiiid.  Ill  ill"'  s  iiiL^uiiiaiA  <li:ir'ji' :  —  lh;i>  llit\  drnwii 
ill-'  •_!  iMiis  uf  till'  iKiiiL.'.  and  aiia\  llic  fn'ld  ul'  sl.iii:_dit<r. 
',v  nil  rill  iiiiivian'-f>  III'  pipiiip  and  laM-in  itimi. 

Till'  haiid  III  |iii'L'>  t'l  a  (Hips  III  liLrlit  liiii->i'  v.iiirii  i^ 
ii\ii\\id  I  \.  i\  i|a\  ill  Irniil  111' litis  liii  isi'.  win  If  ('.iliiinj 
1 .11, nil  \ .  till  ir   rMiiun.iM  Iit.  n 'si, Irs.      !■  i.r  ihi-  MM^nn  t\\  '■ 

I  rntil'.i  U    .111'    T'liis     iiilU     w.dkllPJ    llrliiic   l!|'-   d'HU'.   and    til'' 

11 11  an-  air  CI  iiw  did  \\  idi  nnlil.ii  \    nun.       \  n'l  will  W'\  siis- 

fii-rt  nil-  111    a  parad''i'l    iinntiiMi-     m    liii-    iiinaiks    inadr 

Mp'Mi  till  i;    niii~!''.  will  II  I  intiirin   \iin  lliat   tliis  imps,  wiiii 

tin  ii    liilii!.'!,    Ui|i    api:l    nl  till'  111  a\  1-    ,iini\     ><i     I.L'vp'. 

\'.liiill     r  .iMjiHird     i ' '  a  l.lp  i '  !■  "s     lin-i-iid     i  lU'i  lU  >hli  :< .     and 

.iiim:--'!  liir  w  II    ill    till'    I.a-I.        Till'  siiiNiviri.'  I'Kn'ii-. 

•     ':  li'  ai"i,ili|i'  milk  Hi  di-;ini  lii'ii.  wi-.n    ,i    i/i  Ihn-  i  ih/nni 

.iiiii.  11  'in-  is'..      I'.Hii  !i  II  i\\  s.  II  in -I  111  I  111  :ii  I"  'k  L.p  ilnir 

;       ;  '.1  '.■    i|,    1  .'jx  |,i.  ,:in|   |.-\\  .  \  (I  \    'i  w     i  .-in.' i  n   I "    sj,,  \\ 

:i\iiial     1:.' '  •:  li  a.id    Mill'iii',',    iIp'     I  "_v    w  as   j  ,i  ,i  i  Iiasii  i . 

—  W  ••  iia\  1'  I'll''  dill'  11    III   I'l''  In II 1-1    V.  I:.i    |m   I  .1  |.  'J   in    Iia 

'■  iiMp  ('■  11.  !iMi  !  '^  \\  •  r,  ^  ,1  Till  !v  siili-i  a ,iiiv  \u' 'i    1   ii'  ■  !■    ^>  1 

'm  !\   liui,.'.  hM'.  f.iii  !i.i    1,1-  liiii;iii:.'.  li':-    I"--  \\-ii!  '  :•- 


60  A  JOURNAL  OP  TRAVELS  IN 

be  perceived.  The  I^nglish  light  horse,  judging  from 
this  specimen,  must  be  admirably  calculated  for  celerity 
of  movement.  The  horses  have  slender  limbs,  with  great 
muscular  activity,  and  are  very  quick  and  high  spirited  ; — 
their  colour  is  a  light  bay.  The  men  are  also  rath- 
er slender,  and  very  active,  and  most  of  them  young. — > 
Their  dress  is  blue,  exactly  fitted  to  the  body  and  limbs  ; 
it  is  composed  of  tight  pantaloons,  and  a  close  buttoned 
short  jacket,  reaching  only  to  the  hips,  and  without  the 
smallest  portion  of  a  skirt,  or  any  ajjpendage  whatever, 
except  several  rows  of  white  buttons,  interlaced  with 
white  cord,  crossing  the  breast  in  a  fanciful  manner. — 
They  have  high  helmets,  and  their  broad  swords,  which 
are  sheathed  in  bright  steel  scabbards,  are  of  such  enor- 
mous length,  that  they  drag  behind  ihem  on  the  pave- 
ment as  they  walk,  unless  they  carry  them  in  their  hands, 
which  they  often  do.*  Besides  the  light  horse,  there  is 
in  Liverpool  at  pjresent,  a  regiment  or  two  of  heavy  cav- 
alry. If  the  Ibrmer  are  eminently  fitted  for  quickness  of 
movement,  these  are  equally  adapted,  by  their  weiglit 
and  firmness,  to  make  a  tremendous  charge.  The  horses 
arc  fill  very  large  and  heavy,  and  by  no  means  so  quick 
hitlieir  movements  as  the  others;  their  colour  is  black. — 

'"  July  1818. — I  am  not  quite  certain  whether  it  was  at  Liver- 
pool or  elsewhere  tliat  I  saw  cavalry,  with  steel  hiiiniets  ami  steel 
chains,  fallins;  from  the  helmet  down  the  shouKlers, — with  steel 
chains  passing  down  the  whole  length  of  the  thigh  and  leg  on  the 
outer  seam  of  the  jiantaloons,  and  attached  to  a  i)rojecting  edge 
of  cloth — with  steel  chains  fastening  tiie  steel  scabbanl  to  the  lio- 
dy,  and  with  a  kind  of  h(i\  of  slcel  smrouiidiisg  (he  hilt  of  the 
sword  and  covei'iiig  the  haiul  ;  (he  ohjecl  of  all  the^e  defences 
being  o'niouvly  to  render  liarmlcbS  the  ;trokc  of  an  er,emy'-'- 
^;^^'or^.f. 


rM.I.VN'.).    1101.I.  WD     \\[)    'fOlI    \\r>.  I    ' 

Th-' nitii  iiif  aNi)  laiL'f  iiiiil  I'liUN .  ;tiiil  iii;m\  iiMiinii  louL 
likr  \  III  i.iu^.  Till  ir  (l|■|•^^  is  iKiiIv  uiiili'.  \\;;':i  -Iimi; 
«(i,it>.  l  inir  iiiiiiom  i^  lif:iv\.  iiml  In  ni,).>s  tl..^  licvi' 
sv^  iii.i  ;iiiil  pi^Iol^.  I  in  li  ^mImut  rarii''s  a  f,ii  .iiiiii''.  'i  in' 
iiiii/./!f  Is  li\'<i  ill  ,1  >!;'■, itii  ill  tlif  >i(!.'  Ill  til''  Iii'Ktii^.  a.;d 
tli>    hiri  .  ii    |M-v(  s   ii\  i-r  till' Imr-'i  iiiaii's  ilii.'li. 

1  -ii;  [M.sc  ;||.'   |iri;ni|'i!  iivr  nl   tliis  ui   ijmiii.    is  In    nia- 
•  li   ill.'  -i.!i!iiT  to  art  nil  liiiit,  wiii'ii  his  Ihifx'  has  luni  n'i^- 

■■■'.  .1.   '■!    kiih  A   III    hauir. 

ill  r.i;  WW    \\-'\  i ; ;  \\n\-. 

Till'  ji'ilil"  la^^  111'  Ml-.  M.(iii\.  III.'  \iir  rii-au  (\uimi1. 
a.  Ml  It  1,1  :is  ::ici  s.  in  \\.,-  \  I  ,11-.  \  :  '  a  ainl  I  ,\  i  i  i  i  -i.  t\\  ■  i 
'itiii!\-    ia^i  iiiil!' 'ii~    111    \ii\    ii'ia-iit    ur;    111  :    ai  .',    amalhr 

•  lai'iii'ii  ii;l  1 1  •■iarril  a^  at  a  i.aiil.  rail' d  ihr  >  m.:\, 
\^  ':■  .-a  plan  I-  1  \ii  >  liiiiN  -ia;,iar  r .  llnl  .a  i  la'  i  llai  tw  i>. 
It'll!  I-    iii\    ~l  i_\    ill    LiMljMi  il.    I     laiM'    tlir    i:ia'll\    dI    \  i^- 

lif-i  lii^'il  aiini; -.  i!!i  !ri-  (1  i  lain  'v  I  1  \  iia  'aiili!''  n- 
■  'i  'i  li'  '..■•. 

Ill  a  1  ii\  -II  <  'iiiii;:'  i  ;  ;]  .'^  la\i  .  j)".l.  lia  -•'  r  laMi-li- 
:i' lit-  la  i-t  111-  i-iiii-i'!i  ii '1  a-  iii.iil.  laai  aalilr  in  lia'  in- 
■  ill  ji  nil  aai!  la  ai-  la  ili'-  iia!i\  iiia.ii-,  wimliiM  Ci-'-ai'-il 
.:.  I  iiaai'i  aii-1  <\  lia'iil. 

la  'lia    lii'Mi  h.i  .  aai    I  iijaail    HiiiaiuM-    nl'   lirr   .^i,aii\ 

•  :i,aiiiiiij  a  liliia:\   i>\  \, nanus  liti  r,i!  an-  ..mi  -i  ii  arr.   ainl 
!  .1  ji-  a.  .la  .'  1 .  .  ail.    will  1 1'  .lil  t  ;,•■  I  a  \\  -|.  i|.v  1  ^  a-al  !::ri  a- 

,  ,.  >  a  naU  nl  II'  .;i  .  ail-  |.|  HI  il  il,ili\  ii|iiiii  1:1'  t  'iiii--.  Inr 
ila-  Inr  |Hia<al  ni  siiii-n  ila-r-,  ami  nl  -.i'  li  ii  a  mis  ;is 
ill.  \    iaiii.'ia.-i'. 

'I'll  a   s;  I  .111,1  1.  lii'--i    jilaai's  .li  i-  hajhU  ihlrK  -lii'-j  .  ,,s  :>{- 
I'lriliuii  ,il    a  -j!  Mai',  a    \iru    nl  lii.'    ninsl   iiiijinii  iiil  mi-ai- 
.'■i.i  i-s  nt'  till-  ''n'la'rx  .    .'lai    Inth'-    (ii:-/.  a-    lh'-\     aai'    i!;.I 
V   a..  1.  ■' 


0^  A  JCit'RXAL  OF  TRAVELS  IN 

less  useful  and  agreeable;  for,  the  mere  man  of  biisiiies.-. 
finds  here  the  best  means  of  information,  and  the  man  of 
literature  can  retire  in  quiet  to  the  library,  where  the  li- 
brarian attends  to  hand  down  any  volume  that  is  wanted. 

Between  institutions  so  similar,  it  is  very  natural  and 
doubtless  it  is  best,  that  there  should  be  a  spirit  of  rivalry. 
I  know  not  how  much  is  to  be  imputed  to  tins,  but  I 
heard  it  contended  that  the  library  of  the  Athe\uenm  is 
much  superior  to  those  of  the  otiier  two.  This  appears 
not  impro!)a!)le,  for  the  library  of  the  Athenceum  was  se- 
lected i\v  Mr.  Roscoe  and  Dr.  Currie. 

Such  institutions  as  thes''  would  be  highly  useful  in  A- 
mevica,  and  most  of  our  large  commercial  towns  are  rich 
enough  to  found  and  sustain  them.*  Independently  of  the 
rational  amusement  which  they  aflord,  they  give  a  useful 
direction  to  the  public  taste,  and  allure  it  fro;n  objects 
which  are  either  frivolous  or  noxious. 

OFFICIAL  FORMALITIES. 

Mai/  6. — With  an  American,  a  fellov/  passenger,  who, 
like  mvseif,  wished  to  go  throucrh  every  formality  retjuir- 
ed  by  the  law"s  of  the  country,  that  we  might  be  fully  en- 
titled to  its  jtrotection,  wdiile  we  did  not  wish  to  shun  any 
reasonable  resjionsibility  for  the  correctness  of  our  con- 
duct, 1  waited  on  the  Mayor  of  the  city,  whose  duty  it 
was  to  countersign  the  collector's  certificate,  that  we 
micht  have  permission  to  go  up  to  the  alien  oilice  at  i.on- 

'  Boston,  ill  the  establislinictit  of  an  A!!:('ii;iMiiii  upon  tlic  plan 
of  that  iit  Liverpool,  has  !iad  the  honor  of  creating  the  fir.-l  iiistiln- 
tioJiofthis  kind  in  Atnorica,  and  from  the  ar(]nisili<)ns  ah-eady 
made,  as  well  as  from  the  well-known  intelligence  and  lil)erali(y 
of  (he  |)eople  of  Boston,  there  is  reason  to  cipect  tiiat  it  w  ill  dr> 
Tniicli  credit  to  this  country.     (1809.) 


I    M.I    \M>,    HULL  \M)    AM)   M  O  I  ,.  \  V,..  vi." 

I. HI.  It  v,cni-.  ilial  uc  iM^iil  to  ii,i\'  l  'I'''  m-!  in  iiic 
'."'an  (Ilk.  \\!m  woiilil  li.i.i'  rii,|nr>".l  d.ii"  <  rriiiicalf.-.  a? 
a  pii  liiiii.i.ii  \  vliji  ;«)  iihtai.iinir  tlw  ^aart;..n  nT  i!ir  cini  I 
!iia.;i>tr,ai' til  tlir  ciu  .  Ilut.i'l  t'l.iN  firiinn^Iaacf  we  Ufix' 
iuiniraiit.  a>  f\<T\  man.  ii;i  \i\^  !ii>t  airi'.al  in  a  loii-'iLru 
t'wanli's.  luii^t  iii'cc.saiiK  \«\  mi  iiiaiiv  \vv\  cuainiu:, 
linii'j>.  '  >iM'  >'rriir  was  (■••itaiiiU  xriii^il.  aa.i  i!>  aiaail'',! 
f'\<v\  iiiiliil'j'''U<'t/  ami  a'ni  wIik'Ii  (,i!i''ial  inluiinali'Mi  cn  ;i(l 
li,i\  <■  -u  (M~i!',  ailoi'ili'tl.  l.ci  \v<  liii  t  a  ii(  I'liiii.i,  M>  riuiv- 
an  i  i  n;ii  I  ill.;-,  th  It  \\cs1imiiII  I.:i\f  ifi/uird  ud  \i!',-  la- 
\  o:i!  i'll-  i:i"a  i;l  llii'  '."iMd  iiiaiiiii-i-  u\  i  .i.'jl^ii  i:ia,'i--iiali'^ , 
had  lint  (Mir  niiiii'i'^>ions  l)c<  11  miita  di<.lcl\  ciiiiiilriMil;  u 
h\  !;ii'  mi('()niia"M  iinl'tcu'' •>  •.!  tii  ■  Pus.,  (  In  1^  .Mi.  Si  dli- 
aiii.t'i  w  ini-r  (iliirc  \s>-  iMW  i-i-,irlrd  iii.i^r  ilu'  aM-|iii-f< 
(il  Mr.  ^I,liil■',  llic  \iiici  ic.ni  ("ii^iil.  Iv.  Ma'iiA  i-  ila 
aili'(C  ai'.d  ii-'lal  Iiiciid  dl  \  iii'i  icaiL-.  w'.io  \i-ii  !.i\fi- 
]iiH  1.  iiid  li.'  diH  >  !i^  Ki'icli  Imiioi.  Ii\"  hi-  '.:■  (id  M-ii-c,  iii- 
I'  I!  J I  !!(■(•  am!  pi  111  III  \  ,  \>,  !,'.  :■'  the  ^i  111  pile  it  \  an  i  iiii!(hi'  --. 
el  a;>  III  iT'iTs  ici  !■  ;■  h  11  •  ,;;  ;llv  acccj  >I,,M.-  Ii.  I'lc  !':!_'- 
h-'i.  .!>  Ill  ill  -    .  ■\:  a  (^  'iii;;r\  iii'  a. 

Mr.  Malliaia  iarmiii'  i  ii-~  I'l't  \y>-  iiai-l  h  ■  in  !,i  mica 
wii'iia  r  lai  II"  II  di\s  Irma  i!v  d  !!••  nl  'li-anl  lh''''!r.- 
iir  -  I'lidi  1 -■  :  lent.  awA  thi'ii!nM-  .id\:-i'd  i;-  I.i  hast  i' 
(hnii  .  \\i!''  1  \\'-  >'h'ul  I  !>•■  .Ill  I'lC  pdiiit  (i|  h  a\  iir_'  l.i\(r- 
pii.ih  \>  \\i'  la'cii'li-  I  I  )  ii'iinin  ^.  \ci.i!  (!a\>.  am!  i.. 
ii:i\(l  -hiwlv  t'l  I  ,iiii.iiiii.  \\i-  L:'.".'i''.  I'liaij.iii  i  wiiii  i!:!- 
a.Ki.-.. 

\N   I  N<.l,l--il   i;i;i.  \i\.   V  -1 


^lu!/  7.^-1   (ii\i'    liii'ii   pri--iiil    till-  iiiianai.'  al   .ni   lai, 
!i->li  'i.'    dsta-t.       The  li.lv    (it    ihi-  IniiiM.  h  ;.i    l.cc  i    -.v .  ,  :d 
\»jar>    111    Vni'.'ii:!.    an. I   ^lill    rtlaiiud    vn   imicli    |iaiii.i!ii\ 


64  A   JOURNAL    OP   TRAVELS   W 

for  the  country,  that  my  reception  was  such  as  to  makt 
me  feel  that  I  was  at  home  in  England. 

JMrs. pleasantly  remarked  that  I  had  not  beeu 

used  to  such  frugal  breakfasts  in  America,  and  indeed  it 
must  be  confessed,  that  to  a  northern  American,  wlio  is 
accustomed  to  see  aniraal  food  on  the  table  in  the  morn- 
ing, an  En.glish  breakfast  presents  no  very  promising 
prospect.  It  usually  consists  of  tea  and  a  little  bread  and 
butter.  A  boiled  egg  is  sometimes  added  after  morning 
exercise,  aiul,  very  rarely,  a  thin  slice  of  ham.  If  an 
American  is  surprised  at  the  frugality  of  an  Enghsii  break- 
fast, an  Englishman  is  astonished  at  seeing  beefsteaks,  or 
fish,  and  perliaps  buttled  'ader  on  an  American  table  nP 
!lie  same  meal." 

MI,  3 El"  M 

Liverpool  has  a  small  museum,  which  1  visited  this 
!norning.  it  is  not  extensive,  but  i,i  well  worth  seeing,  es- 
pecially on  account  of  n  collection  of  ancient  armour, 
such  as  was  worn  from  the  tiiiie  of  the  con(|ueror  down 
to  the  period  cf  E!iz;!!>eth.  This  is  a  remnant  of  an  age, 
which  though  barf'j'.rous,  :ind,  on  tiu'  whole,  wretched,  is 
connected  with  so  inuch  heroic  grandeur,  that  every  au- 
fhentic  vestige  of  it  nui-t  excite  a  strong  interest,  espe- 
'•ially  in  one  who've  ronritry  has  never  been  the  theatre  of 
a  siniiuir  state  of  things.  The  knights,  when  equipped 
for  battle,  were  so  cojnp!<'te!y  incased  in  iron,  that  it  is 
not  easy  to  conceive  how  they  conld  move  joint  or  limb, 
or  even  susi.iin  the  enormous  wi'iglit  of  their  arnioiu',  nor 

■  F  ;ini  seiisii/I,",  'However,  ihat  tlic-e  iianits  ai'c  wciirini;- aw n y  in 
fiur  larger  towns  and  it  i-  '.iccomiuj,'  inijioH'c  to  (^al  iiiiich  aiiiiiial 
food  in  thi^  iri'.iniit;;,'  ;  bin  they  ■.v:<:  ;;ti!l  uuiuiiiaircd  in  Uie  country. 


KN   .i  AVn.    lli">l.I.  WD    WD    Stori.  WD. 


run  one  l)»'  MirjuiNt'il  tli.'it  ixn  ovcrthiou  \\;is  so  iniicli 
lilt  aiird,  viiui'  it  must  liiivf  Ix'fii  ;m  Hrdn'UiN  ta->k  to  rise 
iiinlir  till'  ri'.:i(lin  ^<  ol  such  a  priNoii.  Hut  ilicsp  w  (  n 
null  w  lies.'  liiiil)s  li.iii  iiDi  luni  fiUTV.itt'il  1)\  liixnrv  :  ami 
till'  <'l»''j:aiU  (!i'iiiration>  ainl  t'r!cmiiial<'  solliirss  ol  maii\ 
iiio'liTH  ^•llllil•.••s  winil.l  ha\«'  hcra  tlu'ir  irst  ami  >-inni. 
'I  Ih'H'  w  a^  (Mir  >iii'ju!  ir  suit  of  aiiin'iii-:  or,  ju'iliap^.  i; 
>lioiii.l  latlirr  lir  rallcil  a  ruhi'.  Inr  it  was  siirji  in  fu  I.  Iw  ;n<^' 
a  11  mi  I  ill  ti'  III  1  w  ni  L  III  Miial!  I'liaiiiv.  su  linlxr,!  in  rvi  i  \  ,li- 
M''  la  a,  ilial  it  l.aini'il  an  iimi  \r-Iiiir.  wltirli  mi::lit  In'  iiiit 
"11  and  in  idf  to.  cm  Idm'  tin'  [n  i^oii  comimtilv .  wliilr  it 
uiiald  lia\i'  tliP  liinl.>  tin'  lih'  i-t\  ot"  lii-r  imition.  an  i  'If- 
iViid  tlifiii  Inmi  llif  (  !!( <-t  ni  (aitliii'.'' iii^tiuni' III  >,  a'tlaaijli 
nil!  Ii  mil  luiiiijvi.ins. 

\  tiiH'  [ia!Miaiiia  ol' Ka!iis;ati"  with  tlir  rml.ai  kaiii-ii  >.; 
iroii];-.  <.M\c  nil'  a  \f\\  miiiuto  ul  plfa^aat  i.  atn  taiuiiii'iit. 
"11  i!i\   \\  a\   to  \  ;-it 


I  HI.   \-^^  I.I  M  tn    liir.  i;i.!Mi 

III  tlll^  iii>iiiiiti.iii  llir  iijiaiidliU  Miiiii  arr  !•  laav' d,  pro- 
ti'i  III!  and  iiinH'ii  ti'd  in  ^nrli  ari^  a^  tin  \  aic  ca  aiilr  n: 
ji  ari;lii_'.  iiir  n!i;.ct  i>  lu  aliiird  tlnaii  ihr  iia  aiis  ol'  vnh- 
Si-Jcm  r  l'\  [)ri--"na!  imiii^tiA  ,  and  ol  ani'i-i  im-i.t  ni- 'cr  t'.r 
i.hiiiai  111  [II  1  j.i  IimI  lit;  kill '^s.      'Idirari-.  iiitif  jirai  lire  im" 

\\in<ll    I    -aw    till  III  i'll_ai_'i  d.   wnt'ul    ii  nn -r   ■.;i(  h  :is  irijiiij-.' 

?i,"  ni'iiiinmon  :'iaaiiar\,  and  uiinvr  i  !|n  i.ai  a;-  ran  In' 
.-.I,  liic:' w  i)v  im-  l"iirli  :  mh  ii  a-  kuiuiM.'.  w  i  a\  im".  and 
wiia;  I'L'  llniMM,  ai;'."it  '  tlif  \Mi'iiin.  aao  iii.ika:''  da-ki-ts 
,;ii.i  ■  ,-;•  .ia'iiiij  tlii  ail  a.  'i  in  ir  ja  i 'diiitinns  \t  i  ic  nimdi 
♦  i(  li.  1  ;ii  ii;  .'  1.  \\"ald  anajiai  i!  [iii--ililc  i;i>  \  -nniiid  lie. 
\ -.Miai  I'.a-  prii\r  llial  llii'  io--  "!  "nc  -i  n  ••  c.ni-iv 


06  A   JOURNAL    OF   TRAVELS   IN 

SO  active  a  cultivation  of  the  rest,  that  they  become  more- 
pe -lect  than  before.  How  else  can  we  account  for  thf* 
a(  lueness  of  hearing  which  enabled  a  particular  blind  man. 
by  means  of  the  echo  produced  by  his  whistling,  to  decide 
wlien  he  was  approaching  any  object  of  some  magnitude: 
or,  for  the  delicacy  of  touch  which  led  the  blind  Mr.  Jay* 
to  discover,  by  feeling,  the  place  where  the  two  pieces  of  aii 
ancient  mahogany  table  were  joined,  which  multitudes  for 
a  succession  of  years,  although  in  possession  of  all  their 
senses,  had  sought  in  vain  to  detect. 

la  the  institution  of  which  I  am  speaking,  those  who 
h'dve  a  taste  for  it,  learn  music  both  instrumental  and  vocal, 
that  they  may  be  able  to  obtain  their  bread  by  performing 
in  churches. 

"When  I  entered,  two  b'ind  boys  were  playing  on  the  or- 
gan and  piano,  and  at  my  request,  a  choir  of  both  sexes 
performed  a  piece — the  dying  Christian's  address  to  his 
sou.l, — which  they  sung  to  the  organ.  This  production,  in 
itself  ver\  solemn  and  interesting,  was  rendered  doubly  SO;^ 
by  the  associated  effect  produced  l)y  the  sightless  choir 
>vho  performed  it,  with  much  apparent  feeling.  Printed 
papers  were  distributed  about  tlie  rooms,  containing  reli- 
gious songs  apj)ropriate  to  the  situation  of  the  blind,  and 
holding  foith  to  tliem  such  consolations  as  must  be  pecu- 
liarlv  dear  to  those  for  whom  the  sun  rises  in  vain.  There 
>vas,  however,  in  most  of  them,  an  air  of  cheertulncssj 
which  served  to  enliven  a  scene  otherwise  very  gloomy. 
Tlie  charity  urn  at  the  door  contained  this  simple  inscrip- 

'Brotliri-of  Tohn  Jay  E'-q.  Uiip  (;o\e  iioi- i.f  New-York,  arc? 
frivov  txti'aordinui".  'c  Kna!i'.n<}  in  ih'-var  \~9t- 


iM.i wo,  iK'1.1  wn    \M(    ~(c,ii.\'wi.  <>; 

iioii,  \sliirli   iiiiist  product-'  a  ,>tMin'.'i'r  fllrct  <h\  t  sri\  iniiir' 
than  [li<.'  iii<,'>t  l.ilHunod  aildiivsto  llir  li  :lin.:>  : 

'•■  (trlrnMiln  r  \\\r  [,(.,•!■  I.liii.l  ' 

I  li'  M'  air   llif  iiivtiliiticiii-  uliicli  dn  liounur   [<  iiiuikiiu:. 
and  ^licw  till.'  acli\c  t  tl'nai  V  ul'(  liri>tiau  Iu'ihn  okiicc. 

\   M.W  i;   >HII' 

I'lM-  hiiii  i  w  liii  had  liriMitdit  inr  til  lliis  iiiiori'sliii'j:  j)hua  . 
'\  lilt  u  iih  ni''  til  a  hii'jf  <  ■miifa  >hi|).  a  thiiiL:'  uhirh  1  had 
al\\.i\s  \\i-.h'd  til  Mc\  with  a  ciuin^ilv  likr  that  uhicdi 
wuidd  haM  hd  iiif  tn  tlir  l'>a>tili'.  We  divriaiilcd  iiitu 
l\i<-  hold.  A\[i\  (  \,uiiiiiid  the  ci  lU  \slicri'  human  hi'inL'>  aif 
ciiuiiipd  iiadi  T  cirriiiiiNtaMrf^  whirh  cijii.dK  d'lN'Mi^t  d'-i-cii- 
rv  .iiid  NhiH'k  hiMiiaiiii_\ .  I!at  I  ui!l  U'lt  cnhtr,:'' nn  ,i  >nh- 
i'"t  uh'nh.  ihiiMidi  tiin-.  i>  awi'ulU  invi'Ucd  in  'jaih  and 
inliin\.  ''///■  nnnUiA.  ^nimliK  )rahin--i'I  li>  i -u  n  lilni- 
tit-,  -I  inds  di^jrari'd  in  ihi'  f\i  -  ul  mankind,  an  i  ciai- 
i!iiii!ii-d  ,ii  ihi'  liai  ill  1  |.a\  I'll,  l.if  iicini_'  at  I'lM'i'  111  li\i'  in 
I'lirsinu  nil  thi^  innn-tiiiu^  tiali'u  .  and  |iriim|it  tu  iiaaivc 
(•\ri"\  'Ml  '.:ii  111  im|iiii  It  d  \  Iriraii-.'  I  liid  iml  riuii'-  In  I  ai.- 
laiid  III  >»  I-  (  iiiini  a  ^hi  jl^  he '1  a  n^f  thia  <■  uair  liMiif  in  \niiT- 
ii  ,1.  hat  an  idiiil  liad  m-v  la  I  lin  i\\  n  mii'  in  iii\  ua\  hiMiUf. 
I  .i\  ii|iuiil  i>  ^A  (  y/.  r(  /■//  (A  '  y;  in  thi'  'Jiiih  "I  I  iir  -lax  r  li  ai  I.'. 
It  i-  ii'u\  jj'ii  an  d  w  ,i!i  nit  I  If  I  :!_^»a  ii<>>  than  <\  la  .  aaid  lllui- 
t  1 1 ;  i  i  ■  ^  air,  a  I  I  i  a >  n  1 1 1 1 n i  ■  n t ,  r 1 1  it  i  1 1 'i  mi  I h t  ■  \s  < -a  h  i i  w  i  i  a  1 1 
ha^  111  11)  L^aai''  I  lis  l!ii'  -liiji''^.  tin'  'jrii;ai-..  'ii'-  ti-,iis.  .iiid 
th.    h'li.Hl  ,a    \ni.i!iv. 

'I  hi  ]<■  \\\\\  hi'  a  d;i\  \\ia"i  ih'  >(•  tliin.^  --had  h--  U''h\  in 
111  a\  I'll  '. 

■  Isl'l  '1  [:[  1  i,,r.  ,a  .  ;,|  1,\  ,,,,,.  |.,\v-.  !,iu  ;!;;•;■,.  i-  .  ■•-.  n  U 
'  ••';,  \  i;  til"  I'lMi-iirr  i    ■  till  HI  ,1  lie  a  la;  >\-  '•:v\  <'if 


GS-  A   JOURNAL    OP    TRAVELS    l.\ 


No.  III.— LIVERPOOL. 

::^ketcli  of  the  town — tlie  Exchange— Streets — Public  buildings — 
Population — Pursuits — American  trade — Difficulties  of  the 
port — Guard  ship — Press  gangs — Impressment  grossly  inconsis- 
tent with  English  liberty — Docks — Mode  of  admitting  ships — 
Anecdote —  Dry  docks — Hackney  coaches — Anecdote — Genera! 
appearance  of  the  people. 

SKETCH  OF  LIVERPOOL. 

May  8. — Mrs.  ,  at  whose  liouse  I  liave   met  a 

degree  of  frankness  and  hospitality,  which,  if  a  fair  sam- 
ple of  English  domestic  maimers^  does  much  credit  to  the 
country,  informs  nie  that  the  re  is  an  interestiiig  circle  of 
literary  peo])le  Jiere  ;  but,  to  a  stranger,  Liverpool  ap- 
pears almost  exclusively  a  commercial  town.  Under  the 
guidance  oi  Mr.  Wells,  an  Knuhsh  gentleman  who  had 
visited  America,  I  have  been  to  the  Exchange,  the  great 
scene  of  the  commercial  transactions  of  the  second  tra- 
ding town  in  the  r'ritish  dominions.  The  Exchange 
stands  at  the  head  of  the  handsomest  street  in  Liverpool, 
and  hfis  jtronuf  claims  to  be  considered  an  clegaiU  build- 
ing. It  is.  however,  nnicli  to.)  small  for  tiie  commerce  of 
the  place,  and  for  this  reason  they  are  now  making  an  ex- 
tensive addition  to  it.  We  ascended  to  the  top  of  the 
building,  \xhere  we  Ii.id  a  good  virw  of  the  town. 

it  extends  between  two  and  three  miles  along  the  eastern 
bank  of  the  INIerscy.  The  coimtry  rises  as  it  recedes 
from  tiie  river,  so  that  a  part  of  the  town  is  built  on  the 
<ieciivity  of  the  hill,  '('lie  streets  contiguous  to  the  river, 
which  are  principally  on  level  ground,  are  narrow  and 
di-ty  ;  they  ;ire  crowded  with   carts  and   {)eo[)le,  and  in 


FNi.I.Wl).     Hi)|.l,\M)      \M)     M-(iT!.\NiJ. 


'"J 


'H)lii<'  til    tli'iii    ilic  \\;ut-lii)tisf^  .lie  ijiiiiiil    iiji  (ii   ;i    \<iy 

'.Ml    1 1    llrl-ht.        'I  ilf   Ntrt'i  Is   till    tllc   vlopt'  of  1 1  If    liiil    ,in     >ul- 

tit  iriiiK  wiclc  clean,  aiiil  liaiKisuinc,  hul  tlif  1h>iin.  >.,  a|. 
liH'M'jh  Mili^taiitial  ,uul  hiu'lils  nmiloitahli-,  arc  l'<ihi  all  v 
iii''lr'i  lilt  ill  their  fxtnior  a|)|)r,iraiu't'.  'I'ln'\  are  coii- 
-nuitcii  witii  liiicks  ol  a  ilii>kv  vt'llnw  (-(ilour.  nliscm  ctl 
h\  till'  ilii-t  uinl  .v.iiiikr  DiCoal  :  the  hrifkN  ai<'  licit  pMli-li- 
•  '<!,  iiiit  lia\r  a  ilfjii'f  ol'  nui'jlinrNN.  u  hicli  makt-  llic  tnu  ii 
•rij  •  ir  'i'ai<'\uiat  lu.lc  imi  u  t-  1  dk  in  \  ,iiii  Inr  (In-  iii,  hly 
Iiai-'ii  li  -li:  la<-«'  v.  liii  li  i^  ju  I'^fiUiii  1)\  tin'  liiu^i  Iki'i-m'-  "I 
^<  \\-\  'U  k.  PI  ill  id  Ijiliia.  and  I'>n>Ii)ii.  tn  u  liirli  idu  ii-  I  .iv- 
.-rpiw,!    1>   iiil.iioriii    till'   liiaiil\    <'(   il-  pi  i\.itr    liiiiliii  iLl'^. 

I'm  pii'ilic  hiillirai-j^  are,  li.)\\c\  it,  wiih  tew  i'M  i  pii'ius, 
rlr'jaat.  '1  h-\  an-  ciin^truilcil  nl  la-wii  --ami  ^tniu  ,  lar- 
ni-iii'l    li\  a   ijaarrs  iiniii''ilialil\  (■ii!iti'jnciii>   i<i  ilir  tuuii. 

I'li-rr  are  ^e\t'ral  lianiNnme  eliiirelieN,  voiiie  til  \vliiili 
iia\e  l.'i'i\  v|iires  III  stmie,  aiiil  there  i^  a  iiiaLarilieeiii  mie, 
Willi    1  \.i-t  .iuine,  iiiii.!'  lle,|  ami  iiaiiieil  alter  M.  I'aiir>  at 

I..M,.'..|I. 

1 ,1\  irpii'ij  i-,  ^aiil  III  ciiinaiii  almul  ei'jlit\  thdii^aii'l  iil- 
haiill  in!^.*  wllti  aie  alllll)^I  e\clM^i\  el  y  eliij'l'iyd  ill  e, nu- 
ll ei  ce.  and  III'  \  ai  liia>  llll^llle^^|  >  i:nim  dial'Kd  aiiH  i  le  ' 
\siili    ii  ;    liir.   aliiniujli  ihe  tnwii  i>  im!    de>tiliile  nl   niaai:- 

iai  lai '  ^^.  -t  ii!  ill  i-M    ai  ill  li  ,  which  are  ^c.id  m    \  im  i  a  a 

mid' 1  die  'jc  ii<  1  il  ii.caic  cii  1 .1\  I  I  p'Mil  u  ai  ••-.  ai  e  In  nil  iit  to 
till-  jcci  I   h  'iiii  Malldi   ;•  !:iii  .   ml  diic-i    iiuca  mi    eo  a  ith  s. 

<  >.;  lie  liil!  h  II  k  Hi  ill.  l.i\ui  all  a  iiimili'  i  c.;  Iieaiililnl 
vlti.aH.mv.  Tia-  c'  i,.  icali"'  hiL''ii^l  Jiait  ci;  the  hill,,i 
place  eai.d  tia  Ni.eim,  vv  ia  l  '  l!;'ii  i-  ,i  paMir  L^aideii, 
VI.  all  sea  III  iir  I  111     _  I  a\  I  1  wall--,  a  i;.  i  ia  li  -ml  cil  lii  ■  .jai  cl.  a  i  ■, 


1-!.1 


7'0  A    JOURNAL    OF    TRAVELS    IN  j 

a  wide  gravelled  area,  used  as  a  promenade,  which  coni- 
mands  a  fine  view  of  th(>  city,  the  river,  the  opposite  coun- 
t}'  ol'  Cheshire,  and  the  distant  mountains  of  Wales.  The 
city  is  surrounded  by  lofty  wind-mills,  which  are  among 
the  first  objects  that  strike  a  stranger  coming  in  trom  sea.j 
On  the  hills  are  a  multitude  of  signal  poles  ; — each  prin-- 
cipal  merchant  has  one, by  which  a  ship's  name  is  announc- 
ed some  hours  before  she  arrives  in  the  river.  There  is  a 
very  great  number  of  vessels,  and  among  these  the  Ameri- 
can flag  is  very  freqiien'..  The  American  trade  to  this 
port  is  probably  greater  than  to  all  the  other  ports  of 
Britain  :  it  has  be(  ome  l!!u:h]y  important  to  the  merchants 
of  Liverpool,  and  oi'tliisthe^  are  sufiit  iently  aware. 

The  port  is  diilicnlt  of  access.  The  titles  ri^e  from  12 
to  30  fe<'t,  and,  at  h  w  water,  a  great  part  of  the  road  is 
bare.  The  currems  are  therefore  ver\  rapid,  and  it  is  on- 
ly at  rising  water  thai  ships  C9n  get  in  ',  there  are,  besides, 
so  many  shoals  and  sand  banks,  that,  even  then,  it  req'iires 
all  llie  skill  of  the  ]>ilots  to  brine  a  vessel  up  to  the  town. 

When  a  sliip  comes  round  llo]\  head,  and  a  gale  imme- 
dratciy  succeeds,  blowing  in  towards  the  sliore,  she  is  in 
damjer  of  liein^r  lost.  These  circumstances  form  the  prin- 
cipal defenceof  the  town  against  an  attack  by  sea.  and  are 
much  more  important  to  its  security,  than  a  Ijatury  of 
heavv  cannon  at  the  lower  part  of  the  town,  and  a  large 
Guard  ship  which  is  moored  in  the  ciiannel.  Ahhough 
stationed  there  ostensibly  for  the  defence  of  the  town,  the 
most  interesting  object  of  the  government  is  to  afford  a 
flf;ating  prison  for  the  reception  of  impressed  setmien. 
Tliere  are  press  c;anifs  now  aljout  laverpool,  and  impress^ 
nieuls  daily  happen.  J  saw  a  sailor  firagged  olf  a  i'cw 
•neninLis  since  :  he  \\as  walking  witli  one  who  appeared  t(? 


f..Nt.tAM>,    Mi.l.!.AM»    ANl>    T(VrL\M>. 


U 


i;o  a  \M)m,in  <if  the  town,  aii<l  In;  ol  CDur^c  u:i>  ((iiisiilrri  li 
;iN  a  niDjjt  r  (il)|irt  ol  iiii|irf-.Miii'iit  :  loi'  il  i>  tlic  uiiiloiiii 
jii.n  Itii  oltlir  |)i«>s  LMii::>  tn  Iikf  all  ulioin  tli'-s  linl  in 
Mirli  >oi  i.t\.  :iiiii  all  «lio  ail'  i'iiL'aL'<'il  in  nijlit  hiaw  1- ami 
arii'.iLtn  rcvtls,  not  that  the  |irt>>  L'^mu^  lia\r  any  pnulinr 
snlii  ituilr  U'Y  the  prcsfrvatinn  <>(  i;i/iifl  inordh.  \i\\\  liri-anM- 
.-ii<!i  lliiiiL:>  atl'iMi  ^onitnsiiat  nl'  a  pif^trM  r,.|-  a  |ir;r-lirr 
\\lil<'!i  \i>i!,it.'s  (N]iiallv  thr  law^  nt  natural  lilnits.  ,iuil  tlir 
pi  inrijilfv  111'  l.ii'jli^h  iVi't'.liMii.  1  'jrani  it  i>  iii-.-.  v,;i- 
i\.  Ii!!t  II  i>  ^tiU  ;r.)-vl\  iiii'ii-l.  an. I  \n-|.'  <  i  .!:-i^;rtii\  yc- 
Lai  lir.l  w  1 1  I'll  ii  iiiiri  irii^  \\\\\i  Mili'  Hial  pi  'n  \  .  tin  I'  I'.l'-Ii 
(■i)i;;ls  ..fil-lirr  WnilM  ■'la'll  prmilpl  aii.l  r,,li  iiilic--.  Nil 
iImi,',!  I'M  r\  I'liuiiliA  l)a■^  a  !a'l  li.'lu  In  tin'  -i  i\ic.>  nf  !'< 
(■!''/.'  '1^.  Iiiit   this    ri'  111    -lii'ilil    hf   rnrnrri'il    arn. i.!i:i::    in 

IK'  p:':n<'lpl>'  nt' iinpai  iial  ^i  li-rtlMii.  wliirli  WiUijil  p'.irr 
fV'  1 A  man  nii'li  i-  llir  sauir  ili-jiii'  nl'  Ii.il>ilii\.  I'lrjliui! 
Ui'iili  ri^i  ill  r.iiiv.  ^luMiM  l!ir  nii!itai\  inipir^v  im  l!ir  ar- 
ni;.  ,  riii/.ni^  nl'  ■  \  ii\  rank,  in  mi  tin'  fn'liU.  tin'  v;  ■rri^.  iiihI 
ll;i'  pii'  iir  \-<>:\^\  Int.  Ill'-  partiriil  II  rl.ivs  .  it  ;:i,ii  -rr.w 
to  i'l'  .il  .li.i.  .;iril  l)\  -oriiiv  .  ;iii  1  1 1 '!  i  II 1 1  III  v|ii  1 1  t.)  pi  rpii';a! 
i!;ipi  i>niii;;i  Mt,  .iii.i  ;i  -la\i'r\.  wliirli.  tlioiivli  In  nininMlilc. 
'ilt^  IiM'in  "fi'  Il  iiiii  DiD^t  lliiii'j^  w  liicli  iin  II  ImM  iliar. 

fll  I  .f.  I  I  piMil.  ;|^  iiii.'lit  In-  cxj.irtiil.  \  iin  lici  n  .^aiinrs 
air   'illir,   ili|p|rsM.,|,    |i;it    l||,-\    ||>i|,il|\    i_r,  I    r|f:ir  l!'l'ir\    ll.l\C 

^ifi.t' rl :.  av.  w  iiii'li  ;iii.  In'fi  iiinii'  ii'jaiiiiij  li;i.i  at  vi-n. 
f  In'  pr  -■;  ■_;iiv>  liavi'a  r- :nli  /,\  oils  ,  ,ii  vh,,:,-.  f,,  \\!:;rh 
la'  ■■  '.':  ai.'  tin  ir  \  iitiiii-.  a-  I'l -I  a-  tli'"^  fai'l  t'n  a:  :  I'li-v 
lia'.i  I  >  -Til  ,-s,  ;i!miiiI  ill.'  iiiittir.  In!  ilir  pi  M'l'  is  rfiniir- 
•'1  <'o;'.spii  inn;,  \,\  :i  l,it'_'i-  11  i\  il  ll.rj  liiiin_'  out  ;if  a  uin- 
ilou  .  «  )lli'  u  III  ill  I  si||,  ,,.,<,•  ill,,  I  p,,piil;ii  \rii  j.Miirr  u  o.il  I 
!)»'  r-vriliil  1)_\  li|is  II  iuiiipli.il.l  'llspl.iv  ofllii'  irfi.iIi'V  I.:' 
;>'i'.'.'r    tlMluplilij     on    Ji'Tion.il    lilni  I\-.  bat.    I    Inli.M     |';r 


f2  A   JOURNAL   OP   TK'^VHLS   INf 

rendezvous  is  not  often  attacked,  although  it  probably 
would  be,  were  it  not  for  the  strong  protection  of  govern- 
ment. 

THE  DOCKS. 

The  ships  are  not  here,  as  with  us,  stationed  along  the 
wharves,  for  at  low  water,  the  foundations  of  these  struc- 
tures are  in  view,  and  ships  moored  by  their  sides,  would 
be  left  on  the  bare  sand  twice  in  twenty-four  hours,  with 
no  small  exposure  to  injury  from  the  rapid  influx  and  re- 
treat of  the  water,  and  the  great  rise  and  fall  which  the 
ship  must  sustain  by  such  powerful  tides  as  flow  in  this 
channel. 

To  obviate  these,  and  other  inconveniences,  the  ships 
are  hauled  into  d(Kks,  whei'e  tliey  lie  in  j)erfect  security. 

These  docks,  of  which  tlierc  are  six  wet,  besides  several 
dry  ones,  are  among  tlie  princ'qial  curiosities  of  the  place. 

In  order  to  their  construction,  a  large  area  on  the  bank 
of  the  river  is  excavated  to  a  sufficient  deptii,  by  digging. 
It  has  a  rectangular  form,  and  is  enclosed  by  very  dee]), 
wido,  and  strong  walls  of  massy  Iscwn  stone,  sunk  below 
the  bottom  of  tlie  cavity,  and  rising  to  the  surface  of  the 
groini  !.  I'here  is  an  ojjening  at  the  bason  sufficiently 
wide  to  admit  one  shij)  at  a  time.  This  opening  is  closed 
by  gates,  which  are  liinged  upon  opposite  sidrs  of  tlie  ca-  , 
nal,  and,  when  shut,  they  meet  at  an  angle  saOiciently  j 
acute  to  enable  them  to  sustain  the  pressure  of  the  water  ia 
the  bason.  In  short,  they  are  constructed  just  as  locks 
are  in  canals.  They  open  inward,  and  their  operation  is 
very  intelligible. 

When  the  tide  rises  so  as  to  bring  the  Mater  in  the  riv- 
<n'  to  til''  :-ame  level  with  that  in  the  bason,  the  gales  either 


VNCL.Wn.     1!'''II.\M)      \N[)     StOTI.ANU.  !■■ 

ij[ifn  "il'  til- Ir  ci\Mi  arcind,  I  r  family  \iilil  t,i  a  iiu'dnat' 
jHuviT  «\- Ttt'.i  upon  tlii'iii.  Ill''  uatiiih.  11  tlou  .  iiulis- 
1 1  luiiiiatrlv  ill  tilt'  river  aii'l  ii.i-.-iu  and  it  is  i^i  iliat  iiuir. 
HI  mar  it.  that  ships  iiiiisl  |Ki>s  in  uv  out  :  I<ir  \\lirii  tli<- 
till''  Iurii>,  till'  furit'iu,  iiou  MttiiiL"  outwari's.  (■li>>c-  tln' 
gall's  ; — thr  watrr  ill  tli''  hasnii  is  ritaiiin!.  aud  tin-  cliaii- 
:ii  I  li  a(iiir_'  tn  it  lircoiin's  tiitiril\  ilry.  Iln'  slii[,>  iii  the 
•  !m(!^  reituiii  allnat.  rind  the  L'Hti  s  ^llstaill  tin  eniiriinnis 
\\i  ijlit  I'l  tuiiiiv  Ii-i  t  ul'  \satiT.  (ileal  liiiiiniss  i^  there- 
r,,re  lire. -^:ir\  in  III.'  -imetuie  .i|'  the  walls  ami  ul  every 
part.      \\  hen  there  i-,   tini    iiim'li  uater    in  tin'  dneks.   tin- 

<  \ce>>   i-,   let   nut    \)\    Ilieails   iil'   \eiH    lleles.  aud   It   is  ohvious 

that  the  \\  hole  ran  he.  di.iw  n  oil  in  this  man  mi  u  li«ii  it  i-- 
i',ei'es>ai  V.  The  lop  oi'  thr  •_:ates  i>  lonned  iiiio  a  too: 
luiii'je.  and  a  hrii'.'ji'  lor  carls  i^  thrown  o\er  [In-  rai.a!. 
■iinewhat  r.eanr  the  onti  r  ha-oii.  \',^  im  iiisol  iiiarhiiie- 
•\    th!>  last   hiid'je    is    .sumi':  oiV  to   oiii'    side,  v.li    a    ships 

No  -111  id  iiK  o,i\  I  ai.-nii  is  .ii>!,i;nid  l>\  siiip-  m  ••■iiin'j 
ato  (a  oiitord.iik:  ihcA  a:e  son;,  limes  o!.!i-rd  io\,,iil 
■•\' III  da  %  s  (iih.  r  ;or  ihr  sjii ';ii_'  lidi  s  nr  ii,;  •ii;:i|-  im  ii -. 
!  he  (  )ntai  io  w  id  hise  lo  \\  ;!il  1.  11  i]a\  s  lioui  iin'  lime  ol 
ill';  ;ilii\'d.  a>  s';,-  iliiw-  \,,.t  iii;;eh  N'vati  a'  lor  l!|i  ordil.ar'v 
li''i's.  ;md  laii.i  liiil'i  loll'  wait  tor  the  i;.  \t  spiile'  tide. 
(  oiiiiii,,.!  ,|;ips  era  I'li'i  r  iiow.  hut  lia'  <  >iilario'  is  di.'  lni;- 
'     \i!i'  ;i' :ia  -l;;;i  di  tiir  l.i\ei:iool  iiaih'.       Mai  !i  dijas  is 


1    •    iiii'.i,i"   a.\i;-  ri!:u-iii.|   t'l   \i:i';iiM      in    'Uii':  on:    (•: 

I  '.      '.■        ;  111  K  llii-  jr.  .iiii'i  .    ti.'   liili    i'  a  '  •  .  nil  :!.•■  -iiid.  .aai  fjr- 

■    'V  ils   ';  !■!•  ;;.      i,,-    !.;i.'..-    i  ■.   '.it   i.'.wi  v.ilj.t.    ;ii    1    tlir    l'..>- 

..  •  'i  iiif  I  liii'        M'li  r  li.iiJ.:  ill  tiiiii  ■!  M-M  ;-.,!  t;;iM.M,-.  ami  ic|M.r 

il  .ai  iii^a  ,iioi:-  •  \i"'ii-i',    -l.t;  |.;a  (.)    -i  ,i.  .arl   w  ,i  -    la  \  i  ■   ':.,  ■,- ■' 

lU    llliH'i' 


/4  A    JuLllNAL    OF    TIIAVI'JLS    I.N' 

said  to  b(;  occasioned  at  the  king's  and  queen's  docks,  03, 
the  captious  and  tyrannical  disposition  of  the  dock  mas- 
ter.    Last  winter,  an  American  captain,  pretending  to 
shake  hands  with  this  dock  master,  and,  at  the  same  time, 
affecting  to  stumble  over  something,  pulled  him  off,  along 
with  himself,  into  the  water.     lie  did  not  value  a  fall  of 
ten  feet,  with  some  chance  of  drowning,  compared  with  tlie 
pleasure  of  taking  this  kind  of  vengeance  on  a  man  who 
was  cordially  hated  by  all  the  American  masters  of  ships. 
The  dry  docks  are  intended  solely  for  the  purpose  of 
repairing  the  shi])'s  bottom.     They  are  nothing  more  than 
long  C!nd  deep  canals,  whose  sides  art?  Ibrnied  into  sloping 
steps,  like  stairs,  and  as  the  objeoc  is  to  exclude  the  waiter, 
the  gates  open  outwards,     ^\llen  a  ship  is  to  be  admitted, 
rlie  gates  are  thrown  open  at  low  water,  and  she  comes  in 
wiih  the  flood.     The  dock  is  wide  enough  to  hold  only 
one  ship  in  its  breadth,  but  it  is  so  long,  that  several  can 
come  ill,   in  succession.     After  they  have  arrived  at  their 
places,  they  are  moored,  and  when  the  tide  retires,  they 
are  ku  dry,  resting  upon  the  bottom  of  the  dock,  and  sus- 
tained in  a  perpendicular  position  by  means  of  proj)S.  The 
gates  being  closed  at  low  water,  the  next  tide  is  excluded, 
und  thus  the  workmen  are  ailniitted  with  safety  and  con- 
venience cpiiie  down  to  the  keel. 

The  same  bridges  are  used  here  as  across  the  entrance 
tif  the  wet  docks. 

Tlie  ciiannel  of  the  river  Mersey  affords  safe  anchorage 
tor  shi|)s  of  any  burden. 

In  i/iverj)0(,l  the  prop<*rtion  of  women  is  much  greater 
tisan  of  men.  especially  in  the  lower  orders  of  society.  The 
men  oi'  tliis  descrijJtion  aie  usually  in  the  army  or  navy, 


r\i.l,vvn,   HKI.I.AND     \M)    -<(ri;   VM).  ,  ,. 

n\A   innltituiliN   of  ilio   iVnialts   nrt^   iiiaiiit.-nr,!  ,;   ')v    tin  i. 


I  .iMTpoitl  i^  utll  [iro\i«lr(l  \\'n\\  liackiu  y  cdiiclif";.  'I'lii^ 
s  ;:ii  .iccomiiKulation  wliiiii  i<  fiiiiii«iill_\  iivcrul  to  a  stran- 
<ji  1.  luit  Ini  uliicli  lie  will  loiiuiKml}  p;i\  Iiii:li(  r  tt.an  \\\r 
riii/ciis.  'I'll.' Inst  tiinc  that  I  had  occasion  to  use  a  en, uli. 
sii-jicctiii'i  llial  the  chari^c  \va->  cm-onIvc.  I  tu.ik  ilouii  in 
ni\  [)(n  kt't  book,  tli«' nuinlKT  t>l"  thr  coai'h  i'Jul  ihc  o\\  iici '< 
;iainc.  .iiul  iii<'i.  u  ithoiil  makiiiu  any  olocctiMn  to  thr  [nice. 
piiM  iiicii  till'  r-oachmaa  a  hanilliil  of  >l.i!li;r.">.  ami  told 
liiiii  ;o  takf  u  hit  hr  thou'jht  propiT.  i  !■■■!• 'liu' d  tnkiii'i 
aii\  iliinii.  Iiiit  said  lie  woald  'jo  and  coi.-ah  his  niasicr  ; 
!ir  I  itiiiiicd  ill  a  I'-'A  uiiiiut's-.  and  t'iok  [w:  shilliii'j'^  in- 
strad  of  tluof  which  lie  had  asked  at  first.  I'lic  foiinci 
sum  was  the  h-al  lee,  and  tho  extra  sdillin'j  ua'<  i  tax 
wha  li  he  was  le\  \  iiej  on  ine  as  a  stiani:er  in  the  cuini;!  \  . 
'I  ii!s  1 1  ill  in 'J  anecdote  is  {,{  no  other  inijioitanc<-  than  as  .in 
itisi.nne  111  tie  conunon  disjHi-itiji,  iii  i.npesc  dn  stuuM'crs 
and  .if  the  se!i,r  ,ii  le- [ in n^i  1  li li I_\  i.i  the  laws  ;ind  liar  ol 
pinnsiinn  iit  inanilesled  in  the  present  i  n>i\ 

'I  ill-  l: en e.  a  I  a|ipearaiice  ot'dic  pupiilaliori  of  I  .iveriiool. 
Is  cxirein'ly  like  i!iat  o|  (cir  nwn  i  oiM,tj\  i.n  ii  in  oiii  lai'^e 
<ilies.  l.Mis  liod\  heif  talks,  dri^Ms  ,111-:  .11  (s,  and  e\  eiv 
thin'    lo.iivs.   M)  iiuMJi  1  ke    \nieiica.  thai    I  caw  hardh    iie- 


•>e    i 


h  t\e    ai  ; MiiN   CI  ii-seil    tin 


Most    ol    thost 


\^  nil    v\  ho;n   I   lia\e    hllheilii   Ciin\ersrd.   lK»\e  been  .  Ntiellie- 

i^  '  i\  il  .in!  kind,  .uid  tin  n-  is  >caic.  Is  .u\  appieciable  lif- 
I'ereiici-  beluri  II  ns  and  the  people  here,  eili.i  r  in  the  inaii- 
nei  111   nialiei  I, I  eons .  rsaii.in. 

Iiidi  ed  I  ,i\  I  rponl  IS  in  a  si  nsr  MeNiifn  d  w  i;li  \  nn  i  ica. 
^"  '""list  ml  a  m|  iniiiii  lie  i.  t'a  m'eti  ()i,i  se.  and  mk  h  tnnlti- 
"',|,  .  ^.a    \in.T!  ■  111-  ri  >iiit  tn  th;-  M.rl. 


r6  A   JOURNAL    OP   TRAVELS    IN 

The  American  trade  is  very  important  to  Liverpool, 
and  scarcely  a  week  elapses  without  communicatioB  witb 
^>w-\(erk. 


^o.  IV.— LIVERPOOL. 

ITngli;!!  difincrs — Great  men  of  the  city — Wine  every  where  u 
^heme — Coldness  of  manners — Allerton  Hall — Botaiiical  Gar- 
<ien — Mr.  Roscoe — His  usual  retirement — A  transport  ship — A 
Quarry — Duelling  ground — Etivirous  of  Liverpool — St.  Domin- 
go— Siniiular  compliment  to  the  Prince  of  Gloucester — An 
Knglish  hotel — Servants — Wide  difference  between  them  and 
American  servants — Tlie  cause  of  it — A  French  servant. 

i:nglish  dlnners. 

I  DINED  to-day  at  Birciifield,  a  beautiful  seat  in  the 
suburbs  of  Liverpool,  formerly  the  residence  of  Mr.  Ros- 
i()C.  The  house  is  surrounded  by  highly  improved 
grounds,  ornamented  witii  gra%el  walks,  winding  with 
many  turns  among  groves  and  green  fiehis,  for  the  ver- 
dure has  now  become  general  in  this  part  of  England* 
Mr.  Ewart,  ti.e  {possessor  of  this  mansion,  has  been  re- 
cently elected  a  bailiff  of  Liverpool,  and,  on  this  occasion, 
gave  a  kind  of  ofTicial  diimer  to  the  mayor,  the  aldermen, 
(he  town  clerk,  and  other  ollicers  of  the  city.  A  pre- 
vious introduction  to  their  host,  gave  me  the  honour  of 
dining  with  these  gentlemen,  and  several  others  of  the 
first  citizens.  There  were  two  gentlemen  at  table,  who, 
when  the  income  tax  was  laid,  gave  in  their  incomes  at 
{wenty  thousand  })0unds  sterling,  or  alujost  ninety  then- 
*^and  dolhi.rs. 


KNi.I.Wn,  HOLLAND  AND  SCOTLWn.  (  , 

Our  tah!<-  \v;is  londcii  \\illi  luxiirit  s  aiu!  spleiidiiily 
Uinii>li' li.  'Vhv  arraiiL'«MBcnts  luiwevfr  ditl'trcd  xny 
iiltir  Imiu  t!i<»('  which  arc  usual  at  tlir  tal)!i's  t)(  pcoiilc 
of  rcirtuiu-  in  Auicricu.  'HuTf  was  (uif  cu^tnni  uhic'i 
was  whollv  iii'w  to  lilt'.  'I  lu-  <itMitlt'in<Mi  <  liallniijt'il  i  a(  li 
othtT  to  (iriuk  ah'.  iu>t  as  is  doiu'.  t  vi'iy  u  h<  if  tlsc  with 
will!',  at  ih''  s.iini-  tiiiu>  wishir.'i  hi  ahh  ;  this  wus  in<:(!\ 
iiiiiii:iuctui-v  to  thr  drinkiiiL'  nl   wiiir.* 

'I'iif  \)i->\  was  not  sii|)tiiiw  to  ihi'  hc-t  in  oiir  iiiar- 
k't>  :  the  applrs  were  hani  ami  iiisipiil.  h(\iii'j  noiim'- 
uhat  ih''  la-tf  oi'  raw  Iiirn''[is.  and  \\\<'v  w  .i-^  !io  artii-!f 
Ixiti  |-  than  till'  (■(H-ii'sponilfiit  pr.'d.;.  tioi'.s  ol  Aiiui';.;;. 
(■\<-.-|it  tht'  a!r. 

I  ilf     lliaillKTS   ot    till'     'Ji'llth'MH'n    \\'\r  m:'.s-;i;;!::i!I\     l!i' 

saiiii'wilh    thn^c    of   >imilai"    A  niri  icaii  circh'-.       "^1»-;    c; 

the   siiSjcit^'   ol'    coMMrs  ilioil     WflT    So     |H  rv,,;Kil   aud    !■"•;■!. 

that  a  >traii'.'''i'  coiiM  not  hr  snpjiiw.-ij  to  \)r  inloiip.t  it 
riii'ci'iniii','  ihfiii.  ;ni  1  laiiiM  sc.nciK  vp,  d^  upon  ihfui 
Ullhoiit  ilidilicarv,  hid  he  (Ii;iil<'''d  to  po^-'-v-  ^Uliiiafn, 
lUlol  iiialloii.  Tiir  oiil\  topii-s  whirh  Ci  llld  '••■  rullsiiirl't  ij 
as  ai  all  •j'ciirii!.  wnr  \]u-  all-.'-d  p-'cn!::  :;  ,.f  L;.id 
^i^Mll(•.  ,ind  ll:.'  iiixi  incthiid  of  lipt  iiir.j  w'.r-. 

l'oa(o,lhtr\  nr,,;!|.;.  ,it  l||i>(li-!-.  all  i's  Ir -..  ,|:  ;■<■(  - 
'Ol  ihr  d.  ,  I.I  ,•  of  il-  lih.Tlii's.  it  is  ll"!  -I  i;,:.  thai  tlu 
'   '!  IIH  f  topn     -.1 ;,,;,;,  I    ;ippf  ;ir    II  ;dd\     i  1 : 1  pi  >1  ' .  il ,  t . 

i'  1  n:  IS  !..'':■•  lioin  llic  I'n  (jijni.-'.  ;m:,'  i  ra>-tntsv 
-•' '\i\  \^\:\'U  !  h-.i  this  topic  mciitio!it  .',  thr  (diai-.'cs 
,  ,MiM>t  I. Old  \Ii  !\  iih'  c\.i:o  ;i  l,"_h  d<MiT  if  iilol.s!,!: 
■h''     p    I  sri.t     ?M.>Iil,;   t.        <  hjr     •  I  !lll"l!l  111,     111     piiiicalu-.     I 

ha\r    hi  aid,  ..i'r|,:i.ii  ,,:i  lin^  snhj,  ,-i  \\  nh  ,in  !i  o\  n  \\  1,.  !-a- 


■  i  'I'  -  [■nil  til f  :  I  .i:'\   c;!!!  r  i  '.,•.■  >■  in  V 


78  A   JOURNAL   OF   TRAVELS   IN 

inf^  vehomencc,  and  with  such  an  appearance  of  the 
tUepest  concern  for  the  safety  of  the  piibhc  resources, 
and  the  condign  punishment  of  the  deadly  sm  of  pecula- 
tiun,  that  T  was  on  the  point  of  setting  him  dowai  for  a 
jj-'itriot  of  the  first  order,  but,  unfortunately  I  soon  learned 
that  he  was  at  that  time  a  candidate  for  a  scat  in  par- 
lianient. 

As  to  the  ripening  of  wine,  this  is  a  subject  of  univer- 
■^al  interest  amona:  convivial  men,  and  forms  a  standing 
topic  of  discussion,  on  both  sides  of  the  Atlantic,  in  those 
circles  where  aljundaut  drinking  gives  brilliancy  to  wit, 
and  ardor  to  patriotism  ;  and  while  the  faculties  are  thus 
sharpened,  it  is  no  doubt  very  natural  to  descant  on  the 
properties  of  this  great  cheerer  of  the  heart  of  man. 
Tiie  bottle  went  round  r?.pidly,  and  continued  its  circuit 
for  several  hours.  Port,  (llaret,  and  Madeira,  were  the 
wines  ;  the  two  latter  are  very  expensive  in  this  country, 
and  Port  costs  nearly  as  much  in  England  as  Madeira 
does  with  us.  The  Madeira  is  not  so  good  as  that  which 
has  been  ripened  in  our  warmer  climates,  but  the  Port 
is  better,  and  is  the  only  wine  generally  used  in  Great- 
Britain.  Their  intimate  connection  with  Portugal  gives 
it  to  them  in  greater  purity  than  we  commonly  obtain  it, 
for  it  is  not  'lifficult  to  imitate  the  astringent  taste  and 
purple  colour  of  t'lis  wine,  so  that  it  is  adulterated  and 
even  niairuractnred  with  considerable  facility.  I'efore 
dismissing  this  dinner.  T  outrht  to  ol)serve  that  the  reserve 
and  <-ol(lnoss  which  marked  the  mauners  of  most  of  the 
gentlemen  were  strongly  contrasted  with  the  polite  and 
uttentive  hospitality  of  our  host,  (a  Scotchman.)  who 
suffered  no  on<'  ot"  his  c:u(>sts  to  r(Mii;iiii  unnoticed.  The 
liour  of  diniK  r  was  !iv*'  o'clock,  and  1  took  French  h^ave 
at  half  past  nin?. 


KN.:i.  \Nn,    HOLLAND    AND    '^(Oll.Ks'o. 


7i> 


Mau  10. — I  had  the  honour  ot"  an  iiitrodnction  ti>  Mr. 
Hi)>(()e  nn  n\\  lirst  arrival  in  I jverpool,  aiii  liis  son  had 
th''  L.''>'idat'ss  to  coiuhict  me  to-dav  to  Alltrtoii-lldlL  his 
lalhcr's  <t'at,  live  or  six  miles  Irom  town.  <  )n  our  way 
u*'  visited  tilt'  llotanical  darden,  an  institution  whii  h 
Mr.  Kii>C()e  and  Dr.  ( 'urrii-  x't  on  loi»t  about  tlnce  y(.ar> 
<ini'f.  I  nder  their  patronaL't'  it  has  llourislifd  rapidlv, 
and  is  in)\v  a  tine  estalili>hmt'i!t.  It  oreupies  live  statute? 
a'Ti  >  ;  the  L'round  apprars  to  1><"  well  adapted  to  thi~ 
[)iii  jiDNi",  three  is  a  puml  anil  a  portiuu  dI  uiarshs'  land 
in  till'  Muddl''  111  till"  L''ird('ii  lor  mucIi  phiiils  as  ncjuiie  a 
«it  >oil  or  roiistanl  iniiiieisidii  :  the  hiii-liDiiscs  are  e\- 
trii>i\i;  and  liaihNoint',  and  ivhiliil  a  'jreat  variety  ol 
exutirs.  while  the  whole  'jaiden  i^  a  place  ol'  LM(.'at 
heautv. 

<  )nr  mad  to  \llert<in-Hall  wa^  ihroiiuh  a  most  deliLdil- 
i'lil  enniiliv.  The  ri\er  Mersey  was  du  our  ri'jlil,  and 
the  fields  dnp.-d  with  ui  iitle  decli\ity  to  its  hanks. 
'Ihe  CMiiutv  111  (  he-liire  was  e\ti-nsi\ t|\-  ill  \ieu-  over 
the  river,  and  heymid  that,  Wales  with  its  rude  mmiii- 
tain». 

\llei  tnii-H.iil  i-^  a  '-lone  buildinL:  whicii  has  an  air  of 
'jraiidenr  :  it  siainis  at  a  eoiisidei  able  il;>tanre  Inun  the 
load,  iu  the  iiiiiUt  III  beaiitiliil  LM'iuiids,  and  appears 
everv    ua\     litted    to    be  the   resiijeiue  ol    its    pri -.-n!    iljs- 

tinjUl^iied  po>~es>er.  Mr.  IJiisCoe  wi-.  .!>  I  aui  i!lIo|-in- 
r,i.  ill'  d  lo  the  bar.  iiMt  iieiu'i  diN'jii-|e  I  with  I'e  pro- 
!(<vi,,i,.    he  turned   hi>  all>  utioii  to   liii  r  i'jT'-.       lie  is  how 

eolHlecIed      111     bu-ill'->     with     ail     e\Ieiir.e     bail  k !  IlL'-llOII'-e 

111    l.i\iipon|.   and    filled    to  t!ii>    pliee   that    he    iiiieht 

lli\e   |ii,,ie     ji  I^Uie   |,j|    illdlll.'iirj     iu     111  -   la  Vom  i  (e    purMiits, 

His  house  iv  Tilled  with  sti^tues.  biis(..  ;.p.l  pi'-iur-'-.    orir- 


80  A  JOURNAL  OK  TRAVELS  IN 

cipally  Italian,  and  in  his  study,  he  is  surrounded  by  the 
figures  of  the  men,  who  are  the  subjects  of  his  History 
of  Lorenzo,  and  of  Leo  X.  Of  the  latter  work,  not  yet 
given  to  the  world,  he  shewed  me  a  copy,  and  point- 
ed out  the  beauty  of  tlie  plates  executed  from  designs  on 
wood. 

Mr.  Roscoe's  person  is  tall,  his  figure  is  graceful,  his 
countenance  intelligent,  his  expression  mild,  and  his  fea- 
tures what  would  generally  be  called  handsome.  He  is 
now  in  middle  life,  and  is  possessed  of  a  private  charac- 
ter of  distinguished  excellence.  His  manners  are  those 
of  a  polished  gentleman.  I  had  seen  him  in  various 
situations  before  I  was  at  his  house,  and  perhaps  it  is 
not  improper  to  mention  as  an  instance  of  his  peculiar 
))oliteness.  that,  wlicr  he  called  at  the  Liverpool  Arms 
and  introciured  hiinseli",  wl)i(!i  he  did  with  the  greatest 
ease,  he  invited  some  of  my  fijllow  passengers  to  dine, 
althougli  ti!(\v  had  no  introduction  to  kirn,  and  no  other 
connection  with  iiie,  than  the  accidental  one  of  having 
been  on  board  ttie  same  ship. 

From  Mr.  R.  T  received  every  attention  which  was 
consistent  witli  the  obligations  of  pol'teness  to  a  consid- 
erable number  of  gentlemen  assembled  at  his  table.  Some 
of  tiiem  were  men  of  literature,  and  o^ie  in  particular  was 
said  to  be  engaged  in  a  biograplTK  al  work  ujxmi  one  of  the 
distinguished  literarv  men  of  tlie  period  of  i,(jienzo,  tor, 
Mr  l?osc,oe  has  diffused  around  him  a  <:eneral  taste  for  Ital- 
ian literature.  In  sucli  a  eircle  it  was  unpleasant  to  find 
literature  excluded  in  favour  of  those  peisonal  and  loral 
topics,  which,  as  only  neiirhbours  and  friends  can  under- 
stnnd.  sucii  only  slionM  paiticipate,  !  was  p.i: ticidarly 
solicitous  to  hear  Mr.  R.  speak  upon  his  favourite  subjert, 


tNi.L.VND,    HOLLAND    AND    «•(  C^i.ANO.  !>  i 

tin'  if\i\alur  arl<  and  literalurf  in  Italy.  Ii.ii  lii;-  euii- 
v»'i>atU'ii  tonk  a  turn  wiiicli  jn-  cliiti'  1  irti\  ihiiiL'  hI  tliis 
natiin-,  till  a  call  to  tlic  diau  inL.'  runiii  cut  it  ^hoil  ami 
U  It  ^l^.  llc^' oo  at  lihfity,  lor  a  U  w  miaulfs,  ti>  s.iti^rv 
m\  ciiriu>.ity.  At  an  early  hour  in  llic  rNcninL,'  I  rrturn- 
''d   tu  l.iv.i|)in.!. 

h  \()U  on(|uir>'  as  to  tin'  ilr("N>  and  nianiirrs  of  jontK'- 
nirii  at  tlir^o  diiun  rs,  and  as  to  tin'  arianL'»'nit'iUs  ol  tlu' 
Nihil',  1  an^utr,  th.it  tiit'_\  arc  much  tin'  same  a^  [)ic\ail 
in  o;ir  citi' >  aniouL'  iijiulcut  proplc.  I'lnc-c  tinid  siImt 
loik-,  lii>id's  the  lork  uhich  accomjiauics  the  kailc — 
a  \siuf  L'lass  iu\ cited  in  a  handsome  ijlass  vessel  contain- 
iuLT  ualer  Id  keep  th'  wine  tdass  cool,  each  i;ue»i  heiny; 
huuished  uilh  this  acconiniodation,  and  ele^iauth  liLiurcd 
and  coloured  napkins,  one  heiipj  folded  l)\t'Ver\  plate  : 
these  con%enienias  are  now  to  he  seen  on  holh  sides  ol 
til-'  \satei-. 

'I  lie  lavjli-li  servants  are  extremelv  asbiduous  and 
adroit  ;  ihev  are  'jeiieiallv  haiidsonu'  well  dressnl  men, 
and  llie_\  plv  the  l;ui  SI  with  such  uatchlul  aitention, 
that,  il  lor  any  re.ison  h''  la\s  do\s  n  his  kuile  and 
!oik,  his  plate  is  iustaiitK'  cau'jhl  a\\a\,  and  a  clean 
oui'  suhsliiiited.  I  he  maimers  ol  tif  L'en'.l"men  I  tu  .k 
ar''  ni.ukeil  hy  l'sssua\il\,  liiiu  uilh  us,  and  there  is 
h  s>  <_')  iitleiit'ss  in  lite  toiler  of  \oire  and  in  the  turn  ol 
di  |iorimeul.  As  to  di<ss  perhaps  th'\'  are  more  |)uuc- 
td!oii>.  \i  Mr.  I  .w  art's  e\cr\'  L'eullem.in  w.is  in  lull 
lres>  with  shoes  and  silk  hose,  and  llunkinv  tliis  punc- 
'.iliousuess  necessar\ ,  I  uent  lull  dressed,  and  in  a  c.ir- 
ria'je,  to  All.  IJoscoeVs,  hut  tin  re  1  met  some  'jenilemeu 
who  had  come  on  horsehaek.  and  u  (M'c  hoots  ijespatfered 
uilh  mud.      /\  lihcru   weened    ill  ili'i   instance   t'.>   he   a' 


82  A  JOURNAL  OP  TRAVELS  IN 

lowed   in  a  rural   situation,  which  probably  would  have 
been  deemed  incorrect  in  a  town. 

A  TRANSPORT  SHIP. 

I  found  some  amusement  yesterday  in  witnessing  the  em- 
barkation  cJ  a  recnment  of  cavalry.  The  horses  were 
hoisted  in  by  means  of  a  canvas  bag  which  was  made  to 
surround  the  body  of  the  animal,  and  tied  with  ropes  over 
the  back.  To  these  ropes  a  tackle  was  fastened,  and  the 
horses  were  thus  raised  from  the  ground.  When  they  first 
felt  the  lifting,  they  flounced  and  kicked  violently,  but,  the 
instant  their  feet  were  cleared  of  the  gr.)und,  they  became 
perfectly  still,  as  if  dead,  and  hung  dangling  in  the  air,  till 
they  were  gently  lowered  into  the  hold  next  the  keel. 
There  they  stand  in  double  rows,  with  their  heads  to  a 
common  manger,  erected  over  the  keel.  In  such  a  situa- 
tion they  must  suffer  greatly  from  the  confined  air. 

The  sohli'is,  with  their  wives  and  children  (for  usually, 
some  of  ;hem  have  families)  are  all  crowded  together 
between  decks,  imaiediately  above  the  horses,  and  only  a 
limited  number  are  allowed  to  come  on  deck  at  once. 

A   QUARRY. 

After  enjoyino-  with  a  companion  the  fine  views  from  the 
mount,  and  the  delightful  retreat  in  the  gardens  beiiind  it, 
I  was  forcibly  struck  yesterday,  with  the  sight  of  a  vast 
quarry  on  th«^  hill  contiynous  to  l.iverponl.  By  coiistanT 
hewing,  it  has  now  become  a  regida--  pit,  probahlv  sixtv 
or  seventy  feet  deep,  and  it  may  be  fifty  rods  loiio;  and  thir- 
ty rods  wide.  Its  walls  are  formed  as  if  it  had  been  design- 
ed (or  soiiif  vast  celhir,  they  are  very  smooth  and  |)erpen- 
'Jicular.     Carts  go  to  the  \cry  bottom  of  this  quarry  by 


iS.Nf.l. A.-^D,  HOLLAND  AND  SCOTLAND.  8i 

,neaus  of  an  ta>v  doscenl  cut  tliruu^'li  the  solid  rock:  this 
jiiL^sai:!'  i>  arclii'd,  lor  a  coii.>idL'ral)k'  distance,  and  tliciv- 
:uri^  Ccirts  couiingout  ol  it  setjii  as  il'  eiiii'iL'iiii;  Iioni  the 
•jrouiui. 

1  he  rock  Is  a  ycUow  sand-stone,  and,  when  first  ohtain- 
cii.  is  very  >;i>lt,  so  as  readily  to  \ieid  to  iioii  tnoN,  and  is 
lhu>ta*<ily  wn.ii'jht  into  any  I<i:ni:  lut  altera  siiort  (■•po- 
sure  to  the  air.  or  immersion  in  liie  water,  it  hardeu^  .oid 
cuiiiiinii-,  to  acijuire  firiuness.  This  makts  it  |i''<  ;ihiir'y 
lit  !iii  die  ciiiistnietitiu  of  u  liarves  :iiid  ducks,  u  hi(  h.  u  ith 
in. my  nf  \\\r  pidihc  bniMin'/s  lure,  are  I'l.rnuii  oi  it.  In 
the  i|iiariy  the  slune  lies  jn  s'lata.  whicii  an'  nun  h  broken 
and  I'inndiled.  fnr  ten  or  twelve  feet  from  the  surface,  htit 
bf<'onie  \<\\  regular  at  ijrea;'  r  depths. 

This  ijuari'N-  is  said  to  In'  the  I lnho/.i  n*  of  Liverpool, 
wli'-re  the  \omiir  '"'"  (if  Sj,i/'f  ciue  to  partake  in  tiio 
fasiiiimahle  p.istiiiit-  of  slimiii  j  at  ''icli  other  :  (or.  dai/- 
/ini',  the  opprulMium  *>(  \meMea.  is  also  the  disiirace  of 
l-ji.dand. 

After  Cdinin'i  up  hdm  the  ijiiarrv .  w  e  walked  six  or  seven 
miles  ill  th>'  cull  lit  1  \  a  roll  lid  I  .iverpnul.  We  were  dcli-ht- 
cd  with  inaiu  iKauliliil  coiiiiti\  letreats  at  l.dL'e  Hill  and 
Kv<rloii.  eiiiineiiiT^  K  IiiL'  iiiirlliiast  ol  I  .iNcrjiool. 

Til"'  _M  miiimIs  are  iiiii\rrsall\  laid  uiil  \s  ith  LTreat  neatness, 
and  amidst  the  lui'jht  \erdiae  uI'lohn  es  and  'jrass.  tin  i^ye 
Is  a_aTi'  di!\  rtlir\t  d  In  the  siikuiiIuh'ss  and  h_dit  ecphuir  i»l 
st  rp'!;liiii'  i.'ia\(|  u  alks. 

'ill.-  v'.c-t-  111  si, If  111  r',\crtoii  Hill,  sl.ipiii-  to  ill,'  livrr, 

[at  sent-    1   ii^   uitli   ■jii.ii   firj.ls  nl   'jriMl   ill  aiii\ .  sin  I  minded 
\  cl.  'ii  ,'.    1  .laclhn,'  ,_;n)uiiJ  nii  \\"-  .I.-i-''y  »!i'_>r".  oi'iiu-i't-  to 


84"  A  JOURNAL  OP  TRAVELS  l!? 

by  green  hedges,  and  exhibiting  fill  that  neatness  for  which 
English  grounds  are  so  much  celebrated. 

1  expect  much  gratification  from  the  picturesque  scenery 
of  England,  as  I  am  about  to  travel  through  the  country 
at  a  season  when  it  is  beginning  to  assume  its  most  beauti- 
ful appearance. 

St.  Domingo,  a  seat  of  the  Prince  of  (Gloucester,  the 
King's  nephew,  limited  our  excursion.  It  lias  an  appear- 
ance of  grandeur  and  rural  magnificence.  The  Prince  of 
Gloucester  is  miich  a  favourite  in  I^iverpof)l.  I  saw  an 
image  of  him  as  lirgc  as  the  life,  placed  beneath  the  bow- 
sprit of  a  slave  ship,  by  way  of  honouring  his  highness. 

AN  ENGLISH  HOTEL. 

The  Liverpool  Arms  is  the  resort  of  the  nobility  and 
gentry,  as  well  as  of  men  of  business,  and  is,  I  presume,  a 
fair  specimen  of  this  kind  of  establishments  in  Lngland. 
The  house  is  very  extensive,  and  its  apartniients  are  fur- 
nish(Ml  in  a  superior  st}'le.  Over  the  door  are  the  arms  of 
the  city  of  Liverpool,  and  the  hotel  certainly  does  not  dis- 
honour these  insignia.  One  room  is  considered  as  common, 
and,  for  occupying  that,  no  particular  charge  is  made. 
Besides  this,  there  are  several  parlours,  where  any  one  who 
chooses  it  may  be  as  completely  retired  as  in  a  private 
house,  his  food  being  served  up  for  him  witiiout  the  danger 
of  intrusion.  Such  a  parloui  our  little  party  from  tlie 
Ont.srio  has  occupied  since  we  have  been  in  Liverpool. 
But  a  seijaratc  charge  at  the  rate  of  a  guinea  a  week  is 
made  for  this  room. 

Lveu  tlie  bed  rooms  are  elegantly  furnished,  and  the 
beds  ;u-»!  |)erfectly  clean,  as  is  th(^  whole  house;  all  the  ac- 
r'oinniodalioiis  uccessarv  for  dressini)'  cumniotelv  are  fur- 


iiinI:"'1   I'l  !!!'■  It'  •'.  n-oi:'.  aiiil  ;i  -x  -trm  ,>!'  li<lU.   i\t. ■inline 

t,;  ^   \.  ,   ,    ji,;i  r    i>!     llliv    \    IM    lliM!M\   In  'll'.">   .•!    ^I'l  \  ,1111    il!>I,llltl% 

i\  III  lu  lih'  ihiid  IT  i.-r,  ill  ■  '.I'ly. 

lni!i-''(i  >  ^  r:  \    [minsiM.'    ai'ci  iiinnn'i  iti.  hi    is    liinii^linl  ;r 
ilif  slmi-ii  ,i  !i  .tici-,  ami  wiiji  ili-'  iiiiiinsi  civ  iliiy  (>:'  luaniuMS 

v1!l   the   |i,llt   nl'   t'l;.-   -■  !\.1UI--.         \    -tinr^rr    iil,(\    -i"!>(  t    l'|i>!H 

n  \i-v\  aiiijilf  liill  i.i  I  II'!'.  -I'li'Ii  ;',!tir:'  --  as  ln'  cim  i-i  -.  ;",i(j 
li«-  ina\  liavf.  in  r\fv\  iii^taiirr.  a  Mjiar;;!:"  laMi-  ior  l.iii'.- 
M  :i.  !t  i^  a!\\  ;!\'-- <  '.I'.' I'"'-!  iliat  lir  \s  ili  rali  '.^n'  wiia-  :J 
iriiiiHT  : — no  (■(iiiij.i  iiiit>  w  ill  1)1-  iir:!''  :t'  iif  mnii-  a.  imt. 
ill.'  iililitjih  jiMiivS  wl'tlu'  U  lil'  |-.  \\'|i-li  hr  I'all'i'  -  .;\s  :\  lli'' 
iiii^iiiliii  \',  iiif  L'la^>.  •^iilii'ii'iitt\'  iMilical''  la  \v  ii.:l  rvtiin.;lhi:i 
l!i<  M'liiiHtN  III  till'  •jin'-t  is  iicltl.  la  -iiMit.  in  -iM'!'  a  ii"!.  i 
IS  til  II  \virnli  I  am  imw  i1i'S(  lihiii'.  a!nin>l  i\.i\  cun:!.!;! 
if  I'lifiicstic  lii'i'  nia\  Im-  ip'iialiH'l. 

lait  Inf  all  tills  till  II-  ;-  a  jirif'.      1  .■•nnits;.^   l,.i',sr\ir 

I!  at  till'  rli;'rL''S  an-  \ii\  <■  \l  i  a.\  a:  a  al .  ci  m-ii  a  i  in.'  lii«'  lia- 

,,■  n-i'  tax.ii;  ai   ni'  lliis  i muniA.      'I  la'   jicl  i,  •,[..■    ^hiHin  • 

111'!  si  \|.i  II  I'l'  a  iii'jlit.     \  ('I  a  mill  ai  !,;  >  a  \  last  n!  ('a  or  I'l  rlirr, 

\illi    twa-t   aial    an  I'jj,  will    ii-H    r\:.'.,!  mn'    -hillin.:    ami 

:    lit  j  .  a  r>'. '— ti-a  at  I  \iniii  J    !-    aliw'it    ll.i- sai.ir.   !)iii  tla 

vrimn'i'    Is    nnnli    imai'    i  \]  n'lisiv  !•.       Ii    it    r.a.sj   (^   ca'  iwi, 

ilislics,  it  v>  li!  I  ii-l   li  \  I-  sliiniii,:-.  w  nil  a  Ira_al    li.-ait.        V 

si-jiai  all'  rlia  i  '!■  ;^  ina'li    lor  .ilninsi  i  \ ,  ia   liimj-  :    a  ■j'a-  -  ni 

Ml  1    w  :11  I  I  '-t  I  i_lit  I II  la  r.  ami  a  ihUilr  i  I    >!i.  i  a  \  w  m-'  ^i  \ 

'I   -I  %''n  sliiHiii;r.  .    a  In  .till'  I  if  I'l  lit    ri\  I'   sliiiliii  ;..  ;ia,l  ,,n«' 

M     ^I.M  ii  na  nail'  I  a    till.       In   I  .  ;  j  Ian.]    tin     la  .    ;  I.ia^t .    aii' i 

.1  a  a  I  I  \  iniiiL'.  ai  i-  riaish  i.  1 1  il  ,i^  1 1 1\  i.il  im  aN.  \\  liili-  c'lniiir 

>  .!   iiialti  1   (I  vii  ■'!   lanii'i'l.  aiai   tla  n  lini'  il   is  mnrli  mmi' 


ri  H,    ;.    Iih.a..''    a  ..a.v  mi-.a  !■  .,i.^ '  .u  ti,i-  w  ■.■rk 
null—  a  i-  laiaa  .\  i%c  iii'a.li'a.'  (i 


So  A    y'OCKAAL    Or    TKAVELS    I?f 

expensive  than  both  the  other  meals,  for  supper  is  perfectly 
optional ;  it  is  very  genteel  to  cat  it,  although  it  is  not  un- 
gcnteel  to  go  without.  But  this  list  of  charges  by  no  means 
rornprehends  all.  The  servants  at  the  public  houses  iu 
England  are  paid  by  the  guests,  and  not  by  their  employ- 
ers. They  not  only  receive  no  wages,  but  many  of  them 
pay  a  premium  for  tlieir  places  :  that  is,  the  masters  of  the 
hotels  farm  out  to  their  servants  the  privilege  of  levying 
contributions,  and  the  consideration  is,  their  service.  At 
our  hotel  the  chief  waiter  assured  us  that  he  paid  one 
hundred  pounds  per  ainium  for  his  place,  besides  paying 
two  under  waiters,  and  finding  all  the  clothes'  brushes, 
and  some  other  et  ceteras  of  the  house.  He  had,  more- 
over, if  we  might  credit  his  story,  a  wife  and  five  children 
TO  support.  The  head  -vaiters  are  commonly  young  men 
of  a  genteel  appearance,  and  often  dress  as  well  as  gentle- 
men. 

The  servants  whom  it  is  indispensable  to  pay  in  every 
public-house  are,  the  waiter,  who  has  three  pence  a  meal ; 
the  chamber-maid,  who  has  six  pence  for  every  night  that 
you  lodge  in  the  house  ;  and  the  shoe-black,  who  is  very 
appropriately  called  hoois^  receives  two  pence  or  three 
pence  for  ever}'  pair  of  shoes  and  boots  which  he  brushes. 
Besides  these,  the  stranger  who  comes  with  horses  pays 
six  pence  a  night  to  the  ostler,  and  the  portei-  demands 
six  pence  for  carrying  in  the  bagirage,  and  the  same  sum 
for  bringing  it  out.  The  rates  which  I  have  slated  are  the 
lowest  which  one  can  possibly  pay  with  decency.  It  is 
usual  lo  go  a  little  beyond  them,  and  the  man  who  pays 
most  liberally  is,  you  know,  in  all  countries,  considered  hy 
this  class  of  i)eople  as  the  most  of  a  gentleman. 


l.NwL  \M}.   HOLLAND    \M) 


^< 


i'lirsr  il.'iii.inds  it  i>  impo-vilili-  til  I  \;i.lr  or  up.  1  ;  ilic; 
ire  a>  KL'iilail)  l)rc)ii!:!it  lorwar.l  a>  tin'  ii;!l  il^i  1'.  ai;>i  ;{ 
■li'pairiirj  mirsl  i>  attcinicd  l)\  liit"  uliolf  i''t'mii<  'U  --  i- 
vaiits,  ulni  ait'  iiiiici<iii>  to  ifiil-a'  sii\ic.  v  wiiich  \\,-  li,,,', 
not  want,  ami  sliouKl  iir  br  in  .i  li'  of  i.'.'inal  .i'l-'  ih>'  In 
will  crrtaiiilv  Ik-  rt'iniii(l<',l  thai  the  \\.ii;ii.  tin-  i  ImuiIhi 
maiil,  lln'  Itonts.  ami  prrijaps  tlir  o-ll"  r  ami  portri'.  aic  ii  >; 
•m  lir  I'liri^oitiai." 

1  iii'N,/  ru-toin^.  will!''  tiny  caaiiot  lie  idii^idncd  as 
iiMiiourahIr  lo  till'  iiaii..:i  d  in  ima  i'^.  and  aif  \cr\  limihlc- 
soiiir  to  Irav'llris.  wiio  at'-  cvii'v  wlicii'  pf^tircd  uitii  ii 
suaiiii  ol"  t'.\|)<(t;',mN.  are  lio\M\cr  pHM;urii\r  ol"  soiiio 
\iy\  iisci'iil  (•iin-''|iirii''''s.  I'lii' srr\ant>  liHilsiii'."-  rorllir;i 
reward  iVoin  llu-  i'iir>t.  are  atti'nti\e  to  all  lii<  uiNlus,  ami 
a>si<inou>  to  pr<  ludte  liis  coiii!"ort  ;  their  ser\iee  is  ilnrr- 
fiilli/  rt'iidi  red  and  i:ot  with  tliat  si///(  n  sti/rn  forjxrsotnt/ 
rlii;iiifi/.  uhii  h  ue  >o  iiiti'ii  ^I'c  in  Ane  rica.  In  I  aiLdaiul, 
til''  -frsaiit  is  coiili  iited  with  hi-  <oiiditloii  ;  lie  tioes  not 
aiai  at  aii\  ililii''  iie.'li'a  .  u  liili  in  A  iiu-rica  a  jiei'soii  iil  this 
dc^iiipiioii  will  iiMially  i>i!ia\c  in  >iii  li  a  nianner  .is  t(^ 
f\ine.'  th.it  hf  n_'ard>  von  as  heiiiu  no  licttrr  th.in  hiinstli. 
'riii>  iiiioin  ini.'m  !•  Miivc.-,  imwrvfr.  lioin  the  nuiltiplirij 
rf>oiiii(>  ,iiid  ^iipi  rna'  (  cimiition  oi  liir  low  la'  oidiiN  in 
Amiaaca.  and  altiioie^li  one  wduld  w  i>h  to  alter  tlnar  de- 
poitiiinit,  still,  as  a  patriot,  lie  weiiid  not  cli.iuvf  ki  k- 
iiioNc  the  cause. 


II. f     l,iii^iM.:<-    i ••  [.liM-i>      t(i    i-oiiii  .ni't  r    '111-    w.uWr   '■ir-- 

'■  I'lr.i-.  Im  iTin'-iii!..  r  the  ch.nnl.i  T-in.ii.l  -:,  .ml!  -n  ni:.  U<  [\\i- 
Iio.av  ,.i,il  III.-  i!.-|.nty  l""a^-  III.'  ..-il.  ,•  -  ;iir  |M.ri<i ,  .v.\  m  Ml.•- 
^i:l,^■■  .ill  \  Ol  111  1,1 1 1 11^  ill  .Mil  (  .  nil.  I  il  ,iny  line  ul'  tlnni  -l..>iilij  lie  I.,!'- 
i;iii;.-ii  .ir  n.'.J.-.  tcil.  ll.i  il.-|.;ir!iiu  i  r.i\ .  li.  r  w  lIM.r  lul...-.\  (.I  -.y 
iniinu'i:-.   ai.  1  iiis  pliy-i  i.jiioiiiy  well  iinrlvc.!.  U.n  liiluru  i-n  ..11.  ■ 


88  A   JOURNAL    OF    TRAVELS    IN 

Being  about  to  leave  Liverpool,  I  have  paid  my  bili. 
and  after  giving  the  waiter  his  due,  1  asked  him  whether 
that  was  as  much  as  he  usually  received  ? — he  replied,  that 
it  was  what  mere  travellers  paid  hin),  but  that  American 
qcntlemen  usually  paid  very  liberally. 

Tiiere  was  a  French  servam  in  the  house,  who,  from 
the  first,  manifested  designs  upon  our  pockets.  V/ith  the 
characteristic  obsecjuiousness  of  bis  coumry,  he  was  all 
^jows,  smiles,  and  flourishes,  with  most  abundant  declara- 
fions  of  the  pleasure  it  would  give  him  to  consult  our  wish- 
es; and  he  professed  a  peculiar  sympathy  for  our  situations, 
as  being  himself  a  stranger.  He  had  fought  for  his  kingj 
and  lost  his  estate:  lie  had  been  in  battles  and  sieges  from 
Dunkirk  to  Toulon,  and  enumerated  a  list  of  illustrious 
"ommanders  under  whom  he  had  served.  Being  amused 
with  his  harmless  vanity,  wo  listened  with  some  attention 
to  his  story,  and  this  gave  him  such  spirits,  that,  "  thrice 
he  routed  all  his  foes,  and  thrice  he  slew  the  slain." 

[  called  for  a  candle  to  go  to  bed  : — the  Frenchman 
i)onnded  tlirou.'h  the  long  entry,  with  the  elasticity  of  an 
jntelo]>e,  and  brcutrht  me  one  in  less  time  than  \  have 
,'aken  to  relnie  the  circumstance,  and  as  lie  ])resented  it, 
rt-ith  a  profvii.nd  bow,  hi'iiged  r.iy  pard<m.     I   told  my 

companion,  Me.    l\ -,   that   unless   we  repressed  this 

;nau"s  oln^efiuioir'ncsf.,  w^-  should  be  obliged  not  only  to 
pay  him  W,v  hi-;  service'^,  but  for  thr  loss  of  his  nobility, 
for  no  o!i''  ever  saw  a  l'"rt'nchma!i  in  a  servile  situation,  in 
d  for^^'igu  rouulry,  who  was  not,  in  liis  own  account  of  the 
matter.  vi;y  much  out  of  hib  j)rni>'.'r  place  in  society,  and 
who  bad  not  hern  a  marquis,  tir  at  least  a  L^entlemaii.  ^^V 
treated  our  .Monsieur  coldly  for  a  day  or  two.  and  iii^'  bo",-'-\, 
I'Fniles.  one!  fidi'rlf.^icf:  all  vanished- 


l.N<.l.AND,    HOLLAND    AND    SCOTLAND. 


bO 


Xo.  v.— MANCIIKSTKR. 


W'iflier — Iiii|io~ltiiin  mi  -ti';iiri;('r> — \'ii'\vs  of  tht;  niitlioi-  in  wri- 
ting—  liiiii'  to  Maiii-iii'-ttT — (iilcaii  lloii-e — rrf^cdt — W  aniiii,'- 
tciii  —  lirauiiliil  -ifiiiT)  —  Ml'.itjilily  ol  -ilahjc  comji.iiiiori-i^.MaM- 
(■lic-ti.T — "^iiiiiliy  —  llli^li-ii  liM-iiitdHly — \   laiiiily    ^ct'iir — (nl- 

li  — (•  —  Ummkiii  camp — <Millii(:  cinH-cli  —  I'riiicf  Charli" Ur!icll- 

!•>!!  'i!  17  i '>--l;-uh  iriti''- — \  I'lii!  i-o|.hii-al  Iri-turc — N'oliiiiiiTr- 
—  >ini.!a\  iliiHiii,' — |)iikr  (if  lii  iil_:c\\  atcr  -  (ai.al — \iirii-iit  ty- 
[Mr:ra|.|iv — ('(iltoii  iiiarmtactMi'ic-  —  M'-liinil  ni  -'anipliu-  cliintzi',- 
— Ol'  ciilliii^  \i-l\cli  —  Of  >ini:eiii^  Um'  -ha^— Ni'W  |a-ucf^~  nl 
lilcacliin:;  —  Aiiii-ricari  -uinao  —  >ki  icli  (it  .M,ii;(;h>I(.  [--.Maiiiu-r- 
i'i(ir.i!-,  and  cdii'lili'.Mi  '>l  lln'  aili-t-. 

^Im/  I  I. — 'l"hi>  iiKirniiit:  u*-  liml  cloiuls.  rnin,  siuisliiiic 
<iui\v.  li;iil  ami  wind,  all  iiiirMHHL'  "Mcti  ullicr  iii  \:i\i'u\  siu'- 
ri'vsidii,  but,  a-^  luii^t  nl' tin'  (la_\  ^  -ii:ct'  my  an  i\  ,il  lia\-'  la'cii 
Inic.  I  cdiiM  iidt  (•(iii-<iilt.T  it  its  a  lair  sjicrimt'ii  ol  Lii'^iisi. 
\\  ladii'f. 

r.iDi:  lo  M  \M  iii:-i  }:k 

111  ill.'  at'tmi.aui  1  Irft  l_/l\il  jxa.l  lur  .M,i:irli<>ti-i-.  ,.. 
••■iMii|iaii\  with  iii\  Irildw -|la^^l•ll'^<'|■.  \\r.  U'l^'J^,  ul'  tin 
''it\  ol  \\  ,l^llill•.'t(ln.  \V  f  it'aiiiial  I'maitxso  1  .ii_li-!iaifii 
wild  lodji  (1  will)  ii>.  ii!  tln'  Imtcl  at  I,i\  fr|ioo'.  tlial  \vc  jiaid 
y',1  at  l\  i\\  ice  a^  inncli  lor  our  iliiun'is  as  iIha  li.nl  doni'.  ami 

'lie   ol   till'   W  aitns  cxiircNvlv  told  out'  of  lll.'so    !  .llLdisIllllfll. 

).ii  '■  ulnii  vtiaii'/>'i>  i-aiiic  tlitii'  tlicv  put  it  on  well."'' 
'I'lii-  liourvi  1,  uc  lia\f  no  doiiUl,  i^  a  hiisiut'ss  of  llir 
wailfi^  oiil_\ ,  ,iu(i  that  tiic  tviia  luoury  thus  olitaiucd  i-. 
Jiut  into  liii-ir  ou  11  jiocki  Is.  This.  ol»vions|\-,  is  an  »'\i! 
iiisiii/  in  a  '_■!»  a'  nnavuir,  truin  ih.  ir  ric(i\  iii'_!  no  ujl;'^  : 
••■   \  jr''lhus  iiiiluc'd  to  jirt'N  upon  itiaHL'»'r- 


9()  A   JOURNAL    OP   TRAVELS    IN 

Coniing  as  we  did  immediately  from  our  slii{»,  wc  could 
not  well  conceal  our  being  Americans  ;  but  having  learned 
the  manners  of  the  pubhc  houses,  we  may  hereafter  stand 
a  better  chance  to  pass  for  Englishmen,  while  we  assume 
the  confident  knowing  air  of  natives,  instead  of  tlie  timidity 
and  doubtful  address  of  strangers. 

As  I  am  now  commencing  my  travels  in  England,  I 
would  remark  that  you  must  not  expect  too  much  from  my 
rapid  observations.  Very  minute  information  respecting 
a  foreign  country  is,  without  doubt,  best  obtained  from 
writers  who  confine  themselves  to  particular  topics.  But 
to  you,  and  my  other /'r/e??..7,s',  I  trust  that  a  faithful  picture 
of  some  portion  of  real  life,  actually  led  in  a  foreign  coun- 
try, interspersed  with  a  reasonable  number  of  remarks, 
will  be  more  interesting  and  useful  than  a  collection  of  mere 
dissertations  or  general  accounts. 

One  who  sits  at  home  and  reads  concerning  another 
country,  wishes  to  know  how  that  country  would  appear 
to  him,  were  he  travelling  or  residing  in  it.  He  therefore 
takes  a  degree  of  interest  in  the  narrations  of  a  traveller 
which  he  will  not  feel  in  the  laboured  dissertations  of  the 
professed  essayist,  because  he  goes  along  with  the  former, 
in  every  step  of  iiis  progress,  is  a  party  to  all  his  feelings 
and  adventures,  and  ultimately  becomes  himself  in  imagi- 
nation, the  traveller  whose  work  he  is  perusing,  and  thus 
liis  curiosity,  his  taste  tor  adventure,  and  his  self  love  are 
;ui  enlisted,  Avhile  the  dissertation  in  form  is  read  like  a 
?ess(jn. 

.Mr.  Riggs  and  I  took  two  seals  in  the  coach  one  on  the 
outside  and  one  on  the  inside,  intending  to  occu|;ythem 
alternately.  You  have  heard  that  ])e;i;..le  ride  on  the  roofs 
<jf  the  Euglijii  suij^e  fouciies-     1  his  situation  aliords  fine 


f.N'il.ANK.    HOI.I.  VND    AND    -^niTl.AM).  '.'i 

\..cus  nf  till'  C'luutry,  ami  is  often  ;i  coii\i'iu<'iit  relULri-'  when 
til''  iii>i(it'  |)lace>  ;ir«'  all  taLeii. 

Till'  CDSt  (il'thc  o\it-iii('  sf.it  1^  l)ut  lillli'  iMun'  than  liall 
a>  iiiikIi  as  tlial  ol  tlic  in^iiie.  Tliis  is  a  LTifat  a(;coiniiiiii.la- 
tii.u  lu  til''  [icorcr  (iitli'i-.  ul  i)fuj)lt'.  Tjie  sui  icty  oii  ilu'  ti>[i 
nI  the  Coach  i>  ci'itaiiil\  rather  i^rfijarious,  l)ul  a  travtllci 
who  i>  !)cnt  on  ■^tcinL:  ll"'  lace  ol' the  country  in  the  host  ol 
all  puv^ililr  .-,iiiiati(M!>,  uill  not  he  ditiTied  honi  this  very 
iiiipoi  taut  a>l\  aniaje.  I)\  the  It  ai  (jI  pli  hidii  contact.  * 

I  tiist  nioiiiiliil  tiif  top  (ii  till'  coach  with  nu  head  al 
;ca^1  tiltt  I'll  I.  ct  iKMn  till'  '^roiiinh  'J'lnie  was  nothiiii,'  to 
>ectn<'  one.  cxccjit  a  little  inm  looji  shaped  like  the  handle 
ol  a  pad  :  nu  iVet  hiin.:  down  uii>nppoit<'d.  rnaccn^toni- 
I'd  t.)  -.iirh  >l''\  atfd  situations,  u  hen  lie  ciack.  ol"  the  coaidi- 
manV  whip  [aii  I'le  hor^e>  into  I'nll  motion,  over  the  roti^h 
paveiiii'nt-.  and  w i'  d.irtf'd  rapidly  .n'oiind  one  corni'r  and 
au'ilhi'r.  \oii  will  not  be  siii-pi  iscil.  thai  at  tii>t.  1  Iclt  .-onie- 
what  '_'iddv.  ;i!id  in\  olinitai  lly '_'i  a^pfd  ih'' imn 'juai  d  with 
yr<'at  fMf.  I  sunn  harned.  howi  \t  i,  to  iulA  ni\  amis  in 
s<'cnrii\ .  trii~tin.r  to  thr  liaj.nn'e  ol  position. 

Til''  first  inti'icstiirj-  i)t)|fci  which  attracted  our  notice, 
as  wi'  pidi-crdi'd  int'i  till'  countr\.  \uis  ( ti'n  ml  Hni/si  .  the 
s.'at  n|  the  cclfhratt'd  l>r.  So/ommi.  1  nerd  not  iiilorni 
you  that  till'  Doctnr  is  well  known  in  Ain>  rica.  tor  rviiy 
in. in  who  has  li'arniii'i  enouLdi  to  r<'ad  a  nrwspapi  i.  and 
e\''s  iiiou.di  \'i  prrusc  dnuli!''  pira  iitliis  (It  ,in  a]>oilircri- 
r_> 's  d.i.ii,  iiiiiNt  ha\i'  heroin'"'  ;■'■  ;i;;dnli' 1  \v';lli  thf  nn  rits 
•  iw^l  III"  I.  -u  ol  l)i .  Solniii'ia.  in  Li\  u  pi'.'l  lir  is  iini\t  r- 
sall\  calli  d  a  ijhik  1:  ,i\\t\  an  tr'.pn.ifni-.  Iml  vou  know  wlurc 


111''  I'l  ii>'  111  tlic  iii-i<!i  .  1  IM'  f'l.'i  '.  \~  no!  (  iiiiri'di  I'V  the  lailc, 

111    a    .a lai    l"ra    ri-i',iai    di-Cict''        I'Laik    1'    :imi'Mi:iN    to 

'.'■■'It    i\  p'licr    '.•!  lin-  on  nil  a-,  "i-.i.''  \<j  t'l.c  :v'^r■    [A  \^\---  ■  l^'"^ 


i)2  A   JOURNAL    OF    TRA\K.LS    I.\ 

it  is  that  the  prophet  is  usually  without  honour,  and  if  the 
Doctor  has  missed  of  obtaining  this  reward,  he  has  gained 
a  more  substantial  retribution — an  ample  fortune. 

Dr.  Solomon  is  by  birth  a  Jew  and  it  may  well  be  sup- 
posed that  this  circumstance  does  not  diminish  the  odium 
which  his  pretensions  and  success  have  created. 

The  first  eight  or  ten  miles  we  travelled  on  a  paved  way, 
and  our  progress  was  much  embarrassed  by  the  great 
number  of  carls  goin^  into  Liverpool.* 

Our  first  stage  was  Presrot,  an  ancient  town  built  of 
brick.  The  appearance  of  that  street  through  which  we 
rode  was  disagreeable.  Here  the  rain  compelled  me  to 
leave  the  roof  for  the  inside. 

If  the  traveller  would  be  secure  of  this  retreat,  it  is  ne- 
cessary to  pay  for  an  inside  seat,  and  then  he  can  ride  in- 
side o  out  as  he  chooses.  If  he  has  paid  for  the  top  onl}^, 
he  may  come  in,  on  paying  the  diflerence,  provided  there 
is  room.  But  the  windows  of  the  stage  coaches  usually 
form  so  small  a  part  of  the  sides,  that  the  opportunity  for 
seeing  the  country  from  tlu;  inside  is  often  very  limited. 

Eight  or  ten  miles  more  brought  us  to  Warrington,  an- 
other ancient  town,  with  very  narrow  streets  and  houses 
of  a  ruinous  aspect.  The  country  in  its  vicinity  is  e\- 
tremely  beautiful,  and  through  the  next  stage  of  eigiitecti 
miles,  to  Manchester,  we  had  a  continued  succession  of 
green  fields,  neat  hedge-rows,  rividets,  and  country  seats  5 

'  Wlicii  carts  meet  011  llie  road  f!ie  ciistoin  is  just  the  opposite 
of  ours  :  heie  they  keep  to  the  left  that  the  drivers  may  go  on  the 
side  walks;  with  us  in  (U)nsei|neiice  of  keeping  to  the  rif^lit,  tlie 
drivers  are  brought  into  tlie  middle  of  the  road,  bat  as  \vc  rarely 
have  side  walks  iipon  our  roads,  this  is,  as  regards  us  of  j:o  mo- 


K.N. . I  AND,    HOI.LANt)    AND    Sf.Vri.ASU.  <h' 

-.OOIK-;  |.t  ruliarlv  (.!« lii'lilliil  to  us  who  liail  so  rrccntlv  fu'T 
'•n  rlif  in-raii. 

I  lie  M^'ftatioii,  rctrc^lii'il  and  hriiihti'iifil  l>\  remit 
vaiiw.  ua^olllH'  purest  ami  dccprst  LTt't'ii.  and  tin-  ^lIli^ln•d 
iiiMtnrss  ot"  till-  plant  itioi\s  and  tu'lds.  cviiK'i'd  a  lii'.di  di*- 
L'lti'  (i|  skill  and  care  in  tin'  a<_M  i<"n!lure. 
Man\  ot  till'  lit'dL't-'  rows  wcrt'  triniun'd  w  iili  tin  LUfatrsl 
t  xartiii'ss  ;  tli<'\  are  tin-  ino><t  perlcct  rfiicc  that  can  lio 
iina'jint'ij,  luinij  at  once  impi  rvious  to  small  an'nnaN  and 
unp:is>al)!i'  li\  laruf  ones — iiicapai)lc  ol  ht-inL'  pullfd  up — 
uMilhrown  iir  disordered,  and.  Io|- niaiiN  \ears  U'-ediiii.'  no 
repair;  they  aKo  lorni  a  nio^t  iteauiilul  I'eatuic  in  the 
scenery  ot'  the  coinitiy,  especially  when  thev  are  tilled  liy 
ll'pworv-  \^lllr■l|  i,   inor.'  or  liss  tht-  fat  1   \a'l\    ueiiei  all  y  ;    tllC 

tii.ldsare  a  li'h  ijurinent.  and  the  hed'ie  rows  lorni  t  e  eni- 
iu'oidered  (  d'je  or  border.  In  some  instances,  the  htdiie 
ro^\s  are  placed  on  nioinuls  or  d\kes    ot"  earth,   which  in 

•■■U'lill.  Woidd  I'ol  in  a  competent  elU  losiire  nl  ihemseUeS, 
e-jii  im1I\  as  lhe\  aie  acr.iiiipanied  h\  ditches  nul  olwhicil 
ill''  earlii  whi'  ii  lormed  them  has  lieeii  taken.  In  many 
Mi^iaiices,  and  especialK  in  !he  \iclnity  ol'  (.''iitlenK  ii's 
iu'ii-es,  these  mounds  or  d\  kes  are  sodded  wiih  'jreal  e\- 
aciness.  sn  that  tlie  \erihn'e  is  as  p-  iieet  (jii  their  ahiinst 
perpeiidiculsr  sides  as  in  tin-  tii'hls.  and  \Uien  npiai  ilie  tnp 
el'ili'se  r;ii:d  p.irap'  i<.  the  line  laii^e  row  lis.'s.  tiiiiimed 
w  nil  perleci  pii-cisi.in,  and  loriniii'.'  tin'  mnsi  eli -^ai.i  -ree!, 
I'iiiije,  it  is  seareelv  pe,sil)le  ti>  iimc^iic'  an\  liiiiii:  .'l  the 
kind  nnae  '_;raiii\  in■_^  Xru'u.d  smne  plantatieiis.  the 
niiMniii  and  In  dje  |.i\v  tiPL;<thi  r.  i  -tim  iiin  Imni  the  i)et- 
Iwm  n|  thi;  dii' h,  nam  ■•  I- !;■ '■  ol  t<'!!  >>!  iwcNe  |,.et  :•> 
h.ei.lM. 


94  A   JOURNAL    OF    TRAVELS   IN 

Our  companions  were  social,  and  we  found  that  the  cii 
cumstance  of  being  shut  up  in  the  same  coach,  enabled  us 
to  dispense  with  the  formalities  of  introduction.  As  we 
now  liad  no  reasons  for  concealing  our  origin,  we  avowed 
ourselves  to  be  Americans  and  made  the  circumstance  of 
our  being  strangers  in  the  country,  the  reason  for  asking 
numerous  questions  ;  they  were  answered  with  nadiness 
and  civility,  and  conversation  flowed  without  interruption. 

Lancashire  is  a  fine  country  for  grass  and  cattle.  Its 
dray-horses  are  animals  o^ stupendous  size;  they  are  per- 
fectly black,  very  fat,  and  rarely  move  faster  t!ian  a  walk. 
The  carts  in  Liverpool  are  drawn  by  liorses  of  this  de- 
scription, and  one  of  them  was  imported  into  Connecticut 
a  few  years  ago,  for  the  sake  of  iin]jroving  om  uwn  dray 
breed,  but  I  believe  the  exj^eriment  did  not  succeed,  as 
our  climate  a})pears  not  well  adapted  to  so  corpulent  an 
animal. 

MANCHESTER. 

May  12. — It  being  the  Sabbfith,  we  wandered  out  to 
find  a  church,  and  by  cluuice  came  to  tiie  olil  Cathechal, 
where  an  attendant,  an  old  man,  dressed  in  a  kind  of  uni- 
form i)f  blue  and  red,  conducted  us  to  a  sent  in  the  gallery, 
as  we  «ere  strangers,  and  had  no  claim  to  any  more  hon- 
ourable place. 

The  preacher  was  a  young  man,  wlio  seemed  very 
intent  on  exhil)itiiio:  ''his  own  iair  form  and  just  propor- 
tion." 

His  sermon  was  a  kind  of  discursive  historical  essay  on 
the  temjKnary  apostacy  of  St,  Peter;  it  had  very  little  the- 
ology in  it  of  any  kind.  lie  liad.  however,  oiir  merit  which 
his  appearance  wouhl  not  li;i\e  lerl  one  to  expect,  that  f)f 


f>'.i.A>i>.  iu)i.LA\n  AVI)  >M)fi,VNn.  [1.» 

lirju'j  >iip(  I'mi  to  the  tlfsiri- ol  llatt<iiiiL' ;il  Ifiist  ono  liall  ol 
ln>>  auiiii  iiif  :  lot  lie  n'iii,irktHl.  tliat  St.  I'rttr,  was  i  oii- 
louuilt'.l  l>\  tiic  qiifslioii  »)1  a  maul  soia  ant,  imv  iniimiilaH'il 
h\  a  /ill)/,  fi-iiin  (I  iroiiian.  \  lii>  tliiiri  li  uas  well  lillfd, 
.iiK.i  tlic  uicaifi  part  appiMnd  to  hi    poor  [ic()|)h'. 

lla\iii_'a^    \tt   Ix'i'ii   ill    I,nL:laiul  only  a    ku  (lav>.  luv 

(■inhiMls,a>  M'l  mas  \s  ill  sii)i|ii)m' is  activf.  aibl  (■oii>taut- 
Iv  I  iiij)li>sril.  ill  ciMUi)  iiiiu  till'  iiiaiuurs  o|'  ilii>  ol.l  roiiii- 
tiA  null  iho:-!'  ol  the  \i\\  voiiii'j-  oiii'  ol"  u  hicli  \\v  arc  iiu- 
tistv.  'I'lic  coiiiiiai  iMiiis  ol'  ira\illrr>.  ami  tluir  tji'iu'ial 
roiK  lus.iiii^,  air  ho\M\rr  a'\\a\>  liahlr  to  i-nor,  ht'caii>e 
thi_\  iinljf  liiiiii  a  liiiiili  il  \ii'u  ol  the  Mihicrt  :  the  [iri'^tiil 
ih>t.uii'i'  liirni^lii^  till-  liiiii.  and  i>  loo  apt  to  loiin  tin'  iia^i- 
ci|  till'  coni'lii-ioii.  <  iriifial  iiiihiction^  ai'f  ahva\v  iLiiil'T- 
oii^  uiil'>^  ili.iuii  rroiii  a  _Ttat  iui!ii!/i  r  ot'  partiriilais. — 
]■  ol  r.i-taii' c.  I  rxpi'iH-nrril  a  'j i rat  th'uriH,'  of  rmlriifsi 
Tim::!  i1i.-  \|  i\.m  ol  l.i\<Tpoo|.  uiiicli  proiliircil  ,m  illipit'v- 
-loii  iiiiiav  oiii ;iMi'  to  til.'  'JO, 111  inaniuTs  ot  tho  iiiaL'i^traiA 
ol'  l.ii'jland.  hut  iiii  \i  r\  in-\i  (iia':islialt'  with  whom  I  hi- 
raiiii-  (  oii\  I  I  v,iiit.  ciLiiiil  this  iiii|irrssioii,  and  produrtni 
tin-  iiM|io>ili-  :  il  iv  hijhlv  pr^'liahU'  ih.it  hoth  imprc^-ioii^ 
\Mir  iiioii' Miiv.  ainl  ih.it  l.ii'jiisli  in  I'jistratfs  air  !iiu<-h 
hlsr  ill.'-''  ol  1. till  1  r.jiiiiii  iiN.  nidi',  iiidill'miit.  or  pohl''. 
,11  roidiii'i  to  ihr  p  mil  iilai  (  liaiact'T  and  hiiiii..ir  i!i  tin.' 
man.  In  in  mdiiiL'  a  fn't.  ho^v  i\ii ,  thn  i'  c  i.iiin;  hi'  any 
d.i':  ■'  r  "i  '  iior,  and  it  ','i\i's  inr  pli  a-iin'  to  ni.itr  an  in- 
st.iin  '■  ol  li.oiis  lio-pil:dit\  I'll  i\i  d  h\  ni\  lomp.iinon  nad 
lii\  -i-ir.  \\  illioiit  ihi-  --inallr-t  »  1  lini  t"  11,  and  u  it  ii  thi'  ha/.- 
aid  \s  hii  h  alw  ;i\  >  .ilti  iid->  till'  iHstd'-,  m.-  ni  ( oiitidf-nct',  /// 
■■'Irani  r,    nnoii    a    vtiaiiL:''!'.      Mi.     1' .    a  la'^in.itahl'- 


96  A  JOURNAL  OP  TRAVELS  IK 

merchant  of  Manchester,  was  our  stage  coach  companioii 
from  Liverpool,  and  soon  discovered  himself  to  he  so  in- 
telligent a  man  that  we  were  prompted  to  make  such  in- 
quiries as  proved  us  to  be  foreigners.     On  our  arrival  at 

]\Ianchester,  Mr.  T gave  us  his  address,  requested  us 

to  call  upon  him,  and  promised  to  show  us  the  curiosities 
of  the  town.  Accordingly  we  called,  and  were  introduced 
into  an  intelligent  and  agreeable  fimily,  whose  cordial 
manners  gave  us  confidence  to  accept  the  offer  of  their 
hospitality.  We  took  tea  with  them,  and  would  have 
withdrawn  at  an  early  hour,  had  not  tlieir  kindness  exceed- 
ed our  diiiidence,  and  induced  us  to  sp('nd  the  evening. — 
We  found  that  our  newly  acquired  friend  was  not  merely 
a  man  of  business.  Jle  had  a  literary  turn,  which  was 
evinced  by  a  judicious  collection  of  ancient  coins,  maps 
and  books,  principally  historical.  lie  had  an  atlas  of 
American  maps,  and  made  me  point  out  tlie  very  spot  of 
my  residence  when  at  home.  Among  his  coins  were  sev- 
eral of  the  Roman  emperors,  and  of  the  republic.  On 
one  of  the  coins  of  the  republic,  was  the  story  of  I'omulus 
and  Remus,  sucking  the  wolf;  the  boldness  of  the  relief 
was  very  little  impaired  by  time.  He  had  also  some  Saxon 
coins  which,  although  rude,  were  interesting. 

In  the  mean  time.  Dr.  T ,  the  father  of  the  gentle- 
man to  whose  politeness  we  had  been  so  much  indebted, 
returned  from  a  tour  of  professional  duty,  (for  he  was  a 
physician)  and  insisted  on  our  staying  to  supper.  Our 
host  entertained  us  with  all  the  kindness  of  friendship,  and 
in  the  midst  rf  convivial  freedom,  we  forgot  that  we  were 
St;  .Migers  7'he  glass  circulated  cheerfully  I)ut  moderateh', 
and  we  i'vAt  gratefid  to  the  country  w'.iose  inhabitants 
treated  us  with  such  gratuitous  hos))itality.     ^Ve   f-jun« 


1-  Vi.I,  \Nn,  HOI  I. AM)    \M»  -(  -"iTl   \M). 


'J  7 


iliat  1*1.  1" « .IS  ,1  .Noiili  liri;ii;i.  ;ri  i  ii:nl  h' '  ii  a  warm 

lii<ii,i  ■.'<  ill'-'  Aiui-iii  ail  r'Aoliiii'iii.  I  ill'  i"ii\,  .  ,;iti,iii 
I  unit  I !  II  [1(111  i(s  iiidst  intei'  ^tiii'_'  m-iius.  .iii'i  i  lir  w  jh'l'  i.nn- 
il\  uiTf  w  arni  in  tlifir  prai^e^  ol  W  a-li!i;';ti>!i.  l.i  -:i--\)  -n- 
'  i'.t\  II  u  a>  no  (|il}i<-iilt  tiiiiiL:  U>  (i*  tain  u-  !iil  a  la;>  ii'iir, 
.iiiii  w  iicii  ue  todk  (Uir  li  a\«.'.  it  u  a^  ',s  iili  \\  .ir;a  -ciicil..;  i'H> 
!iat  wi    wouhl  rf|)(  at  our  \  ivii. 

Mm/  l.i. —  I   r.'l- r  til.'  Liiiiiaia-.'   '<<'   Mr.  'i  \v.- iiav>" 


ivi'.'  il  III''  ('('11'  L'"'  "!  Maiii'lic^t'  r.       I  !if  Iriiliinj  i-  .m  aii- 

K  i!t    niiHi,i-hrv.    iK'U    ajij'iii)iri,i!>'(l  t)   th''    tiliaMrn'U    ui 

■'\'^Un\'ui'i  ii(i\  s,  \\  lit)  r>nia;ii  if  i  c  wnly  till  lli'  y  an-  Icur- 

■.('11  \^  ai->  "M,  and  ar^'  tlit-a  a|ijir('miccii   to  \. ;;!'■;;>  r.  i  i',' 

"III;  !(i\  MKi.t-. 

'liii-  (■(illi-jc  laintaiii-  a  \  .l,,;i'.l'-  liiM.ny  if  liiii  ■  ii  uui;- 
.iinl  \  ..!iiiii>  -  :  V.  (■  u  (ac  iiwt  ii.'W  I  \  ir  |ii  1  i:i'.i!  .!  Ii  >.,,'.•■  ,!;!\ 
.'mIsv  (i,  a  :i.  a^  1 1  It  A  \Mif  a!!  ■:•  it  iv'.c.i  :i\  a  1  I'.li.'f  >■!  w  \:r. 


i;, 


a  - .  I  i ■ 1 11 


thai  .■!  (Ml  II.   :U.  -.   ail  1  ai.i'Mi 


:iii -■■.    lilt  \    ai'-aiii    iiN  (   n  law  '  !,">    .^,'■•,7-/, '/:,    i:,u/  .^  r  ,,-//  ; 

'.].<■     |a'ia'-iliT     U    Iv     i'm   Jill.--    \\>\\     ill!  iii^llf.l    \\':]'\    '\Sn|(!-. 

:i  '1  I  li.r.  f  ^  ;'ii  laif  m  \  lui  i  a  ,i  \i  iin  ii  \\  a^  -1:  \\\\  ;^  li:-, 
I  111-  iMu  -  III  till-  ill -til  I  lli  I 'a  ;.i  I-  ill!  -M  .1  in  ilif  l;,  i  !i  ui'  jIh^ 
-I  \Ii't'i;;!i  fi  ii!;ii  \  .  \s  iia  li  i-  ,i  kii;  i  nl  jn  lliiiMl  i  a  iiluf  t  1 1  n  sc 
.  |ii;'i  w  iiii  .a  I'  i:!;.-!  ii'  ,';.  .iiiiaii.i  liic  Vi.aiNi.  'Hit  \  w  ■•: 
!-.  I  .1  ('.:  II.  -iiia  a  ^i'l  -1  i    |,ii  1-. I  I  I .;  ilii-  -,i;ac  lii.iti  m.iI--. 

I  111    \'  111  i.ililc  1  ililiic  w'aii  ii  ilii  \    iiiliiliit.    V',,!-  Ml!'  f  ll; 

,    liiiif    111     lliiiM-    lit  iMi!.   (j     ill   II.     -     \u:ii    lll.^'   l'..'      -t  r!,,v;.,ii     ;,.| 

.  an  II -t  III  I     ai'i  aa-  It  1  i'\     I'nr    jia  I\  .       1;     i>  ^il  la'i  .1    mi    i'- 
I'l  \    ji;  a'l'  \v  :iii  I   til,'  I!,  lai  lU^  l..ia  ,i  ^iiaiiai  r  ^!ai  m  'ii.      ( ''n 

■  !,•    ii'ia  1   -i'!'    n;  lia-  I  I 'A  11  .ii'i'  till'  It  main  V  i,i'  ,i  I'm  ,ji,,;,i! .'. 

■  '!!   It   (l.  ln;:_  ■;        '.i   tii  '   v.aif  uailik'-    |:('ti|,lf  :    th<     ua!!        I 

■    '1  .  '.  '> 


9S  A   JOL'RNAL    01-    IRAVEi.a    m 

in  some  places  tolerably  entire,  and  every  where  they  ait 
siifFiciently  distinct  to  mark  the  extent  of  the  camp,  which 
enclosed  about  twelve  acres.  I  broke  off  a  piece  of  the 
cement,  which  at  a  fiitiue  day  I  may  liave  the  pleasure  of 
shewing  you,  ibr  we  have  no  Roman  ruins  in  America. 

Near  the  college  is  the  old  collegiate  church.  It  was 
erected  in  the  fifteenth  century,  and  is  a  very  venerable 
remnant  of  Gothic  architecture.  I  shall  not  trouble  you 
Avith  a  particular  account  of  the  tombs  which  it  contains  of 
ancient  nobility ;  of  its  rude  corvings  and  statues,  which 
set  all  gravity  at  defiance ;  nor  of  its  grotesque  tapestry, 
nor  of  the  ludicrous  exliibition  of  seraphs  playing  on  fid- 
dles. Tlie  effect  of  the  whole  is  nevertheless  very  solemn, 
and  it  needs  no  great  effoit  of  the  imagination  to  fancy 
ones-self  transported  back  to  the  period  of  the  seventh 
TIenry.  Over  tlie  altnr  are  suspended  the  colours  of  the 
:5eventy-second  regiment,  a  part  of  the  army  that  so  bravel} 
and  successfully  defended  Gibraltar,  under  General  Elliot. 
Tiie  regiment  was  raised  in  Manchester,  and  on  their  re- 
turn, they  deposited  in  this  church,  the  banners  under 
which  they  fought. 

It  suffered  much  during  tiic  civil  wars,  being  then  in  the 
•ventre  of  a  fortress,  which  was  besieged  b}'  ih.e  Earl  of 
Derby;  for  Manchester  was  on  the  popular  s^itle. 

Mr.  T pointed   out  the    house  iu   which    Prince 

Cliaries,  the  Pretender,  lodged  in  lT-i~',  when  he  shook 
the  throne  of  the  house  of  Hanover.  Manchester  was 
warmly  in  his  interest,  and  I  saw  the  phice  in  the  public 
.-.quare,  where  the  heads  of  some  of  the  first  gentlemen  of 
ihe  town,  who  had  held  commissions  in  tlie  pretender's 
army,  were  stuck  on  jjoles,  and  their  (juarters  suspended 
on  hooks.     For  these  and  other  similar  barbarities,  (for  ^' 


>  Nui.  \Nn.  noi.r.  \Ni>  and  ->  -i  i  :  \Mj. 


W 


:>  li^'u  k»'r\  to  "'all  lliciu  wliolfsomc  ox:inijili~>  nl  .■..■\,  i  ily,) 
ill  NmiiIi  Uiiiaiu,  to  this  (la_\  ,  cxcrratcs  llir  mrniniy  of  llic 
Diiki  wl  ( 'uiiilx'iland,  mult  r  wh.xc  orii'T-;  tiit'>.o  o\!iil)i- 
liiMiN  wiTc  mailc.  TicaNnii  is,  undoulitciilv.  an  riKMnxHi- 
.  tiriH  .  iiiil  death  is  a  scllicicnt  ptiiiisliinciit  !  ir  anv  (ilicncr 
a'jaiiisl  socittv  ;  and  thi  :"<■  is  a  diL'nit\' in  in^tifc  that  i^  di>- 
.raicd,  l)\  \iolati(Mi>  nfii  human  I^iini,  which  i>r*'  i<jaiill_' 
,*tro(  inu>  .uul  laiirih'. 

li  is  iMi  N.M.dl  jii'itiiirali'iii  to  liiiil  a  l.i^lc  lor  NCirtit'e  m 
a  uii'al  ntannl.n  tiirir.:'  town,  w  liric  ihc  aia|uisition  ol'  [unp- 
1  ri\  i-  ilic  \i'i A  lui-.ini's>  oi  lilc  'I  he  [ihilrsoplijcid  soci- 
(■t\  oi  \Ianchfst.T  lias  taN'on  il  the  world  with  vcmtjI  n  ol- 
luiiiN  ipf  iran'^^ction-.  <'o,ii,dnin'_''  maii\  imi;.oriiint  and  in- 
li  ii~tiirj  \ii\"  I's.  I  \\(i  [i!iilo>o|)hical  nu'ii  ol  (dii-.id<'ra!)lc 
'ii^rinrtiiiH  ifsidf  in  ii  ,  Mr.  \\  d'liani  llmiA.  ami  .Mr.  John 
D.dtoii.  I  li.iM-  h.id  till'  ])li  a-iiic.  till-  lAciiiii'j.  ol'  houiiiLT 
III  iiiti  11  vliirj  liTiiirr  lioiu  ^lI.  Daltoii.on  <  Ircii  i<i!\  :  his 
slal'lllriilN.  \\  hicll  \vrii;\(|\  ji;  r-|)i(aio;|v..  \\  rrt  illi|v;i  ;'I(  i' 
!i\    -lA  i;  a!   %(  lA"    appo^il.'   lApi'i  illli'Ut^.        ilis    h'l  tMli'-loOlll 

,  ill  a  1  III! Mill"  lirliinL'iii','  to  til-'  )ihilosi)jilii(  al  socit  t_\ .  am! 
ill-  111  inn-  an-  'jin  ''ii  I'l  <  ili/,i  n-  ot  M  iiiid.i-icr.  of  \  ,u  imi- 
[aa-u,i-  ,iii.l  ol  holli  si\i -.  'I'll.-  iliiaiic  ojicmdaltln 
-  im'-  lauir  uiih  lii-  jrctiirc.  imt  ii-  alliai  lions  wtro  uoi 
■alli'  11  111    III  dra-.\-  ott"  a  convidiTal)!!-  iiiiailier  ol    \oimi:  la- 


\V  lio    COUII 


a  part  oT  Mr.  D.dioi 


1    s     ,1111  llfllll'. 


^Ir.  1  >  ill  on  (  xhi'ilti'd  OIK'  r\p' riim  iil  \i.  liii  li  I  lUA  a  r  saw 
■''>>ill  [>'  I  I'll  iii'd  111  loi' .  \  w-lrc  mado  srMial  'iicnii« 
-,:-■''  iu\  l;ir  I  )oii).  Ill  i;;  ■  .iltarlndfo  iho  wall;  it-  rinnM 
\i  i>  in;  -11  ioli.l  al  small  distamas  liy  ih,'  riittili'j  ot'  ill. 
•■  ■ "  :    ''.'■  '  ••  I'll  ',',  a-  do  k «  "I'd.  and  w  !ii-n  a  p"W  i  rliil  <  I-  ■ 


100  A   JOURNAL    OF   TRAVELS    lis" 

trical  discharge  was  passed  througli  the  wire,  it  exhibitea 
a  brilHant  corriiscatlon  at  every  interruption.  Mr.  Dahon 
belongs  to  tlie  society  of  friends,  and  a  considerable  num- 
ber of  them  attended  his  lecture.  In  speaking  of  him, 
ihey  adopted  their  customary  familiarity — calling  him 
John,  and  Jolm  Dalton.  Had  I  not  known  that  this  style 
of  sjjeakine  indicates  with  them  only  kindness,  I  should 
iiave  thoiight  that  it  little  accorded  with  the  respect  due  to 
so  distinguished  a  philosopher.  Mr.  Dalton  is  much  cele- 
Ijrated  for  profouud  original  views,  and  lor  judicious  and 
■;imple  experiments.  One  of  his  most  interesting  discov- 
eries is,  that  all  ieriform  bodies,  both  gases  and  vapours, 
'^xpand  equally  b\^  th.e  same  variations  of  tcinpcrature, 
uiid  that  imy  particular  a;'riform  body  is  subject  to  the 
same  law  in  different  parts  of  the  scale  of  heat.  Mv.  Dal- 
tuu  shewed  taetlie  apparatus  Ijy  which  tliese  very  interest- 
ing discoveries  were  made  and  estalilished.*  It  was  cx- 
ireinely  simple,  being  little  more  than  a  collection  of  glass 
iubes,  fitted  up  in  a  [.articulai  nmnner.  Indeevl  Mr.  Dal- 
foi;'a  apparatus  is  distinguished  raiiier  for  tlie  succfssfiu 
use  lie  makes  of  it,  than  fur  its  extent  or  variety.  Like 
!)r.  Priestley,  he  has  done  great  things  by  -^rnall  means.  I 
•^ouglit  an  iiilr!('i.,otion  to  Mr.  or  rather  Dr.  William  llen- 
iV.  hvA  !">  wa-  out  oi"  to'.vii,  which  deprived  me  of  the 
pit.-asurf  of  srciivr  hiin.  'I'hebe  gciri'euicn,  althouirii  no^ 
ny  any  mi  ans  ilw'  only  scientific  i!ir;i  in  Mauche>^k■r,  art- 
,::iiO!;i:;  Un'  ttjo-i  distiu^in^died. 

i'lip  ji'ie  iii-C'np:'y  \vf,s  liii.Je  by  ( ,a\  l.'i-'-iic  i^i:0;  at  Fan- 
;j!it  t;!t';-t:  is  lieci-ive  v^l'U-iiCv.  liifii  l!u..-t;  piiiki  :iij)!if!i-;  wei'c  i;;iio 
■  lint  oi  ciich  other--  r(;--o;ii'i:!:!,'v  .  iitiiJ  it  is  (inly  one  instance  anion;: 
i-aultitu'.lo  in  tiie  lii^;(oi'y  ot  iikmJi.i'ii  f:cicnce,  wlicre  the  :same  dii 
i  '"■\>'i-v  bu-  '  '(.•!:  mn.de  in  (iitiV-rt^i'  (.■■'iti'.rie^f  abonl  'b'.'  -yirn'  <i'nt 


l,.\oI.AM),    HOLLAND    AM)    *t  OTI   WD.  M" 

I  li.ivo  stMMi  a  review  ot"  stveral  rei:imeiits  ol  vuliniteer- 
lai'^t'd  ill  tills  tnuii.  aiiil  litld  in  reailiiie.--:  to  art.  in  eas'* 
t)l  invasion.  Tliey  aie  CdiiiiKisvi  [iiiiicipally  ol'  lueeliin- 
les  and  maimfactiireis.  liiil  'jrntliiDt  u  ol  l!i>'  hi'jliest  rank 
aiiii  first  toitmie,  e([iiallv  willi  tln'  lowest  ol  tlie  jieojile, 
|oiii  tlifse  luiliiaiv  associaliMiis.  Their  appearaiioe  at  tiie 
rf\ii'\v  uas  siicli  as  tii  do  them  miuli  credit,  alllioiii:li 
i1p\  are  lar  Ii'Mii  liriiiL'  sik  |i  perli'et  inaeliiiies  a^  recjlilar 
smMh'I's.  Till'  n  \  i.  \v  was  on  S;mda\ .  lut  ause  this  d<i\ 
dill's  not  iiiti  111  !'•  with  ihr  wirrk  of  the  .ntists,  \\  c  aie 
not  inlorin.',!  win  thfr  any  niililar\'  Ki  nnicnf/  iias  discn\-- 
(•red.  in  surnt-  ntwl\  rmnid  iiiaiuiseript.  sneli  a  i-eadiii'j  as 
this,  in  the  d.ecaloLme — *•  si\  das'^  shall  thou  l.dionr.  .iii  I 
■J!'-  si'vcnih  sh;dt  tlmu  train  ;"   iiowTxer  this  mav  he.  Siiii- 

i.a  d.rillinL'  is  siid  to  have  hreunie  irentral,  in  I.iil'- 
;.iiid.  s:n(r   till'  alarm  ol'   iM\asii)ii  iuis  tiniud  tie  in  into  a 

Mtii'!!  "\  s,,|,!ii-rs. 


lu  Ki:  (ir  i;KiiH,i.\v  \  i  kr  s  cvn  m. 

Villi  lia\'-  In  aid  ,<(  ihc  Duke  ol  Ih  id'^ewaler's  canal, 
iiid  will  ui  c.iins.  iMiii  hide  th.il  I  ha\  e  \  isiird  so  iiitr  rest- 
ing an  i.h;i  (I.  It  w;is  i-ni  ]\,\  tlie  s,d%i'  ol'  'irii;"_dn'j;  tin' 
Dnkt's  i-c  il  to  !:ds  ii"cii.  The  canal  coniiicls  Mancln  s- 
o  I  and  laNnjioMl.  ,iiid.  ;i;  the  distance  of  linily  niilcs  lie- 
tw'i'ii  !!;•■-(•  ;wi)  lowiis.  thrir  is  lint  niif  lock  ;  till'  canal 
]ir<  M  I  (  d>  on  a  I'Ail.  m  in  ai  Iv  so.  and  In  this  I'wA  it  |)frl'o- 
i.T'  -  hills,  .i;':  I  ,  |.,sv,  ^  \  alli\  -  and  1 1\  i  i  -,  '  m  an  Ins  lai-cd 
t'i'i  :;s  si)|i|i  '  ;  :  i'i\in  ci  .jsv,.s  tin'  iimi  Mersr^ ,  and.  ;it 
tin'  s.ina'  la  laur.r,  iinals  ina\  In  s.iii  |iassiin_'  nnder  tin" 
:ri  u  's  of  tf:"  can  i'.  aknij  lh'>  ri\ci  .  ami  "tlnT    hnaf-J  t'li.'t 


102  A  JOUI'.NAL  OF  'IKAVii-LS  IiV 

ing  over  tlic  arches  and  crossing  the  river,  as  if  in  tiie  air  : 
a  river  above  a  river.  Near  Manchester  the  canal  passes 
under  ground  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile ;  a  roof  is  neatly 
arched  with  brick,  and  when  I  placed  myself  at  one  end 
and  hallowed,  the  soiuid  was  reverberated  with  a  deep 
rolling  echo,  dying  away  at  length  towards  the  other  end. 
By  means  of  a  jmiction  witli  other  canals,  a  water 
coinmunicntion  is  opened  between  Liverpool  and  Hull, 
and  l.i\erpool  and  London,  and  of  course  between  Man- 
chester, Hull  and  London. 

ANCIENT  TYPOGRAPHY. 

May  14. — Mr.  Roscoe's  kindness  has  followed  mo  to 
Manchester,  and  made  me  acquainted,  by  means  of  a  let- 
ter, despatched  after  I  I'/t  Liverpool,  witli  a  friend  of  his 
here,  who  has  dislinguished  himself  b}-  collecting,  at  a 
great  expense,  a  rarr-  assemblage  of  ancient  and  valuable 
books,  and  of  uncommon  specimens  of  typograi)hy. — 
Among  many  varieties  of  the  latter  description,  he  shew- 
ed me  a  book  printed  by  William  C'axton,  the  first  printei 
in  oritain.  What  a  cliange  has  the  introduction  of  print- 
ing effected  in  this  island  :  The  era  is  not  less  important 
tlian  tliat  of  Ma<j;na  Ciiarta,  or  of  the  revolution  which  fix- 
ed the  British  constitution. 

Mr.  Roscoe's  i'riend  procin-ed  me  access  to  the  infirma- 
ry of  Maaciiester,  an  iiislitution  wliich  does  iionour  to  tlie 
town. 

f'OTTON  MANLF.\CTOr;ii:S. 

I  have  empi<,\eii  no  small  part  of  the  time  since  I  liay^ 
been  in  Manchfv-rter,  in  visitiii.g  those  extensive  manufac- 
U'riri;  c-.'-tablishmfnts,  which  are  th^'  wonder  of  t'le  world. 


i:N..i    \M»,   Hol.I.WD    WD   -((ill    \MI. 


I  (x; 


,ini    !in'    plhlr    n!    l'.ll_'lari(|.         Til-'     |)lu|.lii  I(ll■^    iia\f.   ill   tilt 

iiiii^l  liiii  r.il  .111. I  <ill«'iiti\c  lu.iniiri .  alfiiiiiMl  cmiv  lacil- 
ir\  uiiicli  cmiM  Liivf  111''  till'  I'lllfNt  \ir\s  cii  t!iii>o 
u.iiL>  thai  Iiiiiil>ii  I' I  ill'-  I  'nit'-ii  Slalfs  s,,  lai-ji'  a  piri  ni 
tlii'ir  clctliiirj.  I'lit,  all.  r  all.  I  liibl  \rry  liitli'  t'>  u  riii'  mi 
.1  Miii,.  ri  u  ii-  re  Mill  u  ill  lie  jinj  lai''':!  in  (x  pi  ■it  iiiii<-ii.  \n 
al!'-iiiiit  to  (I'.'-jcnlM'  til''  iiilrii  all-  !uai'iiiU''iy.  ainl  thr  ctni- 
(<[}>  j)i''"-i'--i  >  !i\'  vslii'li  "ur  i-i'iis  riiii'uc-  aii'l  cuiiiiMri  ai'c 
.  "II'  lit' il,  nr  "111  %aiiii_\  'jiatilif'l.  \v  "iiM  lie  IhiiIi  ti'ilimi- 
.  !  11^'-!'-^-.  l.\i-ii  \'.li'ii  "III-  i^  vi  III  liiii  a!iii.i>t  ill.'  ijiii 
"i  •'■II  tli"ii>ai!!i  -jhh.N  ;   iii'l  ilii'  ^- •-iii'iiiij  111  ,iN  in,iii\  ^Itut- 

tl'-^.   Ill-   lia>   v<-:i|  ,i-I>.    :iil\    .!lv'i:i.  t    (-.  i|  n ;  j;-r!  |,  n^iuii   ul'  the  in- 

^  III'-  wiiiiilt'rriil  ii'^iilts 


t'-ni'-iliali-    >lt 


hv  \v  liwii    n, 


jir.i.i'a-.NJ  :  aiiil  iii  i>'  !iiiii>i-l!  li.'Ci.n.'  \  w.-umt,  or  a  ^|)iii- 
in'i-.  !ii-|mi-i'  h,'  (-,111  '!.  Mil  M  aiiiiiii'-i  tin-  jnriic'iiiar--  ulilifsr- 
.-.friiiiii'.  I\  siiii|'ii  '11-.  N 'l  iiiy  iiiiiiic>>iiiii>  iia\ «'  imt  liet'P. 
ah"  ;'iii'  i-  t'Mi  \  ,i_ii'-  l..j  li,  -1!  ijiiimi. 

Ii  w  1-  a  ii.-\\   1,1'  1  !■!  Ill   .  I'lai  th'-  iiiii^i  liiMimrnl    ul'  tli'' 

;:iit-i-~  an-  v!aiii|i'  1  \>\  mk  an>  ul  riiji|)iT  (-\  liiii I.  i'-.  mi 
\siiiili  ill'-  riL'MH'--  an-  «  n_'i  a\  i-ij  :  tih-^f  cv  liiiiiri  >  a!-(-ciis- 
.ii'l    uiih    till    |iriip'-r  ^'iii>taii'-i'.  aiiil    tin  ii    i!iijirr-.^i'il   mi 

,■    -tiiiV-  liS'  r.iliiJiL'. 
'I  ill-    \i!\'tNar'-    \\ii\i-ii.    ,it    lii-i.    v.iihoat    aii\   cl"   tlia'. 
(l.i\\i,\     cii.iii,:'.    \\ii,.ii    laa'rv' -    lii'iii    M)    !Mi-,i>aut    \<i    ;!iv 

;c!|.        'I   11'     l';;  ■  ,'^>   \S  i;l'-:i  nn'    t"iMIIl>lhi-    ^1' lu.  ;ti-.   ii" 

l!i  -t  i!i-i  I'.  •'  .  ii.~'  '  Ifl  at  hmii  <  ,1,!-  la  tii'-  \ '  i  \  trxiiire 

•'r-    I  \  '111,      ■    ;■>   :  ■    ,)!.ii!i.''i    a    \  ;-•    iiahi','  c    "'    -iiiai! 

,  riiiin'iii-;  \i\  \''<\''-.  li'i'u   '  .ir  mi!  o\    ih^    jii,-!''    i;i   t!ic 

"'■1'  !.       'I  h--'-  '"■■j)-    ':■    ■  >.i   ■.■■.    Iiar.il.         'I  til'    '  Iritii  i>;  r\- 

Irii.j'    i  li'  :  i/.'iii;  ;!!  >    "  '.    1  ;  11.  II  ;;•-,    aaii    iia-    afti^l    in-.i'.;- 

1  ij  I,  .:  iln    I  H'ji-  .■  i    i;_'  -1' ipji  .'    ■>n!l'-.  i:iiii-li  ri'-'-iiKi.ip.i    . 

1  r-.-  (*.  I'c.i'i     V  wm-.i  :   '.\v<.  i':>':''-   1    !>v  <!!i      hi.:'  !       n  '■'■  K-^ 


CU4  A   JOURNAL    OK    TRAM::L&    iN 

pushes  along  so  dexterously,  as  to  cut  the  whole  series  ot 
loops  for  several  yards,  at  one  thrust,  without  piercing  the 
cloth,  unless  a  knot  or  other  obstacle  turns  his  instrument 
aside.  This  operation  being  repeated  along  every  thread 
in  the  whole  breaddi  of  the  piece,  a  shag  is  at  length  rais- 
ed over  the  whole  surfac  e.  But  it  would  be  very  rough 
and  inelesiant,  if  left  in  this  state.  To  remove  its  rough- 
ness, the  whole  piece  is  made  to  pass,  rather  slowly,  over  a 
red  hot  iron  c\ Under,  and  in  absolute  contact  with  it :  and 
during  the  whole  operation,  the  iron  is  maintained  at  a 
red  heat,  by  the  aid  of  a  furnace.  I  would  not  assert  a 
thing  seemingly  so  incredible,  had  T  not  witnessed  the 
process  ;  and  my  astonishment  was  not  less  than  your  in- 
credulity will  be,  provided  the  fact  be  new  to  you.  This 
operation  is  not  conllned  to  the  velvets.  Most  of  the  cot- 
ton goods  are  singed  in  llie  stinie  manner,  to  smooth  them 
for  the  final  finishinfr ;  and  tiny  assm'ed  me  (what  indeed 
a])pears  scarcely  credible^  that  the  finest  muslins  were 
treated  in  the  same  way. 

It  may  perhaps  assist  us,  in  accou)\!ing  for  this  very  sin- 
gular fact,  if  we  remember,  tliat  all  fibrous  substances  arc 
very  bad  coniiurtors  oi  heat,  and  cotton  is  among  the 
worst.  Air  is  a  siill  worse  conductor  of  heat.  The  finer 
the  fibrous  snl)stances  are.  or  \n  other  word'^,  the  more  air 
they  contain  between  their  fibres,  tlie  slower  will  heat  make 
its  way  through  them.  TSow  th'^^c  villous  substances  are 
presented  to  the  hot  hon,  entirely  covered  with  minute 
and  Ions  projecting  fibres.  Th'^  first  contact  converts 
the.,e  fibres  into  charcoal,  and  t:i:s  sul)stance,  especially 
when  very  dry,  'as  it  necessarily  is  in  the  ])resent  casc^j  is 
absolutely  one  of  th(-'  worst  CvMi'lriCtors  of  heat  know  n.— 
Thus,  a  thin  laye*  of  vfry  dry  ciK-u'co;-*!.  i^,  by  tii"  contac' 


IM.I.ANri,    HOLLAND    ANLl     >(.    1L\NU 


It'. 


uilliliu  ln>I  iii'ii,  in>-t.iritl_\  iiitri[)i>'-iHi  Ixlw  tfii  tin  ii"ii;iiul 
tlir  -iiii:  :  ai!  i,  all  tlicx"  citu^rs  coiiriiiriiij.  ili.'  -[iiii.  >lur- 
iii_'  till'  ■-iioit  time  that  it  i>  cxjid^-ril,  i>'iiiaiiis  uiihnii.  I 
II'-.  il  nut  ^av .  that  il  it  \vcif  to  inii.iin  ^tatimiary  a  imaiKiit 
It  wuiiM  be  i!<  >tro\til  :  as  it  i-,  iii'u  [lortinn--  ct'  stuli'  air 
t\cT\  I;i>iaiit  ci.iniii'i  in  cniiiaiM  uilh  ihf  luT  !!;M!.  ami  no 
oiif  ptali'iii  r.|iiaii|s  l,,n'_'  riitnijh  to  \)r  inpntci. 

'liif  UfW  I  furiNS  di  lilcachiii'j  i>  wow  i'\tiMisi\ .  1\  iiitlM- 
•iiii'i  li  at  ^la!l(■hl■>t'•I■.  aiiii  h  i^.  I  hi'h<'M',  !icari\  sii')\  i  i  tc. ! 
tla-  fl'i.  I  ii<'  I'll  arhiii'j.  wliiili  ummI  |o  .'(HU[>v  imuith^,  i- 
II'  'W    [a  i  I'll  aiT'l  iij  a  li'W  (ia\  >-. 

.Man'jai. !■>»'.  siiljihurif  arid.  \\;\\>  r.  aii:l  ia»iii!iinii  sdi.  n'f. 
;,la<i'i|  ill  1  iri!'-  Icadiai  sjilU.  liratnl  l)\  st''aiii.  \  \t  r\'  miI- 
i  "-alii!  J  iiinl  r.a  I  i>si\  i"  ;^a>'  rises,  w  hicii  is  iiiailr  t'l  p  iss  in- 
•m  u  at'-i-.  ha\  iii'j  ahiiiiiiaiicr  dt'  limt'  siisp,  lulid  in  it:  ih" 
!iiii<j  (■i)ni!'a;si's  tni'  L'as.  ainl  |iroihiia'->  uilh  it  the  hlrarhinj 
..1 1|_'.  iiil'i  a  s.,!ii;iMn  mI'  u  hich  the  lThoiIs  an'  phiirji  ,|.  and  '' 
I  A  .1:1  !'  ;  111!  u  ii'i  v^liit  I  ipidiis'  the  <ai!iiur  is  di-idiai 'jrd. 
"  ;'  \\i  .ik  ai  ;•!  is  iisualK  added  to  liheiate  the  hieachiii'/ 
jil  iia  iiile.  This     liielUMil     III     hleaeinilL;     is    a    disC.i\e|\     i\\ 

iii'Hlej  M  I  It.  :i!'st!  ',  .  and  u  h'-ii  \  "U  cai^idi  1  lii.u  ,ill  t!n'  (  'i!- 
iMiied  cuttMn  M'ili-  nnist  hi    liist    heaeh''!    hi  Inri'  ihe\  ean 

hi'   d\  I'd.    MM    Will    si  e   ,ii    ii||.  r    I  hi     "1  i-it    illlje  a  I   inie   III     th<' 

.oeii\ii\.  I  i;.'  s.e.iii'_'  |s  in  iiiiie.  i.,r  ihe  mat.  iiaU  ai' 
.nuri' ri.-li\  ih.iii  ih'i-''  1  nipluM'd  in  thi    nld  ua\. 

'I  h'-  ni.M  hinei  \  uh'a'i  I  s.^a  n-"d  ,U  M.inian  -'ri.  enn- 
-:-!• 'i  111  a  \.  ..i-l  I. III. id.  sh,.|ii  .|  •■\.;etK  'Ik'-  a  cininMa 
e.ijiiHi  si  ill ,  \',  iiii  .1  1 1  rill  \  I  1  111  ek.  \'.  ■:  M  h  |i  1  -I'd  iiit'i  ;. 
sal  nail  in:iii'j  sl.u  l.ni  linn  ,  1 ,  aia  '  . I  in  w  ,!.  |-  :  the  leader . 
\ '  -SI  I,  III, 'I    '  d   '.'.  i?h  I;!'    .ene.  ■■    II    :|ii  i-.I  -.    1-  li  V'.l  )!i    nr 


106  A   JOURNAL    OF   TRAVELS   IN 

sonry,  immodiately  over  a  cast  iron  vessel,  also  lixed  in 
the  same  manner,  and  containing  water,  which  is  made  to 
boil  by  a  fire  in  a  small  furnace  beneath.  The  heat  of  boil- 
ing water  is  sufficient  to  evolve  the  gas,  v/hich  is  of  a  yel- 
lowish green  colour,  and  is  not  only  very  suffocating,  but 
eminently  deadly.  Although,  in  its  gaseous  state,  it  will 
bleach,  it  cannot  be  used,  because  it  would  destroy  the 
workmen.  It  will  combine  with  water,  and  then,  espe- 
cially if  the  water  be  warmed,  it  bleaches  with  very  great 
energy;  in  small  quantities  it  may  be  used  in  this  manner 
witli  advantage,  and  will  ver}'  speedily  whiten  any  article 
of  linen  or  cotton,  or  a  tarnished  print,  but  without  affect- 
ing the  printer's  ink  ;  it  requires,  however,  alternate  im- 
mersions in  the  bleaching  liquor,  and  in  a  weak  ley. — 
When  the  bleaching  principle  is  combined  with  lime,  it 
becomes  perfectly  manageable,  and  ceases  to  be  noxious 
to  the  workmen.  It  may  even  be  coaibined  with  dry 
slacked  lime,  and  transported  about  the  country.  When 
this  drug  is  dissolved  in  water,  and  mixed  with  a  little  ma- 
rine acid,  it  immediately  becomes  active,  and  if  used  alter- 
nately with  ley,  imparts  a  perfect  whiteness.  This  elegant 
process  succeeds  equally  well  in  cloudy  as  in  fme  weather, 
and  it  restores  to  agriculture,  extensive  bleach  fields.  ]n 
point  of  principle,  it  is  \ery  nearly  assimilated  to  the  old 
process  ;  in  both,  the  colouring  matter  is  by  oxigen  render- 
ed soluble  in  alkali,  and  this  is  the  reason  why,  in  both,  it 
is  necessary  to  apply  this  active  aucnt. 

A  great  deal  of  American  sumac  is  u<rd  here  in  d\ing. 
I  learned  in  one  of  the  dye-houses  that  the  Vjnericaiis  give 
themselves  unnecessary  trouble  in  grinding  this  article,  and 
that  it  is  <j\nte  as  us^'ful  in  tlif  st;ile  of  leaves,  merely  dried 
ynd  |)acked   in   that   <-c>n()it;n.,.      rioSablv   th.ero   may  1»* 


KNiILAM),    HOLLAND    AM)    cioTLAM*.  ;  O; 

A)  miK  li  -iaMii;:  ill  rrtii:ht,  in  coiisimjikmhc  ut  L'liuiim.;.  as 
tu  pay  U>r  tliat  o[)frali"n  Tlif  iiiaimtaitoii.s  In  rr  arc 
\ir\  runiifri)iis,  ami  womli-rlullv  ('xtfiisi\c.  Suiui- ol  iti(  lu 
emplMV  twelve  liiimiri'ii  pcujilf,  luitwithst.nulin'^  llifapjili- 
catiMii  (il  tlif  >tt  ,1111  fiii;iin',  a>.  a  iiio\  iiiLT  [("Utr.  in  a'/ii'a' 
iniiltitadr  ol  the  i)ruc't'>MS.  Tlir  ((innn y  I'c.r  nianv  iiiilo> 
.irnin'!  M  iin'lif<t>  r,  is  trilmiary  lo  tlu'  jn-at  tMialili.-linuiits. 
>[)iniiinL',  \V(■a\illL^  and  ullicr  iJiclimiiiary  ojicialioiis.  ar< 
pt  I  !>>i  III"  il  ill  tin-  siil.i'jtN  ,111(1  ciittaiirs,  aii.l  llif  lal)ric>  aic 
i)i'  11. In  :i;tM  tiiuii  to  li.'  Hiu^Iitil.  While  I  u,is  ualkiii^ 
Willi  -"iiii'  cI  iii\  ^la^M'  coiiijiaiiioiiN  tlir<iii;:li  a  \i|!a'je  near 
\\  ■irriiij:iii].  ,i  -lim'.er  ciii-ni  u>  to  -<  .  k  ^li'lici  jn  ih.-  eot- 
•aj'  ^.  ;tlli|  we  iMiiii.i  I  IK'  jieojile  eiiljiloN  i  il  ill  Illl^  lliaillier  : 
lii'  11  a|)j.iai,iiiee  u  a^  ileal,  eliei  ih;I.  ,uiii  edml'oi  table. 

I  i;t    iioiiviN  well-  iH' It.  altiioiii:li  viii,!!]  [luiMiiiL's   of  oiu 

■NTS,     \>ilUe      vva^lirii    ,in,i     (  |e,ill     uililili:     tin'     people    \\llO 

■A,  ;,   ,11  ui'ik  .ii  till  ir  ^pialil<■■^  .iii'!  Iooiiin.  \\<ir  Tpiils  dii--s- 
r,!.   i;,-!  I  \^  .iv  Ion  i!,!\  >irin  k  w  iili  the  e:\  iliix  iiinl  dt  h  i  enei 

-ir   '.'.li    111    ii,'   O    -['11  rji     and    Ill.tlllH  f".    r\arl!\     Ilk''    '-■'lue    nl 

ii,'-e  jd'iiii  uiiid'iiti  iMli'd  l.tiLlli-'li  \eoiiiaiii_v.  uiiom  we  of- 
■a^io'  a!l\  >t  1    ill    Nnieiii'a. 


^Kl/K  II  "T   M  \\(  lir-  I  i  i: 

'klii.riii -I.  r  i-  Iniili  pr!!ieip,il!\  of  Inick  :  tiie  iiK.d-ri. 
!•  ;-■  -  .lid  -iM-els  ;ire  -p  leioii-  ,illd  liaaiUome,  Irit  the  ail- 
i-'iii    -!iiiiv  an    iiaiio\'.  .    and  the  Irii'-ii:".'-  imaa.   niiiio'as 

.    di':   Hid    wi'll    -Ulo'.,i'.  It    (.iji:    li!;v    I'.'lMli'l'iill-    eilMK  111'-. 

'.    -    :ia-  uiiii  aiif  ,i!id    hi'  lai'v   ii>!i;  .;!•  m-  :     it  i  lupji'ys   a 

.1  put  oi  ;i  p..j)iiiaiioii  ol  rmiii  1  :j',!\  I'l  niai  l\   liionvami 

uhaliil  I'll-.  Ill  iiMliii!  '.I'liii  inj  e,,lloii,   ,i,iO   i  ii  tliT  \  a  i  ioa•^  iiil- 

'.    --I  -  eomi,  111  d  w  iih  tiii^.      Tin    tow  II  -land-  on   a  pi  lin. 

'■  '•:  >-  •;:•■•■    -aia!;   ;:■■■  r-  Mil! ;:;':.'  1m:'l''i-1i    i.  '\  h"  j    ■;'■'' 


108         A  JOURNAL  OF  TRAVELS  IN 

areat  conveniences  to  it-  manufiotur''i5  eitablis'irapnts.— - 
The  names  of  these  rivers  are  the  Irwell,  the  Medlockj 
and  the  Irk.  The  manufartiirers,  who  are  of  both  sexes, 
and  of  all  ages,  appear  generaiiy  pale,  thin,  and  deficient 
in  muscular  vigour.  The  fine  fibres  of  the  cotton  irritate 
their  lungs  ;  and  the  high  temperature  necessary  in  most  of 
their  processes,  together  with  constant  confinement  in  hot 
rooms,  and,  more  than  all,  the  debauched  lives  which  too 
many  of  them  lead,  make  tliern,  at  best,  but  an  imbecile 
people. 

The  wages  of  the  labouring  manufacturers  are  high,  at 
present,  but  so  few  of  them  lead  sober  and  frugal  lives, 
^hat  they  are  generally  mere  dependants  on  daily  labour. 
Most  of  the  men  are  said  to  be  drunkards,  and  the  women 
dissolute. 

How  different  these  scenes,  where 

"  The  pale-faced  artitl  plies  the  sickly  trade,'' 

irora  our  fields  and  forests,  in  w  liich  pure  air,  unconstraiu- 
•""d  motions,  salubrious  exhalations,  and  simple  manners, 
give  vigour  to  the  limbs,  and  a  healtldul  aspect  to  the 
face. 

1  am  not,  however,  disposed  to  join  those  who  rail  at 
nianufactmcs  without  informing  us  how  we  can  do  witliout 
them.  I  am  hilly  persuader!  of  their  imj^jortance  to  man- 
kind, while  I  regret  ilie  jihy^ical,  and,  more  than  all,  the 
moral  evils  which  they  produce. 

[/iv<M"pool  is  the  second  town  in  England  foi'  foreign 
i-(;!niner('e,  and  Manchester  the  second  for  population. 

To-;e  viTow  morniiii:'  I  shall  lea  'e  this  town  for  the  I'cak 
of  I'^-i'A.-^iare.  where  I  mav  be  detained  a  day  or  tno  hv 
'l':  Rjiner.'iJ  curiositJC:. 


1N..I.  \M).     II'MI.VM)     AM)     -(Cyi     ^•^i,.  ]  (  !•  / 

Nl\   ctiuiiMiii'U:,  >Ii.  i! .    iia\jij    ini-iin  ^•«    in  tin- 

i..>iihi  I II  iiKiii  ilai'tiir'nvj  I'l^'.  M-.  a:iil    mH  .  aim.    i.i  U'  ^■'i  i;.t 

Willi  111''   ilil>i   llinir>  ,i.h1   I  .;',  .  I  ii>-,   w  ::i    li    i\ .    I.li    :  >  <-t\,  ■TVvW . 

ami  ilipart  i,m  N  i  i  k>lii.<'.  •>•.  iiilr  I  I'.ii-i  .i,\ki-  i.i\  w  a_\ 
alna-:  liut,  alllmiijli  v .  a!  ii  \  .  I  --liai!  j"  i'i''",!ii"\  i  •• 
's  ani.  la.i    ]■  r\  Mi-|..i~i  .1  (■  i  a.l' i;.i  t  'a   ]•!    'ml  :\ '    -la' 

■    K'Hi'i'i-.  iir.iiv  Ml!''''.   . 


\  ,.  \  i._,i()i  !{^l:^  h)  'ci:::  i'i:  \w. 


.(,  ra'.l-  ■    I, 


t;llii.    I 


.,    ,/    :  .■.  —  I  1,1'-  i.i.as;:i.  .    al   li\  '■  1    >  ...   \.    1    .     :     \I,.i.- 

■'-■'■:.   Ill    lih-     -!a'_M'.     I.i     !I,,\!m;;.        'i   a'     i   aXlI'M!-   ci    aiail- 

:i'  -|i  r  a|'i  I  ii'ii  li  111' :~i  lai' '.  Iii.jii  i'li  ■  iiaai'i.  ;■  i  !  v.rW  laii- 
i\  ..:■  I  1 1'  !  !•-,  ai.l  II'  a;  In  a.-i  -  :  ij.  i  ;  v.  .i  n,  ;  ai  c  r  inr.  la-i■!- 
:  a'ar  \  i!ia  _  .  ^  (,<  iMi  ;  ■  ■:  i.i  I  !!■■.,,-;,  a  a  ■  1.:  -■  •>  a  (ill  -.  \'  lai'Ii 
a...  -Ill  i;^  la  ,'^in,  i.|,..M  ,,.,  ;!,r  \i<  ;  ■  -  ^  .  -I..'  a.Mcal  is  a 
■  iiM-!    :.;M.'    .aai.  al     Im',   a.    hriii     i.;    1,.  ;.  ;..      'i  i,,  i,^    ;,,a- 

aa'  _ \  ii.ia-'  -.  !ial   la  <-\  n|    ila  la    iir  i:'aa\  .  •!  ami  li.  -- 

■'     1   I    l.'aal  \  .  i  la-   Ii'\K  II    i;a  >    a    i  lai  -         ,  a.ail  .     - 

n     "I  '■'<■]■  a  aaii  ja  iui-  .1  '    '•■'.-.       Ii   ^l..\.<l     .■.....■    .a  m:\ 
-■    a   hi;!,  aiai  li  i>   a   !.,  .'i    ■    n\  .  r  l'  .■    ^!'  ,  -    \  .  w  ia.  ii  \^ , 
''  '\'.  li  i.j'  ii;   !  i'  1    .  ;  I  la  .  V.  la   lia    i.;,-'  ,  ,  ..''tia'  la  ':r  '.-. 
\  -1  .   '  Id 


ilO  A  JOCUNAL  uF   rilANELS  IN 

When  we  ioi't  Majichoiiter,  early  in  the  morriiiig,  tiit 
sky  was  cloudy,  and  the  weather  threatening.  On  my 
j^-ettin;i  into  the  coach,  a  .stranger  accosted  me  very  civilly, 
and  remarked  that  it  was  a  fair  tnornhig.  I  bowed  as- 
sent, ahhough  I  couid  not  comprehend  how  such  a  morn- 
\rx2  could  be  considered  as  fair.  Ikit,  in  the  proirress  ol 
our  conversation,  1  found  tliat  he  considered  every  day  as 
liiij-  V.  hich  is  not  rainy.  L'tliis  use  of  the  word  be  general, 
it  indicates  thai  tiie  freo.;;ep.t  rains  in  this  country  cause 
ilicni  to  assiniie  a  lower  standard,  oi  Hne  weather,  than 
\*  ii.'it  [jrevails  in  climates  where  the  sun  shines  more  con- 
■,tanliy. 

.It  Stockport  we  crossed  the  Mersey,  and  entered 
L  heshire.  The  weather  becoming  what  I  had  been  ac- 
(•ustoined  to  consid.eras  fair,  that  is,  the  sim  really  shining 
iorth,  i  was  induced  to  take  a  seat  on  the  top  of  the  coach 
with  tiie  giiard.  Most  of  the  Knglhsh  stage  coaches  travel 
with  a  guard.  lie  is  armed  with  a  blunderbuss,  or  more 
conmsionly  with  j)isto!s,  \\-l:ich  arc  fixed  in  holsters,  con- 
nected with  tiie  top  of  the  coach.  To  tlie  duty  of  defend- 
ing the  coach  he  is  rarely  called  ;  for,  since  the  |)racticc  of 
t;av<  lli:ig  v.ith  a  euard  has  become  general  in  Lnglan(i, 
the  sta.gc  coaciies  are  seldom  attaa'ked.  besides  ^^'iiarcHne 
the  coach,  he  is  expected  to  open  am!  sliiit  the  door,  and 
aid  inciise  of  accident,  so  that  the  coachman  is  never  call- 
ed uj)on  to  leave  his  seat,  and  the  passen-jci-s  arc  not  often 
exposed  to  the  danger  of  haviiej;  the  hors(\s  take  friL:Ii!. 
v.ithuLil  juiy  one  to  comnuuul  tlu;  reiirs.  Our  cu.stoin  in 
Americii  is  \erv  ba.d  on  thi'<  point,  tor  tlie  dri\'er  !"re- 
quently  h^avrs  his  seat.  ;i)ulthe  horse.^  arc  rarely  lied. 

'1  li;'  !■'.ngli,^h  I'nard   sii.>   on  a  seat,  elevated    nce.rlv  a^^ 
hi'jh  a^   the   u■\^  (ii    il,c   ci>arli.      it    j-    nvea!l\  ^^ed    en   h 


I..    1   I     \M)     AM' 


.in  !i  ill.'  r.ii.i,"..'  'i<  -:i,ij  >;i''(!.  \  -imi:  .u  Ij.'wi  i^  iiM'd 
''.  ...  .ilii  ill  ■  iM.n  iiiiMii'v  -I  .il.  .iil'i  ir.  111.-"'  i\i  M  Iwi'  !'.  .J-.-i'.r 
.  -     ;i)\^  I'.i.  ,11,'i   .:s   I  111'   \\  ';im'..'   i".  1  ,  i|ii.n.:nl '.  i.;i  -i  .1  !i. .  ^   I  lit 

ji.nr.  !-    .-.-.i,!.'    Willi    I'l'li-    il'iwv,         ^    III,:       |p|'I    .11    ll,'-     ii.iu- 

•:■_>■!-  .>'i  11!  \   r  11  rii'i!  c'.i  liii'  1(1.    .       1.1    i.ii>\.  ,r-.  ,    l,.i\il- 
'..\   !    i)_'i-ii    M.i,.'-.  ..\  111'!  ilii'  \  uv  i;  I  ■  ,l>|i  -II  1;.    liiiiilji  :' 

'.      ill',.   l_i     is:    liir     l;l-i:!.'    ..i'    111.     r.'.li'il'V     \'.  lllcll    \'.  (■     Jill     -.u 

.    '.  !;  .iii!ii\    ■;  '       \;;;.  r;'     1    -;■'_'-.       I;:    iIm    •  ■[  '  'v  .-..r..  i- 

:  .  ■   ,     '  i,    .  .!i'-  ail!  ...       .'  —     ,     1  -  l,\i  ,i  iij..  '.1 

..■    ii  ■  :,.    \\  I  ,  .  .   w  .; !,.  I  ;i    ."'  \    i:!'.  :a  lu:    '1,  '  '•  -  .   i;>  J  -.  :.M'l 

■I';-  I'll';.  .Ill-  ■    \'  :.  ■ ,    i'lil-  '1.   ,. 'Ml! il ■!.,'■.    .:.'    ;.m!i'-  !i  1  li-v 

-    I-    i!:-l.i:i;l\     \Vi.li-i'  .;   .Ijl'l    rll  ill  il.         'I   ii"    .,,  I-...:!!!;    ■   '.lilnii-i 

'  ■  I. ..'. .  Mi,.:  .:: .'    iiiiv.    w  nil.;.-.  !,.'!i_»    .J    .!i   ill   I    ...  i    1,1'..    !i    ; 

■  1   -\     .11.'     I   1     r.  .Ill]  'ii;  :i!  i\  .  j  \     1 .  .  .  :i!  <  .1  i  _  !u  .          \  ^    :     !,..-... 

in;  '■  |ii;i;'ii..|-  u  ;l!;  •  ■;.  Ill   I   III-  \    I  i. 

'1  !,.■    '-i,:.!  '1  il..  1  (-■    ..  ii'il.lll    .    •   •>■  I  .;     i.N    iii  '     -'  |-'>  ..'..;-    ;  I 

.■ .!.  !■-  r  '.  1 1  ■.-;  lip    1-  ;-     iii  Ii  li.  ii;.-t  i.i-.  i  .i'   I  ..il-  :- .!!..  'I.;  .  iiic 

.:  iiir  _    ■    I   .    i.  !!   :     1    .  \  .  1  \    !  \'  .  1;;  \    .■.     I  -..  i-lM  \    ll\  r    I.mI.-^  :    il 
'-il"l     111  .■'---  l|-\     t.i     :   M-i  1-   '      I'li-    ii     ill.      lii-l.llirr     Im-     lllil-lv 

.ml.  >.      r.ii  i\.:-\   I  i',',.!.  Il  11.    .'1-  111;.  1  Ii  |],i!l-•^  li..'   ^iiiii   I.: 

-i\l..   !1.|'     i-     U-Iliii-,      'iN.Ii.         'I   lli>     l.i\     j.     il  I   \  ii.ilii-.     llliil 

\  Mil  111  ,ni~.  Il .  'Ml  I -.  I,,  'ill  II'  1   I  -I  I  ill  .-.  .i.iii  1  \  .  ,iii.  i  ii-.ir  I  if  !:i  ill.. 

•  il..'l'.'!l!     111.  ...1.     Ii-il.i!l  -.      |,,i\      mi.       ll!ii   I    .ii\     ill, 111     li.c     I     :- 

ti\l'-. 

Ill    i.i.i-    ]ii--,i-i-    ;.-|.i—    :i  ciii-iii-i-    1,1    (   'i"-iiji '  .  w  I-  I  ,.,|i' 

fiii"''-:ii     I)i-1.  \    .iii'l    s,,:,ii-    i,iii.  r    h-i  I'li-i  I.  I  .li.l''   vill.,-.s. 

i";ii'  jii  il,.  ip  ,:]■%   ..I  il  riii|.-  |.   nil -11  .  "'m.i:    .1  si,,!,,.,    Iml  li.u  - 

I  ■     I    iiii.i    1-1. Mil  .ii'iM'    .111"  .ir.i.n  .-.       \\  .-    il  .i\  I  iji  .1 

.•  li, :■--:■    I  '    11.;:  ■■  .  ;,r'i-j    -'    .-  i.l'  ii  r.ni.il.  w  i.i'  li 

•    '  I   '  i;  -M\  11    !  \    li.  I  -.  s. 


ll^  ,t    JOUnXAl.    OF    TRAVELS    IX 

'.vere  passing  on  the  canal,  and  in  one  place,  we  saw  it 
':ro.ss  a  river  on  arches. 

Hills  of  great  heiglit  and  extent,  were  all  around  us,  and 
Perbyshire  with  its  mountains  was  immediately  on  our 
left.  A  few  jrroves,  planted  by  the  present  generation, 
./ud  a  few  fine  pastures  appeared,  here  and  there,  on  the 
fiills,  but  ihey  were  generally  very  rude  and  barren,  cover- 
ed, for  tlie  most  part,  with  a  kind  of  brown  heath,  so  thick 
and  dark,  that  they  apjjcared  as  if  the  f-re  had  passed 
■4ver  tliem; — you  can  conceive  of  nothing  more  desolate 
rhan  the  a->pect  of  these  liills  ibr  miles.  It  is  to  be  presum- 
i.'d  lliat  Dr.  .Tohr,;  on  never  travelled  here,  or  he  would  not 
i'lrive  discovcved  so  iujich  s.Jeea  at  the  nakedness  oi'  the 
Scottish  moMOtai:;?. 

'I'hc  Villi!.:.;  anioiiq  tli'.so  Iilll-i  were,  wiili  few  cxctMi- 
fHon;-,  fertile,  ;inu.  in  msuiy  iplaces,  the  heights  wen^  all 
Y,i;ite  \\ilh  heaps  of  lime,  phu'ed  on  tiiem  as  a  maiuirc. — 
l.'iu'  vo;i([s  wccc  gvMicraliy  good,  but,  !br  a  tew  miles  along 
■  i;ecan;i.L  th'^y  vi're  indinVrciU.  '"letu-een  eiiyht  and  nine 
,p"cloek;  ve  ,::ri-,ed  at  Kiixtoii,  whicli  is  Just  witlnn  the 
:'i,i(i'5  of  S^ibys'iire,  at  the  li-n  di'^uiiice  oi'tweuty  two  and 
,1  ii  dfji'iK-'s  frwi;!  Asancl::v'er. 

lAl'i  !V;KJN   to  'iUD  T'l'AK. 


]•  iiidii'g  tn:'-f  j'u.vton  wouli!  bi>  nil  advantageous  point  ol 
li'parture,  in  my  conten^.platc  d  txcursion  to  tlie  Peak  of 
Dcibyshire,  I  (iejjosited  my  bi'.g.'ia'ii'  at  the  inn.  relin(iuish- 
'.■'!  my  srat  in  the  stau*',  w  iiich  wa-;  uoing  forward  to  Derby, 
':!0U:it(>!;  a  i.ofS'.;rit  ten  o"cio''k  in  the  morning",  and  set  ibr- 
\vai(i,  ':n  ■i  iiU:"  jouriiey  froi;i  v/liich  I  expected  nuich  grat- 
iriCatiou.  1  li'iui  l(!n<j  v.  ishcd  to  explore  some  of  tlios*;  dark 
jecesses.  where  llu'  (.'reator  has  hidden   the   treasures   o'.' 


:iio  inirpiM!   uiii'_''li>iii.  ail  1  tu  >ri'.    u.lii    u\\   nwii  f\fv,  tir 

., !  ,  .     1  ••  ii;.  lit    1   1     -I  ,■,;•,..   I'l.-   j::. sit  lull   nl'   s],:;..   ,;i,:!    ci  \  M.ll-- 
:ni.,  ili'-  i:;iniiMl  ^lair  «'!  lli«'  iili  I.i'lir  vri;i-. 

I  IkhI  til'"  ;iil\:iiii.i'j'''  ''I  a  il<liL'''.nul  ii.i\.  ail!  v.!;''!  an 
I  ,n)i'\  iioiinaiili  Mil.  h>  Itiii'j  lia-  L  ,:ii\  int.  i<'-.Iii,'_'  ti;i;;_'- 
wliK-'ii  I  mi  jilt  Ini.i  in  ill:' iniiu-..  I  (■iaiiai.Mi'''>l  my -■-lii-,, ;. 
|iimiM-\.  \\\  i.ia'l  ua^(lVl■|■a  \riy  liiil_\  r.  i!,;i;i  \ .  aii' '  a;- 
\i  r  iiavMiiL'  li.c'  ii  iiuli  t  «i|  I'j'uI'kM.  lla-  lull-  In-  Mi.a'  ai"!-- 
l'i'',|aiMi!.  vi.'i'p  ;i;i,l  li,l'i\\  'I  in-  \\  a\  w  a<  ri;  calMaN.  \^  ma- 
il;.' Ill  -|iiiaU.  arm, an  lia'  lnii-.  i..'-t  ni  \\'ii..-ii  w.-ro  \'>< 
Nil  ,  j,  til  ailiait  if  a  liiii  '  t  a-'  i  i,i.  ia  (•.,'■  \i\  ■.rr  tlir  |,a:.') 
Icil  nil'  iilmi':  tlp'riia'  (i|  a  jU' rijiirc.  w  iilra  liiraa  1  ni.' 
-iili'  (if  a  (!'■'  ji  jair  Ix  ts\ !  '11  [\\  '<  iii"'aa;  (i'l-  :  —  a  l''ia«  -.  i>- 
araii'd  nil  irum  t!a  \  nji'  <■!  iiii-~  al  ii  apt  \  alji'i  .  \\  liic!i  n\  a  > 
mil  liiiiiiln  (1  ami  lill\  !■  i  i  v.  m  li;naii  r.l  a  •!  lir  i,.  ai.  i  \\  r.';:;.! 
il-  \v:i\   all  in.:  i h  t 'u  i  a  1  In-  mmiiii.iii!-.  ], .  a    a  ■  ai  ■ii-:,aaa'. 

1  '■iiM'i  n  iilir.i  'iiai^vM!!.  a  i 'ai^iaM  nl,;,'  \  ;l:;«';i'  i,i  a 
I  liai  iiiin  J  \  .  a  .  i  \\  a-  a -a  mi:-  li  ■•  I  !  i  -■  ■■.  in  t  i.;>  •••';!  ;•  ,  i 
'iM  Ii.  a  i;  a  aii'i''t  i;i  '  mMii  '  rina.  li .  in  laa  ;  a'.  --T'.  a:  ion. — 
ii  \\a-  !m.  ;  m  i';  '  itiri  ill'  la  ilii'  I'l'ii,'.'  ,  ;,;ii  r'::.ni\.  and 
jauim--:  ■■  1  1  -ia  \  IS  I'  111  la'.    m  i;  r  an  ■  i-  ;  a  -I:  laa  :;  •  -. 

Tin-  (  anirii.  w  a;;  all  ii:i    hn;:-'  ^    in   tin'  l.i'^-.  a.   an-i    iu- 


'  !  ana  -!■ 

\  1     \  .  '  -v.  ■  ■'..  ti..    (iiaatrs     i  •     ;  'a'  v.  (  i  •    :  ■                       :,I  ;i 

■  1  :  •      |i'    cI    -u  a;-'  v,  1  ii    '  ■  :i-  '  !•    I  ai  .i  jaii !  iv'al  ii 

I' '  aa  ,  !■.  aa'  I.  1  a;  ma  :i'  '  .  !  1  ■am  I  :  a  :i  f'li".  w  I  1  !■ 

■  •    III''  mil  iinia        \-   I  a..-.aai»il  Im  \m;,!  'I'ii!'  -- 

,^  >  !'.   I   .  mnai  ina-  ;..a'a  -  la  '.ir    c  iialr\   |m  n|iir.  lin  -  - 

»■  :    '   !  --ii      ■  i  ■»    rl.alir-.  .iiai   J' am'  to  alli":-!  the  1,;  l  .— 

la,,  r-  a  imi  \\  i',.!  -i\  '-i  ,•]  m'  t  ai  in.  a  a' i  :    .:,'', 

■    :    .    aijini;.      'I'ia'\   -;«•  ,i\-   iiii     l.iia  i.  .:>■  w  ij* 


U4  A    JOURX.SL    or    TRAVKLS    li,\- 

tiiaiiy  peculiarities  ofpi-oiiunciation,  and  with  a  consiclera- 
bie  number  of  words  which  we  never  hear  in  America. — 
Their  dret>.s  was  (juite  as  decent  as  tliat  worn  on  similar 
occasions  by  the  same  class  ot"  peojjlc  with  us,  and  their 
iDanners  inciicated  cheert'ulaess  and  contentment.  I 
bad  never  seen  any  tiling  in  my  own  country  resembling 
the  scenery  whicii  now  surroimded  me.  Lol'ty  hills,  or 
rather  mountaiiss,  ap]>eaied  on  every  side,  sloping  with 
an  ascent  ratiier  gentle  tiian  steep.  They  were  barren, 
rude,  and  (hvary,  v/idiout  a  single  shrub  or  tree,  aiid  divi- 
ded to  the  very  summits  by  enclosures.  They  were  tree 
from  rocks, — no  hedges  wt're  to  be  s(~en, — but,  ever} 
where,  stone  wails  precisely  like  those  which  are  so  com- 
nion  in  New-Mngland.  Lim(;stonc  is  universally  the  ma- 
terial of  tlie  j'erices  and  Louses  ;  it  is  dug  out  of  these  hillsj 
which,  with  a  vast  tract  of  country  around,  aoipear  to  be 
Ibunded  upon  tb.is  ba^is.  After  being  buir.ed,  it  is  used  as 
a  nmnur(~,  ant!  many  ottlie  hills  which  1  passed,  were 
covered  with  it.  On  examining  the  fences,  rocks  and 
stones  of  the  ro.ul,  ihe  limestone  appeared  universally  id- 
led with  sIk'Us  of  marine  origin.  These  shells  are  perfect- 
ly distinct,  and  lie  b/. bedded  in  the  solid  liaie  stone,  so 
that  v,l;!'n  one  is  knocked  out,  a  perfect  eopy  of  its  tbrm 
is  hM't  in  the  cavity.  :\ear  tlio  Peak  the  bills  wer,'  e\  er\ 
wl;(-r(>  pierced  with  p>i;s,  wbWh.  as  1  was  informed  by  a 
man  wiio  w;is  dig;jna-  liiiK'stone,  wereh'ad  mines. 

1  disie.oinilcd  to  exi.'virie  one.  No  person  was  there. 
Theop(Mnng  of  t'le  m;no  was  down  a  j)i'rpe:ulirular  cavi- 
tv,  waiie-l  up  liJve  a  well,  through  which  the  people,  imple- 
ments, and  ore  are  convex*  d  in  luickets,  woikod  by  ma- 
chiiier\.  A  vast  in  ap  of  rubbish  was  l\iiiff  around  the 
fnouih  of  the   n'ine.     .iNiounun;;'  mv  horse  aaain.  1  soon 


FN..I.  Wi),   HM(,[.  \Nn    \M)    -'.111    \Nt>. 


iiii\<ii  :ii  ill--  siiiiimil  <>\  .1  liill.  (ii'Wii  u  liM-li, ,!«.  I  (l.^rniil- 
nl.  an  t-Nt.  ii>i\f  \  ,il!i'\  .  nil  'jinn  ami  li-i  lilr.  |mi  im  i|  a  --iii- 
[iii-iii'i  ami  iiiitTi -iii|i/  ,-,,iiiia>i  lo  the  niilr  -fi-m  i  \  mi 
wiiii  ii  I  had  mivv  iiini' cl  iii\  liack.  I  luiiii-.i  ilu-  \allr\- 
ii'H  li\  til.-  ii>iial  ri'a-!.  Itiit  \)\  <n\i-  laitln-r  ca^I  :  llii^  "  im 
111''  a  \  ii-u  ci'  the  \  i!!a.'!-  (.1  !  li|i'-  (111  II I \  I  i.  JM,  w  liili'  (  a^- 
d'-lMii.  t!i''  '.ii-at  cIimti  111  WW  litirm"-.  apjii-ari-ti  uii  niv 
Lit. 

•  •"'-..:'   i'i<-  lir-t    (i!);.-rt^  \v 'lii'i   '-t:  ir'^  im-.    im    <  nt(-iii!i_ 
till'  \.illi\,  v\a^    ail  am  i>  ut  r.>li.  .  ii  all  !iii)ki-ii    WnWii.   aiul 


ipj  lai  1  ii!l\    ti'tl    I  lau  t'l  il>  I. 


Ii    --laaav    imi  urn-    d    ihc 

Ml'Man  !i!i-.     Il|i.ii|     lii.     \ry\    ri'.-     ,i|     ;i    j.iiL.    nl    innic     tliail 

tv,  1  iiiia.ai  il  ami  I'au  i.  i-i  in  p.  i  ]  n  mm  iilar  lai'jlil. — - 
'I'ia  !'■  1^  mi  !••  ilaiii  ao  iima  ,.\  j;.  i.n.jin.  It  is  s:iul  Ic 
liiNi     lurii     km.\v!i     tn    il|i-    lliiaiaii'.    iiikIii'    (lie    iiaim-    nl 

\i\    i>::!i>ili.    and    a a,-     it-    niiii^.     Itoiiian    '..in-,    aii'i 

ui.  ;  -;U  hi\.-  i;.  I  II  l.aiml.  Il^  \sa!K  an-  .-I  In  a  •~tiiii.', 
aii'i  a-  ill.  II  is  ii<i  sii.iir  ca'  lliis  .!fs(-|  i|aiiiii  oii  ila-  iii-ain- 
t.iHis.  ill.-  ca-l!.-  iiiUs!  Iia\i-  !m  .  II  >  oiivirai  In!  wiili  \asi 
laliM.ii  aial  .  Vj.i  iis,  .  \t\  r.iisa'.'  Iia-  malrii,,U  nj.  liii-  iik'Iiii- 
I  iiMs  lr..iii  l!i<-  \  al!c-\  Im|ii\\.  Till- cisil.'  is  n..\v  aM-nrra- 
f>'.-  run.   ai.'i  i'\\i-   :  n  am'-  n.  th.-  \  iIKi'j.,-  ul  (  a.stlrtiiii. 


llC  A    JOtrr.NAL    OF    Tru'vVF.L-i    iN' 


Xo.  ^  JI  — THE  PEAK  OF  DEiliil SHIRE. 

Castleton— Tiic  winding  gp.te— VsiUcy  of  Castioton  and  the  sur- 
rounding  nionnlaiiis — Ancient  fosse— Caftlf — .Main  'i'oi- — Its 
ruins — Anecdote — Peculiarity  of  language — Ciiiides — Peak's 
Hole' — Description  of.  and  adventures  in  it — Humour  of  the 
guiJe — Owdin  ?.Iine — Miiiers — 'flieir  ciicerfuincr-s.  iiiirdsliips 
and  dangers — Speedwell  Mine — Subterraiu'Oiis  voyage — W'oi;- 
dci'ful  cavern — ^p.ar.Mine — Descent  iiito  it — Pvctnrn  to  Buxton 
— (ieological  remarks  on  tlie  Peak  of  Derljy^iiin — J".!il)ii;g  and 
no\viii!iM''!'!i — Coritrivancc  to  save  labuur — Sii!c;:jlai'  want  r)f 
curiosity. 

castli:to?>. 

The  usual  apj^roajh  to  C'astlcfon  i^  tr.roiic'h  a  narrow 
passage  b(t\veon  tiie  mountains,  cailc!' t'nc  </'//;;?r^i'.s  or  the 
windinrr  gate,  /vllljouoh  I  did  not  ciilcr  tlic  ^■alley  thioucli 
tliis  ueCilo,  I  visited  it  durino-  m\  stay  in  C'astleton.  When 
a  traveller  apjjroaches  the  valley  throuuh  the  Wixnf.tts, 
lie  iniGs  iiiiiiNclf.  the  moment  bei'ore  he  discovers  the  vil- 
liee.  winding  down  the  hills.  throu<2h  a  iiap,  where  rude 
and  broken  rocks  o\erh<uia;  the  road,  and  a  little  way 
anead.  sC'jm  to  cross  tiie  jiaih.  ami  bar  it  up  completely. 
\VhiIe  !)!■  is  cniir-.^ed  in  cor.ienspiatiiia-  a  scene  whore  every 
•hin^:  is  wild.  I'lide  and  A)rb;(l((inL:.  ami  ali'n-ds  no  plea- 
sure, oyx>.p\  ',\'om  till-  conti'mplation  ol'grar.deur,  all  ot'  a 
-.'idden.  tiie  v.Tiley  i)reak>  upon  his  \iew,  like  a  line  scene 
^it  ;iic  iisi;,o-  oi'  the  curtain.  Ii;  the  nearest  jiarl  of  the 
,ficT:::e.  (  rist'eton  a])pears  at  the  foot  of  a  meuntain,  which 
i,>  .•;!  ■  .1.  ;:  (Treat  mmibfr  that  stu'round  the  vaik}". 

r.'K   form  of  the  vidhy  is  that  of  an  obtuse  ellipse,  and 
'■■    •,'■•.;:!;(  tc;  ■>;  th''«'e  or   tour  mil»:s.      Some  of  the  nioim- 


KM.r  \M).  HniiAsn   wo   ^<>r\.\sn. 


..Ullv  .11  .'   !>.ll  nil.   I II  It    1 1  Ills  I   lit'  tl  If  111   lllf   \  111  1. 1  lit   til   tilr   Ml'V 

tiiji,  .upI  tillers  sliipi'  liDiii  tlifir  Miiimiits  iliiwii  tlifir  siilv^, 
ii.iii  ari'  i-oiitiiuifil  iicii.s--  tin'  \,illr\.  liiviitinu  it  inl'i  i''i'- 
I mj-  !.ir  In  lil<.  'riir  ;i|i(ir;ii:inrc  dl  tlir-r  I'liliis  is  the 
IlinsI   :  ;:iillintly   IliMIIti  fill .     |l|sl     wliilr   (he    stiT|  illi's^  nl     tin* 

ni" :i:;la..i  i N'rlinis  int. i  ,i  liijiifl  sl,,|ir.  iinnu'di.itrls  liclun"' 
ill'  ■.  !■  riniiiatf  in  tlu'  |il.ii:i.  In  tlinsf  |il,irrs  tin-  lii'Ms 
-I  'III  1-  u  rising;  up  to  iiii'i't  \  nil. 

I  ,  ■  ■  : 'liir_!  til"  i'i;;'_ -'\  I11--1:'  at  tlir  W  luiii  tl<,  ami  n 
I'-'s  <  t'li'i  ^miliar  ii[irniiijs.  du-  surian-  ni  I'ar  iii'iniilaiiis  i^ 
.liii:-!  ii  .'  Ir.iiii  I'H'ks.  ami  ii|iiall\  il.siitiil''  "I  ircs. — 
I  ii'  '••■•I.  .Ii,.,!  1,1  iihaiMi.iiiiv  III  u  111'!  I  1  am  ii' iv\'  sji-  .ikiiiL' , 
-.siliiali  ih'-  ii>'  ill  lliis  ihutli-i  11  [Mit  111'  I  )i  rliv -liif.  is 
•"  '!l"i!  t;a-  !'•   is  uf  I  >'  r!i\sliiir.       ||  i,    ;i  r.aiiMnai  iiiisiakc 

!i.  sii'l"'  '■  ile'l  liM  V  I  •  •■•in.  "11.  Iii'jli  III.  ■iiiitimi ,  111  111111/ 
ill!  -  ;  a   ilr.   in    \\  a  \    nl   I  lls;!i;i-liilll. 

ilaiiDiav  .il'Hij  till'  villi's,  ami  mi  .iin!  mar  tin'  tnjis  nl'ilir 

1:.         I  .  II-.  iv  a  lii'i  ji  1..S.,.'  \\nii  .1  iaiii|iail,  i\li  iaiiiij    si\- 

■  -:    it   is   s.ml    I'M  ii    III  ri.'ss  lUc  \alli  \.aml  it  may 

■■ir.i  il\    |i'  iai-l\  111.  '  -liii'j    "11    t'l  til'-  ra-tli    :    it   is  iiilrr- 

'  •!  \'\   rli  '-ai-  111  till-  iii.imiiam<.  ,imi  it-  mijiii  icmaiiis 

til  tills  iiai''  iha  1  rtaii:  :    in  all  jn  1  ilialiilil  \   it  was  a  luilitaiy 

\'.  1 1 1  k . 

\iai;ni  I  tiim  ■  wlm  n  sdikrs  mir  \i\\  a'.' ; '  'aliA'  111  this 
■  .■  ■  -'iiAi  \.  I-  In  ■  nnm'ii  i'  nl'  -ln'ji.  Imis,  ^  aini  Marlv 
'  I" !'■.  \\'.\i<  ii  ai'-  s.  ,.;i  '_ iM/iii'j  mi  til'  -  i|-  s  1 .1  till'  niiiim- 
!  Mil-.  1  Mil  win  ii  til-  \  ail  -M  sli'i|i  ill. it  ill'-  .illimals  srcm 
ratliri  i.i  a.lli.  ;.'  d,  li,.-  liill-  li\  iIh  :i  -nlr-,  liiaii  tn  li'- 
stamiiii;  "11  til'  ii  !■  .  t.  'I  In  s||i  i-|i  ,11, ■  tl..'  must  ,t'\\i  iiim'- 
"•is  ami  jii  r-i  \  1  1 1  in  ■.  in  -i  i/in  ■  mimii  !iii'-i-  -Ii  r|i  i|<  rlix  i 
Ii'  -.  a  ill  I  II  \\  1-  rmi"!!-.  t'l  iil'^i  i\i-  liMW.  Ill  Uli'  Imij  jil" 
-  "1  liiii".  lias  li  I'l  li\  1  •  ii-tan'  111'  i-lii;-'.  loriip  <i  a  -11.-- 


lis  A    JOrr.XAL    OF    TRW  ELS    IvN 

cession  ol  parallel  paths,  runuinir  lorind  the  hills  in  thk. 
manner  of  a  belt,  and  continued  at  tlio  distance  of  two  or 
three  feet,  quite  to  their  tops;  so  as,  on  the  whole,  to  form 
a  tolerably  regular  succession  of  steps.  The  same  thing 
had  been  effected  by  the  larger  cattle,  where  the  hills 
were  less  steej». 

Immediately  after  30U  have  discovered  llie  valley  when 
entering  it  by  the  W'innetts,  you  perceive  'Mcuii  Tor.  very 
near  on  the  1=  ft. 

This  a;opellntion  is  of  Sa.von  origin. 

This  mountain  has  a  singular  appearance.  It  is  sup- 
posed, that  at  some  period  ot' remote  antiquity,  it  divided, 
probably  ail  on  a  siuldeu,  with  a  lissure,  beginning  at  the 
■summit,  and  proceeding  to  the  bottom,  in  a  direction  near- 

IV  pc'i  iU'iidicular,  cind  iliut  thus,  th<-  froiU  of  tlic  iiiour.taia 
fell  liown  into  the  valley,  overwhehning  every  thing  !.h  low 
in  ils  ruins.  This  coiichision  is  I'ouaded  on  the  fact  iiiiil 
the  side  of  the  moinUain  next  to  the  valley  exhibits  a  per- 
peufjicular  section  of  bare  rock  and  earth,  exposing  all  the 
strata,  with  great  regularity,  and,  for  a  long  ^vay  below 
the  mountains,  its  ruins  are  to  be  seen  lying  in  va.st  hea])s. 
L'ndcr  these  ruins,  at  the  depth  of  three  hunth'ed  feet, 
trees,  in  a  j)erfe;-t  state  of  preservation,  have  been  duL'  nj> 
by  the  nnners  :  tliere  can  be  little  doubt  that  th(\\  were 
l)uried  at  the  time  when  the  side  of  tiie  mountain  fc'll.  And 
to  this  mom(Mit,  wiieiiever  severe  frosts,  heavy  rains  and 
violent  winds  occur,  the  moiiutain,  in  the  I'orcible  laii- 
truage  of  the  villagi^  miners,  shirt  n; :  and  new  (|nautities 
oi' d'-coinposed  I'ock  and  eaith  fall  i;;to  the  valley,  ilence 
its  very  e\pri'>.'«i\t>  appellation  o\'  //ic  Kliircrimr  luointtain. 

An  old  i!i;i;i,  beloii'jii!','  to  the  villai-e.  told  n:e  that  as  a 
■;.;irlvof  !■'  Mt'e;u"n  v.cr-,'  vi)iir::i;!<s.  cue  (lav.  on  :Maii'.  Tor. 


l.\i.I..\NL>.     IIi'l.I.AM)      WD     ^1  >■  :  I,  >.MI. 


J  iw 


lil<-   h.irr     uliicil    tlh\\M'l>'     pillMllll'.'.   iniii'_      .'lov.  h-   urL'rd 

l)\  u\r  iKi'j-.  IrajM  il  (liiuu  tilt'  lifinfiniuiiN  [nfcijiicf  :  the 
t'.  •_'>  \\  :■'.  {"•>  inuili  -!;ini  11' It  I.I  liill.iw .  .iiiti  .ill  w  en-  (ia^li- 
♦•lii'.  pi  ri  ..  ••  I  h.i'i  ;i  jMir  III  l:1i'V(>."'  said  tli''  old 
iiia.ii  ••  iiiaiii'  ii!  ill'-  ^kia  "I  tlial  liaic"  Tin.  iciji  ..i'  Nlaiu 
Tnr  i-  '--"III  il  I' I  lir  iliiitcfii  liaiiiin  il  Icrt  ali^iMi  tiic  lr\ii 
u!  !!,■   \,.Ilry. 

i  ill'  I'liar  iiiDMiUaiu^  a^  Wi'.l  a>  Mam  Tur  ai  '  kim'A;: 
'■i\    ]',a  ;'  ■!  !  II    !;:i:;;r-. 

I  ;:'■  I'M.  la. '11  uli'ia;  1  lia\r  ni^!   im  lUn'ia'il.  hail  nil"  pf- 

■  \:\\  <■]  '■\pr''--i"!i  w  liirli  I  in  a  I'.  I  l'r>''|ii'  iii!\   :n  (  a^tli  - 

l'!-t'  ad  "I    '<a\inu  I"i''l    -~iiiii   an  kIiC  'i/i-!t<  Uil<    la  !'!. 

.'.  1  •;!  ,  -a\  I'll  siaii  an  niir  /;/  /  ,/r'v  ihis  I'l'M.  This  i- 
■■;!'■  ia-tai:rc  aiai'ii'j  \.i\  iiiai;".  p' raliiiiii---  <i|'  laii'ju:!  J'' 
,\  111'  a  !  i.!)N''i  \  I '1  aaaiM'.'  lia-  p^a-  :.i!r\  nl'  I ).  I 'a\  ^liii  r.  1 
Iiad    Ii'ju  .".  rr  ii'i    -'a'i'ii:^  ';:;'!ir':i'\    la    aii' ii'.'^Iaiiii:ii  ;  tlaiii. 


,1   111'  \ 


ii    la  ;    \'i' 


<  ;-'a''>l  1-  .;■.  aaaai-l'-'J  ''!'  \llla_r.  |,i't  lln'  :;i-i'ai 
a!a'>i  1  "I  Mran  r;-  \^l,.l  '-.ja -laa; ';.  M  -"Tl  t"  i:.  ;'n  rarinl 
!i\  tl:.-  1  ■ir!"-;r!'->  u!  ila-  I'l  a'-.,  r  ;  ;.!■  it  :.>  Miaimaiii  a  \<TV 
'iMiil  iiiii.  l.iii'U  11  i)\  til''  iiaai'-  "!  ill''  ( ''i.-'^'-l:iii.  \l  ;hN 
i;  '1,-.  I  "'a'aia'd  •■\--v\  \<  ii  r  .'aaa  a;' .  v.  ad'  ii''!  la  !''-v^arv  i>\ 
a  li  ;i'  "!  iwi  !\''  111'''  ;;(>in  iai'.t"a.  aii'l  ,ilt  i'  liiaia  la  pu- 
pa r.     i  I>   M!r\  1  \    1 1;       \'.Ml!i;'  I'-.  <.;    ;lir    N  a!li'\  . 

1:  l<  111 -I  lln'  li  -pps  ',  all'  \  111  \  !)\  --iiiia.  w  la  I ''  a.  _'■  liaa.S 
-  '  '  . .  >  1"  ,id  1  11'  >:i  .aia;  ai-  tl'  j.i  i.  !  \  .  a  i  i  !  I"  i'  la  w  lli<'  al- 
■ .  .'  ii  .!•-  I'!  I'-p'  lai:  pi'  a^all  -  ;  l-ai  •'."■  r..a;i-i  1.  \<-  i--, 
'a::'  -'a  d.l  lu.'-I  'idiaaa-'-  l!  n'  li- -i  i"!  ^  "t  I'l  i  dii  la!  ri\ria-, 
a'l'l  Ml  1.1  id',  till-  w  "a.  !'  I  -  w  li'iii  a '  ;  ''aid  amid-;  il>"  n  ,i  I.  - 
'.la':  I"    mc'--~  iia   ^'i''"'  • 


120  A  JOURNAL  OP  TRAVELS  IN' 

There  are  guides  who  make  it  their  business  to  conduct 
strauiiers  into  these  scenes  :  and  there  is  a  distinct  guide 
for  each  curiosity. 

THE  PEAK  S  HOLE. 

Having  procured  the  jiro[)er  guide,  I  went  first  to  see 

the  famous  Peak's  liole.  As  we  approach.ed  this  wonder- 
ful cavc'ii;  we  crossed  a  bridge  over  a  rivulet,  which  is- 
sues u'';!!!  ilio  luoutl!  of  the  cave  ;,  this  mouth  is  at  the  hot- 
tQiii  of  a  pD  jicndiculei.-  rock,  that  Ibrms  part  of  the  front 
of  iiie  nioj'utaiii.  The  foriu  of  ihis  |>art  of  the  mountain 
is  like  ti'.at  oi  a  bo'ikset  on  end.  and  half  opened,  the  brick 
Oi'ilie  b:_>ok  being  iVo'u  the  ob-ervcr.  Near  the  angle  is 
liH' n;out'ii  oftlie  ^a^en•.  .\s  we  proceeded  into  the  fis- 
s;;!.:,  i  loiiivod  np  these  rorky  walls,  and  saw  the  old  castle 
at  a  ■-■i'ld}'  height,  ap.parenllv  threatening  to  i'ail.  The 
f^nide  |:)oiiited  out  seveial  veins  of  lead.  The  entrance 
ii;i<j  the  cavern  jjas^-es  close  uiuler  the  rin'ht  side;  of  the  two 
|;rec![)ices,  whicli  ine(  ting  at  an  acute  angle,  form  the  iis- 
sure  in  tl'o  n^.ountain.  fir!j)ressions  of  sul)liin!ty  are  ])ro- 
duc(  d  by  lookUiH'  iip  this  pi'e;'ij)ic(-  of  two  huuih-cd  and  fif- 
t\  feet,  perpeiidiculai  height,  and  a  kind  of  hori'or  is  ad- 
ded to  tlic  place  in'  lannerous  jaf'kdaws,  which  ijuild  llnnr 
nests  in  the  cievices,  and  I'ual  iti  tliev--  inaecessilile  cliffs  a 
secure  rets-ejit;  they  were  contiiiii'dly  ilyinir,  in  a  black 
cloud,  around  (Ik-  rocks,  and  disturbiiijr  the  air  with  tlieir 
croaking.  These  rocks  are  lime  stone,  fdled  uii!i  niarine 
exnvia'.  We  now  <'ntered  iJie  ca\ern.  It  opens  with  a 
grand  arcli.  almost  mathematically  regulnr,  but  ilu;  a!)ut- 
jiienl  on  the  left  h  considei'ably  lower  than  that  on  llie 
}\ji\i\.  ']  his  ai-ch  is  one  hiaidred  and  twentv  I'eet  wide;, 
and  seve;it\-  leei  i:ii,d),  reckoning  froni  thele\e!  o.r  the  ^iji;!. 


1    ^>.l    'vNtl.    Ilul  I. 


; )  -  <  u  !  1 .  V  Nj  > 


I  ;  I 


i,)i-n;  mi  I'ln    ]•  !i.       I    iiilii   liii-   iii.il: n. I n'l  '.il    |mii  l.i  ".   \\f  {  :.- 

ttlr.l  liir  I'll-l  CIV  I'l  n.  \Utiill  i^  (■111'  llUIi.il.'.l  ;ill<i  il'_lll> 
I. 'It    Im'.p/,   ihr    ,tlill    I'.lllill-     .i    lilllc    Itiu:i|il>    \\'.r    Klllilrl    (11.1. 

I  \\  •>  ^:ir|ii  1^1  t!  t"  liii'l  i!:i-  (MM  1 11  i'ili,iliiu  il.  \  ii:;!iilicr 
III  jiiiMi    \\ miii'ii  aihl  rlii!ili(  .i  c.mtn   u'I  h-  rr   ;i  iii.iiiiil  h  tiii'i' 

i'M  ,.1(1  ,1111 1  I\\  i.lli'.  .II1<1  >'iMir  (il  ill'  lil  lu  f  lirrc  |  n  111  i  ii'  Ml - 
1\  ill  s;ii,ill  huts,  sill  IliT-'il  ll\  llir  i  I II  |  ii 'lli  1 1 1 1 '^  iinniiitim 
I  l:i\  'iir_r  ,11 1  l\i'ii  .11  ill!'  nil  I  nl'  ilii-  U\^\  ciimiii.  I  liM.knl  i);icl, 
ullli  lirliirj-.  lit  ;iu '•  :i!iil  ->  ili  miiii  \  ,  iml  mi,iii\i'ii  v. 'lit 
sniiiftiiii'//  \ii'\  iiiurli  lii^t'  i'ri':,i'.  1  ills  ,',i\i  111  i,  un|'\  ;i 
r.Mitiii;iiitio!i  Ml  till    jn  ,u  ;iii  li    il  iln    i  11:1.1  tc.  I.iiiii;-'   ,,s  i; 

MTi'ili  s  iVnill  lilt'  li_'il.  I'l'  W  !l''r!i  I  ll'M'  i  -  ll.iw  i'\r|-.  1  ||.  i:  jli 
It)  I'll.lli'i'  mil'  io  SI-'  liic  ul,.;.'  I'l  il.  ;i.,.i  I.I  IM  ski'  ilil.i  ir- 
.ili/.i'  III  'i   a  sr.i '  iiiLiiii  is  ii\i  r  i;:-   l;r  i.'.        I  h;-  ;ii.  ii.'il  liu:'.. 

!i.  ill:    Ml      !;:i|i'  s;.,i   ,'.   ,i!iM;Pi   i^    ■'   :l!l    C   :!r:i!  i' n,  -  1  m;:.  1  r!  imiis. 

aii'l  ,1  n  i;i.ii  l.:iMi'  Mill'  \v,,s  j'./:'  i  i.u'.  w  iii.j.  ii  iin  i> 
Imiii:  .  ,111.1  llr  I,.  I  :iii.  I'  Ml  \\  .  '1  It  lil  I  .111.  is  ;:'M';i  |  ',.■  1  o.'l.  is 
r.ili'    1   till'   /'■'  ,''  .'/  "/"  /.'./     -.'/. 

'I'l.     I'l     i  Ml     I;.,     r  iM  :  ;i    .«  s  ,   ;.,   .    ..    ,  ,  ,:.i.  ,,,  '      .   111   ll~   lii- 
.   :ii  il    ;I  Ills   1)1  I  n   1  ti;i,;  '1  hlx    i  !,.-r  i   '   ;i.  l-\    an  ,11- 


w  In  11'  I  111  |i'  IS    .1  .  ill,  1  .  11,    \.  ii'i  11  llii-  'j!i;(ii'  ii; 


;  111'  InI'V  .  I  iir  \'.  .1  ii  a  .1.1  I  Im,  ir  ;ii'i'  11.;.  |.  il  i  in  I  \i'!ii:ii'  ii.i- 
:ii  :'aii  'Il  \i-i;  Ms.  ;ii|ii  I,]  vri  iir,'  1  .  il,.'  •  'ii,!.  iin  i'\i'!iisi\  ,-■ 
1  'I  l\  .'.  _•'  Mi  I'M  II  li  i.'l  ;  ,•  ■    ,1  |M,,  ,..'  ^  ; '  !i  M'l';  h   i  ill  ■   I  m.mt. 

M  >   '^  'lil!.'  i',.a',   ;   "  .',   -■  M'l  ,i|  !'     ':!,'  i   r  In,;!'  s   in   h,  ,  hai'iis. 

.,1    ,1    iJ.IV  I-    :','      .      ,".  Ill'    illi'll    .'iscIm-,      :    liir    I'litlaMi'    I.!'  his 

;   .,'1  il  il   MMiMliiiMii  :     lail     '.',  li  11    ,i!l     I  !  .■:      ••  I   :::  ''•  i;mi!s     i.-r,,,] 

i     :  .'  'ill  '"    si|]i;,,,~     I   I,.    ,  'I    I,  ;    lil. 
>  M  I  ' '  1    I . '  ■ . : :    ;  s ,    ! ;   '    ,  ;        .    1      i    .■':   i  !•''•..    ■ 


122 


A    JOt  i!\AL    or     CUAVKLS    I\ 


After  entering  the  door,  tlie  jiassaire  became  nnrruw 
und  low,  and  we  prooerdcd,  stoopiuir,  till  we  arrived  in  a 
place  calletl  tlie  Bcil  J/oitfir,  (Vom  sumc  resemhiance  be- 
tween its  form  and  that  of  a  bill. 

Beyond  tlii.s,  the  cavern  became  aaain  low  and  narrow, 
{ill  it  was  almost  cIos(fd,  k;u\  ing'  only  a  small  orifice  of 
uboiit  tbroe  f^ct  diameter.  Here  the  rivulet,  whicli  we  had 
fuUovved  up  from  the  mouth  of  the  cave,  spread  into  a  lit- 
tle lake,  occupying  the  whole  of  the  bottom  of  tlie  cavern. 
r>ut  we  were  not  stop[K'd  ;  there  was  a  ferry  boat  all  ready. 
The  bottom  of  it  v,a>  spread  with  clean  straw,  and  by  the 
directi  in  oi'  my  r^u'ulo  1  i;ot  into  it,  and  lay  down  Hat  on  my 
ba.ck.  Mv  (jniut;  stepped  into  the  water  up  to  his  knees, 
and  ])us1ied  the  boat  before  him  tln-ough  the  narrow  aper- 
ture, v.iiich  was  merely  liiHi  enough  to  permit  the  boat  to 
pass,  and  the  guide  to  crawl  after  if.  It  would  be  im])os- 
-,iule  for  oui;  to  pass  if  sittii^i;' up  in  the  boat.  It  required 
no  vciy  viviil  imaginacion,  nor  much  familiaritv  with  clas- 
-ical  literature,  to  find  in  this  adventure  tli(>  Charon,  Sti/.r. 
.md  Aceriiiis  ol' poetical  fable. 

\\<i  had  now  au'ived  in  a  new  cavern,  mncli  larger  and 
mm'C  majc^stie  than  any  whicli  we  had  yet  seen.  A  Hood 
ofiicht  v»as  iV'ces.-ary  to  reiid(>r  it  all  visible,  for  it  was 
one  lumdi(;ii  a'a<i  twemy  fc'ct  liiiih.  two  hundred  broad,  and 
i\\o  handreii  and  fifly  feel  l'..i;<i.  Its  \va!ls  wei'e  lime  stone, 
idled,  as  b'.'fere  willi  :-lii'lls.  ('ros^ina'  the  rivnh^t  on  step- 
p'.ig  '  {ones,  v.e  i;ext  t'ound  ourselves  in  a  smaller  cavern. 
\'.  liicli.  on  accouui  (ii  the  coustae.t  exudation  of  water  fr(_ini 
;'i''  rii.'U  is  calf'd  i-":^'(r  lidi/r.-i  House. 

\  l,u'"e  cax-ern,  called  (he  fV/r/.'/re/.  came  next.  Its  ajj- 
pe.ii'ance  was  i)r()uen  and  rud(>.  ajid  the  lights  discfnered 
■  .Ml;  'Ma!  ictile:;.      When  the  'jiiide  has  notic*.-  tlrj.t  a  part.^ 


t  \    !.  \M>.  i-'  '11   \\n    •  \ 


«  I  .  1 : 1 1 . ! ' .'  ( '  I  \  : '  ■  w  It-  I  ■ : ;  \ '  1  " ,  1 1 "  '  ;  1  -  ■  -  ■  t  ; , ,  >  c  ■  m  ;  , . .  .  •  i  ;  - 
'  "11  1. 1  111-  ji',,i\ '  I  n'i'  ill  [[•'  (  ".  !■  -,1.  '.>,!:',;(  !,  [Mill;;  .•.  -,.1- 
.1  II  \    ^ir.lDU'T.  il^iii   I'-i'l  l!"     ■  'A  Ml  ~N.!'  '.       \\  'ii  ;i 

'in  p  irl\  :ui  i\  !■  in  \r..-  r  i .  ■  ;•  .  '  .'■  ^  ;ii  i-.  ,.'I  <'!i  .i  -^  ,;,.',  p . 
!^!i  •iiin'ii  1 1  aiiil  ciMih  iMii'ii  I '.  :,'  !i'-n  .:i  j  li  i"'i  i!:i'  I'm.  i|  . .; 
;!ii-  ■'I'lit  !i  \  iiMii^i'Ku  w  lii'-'i.  ,1  i:i.i;i!iii(  ]■■■'.•:■■,  w  .1.^  .  ;i  . 
'^  III II liii  _' 'it,  ,111'!  •-,\i  :i'  '-  ;  II-  ;  I  n!.~.  m  ;i>l,mt,ii;i  ••' 
ii^li^I  n!  Imui m  \.>)ri  ^.  liiul'ijilii  ■!  .■\  .1  li|ii'ivti|tl  'tIi..!-. 
W  ill  If  (In  A   :iii-.  ill   \  ;iiii.  liKi.'-.  iiij  1,11   lilt    ciii','-  ol  !!iis  s,  ,-iu- 

.'] :  I  .nil  iiiMii-'i'.  ,1  M  !/••  <il  1 1  jilt  :i ,  'III  i!ii  I '  I  ■;'  III'  till    <■  w  - 

■  ■ni  li.-i'  \  ■  I  >  ,1  ;:ii:n'  II  i"  "I  li_':ii  <  >  m  \s  ii.ii  .  ••"]  _,\)':  ;ii!,i 
liiMI  III'/  t  il  ri;t  ■.  ,11  l!ii-il  iili  ,1-.  1  ;i,  1^1'  v,  in  i  ;i;  !■  i,,  'I  n;  ill, 
-t  i-;i  I.  .Ill    .iliin'-t   jnT-',:  •!•■  i   '_ii.it    l!n'\    .ii'''  ill     .ill  •  ;'i-'n'.'- 

•  '!   r,t\r.    \'.i.i  !•■   till'    ^11  ii>-~   I,;    liilii  111!  c-   ;iiiii    I.i!i:i'    |];i\i'   p  ,   i 

•  v-l'  111  !•.  I  ill'  ■ '"  lii^,'  III  \  ,iiii^!n'~,  In  i\\  I  \  I  i ,  v\  In  I!  tii'  \ 
,(!  I   m;,  1]  iiH'l.  ti'  i!  ,1   li'iMi'.i  r  I'!    I II  ••;,!•■    ii  ,1111  ;I,.'   \  ill  '■  ". 

.  !i  •>.  '■  _',iin-  ii|i  .1  "III  it  |i  iNv;i..,-  1,1  ilir 
:  i.i.i  ,i;  I  ill-  (  ;i,i:ii-.  I.  \«.  ii!i  c  nn  r  li.-i !  li'jlil-.  w  iiicii,  .it  tin 
I  .  ini  it'-i  1  iiiiMii'  I.I .  III'".    -■;  i  ii  ii!  •.    I  •!  I II  lui'"'. 

W  I'  ti.ai  In  '1  I'll  I"  .1  !:--|':i'  i:i  ti:-  v  h  1%.  r.iin  il  ti'r  /,',  ,-- 
//'.-  '  '  A' 'r.  ;iin!.  ;::;i-r  i  n  -i  i-ii,i;m_'  "r.iii'r'Iiv  i.in-  iimnii<-,i 
.n.'l  ;i:i\  1,  I  f.  \\i-  r.iiin-  'm  t'p-  /'■n'l  n-'iu  h  ■•i:<  .  I  in-  In. 'I 
ini\'.  ,1-^111111,1  '-ii,ili-r  |i_i|'.ri]I\  :  tlinr  [.;i'-;il|»l  .iiiI:'-' 
\\  I  I  •-  .11  \  .I'W  .  ;i  ii. ' 
III     Inn    '.f     /.;■". 

\  r  \  s  \  ,11  ii  ,11-  I II  i'  ,1  III  in  ,-j  h'  ami  I  n  i  .i  ,l  i  :  t  .n  l  i\  ii.'i  I  ;ii  i- 
]M  ■'!•  ,i  iii-i  111  l'\  I:  .Ml- 1 1,1  II  'iI.  ,iinl  il>  !■  I  \\  .i>  u  iiil.-  u  itii 
I  -I'l    II  'I  I  I-    -ii  i;  .  It. Hi    ill     I-;.  iW  II  .111!    I  ,ii,i,.  'i  .j     !■■,    (!n     u   I- 

!■   I. 

\i   i'  .     ''  w  •    II   II  i  •    i  tin-  i-inl  ■•:  liii-  iiLiii,!  -uliK  ri,i"i-.iii 
v.'ilni'l   :      !-   \\'i.ili-    !■  p    Ml   i-   I". I     tliii"-'i;,i    luii     Iniinliiii 

ri-!  !,;■  \   !■  '  '.  i>i   111  .11 1\  li   ';  .,  iiii'i  . 


!.  !ii  \-.ini  l!  i-v,'.  a  r,!\.  m  |,L.-  a  In  !!.  caii- 
.  '■/.        I'l  11,  I  I  1  llinj.     w  I-    Ii  1  i;n  i     tin'     i-.i\  i  in 


;  .M  A   JOURNAL    OF   T/lA\Ej.S    IS 

3Iy  guide  assured  me  that  he  had  put  pieces  of  bark  iniu 
u  particular  water  four  miles  from  this  place,  and  had 
found  them  afterwards  Hoatiug  down  this  rivulet,  whence  he 
••oncluded  that  there  was  a  subterranean  connection.  He 
was  very  intelligent,  extremely  attentive  to  my  safety,  and 
odthough  an  unlettered  man,  had  no  small  share  of  humour, 
lie  entertained  nie  with  an  account  of  distinguished  per- 
s()n.>  who  had  visited  the  cavern  in  his  time,  among  whom 
lie  named  iJr.  Solander,  Sir  Joseph  Banks,  and  the  Prince 
of  Wales. 

1  inqifn-ed  wl'.ether  ladies  ever  visited  the  cave?  He 
rojilif  (.1.  ••'  O  ves  !  two  ladies  to  one  gentleman  !"' 

■•  Vh,  how  is  tliat  ? — Have  the  ladies  more  curiosity,  or 
more  courage  tlian  the  gentlemen?"  ''I  don't  know; 
f/iC  ladies  have  a  deal  of  ciriosify  /" 

I  then  asked  him  whether  he  was  afraid  the  French 
would  come?  He  answered,  ^'-  No  ;  but  1  wish  I  had  Bo- 
naparte in  ni\"  power." 

'•  Wliat  would  you  do  with  liim  ?"  '•  I  would  chain  him 
at  the  en(i  of  my  cavern,  and  keep  him  for  a  sight ;  1 
>.hou!(i  then  have  visitors  enough." 

Vv"e  novi'  re!rar( ;!  our  st(>ps.  I  was  again  laid  in  the  lit- 
tle boat,  ar.d  f(,i'ii<Ml  througli  the  narrow  ])assage  : — we 
travelled  back  as  fast  as  we  could  with  safety,  and  with 
caiuUes  burnt  down  to  our  fni'^ers.  a<rain  reached  the  wood- 
en door,  and  opeiiiny  it.  I  beheld  the  light,  with  a  lilfle  se- 
<-r(f>f>if,  which.  Iiad  I  l.een  ([uestioned,  I  might  have  been 
too  Hout-iie;!rteil  to  acknowh'due. 

^^  o  retained  to  the  \il!age  :  and,  iiaving  j)rocured  an- 
other'j,uid<'.  I  v.entjn  a  hi  a\ y  rain,  nearly  a  mile  on  foot, 
to  see  the  most  iMK'ieut  and  [)roductive  lead  mine  in  (.ireat 
Britain, 


h.M.l    \M).  IH^I.I.  \M)    \M»    -1  .1  n    \M> 


1  ill:  '  >\\  \>i\  MiM' 


I,)  w  iiirii  1  .illn.li-.  i^  !>>  li-  \ .  1  In  ii.i\  !■  ht'i'ii  w  r  ii'''iil  '.\\  ll:r 
ItMiiiaiis  ainl  >,i\)i;-.  1 1  - '-a  t  \  <r  ini  >  iiia\  Ij'.  tii>'  iini- 
lll■Ml^  lll,l^^  wl  rii!t!)i-li.  ciili'cti  •!  ii'Mi  il^  iih  i'' ii.  li.  111.  ;;- 
-ir  ili>  liial  ii  li  :-  ill  .  11  uiirki'-i  Inr  a  m  r_\  |.  ui.'  pi  :  in.!.  Ii 
i^  Mtuali  li  Ilia:  liic  li.nt  I'l    ^lain  '1  m  . 

'liii-  l'ir>l  liiiiu  lliit  alJiart.  .1  iii\  lil'iiticni  mi  lailia  ii' _■ 
l',  P  Mii,,il  iiii(-  ar^  :  l.i^i  I  ill-  Hi  i  ill'.  \^  as  ihi  1).  alii'.'  .■!  l!,.  ■  ■!  -■. 
'rili«  1-  (I.  I  |.irai'"i  !.v  \v  .HiHII  :  lii.  v  In  .  a!s  It  III  [...Ti  V  \4  iiii 
a  iviii'l  .'I  111  i!l.  ;  :  il  i>  lli'i;  -i.i.  ^i.  w  i-in  .i.  an  i  ^i  ill  a\.a\ 
l.i  111'  -IIP  III  li. 

\\\  jupI:  r.  HI  .a.li  .1  II  If  ii.I' .  i;i>  //•-,■/./-/■';.',  .  w  ii.i  .■  I  la,' 
■  Ml  a  iii;iii-r"-  iln--.  Il  rii;i-.iNti  .i  i.|  an  nil  r  \\ -ija  .li:  [.  ■. 
1. 1  111  I  I  ■  111  -.  r. I  II  -I-  ,iipi  .iiM\  :  a  w  iiMli,  n  -iiii,  I  i  i.  -,(  i  ai 
llii' -aaa-  rill!, liin  ai.  .iinl  all  ('1,1  lial.  u  i'.Ii  }'';>■  liii:a  a',!i-iii 
.■:;.  I'M  I  |ii  I'll  I.'  Ill  li'iir  iiaii'  -.  aii'l  tli.it  lii:  aa  '  1  in  i.  a.  1. 

W  .til  a  '.I'lii.  li  laiii'iii-  -tn.-ix  mill  .i  ja.i'r  i.|  c'ai, .  1  u.-w 
!..!!. 'W  .  .i  iii\   _a.  II-    lal.i    I  iir-i- i!,M  l\.  iLiiiiji   .lai    ->.iiii;\    la;- 

'.'il.|l>.  1  |i'    I-   II  11"   'I     a     I;.'!,;.'.!    ('.lipii.'    ill    |;i>    ii      ;;    I.     ill.l     f.V  'I 

liP  'l"i'    \S  rV>-  Ml-|'.   i:   Il  .i    I  I  I  .ai    ill-    lie.  i\. 

I  III'  laiia  .'j.'  II-  ;..'.'.  t!i'-  -;  I  ■  .■;  lii.'  iii..''i;i,  ■;'.  l..-".\.  •  a 
t 'A  .  I  w  liis  ..:  aiiii'  -t.  111!'  ;  li;  ■  riii.iai.ri'  i-  a!  '  ..■  i  i\ . .  a  ; 
vS  .  a  .  ll.i  ll\  1  !•  .  ■  !ii_il.  (  >I  iMUi-i'  \|.  I-  w  .  !:I  .  . 
..a:  u  nil  \r]  \  ',\[\]i-  r.  i.'iM  i..  -j.  .i-.'  ..a  .  i;ii.  r  -;  .  .  1,;  -i,, , 
1,1  a.i.  !'  w  '  |i;  .'.a  .  ;.  i  iiir.  ai.ii  a  p  i--a  _i-  ,vi '.s ..  \  -  iiai  i .  .u  , 
a,.'  \  a;  .  ii.  in  li.a  a.llli  a.,  a.i  iai  '  I.,  tia  in.  a  :iii  it'  I'lf 
V  •  'a.  la  ■!.  -/'  lit  \v  a-  ■_  i  ".a  i:.  n,.'  li.c  ii.  r"  ii  .•!  i;,f 
11  .--  •  _  '■.  Ill:  1  '.  '  I A  \\  II'  1 1  .!•  .  h.  w  ':'•■  I  a  a.,  ami  ^^  af.'i ,  \\  ,  - 
1'  ,,'11  I.  :  -  'i.i.  wli.J  II,"  1'  [irai  la  .liil'  .  ;.,  li..aiii-  .iial 
■  aa'i'  v.     ■\  iai  ii      m.  a:  '  .     i.^  >\\  ■■:■:.     _  ■  a-  •   ili  v  .i 


126  A  JOLRXAL  OP  TRAVELS  IN 

\Vc  wpiit  Ibivvurd,  stooj^iiig-; — sometimes  nhnnst  oree|t- 
i»g,  and  often  throiidi  passni^es  so  narrow,  tliat  il  was  ne- 
cessary to.'O  side\va\s. 

<,)ver  our  lunids  was  a  flourinu'  of  boards  laid  on  wooden 
rafters,  to  support  tlu-  loose  earth  and  stones  :  from  this 
rot)f  the  water  was  every  where  dropping  and  trickling 
dowi!  the  walls,  so  that  we  were  kept  constantly  w  et. 

Our  j^ath  frequently  led  us  over  pits  sunk  forty  or  fifty 
feet,  like  wells,  down  to  another  oaljery,  similar  to  that  in 
which  we  now  were.  Through  this  lower  gallery  the  wa- 
ter of  the  mine  runs  oft'.  Some  care  was  of  course  neces- 
sary, in  passing  by  these  siiafts,  lest  we  should  step  into 
liii'in  :  but  they  aie  generally  in  some  measure  covered 
with  loards.  In  tliis  manner  we  travelled  on  half  a  mile 
into  the  bowels  of  a  mountain. 

W  ;i(u  we  !iad  reached  the  end  of  our  journey,  we  as- 
lendcd  into  a  great  cavern,  which  they  had  excavated  to 
TJie  distance  oJ"  forty  fe(M  above  our  heads.  The  ascent 
was  by  means  of  ti.>i!)ers  fixed  in  the  crevices  of  the  rock, 
[ike  the  rounds  ol'a  ladder.  Here  1  took  hold  of  the  ])ick 
;i\<'  an(M)roke  oifsome  of  the  lead  ore  to  bring  away  as 
specimens. 

VV(,'  returnetl  a  part  of  the'  way,  and  then  took  an  excur- 
>iun  into  another  vein  which  diverged  from  the  principal 
Mue  at  an  acute  an<jl('  :  this  vein  has  been  explored  for  a 
mile,  but  we  contcU^'d  ourselves  witli  going  only  half  this 
disiaure. 

[n  cur  progress  through  the  mine  T  had  tin?  satisfaction 
of  seeiiiLr,  in  their  native  situations,  the  most  important 
ores  of  h  ad  ;  tiie  beautiful  crysfalizations  of  tluor  spar, 
.Old  '  alcart'>)i;>^  spar;    the  sulphat  of  l)arytes,    native  cop- 

,..'r;.s,  aiid  ''\i''',\s'.vo   strata  of  liuKJStone.   llUed  with  the 


mu-'  riiiimi--  jsi'tnlactuMi-;.  I  !;i"  ^''rii''  \^;l^  to  n,o  i\- 
!.•  Ill'  I  .  nil'  ri-!iip_  ;iiiil  iii«triicti\i  .  aii'i  Iw^  Immi  <  jm-n'-'I 
iMii.'iK'  ■i\\a\  ill  ill''  iniih'.  'I  1,^'  !<[■''  i^  iMa\<  si-'l  t.i  li  ,\ 
lijiM  !i'.  iiiiaii>  n!  xiii.ill  \\  ;i  j_  .  if,-.  1  iir  nal  aif  i  >i  ili.'  siii;- 
,•'1'  a  ai'ci>-at  ii\  [nai  lnii-  n  tii<'  im:|i1"\  iiiriil  dans  iImih  -- 
III-  aiiiiaai.  ari.i  \\i''  iiaai;^  tin  ltl"i  •■  art  in  lluii  -.li  a. :  ; 
ill'  \  ai^  K;.  i,.li\  li,',' 11. •--'■. 1  1.)  i!ii  u  .iLij.MN.  u  iiii  ((.':!. II -. 
aai  liar. v.  ;,ii.l  tinK  tia\<'l  lia<-k  aaii  l.auar.i  ilii'i.i!_ii 
l!..  -r  lii-iaal  n  _'i'ai-.  'I  lir\  all'  I'M;-.  .1  t,.  _ii  at  It  a-!  iia'; 
.1  n;  ii'  w  a'a  r\  i  a  a  Ina.i.  aihi  .I'l  lin'  ^^  i  \  tliin!'  'li  narlviii~s, 
ami  \  r;  \  (.!(•  11  llirii  l.iaii  i>  iiMihiaj  I  a  it  i  til)!i:-n.  lof  ii  is  iii- 
ii'^ln  a-  lii!''  liiai  tlii-  Ik-  rn!iMaiitl\  : .  1 1 u>\  i 'i i .  m1  lin  u  i -i •  ( 1  n ■ 
iallri_\  wi.aM  !)•■  -.1  ulisini.  ii',|,  ihat  no  wmk  laniKl  In' 
<!  "i'-.  ^  it  l!a\  ilMlalU  -jii  I'll  tlh-ii  wh'ilr  li\fs  luir.  aii'l 
•1  a  \  ii  \  I  ar.  I  i!il  I  1,1  -  la  1/!'  n.  ^I\  'jiii  Ji'  li  !•  1  limi 
t  \Mi'l\ -li\  !■  \.-.!i>  la  lia'  1IIMI1-.  aiiii  Lis  lallr  i  au'l  'ji'iii'l- 
'  ^':,a    1;  i  i  i.in-!ina  li  all  t!a  ii    ila\s  in  llii'  v.ina-  |jla'i'. 

\\  I     !;■  ■\\    1 1  ;  a  la  li  1. 1   111-    liL  III,  :ii  iii_iii„'    vv  illi  a-    -|  iiri- 

i;-    Ol      till'    i!::m    1,    lit     |il,,    h,l    liiia^      .';       till'       nilU'    .       \\  i  H 1 '  i  I       I 

,.     al    s'laa    lii'iiii'    i:a\    in    ^1,.  w    \.>a.        i  in'    h  ii.'i^    <<{ 

II  t.'aiTs    at'-    1.1  ■    .lil    an  r.ai..ii\.       >iaai  laia  >    tin-  ii"a 

:  -  ia,  aiii'i  li.i'  map  is  aI'i-  iini  iri  i  in  in    iiii  a  iiia^^  nl  vti  aa'S 

,,.1  i    rarili  ;     -'  laii  iaiii  ■-  a    --aiii  !■  ii    la  h  ^i  ni    \\  ati  r    lirnw  lis 

ill.  in.    ;iaa    .!    I'liai   tiaa>    llii\   ai<'  iji  ^l  1 1 '\  i  (1    li\    ;ia    L'.in 

A'!. a'   li|..   ,-    wiili  whirli    tl'iA    na-l    ;ia'    r.uax^.      'i  Iiom' 

1  ■•  ■  a:  r.ui  I  ~  .('  .■  iii'I    I:  i  ija.  ai.  ai'.l    \  i-;  1  ia-v    lia\  •     i  ii    ha  ji- 

[•1  aa  ■!  I"  !'■-   <  >\\  liia  ,.:iai-. 

la.  I'.it  I'  |iiii  ..1  ihi-  ii.'i.'lai  nii>  .1  (  a-iliaai  ar- 
..I  ,;•  I.-.  1  ii'  a  I  '  II  I.;  na  M-iM.s  ,1-  ui'i  ii.ia_'ia!'!''  a-,  tlia' 
I'i  I'ai  llai'i  1.1  '.i-'.^.  !.'!  .liha.iljil  la.t  iiiaiii-  ir  r.  .  iil.i  r\  i.\ 
lia-  1  iai')iiil -a  Ml  ni  !  iw  .a  lii.'  ml!  i<  iicr  dl  ii'li/aai.  it  !>•  - 
<  I'a;-'-    ■•■!>.   ,'    'ai''  I    la    ii'.-i-  --it  ■,  .  anil   '.  aa>    !a.  n.  v. .  .a--  ■ 


l2s  a  journal  of  travels  in 

and  cliildi-eiij  from  generation  to  generation,  are  all,  in 
one  way  and  another,  employed  about  the  mines. 

Having  thrown  off  my  miner's  dress,  I  went  with  an- 
other gnide  to  see 

THE  SrEEUWELL  OR  NAVIGATION'  MINE. 

This  mine  proved  to  be  a  very  different  thing  from  lliat 
which  I  had  just  left,  and  1  found  no  difiiculty  in  wearing 
my  usual  dress. 

We  entered  a  wooden  door,  placed  in  the  side  of  a  hill, 
and  descended  one  hmidred  and  six  stone  steps,  laid  like 
those  of  a  set  of  cellar  stairs,  The  passage  was  regularly 
arched,  with  brick,  and  was  in  all  respects  convenient. 

Having  reached  the  bottom  of  the  stejis,  we  found  a 
handsome  vaulted  passage  cut  through  solid  limestone. — 
The  light  of  our  candies  discovered  that  it  extended  hori- 
zontally into  the  mountain,  and  its  floor  was  covered  with 
an  unruffled  expanse  of  water,  four  leet  deep.  The  en- 
trance of  this  passage  was  pcrtectly  similar  in  form  to  the 
month  of  a  common  oven,  only  it  Avas  much  larger.  Its 
breadth,  by  my  estimation,  was  about  five  feet  at  tlse  v/a~ 
ter's  surface,  and  its  heiglit  four  or  five  feet,  reckoning  from 
the  same  p'ace. 

On  this  unexpected,  and  to  me  at  ihat  moment,  incorn- 
prciiensihlc  caiud,  we  found  launclied  a  large,  clean  and 
convenient  boat. 

We  end)arked,  and  p-iiled  ourselves  along,  by  takirjg 
jiold  of  wooden  j)egs,  fixed  ior  tlial  purpose  in  the  walls. 
Ohr  progress  was  tin\)iig;i  a  passage  w holly  artificial,  it 
iiaviuL;'  ix'fn  all  blasted  and  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock. 
N  OH  will  readily  believe  that  this  adventure  was  a  delight- 
.\il  n-creaiiuu.     1  never  felt  m.v;-t  tovcibiy  the   power  oi 


I.Nf.i.  WD,    JlOl.t.  WD     .\M»     ^iMr!-.M).  1   .«) 


•ontM-l.  Iii-.u';i.l  ii|  rr.iwliir/  tlir.'ii.'li  a  ii;iiim\v  iliriv 
,,v-, !_•'',  \M'  \M  If  lunv  ])|iM^.iitll\  irnli;it  k''il.  ind  wiio 
(.'isiiiii :  aloii'j 'mill  1  kiu'w  i;.ii  ulial  ^ulitaiA  rr'_'iMn^  mI  t!ii< 
•ii'l'-  1  arili.  n\i'\-  ail  rvpaiiM-  a^  v,'i-,ii.'  a^  Miniiin-i'  ^•m'^. — 
\\  <  iiail  not  till'  iiildiir--  iMi'  fh-'  ^ilkfii  -aiU  nI  ( 'liMjiatra"": 
;iai_'''.  iiiit  \\i-  t  \c'  lli-il  ii<  r  ill  m>'li'il\  o\  >-.Mmil.  ami  di^- 
r'.in'itu'--  "I  <'i'liii  :  Inr.  \s  lii'ii.  in  ilic  i:aii't\  I'l  ni\"  -pii  It^.  [ 
ii>'_' 111  to   ^iii'.'.    ill''  iHiitiiian    ^iMMi  <_'i\i'    III.'  to  ui;il'T-taiiil 

'!::■'    11'  .  .-IV  ^lloIlM  ^ni_;    1  h  hi  ^  I IMU  |H  a  1 11 .  \\  it  1  lol  It   ili^  |ii  Tllli^- 

::  ai!'!  Ill  loll-  I  ha  I  iitnar.!  thp'.-  imtr-.  h'-  lnoki  lonh 
'.::  ^Miii  a  Nirnii.  lliat  I  ua>  r,  .airnt.-.  I  to  livirii.  aiwl  \iilil 
'hi'  \>'.\\\i\  w  ithoiit  a  coiiti-t.  I  li>  \oici-.  u  hiih  u  a^  -iioiiLT. 
i\>-;\]  ami  im-|oiiioiiv.  iiia^lf  all  tliov,.  sili'ni  ifjion-  rin-  : — 
:h'-  I'OM  \aiilli''l  pa>--a'„''-  aajim  iiir,]  the  i  fl.  ri  : — icao  aii- 
-'.Mird  witli  ■■\i-,t\  ili-tim-Iii''--,  ami  lia^i  ;1m'  ■^■•uii  nt  i!it 
nioiinla'ai  !i'->ii  ilui.-.  ilr\  \vou|,|  ilmiliik  n-,  h.r,,'  iiktii 
|:  i-N  I  J'  with  u^,  anil  Ip  ai  k'  ii''l  to  1 1|.-  >i  aij.  In  tli>-  iiiian 
liiu'  •.".'■  li'L'  ni  to  hi  n  till'  SOI  1 1  hi  111  ;i  lii-Mii;  u  an  r  l.iil. 
will!  h  -jri'W  loiiijiT  ami  lomh  i.  a-  \\i-  .nivam a  li  limit  i'  ihi' 
iiioiiniain.  till  n  imai  a^i.l  n>  ^n<\\  a  lo.niii:  iioisr  th  il  the 
lio.iiiiian  co'ihi  no  hiti^rr  he  In  ai.l.  In  liiis  m mm  i'  \vr 
uiiit  oil.  a  ijiiMlii  ol  a  null,  till  ■.'.  f  ai  i  ;\  rj  in  a  \  ast 
rivi'in    l.|-;m'l     ihrni     !i\     naluir.       'I  ii.     iiiiiiias,    ii>     th"\ 

'\  '  1  I-    li!a-li:r_    I'l'-    :  or'.v,   .;I    1 1,1'  I    'II'    W  !irli  till  S     WrlT    I.  a  111- 

lin-  \aai;i  ■!  j':;->:i".-.  ai'.i.iini.ii!  \  ii|nn  'i  lla  :i  w  a  \  in- 
lo  ,liiv  I  iM-rm  lilt.  I  .tivf,i\  ri'  ti  lio\v  i!m  imimI  u  is 
■-  a  1 1 1 1 1 1 1  '  I  'A  1 ! :  I  \i.  a  1 1  r  :  --  1  I . .  1 1 ' :  ■  1  1 1 :  a  i  i ;  i  i  a  1 1 1  n  1 1  i ;  i  i ' .  1 1  •  1 1  with 
a  !  1  \  I  1  .  I  , : ! "  "  ":  t  h  r '  " .  a  1 1 . 1 '  I  I  \  I  I  M  a  l  ii  ■_  i  1 1  a  n  "  1  >  -.  w  1 1  h 
till  !l  I  111  '  I  |i  '-  ~a  I  .  aii'l  I  I'linv  'i  \ui  a  ]  ,i  .rl  i  nn-  I  w  i  iil  \  - 
Ir.f  I.  .  t  int..  a  .'.o  k    '■'<\  -^. 

\  I'll'  (  I . .-  -I  I  ■  I  Ml     I  n  ■  !  .  '  h'     • ,   u  ,' ',    Is  ci  iiiiii,'.  ,1  I ;  a 

io  a  v!  a  iiuiL   Uii  Im  I .  oii   tin    .  a.'.  !   sn!    .  iiu.  !■.  :i".-  in  t!i' 


130  A   JOLKXAL    OF    TRAVELS    VS 

-svhole  half  a  mile  fro.n  the  entrance.  The  end  of  the  arcii 
is  six  hundred  feet  below  the  summit  of  the  mountain. — 
When  it  is  considered  that  all  this  was  effected  by  mere 
dint  of  hewing,  and  blasting,  it  must  be  pronounced  a  stu- 
pendous j)erformance.  It  took  eleven  years  of  constant 
labour  to  effect  it.  In  the  mean  time  the  fortune  of  the 
adventurer  was  consumed,  without  any  discover}^  of  ore, 
except  a  very  little  lead,  and,  to  this  day,  this  great  work 
remains  only  a  wonderful  monument  of  human  labour  and 
perseverance. 

During  the  whole  period  of  five  years  tluit  they  continu- 
ed this  work,  after  they  crossed  the  cavern,  they  tiirew  the 
rubbish  into  the  abyss,  and  it  has  not  sensibly  fdled  it  up. 

They  have  contrived  to  increase  the  effect  of  the  cata- 
ract Ijy  fixing  a  gate  along  the  ledge  of  rocks  over  which 
the  river  falls.  This  gate  is  raised  by  a  lever,  and  then 
the  whole  mass  of  water  in  the  vaulted  passage,  as  well  as 
that  in  tlie  river,  presses  forward  towards  the  cataract. 
I  ascended  a  ladder  made  l)y  j)ieces  of  timber  fixed  in  the 
sides  of  the  cavern,  and  with  tlie  aid  of  a  candle  elevated  on 
a  pole,  I  could  discover  no  lop:  my  guide  assured  me 
that  none  had  Ijeen  found  aldiougli  they  had  ascended  very 
high.  Tbi^  ( avern  is,  withi.ut  exception,  the  most  grand 
and  soletnn  pUice  that  I  have  e\er  seen.  When  you  view 
me  as  in  the  centre  of  a  mountain,  in  the  midst  of  a  void, 
wliere  tlie  re<iiilarity  of  th<;  walls  looks  like  some  vast  ro- 
tund;).; whcii  yoi  tliinlv  ol'  a  river  as  flowinc  across  the 
Ixittom  of  ibis  caxcrn.and  falHi!';^  abruptly  into  a  profoiuul 
abvs^,  uilhthe  stunning  noise  fif  a  cataract;  wIhmi  you 
ini;e.r;n.'.  Iiiat  by  the  li/ht  of  a  fire  work  of  iriin -powdtT 
play-'d  o'i'  n\  Miii-pose  to  render  this  (kiikni\ss  visib'i',  the 
fo:un  of  the  fiitariu't.  Is  i!!iM>!!i!:itcd  even  down  to  the  ,sur- 


hNi.lWl).     lim   I    \M)      \\i)     >.'.i(\M). 


i,;i 


f,U  r  iii'llif  Wiit'l  III  ill"'  aliS^N.  .ilh!  llir  r,i\-  i|!iill>-i|  l>\  tin 
li\  hi  iii,i/i'  n|  tliK  [irijiaiaiioii,  aif  nilt'i-tiil  .ilnii'j  iln  ilrip- 
[iiiiL'  A.ilU  I'l  tlif  r,i\t  rii,  till  till  \  air  jiivt  in  iln  'iaiki  r  ii'- 
'jii'!|s  all.  ■%  r.  \  I'll  \\  ill  iii)t  \s  tail irr  tliat  Mich  a  xcih'  slidiiM 
M  i/.r  cii  iii\  wliiii'-  ^iMil,  an!  till  nil'  willi  auc  ami  a-loii- 
i-Innrjii,  call-in.'  nir  lo  rxrlaim.  a--  I  iii\  oliinlai  ily  ilnl  — 
iii'iri-'  ll'iiis  iif    tin/  in  r'.s.  l.i,r<l  ( i(jil  .  ihni^lil  ii  ' 

\  !(•  I  a-i'>-n.iiiiL'  InMii  till'  iia\  i'jatioii  inliK'.  1  alK  iii|il' ti 
iM  ;  ,1  ujt  ih'  111  a  it  III  ( ail'  ul  llir  nil  ill  main-.  \s  illi  tin-  liniiliir 
l.Mrpii^i  i.I  iilitaiiiiirj  a  \\v\\  i\\  t'.a'  \a'li\  lii'iii  an  iliAalnl 
jM.i;,i.  ,'!,.;  Ill  H' iiliiii'.:  ill''  aiii'i'iil  ca^llr.  i'.iil.  in\  hilimir 
jirMVi.;  j!  .iili^-.;  tlif  iiiiiuiil  nil.  wlii'li  Iihiii  tin'  \,i!liv 
M't'llini  Ui'l  liUlii'illl  III  a^iTUij.  |iiii\cil  III  hi'  t  \Ciciliili:l\ 
-!■  I  I'.  1  l.i.li  .1  mi.  luii  Illi^l|^  iif  ll;i'  ua\  up.  -lill  liiiiiinL: 
!l  -i'  i;>'  1  ami  ^li'iMi  r.  ami  siill  i<  -.hImiI  imi  in  rc!im|iiiv|i 
ni\  I'liijMi^i-  :  in  ilii  ni-aii  lian'  it  -nu  ilaik.  wiili  ilir  ilr- 
i:a\  I  I  tuiii.'lil.  anil  I  wa-  -Miiilmlx  i'n\i'lii| in  1  in  iiii-l  aim 
iM.n:  i;ii  ^li'i  p  ~i.|i  nl  liii'  nmiailaiii  1m  c-amr  \ii\  -.|iji|ii  - 
lA  :  1  li  II  III  i:i|i'nll\  .  ami.  a!  liii_lli.  a  liii  |)  .iiiii  alirii|)l 
rli.i-M  !■  a  11  ii\  III"'  iIhmU.  I  '  laijili  I'  U  ai  I  '■-!-■.  1  in  \  ]iii"ji  i-«. 
aial  ri  iinj  II  111  i|  nii'  \'i  inakf  lln  In  ^t  n;  ii!\  \va\  ilnwii. 
uliii!.  I  iliii  \siili  nil  >iii.iil  lin'iiruhs.  Ill  llii'  niiii^i  n' 
-iaikii'  •>  aii'l  lain.  I  Maclii-I  lln'  (  a  ^lli-l  nil.  '"i  mi  |  ili-'n  1 ". 
'iriiiriai!.  ami  r\liaii>i'  .i  \s  nil  tall  Jill'. 

^lii  :i  i  I ,.  —  I'ln:  >r  \ii  Ml  M.  w  a^  lln  iiiiK  nn  Inviiv  ni'  ^l:.• 
l,  ,il!i  .  Ill  (  .i-lii  Imi  u  iihli  n  niaiu!  li  l.i  Im'  r  yjii.  ti  il.  1  i  i«-i 
Willi  nai^ili  >  Miini  \\  Ii  at  ri'ni  li  i  an  lla  l,iti_  la'  i  il  \  i  -It  a  - 
i!.i'.  ■  -I'i  iinini-iiialiis  |i-|Mi1i'iI  In  lin-  iiiiiuili  i-l  \\\v  mini 
1 1  laa  i\  •  -  ll>  nan  II'  ll  mil  it~  1  h  !  i  i^  I  iir  |  .!,mi'  \i  lit  1  r  1 1  !•■ ' 
I  li  Plain  I  la  In  ml  i  111  luiiii  !  al-.  km  i\\  ii  I'l  inin'M  ak  i::  i-N  !i\  I  la: 
aiij.i  liaMiiM  1  li  I'll  ir  ■-]  lai.  ami  In  ;  iir  I  >•  I'l  \  >li,  i  •  nma  i--  li\ 
'  i  I"    .l"iin.        I  ill'   iiiiui-   i-   -'I  I  'i.'  •  i|,'  II-  ika    \\    ■.- 


132  A  .lOliRNAL  01'  TRAVELS  IX 

nctts.  It  was  first  opened  for  lead,  but,  being  found  to 
affoid  very  little  besides  the  fluor  spar,  was  neglected,  till 
tliis  substance,  by  the  discovery  of  a  new  art,  acquired  a 
value  which  it  had  never  possessed  before.  During  the 
last  forty  years  the  mine  has  therefore  been  wrought  for 
the  fluor  spar  alone,  since  ingeiuiity  has  contrived,  by  the 
assistance  of  the  lathe,  to  convert  this  very  brittle  mineral 
into  caiullesticks,  pillars,  pyramids,  artificial  grottoS; 
urns,  vases,  and  other  ornamental  and  useful  productions, 
vvliirh  now  form  some  of  the  most  splendid  and  exquisitely 
beautiful  decorations  of  the  halls  of  nobility,  and  of  the 
palaces  of  kiiigs. 

"^riie  rnoutii  of  the  mine  is  situated  in  the  side  of  a  high 
hiil,  and  is  closed  with  a  door  luruished  with  a  lock.  This 
door  1  found  shut,  and  was  not  able  to  obtain  admittance 
till  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  owing  to  a  misunder- 
stantling  as  to  the  hour,  between  me  an.d  my  guide.  The 
jntervenintr  time  was  spent  in  making  up  for  the  defeat  of 
last  night,  by  clambering  the  mountains,  aiul  taking  views 
of  this  interesting  valley  from  several  points.  On  the 
heights  I  found  a  gentleman  and  lady,  who,  like  me,  had 
couK,"  to  see  the  cuiiosities  of  the  place.  Peo})le  who  are 
on  the  same  adventure  easily  become  acquainted;  I  found 
vhem  very  aii'al)]e  and  polite:  we  were  familiar  at  once, 
an.i  formi'd  a  little  [)arty  u})  Mam  Tor.  We  found  the  as- 
cent steep  and  laborious,  nor  had  we  quite  reached  the 
sunuriit,  whc^n  I  descried  the  people  coming  up  out  of  the 
d:u)v  ui' tf.e  spnr  v.;  ne,  which  tlu'v  had  closed,  aiul  locl.cd 
a'  "i'  tin;  II,  wlirn  they  de.scem'ed  to  work  in  the  morning. 
^\ 'iiie  i  iiasieue  1  ilown.  aU'.l  secured  lie-  oiiide-.,  theeende- 
})ia;i  and  l.i'ly  li.lioN.ed  mnre  '('iili  •-.•at-l.,  but  wlu'u  they 
arrived,  and   .saw  tlie   mouth  of  tlii?  Uioriny  Arhfroii.  \\-'~' 


SI    i    \  \  ,  • .    1  r  .  I   I .   V  M )     \  M )    - .'  .     1  I .  ^  M  • . 


.11. 


;       tlMii    .'  i;    ii.i:t  ..'  (I    \-    '  'Uiii   -;(  ]i--.   .:;    .■  r    ■:    \ 
■  ■   :    \\ .'    I'i'.i    I  J(i!i  I    !•    i    l!ii '  HI',  'i     |i.!- 

,    I    I..\\  .    ;;ii  i    I'  i,>lii-.'.|    Hi!,  lly     \:.     (Ill'    ci  h- ;  ii.t 

,  ,   w  It'  I'  111  Ml  III'    1  •M.:'  .lini   \>.  alls.  I  hi!  i)r(  a  .i,,;,,i;i\-. 

,    \'  .  i'-  u  M>-    I.I'  I  !i  .11  \  .  [  1 1'-  ■  i.ihi'.'  iiiiiiH  'uiis  cav  I'! :!-  I  ■! 

,ii! '    i!'  i:'".~i"ii^.    vv  11'  i''    I "    ivS    an.  1    I  1  !    , 

,    .    II'!  .  J     111    i'\  I'l  \    ■_  r. ,;.  -.Mil"   ,111,1    tiiir.i!'  Mill  ' 

W  '•  ii>  -   •  ii  I'  ,1    ;  '  '  I"  ii-i!''.,',.!  1 »    i:;"' .  a  i!i  (  ji    [,',i.    w  !ii  r.' 
■.    ■'    '■'    it  r,  .!  t  Mill-  mill..  .   I'll  '  I  '    ^I'lii  :    \'.  t-  in.':!,'  <      • 

.,      ll\     ■-!'   i'l    i.         "'1      I  111  '•     -    ,.l      \\  n.  ,,  I.      II  \i  (I     III      ;    ii' 

\  .1  .   -,   ,1  ;:.|    I  ,:i    -,:'-il     |.ri,   ,  rllMi'.-    Ill     iIk     Ini   1.  -    ,U   C'iiir    i.l 
i     V  \  '    ill''     !)"M'  Ml    '    ;'    I  '■!  -      ;.il.     ill'  I  '      \.      ,  ■        ■   ',  ,     ,   ; 

.  '1   -|>  ii .    .liM   !  .        ■  <il    i(  liji  V.  iili  i!ii' 

I  I  .        \  Ml    w  i  ,'•  \  .  .!.!'   .  !-■!  il.  -'  . '  .;.l   <ii!,.r 

I .        ■.     lir  \        :  I'    ii.i'i'    mm!    Ill    iiiiii'    s;.  .'i.'^ 

■  ,i  "11^    iMiiiUi'wiiv    j     ; ;  ii.i.-;  r  ,:i^  I  1    ■-!i.  .i   ,;   'ii.    .ii;il 


\'   .;   ill,'  I     'I'l'ii    •(  ill'    In',     .  .'.  ;    ,     .  ,1  !,.:i\  '  .-..in, 

vJl'Ti     111'     '  .■    i;|.  I'^l   III'    lis     "!i    t:,.'    I    ,c!\v,     ;ii;,l     til'' 


'II-  '1^1 


.1    -t   ll.i.  \'\r..   ,■•.;, iiiil,-,! 


I  -;-!i  ;.  il'i  IV- 


'   '  '■.,:i  "I  1'    lit  li"iii  ">'r  M'ii.il'  V. 

W,  '    ,,•  \i  ii  ,1  \\  !■  .  i    I  111    il;  'I    a,i  a|,'  ri,ir''    ^u  nai  i .  .w    liial 

I"     !   '     .ll     ,.   >l    ,  '"«.    '.     |i  -I    llj     l:,\    \M  '•     111    I'll 

.    '  '      i'l  -,    III  I  Pill  •    ;,.a!^    ■       i:i\    \\  a  .  .  iia'li 

'\    lira.  ■  -     .         a  Ji   1 .1      ii;i|  I.       I  lilt,    I   ii..i    in  it     ir- 

:  it     tin-        '    III      .    |,i     ,v  !■      (Ill    i|    II    M.    \i  >    ;  I  a    li,    ui;!.',,! 

,.     .    '."     III.       .'  k      :',      .1    r        111    li    i    11    \"     !•■.,,.:•.    .•,•- 

;    "   :.  I.     ,  p  ('vf  .t,ii_  s  .ll     t.  •' .  I   ri^''. .  iiMi"'    ii  .a.t.  pa  , 


134         A  JOIRXAL  OK  TRA\fiLS  IX 

and  more  perfect,  tlian  I  had  seen  before.  In  one  plactf 
tlicy  had  extended  from  the  roof  to  &  horizontal  jirojec- 
tiou  in  the  rock,  and  formed  an  assendjiapc  very  mnch 
resendjiing  the  pipes  of  an  organ,  he.ice  this  place  is  call- 
ed tlte  oruon. 

Nothing;'  can  be  of  a  pnrer  or  more  dazzlinq-  white,  than 
were  some  of  tiiese  stalactites  and  incrustations.  The 
miners  tliink  they  are  produced  by  a  petrifaction  of  tlie 
water,  and  hence  they  call  them  ivateridc,  from  an  evi- 
dent and  natural  allusion  to  icicles.  The  ];)rocess  of  their 
formation  is  precisely  that  of  the  production  of  icicles  and 
incrustations  of  ice  on  the  sides  of  mountains,  except  that 
the  latter  arise  from  an  actual  con<:ealin!i-  of  tlie  water  by 
cold;  the  former  from  a  gradual  deposition  of  the  lime 
which  water,  under  certain  circumstances,  had  the  power 
to  dissolve.  As  it  lilters  througii  the  rocks,  tiie  lime  is 
gradually  deposited  in  a  crystalhne  form,  and  generates 
stalactites  if  it  fall  perpendicularly,  or  incrustations  wlien 
it  runs  down  an  inclined  j)lain,  or  adheres  to  a  perpendic- 
ular one.* 

My  guides   pointed  out   tlie  moutli    of  a   cavern  into 

■  Limestone  i?  not  soliiMe  in  niirc  water,  Ijut  wlien  the  water 
U  impregnated  with  carhnnic  acid,  (fixed  air)  il  tlissolvs  the  iiine 
.•■tone  with  siiHicienl  ea^c.  ^Vhen  >valer,  l!ius  char^cJ.  O't/.ci 
llirongh  the  roofs  of  caverns,  liie  carl)onic  acici,  h.-ini;  a  aa: cuus 
acid,  evaporates,  and  the  earthy  matter  v\  hicii  it  hr'i!  i,i  ..oliitiou 
\i  thus  de|ioslted  in  the  various  grolcs(iiie  forms  \\'i!(;li  a'-e  com- 
mon in  the  caverns  in  lime  stone  coinidic-.  I'iie  '.'.e-teMi  and 
.south  western  states  abound  in  fine  exnnipl.  ■  os  (his  sort,  and 
some  of  tiiem  have  been  explored  ior  miles.  A\'iei-s  cave  in  \  ir- 
c,inia  is  oiie  of  the  most  celebrated.  Its  s(:>laefi;es  ;;re  as  large 
and  beautiful  as  those  of  Derbyshire,,  aiiu  the  caveru  is  more  e>: 
tensive. 


fv,.:  •  vn.   ii.ii.i.  \\;t    vni.   -'iii  vM'.  ^■''■i 

mImcIi  III'-,  ilii'w  :.ll  liirir  lu'iM-li  :  i!i.  \^  li.l  lii.'v  li;ul 
fr.i.iJ  ii  '1(1  u\i>v<-  liiiiii  ;i  mil''  uitliciil  liiuliiij  lI^  tt'iiiiina- 
limi. 

I  II. h!  li.iu-  ^iir\<\i'.l  all  ill.'  siilitt  riancan  \^un.i'■l^  u\ 
tIm'  I'l-.ik.  .iii'i  tea.  ill', I  ill  val(l_\   liir  Mirlar.'  dl'  tin'  LM-iiml. 

Oil  iriiiniiir:.  I  r.i:iiii  at  liu'inii  ni_\  law  coiiii.aiih'Us, 
w  iiM  liaii  11  !i  1,1'  ■]  at  llic  iiiniilli  cl  til.-  mil'.-.  'I'll.  _\  -I'riil- 
i-:n  1.1  lii\i'  lakf  II  a  -li.  .:'.  ii!i'Ti'-l  ill  in\-  a.l\ .  ntiirt'.  ami 
i.i  I.  ,  I  -Mill-  j.-jr.l.  an!  a  lill!"'  iii.a  ti  li.Mlii.ii.  lint  tlii'V 
ha.i    ■■'  \<  ,1  \\\\    I.  iiii<;iil.-li.ii  til.'  MiidrrlakiiPj. 

\  liii!  ■  ,iii.  I-  li\r  I  |ir.M-,r,!,  li  i,a-  I'liM.'H.  \  M-cndiiiL' 
rii''  \\  ii'ii'  !!>.  !  i.':i-'T'.  .-.I  a  li.'a\_\  I'ai  I .  .  I.  (  [  il\  la.liii.  lii'- 
^.•.■!|,;,iij  ill,,  lull.  'I'ii.-  ,!ii\.l  Irlil  lak.  il  ..tl'  tlllrr  ..!  Ills 
ii,.i~.  N.  u  liaai  ail'  iiMi.iiU  liari..  >-.''l  Ihi  <  .  a.>iii  I'nr^xl- 
\,ia!,i.  ir.  a  -iiijl"  \i>\\.  aiiM  la.t  alnf,isi.  anil  liaij  la-lfinil 
til.  Ill  ia  till'  ^ '.111.  .  .r.iij-  III  liiihl  lii.'cait.  'I  la-  a  aiiiiaU.  if 
M.IM-.  ai.  tia!!,.'!  Ill  kii'ivk.  til. It  1,1  iki^  situ. Mi. ai  tli._v 
nri-i  lia  ,_  lia.  k.  u  iili  ..1!  ilui;-  |..iu  cr.  aial  ilnis  1 1  lir\  i-  ilir 
li  II--.  ill  !■  .  kil!^.  In  Ml  a  w  I'.lil  wiinli  il  \\.iiilil  li.'  iiiijin^r 
^  i  1 1 1 .  ■  1 1 1 1    1 1 1  i  1 1  ill  ^  1 1  ■- 1 ; !  I !  I . 

(li Di.ii'.K  \i,  i;i  \i  \i;k-  ON  1  hi:  im:  \k  m  i'::i;i,\  -iiii;i. 

Miiiiujii  la.i-t  i-l' ill.  tiijii.  N  .ij  llii^  .li'iirii.il  arc  raln^-i 
;.|[i!i'm.  til  ill  |i:.''.  --Il'  :.-ik  1  .i.i  ii'.I  kiil'l  iii  \  v.  !  f  1 1.  ,i,iii  1 
iulii.  !\  I  I  al»-i  nil  liiiai  -■  i.  alili'  .ii  ji .  --;' m^.  [iiii\i.i..l 
111'  _\  ai.-  ..ii  ^'ilr.  .-1-  ia  iii.-ii-  ii.iMif  int.  II  -iia_  .iial  nnji'ir- 
t.i^M.  .iii'l  a! .  la  it  ;,.a.  a^.iii  iliK  i  •-.: .  ,mI.i  k  in  ai.v  t'\riil 
}•■'!   .Ill   iiMil    I  I  .a;iil'_;   ik.  ,ii    ll    \  ni   .  lii.n-.'. 

'>!•   -I     I"  I":!-.    liiii-->iiL    lii  .1   tki-   J.i').'   w  as  (  1  ;  ,it.-,i    \i\ 

I'ii'     11  i:   II'    I  hi-     \  iai;    kt\  .      .i  |  h  -ii  a  m   w  liicli  lam.'    In  it    aa 

■-!■■  -'   "H,l  I,  ■.  -li.ia.     i-niil.  '.Il   ill.  a  I-.- 1  \.  s  Willi    ill,,  aiiiiii-- 

'lii-  •_■  la  J..1  il  mil.    •■tiiil  (III  1.1. 1  I  \.  11  ill,  ..in  ill. It  M, 


fjO  A    JOURNAL    OF    TIIAVKL3    IN 

this  rude  earth,  seenunfzJy  made  uj)  of  mere  brute  mate- 
t'ials,  lbrtui{oi!.sly  assembled,  and  presenting  only  an  em- 
blem of  cliaos,  there  is  a  real  though  oonocaled  order  ol' 
arrangement  :— u  structure  according  to  lixer!  laws. — a 
iiatara!  associ:uion  of  particular  mineral  substances  and 
strata. — and  ia  short,  abundant  disjjlays  of  the  same  wis- 
dom, jiower  and  goodness,  which  are  so  ajMjarent  in  the 
fi.vo  nlher  kingdoms  of  n-iture.  Tlie  study  of  these  facts 
coi'.siitutcs  theo'iject  of  modern  irct)io!:ry,  a.  science  of  very 
!-ecent  origin  :  in  shoil,  it  is  the  iiatural  history  oi'  the 
globe,  and  as  s:i(;!i,  ir  is  a  i)rancii  of  stu'.'y,  rich  in  inter- 
estieg  facts,  and  alumd.anlly  api'Hcable  to  human  wants. 

We  m!_-::it  not  confound  it  with  those  snecidatlons,  often, 
distinguished  tor  boldness  and  briUian'v,  and  arrayed 
in  tlie  cIiuvMis  of  a  sjdendid  and  i'a^cinaling  eloquence, 
ivhich  some  tlieoiists  Itave  clothe.j  with  t!:e  name  of  geol- 
ogy. It  couM  no  longer  be  asse;  ted,  without  the  hazard 
;tf  inci!rri!!r^  cxtrcsKe  rliiicale,  <  vrn  ajnonp'  tbiose  \\lu.>  are 
not  anxious  to  recom'sio  liature  aad  revelation,  that  the 
eartli  aul  t'^e  otjier  |.!ai)i!s  \veie  sirrck  oil"  iVom  the  sun 
by  ill''  t;di  (  fa  e-'';!!.!  ;  ihat  ■!;•  y  aciji'irod  theii'  globular 
l\)ri!»  '.y  ■;!;  '-o:^  ■  a;.!'.  ,  i'-oi'  coijibt;,-:  L'n(jec-h  ages,  became 
iitted  f:>r  t':  '  i.ai  !!  :li^ii,s  of  li\ing  Ijii  i:,"-. '  It  would  bo 
f asy  Ol    'ol  a  v-i:!;>;c  \\id;    the   drr,i!-!- of   |aiih>soiiby  on 

il.'r-    ;i;;;-i::Ct  ;    b;;:    -I'dli  ,],:  ;\];>^   \\  e  InnC  ;:t   j;;\-,^  ;lt   UO  CoU- 

.■■■.u:  we  Hdl  co-ubie  o:o-r'!vo<  t)  I'cis.  i^en  fiets, 
iiowv  ■  "!■,  '\  ilh;;  ;c  ihfor\",  ii:i\  e  s:>  •;:!;! dob*  d  upon  us,  that 
s'k:  V  b^ii-  1  • ;;  '/:  {.■(  !!i'>  JfHjn'a!  \rou;  '  Uc  iiiad<'!;ua'o  to 
a  hiil  -;at'  ,e>  !:t  oi'  da. in. 

^\  o  \'-\[\  at  \:v.'''\.i  advi  ft  to  do  jno!\:  tii.ui  ;!i'e  nccessu- 
;-y  to  rci'dor  die  r.::A-.  rA'  ;)eri»yshiie  !:iieMij.ibI.: 


K.Ni.l.  WD.  H'MI.ANn   AND   -cr.xi.wn. 


1  ■<: 


FIh^  LM'tattT  part  of  our  iiUtUv  is  niaii-'  up  of  locks. 
riiiiM'  iMck^  wliicli  M'tiii  to  I'Driii  i;s  il  \v<'ri',  tli<'  iiuclfus 
(if  till'  ul"!"'.  wliicli  lie  hciir, It'll  all  llir  utliri-<.  ami  thcn.^- 
t'i>i\'  inriii  ili.'ir  liavis,aihl  w  iiich  ucc,isi(inal!y  pu>li  iliioii'ili 
all  til.'  Dtlirrs,  aiiM  Inni!  tin'  lii-ln'^t  peak-  and  lidLfc^: 
uhirli  rri'(|iiriitly  pii  M'Hi  ^iiala  alimwi  p(  i-pi-ndiciikii-.  ami 
f.(T,i^iiiiMll\  (luili'  Ml.  ami  whirli.  il'  n^t  m-i'U  tui  tlir  Mil- 
iars, tlinr  i>  f\ir\  rra-iMi  to  In Tn'\i'  a!ua\s  i  \i>l  iidow  : 
till'  I'.u  k>  i.!'llii>  (li'^nipiioii  ail'  ciiiiipovid  mainly  ol  ciys- 
tali/i  d  iiiatiTiaN,  ;iiid  m'\rr  CMiiIain  any  orL''aiii/.rd  re- 
inaiii>  :  mi  impi  i'--:.^ii^  uf  |.  a\  i -.  li^li.  sin  lU.  ur  in  ^liort, 
aii\  iiaiiiianl^  111  li\iii_f  i^riiiLi^.  and.  in  -' lu  lal  no  iVau'- 
nll•^t^  III'  oilirr  rmk^. 

'In  tlii^  i'la>s  111'  riii'k>  tin-   nanii'  ol'  priin'd'iri   has  ix-rii 
npplird. 

linnndiati'l'v  ^npi  rim  miilHut  npnn  iliiv  h  isis.  wr  liiul 
amiili'T  di'M-i  ijii  aai  <il  i  dck^.  w  lin  ii  arc  o!  nil  lii.diU  n'\  s- 
tahm-  ill  ill  ir  rnaipM^iliciii.  Inilan  ii^iialU  ni'irrcr  Irss. 
and  -liim  liini'-  \  1  1  \  iDarii.  nilxr  I  w  ilh  li  .^'.ran  ni-  ;!i!d  pnr- 
timi-.  wlinli  lia\i'  ln'iii  la'  '  Ii  oiiraij  \  liri.ivin  'i.ai  ntin'i 
toi'kv,  ,iud  na 'ii'  or  h  N~  \'.mmi  !i\  atiriiiun.  I;:  ;'.-ir  pu- 
■-ilaMl.  iilr\  air  licillnl'  illt  r,.';  xrilical:  llir\  1  ,  <aip\' 
an  ii.lri  iiirdialr  pii-iiiiiii  ;  tlic\  i:irii\  i',.rii!an  aa'  Ic  willi 
till'  linri/.oii  111'  Ir-.  liiaii  '.a!  ,  nr  ih.mt  ihaa  i.".  <.;•  .a)  : 
liM'V  a  If  iirraMiinalU  lilli-d.  nioii'  I  a-  Ir^-s,  w  i'li  iaaai'-sioiis 
^d  il  inaiii^  el  plants  and  ainui  iN:  n--  I'^U.  li^w,  \t\\  o\ 
Miiiat  rar:  ^  .iiui  ^aia'it  >,  -^la  il  a^  arr  laa   a:i,\  i..  !ii'  Niiuni 


i\iii;.  Ml",  il  liii'  aiiiinalv  arr  m  ai;\  ni^t.irrr 
1^  i\\  inid.  lihA  ail'  I  a  I  111'  Imiiilili'^l  r 'di  i'^  i  a' 
■\idi|'.!l\    iMivs,-^-,  (1   lii.'   111(1  ,i-a.ti\rs  III'    Ih'a    in 


an.;!r  i^  a--  ^iiri'l  ,i     !' 


138  A   JOURNAL    OP    TRAVEL.-.    IN 

dcaree,  and   were  fienerally   incapable  of  locomotion, — •' 
This  class  of  rocks  has  been  called  the  transition  class. 

It  is  not  always  present  in  every  country,  but  when  it 
is,  lis  position  will  i)e  found  to  be  such  as  has  been  de- 
scribed.* 

The  upper  rocks  of  ilio  elobe,  those  which  rej)oseupon 
one  or  the  other  of  the  jjrecediiig  class  s  are,  in  their 
coniposition,  much  less  crystahne  5  earthy  materials  and 
Ua  ;nients  jirevail  much  more  in  them,  and  frequently  they 
are  aL'iiO!-t  entirely  composed  of  these  :  in  their  position 
t-'i!  y  are  nearly  or  quite  horizontal,  in  general  do  not  rise 
into  peaks  aiid  ridges,  but  form  the  lower  and  flat  portions 
of  the  surface.  They  often  abound,  to  an  astonishing  de- 
gree, with  the  reijiains  of  animals;  seeming  as  if  they 
wen;  one  vast  cemetery  of  the  beins^s  of  former  periods. 
In  the  more  sii;)erfn  ial  and  more  loosely  coherent  of  these 
strata,  we  frequently  find  just  such  animals  as  are  now 
living — shells  and  fish,  and  even  i)lants  of  known  genera^ 
anil  ill  somo  instiuioes  even  of  known  species.  These 
rocks  are  c;uled  spvondarij. 

Tliere  is  a  fourtli  class  of  much  less  inij)ortance,  com- 
posed e\Idently  of  the  mere  t'ragments  of  the  preceding 
classes,  sometimes  vejy  coarse,  at  other  times  finely  divi- 
ded, and  citiier  coherent  or  loose  in  difi'erent  cases. 

Their  position  is  of  course  fiat ;  they  i.avt^  no  appear- 
aiHes  of  crystalization  ;  l]u\v  frecpiently  c(j;)tain  animal 
;.;;(!  vei- Sabie  lemains;  sometimes  entire  trees  5  quachu- 
peds,  and  the  -argest  animals,  sucii  as  e]r  phants,  mam- 
u)oths,  &c. 

■  That  i?.  tj.ey  ii'o  wr-xf^.t  ivnihr  tlic  traii-iliua  run!  primilivo,  and 
>vhf;n  tliey  i.pi.ewr  .it  ;;!!   arc  at   ;;!e  tor;.   'nU   in   maiij'  extensive 

(!;.-..;,  t^  .,..-.r.;^;.,f,  ,,,  ^c^nudai'v  "o'-ks  are  a;  \\\>:  '^U!fa<:e 


f  \..:    ,M>.    ii^if.i  WD    And    -i..!; wd.  1',^ 

I'iii-  (■I.i>>  iilrnrk.  Is  (iill.'il  ntlnrinl,   ,mi  !  .:!!    nnr   ■-(.!!- 

'I  iirn'  i~  ai!';ili'  r  .iinl  a   ■rill  iiuin'  Hi:iiii''l  >  l,i^^  u!  i-iM-k>, 

w'lH  ll    !:;i\.'    liri'li    t'.. Mill  'I    !i\     Viilcilli;.-   Tiri-   ,\\\'\    !l\    (  llipliull- 

t'l  \ 'i!i\ii.Mi-.  :  i!i.\.  liii\s .'» 1  1-.  .IK'  u-!iill\  !  M- li  .III'!  |-.ir- 
tnl  ill  tin  ii'  <  \i''iil. 

N>\V    I'M'   nli;r,-t    i   i'    :ii|     lll<'-.'    Ii  lillf!.-    i-     tn   .l-'i'l  I.ii  II     !■• 

\\\{.>-\\  .  ;;i->  111--  iiH-:,  ^  ..ftlif   I'l  j!v  I't'  I  ''liiv  0  iiv  !.    ',>'... 

'I   II'   ".     .11  I     I  \  ill.  mix  ,     il.  '1    I'll    ;i!ii\  ■•,     Inr    ll'f    V,  I;,   ].      I'l  ,liv 

|':''-fii'^  \\\\i'  I  \.iiiiji!rs  I'l  i'i"-c  ^iiMl,'  ii;  liiii''  ^;.■.    ■.  wl.irh 

1ms  r  Ih  r:i  (ili\  |.  .ilvU  l'.  i;!;i.  ,i  v;i,"(  i!|.-  rr,  .'ti:  111  i,:  .i,,i!n;lN, 
\<V     ill     tin-    l'H-;,>     (III     ['i;.'     ^'i;    .i-.'.      ill     ill''     -■,'    l!i'    I'lK  I'-,    ill 

i!i''  mat'  I'i  iN  (•;  t!i'  !:'>!i-'  •.  .i::.:  iii  i'li'  m'  p'ii-  !■!  \h^■  c  i\'- 
n-|i>;i:iil  iiiiii''-.  I'.i  ^'ii:ir  ,;!-I;iii.'i  ■>  ;i  li'ili-  li"i:i  il:'\  ii  :il." 
W  I'  ll'.'l   \  .i^i  .l-^•  ;;i'  ■!  :  Jr~  .  ■:  ;iiii  !:;;!>  ^  : , ;    .|ii'r  A  ,:i  lii,r'  --h'lli' 

(I  II' I  i:  :.!■--,  ,    ;  -  'ii  !    ,'-  llir    r. "  k    w  ''i'V,    (-"iiiiiiii^  !  i'l'iii. 
hi      U'l-  ;i:    ;-';liil    ;i'ii:'i  il-.    ^'I'-i;   ,:<  I.  ,;,|.    :,'■..[    ;i,.'_'^, 

'l!   'V    I.'         :        ■   '   .1     !"i;.;l!\    T'l'lll'l   .liis.'   ill    -      iii,    i:,.!— •   -  >    \    <  .\\\\\ 

'.       \   ■.!'•.    liM'   '  ■.;in,|.li  N  i>r    ilii-,   !siii'i     1;  ,\  .     i)'  ,  ;;  'At;.  :)i'l\- 
I     iiP   \     (I'l     11"!      lOlll''     I.M'i'  1'     til"     (M-i-     li; 


111'.     .11;. I     l;i'  .1  ' 
\^  i ; ! '  ■ '  I    v.  '    :  I !  1  •     1 1 . .  A     ;  I '  1 V '  I  ! , ; .    .        I'M.    ■-  i  i '  '  i    :  i ; ,  i '  r ; !  ^    i  r  i  •,  •  • 
i  '     ;!ir.     cii.i     _  I-     ill    lii'-    .  i-i.'i'liii'i'U!    m|'    tli;'i; 

''•!'•  i  '  -  :    111'  '.  I..''.'    r,'.;  !i'  '  11   mil.'  i.ili,'  .'.    i.'.!  liii  r   '>\''    <''.o 
ii"l   ;    nil!.''    ;■'    ;il!  i.;    \'a'-  \\\:';\<    "T   li:f  i..  :i'<r  wlii    I|  -'^    - 

.    ."-   '  -    |ii.  ..i.     :il,'i    i,''\\  r\  .  r   'iliii'-i.il     i;    !IM  V     :"•   K' 

.  ''  'M    f.v.'-Ul  ■•    t"  t:.'         .                '                ■  . '    . 
.                                 ■   :  ;    l':i|i'. 

i .             :■          1    M  ;h.;'        -.  '  .ii.i    .1'  Ii:-'    I'lnk. 

,':     .  ■      ,.'    i'  .!  iiir.i  I'-ir 

M' .    .  _.,!.■>!  ■  'I  111.       'I  i  I  ■. 

ill  I  -'    .        ■         '                       ■      !  \   ;:'m;'  1 .  'i/-.  ii'i"  !i:i---i    I'l'ik^  at  '• 

I  i.<  iUUHM!-'    i:i!>i    :              ■   ■    ' 


1 :  'A  i: , I   I  > 11  I'l .  :    '    ;;i 1  ;• 


140  A  JOURNAL  OF  TRAVELS  IN" 

hav'e  existed  before  the  formation  of  these  mountains,  and 
the  materials  of  the  mountains  must  have  been  either  iu  a 
previous  state  of  solution,  or  of  mechanical  suspension  in 
some  fluid,  otherwise  they  would  not  have  been  at  liberty 
to  concrete  around  the  organized  bodies,  in  such  a  manner 
as  to  enclose  them  on  all  sides,  and  to  receive  their  im- 
pressions exactly.  The  aninnd  remains  at  the  Peak  arc 
often  encrinites  and  entrocites  ;  the  linx  stone  ahliough 
not  highly  crystaline,  is  \ery  considerably  so,  and  it  is 
probable  that  it  belongs  to  the  very  iiighest  of  the  second- 
arv,  or  perhaps  more  pioperly  to  the  transition  class,  and, 
to  this  class  I  believe  the  British  (Geologists  are  inclined 
to  refer  it. 

The  submersion  of  the  globe  beneath  an  incumbent 
ocean,  is  proved  most  al)undantly  by  the  records  which  it 
contains  within  itself.  In  sacred  writ  this  submersion  is 
distinctly  stated  to  have  occurred  twice  ;  first  at  the  pri- 
meval period  of  chaos,  when  the  earth  was  "without 
form  and  void,  and  darkness  was  upon  the  face  of  the 
dee|),''  and  secondly  at  the  delug<;  of  ISoah.  1  he  struc- 
ture of  the  cart!;  is  clear! .  rcconcileable  to  these  two  great 
events,  and  v/cre  thi*  the  piop,ertime  and  jjlace,  it  could 
be  satisfactoiily  evinced,  that  the  more  geology  is  investi- 
gated, the  more  it  coidirms  the  trrsth  of  the  JMosaic  history. 

THE   EBBING  AM)   FLOWING  WELL, 

reckoned  among  the  curiosities  of  I)erb3'shire,  hiy  near 
tiie  road,  and  i  stonjM>  ',  lialf  an  hoiu',  to  see  it.  When  I 
first  alightrd,  it  was  boiling  violently  with  iuuch  nuiso  ; 
within  one  minute  it  began  to  subside,  and,  at  the  end  of 
twelve  minutes,  it  had  fallen  four  or  five  inches^  ai-d  was 
perfectly  quiet,  with  a  smooth  surface. 


At  tlii^  in '.Mil  "It.  .1  ::tMiil(Mi:,.:i  on  i;.pi  «•  'm.k  k.  w  un  a  '^t  r- 
■.  ,Mi'.  \\  :!■-  1  iiitn-  ii\ .  ami.  (  In  ''kiiiL'  li---  !i"i-<  .  li'..kr,i  ,ii  iiiP 
V.  ifii  ,111  :iir  ()!   <  ni'ni-il\ .  aii.i  iiiiiiiii''  li   >\  li.tinr  tins  \^  ;!>  ih'*' 


(,1    '    ..Is     Im!i'\-\\ 


,ll!-\\  I 


ll,,it  I  1     liiAt.i    it  1(1  I), 


i-ii.  II.'  ili^aiuiinlr'l  a'n  rami  in  la'  .  .ai'l,  m  Iim-  r..ii!v(' 
(;i  l::ii"  iirniiiii'-.  ih'-  \\;,i  r  lii"/an  a^MJa  to  lioll.  .ind  li-c, 
aipl  \'  ;'s  M)oM  r-'j  cai'ii  liir  v.inii  lii-i'j!ii.  ,iiia  ill  '  <■  o- 
1'  :,<■!■  I  I  iiidiioa  u  ::i/Ii  I  had  al  lii -1  oliMa'Vil.  \\  lit  n  \r 
'    :t    ii.  ;'a'  wall  r    '.  i-  a_aiii    ^ah- ■.i;')'/.        '  Ir'  |i!ii    n  ai'  iiu 

I  lai-  Will  .iV''  nitivi  r.  niai  kat,lr  lu  il  I'lij-  and  rai';'.  \m  a - 
:.:■  ;■.  -''C  'i  a  -  iiad  jn  ••%  ailfd  !■  a-  a    la\   .  a"  iw  o. 

1  had    til-'   pi  a-'ii'f  of  tliis  'jiMik    iia,,">  I'oiiiji  Mi\   a'l'ai 
■  '">  iiii''  -.  ill  w  iiirii  d"«raiiri'  \\  i'  |i:,>-.  o'  tiaoiijii  [iii'  >to,n-  \  il- 

!'_i-(.l'<   iiaji  ■;  oil   linli.      'I  li''  coiiiil' \   oil  ilii>    lo.i  I    \v  a-- 
]ua''i!  [ik    '-■    r.'  I"  I'aaii  that  h\   win.  h    j   wnn   i,i  t   a>lliIoii. 
So.  11  ;i,r   r  j)  i^-iiij  t!ii~-  \  ilkrji   wo  ciiiif  lo  a  iiilL  \\  la  a  < 
('ii'ii    w    .  ■    III  lie  1 1  its    I  11    till'   Miiiiiiiit.  iiiid  a  I'aiial  k  adiiiL; 

-  d  :  \  (.  r  ai  liio  hoii.,!ii.  'Ik,-  limr  ..•-i  .s  i,.  |ni-> 
I  M'  ii  ■■ .  II,  li.i  t.  and  till'  i-.'.d.  >.\  hii  k  i^  iii'rrss:ii-\  lo|  kin  ii- 
in_  ;i  k:!i.  i|ui'  k  kiair.  i-  kroU'dii  !■.  lia  i,.,,i  ,.\  lii,-  k  II  oii 
iki      raaal.        1  c>  i  liri    liic    i     •■ii:in'j.'  \'.i,\    k.id     .i   \i  ia     ill- 

•  laoM,   r.  i:ili  I  V  ,iiicr.  |  ii.-j-,     ..•.:i^   ;i    ,'    ii''.'   ■    r.i.id     li^aa   l!a 

111  •  I  at-.  '  ai  !  k''  i  'I '.  1  I  ;  III'  r.ii'.  1  ,i;  I  Ih'  111  a,.  .|ii  Ml  I  ai  la  a. 
i^    :  ;.-■!'' I<i    ..I  I-  ilia:  1  ■.  at    lin'  s  ,;,,ai;t. 

I  -::■     \  ■    ^\     '  -I    1  ..  :  I  -.    ..  i  i    I'd    \'.  i !  i  I  '  j    ai  . .    kllii'.  \V  ,ts    ai  l-    i'   t  o  ,ii-- 

-  '  I  ,.  iii'l.  .a  ;!'  ■  s.ini:  i'aii'.  lo  dii'.v  II  ■  ,  i"'k  r  >'\\  >■', 
.    .;i..  ,;|..^:i  ':    k.  ,,,  ki-l    V,     ■  . 


1.. 


111! 


a  I  i 


:    ;   :  :,•    ,    .  :    .i  i  !  in-  iioi  a  i;,  i . 

mo  la  111.;.-,  ami  til.'  li  IP-  I  ai  i  ,i  k  .-t  ol  vi.  :\.  1  a.-  i-  ■ 
11  '  k  ill..  111. nil-  tia-  k.  a\  ii  r.  la-'v',  d.'  .-,  ;;  is,  and  ti,.-  kiia 
-•  s.   .iiiij  liiMs  i'ii-\  in..',i-  ii|i  aii'i  i'""  11   ''•  ■  k:  k  o'.!,  ■: 


J.42  A    JOUnXAL    OF    TEAVELS    IN 

ing  an  irnportant  service  without  any  other  aid  than  tht 
power  of  gravity. 

My  companion  proved  to  be  a  pheasant  man,  and  con- 
tributed not  a  little  to  the  pleasure  cf  my  ride.  Jle  dis- 
covered a  strong  disposition  to  know  something  ot'  my 
history,  and  T  was  disposed  to  gratify  a  kind  of  curiosity 
vvhicli  1  found  was  not  peculiar  to  INew-Engiand.  Nor 
had  [  any  reason  to  regret  that  I  had  not  adhered  to 
tiiHt  cautious  reserve,  vvliich  is  more  safe  than  amiable,  and 
which,  ahhijiigh  it  may  sometimes  secure  one  from  impo- 
sition, may  also  pre\ent  liim  Irom  forming  those  trar.sient 
intimacies  wliicli  contribjte  n(,t  a  little  to  the  enjoyment 
and  instruction  of  a  traveller.  I  fra'jkly  gave  my  c0!n])an- 
ion  all  the  infonnat't  n  which  lie  appe;:red  to  desive,  and 
in  return  he  gave  me  his  name  and  residence,  and  invited 
me  to  sliare  the  hospi'.ality  of  his  house  in  iSottingham- 
ihire,  when  1  shi-uld  visit  those  parts. 

lie  seemed  nmrh  astonisiied  that  au  American  should 
lake  so  much  pains  to  visit  cmiosities,  wliirh  he  had  ])ass- 
ed  In.  for  riiore  tiian  tlii. 'y  vcars,  wit'i«iut  f)nce  looking  at 
them,  ant!  now  wisely  (!et(  rmined  that  he  would  go  and  see 
ihci!). 

]\q  was  a  warm  friend  to  the  American  revolution,  and 
a  great  admirer  ol  Washington.*' 

Our  rorids  soon  parte^l,  we  shook  hands,  and  I  reach- 
ed liuxton  so(>u  after  nine  o"ch)ck  at  night. 

Tlii-;  ,^iMit!<"ni!n  Milinii-ed  Mr.  Jclfi-r-dri  also,  niid  coii-iiiifrci] 
iiis  la.-t  s|)C('rti  in  jKirticiilar  ;)s  an  a(!miral>lf  lliiii;f.  I  \<nyv  IVe- 
q'lt'iiliy  l;rarJ  tli'n  spoocli  liit;l.ly  cstollcil  >]),c(i  I  came  to  I'.ni:- 
laii'l.  It  J^c'iii'.  to  be  llif,  ccucral  iiiijirf  'ioii  lioi'f  that  Ytv  .IcTcr- 
fon  li;i-:  <:on!l,|{i"(i  uilii  iin!.-;iia>!ii-i.i\  .in.l  ii.ipariialily  in  his  trcai- 
iiici't  oft'or.  •■  li  iiaiiiMi-^.  ai!i!  !hi-  lvn:li,-h  arc  (:h:irin''(|  \\i|!|  t!ie  idea 
afii  slate  oi'tliiti'^-  u  !;•.•••■   "  (ax  i;-i'!iit*t="  ape  «o  rarelv  ■^cpn'' 


F.SiiI.  \M).  liOLLA>n  A.Nl)    m    •.!   ^N;;. 


\u.  Mil.— lu  xroN  TO  Li:i(  Ksn.ii. 

I.  I, -11    -  >iiu-:il  ir  \i.\' -"iiii'lni   1  -h'l  t~;  -    1.'  I.-.  -  .r-l. !:'■--<  ■;  ■  . 

i-,.-  I   ,'■,    ..!     Illi-   c.lllili)    -('   lll'-:l>  —  l.iu.   -!■  ,■--  l]"-\V|.l!ll     ill  !■ 
—  K:.    iii.i  111— •'ili_n'>'l'  il-r  lilllM'-  Ml  lii-  <..;rui 


V'/.7  il. —  I'l-Xt^.n  i-  :i  llr.il  Xll'.'  r.  v'r'i:it..|  m  li:.'  \.il- 
■  .  ,  ill  ill.'  .  ii.'-  nt'  I)(tIi\  -il  M'.  It  i^  ~  .ll-illn|.  !  ;i_\  l..;i_\ 
ilnl-    >Uli|    mnllllaill-.    ,11    ^'..IP'    'i|     \Uiu  ll    .Ml'    iliH'li'K.i.-    illl.i' 

|i  \\,,>^   I    I!m,ii  111   n!.,i;.,.i.   Ill  I    ii-  c.lr'iriit,  ,;    \\.ii,i! 
,  .1  _  ^  .11  '■  !/i'lir\  fil   111  :,:i\  !■  :h  ,-ii    Kiimw  'i    i,i  ihi'  I T  ini.niN. 

li    W  ,iN    nil.'   (il    liif  I'-^lil'  111  .  -    '  ■!     ^!:l■  V  .    i;ni  1-11   ol      .^(  1   I-.  lill- 

1  m_'  In  r  ImiL  iin ; 'i  i-"i;:ii'  ■  I   i:i   !  -m    I  -ini. 

I  In-  '  "iiiitr-,  !,i  w  ill'  !i  l.ii\i.  Mi  li-  -  ■-  'li-f.ii\  .mi  !i  ,i  ri  II , 
'  '■'  ,il  till'  \  ill'  \  >.  \\  iiirii  III .  \t'  ,|.iM  ;iiii|  Im  liililii!,  iii'l 
■_'  :.'  r..li\  li  i\>  :i  >n-<  .i.!i  111  wat'T  imi'ii":  i!  ..•i|'_!i  I'n  1.1. 
I  111'  riiiii.'Ii-  III  IT  i^  i;iiii\  .11, li  K  nil  ri-v|';i  iii^.  \i  I  riiiMnii  i  •. 
Mill- II  li  -i;  I.  .!  tu  I'll  ll.:illli  !iv  iii\;il  il-.  .imI  -'ill  iiiiip  i.if 
.iiii;  I-'  III!  ill  ii\  !  Ill'  11'  111!  H  \  ,1  !i.  1  1  , ,;  r .  .  Ill  i:!\  i  'I  \\  li.iM 
~  j  1 '  ■  1 1 1 1  1 1 . ' '  ^ ' .  1 1 1 1 1 1 1  r  ;  I T  1 1  i  I  •-  . ;  n .  i  ■  >  1 1 1 1  ■  i    u  ,  1 1 1  ■  ii  1 1  ;   1 1 ' .  i  -  i  > . 

I    "I    111'   il    .iiTi  ilillil.  "  i  l!  inil.  1 1   1'    1  hl'vi'   1    I      I  ).    \  1  I'l-illl  1     il  1> 

■  I  •  '  1 1  '  I  .1  1 1 1 ;  I J 1 1  i  1 1 1  ■  I  1 ;  I  1  1 1  >  I  1  1 1 1  III  - 1 . 1 : 1 1  .  1 1  !  >  ,1  \  M  \  1  \  - 
i'  ii-;\  !■  1  ;iii'_'i'  111  liiiii-.i'v  ;iii. '  -I  .  p^.  w  iih  ,i  '  I  .Mill  rnj.  I,  ii.i'l<^ 
,  !  |il  1  '/:!  i'\Ii'llil:il  .'  .'il'ill/  I  111'  Il  "I.I.  -II  .-  Ill  I"!  Ill  Ir.'I  I'ln' 
>'  li'ili',  \s  nil  !i  -U  i\'  V  till'  I  \  (■  III  ,1  II  ,i\  1  II'  I  \  I  I  \  Il  'II  ili|\  . 
wli'  ,1   '''  ■'■'  ii'Jiii      ti'  I'l   till'  111  I    iiii'.ii'ii    J  lull-.     Ill   llii'  rii's- 

;  !.ii  ii'ii    \v  Iiii  il    111    M.ri'i  Ml/    (  .111 

'1.  ".    Ill  '  L  ',■:       ■  '•!     I'lji  li';--,   111    'liii.   ,111'!  alliiit  liii'  ■' 


144  A  J0(  !{NAL  Or  TRAVELS  IN 

niand.  There  is  al.so  a  vast  uppendase  of  stables,  v/hich 
forms  another  crescent  scarce!}  less  maguiiiceut  tiian  the 
fust. 

The  water  Iiardly  deserves  to  be  ranked  aoionc  mineral 
springs,  because  its  impregnation  is  e.\treniel_y  weak.  A 
gallon  ol' it  does  not  contiiiii  more  than  litieen  j.';iains  (>i"sa- 
tine  matter,  most  of  \vi)icli  is  coaimou  limv  stoir  :  there 
Is  also  a  small  proportion  of  phi>tir  of  p;uis^  a^Ki  a  still 
siTi.illi  r  of  Luariiio  salt,  it  conviims  no  <^ast  ous  niatlcr,  t'X- 
cept  one  part  ia  sixty-four  ol' azot.  Its  s<did  coiitents  are 
(herefore  such  v,.-,  are  commonly  tbund  in  sprinj^  water,  and 
[  coahl  not  pei---cii-e  any  thing  peealiar  in  its  tasti\  \  et 
this  water  is  used  wiih  great  benefit  by  i'lvidlos.  especially 
by  rJK'um.itic,  dyspeptic,  and  nepli:ilic  j)atloius,  and  it  is 
probable  that  its  efhoacy  is  deiived  principally  from  tiie 
temjjcrature,  at  least  in  cases  of  external  apijlication  r,  for 
the  water  is  invariably  at  tlie  tem[ierature  of  81^^  or  oc'^', 
unci  as  there  is  a  coj)ious  sup()ly,  fme  baths  may  l)e  con- 
staiitly  hat!  at  lUi.xtoii.  They  aie  i)()th  [iiivate  and  ]Mib- 
lic  ;  some  dl  ihi'  latter  are  mn'iuificcat,  ;ind  suiricienlly 
larue  to  swim  in.  llie  ihixton  vvp.ters  can  liardiv  be  lie- 
noirjiniiteil  hot:  they  are  rather  tepid. 

Dr.  Saui;ders  ^Treatise  on  mineral  waters,  p.  J  1 1 .)  re- 
r.iarks  :  ''  ,\s  the  fempcratm-e  of  82"'  is  several  liearees 
below  that  of  the  human  l)odv.  there  is  a  sli'j,ht  shock  of 
cold  felt  on  th(;  first  immersion  into  this  bath,  but  this  la 
almost  imnii'diatoly  succfidcd  by  a  hiuldy  sottthiaii"  ;iiul 
pleaauable  iilow  over  the  whole  body,  which  per>viiis  of- 
f(  n  express  to  !)e,  asifthe  skin  was  anointed  with  vv;i;;;i 
c)-('am.  and  is  entiri'ly  the  effect  of  temperature  combined 
\vith  thai  ol' ^;im|)le  moistMre.'' 


t.  \V;I  AM».    !I"IT.  \M)     AM)    ^'  fil]\\i>. 


Hi  inlnriii"-  lis  .lUii  that  tln'  ti  iiii  r.':'.;.iii  r,,itli.  has  iviu 
K.ci'iif  'ji'iifric,  l)fii)^  iiv(,l;is  a  -cncia!  cxpii  ssj^n  i.ir  tf- 
;iii|  !ialh>. 

At  iiiiif  o'clock,  ill  lh<-  iMoiiiiiiLr,  I  I'l-siiinc  i  in\  s.  ,ii  in 
tli<- sl.iL'f.  ami  [)nicrri|..l  to  \sh!)nrii.  u  hi  if  oiir  p  iii\  illn- 
•  iL  <  >iir  loiiic.  I'lir  thi'lusl  tu  i  Ur  mihs,  hiy  lhi",;'jh  u 
coiiiiii\    as    (h'caiA    aii.i    harn  u    as    1    lia\f  cM-r  lnhtli. — 


r.li  .ik  st-rih' 


iii'-tiiiiti'  ol     \tiiiuri',  auii.  t\c<iiliir.'    a 


!•  \v  !•  ctiit  plaiit  iia'iis.  w  iiiiiiMi  a  Ir^  !■  <u-  a  -iiriih.  a;!i  imimI 

I-  Ciiiitilliialls  .  ^I   lll\    I'l'  ll.ivr    lijhs    v.  i|  r    lolU  .  aU'l   UHLill 

lil.ij.'llx     he    ih  llMiiiiiialt  >1    ninlllitailis.         'I  !;i_\     \\<lr     rMrll- 

si\il\  cov  (i-i<l  w  ilh  a  ilaik  hi  ou  ii  Pa  /■  .  \\  h;.  li  i.a\  i-  tli'ia 
.111  ;:  ji|H  ar.iiH  !•  as  ilt  -i 'lali ■  as  i;  tiii  \  had  Im  •  ii  su  j,t  !)\  ih^ 
hl.i-Is  oi  a  jHihir  u  iiilri'.  air  I  ai  iil  as  ilp.'.i^h  ih.  \  h.i.i    Ni  i  u 

- 1  ■ .  I  I  ■  1 1 1  I  i  i  I  \  !  h  t  •  h  '.  h  1 1 1 1 1  ]  '  n  i  h  1 M  \  t '  1 1 .  T'  a  I  j  1  i  - 1  :  J .  ! "  1  I  ■  W  c ' 
liachril       \shllolll,     ihr     s(  ,|;.'     wjn       c,  il  |  |    ■!,  Icl  \        NAils-il. 

\s  \\i-  Ills,  I'll, li'ii  iiil.i  ihi'  c!i.iriii:!i  :  \.i\r.  ihini;  h  wiiah 
;'.rv.  ;;,,.  ,i\,.|-  !),,■..■.  ,,a  ^^!l,,.,■  1.  nl.s  X^lil.aa  st,,  ;,:., 
w  <  \\'i<-  '.  lali;!'  il  Willi  a.i  I  xhil'iiam  n|  i\!,  i:-,\--  iiaa- 
i\')\\  -..  .1  aii  .ill  till'  I II -.11  It  \  .  \^  hirli  (leal   ,-  tiiaui-,.  'm  ■•  a  ■_  r  i^ ,. 

,1!  i  i-\ii1h  laia    ImT.' :■■,  <  .a:hl  !h  sI.,\v  . 

The  s,  1 1  lie  -I  .  li.  1  \  coiiiiiiii.-,!  t,i  I ).  I  li\  .  \\  hicii  i^  iha  i\  - 
ihn'i'  mill  s  Inan  laiMiai.  '1  la  |i>\\ii  \\,is  lull  ,.i  swlaa  r-. 
aiiil  ii"t    a  !i:  i|  cniiM  lir  |ir,,i  iiiiii    al   ihr  [Hiiilii'-lioii  -  s.       | 

-\as    iiHirjiif  .(liniii  Ih-ii    III   ahai;>!ii|i  tin-    I'ls'rja    \v  !■■  h   I 

IM    ;  riiti   i;   lilli  II    oj    |i   IIMIIllllJ    tlnir    a    iia\      nr    \\\".    .:;,.!     I!;,- 

aii  .ii  ill  !\    jirnci  i',i-il  111  ihr  st,i_  ,■  inr  |  .,  in  Mia  . 

I  )•  1  !i\  Is  ,1  haci.|s,i:ii..  alihi.a:.  h  !M  a  lit  tow  i:.  c  i!i:a  iiii  :■_■ 
a"  I'  I'll  ihini-.imi  iiih.iliiiaiils.  It  js  <  ,  h  In  ao  .1  Inr  ;> 
\l'  aH\r  sil!^  lailh. 

•  o  I  .  I .  I   ; 


146  A    JOUR.VAI.    Oh    TRAvKLS    jys" 

The  Scotch  rebels  in  IY45  made  no  farther  progress 
south  than  this  phice.  Tlie  celebrated  Dr.  Darwin  resi- 
ded here. 

Our  route  to  Leicester  was  through  a  most  enchanting 
country.  The  distance  from  Derby  is  twenty-eight  miles, 
and  the  scenery  in  every  part  of  the  way  was  beautiful  in 
(he  extreme.  The  surface  was  generally  level,  adorned 
with  frequent  groves,  neat  hedge  rows,  and  verdure  so 
deep  and  rich,  that  it  resembled  rather  green  velvet  than 
grass.  The  fruit  trees  were  in  many  instances  in  blossom, 
and  gave  an  air  of  gaiety  to  the  villages  and  towns  through 
wliich  we  passed.  Among  the  chief  of  these  were  Lough- 
borough and  JMount  Soriel. 

Leicestershire  is  a  county  of  great  agricultural  wealth, 
and  celebrated  for  an  excellent  breed  of  shee|) ;  they  are 
not  of  the  largest  species,  but  very  fat,  with  abundant 
ileeccs  of  line  wool. 

LEICKSTER. 

Mai/  18. — 1  rose  at  6  o'clocJc  this  morning,  and  having 
some  little  time  to  spare,  before  the  setting  out  of  the 
coach,  I  employed  a  part  of  it  in  walkinir  aronnd  the 
streets  of  Leicester.  I  cannot,  however,  pretend,  from 
such  very  limited  observations,  to  give  an  account  of  the 
town.  Most  of  those  streets  through  which  I  jiassed, 
Avere  narrow,  but  there  was  a  tolerai)U'  number  of  good 
buildings.  I  regret  that  I  had  not  time  to  see  the  remains 
of  an  ancient  and  very  extensive  castle,  formerly  l)e!i)nging 
lo  the  great  Duke  of  Lancaster,  and  it  w(jukl  have  given 
ine  still  greater  pleasure  to  !i;'.vi'  vi.-ited  Bosworth  Fields, 
ueariiiis  town,  where  }i)u  will  rr'mcmber  that  Henry  \  JT. 
(lion    Lyrl  of  Kiclunond.  gained  tiie   crown  of  Lnaland.. 


fNf.l.ANU,     ll<>l.!.AM)      \M)       ■•ll    \M> 


, 111  1 1  Ui«li  ir.i  III.  lust  1 1  Willi  1;,-  lii.'.     I  11'  I,-  .111'  1'  w  ( Afi.r- 

III  I -ll.ll-ll  Ili-t'U  \  .  W  li!.-ll  rx.  It,.  ,1  ijli'l"'  '■•!;>  I  .il  iilli'ffvt  : 
Uk'  s'.,il^r  u  ;is  a  Kiip_r, !.,':!.  —  lii,  illararlrl-.  <■!  liir  n  inih.lt- 
.iiils  Wi-ir  sjilt'inii.l. —  ,  1  t'l.i!  (i[  Ivicl:,!!',!.  <-jirci  iii\,  was 
Mil  I'liiiiili'ii  witii  <i  k.i:.ii  i>i  .ttruciuiis  aiul   >.iiii:niii,ir\  :ji<-;it- 

11'  >s.         llrvplrs.     tile     ■_<!lill>ul"     >ll,lkrv[irarf    llllS     ,ul(|.'l     a 

fax' iiialii 111  to  lli<-  -iilij''!'!.  \Ui!<'li  iiiak'-s  US  iiiiauiiH;  that  \>  »■ 
lisli'll  tu  tllf  Ll  n.i'.i-  \S  nil  il  ui-t,il  lied  tlif  >Iiiliiiit  IS  i.l'tlir 
li>\a!  iiiiiri!i  111.  i.ii  ill.-    iiijiii    h.iiirc  tin-  lal.il  iiM.icsi.  ai:tl 

r,T'i-i  s    ;|s  III    li'    ;!    iiiiii    cxc  lailll.  .iIlihNt     llir    dill   i<\    li.itll'-. 

lll\  kill'J'luin  I'll-  a  l:ll;■•^l■  '  \l!<r  niifll'-  lir-ll  1 1<  I  iulltfi  i 
w  il'i  ,1  1 11 11-  iii~ini  :i  li  (li  ,ima.  Ill  pM.-iii,  In-  is  a!v.  a\  s  |irniii- 
t'l  111(11  ,  'iM  111  li,.  iarls  as  tin-  |Hi'  I.  ami  iiut  as  tl:<'  liistmi- 
.111  lia-  M-latid  il,i-iii.  Willi  lias  iint  siihsiitntii I  tlir  ['ara- 
fiis.-  whii'ii  Ml!;. HI  lias  ],aii!lii|,  iasliaij  nl  llir  sHuii'j  lait 
iiii  uiajiliii'  -!•.'■;!  li  I'l  lli.  s,  i  j|i|i|i ,  s  ;  and  wlm  liiasn.it 
ci  iiii  i-i\  1-  oi  |J'>i;a.rd  as  >;Mlvc^]icai  !■  and  uul  as  I  luiiir  lia.s 
di  a  \ui   I  (ill  I  .- 

1.1  111  -1 11  (  iiiil.ii.is  aii'i'it  -i\li  111  lliuMsaiid  ildialiit  lilts  ; 
i;  SI  II, ;>  ivi.,,  nil  ailiiis  t.i  Tarli, Hill  1,1.  and  is  tin-  cajiital  nl 
l.ii.-i  St.  ,.!,:r,  .       Ca.iiiiid     W  ii1m_\     dud    Im  !.■.    and    In  i-' 

Hall  II. i     ill.     Wasiiiiiiid.  \t      ill.'     l|.-j:iMlillL'     n!    till      l,i>l 

I-.  :.Iai\  iiisiiiiiiM  wis(iM\.;I.d  iniM  a  trmi  di  !.  .r  In.: -.  s 
In  iliiiik  niit  1)1.  ami  u  Is  a'  ti:  ili\  n-.  d  Imlliat  [iri[.""  '.' 
a  l)ii!iiii'diiiiisf  ill  til's  ti^iw  |i. 


141  A    JOVRNAt    OF    TBAVEL8    IN 


No.  IX.— LEICESTER  TO  BIRMIXGHAM. 

Ride  to  Coventry — LatJIes  and  hand-boxes — Coventry  election — 
Crowd — Confusion — ut.ioar — Drunkenness — Ludici-ous  scene 
— Violence  of  English  elections — Stage  coach  conversations, 

P.IDE  TO  COVENTRY. 

At  7  o'clock,  A.M.  I  stepjK'd  into  the  coach  for  Bir- 
mingham. It  was  a  small  vehicle,  capable  of  carrying 
four  passengers  inside  with  convenience,  and  six  with  diffi- 
culty. Although  I  had  a  priority  of  claim,  I  found  five 
ladies  already  seated  in  the  coach,  and  some  of  them  were 
such  beauties  as  Addison  says  are  estimated  at  Haarlem 
by  weight.  Four  of  them  carried  huge  [)and-hoxes  in 
tlieir  laps,  and  the  fifth  an  mfaut.  Tn  so  small  a  carriage, 
and  under  such  circumstances,  you  cannot  but  suppose 
that  an  additional  one  must  iiave  occ;;>ioned  some  incon- 
venience. J  uas  oblfg'd  to  sit  sidev.ise,  witii  one  arm 
out  of  the  coach,  and  (  fiund  mv  companions  so  little 
disposed  for  conversation,  and  the  situation  so  uucomtur- 
table,  that,  before  we  had  travelled  a  mile,  1  relinquished 
my  seat  in  r:i\"0';r  oi'  the  Indii's,  and  monatcd  tiio  roof  of 
she  coach. 

Tliree  cir  f.,\\r  mile^  iiom  Leii-ostr-r  v. e  passcil  i](is- 
»\orlh  i'ields  ;it  *-ome  dist:itire:  the  coachiiian  pointed 
tiit'm  c,\i*  to  ?ni\  Wc  jKisst-.!  t!a'(i!!!;!i  Xuncaloi!.  a  coii- 
sidcraijle  tov.!(,  and  as  we  approaclifd  Coventry,  thfi 
coimtty  !)!  (  anv^  luxuriantly  beautiful.  Vv'c  .saw  frt.'<[ueni 
coal  uiitif  '•.  and  wiiile  tlicy  rhanc:ed  horses  we  loolvcd  at 
the  mouth  oi' on;\  Tiie  access  v.as  down  a  pit.  j)recise]y 
TfKC  ;i  wcl'.  ouiv  nmch  wider;  tiirouLdi  this   openinir  tlie 


I\..I.\M>,    UmI.I.AVI)    and    MdTI.AM). 


■i^l 


mul  is  ilrauii  up  bv  inraii-;  ot  iiiaciiiiK  r\ ,  aii'i  tin'  pcoplr 
aii'l  iiii[iU'iut'iit>  art'  let  tlnwu. 

(•()\  r.N  IKS   i.i,i:ciif)v 

\\  li'Mi  u»'  aiiiMd  at  (  UN  riitiA .  uc  loiiiid  till'  >tr<  tl 
Ir.niiu'j  til  tin-  inn  ulna-c  wr  \<,<i,  to  diui',  so  (ihslruclid 
b\  iTowils  dl' picijilr.  that  we  uiTf  CMinpflliil  to  stop  the 
Ciiarl,  at  a  ron^idi  rahlc  tiisiann'  Imiii  tlif  liousr,  and  to 
make  our  \\.i\  a>  wi-ll  as  Uf  couM,  with  no  small  incon- 
\  I  ii!i  i;,r,  ami  >u\\\r  lia/aiil  ol  1)1  in_;  pn  N>ril  nioif  than 
\\a^  piili'ills  ,i^it  <aiili'.  'I'lif  Ljic,iti-i  <io\\.l  w  ■>  iiiinir- 
(lialiK  Ik  Imc  our  liooi.  auil  \\r  liaiau'il  llial  it  \\a>  occa- 
siou'-il  li\  a  (■onti'«!iil  1  lirihin.  at  that  nanuiiit  licM.  lor  a 
niiiulii  1' ol' I'arliaini'iii  lor  ('o\t  litis.  I  liail  licant  niiii  ii 
ci  Kii'^lisli  rlictioiiN.  aihl  tliiiiiL:lit  iii\>fir  \i  lA  loituuati'  iu 
lia'.iiii:  an    opjHU  lunilv   to  Mr    ili.    Iiusilr   ni  xncji  an    orca- 

^inU.        I''ll    I    am  ijililr   sa!|v|i,ii    uitll    <inr   I  xliiliilinll   dl     ihr 

kiikL  Hi'i  ilo  1  vsi-li  (All  |o  lit  Imlil  anoilnr.  I'or.  la  \ii 
111  lull'  liiil  I  w  ii  la  ~-  --uili  a  ^1 '■nr  III  ill  (mki'imcNs.  muoai 
and  rmt.  'I'lir  ■.■i  iiius  ol  M'linjal  oi'  ol  II  uiiili:  as  .iloiK' 
mi,!'!  ron\  I  \  to  \  on  an  ailrijiiali'  nli  a  ol  a  «-lati'  ol  tliiir:-, 
i!i    \shii  ii  \sas   mo-i  loirilils    i  \liiliiliii    llic  ma|cst_s   ol    llio 

-o\  1  I  1  i_ll    p'  opir  I   Xni'.sinv   llio  lijlll  ol    l/llfii<lss:  il  -ulli  J".-. 

Tia'  ran.miaii  -  \\f\<  :\  '»Ir.  Mill>  ol  (  o\  mtiA  and  a  \\\\ 
I'.ii  \  i.r  laaiMoi!.  Til'  li:.  nd-o!  \I  r.  1' u  r_v  alli  d^ri  i  1  :ial 
>lr.    ^Iills  u  I-     ;     la  ad  l.i  tin    nrli  :— tiial    In-    was  ni    I.i- 

NiHli  '.i  .  aalo^lirj  till'  I  omilhUl  land,  wllli  ll  \\oi|M  ilMUlc 
ti;i'  p^'oi'  ;  alio  :ii  ^iaiit.  dial  !io  was  an  aii^toriat.  and  did 
<  ■'{  1  ai  ('  lor  ill.  p'-opir.  Ill  :a\  Hill  ol  ^Il .  I'ai  r\  !iit\  ^a. id 
il!  cl    Ik     u  as  llir  p.  ,ip!i  "-    ^•,^  /,-/. 

1 1  ^11  111  -  1 1  III  I  111-  \  1  o  1^  a  I  I  aijli^li  1  111  t  loiis  do  not  in  i  >  — 
>.'i!\   i'^:''    ■Il 'il'' si;.,t  ;    mans    l)\r  in  n  mom  i,,\\ 'is.  and 


150  A  JOURNAL  OF  TRAVELS  Ift 

wlien  the  period  of  the  election  arrives  they  are  transport- 
ed to  tlie  plaee  by  the  candidates  whose  cause  they  espouse, 
and  are  maintained  by  them  free  of  expense  during  the 
contest,  which  frequently  lasts  two  or  tiiree  weeks.  It  h 
stated,  in  extenuation  of  this  practice,  that  some  of  the 
electors,  and  especially  mechanics  and  labourers,  cannot 
afford  to  leave  their  homes  and  pursuits,  to  travel  to  a 
distant  county,  and  remain  at  their  own  charge  during  a 
contested  election,  and  that  therefoi'e  it  is  but  reasonable 
that  the  candidates  should  sustain  this  expense.  However 
plausible  this  statement  may  appear,  it  is  certain  that  it  is 
only  an  apology  for  an  indirect  species  of  bribery,  not  less 
effectual  than  the  direct  giving  of  money.  For,  under  the 
pretence  of  maintaining  th  jir  voters,  the  candidates  buy 
them  with  wine,  whiskey  and  dinners,  for  he  is  always  the 
best  patriot  who  gives  the  people  the  most  good  things. 

In  this  instance  the  adherents  of  the  two  rival  candidates 
were  distinguished  by  papers  on  their  hats,  having  the 
names  of  the  men  whom  they  supported  written  upon 
thein.  The  poll  was  held  in  a  building,  which  appeared 
to  be  the  market,  and  the  respective  parties  were  striving 
each  to  prevent  the  other  from  getting  u{)  to  the  poll  to 
give  in  their  votes.  For  this  purpose  they  did  not  hesitate 
to  use  every  degree  of  violence  short  of  blows.  The  con- 
test was  princi[)ally  in  pushing;  the  two  contendinsr  par- 
ties were  arrayed  in  op])osition,  like  two  armies,  and  when 
they  came  up  to  the  poll,  the  two  fronts  met,  and  in  every 
instance  a  violent  contest  ensued  ;  hands  to  hands,  face  to 
face,  shoulder  to  shoulder,  and  when  one  ])arty  gave  way, 
the  other  would  press  tumultuously  on.  till  all  fell  in  a  pro- 
miscuous Iieaj).  l^iien  the  victorious  Jiarty,  risinji  iVom 
ftfftheir  fallen  antagonists,  would  shout,  vociferati>ig  Ijuz- 


K\..i  \\i>.  iioi.i.wn   AMI   M.iTi wn. 


I.'l 


i>.  lliniwi;!'  till  ir  liats  iiitn  tlic  air.  iunl  iii;il^iii'_  it  liiiL' 
uilli  MilU'  MilU  .'  or  I'.irrs  .'  I'.iiiv  !  acriuiliir.:  as  one 
iir  till'  oilur  juivaili'd.  in  tlir--r  ctintr^ts.  \v|ii(  li  niijHMrcd 
til  ii''.  ill  till'  main,  rather  •^i<n,\  naliirfil.  iiiili\  iiliiaN  c  ra- 
sii>nill\  kiiidji'd  iiiti.  raLTf.  and  IjIimkIv  iiost*.,  and  lorn 
rnats  and  sliirts  wfif  n-nalK  tin-  in!isc(|iirn('('.  I  sas*-  onr 
man  who  Iiad  h)>t  tii--  coat  and  liall  his  shirt,  and  his  hlccd- 
iiiL'  liark  and  taci'  wryr  niarki'd  uith  th<'  lahuis  oi'  soinr 
ri\al  \(>ti'r.  Mtliou'jli  it  was  a  1  inniiiahh'  pici  ne  ol  hn- 
nian  iiainrr.  on.-  .onld  not  hut  considi-r  it  as  a  url!  acKii 
laici',  and  notw  itlisiandin'_r  the  icjiri  uhirh  onr  cihK-atcd 
a  rt'pnhliran  would  U<-\  at  ihc  '.'ros^  ahusr  (j|'  tin'  hi'dicsl 
rrjiuhhcan  ini\  ih  ■_■<•.  it  u  as  inipos^iM,.  i,,  liclp  hin'.diiii  _■  al 
.so  iu(hrrous  scini'.  'I'ln-  rnoh  wry,-  all  inonarrlis.  lor  ihcy 
wrn-  ••  al!  nois\  and  all  drunk."'  'I  hr  ihi'rnaic  \  irt.irs-, 
in  till'  int>-r\  als  ol'  ilir  com  > -sis.  suuj  a  kind  of  choruv.  with 
loud  acclamations,  ir-tmn-  'ji'siurcs.  and  cou\  nlsi\  c  cxju'-'s- 
sions  oi'  |o\  in  ihrir  icatmcs,  'Ih''  hotil.'  wiiit  inciiiiv 
roinid.  o\  I'r  tlii'  In  ads  o|  tut-  j lo jiu la cr.  and  ;l  \\  is  annisiu'^ 
fUoULdi  to  sec  the  aildrcss  nscd  to  ijit  il  to  ih'  nioiiih. — 
The  crowd  was  s(.  'jrc  it.  and  '.in  h  the  caji-nicvs  lo  sci/c 
th'  lioidc.  that  il  was  consianlU  held  up,  at  aiiiTs  l.'ii.  th. 
aho\  e  the  head,  and  thus  ii  nio\  ed  on  in  the  an  .  one  man 
x\  !-eviiii._f  it  1101,1  another,  and  soiueimn's  hall  a  do/.eti 
haiid^  had  hold  o|  il  at  mice.  \l  leii'jih  sonic  one  iiioio 
res.ilute  than  Ins  mcrhhoius.  or  h-ss  drunk  than  ihes. 
wiMild  •;ras|.  the  lio'.ile.  and  \\  In  11.  with  much  elioi  t.  it  had 
ycijMiied  a  deiei mniale  dir.i  iioii  to\\,ii.is  a  parlicnlai 
till  oat .  so  'J  I  eit  u  Is  the  I  u  slim  '  and  -  ho  \  m  j.  th.it  tiie  \\\U- 
nmuilied    e\|ieiia:ii    would    somiiiiues   make    seveiid    nn- 

s'lCee^l   ll     atlemlils     to   ci,^^;    his  l,!),    niHMI    ihe    no//!e.   uiu' 


152  A   JOURNAL    OP   TKAVELS    fN 

in  the  mean  time,  the  liquor  wouhl  be  running  iu  stream;: 
into  his  face  and  bosom. 

Even  the  softer  sex  seem  to  be  inspired  with  the  mad- 
ness of  the  occasion.  Tliey  were  to  be  seen  standing  on 
heads  of  barrels,  on  the  street-railings,  and  wherever  else 
they  could  hnd  situations  a  little  more  elevated  and  secure 
than  the  ground  ;  and  occasionally  they  mixed  with  the 
crowd,  joined  in  the  strife  and  acclamations,  and  encour- 
aged their  husbands,  brothers,  and  lovers  by  reproaches 
and  praises,  frowns  and  applauses,  according  as  the  parties 
whose  cause  they  favoured  were  victorious  or  defeated. 

The  parties  were  very  neaily  eqwal  in  numbers,  the  con- 
test had  already  continued  several  days,  and  it  was  thought 
it  would  cost  Mr.  Pairy  of 20,000.  lie  was  present  and 
was  pointed  out  to  me,  standing  among  the  crowd.  I 
know  not  whether  this  election  is  to  be  regarded  as  a  fair 
sample  of  similar  thiugs  in  Lngland,  but  I  recollect  to  have 
heard  a  gentleman  say,  at  L!veri)ool,  that  these  contests 
sometimes  end  in  blood  ;  that  he  had  seen  them,  on  some 
occasions,  un})avea  wiiole  street,  when  every  window  and 
lamp  would  Hy  to  pieces.  Such  violence  of  course  endan- 
gers life,  and  if  no  fatal  consequences  ensue,  it  is  not  be- 
cause they  might  not  have  been  expected. 

They  inforn)ed  me  at  Coventry  tliat  Mr.  Parry  was 
supported  by  a  powerful  money  interest,  and  might  there- 
fore prevail,  but  that  Mr.  Mills  was  universally  preferred 
by  the  more  considerate  and  substantial  part  of  the  com- 
munity.* 

At  3  o'clock  we  proceeded  through  a  country  less  fertile 
than  that  which  we  liati  passed  in  the  morning  ;  the  villagr 

^  I  urulprslood,  after  my  ar"iv.)il  in  London,  tliat  Mr.  Mills  gain- 


tNwl.  \NI),    HOLLAND     ANO    M()TL\M..  i. 

wl  -Mtriilf'n  ciinif  in  our  wav,  lii:l  iii>  town  nf  ;in\  iitipor- 
taiii  r  oft  lined  l)tliir«-  «r  n  a<  lud  r>iiiiii;i'4La  i;,  whirli  we 
ilui  at  hall  [)Asi  :>  t)'(:lo(k,  I*.  M. 

SI  \(.K   COACH   «(IN\  J:K-^\  llONS. 

A  >taL'»'  (uacli  is  a  plati'  u  iicir  all  aif.  lor  tlif  time 
lifiiil,'.  ••(|ii;il.  aii'l  tlifici.'H'  » At'ry  ime  irrls  at  lil)<'rl\  tn  in- 
i1(i!j:i'  iii,-  own  parlii'iilai-  liuiiioiir,  ^incf  llx'  law  ^  ul'  tl\is 
iiMO>-  i>|  ira\  tlliiiL'  iiiiiiovc  no  ntlicr  it'str.iiiits  th-iii  llin^r 
oi  .'<  la  i.il  ri\  iil;_\ .  My  ^llo^t  i'\[H'iit  iicc  tjius  t,ir,  « AJiihits 
l.iij.i^ii  niaiiii'M>  a-  btiii^'  in  this  r''^jir(i  \iv\  similar  to 
ih"^''  III  (,'11  i-(iO;itr_\ .  TIk'  I  .ii'jli-li  -taL"'-  <''iacli  i^  Iioucv- 
<  T  nincli  |i,  It'  r  aMa;.!'  ■!  to  cniiv  i'i>aiioii  tli.iii  lh>'  iiiiMi;\t  u- 
ii'Di  \i'!nii<  -  i:;  '.\l.ir!i  uo  lia\>'l.  la  tlio  Iwinur  liic  |i:!>- 
-1  ii'j'!  N  all' a  >  -  ^iI.  ;ai::r„'  at  !  ;.-t  a  |m:  1  ul  llnlr  i  >  'H'j'  ^i- 
ioiis.     f  11  t'l'-  !  i:;^'  r.Mrli.  i!ii-  .Io.m  i,  Liliinl.  a  I  id  I  w   '  ■  i  ..;-, 

lar  ini  larli  -ilr.  i\ti-|i.i  aliMlJ  till-  \\ImI"-  Ii-I!jtll  I'l  IllO 
iiM'  ll.  -II  l';  M  rl;f  ri':i!ji,ill\  i<  di\idi'd  illin  Iwn  [illlns 
w  h'l  !i  ii.ik  I  oh  I  it  111  i  111  ill-'  la.i'.  Ill  till'  I'liirr  inai  Ins 
till  If  arc.  imao  'jiii'ia!l\.  iwn^-at^  ai  raivji  ;l  likrtliuM^ 
•it'  a  pi  i\  ,itf  riiarh  and  ii;I'  iidi  d  tn  arri  iiiiiiH 'date  ■-i\  [i.  r- 
>iin-..  (  (era- a  mail;,  lliiii;  i  ■-  an  iiio  riii.  .  ii.io-  si.ii.  \s 
w  t'  \v  1  II'  I  id  111  J  .  a  I  a  jar  111  (III  I  aiii'j  litmi  I  Jir_li.  I  In  |ii  \  r.  a  ad 
ija---i:rj  !i\  a  (••iiiais  >•  at.  a  'jriii  !i-!iia:i  in  tlif  -la. a.  ii'- 
la  II  kid  1.1  III'' :  ••  I  li.  la-  -ir.  i-  tin'  -.at  .ill..'i.;  I'.  I.  ii- 
iiiiH. wli'i  \\,i-  li.-i'ali  111  d  ii\  <  ii'i:.  r.niLiiMa'  In  r.oiv 
l;iiiiii'  till-  lU'w  -  lint  i!"i/  ri  III  !•<  un'ild  n-a  iniimt  liini  \o 
•  .Ma|aii  \ii'ii  ii'Mi'iN."'  I  ill'  •_'  !i;Ii'ai  01  \\a'-  rniii'Ct. — 
!  .10  d  !'.  ti  i-li  on  w  .IN  .K'inalh  --nt  i  'ii  tin-  -I'l  \  ii  i-.  an.|  al- 
dii  iirjli  till    I  I'lii  11  k  \\  a--  mail.'  w  illi  an  ri-.-nnnd  ,iir  ul  plia-.- 

oili  \  .  ii  u,i-  I  ili\  am-K  niti'i  I'd  w  r  II  -uini'tliiii.'  mtv.  iiiui  Ii 
l.d.i'  rliaji  in.    In  !•  'J.  liii'-  ■.,'  nil    in  oi.  a  niim  ■  a  a  'iIj'  ra!  \i\"- 


154  A   JOCRXAL    OF    TRAVELS    IN 

fession,  that  of  the  law,  discovered,  during  the  day,  no  small 
disposition  to  sneer  at  America.  INumerous  enquiries  were 
made  on  th.e  part  of  my  com])anions,  who  appeared  not 
less  solicitous  to  be  informed  conccrninfr  my  country  tiuui 
I  was  conceruincf  theirs.  An  intelligent  and  modest  qua- 
ker,  discovered  much  curiosity  on  the  subject  of  Ameri- 
can manners  and  institutions,  which  led  me  to  explain  theni 
to  him  at  some  length,  and  he  seemed  delighted  that  a 
transatlantic  country  should  so  much  resemble  England  ; 
he  aj)peared  never  to  have  formed  any  very  correct  ideas 
of  the  state  of  society  in  America,  having  doubtless  con- 
cluded, with  too  many  of  his  countrymen,  that  as  we  arc 
young,  we  must  be  ijfnorant,  and,  as  we  arc  a  great  way 
from  England,  we  must  be  barbarous.  In  this  worthy 
man,  1  found  however  much  candour,  which  made  him 
treat  me  with  kindness  and  confidence,  while  his  own  in- 
telligence enabled  him  to  impart,  valuable  information  con- 
cerning the  country  through  which  we  were  passing.  He 
was  a  citizen  of  Manchester,  and  we  found  that  we  had 
both  been  present  at  Mr.  Dalton's  lecture,  on  Monday 
evening,  a  circumstance  which  excited  some  little  interest, 
and  alforded  conversatlun.  The  gentleman  of  the  law 
listened  to  me  with  an  air  of  incredulity  anil  contem[)tu- 
ous  irony,  which  was  manifested  by  occasional  remarks, 
inuendoes  and  (juestions.  I'articularly,  he  enquired 
what  was  the  ireneral  price  of  LTOod  land  in  America  rented 
for  twenty  one  years,  and  I  replied  that  rents  were  scarce- 
ly known  in  my  country,  and  therefore  it  was  not  easy  to 
answer  his  (juestion,  since  most  of  those  who  cultivated  the 
soil  owned  it  hi  fee.  simple,  for  which  reason  the  subordi- 
nate; estates  v.hich  were  so  common  in  England,  such  as 
1-ifo  estates,  and  e>«t;itf's  for  terms  of  vear^  and  at  will,  rare.- 


1- N-;i.A Nil.  (ior.i.ANri  am)  >."'ni  ■v>i< 


1 


i\  f'Xisti'ii  with  I1-.  TIlC  |i('ii|ili'  \M-IC  ill  L'"  II'  1  'il  til"  lil.l'-llill- 
di-llt  til   lir    iiiiiin   tlif    iH'crsNiiv  III'  lioliliiij  i.iinl   "ii    ilin-c 

tcrill^.         'l'\i]<     illl'iirilKllinll     he     ,I|i|»iM!  cl     In   CiMi-hl'T   ;|N   ;il 

om  !■  inn<''li!i!t'.  ami  a  n'lliTtinii  mi  I'.iiulaii'l.  \t  iliiin.-r. 
till'  i-.iiivfr^aliiiii  \\a^  cuiitiiiaril  uiih  iljc  sanir  uiiiinlili' 
iiiaiiiii'i'.    till  I  clirckril    ii  1)\   ii'iii  irkiiii  til  him  in   answer 

til   iMlc   lit'    his    (|il''Ntiii||N.   thai    I    lhii|l_'!lt    it      illlitr     ll-rlr-v   ti» 

,'itiiiii|it  til  iiiipart  am  iiiliiriiiaiinii  In  hiin  ciMiriTiiiiiLr 
Aliniii  a,  I  ^|ii'i'iall\  il'  ihr  l.itli  1'  cnlllltlA  Wen*  rr|  H  rvriurd 
a^  Hi  an\  n  -jiiTt  I  rpial  I"  I  .njaiiil.  ami  imich  inni  r.  il^ii- 
ji'  iH'i'.  Iiir.  ill  viicii  iM'-i'  thi'  naii'.iiiiai  \va->  con-iilci-ril  as 
nl'  i'ii'ir>f  im'ii''liiili'.  ami  iinihinL'  h  >s  than  an  >"ili  "jiiiin  mi 
ih'-  iMir  i'iiiiiiii\ .  ami  a  v.itin'  mi  tin'  Mtln  i-.  w.miM  an-.\viT 
ihi  |iin]iii^r.  I  I'l'  ihi-  tiiiii  till'  riii«\  I  iN,ii|.  Ill  \\,is  iiiiii'- 
iiijiiiil  li\  that  imiili- i^aiM  s:|i'iirr  whirii  u^iialK  -~miii.lv 
thi'  lii'vt  iiiiiiralii  ai^  I'l  nIliMiia'.  till  winr  i'_'alii  ii  1  imiI  mii 
Icaiiiii's  lain  a  --iiiili  .  iii'i  vmiMiihi  il  ii\i  r  thi'  i-p.  iiln  ^  !•! 
ti.i'  aniiiii'iil.       li;    till'    jii.ijrivv    1,1    \\\,-   al'iriiiHiii  iinwiAii- 

thlv    'Jrlllh   Ml   III    I'l'-Mlllril      lllv      ;nl  liiir    vir.lill.    Illll    III  llll.;      Ill) 

iI;-  j  in  v|i  1,111  im  iiiiiii!  ji'  it,  1  a^'si  il  III  in  \v  la  i  In  r  In-  w  a^  imt 
(vtMiiivln-il  !>  v,-.-  ;iii  \imiiiMa.  arlim!'',  w.ilViirj  lani, 
liki'  I  ir  hiuiii  11,  aiM  whrlhia  la'  wa-  ii.a  vin|iiivi'i|  that 
iii\  h  liiii-  ami  lii't  \\<\r  mil  lliihiil  la  rii\iai'il  uiih  hair, 
ami  iii\  t' I. 's  a  III  I  liinji  r>  ai  iiii  i!  \\  ilii  lalmiv  i  ,i  rl,i\\  -.  I 
(♦viHiMi  a  In  I'la  n.|  haii.  hut  ]>•■  av-u  mil  iiaa  h  iinai-  jan- 
jH  il  t\  nl'  111  uim  1  -.  ami  ia  tla'  i  a  I  lii'ha\  i  •!  vn  ilh  il^  liiMrv 
,111.1   im  ■  '■  -'  \  . 

\  I  1  ,         :■:  -  r    II    I  .1  HI  -Il  J-.     h-'    V.  Ill     I   -1  I  \. lilt     In     iii\  if 

!ji.'  In  ill-  r.  ■■;ii  :    miji  ii'il  ,i   Imwl  nl'    w.iiiii  |iiiiirh.  aial  -n- 

liiiiil    la.'  In    pm  :.!  l-,i' :    ui'    Ihi  ana'    -m  i  i|  :   rn,i\  la -a;  inti 

il.iv.  nl.  ,i!!.|   In    nw  m  i|  tint    u  lifii  I    -a  a  I    I    \\   is  iml   .m     I  ai- 

!,     iiiiaii.  Ii"  \\  i~  -'iriai'j'-i!,  in  1  \i.  ia  ii  J  aa^wi    .li  i:n.  in  ■'■,:'. 


156  A    JOCKNAL    OP    TRAVKL3    IN 

successive  remarks  :  "  if  you  arc  not  an  Englishman  then 
you  are  a  Scotchman :  and,  if  not  a  Scotchman  certainly  an 
Irishman,"  his  surprise  was  incrtased  to  astonishment,  for 
it  seemed  never  to  have  occurred  to  him  that  one  born  out 
of  the  British  Isles  could  possibly  be  so  much  assimilated  to 
a  native  in  speech  and  deportment.  Incredulity  is  often 
founded  on  i<rriorance,  and  no  whf  re  is  it  manifested  with 
more  strength  than  in  the  ui-nd  preference  given  to  one's 
ov,  •-!  country,  without  a  knowledge  and  proper  estimation  of 
the  claims  of  other  countries.  In  the  lower  orders  of  so- 
ciety, whom  inressant  labour  precludes  from  information, 
we  more  naturally  expect  and  more  easily  pardon  a  degree 
of  ignorance  and  consequent  prejudice  which  disgraces  a 
gentleman,  and  especially  a  man  of  letters. 

We  were  about  to  pursue  different  wa}  s  in  the  morn- 
ing, aiid,  on  ])arting,  my  companion  made  me  acquainted 
with  his  name  and  place  of  residence,  which  was  in  Lan- 
cashire, and  invited  me  to  visit  him.  lie  bore  tin*  name 
of  a  distinguished  author,*  (long  since  dead)  and  inf^imed 
me  that  he  was  of  the  same  family. 

In  the  course  of  this  daj'^s  ride,  1  was  directly  interro- 
gated concerning  jny  name  and  personal  history.  This 
kind  of  curiosity  is  probably  common  to  every  country, 
except  in  those  places  where  nuich  familiarity  with  stran- 
gers has  p.ro(hiced  an  ecjual  indifference  to  all.  A  man 
might  live  fifty  years  in  a  in'tat  city  and  no  on.'  would 
enquire  v,ho  he  was,  but  lie  C(<uld  not  reside  t]iret>  weeks 
in  a  village  without  being  interrogated  as  to  liis  private 
history,  and  criiirised  on  every  topic  from  liis  reliLnon  to 
his  du'ss.     ,:lt''oi;gh  this   cuiifjsity   is  in   some  measure 

-■  Oi)c  of  the  iijo.^t  cclcbraletl  cu  the  Ki);;!!:.!!  Es'iui,-!';, 


;'!ipiTriip  III.  il  is  ir;il!>,    li,ii:i:'i  --.    iiiid  mi.  ii;  to  !.f  tr-  .ittil 
^^    ill   -•'<!. \   iMtiiif  ami  HI'   I-!  _i  iii'r. 

\,    11  i:irKl.'\  .;,.■.  t;i!.|i:  ill   !,,],, 11    ^    '    : '  >   l' p  ■   im,  ■  lit  ,i  1   i  :■  - 
,     1 1;  111!  Ill    111    tllf    I'lll!  !^!l    .11  .M  \  ,     ti  'iM,    a    •  .     ,1    w  ,|M    i:'i     111    :  iir 

I-'-.!.    .!i:.i   I   1;,.  i  1 '  .    ;■!.   >•:;.     •  i'  iii-  <■  :;-i-'n;    i  i  i" .  :•  ,ii'  ;- 

II.         I  !'■    Im-    Mi.t    I,  ;    ;r|ii  •!    i';    ■!!!    ill.      \\'r-l    lii   Hi  >.    W  '.i   ;. 

i    11  p;  'i.  •  II  ^t  ill. 'Ill  'I  SI  A  I'll  _\  I   ■.-.  ,up|  w  .1  •  i.  M,    l.i'i.  \  .;._ 

.    ■    I     ..1  i,     T.  ,    :.  .il      I    -.         .  '    .    \|1.  i.iii    I.:      lllii;-    ("    '    I  !:.   I  r. 

i  '  :•    !:i\     iP;  IP   .1    1    ,1      i!p'      -, 

•  ',i.i...--l.  •!  s  .IS   VI  \    _i    '.].!.     .1)1  !   ill.  ■;    '.•::!    ■   '        '  .1  r:;i- 
'  i";i-    t'iiV;n'\.   .'viiw    aipi    i  .r\  p:  ri.'iii  i  . '  .     ■>  i    > 

■   ,    lip.l    1  ,.' :   M    •  •'■.    ( -'P.    i.i  ''li-  \^ 

i  ;-■  .        I  !,'■  I'.iii-i  IP..  iH'p  iiiiisi 


•     p.i   ill.   I    r 
\ '  1 . .   I . 


:  I.. I'  w   p.,!.    a 
'  \ .  t '  I    i  1 1  \  p   , 


I  , 


laS  A    JOURNAL    OF    TRAVELS    IX 

his  belief,  that  on  the  accession  of  the  Prince  of  Wales, 
the  Duke  of  York  must  retire  in  favour  of  the  Earl  of 
Moira. 


No.  X.— BIRMIXGIIAiVl  TO  L0XJ30X. 

BirmiMgham — Watt  and  Holton — Dr.  Priestly — Kiue  lo  ONford — 
Stratford  on  Avon — Caution  in  descending  lii'.!-; — \Vtujdstoulc — 
Oxford — Costume  of  the  academies — Grandeur  ;uu]  beauty  of 
die  town — Ride  (o  London — Henley — B;>aii*y  or  t!ie  country — 
\  beggar — Approach  to  the  metropolis — K'i'i'pi'ici — Hounslow 
heath — Arrival  in  London. 

BIRMIXGHA^I. 

The  environs  of  this  to\vn,  \\hi<'i  -iauJs  on  a  side  hill, 
are  very  beautiful.  As  we  njipruachcd,  we  discovered  it 
to  be  a  great  city,  api)arei:ilN  c  ([ual  in  extent  to  Xew-York 
or  Philadelphia.  Its  ]>ujH'.!:ir'on  is  about  73,000.  Tlie 
lower  town,  which  is  the  oh;  part,  is  crowdi^d  and  (hrty  : 
it  is  filled  with  vv'ork-shops  a:ul  waie-!iouses.  Indeed, 
had  we  not  known  that  we  Iiad  arrived  in  a  trrent  nianu- 
facturincf  town  tlie  i'act  would  have  been  siifncieiuly  ;tii- 
nounced,  by  the  disa;ri'eeable  funtes  and  mixed  ehluvia 
which  loaded  the  air  as  we  drove  into  the  thicket  of  houses, 
and  by  the  fuliginous  tinge  which  ev(>ry  tliina  iiad  acquir- 
ed. You  will  doubtless  think  it  strange  that  I  have  se(;n 
ahno'^t  nothing  of  tlie  manufactures  of  Dirminghani,  cele- 
brated as  it  is  all  over  the  world  for  its  curicus  produc- 
tions, especially  tliose  formed  from  the  various  metals. 
The  hi)/iilv  characteristic  desi,i;natioii  of  JMr.  Bur]^c  's  not 


t.M.l    \M).     H.i;.l.\M»     AM)     .-(.'ri    '.Ml. 


!■''.' 


I.  s-  tlllr  l'..Ul  II  1^  I'InI.  I..;-  !>iri.;illL'il.llil  ;>.  H'^t  III!  I.  I_\  Ili»' 
t(A-v!i,r,  ..|  r;,ii  ,  jif.  il  1^  :ii:i!  i^i  ill''  l(.\  -^.'i.i'ji  iiTiIk-  \\  ,,!  li!. 
It  ;.  i),  -H.'-s  1.1  rc!::;i;d  \  :i  ll:  a  il  is  in  l!i'-  t..''V  !1  \h.'\ 
\\  ,,;t  ;ii!,I  l'.'il;>  U  i  .i\i  .  !■•%  M'  il's  ,;  llh'  s!,  Mil  (  I  ■::!,  ,  :\- 
»-ii  ;i  I'li-iliiv  ;.;m1  i'\;ii  (inioii  in  in.iiinl'r  t'lniu  n'.:-ti\'. 
V'.liiili  \v::s  !ti;,ill\  ni;!^;h  i\'.  ii  lull  .i  c.  I  ii;hl  lii>\s-\'i'  im 
iin|n  .  (.i'  -i'(  ill-;  ilii  '.:  (  vt,;!ij|vliiii>  I, I.  ;is  liny  li'  ';•,  ;i'!iii:I- 
i.ii.i-f  t"  i'!.  u:;!:'  Ml  (ii-iiiic-liiiii.  li  i>  v.i'i,!  liiai  iji,.  !)i,l,f 
1  I  Ni'i.'i'.iv  l.!li'!\  i;i  I'.-  I  ;!'  iiiK  \  ipMu  l.i'ii.i'in.  I'n  [mi- 
|i.'M'  ;,i  -!■■  i!.'  -  '  w  .  iks.  Lit  u;i<  ill  i;ii'  I  ;i.ii!,(tt,iiii'''.  ll 
W  .;v    liiMV  .  \  .  !     ,il\    ll'  IM    l<i    ii.l\  f    -I:ii<l   ,il     I'.!  I  !  ili  ir.  1 1  i  M    s(  \  r- 

1    I  .;.".  s.    Ill  :  M!(    ;i'i-i  ii;i''  -.    \^  liii'li  ll  is    iuui''''i'^-  n- ,     I. 

Mr;',;:"!!  ii'ii',  I'  ii'li'i'-ii  il  i.i(iis;ii'ns:i!ilr'  ilitt  |  -iin  i'.,!  j,],, 

•  '  ■ '!    iiuiin ':i.,ii  1\    lo    i,"i;iliiii.      I'luiii  |i.t-i 'ii^il   u'i>'i\.i- 

i'  ■:!.  I  iviiiiu   I'n  i.'l'iri'  in 'ihiii'j  ni"i''  "I  I'mi:!!'!    Ii.im  l'.  i:' 

'.  ii:it  '-iMiM  !"•  !•  .;-|;,  ,i  111  -  IIM-W  ImI  I.-s  I'liiii  ;  AM  ll"i;,-. 
\S  il!'   II    W  I'l  r   ^M   ■;!    l.I  i;ii-i^     i'!\    ill    U  ;  1 1  k  i  1 1 '/    a  1 1.  H  1 1   I !  r  '  st  it  i  I  ^ 

111  ll!  .•ii'i  I'  III  >  i|  ill'-  I  i\\  11  (■'  Mil:,  li'.s  iiiaii\  ll'  \\  Stl  1  I  ;^. 
I  a  u  111'  ll  ill'-  !ii:'l'li"  '-  .Ml  ii'_ :;:  :r  iiihi  li:ini '-' 'iiu'.  In  lli- 
\  ll  mil;.  i>r  ilir  (  ;l_\  .  llii\  i  i,ii;t<  ,!  nni  i,i  nn-  liir  i  i;lii>  n!'  .i 
<.iiiiill\  -I  ll.  (l'-Ili.\i  i  !.\  l':.-  iiii.'p  wi.irli  Iriiiil  Di. 
!':i.-ll;.'-     il'i'l-r.        S  I'  i:    \  .1       :  i|:m.i    ;~     i !  i  ~  J  1    irt  !  i,l     to    ll- 

I'  '  .  :i::;i  ;i:'.>  It  11  ;i  ■-:t  ,'11  ^     :  ,''!i  nii    Ilii  ;iiiii_  ', mih. 

\  ii'i  li  :i.  Iiiiiii.,  .■!  -;  ■   1    i'i,,i(  !i   ;::-!  -ill  ill .  I'-i  ;,ii-  (  >\ 
:  M'i.    I   ;""',    i,r    V     ,r  i.)  [I,  ,(.    ai  s.-m  n  c",  !,,,  U  u;  i:;.     cV'  - 


i    ■'■      1         ..'     \\  :is    11  il  ..    .l';,)    l,.i  |i   nil   .,;  .     1.1,1    ,.  'ill     Hi    'i>    liill. 

:!:•  I  I  i'  'I ',     h.-ii  1'. .     Win'''    I  ■III     ll  lii  i'.\  -1 1  a  \  rlii'i  s.    ill 

llll'lli  J       W  l.'i'M       \\  1    ,  I         MM    1  ,il        I.    ill, ill    V.  VS  I   1  i 

II  •  11'  ll'  ll    li'v    .1    1  I   !  !    i    ,i:i.         1 1    \i  ;is   ,1    SI  I !  1,1  r  I    nl     M  I  i"lls     |  i  - 
;"  f   lil.i;    I    \\  :i-  r..Mi|  ,  I,,  .1   i,,  ..,,  ;  ;.i , .. ;_  ii  .iip,    |,;;it  .  (    I    i:_- 


<    I    lia-  '  I    ,1.1;  \     lli;-'  :;.  I:    \vl,;:|i    I   :!, 


100  A    .TOfRNAL    OP    TRAVELS    IX 

passed,  without  spoiiip;  il,  (  shall  bay  iittle  more  tlian  that 
we  supped  in  the  town  of  Stratfoic!  on  Avon,  memorable 
as  having-  been  tiie  biri);  ijluce  of  S/iakspeare.  They 
pointed  out  tlie  ch'^ter  of  houses,  in  one  of  whicli  he  was 
i)Oi'ii.  h  was  jiiidiH;.dit  wii'Mi  we  arriv^xl  in  tiie  town  : 
except  at  tiie  inn,  tiie  Inludjitants  wore  all  asleep,  and 
therefore  i  conld  not  visit  S'lakspeare's  monument,  whieli 
is  stili  standina;  in  the  chtu'ch. 

We  jnissed  through  mae.y  towns  and  \illai':es,  and  over 
a  conn.tr}'  in  sonne  places  very  hill}".  Tliey  took  ihe  wise 
])rec;iu.tion  of  ehaiuin-;  a  wlieel*  at  the  lop  of  every  sleep 
hill,  a  practice  vvliich  is  common  in  Enphmd,  and  which 
is  re:ui!-red  doubly  iiccessary  by  the  'jreat  weight  of  peo- 
^)le  and  lu2','ra;re  which  an  r:n,dish  sta<:'e  coach  carries  on 
its  I'oof.  1  have  beoii  oiic  of  a  purty  of  eighteen,  twelve 
of  whom  w(.'re  on  the  lop. 

3Iui/  19. — The  day  had  dawned  when  we  drove  into 
Woodstock,  and,  through  the  grey  of  the  morning,  we 
glanced  at  the  magnificent  palace  of  the  great  Duke  of 
jMarlfjorouc'li,  erected  for  hh-A  by  the  nation,  to  commem- 
orate: the  nuxst  sj)]endid  of  his  victories,  and  distinguished 
bv  the  ti'iumjih^ut  appellation  of  lih  nhciia  PcJace. 

\Xi'  f(;el  slreiu.ly  the  vanity  of  military  glory,  when  we 
i-oncinbcr  tiiat  this  co'eat  man  now  lies  as  low  as  the  thou- 
sands who  died  on  the  fields  (if  Bleiiliciiii  ! 

"  Our  mclli(i(1  oi'  sociii'iiiu  llii.'  \'>  hie!  i-  ;!ii=.  an  ii'Oii  -iiof.  ^^Iiapcii 
like  ;!  'iiiiii^h,  li;'nt  lo  >nil  (lio  curve  of  lln^  wiii'ii;  iuul  ju-^t  large 
Ciioii  Ji  lo  I'frcivc  its  rim,  i~  atlaclind  to  a  cliaiii,  aiul  lliis  i-  made 
last  to  till'  hiial  iiart  o/'  llic  iVaaie  work  oi'liie  carriai;o.  AS'hcii  it 
is  desired  to  -top  tlu;  molioii  of  a  wlictd,  lliis  iron  is  sini])!;,-  ilrop-- 
|)cd  on  tiic  i^.-oiind  lirddiid  ihs'  wlifiid  ;  (lie  piolioii  soon  drags  the 
ii'Ofi  shi.c  nMil'i'  •\\f  wiK'fd,  a;id  the  lallrr  ridos  in  il  widio'jt  ^mIi 
ii'r'iiir;  I  111-  \vii!'.'i  i  ^  in  iin"." 


v\';i.\Nn,  II.  1.1,  WD  AM)  scMi  \n;). 


!M 


.\'iii)>IiMii.  ill  his  tiiiii.  uill  i'mIIdu  i!iunc  uhoin  \\.-  ^\,\\ 
.it  .Mari'iiL:ii  ami  l.dili.  a:iii  liiv  (■"tir-i',  Hkf  itif  |;itli  uta 
iiwri  (ir.  luiniiioiis  for  a  xUiilc.  u  ill  liA<-  on  tin  i  \  r.  am!  nl- 
tu:i,il(  Iv   Ih'  uljNtaiifil  li\   iIh^  nhli^ivin  «a  ;r.'i  -. 

CKliMil  is  si\l  v-ilii '•!•  iiiiliN  iiuiM  l'iiiiii:i'jli.im.  \\  »■  ai- 
n\<-(l  ill  llii'  I'diiiiiT  Inwii  a  liltli'  alti  |-  Inar  i.'iU'ck  in  tli'- 
ainrmii;.   ami  I  loiin.!  a  (■■■inl'niia!)!.'  Iir.l  at  the  Auj'l  in:'.. 

()\r<)Ki) 

'I;,'  -.nil  I'aasiv  winc'i  pifs  rii'n  1 1  iiir  Iimih  k  ;nai;:nu; 
I  i!  I'a  ;,i;ir_ua;,i,  Uiil  i.  i;.ii  i-  n:\  -;a\  in  <>\i.  i,i 
.^. '  ^ii  ,  ;,  1:.  ii  I  -lull  li'is  i|.;  winl  In.'  1.  a-"na!;!r  (xi-  riailiais 
\<,\:.  1;  \.ia  \^iii  Idiji  i<\  nc.  i\  in,:  inl"!  nialii  ai  runi  .  iinn_ 
I!.  I  li.iwi  \  >a-  I  r>_ii  I  till'  lari'nin-!  ini't'  iIh  |i  -s.  Ii'-ran-i  I 
li  '.\  :■  II  in  Mcu  to  \  i-it  (  )\I.imI  a'. uin.    w  In  ii  I  iiiii  ni":*'  a' 


I  ;ir  !a:'.jn>'  .n'  iiaMlllmj  inrunjli  tin'  ni.i.i  ji-\:nl',i 
'■■■'•■  1 :  -  nL'  in  MMvi ,:,  !  i-  lin'  ni":  niiiL'  ^i  i  •,  ,;  r  :  !iai .  in  i  a'' 
...[la  n'l'iii,  I  \s  <  ai  ;.  i  I  in'  rlnncli  nl  Si.  ^l.l|■\  .  a.i  .ia<  a  ail 
< .  a'lii-  slun  ini'-.  Im  I.iiiLin'j  t"  (^H'  lai'-  <   ciS  la  ■ 

'I  iir  i)!'m-ia->  .iial  -tn'liai;^  ..f  liil>  (\iK-l"-  a'i'  i;'''  i.  a.  >' 
.'. '  a  a  i  lli>'  1)(  -!  ■<  I  iiaai  u  lii'li  I  i.a'.  .  in  a  >;  in  I '  a  !  iii'l. 
I  ^a|i|iw>i-  I  111-  'ji  ail'  a),ia  win  i."  li\  i  i  >  a  it  w  a^  !  i;  i'l  ■;>  - 
-  I  '  ;  I  In  1 1!.  i_  \  .  1  1 1 X  (iiN((iai  M'  \v  a-.  ,a  -i  a.i  i  an  .:(.'<  a: '  i  t . 
ar .  in  ^iv  |i'  la, a.!  .  .  j;>a-  ;ncnn.;s.  aa.i  <■]•  ■_  ani. 

I'll-'  lal'a-.  1  -  aa.l  ^l  a!'  a!-  a'l  u.ar  a  1m,  m'  h'  .  '  <'v.  n 
■  .  ■  I   I'p  ir  i!:"-   .  'Ai.a  ii    i^  liai    liui  ,a'  nia.  ,'  i  >  ntli  an  n.  -  - 

I  li>-     i'  i!     Ik  .">>■    ti.''     ,a,",i  in    1.   .  i:     il    '  • 
lai-.  (   'ji  '.^  li'-tltnt''  •  i  a  I  ,i!\  la    i,,  i 

;  ■  ■       .,t.-.!  •  ^       :'     .       •.  h'  .  ^.  ■  • 


lG-2  A  JOv:nNAL  OF  travels  i.\ 

der,  of  any  kind,  either  for  ornamciU  oi  use,  and  tinis  the 
face  and  ejcs  are  roni|)let('iy  exposed  to  the  weather. — 
On  tJie  very  pinua'de  of  the  cap  ii  fixed  a  scjiiare  l)oard, 
covered  also  witli  bhick  ;  it  looks  as  a  thin  book  would 
do,  if  laid  on  the  crown  of  the  head.  From  the  middle  of 
this,  a  tassel  falls  over  on  one  side  of  the  head.  Tliis  is 
tisnally  black,  but,  in  the  case  of  noblemen,  it  is  of  jiold, 
and  th.ere  arc  other  variations  in  the  singular  costume 
which  {  have  described,  intouled  to  desigiiato  acad(,"inic 
as  well  as  civil  rank.  ITie  eii'ect  of  the  wiiole  is  some- 
what ludicrous.  ;it  the  same  time  that  it  is  arave  and  evni 
solemn.  \\  iici!  the  ntfinhers  of  the  nnivei'sity  aie  out  of 
Oxford,  they  ihro'.v  ofthisaarb,  and  appear  like  oilier 
men. 

\l    the  inn   Wiie;-';   I  lo('.;cd,    !    accideiiiMlly   !;;<■!   /'•ir, 

O — .      WV   iind    h.-cn   at    Vile    Coilo-e  t(^^'i]ier, 

>{i:\)i-  yi-;v:'s  ai;i>.  and  o.-  Im;  ';•  of  :;s,  I  believe,  wonki  'lave 
iho!urh;  oi' ;■;!•'  ■nrcM'-o;  at  (>\i';*id.  \v  e  of  course  bccaine 
n^sociiiles:  ibr  iv  ',vas  au  i^il-ae-iin:';  d'-covery  to  lind  an 
ojd  ai-qnab!;;^n(x;  vdu're  oiio  s^jinosed  liimsolf  surrounded 
oa!_>  i)',   -'raii":';'-;.  aeo  \.  e  ar:>-eed  to  travel  ir   London  to- 

'i\i\-.-t's  e\-'!i:':-.;  we  (;:■'';',  i:i  p'l'';  ihe  circuit  of  Ox- 
ioi-'i  ae'i  i's  <•:!'■  hxi-;;,  .;iKi  \ie\i.ed  lb.'  <\i,'rlor  of  mixt  ol 
!:i''  :;'-a;>'ni;;'  iiiiihi'i;;:-.  .ovi  the  iii'.'i-iM  of  ;-')me.  The 
!i.;';M';-'>s  ;u !'  ;,"f'ari:Hi ■.  i.i  id;'  iitriv  oi  a  !i  .i!.>w  square:  the 
!;;!•:;:  ;;"'  >;i;i't'  iiu-jns  ■'■  (^  ail  s^hi^■:l  !>  c, Piiuioiil \  vcrdaut 
r;'!  '  •  .   rai;:il. 

iii.in'  y>i  [\v  c'',!;:el-  \\i  -ava  c^^i^uis  oroduclion  of 
Hit.  \\  u : '^  liio  pi.iie'-  oi  a  ■icn^.  '■■■,v:<\v  l/v  Irai  iiiii' the 
ii';;'~  '.1  ■■:  •■•■•a-d  uiih  a  1k»1  po'aa'.  We  v.  ere  iiifoi'med 
dii.t  one  wl  fJic  i*H;i\;>.  bv  aaiUoiii":  Jibasclf  ^^  Itb  bui'uinu:  -^ 


\  SI).     H'll   I    \\I)      VM) 


i'     '  :  ■  (   Willi    I  lll^  111-  II  iiul'  IH.    V'i  ;iiiil:ill\    ])  i^-i  .|  ;    .   ,   ".  i   ,11  ■il.,.' 

'I'll    il'  !mi   iIi.M.N.   iiU'i  iilliin  i!i  i\   .ii'ij'iii'       ■  '    I, HP  li  -l^nl. 

-  I'l  !■  .i\'    iiii-  lihini!'!!'  Ill  "I   ii;>  -^illjiilii    i.i    :■    ..    ]:::.  |  in:,i  ; 

:    I  ^  '1  i    110  iii.-ai!-.  .i    ip-i.-iil   hi  .  :     ,.i'.i  ■     I..'.'  .-I,'!     t. 

<  >\|.i|  li  i>  a  |ii,irc  nf  Li'Mf  _  i.,h  !'  Ill'  ,i!i'i  li''  ml  V  .  it  1  - 
M I '  I . ;  I '  ■  I  III  1 1 1 1  ■  1 1 !  1  !  >  I  I .  i  ;  I  r  ■  "  1 1 : !  I  ,  \  : ,  11-  \  ( •  1  ■  I  1 1  ■ '  i  >  ■.  •  :  V 
!!■  li    iiii  !  hi  villi. i;;I.       li^lii.i;>    .iii.'i"    i.ib  ;  >■■   !  ii  mi    <,•    t!|. 

I  h:l;ll'■^  .Mill  (    iiiiu  1  il .  ;iil.|   lijf   r  l  i\  >  r-.  ..;;  I   1  1:  ■  1  .tii:ii^  ;:i.' 


i"  H'.i   :.\      1  i\  .  1   w  .ill.-,  .ml  i'i>\'.  ~  '  if  ;i;r 


il\  .   :iii-l 


.1  i.iiii'-  I,ii  >;  l:i.  -<•  111-  ^1.  |.  ::.,■  i.^:-.  111  ;:i.-  ;..a:..  Iii.il 
II  liiiiMiii.^  il<  li'!'  II  n\  (  I  -l|  I'i'  i\M  •!  !i'.  ill'  III.  :; II  i  .':',"  .11 
-  il  ill  :i  i"i"i  -:,       '1  'm'  \'.  '1  ■:■'  i  I",  li  ii  1^  .1,1  li'i'  i\  ;'!•    !  .i;i-   ni' 

.  i_  Mill' ■••nrr     i:|,i    'il  :,r;!\  .         \m   '.'  |.  c    <   n  -  r    i  .n  | .!  1  ^-.-i  i     11 1'- 


I 
il    ^irii   :r<'lii;..v  I  'i   .;  ';ilil  .I'ii  'II     1:1  1   ;i  ,v  1 

-   ui:!h.ill   .1    |..il.il!rl   i.i  ll;.-   v.,,!!,l.        1, 

.1,,   i    .ill  -v     '.111'  ^    III'    11. 1. ill;  ■    I    I','.  .:  -. 

.    ".    Ill    il'  .'II'-    - 

,'I    i„.-.i"..   ~    liir    |.,ii,-   .,.1!    m:,iI    '.    ■ 

.'ii-iii.r  iiiii,  .:ii'_  >.  1:1  :i  ^1  \  !•■  11;  111. 
'    i  \  liii  1  iM'    '  i\   -ir  'I  :  ..1  11  is-  1  '■    ■  ■ 

«.  .  1  \    1 1 ! '  ■  ■  i  1  1 1 '  :    '  1 ; ' ■  II I    i   '  I \    I  ' .      .    ' 


II  •  >  hill 


,  \  I  I  ■ .  1  -.      w    . .  I  ,  1 


104  A    JOURNAL    OF    TRAVELS    IN 

er  at  right  angles,  and  the  high  street  is  considered  as  one 
of  the  finest  in  Europe.  It  is  terminated  by  a  beautiful 
bridge.  The  circumference  of  Oxford  is  said  to  be  three 
miles,  and  its  form  circular.  My  travelling  book  says  that 
there  are  thirteen  |)arish  churches,  but  1  did  not  see  them 
all.  The  number  of  colleges  and  other  similar  institutions 
is  tweiity-five.  They  informed  me  that  the  number  of 
students  in  the  imiversity  was  about  one  thousand  two  hun- 
dred, and  that  Christ  Church  college  lias  more  tlian  any 
other.  There  is  a  fashion  in  these  things,  and  the  nobility 
and  men  of  fortune  are  found  principally  at  '''iirist  Ciiurch. 

]Mrt>/   20. — At  seven    o'clock    in    t!.-,'    morning,   Mr. 

1) and  I  proceeded  on  the  roof  of  the  coach  for 

London.  We  passed  tlroufrli  ^ever;t!  iuCDnsiderallo  pla- 
ces— Xunchani,  Sliillingford,  Bensiiigton,  Neltlebed,  and 
Bix,  and  stop[)ed  to  change  horses  at  Htiucy,  a  considera- 
ble town  on  the  banks  of  ti;o  Thasi-es.  The  country 
from  Oxford  to  this  place  did  not  appear  to  be  naturally 
very  fertile,  but  it  is  hii'hly  cultivated,  and  presents  much 
picturesr[ue  scenery  of  hills  and  dales,  rivrs  and  extensive 
tracts  of  wood.  We  were  surprised  at  seeing  so  nuich 
wood  in  so  old  a  country.  It  appeared  liowever  to  be 
principally  of  modern  planting.  Beds  of  chalk  were  very 
common  along  the  road  ;  tliere  is  much  flint  imbedded  in 
it,  in  fantastic  nodules  : — with  the  latter  they  repair  the 
roads — it  is  broken  into  small  pieces,  for  this  purpose,  and 
covered  with  gravel. 

At  Ilenlcy  we  crossed  tb.e  Thames.  The  country  is 
iiere  extremely  beautiful — the  banks  of  the  rivf-r  were 
iiighlv  verdant ; — a  dense  wood,  belonging  to  a  country 
seat  of  Lord  Malmsbury,  formed  a  fine  green  slope  on  tlie 
declivity  of  a  hill,  which  rose  gradually  from  tlie  river,  and 


T  \>    I    \M).    Il'l  I    \\1)      \\l)    -.■•11    \\i..  !!■.. 

^  1.  ;i  -  \\  I  !■■    I  iiliM-n.'ii  !>\  lir'   11  iti-  ■•!'  till-  r.:.;iiii"j  i!>'. 

i   i'!il  ■;  .iM  .  !>  Ill  s,iil'_'.  \\  Ilic'li   w  I-   II'    ,ri|  ;iitl.      ,.   I,   ^,^    .   ,.   ,,ji,| 
-'  '•  Kii  III.         I  ,S  >  r\    tlli;i'    Mli  I'll!   I    ilv    w    .  .    ;.riM  \  '■   1    ill      !;■• 

.'  \   "I  ^p!  ;;i    .  ail' I  .11  111-! ^I  I  !w    .■•i'"  '\  ui  'In-,-.    >  -     :    !  ■.  ■  i  - 
■  .  i;  \v  .V  f..,\  I,,  -••,■  til,. I  'I*!  ,  i.^i^Mii  ].,;,:,   :    ■  -   i    ■•  ■- 

I      '  'ii     li!  -'    m|    l:i-  .!■  1  ■  ':i',i!  ;..  i.  :i;-.  Mil   I  \, 

-|...v!\  :,-■.-■  :.'.i  ill.-  iii:i.  I  M:  ■■!  |m\.  i^- 1  ,\  .,  ':>■■[, 


!1   .1    Ir    r   ;;•■;!   r 
.    M  >i   .  -I.    III.   ^l!;l;:. 
ii.    I  .:•.    :i:i.-i-    ni    W 


ImII    i!  W  :.i  i- T.  .i:i.!  lii-  1,.  .'(ii;:;  ..ml 

1.  1  i'.P'    1  "V    i!    iin-.  nr     .        'Ml     ;r    i^    ;t    c 


li  i-:i.  ,111  i  I 

.1.    \\.'- 


l66  A   JOURNAL    OF   TRAVELS    IX 

luie  of  cultivation  an.l  of  habitations  ; — only  a  few  sheep 
are  to  be  seen,  here  and  there,  graz-ing  upon  it,  and,  but 
for  the  constant  travelling  and  the  absence  of  trees,  it 
might  be  taken  for  a  part  of  an  American  wild.  Yet  the 
whoh'  of  it  is  within  ten  miles  of  the  capital.  We  soon 
began  to  perceive  a  cloud  of  smoke  hanging  over  London, 
and  designating  its  situation.  We  arrived  at  Brentford,  a 
large  town,  seven  miles  from  London,  and  thence  the 
houses  formed  almost  a  continued  row,  so  that  one  might 
have  supposed  himself  riding  through  a  street  of  the  cit}', 
Hyde  Park,  with  its  extended  fields,  fine  lores!  trees. 
,aid  promiscuous  assemblage  of  pedestrians,  coaches  and 
horsemen,  soon  came  into  view  on  our  left ; — we  whirled 
rapidly  by  it,  and,  at  Hj'de  Park  corner,  abruptly  entered 
the  Metrojjolis  of  the  commercial  world.  We  drove 
through  Piccadilly,  and  were  instantly  involved  in  tiie 
noise  and  tumult  of  London.  We  were  obliged  to  hold 
fast  as  we  were  driven  furioush'  over  rough  pavements, 
while  the  clattering  of  the  wheels,  the  sounding  of  the 
coachman's  horn,  and  the  sharp  reverberations  of  his 
whip,  had  there  been  no  other  noises,  would  liave  ih'owii- 
ed  conversation,  and  left  us  to  admire  and  wonder  in  si- 
lence, atth'-'  splendour  of  the  English  capital.  I  had  lone 
!)cen  anticipatin;,^  tlie  emotions  which  I  should  experience 
on  entering  London.  Put  I  was  not  a  little  disappointed 
at  finding  myself  perfectly  unmoved,  and  was  disposed  to 
conclude  that  one  great  city  is  very  nuich  like  another, 
and  does  not  smklenly  impress  a  stranger  with  an  idea  of 
its  iu;igniiu(le,  since  only  a  sniali  portion  can  i)c  seen  at 
once.  AVe  were  driven  through  the  Strand,  Tenij)le  Pin. 
which  is  out'  of  tlie  aucicnt  gates  of  tlic  city,  and  Flee!- 
--treet.    Tliccoacl;  sjtjppeJ  at  tlie  Cell  Savage  on,  Lud'jatr 


hV'.iwi),   Hi'iit.wn    wo       (•>!  1  \    n.  I '7 

Hill.  'I'll""  .  o.iilini.m.  i>\'  a  ^IkiII  Imii,  i!ii.v.'  u^.  u)tli  as- 
tiini-liiirj  '^\vl^IlltsN.  tliriiUi;li  a  iiarnnv  (ijMiiiii._r_  uIkh'  ilip 
I.  ,f~l  ili'\  nitioii  \MMilii  liavf  iiviTtiirntil  tln'  rn.u  |i.  ami  \sc 
w  'If  M  I  il(]\\  II  ill  ;i  JafLif  back  \  (<rcl.  tiil!  n\  cwailit-i.  Ii(ii-,cs. 
<cy\  aiils.  aii(i  l>a''L'aL't'- 


No.  XL— LONDON. 

I  i;r     i;.  II     "-.ixn^i        llih— '^1.     I'iiul I.m:!,:')!!.: Mniiur    ol      ll\ 

111.:  -  1'  1  II  i!liuliiiii~r-    iilniii-t     iiiikiiMWii — i;\|ifii-c     mil    c.i;- 

\  liiii-iicr  '  •!  !i^!,in_- l.ninl'in    iiiti  ica!f —  i'.a!  Iiil:  I.imi-i 1,^ 

I'T I  lit'    !Ilnlllll!li-Ilt   III    I.uinlnii — Oi'tMlill.;  ol    till'    liV.N    i|'"   ', 

<  'ili-liKMlit"-  ull  llli'  (iCCll-inii. 

V^/V    JO. Ti)    |ia\r    ani\((l     tllllv  li;i|)j,i|\    in     I.nini.ip. 

ill' r  iiliin  vt  tvsii  iiiuiilliN  III  tia\  flliirj.  Ii_\  ^t-a  aini  I  iini, 
\v:i-  (I  iia;iil\  a  ^iiiiii-cl  iil'  |ii\  ,inil  LTatilin If.  Ii  \\  -  Iim 
(.'(lurk  1'.  M.  w  licii  \\p  Nil  |iji((l  ijou  11  li  mil  lli(  I  '.,icii.  .iiul 
!M(ik  loij.jiir.'s  iiir  ihc  ui-lii  at  (111'  /,'(// >'^/ /■(/-(  .  'I'll:-  was 
,1  |iii!ili(-ii(iii-f  a  ("ii'.tiiiA  ri'ji'.  ai:.!  La\''  (m>  .i^.<<:\  Un  (lie 
wit  ol'  \(l(liMiii  t(i  iiuoli'jyif  tlif  (liii\  aticii  1  I  its  iiaiiic. 
lie  iiil'iriiis  un  lliai  it  alliiilo  tu  a  T  rem  ii  --In;  •>  d'  a  si  rs 
b''autiliil  Wdiiiaii  lutiial  in  a  \v  iM' rii. --.■•.  la  iicc  the  lu- 
iiiaiict  ,  lanli  iijiiiii  ilii>  incident,  i-  ("Mi;:ic.'.  I j/  /'//A  Snu- 
rni;c.  'I  liis  \\as  [UtilialiK  ,il  lir^I  liic  -I'JI  (i|  ill''  lldilNC, 
lull  till'  .llii^idn  lias  liccii  so  Imiil;  tiir^nlliii  lii.il  cn'  n  llic 
(ii  til'  "jr.i|iii\  i--  cliaii'.'cil,  anil  \v  c  liml  il  no  Inn.  ci'  I  ai  lu  ll( 
S  .urt'i'i.  hii[  li:c   I'ti  II  .\(iv<i '  (. 

\ri(  |-  ilinaci  wcwcnl  into  St.  I'mil"-  ('hin.  li.  wIikIi 
nM>  wiiliiu    a  \i\\   iii'U  i>r  <inf  1  Mi'_iiij-.      )'  is   a  siiliiiin' 


(08  A   JOrn.N  \L    OF    TRAVELS    IN 

biiil(!iii<r,  atiii  v.  iini  I  iuokecl  'Jjj  tiiix)ii[;li  its  stu]>emlou^ 
dome,  I  saw  an  exiiiijirioii  of  arcliia'ctiiral  gtaiidear.  which 
[  had  never  witnes-ci!  Ixicie. 

I  shall  now,  my  dear  broth.er,  cease  for  some  months 
to  be  a  tra\eller,  and  sliall  become  a  settled  resident  in 
London.  Of  this  city  of  cities,  you  will  not  exjjoct  me  to 
attempt  any  thin^  like  a  remilar  and  full  account.  As 
volumes  woul,!  not  suffice  for  the  jjiu'pose,  it  would  be  ar- 
rof:ance  in  me  (o  suppose  that  a  residence  of  a  lew  nionilis 
can  qualify  iiie  fm-  the  task,  even  If  entirely  at  leisure  for 
obser\aiioii.  And  when  the  daily  calls  of  business,  with 
tii2a«:emen{s  of  ceremou}^  and  civility,  are  taken  into  the 
af'ce-nnt;  it  Vviil  l)eco)ne  nie  still  more  to  be  modest  in 
djawintr  u'eueral  con^'lusions  concerning  so  vast  a  city  as 
London.  I;>ut  it  may  perhaps  l)e  still  in  my  power  to  im- 
oart  some  luibrmation  whicli  will  be  interestine'  to  viu, 
since  one  cannot  well  mlstak*'  concerninsf  facts  passing 
dai'y  before  him,  a.id  needing  only  tlie  faithful  use  of  his 
senses.  Duilng  my  residence  in  Lond<ni,  1  shall  thei'tv 
fore  endeavour  to  give  such  notices  of  liie  objects  which 
occur  in  my  daily  walks,  as  shall  exhibil  to  \  (Hi  the  most 
stiikinu-  oiiilincs  of  the  picture,  altiiou^h  it  is  proliable 
that  1  shall  rarely  be  able  to  add  all  the  colouring  and 
shades  i;ecessary  t(j  fill  it  up  Ci.mpletely. 

]M{n/  21. — Not  L'e'ing  eneag<-'d  in  commercial  business, 
i  took  lod'riiigs  near  Cavendish  Square,  in  a  part  of  W'est- 
mlnster,  which  is  at  once  air\'.  clean,  and  (luiet.  'J'lie 
recomniendat;(/!i  of  a  friend  in  N(nv-Vork.  who  had  resid- 
e'!  hi  !i;e  >an.e  house,  gave  me  entire  confidence  in  the 
peojde.  and  a  letter  of  ie.troduction  Iroin  hiju  'for  !:c  had 
beT'.i  a  !ire;>f  favourite  there)  jirocurf-d  me  aJl  the  kindnes:- 
?!id  seduh.'Us  attention  which  i  could  lui\e  wished. 


K\'  .;    \  M>.     n    »!   i.  \  M>      \\:)    <:     I  1  I.  \  M>-  I  '  '.' 

I'm-  i:pi!i  I  i  '.\  u  !i'.!i  :ir  n  w  '!!!-'.;   i  ii.,  I'.-  i;-^  I'i;.  IiM' 

iil  I  ...  !  i.Mi  i  -  \  ,  r\  .  iii'l.'.  -  n  l'.  M  1)  ill  :!  V.  il  I-  I  j;  r,  ,.  I  -  i;l 
.i.|;      ;■      ,!     I    i\\  il-.        lie     'i   ■.!     I     .  _•    i  I     H    ■  --        I    '   U   ■     Mi  A  :i. 

.  ,  I'  ,x  ,  .  >  I.  ,i,''  !i  tr.L  ,  r.^.  :•  iM.'  pi  i  -■  >.;  |-.  -;-:■!,.  .■.  - 
■^111-!  ■ii.'M  ili.':-.'!'.ii.  i.-M''  i'i  I  Ij'  i:^.  M  I'  is.  l!i.'\  li.-..- 
;.ii '.1, -..,-•. 1  .;ji  nl.:]  ■  r  >  i  ;  piis  ,u.-  Iphi-  ^.  (m.iiiii  iiii_\  .I'n'^i 
(lirn'i'T   ai'  I    .1    j'nl     v::    ^•.:n"i  m  ■•    f',    •.    !i:u.'    a    iliii  i 

,  ,1,.  II  ;■  ir  :i    !,<■  -   :  !■■■    <  '.  ■  m!i'  ,■ :     lii.i  !;.:     i-  a'i    .'iii:-'-  ■  •  i:\ 

,,i.:„  ,:.•  .      ;    ■    .  ^u:il  ,•,.-.„.. 

1.1  till  •■■■    i.r    l.iiii-    _';!-.,'   '.M  '^^.    ;:i-.  ■ '!  >iiii  J    ,.- 
.,,..:  ■  ..,•  :,■>.  >  :1    ,:  i,  '.    1',-  a:-    ^iia  ;1.'  !  !a  a  l'   >!-  . 

I'^wari'    )  i;'t  .'i  !ai'  I  ■  '.   :,  aa  1  '.'i'  .:'  in  '  i'.  m  i^  a  ... 

;..  --I  .1!  ii-j'. .:!•■, a   •  :  ,  1..1   r.  retail. ii  c:'  a      ■ 
!  .    ailiia.a's  w  i  ;i  ii.  it  .■  a!!  i  a  a   la  :  a  \'.  a  i  .    ■ 
•  ,   aili'S    or  ilarl^    c-    '   '.    i.  a'  lia-    iai;  ;■'  ■-'.■■n  '• 
;i,^  i>  ii-a  a-ai :.!.      !  ^  ^    .a  i  •'.    I;  :   :-i       -■ 


■A.l!     I    1   V. 

!i.   la.    - 


l!        1 


I'll  \iv  ill-  !..'■ 

.   I  a  J  rj  •  ■  a  1 '  a :  i  -  ■  i 
]>>  \    w  lii   [in  1.  a  t 
'     .  1;  !i    i;    ill  a  'A 
'It    lii!  -    In    w   .IV 


i  I.    !^  1  '  :i    <  a  11 

.  .  ■:!■     -,       ■     ■.  1 1|'  \'.  'r  I'l  ■■.  •  r  !iii  -a  1    •. 

a  ■-   ,  I  1  i  .    !  •       1     ,  (  ,  I  .        i  a    .      :  1  ■  ■  i  1  ■    '  -  1   . 

a   I  -:.  -  la  '    ua:  :■  ■.■  a  a'    \  ■ .. . .    w  '  'ai     i  i  I 

■  M.i.a-   W   lar.i.iN  ■    >    .        ■       1.    .:,  !. 

I  ^  .ri  •  ■  '  ra    ia  '  ,1  j     a'.'.    \s  <.,■    :i    \  i  .a 


a   <     i  a.l   a  -    I   I  ;  ,  a.         i  a'>    ai    '  a  >  ;   ■  I     r.  v  :  :i      '^   :i,i;. 
■■.  laa'   1  a  a',   i      !>i  i.iir>.  ;mi  !  it  -■  laa  ■■ .  In  m..'  ;iic  n.' 


I?0  A    JOL.INAL    OF    'I'KWKLS    IS; 

IMr.  0 .  and  I  fceiing  iinpatier.t  to  get  sonicth'u.u 

likf;  a  general  iilca  of  the  appearance  of  Lontloii,  set  out 
and  \v;dked  at  random.  We  passed  street  after  street, 
and  I'jriied  corner  after  corner,  till  our  littli'  knowledge  of 
the  town,  ^his,  gained  from  having  once  before  been  here, 
for  a  short  time,  and  mine  from  an  inspection  of  the  map,) 
\\"ds  enhaustcd,  and  we  wandered  on,  till  our  heads  were 
completely  turned,  and  we  were  lost  in  endless  mazes  of 
shops,  houses,  courts  and  streets.  When  we  enquired  the 
way  to  Cavendish  Sijuare,  the  directions  were  even  less 
iiil-.-lligible  than  the  town  itself;  no  hackney  coaches  were 
lu  be  found,  and  we  at  last  concluded  that,  as  even  Lon- 
don must  have  an  end,  we  would  persist  till  we  s'lould  find 
it,  and  then  endeavour  to  correct  oar  reckoning,  and  staii 
f'airiv  for  a  return.  We  rambled  on,  a  tediotis  length  of 
way,  till  we  found  ourselves  at  Spa  fields,  a  wateriu'i 
place,  with  a  chalybeate  spring  and  tea  gardeivs,  just  on 
I  he  border  of  London.  Tiie  refreshments  of  the  [dace 
were  rendered  welcome  l)y  extreme  tatisue,  and  afier  be- 
ing, again  and  agfun,  bewildered,  we  at  lei':2!'i  reached 
our  lodgings,  with  the  wholesome  lesson  wiiich  expe'ieuce 
had  taualit  us,  that  a  stranger  should  not  ti-usl  himself  in 
f  iondon  v.-ilhnu1  a  guide,  or  ample  directions.  A  method 
wliieh  we  soon  found  it  necessary  to  adopt  v.as  to  plan 
every  excursion  with  the  aid  of  the  niap.  and  to  make  out 
on  a  [)ocket  card,  in  their  proper  succf  ssion,  a  H.>t  of  the 
streets  throuirh  which  we  wise.cd  to  pass. 

.1/(V;/  2]. — Tlie  number  (d'  eating  houses  in  London  i- 
iinmeu^e.  You  can  hardly  pass  th.rouidi  a  street  whhout 
lindiniT  one,  and  in  the  earliest  excursion  wliich  I  had  oc- 
casion to  make  for  dinner,  I  went  into  the  first  house  ot 
this  description  which  J  saw.      I   caiiui>t  say  tliat  it  was 


IN.:    \  M).     11"!  1    \\:>     \\ 


■  ,  \    I   .:  A   A\    "V   I  .)!iiI.:ll.lllH'.   .l;lil    ,. 

'  )     1,  iiniii;;:  tn  iii\   !.>  !.i:i>.  i  w.iv   !i,    iiiMMi  '  '<>   'k   i  i  ) 

^I,.   1) ii..-,\   (!'ia;.!s    I   i..i'l  .;i:;;.i.  lut    ;.■    -.'...i    ... 

'.■I,.-.  ,i  mr  li\  (!>•(■!  ii;i;-  U'..<[  li''  !i  :.i  i.'-'  .!ii!i  •:  l.'i  .; . 
j).  i;i  ■  .  ^  ir.i  u  ill  II' 't  •.Mj.;...-!'  t'.Ml  1  Mi:ill  !•>■  -,li.  ;:":i^  ;.i 
.•\ti:i  1  MIS  ''Vjii'iiii:!;!!^  \i\\  1  ir  in  t!  ;-,  v  ,\.  |.'i;  i;;.-, 
I'.iri-  w  ;ll  li  ilii  .'  1  '  ^  il'ii'.  1)"'.\  riiniii!(  ;.  '\  .  i,j  I  .Mi;>i  ■;;.  ,i  |i,:i:i 
':i:i\  ,1  c-.Mriiu.j.'''  his  liviii.  !■  !i:s  \\i-!:«'-  m  '  m  .  i.ii  i- ;  .i  i., 
,  .  ..        Ml     i:i  :',  .  I!     i..     ,.!■  .1-'   •.     I'llli'  :il    the     !  .< 'il'  !•  l)   *    •  I  Ti  i 

;;ir  l.ir  tiin  •■  i     iiir. 

U  /  7    .'  ' .  —  1  I  r  ■   1 1 1 1  - ;  1 1 '  ■  ^  >  1 ' :     .  ■  r  I  u  I  ■  1  ;  1 1  ^    \:   \    ;    ! ;  ^  .  -   i , ;   i ' 

.  ■■!  '  i'li'ii.  ;i;;' !  Ill  i;ii|ii  i-:;i  .■  i:  jn  i;i  ^1 1 ,,  .i  :'  i  ^  ,,li  i  ■:  ■!,  j  :u  i.  mi 
•  .  '  '  •.  .1  t  .  iiir.  u.iN  v,  iiiit  !  ..'■\\\'',i\':]{  '.:;.!'.-:■'  :i-al  ii'  U' 
-    I     -I  ;|M  I'l:    .i!.  .  il.       I'im;:!    !:i'    :;i  ].i'  ;;-  ,;:;   :.    iur.     uf   tl,-- 

:  ;;■.  \  \\]  .;..  i  tl  'ii  irr  11  ;•!  i,i,-  '  ;•.  -!  1.1  iii:i  :•<..  :,;ii!,  s:i!l 
III  :'  .  ' :.  il  !.\  III  T'  i.iiiii .  ;',  l,;i  i  i'  :;  :.;iiili  i!  •.'.  ;■  :i  ;  ■.■  s-i,-.; ,, 
1  I..I  •!,!  !i  ■■  I'l,  .Ij!'  .ill  I  ;'.•  ,  .'  ;■■■■,  U'..-:,  .-.  ;.■-  lii'ii'ii  ;i- 
ji  .--i'ili-.  Ii\  !i  ii-i'  :.•■.-:  -I  l!i,;!.  ii'  .li  ';  . .  .  ;i  ;  ji  M-  i  -  to 
j.-'iijili'  M-,;!Iri  1-  1  ,iil  ,r,,-i  ll;i^  iiiil,;i'li- I'  Ii.'A  ;:.  I  1:  i  i ,.  ii".  I  ;•  ■: 
(  Til---  111  \  Il  ;r  ^  Ml'  ir.  Il  ■  '  ^'ii  ill  U  l  i.  ■  ;i  \^  :i  !:•  :  i  >■  ,;|  ',  .  '{  i;i 
'  '■::   mHiMI"^   I'l'illii -tl"!    W  .1:!      1 1 ,1  f.  '   i  Mi 'I  :  i  .1 1      hi      r.lljl.Mlii     .IM' 

|iiii\-i  Is  i!i"  -.i.iH-  uil'i  ii'i!-.  Mi-i  "1  ;!i.i  I  t  1  \\;ii>,ii  I 
li  !  1  1'  I'l  I  •-  v'.  II  r  li'  it  ,it  i|.  Mill'.  I  il,.  1  ;:  r',1,1-  :  I  :'i  I  '.•.  I'  il 
till'  .11  1  1.;  .1  I'M  -il  1  :i  ili;i  i|  111'-  t'l  lii  -^  i!'  il  l;ii'  !i,;m;ii  .- 
\v  iliiin  .1  iiK!  JiiMti-  |it  I  I'l  i  ;  r:ii  ii>  w  '  i  '■  .  . '  ','.  i  I  ii  iin  i -t  nl 
tin     ||  tti  I  ..  .:IM   .1.  tiii.    l■^   lir-    /'  ^'  //,.'/-■-  ■     •.'.  :.!•  il   ;I'r  (•'l^- 


l  I ;  1  - 


I'  '  \    il  i\  I'   I  \  I  I A    w  iii'i  I-  (  -.1  I'lli-.i.     !.    I 


:\>     I:  *■- 


f|ii!i'_:  iii'iii-  !ii  I'li  tiri'.i  t'l  ".;i  :  ;!,•    i  ■  muI-. 


l?i' 


JOURNAL    Oi-    jUA\i:i.S    IN 


mected  by  Sir  Chrisrt^jiher  Wren  naucr  llie  dircctioa  ol- 
diaries  ii.  to  con;r.u'ir;or.";te  the  oreal  lire  in  1666,  com- 
ing in  my  v.ay.  1  iiscondcd  t.)  the  iron  ptllery  near  the  top. 
rhiv  monuaic'i!;  is  a  fiuted  culunui  of  the  Doric  order  ; 
its  diameter  at  the  l)a,-e  is  finecn  feet,  and  its  heipiit  two 
!!un(h\'d  and  two  feet,  'i'he  asc(!nt  is  by  three  iinn(h'ed 
-Uici  forty-live  stone  stops  wiiidino'  spirally  aloo'j  tl>e  in- 
side. Hue!'  constant  tnruing  and  turiiina',  for  such  a  leiiplh 
.)f  wa}-,  makes  ones  bniins  giddy,  and  l;Is  ];nees  totter  be- 
lioaili  bin!. 

Tiie  t!ib;ilar  form  of  ilie  monnnient  \.\  udiich  tlie^re  are 
opei.ii.'.'''  to  aihnit  !i:.'bit  and  aii'.  wondei'fiihy  increases  the 
^oi^e  ofihe  city  and  of  Lon;!*);!  biivl-v.  and  the  ro;irinfj  of 
[lie  wind,  so  that  1  was  alnjost  deal^"iK:d  wiih  liie  incessant 
and  eonfn'^ed  din  of  v- bee's  and  cries. 

Tie'  I'b;  d':^h  eoiisidij'  this  ;^i()i;i'me:u  ■':■-  the  !iiost  beau- 
i;i':d  pill^i;-  i\  the  \rorld.  rnio.-iiisew -'y  it  stands  in  an 
,t':-.r-\ic  ::l\\\  ■{:■.:-.{  r:i  !-e:ee"  \-:v,  :::'i'!;i.h  'I'-'-iw  the  liank  of 
the  ;l\tr  and  \>  'thin  iv/a  I  ^a  ';;'■:  y.^i  ds  i;;  !  ,v;;ido:;  inacige. 
On  an  cenn;' v.e  i'  ^■onl^!  !;c  e  inosi  ew:n>n,\n'iing  object. 
Bel  ii-  s:U;:!'i''  i  'S  ia/\  erl'iob;:-:  p/opes-.  as  it  stsniJs  on  the 
•ipot  \'lr:*   :';i   il;',  ;ao!,o  o^i  whiidi  dciiroyed  a  great  [)art 


<.fn  the  peue-;'  d  ot  the  nionieeeu;.  thero  is  a,  Latin  in- 
■.cvi^jt^on.  g'vin^r  an  ae'-oniu  oi dho  (>e(  n*  and  oi'tlio  n:anner 
:n  \vh:(!,  ih-'  <  ::;)oi:se  <ii' ''lectinj:  li;c  p!!I,ir  was  di^h'ayech 
\\]  tiiis  i-;  \Ci\  \v<!h  i:!!t  no  oei"  will  I'clji've;  the  ciiariie 
vudfh  i-;  advU  d.  !i:cit  the  fire  was  kiedh  d  by  the  iloman 
?'H'!ee;e:^, 


f  Ml   wn.   l!<ii  !   \M>     \M)    -(<.;i   \M).  i^;; 

I'lii-  i!  t\  lii'iii'j  cl'-ar.  1  •■iiiiixi'd  iioui  l!;i'  irmi  '/.-il'.'iv 
iiiMr  iIh'  I'l])  i)i'  tlif  iiinniimi'iit.  ;i  liiir  \  leu  <<\  I  .'Mi,],,!!  ,111. 1 
i:^  fr.\  intn^.  It  U  iiilml  .!  \,ist  i-ir\  :  it  is  a  w.irM. — 
Siiiitliuaik  al.Mir  w.mli!  iiiuk*'  ,1  'jTf  it  tijun-  ii'  |pl;icril  \,\ 
it'M'l.''.  1)111.  (■  iiiiicrti-  I  uilli  l.dililoii,  it  Is  oilK  t'p;  i:i'm  <■;' 
till-  'jai  ini'iil. 

ci'iMM.  01   nir.  .m:\\   ixk  k 

'/'/V  ^'■"'.  — I'-N     t!l''     |Jnrn.'iir>>    nl"    Mr.     \\illlaill>     I     \^:iN 
,lillll!lt'-:l     l'll>    munUll-J   I'l   >rr  till'   fell  innilir-    at    till'    i'|ii'll- 

iiii  ni  tin  ii'W  il.irL  ,it  W  .ijijiiiij-.  \\  apjiinj  1^  ii'iiti-  a: 
111''  liiuiT  t'Mrriniiv  (ii  l.uii'lxii.  (Miili^ruoii'.  til  ill  It  part  mI 
ill''  ii^tT  wIhti'  til''  -hip-  III'  ill  L'!'' It  iiirailxTs.  I;  i>  ili, 
ii'-iiit  111'  saili)!  s,  au'i  pi'iijili'  <-iiiiiii'(ti''l  \ni!i  iri\  i'_.iti.  a:, 
aii'i  i^  imt  (  iiii.>iili'rr(i  a>  luiii^  u  it  hi  11  tiic  limits  i-'  '_'■  I'.iilils 
aii'i  la>;iiiiii.  \\  I  I'll  Mill  till'  -tii'i  t^  iiiri'iiw  aii'i  >.a  ts .  .lU  1 
lip  \  \v>'!i'  (  i.iVi'ii'il  h>i-  .1  mill  lip  iimri'  witli  iiifii.  w.iaiii:. 
aa.i  rhililii'ii  li.iii'_iii'.:  all  lilt  llh'  limiiN  aini  vxiipinWs.  \-.  i;!i 
till'  ii(lu-l\i'  f\|i.  I  t  it  lull  ul  Nicilpj  (ill  Ixiiij.  r'ai'ii.  ,i!lJ 
\i'\a\  |aiiiil\  .  w  l|ii.  a^  lame  ha.  I  ii  pi  uti'i  1.  wt"  tn  atli  ;;'i 
till  iijii'iiiirj  11!  I'll-  . I'll  Is.  I  hi-i'  |ii'ii|i!i-  \m:.'  lai'if  la:- 
'ji-il.  Iill;i\  .  aa-i  a'i:i  inaii  i  .  \\  nii'ln-.  i.  ihiii  .(ii\  t  !a>-  w  ii  ai 
I  haM-  I'V.  1'  ^.  I  a.  \  t  \  ili'V  uiit'.-ij.i  In  •_  !/.■'  mi  tin' 
l\!ii_.  M.iiii  ii'ii  >  n  1;    I'Mi  ,1    11  aiii'ar    tiir    laia  ^    ni     \\    ivpi:'^ 

with    11.^    |llT-i  111  •■. 

h  n  1^  ;li''  <  ihSa!  I  i.r  th.'  .Ji  w..  ail, I  /A/v  ,/■  ...,,',  ,/  p.',,- 
iin  ;.i:ii,i  1  1  r  '.,~...'  i,.;ili'  p.Mt  I'l  till-  ia-iiv\i!  111  tii-'  sirn  In. 
\Ii)-i  dl  tii'-  j'.ivi",  !M'  11  \^i:r  tlii'ir  inaiiis  .it  lal!  Irii'.lii. 
iii'l  --iiiiir  aia.'i'..  ii.rm.  1 'i- ;  1  nv  ii>iii-i  1  !i\  luil  laiin's,  wi  n- 
-  il'l  [■•-  111-  W  .':i',.-~.  In  liii  ipinai  Ill's  ,iiii|  tiilii'i!''  t  \i  :\ 
uiaii'   piM-'il    l;'i.  a    lia     .Irw-.    \\i'    ii!)-i|\r    .1    l;\in'     ,11:, t 


!Kni.j  'a.aUr 


a't\  I'l  Iia    1"  'M  raf   [''ji^iatia 


17-1  A    JfU  K.NAL    OF    THAVK/.S    IN 

that  tliey  should  become  "  uu  astoiushmcut,  a  provcrii. 
and  a  b^yword  ainoii»-  all  nations/"' 

I'lie  ducks  wiiich  we  went  to  see  are  precisely  like  tlioso 
at  [Jverpool.  exce[)t  tliat  they  are  much  larjrer,  aud  arc 
enclosed  by  a  hinh  brick  wall,  the  object  of  which  is  to 
prevent  thefts.  Tliese  docks  have  been  constructed  at  a 
vast  expense,  by  removino-  many  hrmdreds  of  houses  to 
make  wiiv  for  them,  and  by  making  them  of  such  extent 
a>  to  conlain  more  than  fixe  hundred  ships  with  room  to 
vhiM  [)laces.  There  are  with.in  the  walls  very  extensive 
ware  Itouses  for  the  reception  of  goods,  and  the  tobacco 
w-u'c  iiouso,  wliich  covers  six  acres  of  ground,  is  said  to 
k-e  t'le  l:;r;M'st  in  tlie  world.  All  this  CTeat  accommodation 
for  sliips  is  so  much  added  to  the  capacity  of  the  river, 
wliicli  is  always  exceedinu'y  crowded,  and  the  dock  has  a 
verv  great  superiority  in  point  of  safety. 

Some  distance  below  the  V."appin<i  dock  is  another  in 
the  fsle  of  Dogs.  Tlie  Isle  of  Poirs*  is  a  marshy  ])eninsula, 
formed  I'V  a  large  curve  which  the  river  takes  in  a  course 
almost  circular.  They  have  cut  through  the  neck  of  this 
j)enins!ila.  and  foi-med  the  ca.vity  into  an  extensive  dock 
for  the  AS'esf-Tndia  trade.  Tliis  trade  then^fore  deposits 
its  car.Toes  at  a  considerable  distance  below  London,  and 
as  it  us;ian\  a'Tives  in  fleets,  much  d;imaci-e.  wliich  was 
former] V  sustained  when  it  lay  in  the  !)ed  c>f  the  river,  is 
now  .ivoided. 

llie  West-India  docks  cover  iietween  fifty  and  sixty 
acres  of  i/rinnid  ;  lliry  can  receixe  ma:;y  Innidi'cds  of  ships, 
and  h;ive  immens!^  ranges  of  w;i!'e-houses  within  the  walls. 

•  H  i'  --iM  til, 11  a  :<iy;!'  k'-.ti-l  ■v;)'^  'Mic^  ];cpt  ':0!-c  \\!m'-''  jravo 
«ri::'.a  to  l!it  aaiiM  . 


\  : ) .     1 1 .  .  1  1 .  \  N  1)      WD     -'■.!!    \  M  I 


i  ' 


>iii  li    nil  Miiln 'lit     |i|("it>    111    cpiiiiur'  :  il    ;i!m.|miii\    th. 

U  HI  M  III-    111  \  IT    SI.  II    hi't.ii  r. 

S.i  jnil  \'.,is  III!'  iTinvd  ill, it  it  \v,i>  ;i  Imij  liiii.'  Ii.Imii 
w  I'  I  ii;ili|  '^,11,1  a'lMii>-i(iii  w  uliiii  l!:i-  w  ill-  nil  III-  I.I  w  c,  m  k. 
\\  f  |i,i,|  I'l  jiisN  I'lumjii  ,1  sin.ill  il.inr  \\!iri\'  n;il\  mn'  m 
l\v,,  'Aiic  |iii(iiilti-,l  III  nil'T  al  CM1II-.  \  r;.ili-i!  |iivvijf 
Ir.l  1.1  liir  (Iniir,  ail. I  w  ' ■  v^i'K'  |.isi|i'.i  aii'l  [ir'-s>ci!  Ic'i  ail 
Ihi  ir  aiiii'Ul  li.  at  au.l  .la-t.  lu'La'*  \\r  r..;:!.|  a!\a.;ii-  imi.- 
liMii  !:■•  !  •>  i;.U  i.«  l;i''  ::.:l^.  \i  1'  :<  .t'l  w'  ■  hIi  r<  ■..  ami. 
s..  ■■!  a:ti'! .  iin-  I  ."I 'i  ^1  !•,  :ir  ail. !  Mill,  r  lii -liii.jais'ir.l  j.^i- 
Miiia.''s  aiiivi'  !  Ill  til"  ii'  laiai'Ii.  ■■.  |  i].  jir.it  .Ih.iis  \\rvi> 
til  .lU  11  (i|n'ii.  iii.i  till'  J  liiai.:  ci".  lu  i|  1 1  m!vi  .|  aiHiui.i  III  jias 
llini  NilcMiI  lima  i^a    i'l  ia.ii''i'.  laiil^,  .\i]>\  •>[  iLa, ;,  n  . 

'I  III-  |iri-(isi'  ii!i;,  it  nj  liir  (•  a, 'i  1 1,  ,  1 1  \  I, I  ill,.  ,|.,\  \^;|^  t,, 
(■r!i  !ii  .Itr  till'  a'!l!i:-~-lM|i  i.|  lll.'  rilMsiups  illln  tin'  .|..rk. 
\\  llirll    \\  ,l>  I  ill  n    |ii-I    lllll  -lit  .1. 

\i  a  111  liir,  !\  .  at  I  In-  ,1 1  p]  I' a  II  III  iii.  iiinni .  il.i-  w  ,ti'  r  li!>'s 
111  Iiii'  lii.ik  ui'M-  tai'.Wii  ii|Mil.aiiii  Iwii  siiip^.  ijiTi.,  ilc.l 
Witii  ill.'  ('.•l-iii-  .i|  ,ill  li  il;.i;i~.  I  iiti'M''!.  u'l'ii  1  till'  (ii-- 
ili.ii  ■_i' lit  (,1111)1111.  .lllll  \u;ii  iiMil'.il  1111-11-  Ii.iiu  l\\.i  liaii'is 
nil  -ii.iH'.  .^.  lllll'  I  i.  Ml-.  111,!-  Ill  -jM  rial.  I  -  w  I  I  ■'  III.  ikiiij  mi. 
'I'hi' ('.ilmir-  I.I  I  Mill.'  \v('i.'  Iniii'  !i.'!i..i|!i  ili,'  li.  .\^  sjhu. 
aii.j  .!ia"".',l  .iL.ii  -  III  i;i.ii  -aa  ,i|,.ii.  fiiii  imM.'i'v,  .|  jn  w ,.. 
hi.        Ill"      \i  I.I  1  1.     11     1  ..  1 ,1111  -     \'.  I  1'.'    s  ,.  I, ,'.,:,  ,i    l!    ,  II   liir 


im/.i'U  I..|i-!iia-I    si  IS  .    .1 


il'   ,il',M  It    |..:,i,ll.'    h,  :  ..III 


I  J,  ,-■'  I  1    i ),  mil  ;ik  ,iii.l   ."-v. .  .i'  II   \\ ,  I .'  all'  .\  I    t'a  ai. 

W  .      I,  ,..'    1...  a    .,i-,.!i..a.'i'-     I  '  ;.;  '  u.     ■■:!    ..ar  :o.,.i 
,'.  il  iiij  .    ,1  !l ';.  1.1  .  li    s'  I  iiiiir.  1  »     1 1  '              '  -.  Ill  i\\     .111,  i 

'  lii'll.  ,1  -lia.!.,\V    ..!    ll-i  .l.a-ai  .'   I"  '  .  : i      raiiihi.     'I'li;- 


w  a  s  III.    w 

'  Mli'l'l-l,.! 


',      I, 


IP. 11'.     ni    III 


■\.'i'i.r  t' 


17<J  A   JOURNAL    OF    TRA.VELS    IN 


No.  XIL— .LONDON. 

I'he  tower — Origin — Extent — Yeomen  o''U)C  giiai'ds — Touei-gua- 
— the  Sjianish  armoury — Queen  Elizaljctli — Walking-slick  oi 
Henry  V!1I. — An  ancient  axe  used  at  executions — SiiKill  ar- 
moiiry — Ancient  cannon — Beautiful  arrangement  oi'  small  r,rm> 
—  Hoi'se  armoury — Kings  on  Horseijack — Armour  ot'  distin- 
guished individuals — The  I'cgalia — Crow  ns,  sceptres,  diudoms, 
kc. — Their  great  beauty  and  value — Wild  beasts  of  the  touei' — 
Incidents — A  hospital — Missionary  Society — Fanoraina  of  Gil- 
rallar. 

TflK  TOWER  OF  LONDON, 

so  fonious  in  tiie  history  of  Eii'jhuul,  is  situatoil  near  the 
AVapping  dock,  and  nnturally  attracted  onr  attention  next, 
Altliongh  it  has  been  asserted  tliat  there  was  a  Ibrtificatiou 
here  in  the  time  of  Jnliiis  ("iesar,  the  tower  is  generally 
believed  to  have  been  erected  by  ^^'illiam  the  Conqueror. 
He  trusted  so  much  more  to  the  fears  than  to  the  affection 
of  his  subjects,  that  he  built  the  white  tower  to  overawe 
the  neighbouring  cit\'.  The  structures  which  now  co  un- 
der the  name  of  the  tower  are  ninnert)us  and  various.  So 
many  alterations  and  additions  have  been  made  by  suc- 
cessive monarchs,  that  it  is  probable  no  portion  of  the 
buildiniiS  remains  as  the  con(jueror  left  them.  The  white 
tower  presents  a  number  of  lofty  turrets,  which  are  visible 
from  every  elevated  point  in  and  abt)ut  London.  All  that 
now  passes  under  the  name  of  the  tower  comprehends  n 
great  jumiber  of  buildinirs.  i-ndosed  by  a  wall,  which  is 
surrounded  by  a  broad  and  deep  ditch.  The  space  with- 
in the  wall  is  more  tlian  twelve  acres,  and  the  surrounding 
d'iich  .Ir.'.s  a  ciicuil  of  more  tlum  three  thousand  i'eet.      A 


K\.    I    \M).     H(M  1    \M>      \M)     "-lull    •.Nl).  i^7 

•  III  N'  I'  J  A   1   ,     i:ii  !  1  III :  'A  a.iiii  ;ii''    |ii  I  •  iii'!^  ( 'I    fill-    1.  '\mt  : 
It   '^  i!.'.,.|ii    I  \   a  ni.ii,!ifi    (■;' -ti  r.i^.  .inil  !i,i^  ,i  >(  i:-'iiii  i  ,l- 
!.■■i■|i  I    I   ..iiiiTi.ii    \miMii-  saiii".^    |i'i!-i  (■    i.iiir. -. 
A  ;■  :.       li  I  ::'■    i.iw  (  I    \\  ,i>   i>i  I  jiii.ilh    IumIi  .!v    ,i    ii.i  ii  i  ,..  ii 
:'.  :  n.'t  ii'  ill    ii'ii  an  Ikhit    a    ain-i  \\\r   a-vanli^  i.l    iiim,|- 
:  war.       >', ;!l  tin-    a].;"  ai  ini'r  aip!   [i  iia-ir  ol    a  :'a!ri-"ii 
.11''  III  lint  till  ■■!  ;    till'  L  .1'  -  .ii'-  11(11  IH    i  aipi  -lull   V.  it'i  niii'  li 
'T;,  .'  :\  :  —  a  'i    \  <  aiiimn  an'  mn'iali''!  'ai  llii-  waiiv.  aii.i  a 
:  !  r\    1  ill  ci    In  iiiaini  I11I..I   u  ilii;ii.        \    Ma:  I 
a-'.-;  -  '•(  a  ci.i  jiv  lit'    ni>  a  i  alli    i    ^  i  nii;':i    nl 

:  '  .         ,         ..<■;'.     ■i|v;iii     irjvl|,-,|      !i\       a      I'l  .-ili^al       .i.,'.;'  'I'lIK 

W  l.a  a     1-   lac       a   !!>'   I  ii  il    \\  av    \\  i  M'll    l  a   I  iP'    I  iiii'      .  .l      I  1 1  i:;  \ 

\  III.        I  la  .    a  I"-    a  I  III  I  la-    ana  linlnai'ii-  n  in  na:  it  >■]    an- 

'ii;'!..       ••    !  ia  a'    '•    a:>    \\.i\r     ]■!]■•■    nIi'i'M-     an-l     llawiir/ 

■I  i.'l    I  liili.     i  a  r,l    1,  anii  lia'    <  .'-t  s 

11-  '.'.   •  .   -•  \ '  i  .1  M  i\\  >  ■  'T  •_■  iM  i  11  I-.  an.i  a  \<\  ■  M^i  Lr- 

';,,.!. la  a    \'.    ,:  -:-.        <  »u   tlr  IT  !  a.'i^v  ■>:.  1   ':  !•■  i-I- 

:  .     .      '  .    I'liU  i-v.  •|tM|'      ]'■„■    lal-'lf    aii'l 

■  .    '.a     'A  a  ■  ii    .   :■      Ii.i-     !■  Ki  1  -    <  i.     I!.        'Ill'  :r    r  i[i>     ,,if 

ai  ;.  l!  :;    i:    1   'ji,  ami   !!■  a    .'n-'I    v.  ■I'.i   '.aa-!-    '■:    j^ar';, -la.l- 

■■  .^..l  iiM.iial-.."" 

I  a'  j  r!  ,  a'lj ,  , '    ,    ,  -   •   .  \\^\i      I  :   !■■  I.  ,vv ,;-;,,;    ■■     1]  a  .  ■  '•  a  .a- 
:.  .11 '    ;  a  lii'    n.'  ,' .      -    i    -i  •■■-  \.f','    a.    ,■     i   la'      .    ■  -  -     i-    a 

.    .    ji.iMl    nl   s,.al.-    .. 

I  1  .i!  lai-  !  Ill  !.     \\  !■  .a-    a  -   I  .  la  'i:     ,.    '.  ■     !;■    -.   i '^ 

■  a    'la     i;    a,      ..:    -'i      t.    v,      ,      -an-.  la     ■  •     a   ■■  ■    .>    r  '.'.•'.'■II 

,  I  al  i   !:•!'  a  :  ■'  ■         I  111'  1 1 ''.M  r 

,:-'.:                                  !.   la  a.  ■  a   -i  :•■  '   i     ;..•  I    ■  'ai'  -•.  nana  la- 

ali  !\    '  ■■ .                        .        \\   i!  ;a  -a!    1  ;a  v.    .'.'  .- 1    1 1  h'   i  a  '  a  h  .   li  ( 'i  ai 


a   II  "ii    < 


1*8  A    JOURNAL    OF    TRAVELS   IN 

river,  and  are  fired  only  on  state  holydays,  and  other  occy- 
sjons  of  public  rejoicing,  e:>pecially  when  victories  are  an- 
nounced. 

Willi  one  of  tiie  yeomen  of  the  guards  for  our  guide,  we 
entered  the  tower  to  view  its  principal  curiosities.  The 
venerable  dress  of  this  antique  looking  soldier  produced  a 
singular  impression  of  solemnity  and  ridicule.  We  could 
scarcely  avoid  the  persuasion  that  our  guide  was  really 
two  or  three  centuries  old,  znv.]  had  ministered  in  person 
to  the  great  champion  of  jea'ous  liusbands,  the  ca[)ricious 
and  uxorious  Il-Mirj'. 

The  first  aparlment  which  we  visited  was  the  Spanish 
Arinoiu-y,  for  so  they  call  the  room  in  wliich  arc  deposited 
t!ie  arms  taken  from  the  Fj;aniards,  at  the  defeat  of  tlic 
famous  Armada,  so  iou'i  the  terror  of  England  and  tlie 
boast  of  Spain.  These  arms  are  kept  in  exc<'llent  oi  dt'r, 
bpiuir  very  bright,  and  so  arranged  as  to  exhibit  them  to 
nuicli  advantage.  Tiiey  appear  perfectly  sound,  althou'.di 
the  hands  which  wielded,  and  those  which  took  them,  are 
long  since  mouldered  into  dust. 

They  consist  of  spears,  swords,  battle-axes,  shields,  pis- 
tols, and  other  implements  of  war.  It  was  a  hiudi  gratifi- 
cation to  behold  these  authentic  remnants  of  that  celebrated 
expedition.  In  viewinii  the  curiosities  of  the  tower,  one 
lias  tiie  agreeable  rellection,  tliat  lie  may  rely  with  perfect 
confidence  upon  the  genuineness  of  all  t'le  antiques,  with- 
out the  danger  of  imposition,  so  common  in  similar  cases  ; 
for  Knaiand  has  never  been  plundered,  nor  in  the  power 
of  an  enemy,  since  the  \ortnan  invasion,  a  [)eriod  of  more 
than  seven  hundred  years,  and  during  all  tli.'st  time  the 
tower  has  been  under  the  immediate  control  of  iroverO' 
nient. 


^Ni.r.AM),    HOI.LANH     AM)    xoll,  \M>.  1  ,  J 

\n  I  III'  >  ill  If  i'.)i)ui  arc  ^licwn  the  ihunil)  '-^llM^  ^.  a.^i  i.ili- 
IT  iiiNt!iiini'iil>  ol  toiliirr,  wliich  tin-  mi^iw,  .■nm-  iimti- 
tii'iir.'  .ind  laihUical  riui-liv  ol'tlii'  SjJaiiianK  iiidiir.  d  ili.an 

IM  III  iwj. 

'rin'ir  criifhy  n  a>  imt  luiu  r\('r  w  iiliout  an  clijiTt  :  tin  v 
ihKMiiird  111  cniiiidl  tiif  Ijil' li-li  lo  con  Ir^v  u  licii-  (In  ir  ;  i  I'a- 
siiri'^  u  iTi'  iii(Mri).  a->  liiiir  (.■i,iuiUrvnia)i  ( 'drtc/,  liiii  tiic  lir- 
H'i<'   Nlniitf/.iiina. 

(  >ai'  ('I'll  liirlnr  nt\t  rais>ai  a  nirtain  ai  i^;o  rn,|  df  t!ir 
I'll' Mil.  and  \M  di>rii\  I  ri  il  a  w  a\  li'^iii  r  lit'  (Jiiii-ii  I  di/.aliii!i, 
•-iaiiduij  li\  Jul'  liiM--i.  wliicli  i^  111  Id  l)\  a  p  I'ji-.  I  iic 
lai  iiituii'  III  till'  liiiiM'.  and  lln'  dn  ^<  .iiid  aniinni  nl  tiiis 
\  i:ia/,.i!i!aii  ijai'di,  arr  1  In"  ^a:'ii'  witli  uiiadi  -lif  a  1 1|  n'an  d 
,ii  ill.'  hi'-id  uf  lirr  !iia\»'  anii\  at  'l"ill)iir_\  I'nii.  uln:.'  -Ili- 
ad iii'  -i  d  llaaii.  ill  <'iaii','ni]i!al  i"U  nl  till-  SjiaiiiNli  ins  a-inii. 
i:i  il'!-  VI  ar  I  ."i--^. 

Till-  !i,ir-i'  !•.  rriaiii-ruiiMirrd.  an!  tlii'  i|nfrii  i-  dri  -M'd 
111  a  uiii;.-  ^Wls  |iiitii  "It.  fliT  d!i'--  -iiiii^  iimrr  adapli  d 
III  a  hall-:  ii.iiii  tiiaii  a  i-.'.ii'.]i.  !■  I' it  i>  -jiiiiiKlfd  with  |ll■aI!^ 
aii  I  sM,i;i_|r.,  :  \]]r  jia.'i  i)..id-  hi  1  111  i;i-'\"-  la  lna-I,  and 
tin-  \UM,!i  •_!!  ii,i|i.  iad'iiin  ''Mil  V  <il  lii-tm  n'al  initli.  is  \i  I'v 
\\'  !i   '  M'  nil  d. 

■^I'.'iai  I'lina  ihi.  I  isiii;  ■  artii  l^'>  arr  d'  jiiisiinl  in  il.is 
I  '  !■  lai.  I  la  1 1'  is  a  rni  i"a-  w  ali^ :  n'j-siirlv  lirrr.  \U!'i  ii  li  is 
I'iMl'  |il~ti  '1-  s.  I  an  !  111!  \  I  '  ii;' i-al'-d  ni  nlir  iMid  nl  it .  l!.  i' .  I'll 
a  lia-r\  ',  ■•■w  ,  iM  mil'  w.'il  i  si|v|,,ti  liil>  lali  nt  in  i  '  i/iiir. 
\\  I'll  111.  >  in  si  111  111'  lit  1 1'  ;.i  \  \  111.  \*  ii'  a  a  \  'mt'i.  n^i  .i  in 
j  i    ■  '  -  '      ,  I ,  ,  a     I  .1  aii  '■  .11   'ii\    Ml  J  III.    in   1  !>-:;:  vr,    i'  ,id\- 

;>    '        ,    ■      :    iii\   I'luii  iT  ;n  '.  I  a' Is  I'laai  i-  in  wliii  li  lir  ini^Iit 

!        '    -a  iiiai-i  ll  :    i"i     I  i'aii  s    v\  as  noi  Irss  ,|    h  iii\    iI-  ui 

■>  I  1.'.  !  a  tin-  in  I  ma  1  it  |s  s,(i,i  ih  it  Ii<  w  as  i  iiva'jf  !  ni 
:■     "I.:'!   p'a  nunii-'s  \-.  :t'.|  ill.      w-trli.       t  );"■    inav    iir,!' 


ISO  A    JOr'RNAL    OP    TRAVKLS    IN 

at  this  ridiculous  spirit  of  Io\v-)iiimled  bravery,  l)Ut  eiiio- 
tions  "fa  very  opposite  nature  are  excited  i)}'  aiiotiier  in- 
strument whicli  is  kept  here.  I  allade  to  the  axe  wiui 
which  the  beautiful  and  innocent  Ann  Tioleyn  was  behead- 
ed, to  <rratiiy  the  jealousy  of  this  same  Henry.  The  his- 
tory of  this  unfortunate  lady  has  deeply  interested  posteri- 
ty, and  j)rThaps  it  would  be  difficult  to  fnid  an  example  of 
more  pp.thetic  and  moving  eloquence,  than  is  exhibited  l*y 
her  in  the  last  letter  which  she  addressed  to  her  iisexcra- 
ble  lord,  while  she  was  confined  in  the  tower  unch'r  sen- 
tetice  of  death.  ^Phe  axe  is  shaped  very  nuich  like  a  !ar<;e 
cleaver,  [t  has  been  more  than  once  stained  with  noble 
blood,  for  witli  it.  the  I'arl  of  Kssex,  so  (hstiiifjnished  as 
(he  object  of  Fdi/.abetlrs  weak  })artialit\'  and  subsequent 
severity,  was  also  beheaded. 

We  next  visited  the  small  armoury,  which  is  in  another 
building,  erected  by  William  and  Mary  for  its  reception. 
In  the  lower  room  there  was  formerly  a  vast  collection  of 
ariillery,  the  greater  part  of  which  is  removed  a  little  way 
down  the  river  to  Woolwich,  now  the  principal  deposit  of 
the  royal  artillery.  This  lower  room  is  nearly  toui  hun- 
dred feet  in  leneth,  by  fifty  in  width,  imd  twenty-four  in 
height,  it  itill  contains  a  considerable  colltction  of  artil- 
lery, and  a  orcat  )nany  trophies  obtained  m  dilTcrent  wars. 
Amono- these  ;ire  two  curious  pie(  es  taken  at  the  battle  of 
Ra'v/ilies  by  the  great  Duke  of  .'iai-iboroii'j'i,  fjrsides  a 
number  caj;tured  i'rom  the  Spai'ias-ds,  and  other  nations  at 
\  ;u  ious  times. 

Wcvv  is  one  of  the  earliest  invented  cannon:  it  is  com- 
pos-'il  ol  !)ars  oi'iron,  weltled  tofrether  and  i)onnd  by  iron 
(loops.  It  lias  no  carri^'ce.  i>ut  was  moved  i)y  iron  liiifis. 
■^iich  is  i!^  si/.e,  that  it  is  iiicrrdible  it  could  t^ver  have  been 


h\,,!.\\l>.     Ili'Fl.Wt)      'Ml     w,,r,    vvD.  .'r 

<>;f.|.  liiiir--  til''   L' .n;)ii\\.ii'r  ci    li.'      _-     iMwiii'i   r,,nii.'ii 
atir  iiiv.Miiiu  ua^  u  r.'irii'.|i\   1:  i  i.  f'i   ,;  v,;,,,ll    miu  uiijif 
laul  in  at  tin    iiiii/./l" -'i  li'."  l"i:).       \iit.';  .;  .i    '::'.^l  viiir- 
:,  ,,i'ii);iii''>  «il'  <i'^ir;,(  li'ii  I.'i)l  in  I'.iis   i  n.,::.  ,.  .•ti-     in- 
-tpiiii  iit>  uilli    ulii'li  L'T'  II  .a  -  ai.'   lii!.i\\a.    n;  ;  a  ia":la; 
,  :    -;.iir.Niiin'_'  m/,.-.  u  illi  our  of  i!i.'  !'..ai!i^  '.c'.ai^.aj  to  ii. 
\!)i)\r  >taii<.  ill  a  rouin  ol'  m  .ii  !_\  U;.rr  liiia.ii.-.l  .;.'al  iili;. 
i.  <  I  ill  IfiiLMii.  vv  <■  \\f\r  [\.n-\\,\\  -ti  ii<  K  \'.  ;:!i  tiM-  li(  a;ii  .lai  .ir- 
I  a  1!.' a  pa  a  It  atiil  .ia/.'.liii.  hri'.'htai--  n.  >aif  inn:  iiaa  r.ii  i  l!ii_v 
I  Ilea -I  ail  ^tau  1  .a'a:  ai-.  wl-ji    ■••■'  '.i  ;  .:.'[[<  1  .^'W  -.  i .  ariia:- 
a.aa  l!i.-  lli'.a-  t'l  l!i''  '■,  ;iii;-.       ■i"!a-\V-i>    a    ^:.,al(a     Li'ai 
ai..al\   aihl    -jil    aa!' aa  t'.ii'    lia     nr,-,..  ;-■    ■lu-   ail  i  .ai  ni-'ia   '. 
,a;  I    I!!   til''    nil!'-'  nnaaa      I;  :>  ^..i  ;   ili.ii  iI..  n'  arf  iivaa!'\ 
",ual  tuo  laa;  li'".i  iIimu- aiai  >;ai;  :  n.aiaa-  ia  I  !.'•- i .  ..aa. 
I;,  -ilt-  lia'    iiia-kia^  I  111.-  ;-,    ii-a:l:,    a    ^I'lt    (a.!'.r;:  - 
•  1 1  -  'A  i  a" '  i  ~ .   I  a  - 1 '  I  i  ^ .  1 1  a  \  1 1  a  •  i  - .  :  ■ .  i  <  I   !  a  -• '  a  a  ; .  a '  i  i  ■  ■  - :  <  \     :\   a  a  - 
;.:     a'aa  -t  ih  aili.      '!  !a-  pia'  I-.  -aw.  N.  ,a,'l  '•:'..■     <  \    \' 
..  ;    la-li  liai'aa-.    ii  r    laia  iaii'  ,   a'a  .  la  i>l    lai  ' '       '■..'. 
■    ,1     :  1  I  I'l  a"i  ■■ '  al  ii  ,''■■- .    i  I  ai  i  ii    \v  aa  .i  w  ■ .  ■ ,  I: '.  - 

a  a    .    A  r.  aa.j    I'ai^     ]a'i  a  a'''   a    la  .!:...'.    >  .         '    .    '  a- 

anaa!  _    ;!i:     i'  ,i|l\    ~:.\-  aia   a  .!•  (a  i^a   ;  !i  il     a!   l:a>    !   .      a   '  ;- 


.all 


I    Ii 


"    "I'l' ^'     ^  I'"  i'  '■' 

ai  ia>kiial.       <  >a   i;a'   \\   ill-  aii-  mi- 

•  ■In  i,,L,ii  ii,.  .1  (!;.■  !i  Imi  1'  !m  '-  a;  ;'.,<    Mn,     .  '  -•  il,, 

I  >'  '\  ai  a  a  ;,:  i  ,•  ■  ■  .!  -i  a  |.  ai  i  a  i  I  ji;!  a.  1  '  ili  'tii  - '.'.  ■  a  . ,  .a  •  :ii 
•I  .a  ,ii-,  r  i;a.  I  ■  i  \i.  a!i  i  ia'  >•  >  a,  li  a,  -ai '_  I'a;  ■ ,  \'.  !  • ,  a  '  ..i\i. 
"'i  lia-  1  all'  .  .  la  lia'  i"a  a  'i  J.  r.  'l  ia  v\  a,!-  a  i'  a.  ,  la, 
;•■•!   v^  i'ii  li  ia-  :  .i.    11  ai'ia  t!a    I   i .  '  .  i;  ,  l     M  .i;a.  .aai    liaa  i 

I-  a  .  ni  ii.a--   ^1  li'r-.   .'  laa -r.  !■  <  \   \>.i  :.  an  !  i    i\  ■  :'.  ,i  \i    a 

!   a-  iii'i-I   (  \.,!)(a  ,'ia   la  !\  laaia-. 

I  ill-  lau.'a  laai  .a!  (■  .a\   aa.a'ii^  >aia  nl'  lia'  anr>t  f.IiiiM 

'■.■•,\-.  la   liir   I,';;   [.  m   \\,.'    \i  ,  , ;  I   i. 

\  I  a..  1.  !  I . 


1S2 


\    ,101  i.-NAL    OK    'IKAVKL*    I.V 


'i'li"  liiDX'  annourv  is  still  more  iii'.crcstiiit;  tii;u!  I.iie 
loom  whirl)  iias  just  l.'cen  (lescribtd,  Jii  it  is  a  peat  col- 
lection of  ancient  ;u'inour,  .such  as  was  worn  dnrinj:  thf 
i-ciaii  ot"  the  ( -onqacror,  and  Jroni  his  po'iod  onward,  till 
t];"  iiitroditction  of  fire  ar.ns  niade  a  total  chiinge  in  the 
Hi'tofwai.  'I'lic  lir.^l  thina' tluit  strikes  one  on  entering 
tii<'  room,  is  llie  line  ol"  I'.n^lish  kings  fioni  the  (.'onquer- 
or  down,  all  niounled  on  horseliack.  arrayed  in  coin])lete 
suits  oi  armour,  eij'iipjied  with  tiie  weaj)on>  of  tliose  times, 
und  attended  by  a  loiii;'  line  of  tonnnon  s<tldiers.  armed 
and  clad  in  tlie  fashion  of  the  days  of  kniidit  errantry. 
These  suits  of  armour  are  no  models  or  modei'n  i'nitations, 
bill  the  very  authentic  arnmui  of  the  dark  aires,  aiid,  as- 
c<'rlain('d,  in  many  in>taiices  to  liav<;  Ijelon^i't'd  to  j)aiticu- 
lar  distinguished  indi\  iduals.  For  instance,  tlu.'  suit  in 
which  ^Villianl,  I'rince  of  v_)rang(!  is  arrayed,  is  ilie  same 
which  was  worn  In  Ktlward  tlu;  [Mack  Prince,  at  tlie 
glorious  battle  of  Cressy.  Edward  \.  ha^  tiie  crown  s!is- 
pended  over  liis  head.  Vou  will  remem!)er  that  he  v>as 
proclainx'd,  but  nevi;r  crowned.  The  horses  are  xcry 
well  e\("cuiv'(l,  and  tlie  I'aces  of  the  monarchs  are  no  cou- 
tein])ti!ile  imilati(>us  o[  their  jiortraits.  There  is  the  ui- 
>iantlc  r;r!i)()nr  ofJolni  of  (iaunt,  seven  I'eet  hi<jh,  with  his 
sword,  and  lance  of  C(jrres[)0!i(k'in  riimensions.  It  se(.;>.,i 
scarcely  credible  that  such  a  >uit  of  armour  was  ever  worn, 
\et  one  can  hardly  suppose  tliat  it  would,  have  been  nuide, 
unless  there  had  beeii  a  man  to  wear  it.  Such  a  suit  would 
have  rendered '•  him  o!  (>atli.'"  invulnerable  by  the  siing 
a!i'l  pel-Ides  of  the  youthful  slieplierd.  TlK're  is  a  suit  of 
armiiiu'  Iti're  rougli  fi-oni  the  haauner.  as  it  was  Ijeaten  out 
ior  ilem'v  Mil.  ulien   eighteen  years  edd:  it    is  six  feet 


!  \..;   '.Ml.    Id  .f  I   \n;i    w.)    ->  "  .  I   \  Ni'- 


l;i_li.  Ii;ii  a-  ii  pi.  i\i''i  i.i"  -ill.  i!l  I'll   I  111  II.  II  \> ..-  Ill  \  •  r   tm- 
i^lii    1. 

Tiii^  ri.ll.  rii.  Ill  "I  ;ni'H  111  aiiiiniir  i-  mia  mii  ;■  -linj. 
ail  I  .ilnii'UjIi  il  u  I-  I'M'  I  111'  I  \  ui.ifil^  ill-  I"  iii\  .  M  h'-ii  \ . 
I  III;  iii.i  111'  stiil  iiii.n  iiii,iiiii,iiit  ,1-  IJIi: -Il  .i!'i!j  lii-I'iv. 
(  >iii  1-  iliu-  I  I  iMi.i  III  inriii  ;i  \i  r\  [n  i  ii  <  i  iiir,i  ni  iln'  .im- 
|m  ,11  ;iiiri'  I  :  I  ,  ::  iiji'  HI  ,n  n:|i  -  lirlnir  ilir  iiu  i  iilmn  I'l  ■.mi 
|,.  iv\ .  !i-r.  aii'i  I  •'  I  ill-  '11'  I'i'  1 II  ;ii  I  i  il  war  vv  'iirli  li  is  ri-iiliti| 
li'i.a  ■'.  la  -iiai"  in- M  h'-- .  (In'  aniMar  i-  -n  riiii|.li'Ii 
i!mI  il  iM\i;-i\il\  i;,.  il  111  ii|i'  |iir-.Ml.  i\i':i  llif  liii. 
liaa  ;-.  .1!;'!  i-,ii-  :  tin-  \  i  r->  !i  ^  ii-  aif  l.iiiai:-':!''  i  ~ii  ■  I.  .iinl 
t!;'-  \s  ill  i|i-  :;;,!  1  'aIii  :  ill  -  a  in  !  ,!i  i  i.I  -iiri.|ii'  i 'i  iiu'  -  I  nii  ill  ■  - 
til  i  lU.  li  i^  I  a-\  III  cniiri  ;  M-  liiai  ilia  in  i_Iil  i!a\  .  aii 
a  II 1 1',  till-  I  I  jiiii  i;  1'  I  i  ma -t  lia\  I'  111  ;' !•  i  \i'r\  -jiliaiiiij  a;i- 
[.'  iiaiaa  .  Iw/.  i,.  .^  |  i|,  i  i  '  ,  ,  ,  ,  i!\  .  !,al  iiu  li<  ■!  -•  -  Ii"  ■  \vii  c 
<-|a  1  Ml  a:  <  ■  i.  .  I  ip-  i  i  ml  ii'  ■!  Ii.  a-i  -  ,  i;  ■  liiali  \  w  <  \f  \:<A. 
a  '  i  !i.''  I".  I  a  a  ■!  -■  ij- la  i-  u  ;  •■  r.  i\  i  i  •  .  I  .  lal  \  I  a  1 1  ,a  i .  I  'r- 
■  a  a  ar  '\  a-  \  i  i-\  |  ii'  >; .'  ;  I ',  i  a- i  a-h  i  •  ■  u  1  a  i  iIp'  na.  i  .' ,  .i 
I-  a'aii;;  iii'iaa'-;  il  ai.I  nhls  i|-f|i  .-  !iit  lia  !v_i  i  ■  ■•  - . 
l'i^--:'i';.  a  ina-Ml  ii.li  iai_:il  (.ii'i'i'  |,|.  i-inia-t  lial-  .a 
il.  ail  ana  Ji  ;t   \',  u'  la  ii  >i-l  a  -w  .a  li  .a    .'  -p.  .aa 

III"   iaii-!   -pli  aa;  !     i\    till'    -iia>    nl    ai  iii.  i  a     i-    lii''     ,■,     - 
-I  ■  :■    '    !'>    ll-'  I  i:\    -I     I   •niii.ai    in    (    l:ai;.  -    I.   \,  '.■  u    V   i.a' 
":   ^'^    'a  -.       Il  iv    a  .li-a,    i    ai  I  I.    laLai   \\\\\\       ■'  L    p  ;    >  .  a 
a      I  I    ■       .:.f     '     ■  ,■  -.        lai!.  .  ,i  llir  vail-   ..:   ii,..-(  !■■ 
a:  ■■   la     n-  m    i    --   i  a  i,  a  i  n  la  '  '  I    w  il  I ;      -1   a   i    ■  ■  ■  ,  'I    1  a    '       l    l  ai 
'    '    :.     ''I'  aa  n  11   :  il   ■-   .]i||a     p'  :    a.  Ma        '    ,:     al    la    I    i!-.\  aia 

^    I  ■        '    ,  alMil'  !u     .  ,  ■       ■ 


.i84  A    JOURNAL    OP    TBAVELR    IN 

sacred  deposit  of  the  crowns,  sceptres,  diadems,  jewels, 
and  plate  of  the  ancient  and  modern  kings  of  England  ; 
Jt  is  contained  in  a  stron;^  stone  room,  which  appeared  to 
have  no  windows,  for  tlic  reg'ulia  were  ex'.jibited  by  candle 
light,  by  an  old  woman,  who  presented  the  articles  to  our 
view  witho'it  penriitting  ns  to  touch  them,  she  remaining 
within  t;ie  grate  auil  we  without.  This  was  indeed  a 
sphrudifl  display,  fcir  most  of  the  articles  are  of  gold,  in 
wh.ich  nr^'  set  precio\is  stones  of  the  greatest  beauty  and 
value.  Tiie  preciou--  stones,  as  they  are  commonly  seen 
in  cai;inets  of  mineralogy,  and  even  in  the  shops  of  the 
jewellers,  certa.inly  do  uot  equal  the  expectations  which 
we  have  been  acf-tistomed  In  enterta.in  concerning  them, 
:-iP.d  the  reasoi!  is,  that  in  sue!)  i)laees.  wc  usual]}'  find  only 
nuddling  or  ijiferior  spec-mens,  and  of  a  small  size,  bc- 
.  ause  the  iinest  «pecinic'.i&  are  too  costly  to  be  owned  by 
any  but  nobles  and  prince-,  llut  here,  my  expectations 
were  fuilv  answered.  The  imperial  crown  is  kept  in  this 
room.  The  pari:  whi.  b.  immediately  covers  tj;e  head,  is 
a  purple  .livet  cap,  lined  with  v>  hiie  taffety,  and  turned 
i![)  Vi'ltii  rows  of  ermine.  The  rro\\n  itsi  If  is  of  geld,  and 
ricii!}^  ^M^J■r^^iy[  wilh  pi';ul;-,  emeralds,  s;!:i[>hires,  i-ubies, 
and  diuP.ion'!-.  {;  i  ■,  u:cd  at  coronation  ceremonies,  and 
lias  been  p'iacf\J  <■•!  ;'h>  ti<r;ds  of  the  kings  of  j'higland 
>uecessive!v  fur  i^crc  ih^U:  S(>v:n  luuHh-eii  yars.  Hcsldc 
tills  th.eie  are  three  'jt!i(;r  ciown^-.  one  of  which  is  the 
crovvn  Cm"  -laie, .  worn  by  in-'  ki;tg  in  iku!Jam<Mit.  Ft  has 
uu  '•niri':\!.i  ui'^even  i:u;li':s  circiiu^f  rence.  besides  a  ruby 
and  i,  p<  :;;1  o;  vrrv  (jrer-.t  beantv.  Another  crown  is  used 
VIS  a  nif  io.  liio  to  t[!e  f'rince  of  Wale-  :  it  is  placed  before 
him  when  he  i.-  in  I\.rli;>.!iietii.  tliat  Ik  .may  be  remindeci 
of  hi"'  lu'/h  oesuuN'.  and  at  tiio  sa'uf  time  ^wav  !)e  admon- 


I    NT.  \\;),     1!'  Ill    \  M)      \M)     ^t  •!  1  I    \\i( 


4>liiii  till!  li'-  i>  ^till  ;i  -lil.i.ci.  Til.  i,'  i.  .:',,.  (^)ii..ii 
\|,ii  \  \  (Ti  'W  II,  HI  ulc-iii,  ul"'"'.  'liiit  ^11  j  .;i  (  ,  I  ii>  I  •■  i-«  ,1 
'_'"M<-ii  l1"I>''.  \\  lii(  li  i^  n^i  il  .il  (•••ruiiaiMHi-  :    iln    ]-.\\i-:  i'ii|.'> 

it    ill     111-    rijill     ImII.I     litli'p'     il-'     Is   i'|-(i\\  l|f,i.     ;u!l      .illi-l    III.' 

ci.iwii  Is  |i!.ici'l  iijd'ii  l'i>  In, 111,  lir  III', 11^  ii  iij  lii>  li  ; 
li.iiul.  .ti:ii  liM-  ^''i  I'll''  111  lii^  li'jlit.  I  Ills  :luli.-  ■■  i>  .ill'. 1,1 
>i\  iiwln  N  in  .!i  mil  \>v.  i-.|-iil  wiili  jkmiI  .imi  ni'i;  iiiii  i:>  i 
\silli  |ir'('!'i'i>  nJiiik-.  (  >ii  ilii-  i,i|i  i>  ;iii  ;iiiii;li\vl  III  .1 
\  ii.l-  t  I  I  i!i  ii|-,  ill  ill  i_i;i  .I'l  nil  11  .till I  an  1m ll.  ^1  I  iijii  •!!  .1 
II  ii~~  I'l  'ji  'I'l.  .111.1  I'l'ii.iuK  iiti"l  w  nil  iii.niiiMiiN.  |ii  ai  U.  \i-. 
I  III-  \sli"l'-  !iiil  .111  !  rilM  i>  1  |i\i  II  iin  !|.-^  i.:..li.'"  I'ii.  n- 
.!it— .I'MT.il  -c.  I'll  I  >  — Iwii  v'.l\r|-  imit^  I'll  rhi  i>!i  I'iii:'-.  ,i 
'_'i'l'l  -.i!l-ri  :l  ir  I.I  -I  ilf.  ,1  >\\  iM,|  i.|  nil  ll  \  .  irit,'i><:if  n  ■,',' ,,l . 
wIikIi  In  r,irii"i|  ht-lnri'  tin-  k:ii^  .ii  r.  n  i  in.il  ii  mi~.  in  !\\,-i  ;i 
till-  iwii  >uii!.U  III  |.iMi:i-  Niiiiilii.il  .f!:.|  Iiinpi  i.il.  .-I,:,!  .1 
I'Hlf   III    'Ji'l'li-ll    -[111!  ~   all'!    hi  ,11  I  !■■!  -   .ij    \  ri\    '^li  ill    .ilil  i ;  1. 1  i  i  \  , 

-ill  1  u  111  II  -It  (I  ll  I  inaih  iii>.  1  ill  _i'Miii  1  •._ii  1^  a  a  ii.!>  ; 
'■-Imj  ii!i|i  rl.  It  I  Mill  liiiN  lllr  i|.pi\  111!.  II-.  ij  1.1  ,iiiM;ii!  lir 
•^..._N    iii'l    (|.ii'i  11-  I'l    l.n.lii.J.      'I'l,.'   liii ' ;  1-  li.'l!. 'W --ill. 

I'll  i-  illlliiiliir.'.l  ii\  ~i  lr\'.  lllj  ■■'i  ill"  111  I  k,  .111,1  ill.  I'lMl.iM. 
■aIimi     111-    [HI  till  l.iN   llii'   rri  1  I  1,   11'.    i.I     .iiii.i.Hir.'j.    ji...ii-tii 

•111    .■!!!    1.1    ill'      111   ..'x    III    I'll-    lllI  '!    il'l.i    .1    -I'liiMI    -  ll'iii'i. 

\  111'   slail'    1.1     [..Iw  ,i|.|   tin-    r,   .;■.  --.i  .    ..in      ,.(    t!,,     ,^  i  \.. 
!n1i..  ^.  I'N  ,1   Iiiii    iiMiii,r.  il  1 1|  aiil  :i|iii!  \  .       I '   is  m.  ai-  t'l  la  i.  > 
.ill,  I  a   li.ili   led   1.  ii.'j.    ,1 II,  I   iir.ii  1  .    I,  nil     lariii  >   'a  r:i  ■  i '  i;. ,.  i  - 
'  nil'.        It    Is  ,,!    |i.  .Ml  'I    .I  I'l.        'liii-    •-   li-i'   '    I.I    ■  ::■     .  i  !.  a..i- 
iiy  I  ll    r.ir.  mi.iI  n  .ii.    I.i-ai'j  (  ai  i  a    I    iii  i  ii'        ,  ii    h,  ;.  a  i 

illi'    1-ilij.        ill  >iii.--   ll;.-,-    ..ni.  I.  -.    li..  I.-     !~    111    \\\\  ,,!;i,  .■   ,1 
■.1'  .11   i!.    i!  ,i;   laii  ii.ii-  a,  III' I  111'   J.  I  1 1.-.  ,11.  1  .,il   I  In    la  ,,\mi   ;.  \\  . 
■  '-  u  i.ni  li\    I'n     1.  .\  ,il    !ai!i:l\    i  ai  i  ui  • ..  ,.tii 'ii    i  i.i  \  -.       1 1 
-  -I'l    'M  ll    lii.'x.'    d'a  ll  -  au'  U"itii    li"ii!  '  i_!r  II,    ii'M  11'  ,' 


ISO  A    JOURNAL    OF    TRAVKLS    IN 

ions  of  dollars,  independently  of  several  particular  jewei;^ 
whose  value  is  very  sreat. 

It  is  not  easy  p<  riii'ps  to  form  a  correct  idea  of  the 
a])pearance  of  the  reir;dia,  without  seeing  them,  but  when 
it  is  considered  that  the  gems  are  set  in  gold,  not  of  the 
pale  colour  of  the  trinkets  of  the  jewellers,  which  are  half 
copper,  but  of  the  deep  yellow  hue  which  is  characteristic 
of  gold,  it  will  easily  be  conceived  that  the  resplendent 
white  of  the  pearl,  the  fnic  blue  of  the  sapphire,  the  beau- 
tiful grass  green  of  the  emerald,  the  rich  yellow  of  the 
topaz,  the  det-p  red  of  ihc  ruby,  and  above  all  the  clear 
transpan^ncy  and  mn'ivalled  sple.uior  of  the  (hamond,  must 
afford  ail  exhihitiun  of  magnificence  and  beauty  not  to  be 
sar|ta,:s((l  by  any  ()l)ject  of  nature  or  art. 

Sinrc  (!;(.  fctnio.is  atfiMiipt  of  C()lon(>l  f'lood,  to  carry  off 
tl'.e  iiijicrial  crown  in  tlie  reign  of  king  Charles  II.  in 
whi'  h  altcriipt  he  wv,.^  frustrated  by  the  courage  and  ac- 
ti\  ity  of  Mr.  [•'.(hvards.  keeper  of  the  regalia,  a  very  old 
but  intrepid  man,  1  believe  the  crowns  and  other  articles 
of  the  regalia  wliirh  are  occasionally  wanted  at  Westmin- 
ster, are  carried  thither  privately,  in  a  common  hackney 
coacli,  wlllui'il  any  parade,  or  any  circumstance  whatever 
whleli  may  serve  to  distinguish  the  transaction.  The  king 
and  prince  of  V»  ales  array  themselves  in  the  pahice  of 
W'hifchail  before  ])roceeding  to  the  j)arliament  house,  and 
when  they  return,  the  crowns  are  carried  back  to  the  tow- 
er in  the  same  prisate  manner  as  they  were  brought  thith- 
er, tlic  distance  is  ai)out  three  miles. 

'I  111'  mint,  which,  with  the  houses  lor  its  officers,  oc- 
ciipit  s  one  third  nf  i];o.  t!\vi\  \v«^  ',ver<^  not  permitted  to 
set'. 


\M).  It'll  [.\ST)  A\n  -. '/ri  \\.) 


\  u\\  w'.ii  \'.i.,iil.'r  [)nii,i|)>  ili.it  I  h.iM'  ,,ii.|  ih.iiiiiii:  (ii 
tiM-  w  li'i  li'  a^t  >.  I  CM'.  Iidiii  niir  iiil.i:i<\ ,  in    \in,  i  i,  ,i  w,   lirai 

-.1    il,;i     il    «i|    thf    !lllll•^   <'ii||!llic.|     III    III,'    I.i\\.   ;      lli;il    \\i     n>  \i-i 

tin;!!,  (■;  it  \\illi(i;it  ll;i>  a  -■iri.itioii.  \\  ,  lii.l  i\,,{  jiasx 
till  hi  ii\.'r.  1  In  \  art'  (amliiiril  111  ilni.  ill  111  iijM'M  \aiil  : 
an  iiiia':i  III  a  ii,.|i  i^  hm  i  tin-  ciitiaini  .  .mi:!  a  lull  i  mIN 
til--  k<'>;i'i'.  'I  1:>'  ilnw  ;ii.'  t'nrni--lic'i|  w'nli  -;;,,n'  ir,,n 
jratiuL^:  tin  \'  aif  >jiaci.iu-  ami  c|iap.l\:  laiiiiliiii^  di- 
.  .'i''i   ill!"  !u  "  ajiai  Iimail-.  i  liif  In  iP  .itli.  in  w  liirli  tiic  .ini- 

n^ll^  ^I'ljl  i!  r'.i'jil!.  I;:  tlh'  I'llli'l  nl.'.\r.  vs'i^ic  tin  \  Ic- 
ni.illl  (Inrillj  ill'-  (i  l\  .  'I'll!'  li.MMv  ,;rr  ■_•.;.■  l.i!i\  lMi|lii\. 
ipitu  illi^tandni'.'  lin-ir  ronliai  np  iit.  a'l.i  a].|ii  ir  im'ir  artivo 
ami  liNiK    li;  in  mp    w    ii!' I  i  \|  ,i  c  t  to  'la.;  lia  in. 

I  ill'  jiriipi|)ii  anniiaU  uhif'i  v\i'  -- i\\  w.ir  Ipmh  aipl 
rpMii  -VI  s.  liMji.i!  'In.  pan!  Ira  V  w  ■■  i  v.  In  ai>.  w  ulv  i  -.  Ii\  i  na-, 
ami  I  a  c.  II  111  V.  I  iii  i  c  w,  a-  a  \s  liili-  |  r  ilai  In  ii  i  a  a-tn'.iivii- 
ill-j  >i/'  .  ai|i|  iiii;aiiii  aliji-  |ii"i;!\.  \\  Ip  n  lia-  Kiijir. 
]Miiiit-il  a  vtirk  al  iiiin.  ip  ll'W  .a  iln  liii-  willi  laci  iii  ilili" 
firn  ripw.  i.isi-  n|iiiii  liiN  liiipi  li  •:-  I'll  tin-  tii  n-  an  |ii||\  . 
ami  tiiii'W  (i|ii  11  ^aili  a  iiphiiIi  a^  iiupIi'  iiic  -IniiLp  r.  lie 
lia'l\Pi\  laiL'i' aip|  -;ii  HP/  ti'  ill.  amiiiip.'lit  lia\p  •'iiiliiar- 
r  \  tip-  IkhIs  n!  ,1  ini'i.lii'  -i,"  ,|  man  w  nil  111  in-  Ian.' v.  .\ 
lii'antiiiiMilaik  li'ijiai  ai  ~>  alt!  p  till    iii\     parliriilar    att<  i:- 

t;.,|..         IIi-l      toilll    \va>     I   \i  I  r,!nP_!\      ijilpali'     alpi     li'l'.ial. 

aipi  all:pHp;li  !il  h'!-..  in  a  -ian  u  i-  .hv|iip'ii,s';;i  .\  \i\,  -jii.t- 
,,!  a  Mill  :|i  I  |ii  I-  Ilia  I  k.  ^lii'  \'  av  limn  ;ia  in.'.-t  la  \l,,la- 
iiai  .  >iMiii  iif  t'lp-  ainniiU  \\  i  1 1  \<i\  iinn'.  |  lai  t  n  al.n  i  \  a 
;;  M  (\  .a  uhaii  i.al  la  m;  i  nti  a  an  intni:  '.If  Iri.aplvinii 
w  liii  a   IimIi'  ilii'j. 

'Ill,  IP  w  '>  ipp  i^i.i  li'in  \',i;.'-i-  lipap'  \\  a^  (nil  '/l""i' 
;;•  V  a  :  i;ii  i|-  ■  I'a  v^  a-  ii  .1  .  in  i|i  ~'  ii'.  Iiat .  it  i-  a  la  niai  iv.i'  '.• 
•4  ■'  t'aal  l\Mi  ip.iiiwcs  wlurii   Will'   w  Iplpi'il    in  lb'    ^  a.M   ■ 


IS'6  A  joi;r\al  of  travels  in 

are  the  tiercest  animals  there,  while  most  of  the  lions  whicii 
were  taken  wild  are  quite  tnme. 

The  most  beautiful  and  at  the  same  time  majestic  ani- 
mal which  we  saw,  was  the  royal  tyger  of  Bengal.  His 
skin  is  sui)erhly  vmiegated,  with  yellow  and  black,  and 
his  form  is  more  graceful  and  majestic,  and  better  ackipted 
to  strength  and  activity  than  that  of  the  lion.  The  palm, 
I  am  sensible,  has  been  usually,  but  1  think  unjustly,  given 
to  the  lion. 

Perhaps  it  is  not  easy  to  say  why  a  menagerie  should 
be  considered  as  an  indis];ensable  appendage  ot  royalty. 
One  can  discern,  it  is  tru'',  a  kind  of  allegorical  allusion 
to  dominion,  in  tlie  character  of  the  monarch  of  the  forest, 
but  it  will  not  do  to  follow  up  the  similitude,  lor  here  he 
is  ingloriously  ciia^ed,  d(\privett  of  all  liberty,  as  well  as 
dominion,  and  even  exiiibitf  d  as  a  sliow  ;  a  miserable 
plight  for  a  monarch.  Still  less  can  one  see  why  inferior 
animals,  distinguished  only  for  ferocity,  cunnina'  or  ludi- 
crous teats,  should  be  included  in  the  catalogue,  for,  till 
lately,  even  a  number  of  monkeys,  those  disgustine  cari- 
catin-es  of  the  liuman  form,  were  kept  in  the  yarti,  and  sut- 
fered  to  so  at  larjre,  till  they  were  lemoved  by  his  majcs- 
(V's  command,  one  of  them  liavini);  attacked  and  lacerated 
a  boy.  Such  collections  are  liowever  so  gratifyiuir  to  cu- 
riosity, and  so  instructive  to  those  who  study  natural  his- 
tory, tliat  every  one  nntsi  approve  of  the  prac  tice  of  form- 
lUiX  lh<'m. 

On  !eavii)(T  the  tower,  one  of  us  was  required  to  write 
/lis  name  asid  ad(h-ess  in  a  bo.>k,  for  the  obvious  reivson  of 
creating  a  responsibilitv  in  case  any  thing  sliould  be  mis- 
~inL^ 


KNi.l.  \Sl),    IIDI.I.  \M)     AM)    -ruIl.ANU. 


INl   IIM.N  1 


l.Vf-   -il'.cr    i   .lMi\('i|    ill     Ldllii..!!.     I    Ii;i\r   In  ill   <H-,-;)i,ii',l 

iii'Mi'  Ml  1.^^.  liMiii  (Its  I"  il.i\.  in  (i«  li\i  rill-  ni\  i.  iiiiiiiMpj- 
li'iliisdl  iui;-' .iiiirt:i,.i.  .imi  in  i  cii  i\  iii'_'  aini  in.iwnij  tin' 
»■    !i-^' (|in  !it    cil!-.       I)<t,iil-    dl'  till-    km  I    (.11111  'I    i)c    \<\\ 

LMM!:!;  Ill'i  to  Vi.'l,  1  tilf  I'l)!!'  |i,tNs  lii(  ;ii  lijlnh,  iiVtl-.  ic- 
^'i'.'ij  !;.'•  in'Kliwii  tii  ;|ii\  iii(i'i('^l  hi"  (!)  I'MiNlaiiccs 
\\lii';.  Iili".  l;i,i\  ji>cij',(('  |ni  tlh-  |icii'il  wlhil  llics  -li.ill 
H'''"  II.  Ill  i'-hv''!  !ii_;  I  jiiirtK'il'.li  IcIIi  1  (il  in!  IihIii,  !iii:i  [n- 
il'iv  ■  .u  I '.I  1  ,iii_  lIIi  <  I  reel  I,  a  \  il!  rjr  in  Iii^'  \  i'  iiiil  \  dl  I  .mi- 
ili  II.  "11  till-  \"iih  Af-t,  I  Mii-t  with  a  lilil''  •Mili.iri  .i-s- 
in'  '.;.  I  li  I'l  I  .111  .i!l  liic  \s.i\,  111(11'"  lliaii  two  in.K  --.  dii 
[I'HjMi.c.  an.!  V,  \^  i''i!\  ailniitti-ij  li\  ilic  |iMii.r.  w'l.ii  In  ' 
(111  putliiij  in\  li  nil)  ill!"  un  |iii(  l,ci.  I  I  oi.ll  iiiii  IiimI  any 
Icn.'i'.  It  \s,;-  111  N.iin  ilril  I  >  xainiur  1  cMts  p. Ml  ol  iiiv 
(li(N^.  II,,  l,;i,',   \s  :-.  Ill  I).'  I. .Mini.       'rin-ic  I  w.i^.  ill  lln-  li.ill 

'  ,1  'jii  at  iiMiTs  li.iii^c,  while  ihc  [Mirli  1'  si 1  vv.iiiiir_'  iii_\ 

I  i.iiiin Is.  ami    I  li.nl  ii'in.     in  nl!.  |-.        I  n  ""    m  ^^  a  -  iiii- 

(M.s-ilili  .  laii  Id  Hire, it  \v,in  iidi  .a^s.  lail  I  |i  II  iii\  canl 
111.!  ail  ,ipi  i'.i  _'\  .  willi  iIk  siiAaiit.  aial  in, hi'  I'l''  li'-t  "I 
ni\  \\  i\  lidiiii'.  1  i-ji'  iiiirj  lliat  i.ii|i'a  Ii'ctidn  "I  oar  iialai  ■>_. 
\Uhi!i.  \siii'''  \\c  .1  (■  Ileal  da  aci  d,i!ii|i-.:iia"  an  mi'i '"-I  iiu 
d!i|i  i|.  -ail'  1  -    II-  t"    idiL' I    llic   11' . ''--ar\    ri' an  -  nI  .iM.iai- 

ir;    it. 

<  >ii  llf  I  .i.i'i  1,1  I'.ii.iin^idii.  i  I  \  ji  r  II  k  (  II!,'  Ill  ni\  w  .i\ 
■.a.j  I  -tdj  ,jii-,  1  I  lew  111.  iiiieiil-.  Id  .-,  ;ii'  \  dlai; 'I  <  r  i  ■  _:;aicat  ^ 
anil  \^  I V  |;,i-sin^'  innl'i  ii  \  p  \\  .  I  -iidM!.|  iin.i'jiiif* 
'I'll-  w  11  ,■  ,i'),,ai  I\v  d  ill,, avail  1  na":  lli'.liN  \v,i-  liin', 
tlnai  a:  in-  '  lill'  i'<  'i  la  ill'-  -Mil.  iir  :  I  li>  ai-  w  la  i!,  ,i  jij  m  ,n  aiiC' 
\s.i-  -I'l'ii' la  I .  'Ill'-'  .'I,-  .1  j.i:l  dl  ill.'  Ill'  II  ulid  ai*" 
[il'  a.cfl  ;  1  in   '  i  N.ri'  iIcim  >•.      r-  •  •]■  [  ■■  ja  i\   ,'.!':  i\  '• 


j(jO  A  .lornxAi.  ov  travkls  in 

MtiJ/  26,  Sunday. — Xol  having  as  yet  formed  an  ac- 
quaintance with  any  one,  by  wliose  means  I  might  be  con- 
(hicted  to  church,  I  went  alone,  at  the  hour  of  morning 
service,  to  St.  Margaret's  Chapel.  Beinij  aware  that 
London  ('lunches  are  not  famous  for  civility  to  stiangers, 
I  entered  with  asi.vjjf^ncc  iii  my  hand,  intenthiig  to  L^ive  it 
to  the  door  i^fepf.'r  to  p.ocure  me  a  seat  sliould  noiii.'  b(! 
offered.  I  could  hud  no  attendant,  and  .stood  for  some 
time  in  the  alley,  lookinir  for  some  one  to  off(M'  me  a  seal 
in  one  of  the  numerous  pews  which  were  eitlier  jtarlidly 
or  w  holly  eiaj)ty  ;  numbers  saw  me,  but  no  one  troubled 
himscll' a!)()Ut  the  strauLi'i^r.  aad  after  standinii'  among  tin,' 
fowt.iu'n  and  ser\ants,  till  \  was  tired.  I  withdrew.  At 
O.vforfl  I  was  siiuilarly  situated,  and  finally  went  and  sat, 
throii'_''h  the  service,  amo'itr  the  servan's  under  the  palpil. 
The  pews,  at  lea<t  in  Loiid-):i,  are  generally  locked  wlicn 
unoccupied,  so  that  a  btranir'i-  cannot  intrude,  il'h(>  would. 
I  attemptfd  to  obtain  a  scat  at  tuiothei-  churcdi  this  morn- 
ing, but  with  no  b"tter  success.  I  fell  in  with  a  regiment 
of  soldiers  marchiiiL^  ont  of  the  park,  fidly  e(|iiip[)ed  and 
drcssef!,  and  with  martial  music.  Indeed  tliis  seeins  to  be 
a  fa\ourile  day  tor  military  exercise  ;  for,  wherever  I  have 
!je<!n  (U!  this  day  iii  England,  I  have  not  failed  to  see  mili- 
tary s]K;ctacl.\-.. 

A  lio-inrvL. 

M'lii  ZJ. — Tliere  are  a  nuiub(  r  of  tine  hosjfiial  estab- 
ii~luii('i'it-  in  London.  a!id  although  tlicy  ;;ri-  !ni',■^<■^lini  prin- 
cijj-i'Iy  lo  i;icdc;il  le.en.  !  sliidi  (i''<ii^i<n;aily  vi>it  them, 
amoii'i'  til!'  -.iirio;;--  of.jects  of  mlerest  and  curi'isitv  \s-;iicii 


I   N    :l    \  \|'.     II    'M,  \  Ni<     \\:) 


!■'.' 


I  \l.i\r  I).  I'll  lli:>  Illiirnilr'  t"  o::  III  til''  lill'lo!  1)  -- 
|mI,iN  iiliii"  I  i!h  ;[,i-|i';c  it  n  ,.|  ;i  |.).\  ^k  :,i;!.  <  •  ■  n  ,i!  ii..ti'. 
I.  .l!i    ,.1     Ivi:!,-  ..i:.i   .1! 1.         I  i .1'   I:'.    <  '  -  .     \    -..,'a 

\  I'l  \  |Ki  1 1  'I  !  iif   i'>i.ili!i-liiii'  11:    w  .111  li  !i  '■■i  I  \  ■  ' ,    1   till  11  i, 

1  ri.,.  i;I\    iiil,  I  im  .    t.i    i!m      1  .'-,.iI.iN    ..;     !'i.,l,i.|i  ijiii  1     .n;-! 
N'  ,\-N  ..i!,,   i>Mili    ill    I  \:,']<i    i'(    ,11  r,  iiiiiiiiM|;itl,  r-,.    .mm!    in 

liil'iH'-s        Dr.    \\.i-~    -  '  ji'il'ir   ,1-  I'l  n  i|'ii  •-1  i.n' 

\\,''U    Jiniiiiii     wiiii    i;i;ii    I"    li'   :i'    !;>    |  .|  is,-|  1  j  M  i. -n-. . — 
.   'I'll      :!)( .   \',  i^'-  .I'lii  ]!!•  '■  !■  1      (  1  (  :,'■-!    llii'\  w  cii? 
.;,;■■   M]'    ,'\j, .■,-;,  >■„■,',     I  ■!.  i,t.   ;m:J   -'.:!!.  !mii   i1,.'V 
lii'U    f,i;.ri    'I'.l  lirii  iii^,-,.[  \  .       1 1'    i!i,-   I  "r.  |ii,-- 
■      ,|.    ,,    i'.    ,   I.    I  !.  !t  ,n-M   I.-.       W  !,^.^:„■,| 
.ii'>..  !     |.'     l':'-   !l-'  vi     1;  1'  -'■.      ••  w  ;i\    i->   II'  1 
M ;  I  ■■.  1  ■  i  .  —    !  1 , 1  ■   1 1 ; .  1 1 1  1 1 . 1 '  i   ;  I : .  '  ■  I  1 1 . ; !  ■  \  .  ■  ;  ■ .  1 . 1 1  - 
nl .         •■!'.■■■  i:m'  -ii-  !..■    (!o!  -   ih  ii   I  ;i'  ..-,    t,i   ii.iv  r  i;.'"  — 
•.   ^'    N        .    :    .    '        ..■     ■;:.    !;.■,,.!    ^;:   :V.     '    ,//•,/    'I  ■'/■!,/ ^- .i  ..■  \      1 
i',1       I     c'li'^   il        H      i      -I  .■    \  lill    .,'.(.'!•    I.  I- 
,   '.  ;  I  ''.^  .    v\  1; ;,.   !|l    \  '<  [.    ii'M   ■  .  '      .     I    W  .'.\     li:i\  '■     \  ■  !|1    I  -.1 

I  i  i  i    ji:  1--1  :i'  "'I  ■     '  ,\    |.  i|-  I  li''  j  M  I,  ,| .   ;in,| 

;'|.'    _(     ^:i-   wi     (    I.,:!'!!-  •     :i!   .,'.■     i-MiiM    il.i    'ii-lM  <■   |M     l!l''    111;- 
'1  1  !:,!_    I  M  I  I  .;:;'     ■  '  \    w  1 1 . 1    w  ' ; :  r  I )   1 1 1 1  -i  •    |  m  ,  ii    ~  1 1 ;  i  i  ■  i  -   \w  i  » 

i-iH.,.  I  ,1.     r;.    I M.  \'.  I-  -  ii- -i  .It  .1  ;.ii  If,  Ml  ,1  i.ii  •' 

nil'.  \\  :i  li  ;  II'    ':■'■-■    ■  :  ■  :  :.i  i  .m  \  in  ;ii!i  i;  i.'iifi  .       I  !,'■!'  '^i 
vi  ■     ' '!  'in-.i.     '  1  ;      ■'      ii'  !;.  i  in!   nv|i    I'l '>  1  i  n  .  .i  i  1 1  .\v  i  i  •  i    mi- 
nimi' I     ii;.in\    \'  t\.-    <<'.    •]<  <  I'pil    'Ir 
.m.:      .-.  ..      .       ']  :.■     !);.  .n!!,,!  :'.,  !„    1-  !:  111.    .  :  .'    ii;,    nn,n 

.    ■    .•.   ill.     I.,II.  1.    I     ,,.,    1,'  1-1. . I, .'..I  (..uM 


192  A   JOURNAL    0?   TRAVELS   TN 

hardly  have  been  heard  at  all :  for  the  miserable  spcakei 
had  scarcely  begun,  (with  that  nunnteness  and  fidelity, 
which  all  observe,  wlicn  their  bodily  sufferings  are  the  sub- 
ject of  narration)  to  relate  his  complaints,  when  the  Dr. 
sometimes  inspecting  tiie  tongue  and  feeling  the  pulse, 
and  sometimes  not,  would  cut  them  short  with  a  prescrip- 
tion, and  the  apothecary  received  the  irrevocable  mandate 
to  sweat  or  vomit,  bleed  or  blister,  starve  or  stimulate  as 
the  case  might  be,  and  it  was  in  vain,  that  the  pati(>nt 
sometimes  protested  against  the  treatment,  as  not  adapted 
to  his  case,  because  he  could  not  bear  it,  or  the  Dr.  had 
not  understood  hirr.;  tlie  remonstrance  was  ended  by  a 
loud  call  for  '•  the  next,"  and  thus,  in  half  an  hour,  a  score 
or  two  of  people  were  d  mc  up,  aiid  the  Dr.  hastened  to 
his  coach  to  perform  the  tour  of  London,  and  prescribe 
for  patients  of  a  highei  order. 

I  do  not  say  that  he  did  not  do  all  that  the  case  admitted 
of;  his  dispatch  was  truly  admirable,  and  with  such  rapid 
firing,  no  doubt  he  must  sometimes  have  hit  the  mark, 
but,  wiio,  putting  it  to  his  own  case,  would  not  prefer  the 
kind  considerate  prescription  of  any  experienced  person, 
even  an  old  i^ovum,  if  you  please,  to  such  giddy  haste, 
however  scientiiic  and  h-arned. 

MISSIONARY   SOCIETY. 

It  is  not  niai'.y  years  since  a  missionary  society  was 
formed  in  London,  for  the  conversion  of  the  lieatlien  to 
chiistianity.  Amid  the  confusion  and  distractions  of 
w;u-  a-id  i)oIitics,  and  the  eiigagements  of  conu/ierce  and 
business  ami  j)h'asure,  there  are  men  in  this  hurrii'd  cii])ila], 
who  find  time  to  tliink  of  the  lieathen,  and  are  willing  for 
their  good  to  contribute  both  of  their  time  and  nioiiey. — 


■riirou-ii  ti:-   kill. !:!.->  if  M'.   II.  r;       '  •  .    i 

\\\]^    ,i;:i   1  ;>.  im;i    ill     -;i,-Ii    a    (  11  iV   .  [l      •;   . '  ^     c.  ., 

i!ii'Tior>  iii  liir  iiii-Nii'iiiifv    ~ii(  .'  t\   b.'!      :i':  :        re 
l\v  •■:ir\  ,    a^Nf  iii!)l.  i!    at    '  li .    !  iai  ■<    ■  •  , ;,  uni 

.■m!iia'-ia'i    1/  all    rl,  r.ral    ai:;!    \.:\    ;;a  .;.   aa-l    ,::a.i  '.a  ai 

ail  II  w  iiav  iiaaii  >  ail'  will  Lin  iw  ,i  lai  i  ,!•  w  i->l' a  ii  -ali'  u: 
t'i,-  \'\  i:;lir.  'I'lirii-  li'xai-s'aiii,  w  .  ii-  i  aial'  <1  I'a.  I'lar.  .'i- 
-,,;'aia-\\  i^' .    aa:  1  wilii  \ia'\    liul!'  li  nana!:' '.-.    ;  iliii.ajii  \\;;ii 

;i.,.  '.  'i  iairaal.  'I'l.l  \\,ls  -.•a'snl  t>  :i:a  ■.; '  iill'aiitn  in 
'  -.  'I  "a  A'  \VVf  lire  I  aa  i  \\  isll  i'a''  ■:,;!(■  (-f  lla  'a 
ai';--!.  a-  ill  ;:i'  >i'a!ii  ^r,L  ai:  i  !'  a  I'll-  I  -laiiN,  aiiii  1  I'.  -1'  a- 
■  ■  1  inr  ;\\  11  or  liii  I  '■  Ina!'-.  \\  ii  a  a  lii.ai  i  i<':r-  !■  n!  ial'  ii  ■  I. 
ai  r  iiiiaiM!iPM;i  'ii-,  w'la  li  a^  lln  \  \vi  ii'  chii  iis  rnaia  1'  a,- 
;ia!.  aii,l  ^nan-  nl    I'li-'ii    naiiinatu   t.aa'--^   i.I    iiii-i!    \  ['■•'.<■ 

laiia  i:'\a  I  r  aaia  it  w  i!  a  |  iT' ■  j  a  i'  I  s  ilr,  a!  'la  lam'  ai  .,:.a\\- 
arr-.    [irnliaiiU    w  ,ili  Irata .  a  ra  lanaai^  aii  ■.    -ii    IhIji'    .^1,1 

all  11  lia'  -IMa  ini!  ia  '  la''!  a  ,  • ,  i.'  a  .  1. 1  aa  i,[  1 1  ,  a  :  "  \>  ;:  ll 
a  1'    I  'a  i  a  ,  I II    iMaiai  a,  ,1  \   :     i  ''■■   .    a  :  la,  ar    !  a    ha    •.■  ai'.'a  1    ■ ! 

1.  iiii  lla'  ii  ;•  Ii_!t':i>  \'.  ''i  '.  I .  i'>  •!  -I'liir'ia'  iaia  ii!  liian.a  >  a- 
•'{■rj.  iii.ia  wit'i  a-,  an  i  lln  ir  i!'  j-i>riaii  iii,  Ir  la  I  \,,a:',> 
.  a-'a  1 1' :a  r  .■  1  i  a\  ar  i  ~  1  Ii  •-.■  ^' ,  aa  aa  >  a;  \.  !,■  an  i,a'. 
a     .    ■     '      ,  \  1  1  \    I  .  a    . ,  a     a  a  ■  I    i '  \  f  a    a !  i  i  a '  1 1  >  *  . , ,  I  a . ' 

a   i':.-    ■  ail  '  '.  I.      !  .a;  lail  ,,'Aa,''    liiai  tin  '.   ar  '  la^..  aaiM- 

la.    ,aal  n'  !i  aa:   ai  liaar  aii  m  1 1  .a.al  !  lUariN  ;ia'  v,     il  '   al 

,,    la  ill  I  a  ill'  1--  [II''  'la  '   \\'.fi  i/'i'iija,    :  'nil'  iiaiiii  J  '■  - --  \\  \'.' : 


n  .  1 '    I ■ . • '  1 1 1("  '  a  1  " 
f!  i   '  ai  r'w  ]  \    -Una. 
ai  I  1  '>  rr.:s   t!i>'  ':  n' 


194  A    JOtRXAIi    Of    TKAVKLE,    1> 

PA.NORAMA  OF  GIBRALTAR. 

There  are  few  objects  of  public  exhiijitiori,  so  spiendici 
and  interesting  as  panorama  paintings ;  it  is  jjrobable  you 
will  find  me  sometimes  among  them.  They  are  the  tri- 
umph of  perspective,  and  absolutely  put  one  in  possession 
of  the  scenes  which  tliey  repre^-ent. 

Few  scenes  conld  he  more  interesting  than  tlic  rock  of 
Gibraltar  and  the  ^Mlrronllcling  objectSj  of  which,  I  luivc 
this  day.  setn  a  panorama. 

The  stupendous  and  frowning  cliffs  themselves,  with 
parapets  and  embrasures  cutout  of  the  solid  rock;  the 
heavy  artillery  pointed  tYont  them — rising,  tier  above  tier, 
and  pecpiagout  of  every  rocky  nook  ;  the  water  batteries, 
less  formidable,  but  more  listinctly  in  view  ;  inilitary  life, 
active  and  exhibiting  its  proud  array,  upon  the  wharves 
and  promontories  ;  th.'  contiguous  coast  and  country  of 
.Spain ;  the  celebrated  strait  of  (Jibraltar  ;  the  remote 
coast  of  Africa  conslitutiiiii'  the  other  side  of  the  ancient 
[)ii!ars  of  ilcrcules;  the  vast  expanse  of  the  Medilcrr;ine- 
an,  and  the  interesting  Iiistorical  associations  of  the  v/hole 
scene,  and  e¥|)ccialiy  those  whicii  have  been  immortalized 
by  the  pencil  of  our  countryman,  Trumbull  ;*  sucli  an  as- 
semblage of  objects,  if  painted  with  competent  skill,  must 
'•urely  arrest  the  attention  of  anv  man,  who  has  the  small- 
est sensibility  to  moral  or  natural  beauty  and  grandeur, 

Siill,  there  are  those  who  view  suchthinas  with  indilfer- 
encc,  and  there  are  those,  also,  to  whom  the  beauty  and 
grandeur  ol'  hindscape  and  the  splendors  of  the  starry 
r'aiiopy  arc  displayed  in  vain. 

"  ft  is  srni'ccly  nrcfs^ary  fo  iiiiine  tliis  gentleman'?  celebrated 
jiictiu'e  of  the  'rortie  of  Uibraltai- 


/N'i.vsn.   ;n'r.i.\Nu    wd    ••••ii  \nh 


No.  \m.— LONDON. 

\'l.  Ij.!!!-  |)i-'ri'>ii;lMii  ,,r   jui.'.'-  lii.Tf Mi. Ml  olilc-    -Cm-.-  ,1    n - 

in-   li  ii''hHi--i>i  -' :'i  '  i  Ml-  iiiij    '-111    nil     tiii-ri_:iirr~     I  In  Tt-  -Iti.i!' 

,,,.-- ,,|  -mil'-  III  i'.     (,:;:i  <  i \\  i -! iiiin -li-i-   \l',r\ — ll-  ^^ 'l-niii!' y 

aii'l  jiaii'l'ur -- \r  I'.iiii'ii!-  ami  iii-ci  li'linii 1  )ili'<T>ni-i'  "[  lli>' 

UP  .1  li;  .iii'l  ti,   '  ;    .11  I::-li  — li:.i.!.ii; I'i,|,  ,.,lv  .     MiMMur ri.- 

\l»l.l.l'lll 


U"'/     ,   ■■. \'>\    111'-    iill'   t  it'll  111  nl'  ,1    i;  i.  1|.|    I    11  c,   'i\,'\    ,1  lick- 

.1    rilialin.     Ill'      t"    atli-ll.l    ih.     '!l-tli!);i!i"ll    ul'    (ui/.fs   ;it     till' 

^lH•lll■^  111'  111'-  Vililjiiii.  \t  II  (rrli.rk  I  ii|riin'.l  111  tin' 
-|iii  iniiii  .iji.M  mil  III,  ulnic  t\ti\  _\i;utlit  \  ni.ikf  a  |iii!.lit 
iii>ii  ibiiliuii  111  I  III /.I  ^  til  tliuM'  who  ha\r  ili>t!iiijui-li.  .!  ilnni- 

-rl\  r-s    11.(1-1.  ill   l!ir  CiilliN  .iI'h.m   t  ■!' t  III  ■  tl  1 1' '  i  if  U-(  III  1    ,11  I>,   !i.il 

till-  iiii.i  iiii ,'_.  111!  m;  111  w  iih  li  iln  ir  .MM-ii't\  ua^  iii>tiliiti'i!. 
'I'u.  II  1'  \\  ,11  il-  .ir«'  in  it  f.  Hill  I  nil  in  tin  t  Icjaiit  art^  dl  [laiiit- 
iiIl:  Jili'l  ^rii!|il!ii  !■,  iii;i  an-  ii  ai  hTl  r.  1  i']Mall\  lai  tin'  ill- 
\  ciiliii  «  ami  iiii|Mi  i\  1  :  ^  n!  lln  iiin^l  Iriiiiliir  niailians  ami 
ri  .1,1 1  i\  aiiiiN  Iii|-  I  i(  ilii.uia'j  llii'  iiii.^t  roiiiiaiiii  ujiri  at  a  ai.-i 
III  liir.  i  -.iv  iii-i,ii:ii-.  1  -aw  a  iii.u  liun'  ,il  llir  .\il»  Iji.'ii. 
liir  iiia!iliii_'  -ih.iiii.il.i  r^  til  -tail. I  .it  tin  ir  wm!..  i)\  \\\,]<  ii 
iiii.i'i>  till  \  i/ias'  111'  ii'i:i\iil  Iinin  tin'  ji.niiliil  ain!  ...- 
I  III  iiniN  riiiiliiii  iin  ,it    111   \\  liii  ii  till  \   ai '     iui\\    11  'III  jii  111  i|    ti 

liliii\i'i|  \iiv  la.il.'  -.i''i-,i,i(  inm  iii'iiiiii'.  \i-;t.li.|-  tin 
,i!iai  tun  lit--  Win  al|i'a';\  -n  iliimiji.i  \.'i:!i  I.i -lin  .ii.,!.;t 
[11  i;i|i-.  a:i,l  \ulii  -.!iaii_:i  l~  nl  ,ill  i.ili'x-.  hum  Tin  |>ii--iaii 
.iiii'M-^ailni  i|.i',Mi.  I  hat  .it'll  I  s;riiL"j!ai'j  ,i  Imi^'  turn-  in  iiia'%- 
111.'  ai-    w  i\    I  ;i.i  a  1  I  nu  lit  .!  |i  1-^.1-1  .  ami  :,lti  i   I  i  iinj  nun 

;a!"hi'il.   ih   ii\\  I  .  I  .lii'l    (iliv-i  ,1,  i,;i   t  \  CIA    >a;r.    ;ii|    ,'.1   ,r    M  .    1 


196  A    JOT  .nXAL    OP    TRAVTLS    IN 

found  that  I  was  still  no  nearer  to  entering  the  door  tiiau 
at  first.  I  obtained  only  a  ver}'  imperfect  view  of  the  fine 
paintings  which  adorned  the  walls,  and  witnessed  abso- 
lutely nothing  of  llie  ceremonies  of  the  day.  except  the 
pleasure  of  a  fasiiionable  scpieeze,  from  wliicli,  although  I 
had  the  honor  of  bcii-ig  shoved  by  lord  aiui  lady,  I  wa.? 
.sincerely  glad  to  make  iny  escJipe. 

I  saw  mere  boaiuif!:!  \\oineu  liere  than  I  had  seen  any 
where elce  in  F-nglaiid. 

ALIEN  OFIKX. 

Two  or  three  -days  after  my  arrival  in  London.  I  went 
to  the  alien  officv',  and  presented  the  credentials  with 
which  I  was  furnislied  aJ  f.i\erpool.  The  alien  oHice  is 
..f  recent  esta.blishnieni.  and  v.as  instituted  in  consequence 
of  the  abuse  of  the  almost  unrestrained  liberty  which  lor- 
ricners  had,  till  tlien  enjoyed  in  Eneland.  It  is  said  that 
some  French  emiss;iries  were  detected  in  surveying  the 
p/rincipal  porti.  and  in  other  machinations  against  the 
safety  of  the  country.  In  consecpience  of  this,  foreigners 
cfeveiy  d'_"--cri{'tio!:  are  now  rei^'i^lered  at  the  alien  office 
in  (.'rrvi  n-.;i:'i'' i.  Vv'estminSier.  iind  the  eovcrnrnent  ])0S» 
sc- '-(';-•  a  hi-;':'r7  "l'  iV.rni  fmui  the  moinenl  of  their  arrival 
till  their  d:'t,ait;;;c  (.'it  of  ]]]<•  l.ii;irdi-ni.  '.  >nmakin'i  my 
aj-nearance  at  ti.r  -  ;"ke,  i  •a':\<  rrjiriiiiaudrd  in  dir  tirsl 
iii^lance,  U<v  iu:\\\-\:  teniaiiud  '-eveia'  days  in  London 
M  iihout  rrp(>vi.l!!i::  MVs'';!'.  Iiiijide  :-rch  (^xcdses  however 
as  v.'^re  ar.-cpi<  .!  :  [\\]i\  ;-:';"r  ■.vjitiu'j  iu  .1  I)oiik  which  they 
gavr-  uic.  \uy  ^v:ii\''.  •,^"■.{0-^1,,]).  ;t'fc.  place  df  ualivity  and 
rrsidfuce  in  .".le.''}  ica,.  insiia'ss  ruid  vi;>v,s  in  Ihigland.  and 
in  short.  t\(>:y  circu';!^t;ii"  e  v.iiich  \\a'  i;ecess;uy  io  <  \- 
lubii  a  >«uccirrt  fii'-tdj-y  of  liiy-'-il.  J  was  tr'xt  directed,  thi 


hS..|.\M).     II'HI.  KND      Wn     -11)11    \M), 


IP? 


•iisiiriiii:  iii\  '^ii.mI  l)c!i.i\  imir.  tuiMiui'  --[(uiixirs  n-^'uiiii^' 
111  I  .oiiil.iii.  I  \\  a^  tliiMi  i!i'-iiii>^fil  (111  -liliri.iiiC''  m;I\.  aii'l 
,  lilt  (I  I'd  t.)  call  ,11-  SI  nil  \^  illiiii  \\\'i  or  tin  >•'■  <1  i\,--,  u  inn  I 
\va'«  |iiM:niM''l  a  pi'niii--i. 'ii  to  rr-ii'..'.  \cri,i  .In:.'!;.  .  it  [.<■- 
iiij  ini'iiii\ci:iriit  lor  ni''  to  '.'o.  1  (lrspat<  !i;'il  a  '•I'i'N  iiit  ■,:\ 
till' a|ij)o;iHr.|  tinii',  \',li'i  \\a^>|■!lt  l)aik  ('in].i\.  and  willi  ,; 
iiii'>-a_'i' tiiat  1  iiri-t  coiiii-  nu'-cll.  I  Imm'  lii'cii  tlirr.'  ti  - 
i!;.\  .  aii'l  loiiiiil  ail  auL'iA  i  inloi-^finiail  ii|ioii  t!ir  imli'  u  iiii  ii 
1  ii  11 1  ^1 '111  lis  t'li'^  -I  I  \  aiil,  till'  puiiiorl  III  -A  iiirli  u  a^.  llial  I 
!ir;-t  nut  |iii^iini  to -.■iiii.  Imt  nr.-t  cniiii'  in  mt-miii.  I 
|i'!iiin;-tiMlri|  i.M  till'  iinpio|iiii|\  111  I  ii'  riai-'i:  a-,  a^  lln\ 
had  tlii'iii-i'lM-  iifiiiid  i.if  till'  aUi  i;i  iiiM'.  Ii  !t  I  r.rii\(,i 
oiils  a  \i  i\  n1iiiii  aii^wc!.  ai.ii  imii'iii  1  inijiit  llinilv  iii;.- 
-.  !l  \  I  I  \  liirtnnati'  i,i  nhtainiirj  ^o  m.i  .n  ni\  w  i  ;;'i'ii  pi  a  in  i-- 
>i'iii  III  ii'-i  |i',  I'  a'  pi  I  -I  HI  >  an  -oiiirtimi  ■<  vn'i'ic!.',!  to  s  t  \- 
ati'ill^  ill  la\  s  at  till'  a  111 'li  oil!'  1-.  a  111  1  li'  i  fla,v>  1 1]  p  ■,  ij  ^^'  iv 
>-ii  impatiriit  oi  ilii'-i-  ilila'.v,  (,rii|  ilic  rm,  'in-  iijifut 
wliii  ii  --1  iii:i-tliiii'^  att'aid-  t'liin.a-  \  iiiiaar  :;;>.  \)i  \ini-- 
lica.i  'ji'iitlrinaii  nl  ;iir  111-!  i '■-prctaihlil  \  .  ai;  ,  .'\  1  i_li 
vtaiiiiiii'j  in  lii-i  own  riiiiiitiA.  ma  Ion-  ,i.;o  a.pp'i  1  in  ti:i: 
alii'll  iitiirr  lot  hi-  lirriiN,'.  ||,'  \\;|s  !."p[  :,:;  ,.  I  ,i;_r  lim.  . 
St  a  111  i  in;:  in  a  1'  .!i'i\  .  aim  mtj  a  ci'i  i\\  a  i  ■;  r^  >  ir-o  ;  .i  i  ii!!.  i!!': 
hi^  pall'  ma-  \i,  a>  i;iii!>'  i  \:iaii-!  >  ■!  h  a  :  i  i  !:•■  i  ■  a  i !' a;- ;iMti  d 
\\  M  ii  laif  of  liii-  pill\  oiiiiaa^.  alli'iijii)^  wili;  ■.:,..'.  ■  -;;>t 
ail'!  spirit,  that  hr  \\a-  a  ^i  iilii  arm.  aial  la. a  i  ■;  1  i  i  a  ac- 
.oi-!oiiir.i  to  iiva'ji'iil  thi^  kiinl.  'I'iii'  o;':' ■  a  r  h>.;  !;!:ai 
aiih  111  ich  ^v///:^'  ^■,',/.  and  thai  \ii\  i  >  ■■  "  ,,  ;  d  an 
■  i^'i  ndaiii  to  tinn  iiiai  i^ii  nf  dimis.  \\ii'ii  '■..  •■■■  ..{■■  ...a'  uas 
'"\'' iiii'l  ill  ■■"I  diii_d\ .  'I'hr  ad\intiiii'  u,t-  a.  -i.liiirt  (i; 
-•ma  iiiiiiii  ,tai.iii  I  ihi'  ■_rii!  h  man'-  \  nu'i  i  aai  ;  .'ii'iiiN  ;a 
'   ■'■''!'  II        It    uas    iiiil\    a  vtri,!:!-    in-tan.  r    oi'  i-.    '.sii'd  . 


198  A    JOURNAL    OF    TRAVELS    I.\ 

UcanviPiil  vvliic.h  is  too  often  experienced  from  the  petty 
scrv;-iits  of  the  alien  office. 

1  an  resiiicted  to  London  and  the  country  within  thir- 
ivcr,  iMil^^s  of  it,  for  tin-ee  monihs,  will)  directions  to  com- 
ir.  i:!",  ,.,e  ov<  ■<■}  c!i  uige  of  lodgings,  and  to  apply  for  a  re- 
iievva!  of  tny  iicep.st'  ;u  the  proper  time,  and  for  a  perniis- 
si.vi  to  trns  ;.•!  \v!h::i;HTr  I  shall  go  beyond  my  prescribed 
liiiiit  ■..  Vv  <'i'e  \t  not  however,  for  the  inconvenience  which 
ns;jht  attend  kavi.ij.;  the  country,  an  American  might. 
Vr"!l-ioui  dangpi'.  disregard  all  ihe.-^e  petty  regulations,  be- 
oaiisc,  if  he  ci/OfsseK  to  keep  his  own  secret,  he  will  never 
be  kiiov-r.  iV  >in  dv  I'^nglishnian,  and  should  he  be  found  to 
b.'  ail  vn.iCiir'.Ju  notislag  but  the  grossest  indiscretion  on 
his  p:!;l.  W'U.Ll  induri'  ai'y  (  ne  to  trouble  him. 

Siiti'i  are  the  !ii'.l(kst  restrictions  imposed  on  every  for- 
figuer  :  it  uiu.^t  be  confesi-ied  they  are  not  unreasonable, 
but  strangers  are  nut  treated  ;U  the  alien  otrice  with  that 
mildness  and  lenity  which  becomes  the  character  of  the 
nation.  There  is  a  set  of  inferior  ofllcers  who  behave  with 
rudeness,  and  exercise  a  sort  of  petty  tvianny  over  those 
wlio  are  waitin<r  f  )v  t'leir  favours.  Ihn  so  far  as  I  have 
s'een  the  superior  olfK'ers.  they  have  conducted  vvith  (H<{ni- 
<y  an;l  politt^ness,  and  althou<_di  they  ouijlit  not  to  be  cen- 
sured for  the  rudeness  of  their  substitutes,  they  ought  to 
1(;iili  theui  better  niaimers. 

The  irritation  of  mind  proiiuced  [)y  the  petty  \e.\ations 
»d  the  alien  oflice,  wa'<  efi'ectually  ri'nioved  by  a  visit  to 
Vt  e^tminster  Abbey. 

\Vi:S'[\-\i[.\STKR   AHBFA'. 

fu  tiiis  veiie.'atcd  sanctuarv  of  heroes,  poets,  orators 
and  1  iuijs.  1  lii'.'.'i-;-"f'    n''ar!\' tvvo  iiours  amouir  the  monr'- 


1.  S..1.  \Nri.   .i.ii.i.wn   AND   -(Mii.wii. 


1)1 


I'Mil-   111  jii  ii'.rr^  aiil    il'ii^li  hiiis  iiii-ii.    v.ir'>''    \irl;it-,    aiul 
I  il'llt^   !•  lli\r   till'    [Millllll   ■jlciiiiii   (,|      lli^Iii|\    Willi   liric   ;iiul 

lin  11-  .1  lumliiMiis  -.|iiit.  |),>  11, ii  sw^nci-t  iin-  >>\  iili'-'ctalioii 
in  tli>  111  itttT.  u'lK'ii  I  i|i-(  1  tn-  to  \uu.  |li,tf  1  Ml  \'i  \»  K  in 
-■'  >.i!i  Ilia  a  [liar.-.  'i  In:  r,  iniltiU'-i  I  i-llrct  f\  \U\^  iiia^Li 
|iii' !  ( lalilc  arrliiiri'iui,'.  aii'l  ni    ilif  niiniiinn^   iiiniiii- 

111- '111-  nllii.'  jrral.  liir  (>  Irl  .1  at  n  i  a  1^1  ll|f  'Jo,.,!.  W  1  Ium  ■  a^l  Irs 

III' !  il:irr  111  |-i  .  lillv  till'  iiiiihl  w  i(!i  imiaaciiiiK  .  siiliHnu  .  aiiil 

tli-t  (il.   V  .1   'Ji  :i|i  inl    ,111' i    -111  •111-.        <  >1    tills    ■_'|airl     M  lllliaill    n! 

<.iiI!l'-  ,ir.lnii-,-i,;i ,-.  1  shall  imi  aUi-iii|it  a  ili-s<-|  i|aiMii.  li 
vv .  i!il-  i  ill  iisi  !(  -V  u  iilimit  till-  ai'i  1 1!  i  Ira  u  iiil's,  aiul  I  Ip  rr  a  it 
[a  mis  III  \\  I  ^tiiiiiisttT  \  iilh  \  .*  Il  1  nil  \v  'lirji  mil-  Ilia \  uliiaiii 
a  \i\\  CHI  I  IT  I  iiji  I  1,1  its  I  \Ii-i  iial  aiipi  :il  aiiri-.  'ml  i;i  if  liiii'_; 
slmit  III  ai'tiial  iiisj.'  1-111111  ran  raise  in  'In-  luiiiii  iliusi-  cnil- 
ri'jili  MIS  ill  sMlniiiai  \  au  !  -^i  aii.li-iir.  w  iiirli  ii  is  laiji  —  iMi- 
-III  ti)  ti-il  mi  iiiii  I  ill.'  iliis  -jii-  ii  as  s  hi  in  III'  lilt  ■  ilhisii  i.iiis 
Ji-a-l.  \\  ill  11  a  'hi\.  1  \vas  sH'oir^U  inn  u  rss,-,  |.  |i\  sninr 
Hi!  hi  p  i|H-i  s  111'  \iic!is,,i!,  \*  illi  a  w  ish  til  hi  1  mill  \\  <  st||nn- 
-!t-l  \  hill  \  .  .ii,.|  II  \\  IS  111  I  sail!  1  a-h  !iliiiii  1'  1  II I  \  I  i!i  i-ai  r 
h'  |i-.  ih  il  i  u  a-  i-iijiti  hijilalii)-:  ihi-  saiiii'  1  iln  rl  s  w  iiu  |i  hail 
hill'  111  lull'  r\i  ili-.l  ,1;  Inn: .  1  iio-i'  1  i-i'i  rtim:-  u  ilh  \\  inrii  hr 
has  ii!-!iiir',  1 !  a  I;.  1  .  ir  h '_:  i  ii  •  ■  i  iiiankiiii  i.  \\  1  -iniiisit  1  \  !i- 
iii  v'  1  •Milalii-  Im-,  111  niN  inti  i<--rnij  ihni-.s  (,,  a  hiiil  nl  ahi-- 
ijiiaii-  i|i--.'a  i|il  ii  in.  \silhiii  aii\  nanln  \\<-  hiin;^.  |  s|,,i:i. 
\\  I ;  a  •  1  a  I  1 1 1 1 ! , '  > : .  \  i  - :  l  it  a  j .  i :  i , .  ha',  in  ! '  1 1  ■  i  n  •  a ' ;  I  a  a  •  .  i  - :  i  i  a 
III-  nl  11  HI  a   Ii'W    iih-i  rts. 

I  il'-  ai.iirnni-nt  11  1  I  ti'h   t  i  i  in    ini  iiajl  \   i.l   ^1  •  a  'i'    \  iim!  ■-, 
.;Ilii-  '    ':    a    -all!!    "a'-.  iMli  rall\    .iMr    •■•i-h    ;-•■     :-;i  -il:..!)  ,  '' 


ii.i"'    \\  1  '    .•;•/. 


a  •!■>  .    1  .  I  I  .     'ImIj      ;ii  a 
iii'ii,  aiiil  •!.■    ^  Til'     :•' 


200  A  JOrRNAL  OF  TRAVELS  IX 

an  American.  I  was  gratified  to  see  that  the  inscri])tion 
contained  no  reflection  on  (General  ^\'ashington,  notwith- 
standing the  injurious  aspersions  which  were  so  liberally 
thrown  on  his  character  at  the  time.  Now,  I  believe,  he 
is  universally  allowed  to  have  done  only  his  chity.  The 
monument,  which  is  of  white  marble,  exhibits  an  histori- 
cal sketch  of  the  last  scene  of  Andre's  life.  They  are 
leading  him  to  execution,  and  (ienera.l  W  ashinaton  is  rep- 
resented as  refusing  to  receive  a  message  which  is  at  that 
moment  brouglit  him  by  a  ilag  of  truce  from  the  English 
general.  The  countenances  oi'  the  surroiindlnt^  American 
ofticers  are  expressive  of  the  deepest  sympathy  in  the  suf- 
ferings of  the  gallant  victim;  but  it  is  well  known  that 
General  Washington  was  not  present  at  llie  execution. 

The  mob  liave  knocked  off  ihe  heads  of  Andre,  Wash- 
in<rton,  and  another  American  officer,  \vhich  sfives  the 
monument  a  deformed  nppearance. 

In  the  Poet's  tlorner,  amonij:  many  other  monuments, 
are  those  of  (Jay  and  j>en.  .Tonson.  1  was  much  displeas- 
ed with  the  inscriptions  upon  tliem,     Oi!  tlie  latter  is  : 

"  0  '.are  Een.  .lousou  !" 

On  the  former — 

"  Life  is  a  joke,  mill  iiiilliinss  pIiow  it  ; 
I  thouglit  so  oticf!,  hiil  now  1  kiiuw  it.'' 

Surely  a  sepulchral  monument  is  the  last  place  on  which 
a  witticism  ought  to  tippear. 

The  chapel  of  King  Henry  \U.  is  a  splendid  piece  e( 
Ciothic  nrchitccture.  In  o'le  n;c!ie  of  this  cliripd  lie  the 
cotTms  of  a  Spmisli  ai'd  ;i  Savoyard  a'nljj'ss  i  'or.  wh  'SC 
bodies,  after  death,  were  seized  for  debt,  and  having  never 


i.\i.l.\Nf).     »!'iI.!\N[>     -.M)     -('     ri\\iJ.  .I'll 

h»M'ii  rcilf'iii' il  liv  ilifii'  iVii-iiil^,  ii,i\r  1,1111  ill  !!'.  iiii:)ui  i<-(i 
V\fr  simc   the  1 1  i'_'i)  I'l' Jaiiir-.   il. 

!■  ur  -.  :!!if  piir;.u>c  .ii'  >t.iti  .  t'lir  Ciirriii  of  I  .lUv  anl  I.  u,i« 
n|M 'icii.  ,'.!mi!iI  tiiirtv  \iar^  au".  .imi  lii>  l)ti.l\  ua^  loiiiiii 
•iii'li  '  :!\<  J.  I'l'tainiiij  !;•-  i'.tiii.  'I'lii-  ciirni  Iia^in'i  Ix.Ti 
.'  'a'm  (li  |jn-i!iil  ill  t!i>'  \  aiilt.  !iiil  i '■inaiii>  alxivc  .ji..iinil. 
I;  i-   III.'.',    ':ii>\   t\  !  1-,  c'apv  .!.      Tilt'  <  \tiliiir  ciliiii  i^  ..!  >i,a!,>. 

'[']'.'■  amii-iU  iiiniiiiiiH  lit-.  1  iiiian  clmilv  tlio-r  wliirli 
.I!''  at  l-a  ;  two  iT  tiu'i-  (  lutai  a--  "I'i.  li'MHial'v  .'xlnhii  an 
iiiia-.'.-  (.1  till'  jK  i-m!i  wliom  tin  y  laiiiiiii.-iniaatr.  !_\  iii'_'  al 
lull  I'ujt'i.  Mi:;\  oi'  ili'''ii  ,iri-  clal  in  -nit-  "!  ainiinir, 
u  !lli  Ih  lilt-.  Ill  iiii'  t  -,  aii't  -u  oi'l-  :  tiifv  lii-  on  tlii-,i  liack-, 
aii'i  !rf(|:a!!l!\  Ii;-  SiaAf  Isiii^lit  i>  attt-inlfil  li\  lii-  lailliliil 
ro'i^i  a  I.  \'.  no  ;•  jm.m-  ii\  iii-  -idc  in  all  tin'  -lili'  .irapi  i\  ot 
lii>  aji  .  n  niii  n.i  siitii  |-  -till  liv  nn-Lillnl  >rnlptini  in  inar- 
l)'c.  Noiliiii  ^  can  II''  nior.-  prn  i>i-  ami  Lri;i\ '  1\  InnnriMi-. 
til -n  -  ir!i  an  i  \'i;iHiioii,  anil  il  ri-i|iiirri|  all  tli''  -"[rinnity 
a:!  I  iia''h.N  (.1  ;iir  ni-i  I  iiitioiiN  to  iiiilina'  a  |ii"|'i  i  L^oasity 
o:  ili.i!i_'nt.       lihl.  .  il.  It   -•  i-:n-  tliat  l!i>'  ta-!''  v\  a-  allo-,-iii.i 

an    I   !  1  liMa  oil-    nllr.         1  !.ii|    llir\    |i|ai-r,l    til.'    k  111  J  1 1 !  -   on    ;  I  iri  1 

!.'■'.  all  ai  nn  i|  raji-a-pi.'.  it  uoii';.!  liaM-  linai  a  n;  ifr-.-nta- 
li>ai  oi'  liir.  an  '.  tin'  iinpn  --ion  won!. I  !ia\.-  h.  .-ii  a  nalnral 
oiii'.  I'.  I  It  uiial  !ia"~  l:a'  kni'jnt  in  aiinoiir  (oiloi.ii  In- 
:>ai's  ,'  llrrinint  'm'  -ini|io-'-il  to  In-  -lain  in  coiiin.'t,  oi 
I' p.oiii-  ill  iho  I,,  M  1.1  lianji'  ;  -till  li  --  ill  tin-  Imi-mihhI 
111-  own  r  a  - 1 '  1  .  o  ]•  ( '  \  I  11  1 '  1  till  1 1  a  n  1 1 .  :  ■ '  r  k  1 1  ■  v  n '  -  • '  i  -  ■  i  ■  ■  n  1 1  ■  i 
hina''i  i.  la  a'  ilo  llav    '.'o  ii  >  !  icil  m  a  inn  mi  , 

'I'lir  -  inn'  'iml  o|'  a  i;'.  ita  t  it  ■>!  i-  i  h.m -a  aiai  1  V  '■  \  Ini  m  n  . , 
ni  tin'  nioiiti:n<  an-  oi'iah''-.  in'I  n  i -ti  n  .  n:-!i>-.  I  1)_\  ini!.iaiy 
apjiiaiila:'!'-.  '!  'ii  ic  u.i-  ■  in  mi  oi  jio:  nnr  \sli.i  l-t  la  i 
iila.  in  a  l.iinii  r  i'  a  ni.  !i\  tia-  pmiitni  o|  a  ]iin  in  li<  i  lin- 
,an'.      >lii-  i-  1  lana  -•  nti'k  in    m  o'.'.-,  -niai  '  n""i'   Ik  i  •i^'-'i 


202  A  joi;r-\al  of  travels  >n 

tomb,  and  raising  her  bleeding  finger,  as  if  to  excite  com- 
passion, while  she  is  looking  at  it,  with  a  dismal  expres- 
sion of  pain  and  fear. 

Tiie  modern  monuments  are  much  more  dignified  ;  they 
represent  living  men  in  natural  attitudes  and  situations, 
and  excite  interest,  sympathy,  and  impressions  of  solem- 
nity. 

Among  these  I  was  j)articnlarly  |)leascd  with  the  monu- 
ments of  Lord  Mansfield.  Lord  Chatham,  C«eneral  Wolfe, 
and  Captain  Montague.  From  these  scenes  I  returned 
home,  meditating  on  the  vanity  of  human  pursuits,  the 
emptiness  of  sepulchral  glory,  and  the  poor  rewards  of 
famt;,  even  when  its  object  is  enshrined  in  Westminster 
Abbey. 

London  already  begins  to  grow  to  a  considerable  de- 
gree familiar,  and  1  now  find  my  way  from  one  part  of  tiie 
town  to  anollier  without  difficulty.  But  the  place  is  huge- 
ly overgrown.  If  one  has  concerns  of  business,  or  engage- 
nieiits  of  civility  of  any  considerable  extent,  the  probabili- 
ty is,  that  he  must  travel  eiglit  or  ten  miles  a  day,  and  ol- 
ten  more. 

Mcy  30. — London  is  justly  renowned,  all  the  w(»rld 
over,  tor  its  charitable  institutions.  As  I  was  jiRssing  by 
St.  raul's  this  morning,  I  found  no  small  dil'iiculty  in 
winding  my  way  through  an  immense  crowd,  asscml'led 
around  the  rhmch,  to  set'  the  procession  of  the  charity 
childKii,  who,  to  the  number  olsix  or  seven  tliousand,  as- 
semld.'  annually  at  St.  I'auFs,  on  the  last  Thursday  (;f  May. 

I  met  sevend  companies  of  them  dicssed  in  unilorm; 
they  a|ip(>ared  neat,  healthy,  and  clKMM'ful,  and  were  of 
both  sexes,  and  ;reiieral!v  under  tu'.  l\e  years  of  a'.-e.  I 
re<jreitcd   tlnit  1  liai'  no  nuNius  ot' prociirine;  achni^s'uui  to 


!.\.:I.\Mi,    lli.l.l.\M»      \M)     >ii>ll    \M, 


.>o; 


Uir  rtliL'ii'U-,  r\<-iiiscs  111  (lie  (iiiy.  Ft  u.i>  a  tliiii_'  uiii'ij 
iinpii<\   \M>iiM  woX  Ihiv,  ami  ss  liirli  I  liml  no  owv  In  jnoiiir*' 

t!>l      111!'. 

<  )ii  in\  \^;l\  li.ick.  I  stopjitii  mi  lidiir  at  I'iiiiock's  Mi>- 
iia,:i  ill  tilt'  StiMiui.  'I  liK  i-  In  lar  the  iiii»I  r\iriiNi\»- 
an  !  iiitric^tinL' rdllrcti^'ii  kI  ii\  iiii:  auiiMaU  lii.it  I  iia\i'  iv- 

•  T  -.-.  11.        It     CM'f.  .N   itii!    ill    tlir     I'liw.T.         I'llt  it  is    illljiiis- 

siiilf    in\-   iiif.  iii\   il<'ar    hf.ttlitT.  t'l   •.:i^''    aii\   tliiiii'    likr   a 

(111!;  j  .'.I  ti-  ill  vrri| -t  i,)ii  111  liic  \:ir;.i|i>  •-.  •llic'tiiMi^  .iinl  ciiriiis- 
iii^  -    wliiiii    i\>r\    (la\    liiiMi/^  I"    ni\    imti.-c.        )-,//    umi:M 

IImI     1.,1\i'      |r   Hi'   UI-i-    fn    PM,I.     n.'l     iia\r     /    tliU''    til      W  IMi'    -MH    h 

1 1.1 1 :  1 1  t.iiU.  \l|  1 1 1.1 1  I  r:in  ill)  i.  1,1  ciiiiiiiTi  u  illi  (ill'  liis- 
liil".  Ill  iil\  !•;<•  ill  lli;>  ciiMUlrN  .  L''  ii'l-  il  it'ilir.  -  (  l'  llii'  iiiT.  |-. 
cviiii'  iiiMi  _'^  w  liirh    I    vcr.  wiili    ilr^cri|ii  il  ln'^  iif  ^11'  il    jrn- 

[irnl.l!  -  a-  -';  i'vi'  !;)!'  Ill'i-t  Iii!ri'i!\.  I ,  \  i  1 1  1 1 1  i  s  \\  i  1 1  |  i  r- 
!ia[.-  Ill  [■■■lii.il-.  !>;il  l:i\  ,i;m1ii'\  iihivI  h,..  jjiii  |i|\  [i|;-;,i. 
(lal  IK'  ii\''  Iiir  wril'iij  ;!i;>  ]iMirnal.  \^a-  In  cimjiI;  wiiii 
s  I  iiir  w  :>']>-  a  ;  1  tn  /i  n  il\  a  iiw  i  a  li  i  li  !•  iiiN.  v\  li  ■■-,•  .ii- 
■  1  ' :  mi!'  |i  ii'vi!  I  \  \\  '[\  ill.  111!  •■  tip  in  t-  >  1 1\  n  !■  ■■  I's  I'.n'  niia- 
\ni  !i!ili'  (  .v'l'/.  '  111  a  I  ii'i  !■  ainaiiri'.  in  wiiiili  ilii'  urihT 
i:;':^!  cnii-taai'l'v  ■  ;-  i '%  ■<:  lian-i  IT.  il  in'  -.miuM  li-  l.iitlilul  lit 
111.-  ti  ut'i.  <  >ai  II' i\-.  il  I-  l!  il'.  lil^i-  (  ■  I'^ai. --all^^ltllt^■  ilir 
■'in  1  I  iM,,,-!  !,.|  ;!,  ■  t'v^l.  Ir.it  (ill--  i>  I  nil  re  iiitrnilt  '«/ 
'A  ■'//.  .-.1  !.  ill  1 1,".  ,  'in  !i'--  i.iiiiii'!-  liian  (  'a--ir.  vv  mijii 
,  ;~.ti\  i-iiiivi,!.  I .  .i    a-   I  \  nii'li"/    th--  m  i  \   iliin  •   w  iia  ii    il 

iM-  •  \  tiilii'!.. 

\  aim::  ;'  I-  1  h  /■  ai;:;i:  lU  at  I'r  !''■  nk'- .  ail  \\\n  iii\  a!  ti- 
:  li  lai  111  n'_  lI  :  a  iiiaani  i  liniii---.:  Iah  lii'i'  ami 
iM'iri  jiii,  i:-  !|iiin  ^iiiit'i  XliMii'M  ill'.'  iiiT  N  vjiotici! 
r, 'a  '  till'  l''<;'nii;  i  Imiiiiii';  I'ni'iri  nr  ti'r  hum  tin' 
r.a-i  111  i'l-.  :i  s,N  '!!  h  ,1  !„  ;,ut'inl  ;,Mi.,.:il  ulm  ii  i>  i;-.  il  li\ 
i!i"    \-',  Iia-   iiiiM'->'>   in  iiiiulina  :    il    i-  -ai'.i  llial  'iii/S'  • 'M  i_> 


:^04  A   JO'oUN'AL    OF   TRAVELS    IN 

t'nem  on  the  pommel  of  the  saddle,  from  which  they  spring 
upon  their  prey,  particularly  the  antelope.  There  were 
two  hyenas,  animals  which  no  degree  of  kindness  or  fa- 
miliarity with  man  can  at  all  .soften  from  their  native  fero- 
city ;  a  nlnjl-ghaw,  a  large  animal  resembling  the  elk  in 
form,  but  having  a  head  like  that  of  a  horse,  except  that  it 
is  crowned  u  ilh  horns. 

The  elephant  held  the  first  rai.ik  in  size.  This  animal 
was  nearly  nine  feet  high,  and  'ooks  more  like  a  huge  rock 
than  a  living  animal.  It  is  wf>nd(>rful  wit'i  what  ease  he 
•'  wields  his  lithe  proboscis."'  [t  answers  him  all  the  j)ur- 
poses  of  a  hand,  and  as  Jiu'T.jn  remarks,  he  carries  his 
nose  in  \W'  same  orgaii,  and  dies  unites  touch,  smell,  and 
the  jiower  of  grasping,  all  in  one  member.  Without  it  he 
certainly  could  not  subsist.  I  threw  a  small  key  among 
the  straw  on  the  lloor^  when,  by  the  direction  of  his  keep- 
er, he  found  it  with  his  proboscis,  and  gave  it  to  me. 
Ceiug  asked  how  many  gentleu)en  there  were  in  the  room, 
he  iiave  as  many  short  l)reathings  as  corresponded  to  the 
number,  and  the  same  for  the  ladies  ;  in  the  same  manner 
he  told  the  ages  of  two  children  tliat  weie  present : — he 
bolted  aiid  unbolted  the  doors,  picked  up  my  cane  and 
liave  it  to  me,  took  olf  the  keeper's  haf  and  put  it  on, 
thrust  his  probuscis  into  my  waistcoat  ]iocket.  and  took 
out  a  piece  of  mon(>y  that  was  t,liere,  \c.  W  ell  might 
Mr.  ['ope  call  him   ''  half  reasiuiin'i  elephant.'' 

Among  (lie  Mualler  animals  were  s(.'\('i'al  kan:;aroos; 
tlicv  l-aiC  v('i-y  slioit  fore  legs  and  very  louL''  hind  ones, 
on  whii  h  they  >tand  erect,  and  one  of  them  had  been 
taiic'hl  to  l)o\  V.  ith  his  ket^per,  wliilr  in  this  attimde.  and 
might  h.iv  ;nade  a  very  Ii'l-'ra!.l(^  pupil  of  Mt.'udo/.;'.  with 
at  Ica.si  a>  minli  that  was  liuman  about  liim. 


riirr.'  u.i-  ,1  \i  rv  L'Vi  .it  i-i)|'r,;iM:i  of  :\\,.'\\,'\^  and  i);:b- 
iiniis  ;  lull  witlitlii^  !)  iil'-^'jMr  11)1  ihi-  ,:  i:;i.iii  I'lMii.  !  ;iiii 
;i!>.\.,\>  (livjii>t,d.  ar.i!  I'-.-l  ^11-i'iiscd  1,1  v;i_\  ,  .,s  ;!,.■    l-.i;)-    ,  i 

I'.iul.llld.  MIldiT  thr  lilll  ul'  K'll'J  I'l'  I'lr  l;ii.|lJlli,l_^.  's  I'l  Ji- 
ll-^1  litre  I  ill  a  I  III'  iMiiraiaii  pi  in!,  a-  >a\  U".'  i-f  I'n  ii,  ipai  !•'. 
liU'ii  r  till'  rli.ii  ai  ii  1  i.i  (  uilli'.  >  r.  I  li''  kih/.  w  itli  an  .>iH  :  •, 
'_li-N  at  111-  r\r.  l.M.k>  iiili  imK  at  lin-  lilli.'  ii',\aiii  r.  win'Mi 
IP  lliiM^  il]i  1)1  t\\i  111  III-.  tiuii:i!i  a;,'i  lai  a-r.  \v\.\\:  \\r  pi  ;:- 
'    '.:',\   ■  \'i.ii!a-.   ••  I  am  o!  n|,li,i,a;  llial   n  is  ,i  ii,..Nt  M.|ii'  " 


I   in,-'   ii"t  niiiii    t.i  ana.ii.i  ,  Ma-    liii:.'    !i.ill    t.iki  ii    fi  ■  > 

I  :ir  ail  an  jiaii'  nl     lip; ,^,i,i.    :t   .'^i';  in-i  p  i!;ii,;.       !!■ 

M'  1\    i\\(i    I,  ,  [    s, A,  II    lai'la  -  l.i.  .1.   ;i:i''.  i-   ki  [it  'n 
:  'aii't  u  liii  !i  la    i  aio  liki     •  .   -. 


X  ,.  \I\  ._!.()\!)(v\, 


w .    •      11.. 
-w.al.i:   V. 


M.n,  .:i.— I    .iai 
At  !a.  i.il.'.    I  Ilia 

..1    (    m!  a;,l.a-. 

■•    I.    Wi  ~l    I.  a    •.. 


:     I  a!    n.ia  >  i    ,  • '.       11.     ia  a,l 

-i'^    ■...    .    I.,-    a    ,il..    i,r  a: 

i  \  .   aiai  -:rii|  'a  i'\    i  l'  la  una  , 

!aa    il    u  a',  a    i  iial  '■  ■.    .a;.,  t,,    i 

-i    la   1:>   .  .U.T..       ll'-  i.,  1-. 


206  A   JOLTvNAI.    OP   TRAVELS    IN 

adorned  with  a  profusion  of  fine  pictures,  but  I  did  not 
take  the  liberty  of  inquiring  which  were  his.  I  endeav- 
oured to  draw  liim  into  conversation  upon  the  subject  of 
the  fine  arts,  in  one  department  of  which,  that  of  histori- 
cal painting,  you  know  he  has  gained  the  first  rank.  He 
very  obligingly  yielded  to  my  wishes,  and  gave  me  an  in- 
teresting and  instructive  historical  sketch  of  the  rise  and 
progress  of  the  fiiie  arts  in  England.  With  this  subject 
he  seemed  to  be  perfectly  accjuainted.  He  dates  their  ori- 
gin from  the  time  of  the  third  Edward,  and  he  enumerated 
the  pauiters,  architects,  and  sculptors,  who  had  flourished 
in  the  different  reigns.  But,  so  little  progress  had  these 
things  n\;ickj,  even  at  the  close  of  the  reign  of  George  II. 
when  Mr.  West  came  to  England,  that  he  declared  llie 
country  was  at  that  tin)e  almost  destitute  of  the  cultiva- 
tors of  the  fine  arts  ; — mure  destitute  in  his  oj>inion  than 
America  now  is.  But,  he  added,  that  England  could 
now  boast  of  more  than  three  hundred  distinguished  paint- 
ers and  sculptors.  Along  with  this  progress  in  the  fine 
arts,  he  hatl  traced  a  CTo',ving  relinement  and  humanity  in 
til!!  manners  of  the  people.  Formerly,  every  young  gen- 
tleman was  obliged  to  learn  boxing,  to  defciiil  himself 
against  the  insults  oi  the  mob,  which  he  waj  sure  to  re- 
ceive in  walking  the  streets  ;  l)iit  nt)w,  there  is  universal 
decorum  and  civility  in  the  maniiv'is  of  the  lower  ranks. 

He  inquired  concerning  tlie  state  of  society  in  America, 
and  particularly  of  the  proi'ress  of  th(.'  fine  arts.  He 
lly>!udi!  that  tSicy  liad  alreaiiy  attained  a  ercat  (k^^n'ce  of 
Httenlion,  con^idci'iiiL:  the  aue  of  the  country,  and  seeined 
ver\  much  gr;;li(ieii  wiili  the  introckiction  of  the  piaster 
casts  of  the  celebrate;!  siutues  of  antiquity,  into  ^ew- 
York.      ii<!  sai.i  lie  v.ould  not  relincini-li  the  ilea  of  revis- 


VMI  AM>.    T\f>\\    \Sn     AN'[.    -•  '     i!    >  Ml.  ->l, 

iiiiij  hi-  r.>'>mti\ .  I'mm  w  lii'-!i  !:<■  In. I  ii  'W  In  ■  n  .ili-  'u! 
iiiun'  tliaii  riirt\  \t.(is.  a-  a<-v.a-  |ii-;i.i.i.l  t>)  \>r  nmv 
iiiucli  L'lMlilii  M  ill  \\i!nr--iii>j  It-  liiipi"\  MMi  i.i.  Il'--jii'kr 
\i:\  lii.'hiv  n|'  \ouni  Mr.  Nlallionr  .>l'  \.'ar  ti-Aii.  and 
j)!.ii!'.aiw a  (I  liiiii  to  !■".  ill  hi>  i>!)iiii.a:i,  a  ln-'-ial'  luiii'a- 
fii:"'    [laiii!'!'. 

Ml.  \\.-i.   \.>a  Kth'U.    iia-  i.ai-   lnM  a  !ii'_li  laiik  la  i;a 

asMiir  aa.i  |.aiin  m  .■  ni  iln'  kiiij'.  \-  tin-  jmIi  una'.'.'  !;.  - 
•:anin;',  ir  tli.'  \iMi'iraii  war.  it  ua-  iMMial  to  t\|.<',  • 
»:!!••  r  tlia.t  it  w  ai,l,|  lia\  c  1mm  a  w  itiniia'.v  a  v\  la n  t'lat  i a  ,  -i- 
"ain>'  cii.  .a  .  tlm  at  It-  i-t.  all  -\  nijiailiy  w  i;li  lii-  roinitix  - 
ni- II  iiai-I    lia\-  h.a  :i  -th  liMM-lv  laaaa   ,!.■;!  (.a    liu'    pait.'l 

.\!'.  \\'r-t.  Dul.  liiacil  t'.  til'  (a-riiil  ut'  tiii>  La  1 1  i  !•  ii  I  :  a 
-iii.i  nf  ||i>  Tdsal  |i  itroii.  ii'i  -a<li  (ii-'.aac'  I  il  c  aapliaia-r- 
ui  ar  ritlii  r  (Diirriliai  cr  I'  .aiiii-.l.  I  iiasc  l-a-aii!  an  ai:i  '■- 
.i  .!i-  (a:  l!ii-  -.A*]'  >  I.  \\  la-ii  .•wj'u  i"  la'  iM'",'"    .  I    1   I,  a"  t: 

il'  .il'iiir   nl   I. Mill    |)  II  •!■  -. 

I  ),a  il!'.  tl,''  \  a;  ,  i  '  i!i  \>  a  .  ^'l .  \\  >  -i  \\  a  -  t  i:.i>i>  ;»'  li  a* 
\\  :,,  ;-:  ;  C-.-iaa  ;a  i  ,ia-i';  :■  'li-'-ia  .'!  pi'  '■■■  1-r  la^ 
^;,  i-  i\  ,  >wlai  .  !!iai  al'.  ail.  i  i  a.  ;Ma  ■  ';  ;  i  •  !.-'■!  '  r  llir  yy.-^ 
•a'  ->  "i  tla'  u  .M'!,.  'Iha  >  ti'j  a"i''  Ml  ilic  a.,  i;  r  ;-.  •!  -'la!'.  •. 
: '.  1 1  ia>  uiaa  -]i'  al>-  l.iaij  in  hi-  M  .'■  -I\ "-  |  i  •  -'  .a  a.  a  an  -  • 
:■,-'.  -  •  \.  a  t'l  ii\  In  a!  :  ~  '  M  <  a  '..i-  r.  ^  ■  :  -  a  am  i-  (•■  'a- 
:  1  w  ! ' :  ^ ; ,  I  a  , .  I  1 1 1  ■  Km:  ^^  '  -  in  I  h ' '  ;  •  a  i  a  t ;  n  .  i .  ■ .  a  i ' . 
(.at-  iinanin/.  a-  a-i  a!,  aia!  a  naa/m  i'  i  t  i'a  ■■,.a!''aa-  \^  ■  i'' 
jiii-.-.,t.  aiaoicj  wlaan  w  a  -  a  naitaaiiar  a-ljlinii:.  who 
ha'i  h  irj  liri  11  I  n\  i'lii-  of  Mia\\is|\  hiai  -I  an  iiiaj  w  ith 
II  a  K  1 1 1  a .  a  I  a  1  w  a  -  i .  -  i  n  j  i  \  i  v.  a ,  :  i  a  (  i  ^  to  \v  m  a  1 1 ,  |  h ;  -  f  a  n  a  a 
It  iiiipa'  la  ■!  ih  a  a  ':::/.'  It-  i  \ti  i-niia  ii\  li  ;.!.  lli  it  naaa- 
ina.    ii'iai  -.ail  s  .wa    lii  ai    I..  i.       i '.  i  a       ai    .ncani;  ^i 

tlia  li,,ttl.  ..[  (  ':,-|i'i,'.  :i.  ill  .^.  -  1 1  i  i  <  '  i  a  ,!  i .,  i .  'Ih'- .  I 'a  •  no- 
'>'..   a  a'    r'    •''    a'.    -amiI,!    (;.■  ;i  ..,,  ,,!    ,,n;  ..   t      .if.    l   ■    a'aa  l 


SOS  A   JOUKNAL    OF   TRAVELS    IX 

Mr.  West  in  preseiue  of  tlio  King.  Accordingly,  with- 
out paying  any  regard  to  the  propri<'ty  of  tlie  occasion,  he 
addressed  Mr.  ^''est  in  a  loiiti  voice,  and  a  short  dialogue 
ensued,  in  nearly  the  followinir  terms. 

Mr.  West,  iiave  yon  heard  the  news  from  town  this 
morning  r 

Ko,  sir,  r  have  not  seen  tlio  papers  of  to-day. 

'1  lion,  sir,  let  me  inform  yon,  that  his  iMajesty's  trooj)s 
in  South  Ca^'olina  have  g;iinod  a  splendid  victory  over  the 
relicls,  your  ceantrymen.  This,  1  suppose,  cannot  be  very 
pleasant  iieu's  to  you,  Mr.  W(!st ! 

Mr.  West  saw  the  snare  that  was  laid  for  him,  and  de- 
termined that  if  he  must  die,  he  would  die  like  a  man. 
He  therefore  replied — no,  s!r,  this  is  not  pleasant  news  to 
me,  for  1  never  can  rejoice  at  the  misfortune?  of  my  coun- 
tty  men. 

I'he  King,  who,  till  this  moment,  had  not  appeared  to 
regard  the  conversation,  now  trirned,  and  said  to  Mv.  West 
— sir,  that  answer  does  you  Iionoiu' !  ;t!id  then  immediate- 
ly addressiiig  himsidf  to  the  Lord,  added — ^-ir,  let  me  tell 
i/oti,  tiiat,  in  my  opinion,  ;uiy  in;\n  who  is  ciipuble  of  re- 
joi(  ing  in  the  calamities  of  ins  country,  can  never  make  a 
good  sui)iect  of  any  aovernment ! 

Such  scutiiiicnl-  iis  thcsi.'  are  characteristic  of  a  mag- 
nanimous and  superior  man,  anil  nuist  certaiidy  go  lar  to- 
ward- in\aiidaLing  unfavourable  ]iopular  imj)ressions  cou- 
cerning  the  ])i'e.>(>iit  Kini:  of  l:1nulaiul. 

\N   KXri  RSIOX. 

Jum:\. —  Lu;;d(in,  you  know,  is  surroimded  by  villas 
and  country  seats,  wIick;  the  opid'Ut  citi/ens  reside  a 
gicater  or  less  part  of  ihe  year.     I  hav<'  dineil,  to-day.  at 


JNi.I.  Wn,    MOM  AM)    AND    SCMTI,  \M). 


1'1>*I 


iUiC  (<\  ',]]<••«'  !)r:iij!i!'iil  (il;i:T<,  alxiut  tlin^r  milcN  tVnDl  fuuil, 
fill  th-  Kent  i-ii;i,i.  It  is  l!ir  siMt  ol'  Mr.  I  I.ird'MM  h'.  ?i 
W'Sthhv  i;u'i<'li.i,it.  till'  J..1I  ;irti!,ir  Iricu.l  "!  li.T  (clrhiaKil 
rniisiirv man  Dr.  .Ma-m).  I  \\nnn\  .Mr.  IlaiilraMlt-  uallun'/ 
in  the  u'l  ouiids  lia^  !^  ni'  his  Iv.mi-..".  iii  (•(i!ii!>aiiy  w  iilj  a  \  niiii  ' 
<-liM-_'\  mail  Ifi'in  I  ■  laa^i.  W  >"  lirid  a  lar^'i'  jiarly  at  (lip.iu  .-. 
AiiiiMi','  till' l.i(li>'N  wiTi'  scMTal  wli.)  wt'ii'  \.niiiij  ami  ji.fl- 
t\,  au'l  wliitM'  i'(  atiiii's  liaii  inncli  -nl'tiii's^  aihl  drlicacN  i-i 
r\pn-.^iiiii.  ( )iii'  cirrlr,  hl■^il|t  >  lifinj  lii^till'_'Miv||t■tl  i'oi 
t'oai  .  li'.'anrc  111  iiiaiiiais  ami  (ai!ii\atiiiii  rl'  inimi  uliicli 
til'  lil^l  n<'ii|)|i'  (..''cMMA  |>iili>hi'il  riMliiIiA  r\liil)it.  u  as  rr- 
iiiaika!il<'  al>ii  ,-  hiin'.'  i-ciiipoNc.l  |h  im-ijialK  nl'  i  fli'/ioiis 
)ii' ifili'.  'I  ill  ir  wi'vr  si'Ma'al  clri'^A  !iii  II  at  laiilr.  ami 
aiin'irj  liif  ri'^t  Air.  Hi  i;i)i:i;,  tin'  aniliiT  ct'  lli.'  \  i!!ai_'»' 
Si'i  imm-.  an  iaii'lli'^nit  ami  plfasiiiLr  man.  I'ut  t'a  \.miii'; 
fl' I 'jv  mail    lii'iii    liil.iml    amai\('l    lis  \i:-\'    ni^a  !i    l'\     liis 

l\;i'iur     |iii]iiarit\.         I    nlL'i  lllML''     ulial      \\a-     lia-     ti>     I'idi  1' 

im-!i,  !"  Nil  aiiLiT^.  .and  to  iadics.  li.'  t::!'.id  aliiiM-t  imts- 
:>aii!'\.    ami  llial  I'/M  i\  iilisiamiiii'j  l!ii-  !••  M  ■-    l^ilM!\    ('.lU'i^- 

srd     !i.    -'Mil.-   ,,:'    llic   laWir-.    I'  v|     jii>   r\i  li'.iM,   |   ,    ,  !;t(  Itaill 

till-  ri'Mijia  i\  Nlvadd  iii'it:  ,■  Ills  la  ailii.  v.  ;ii<  ii,  it  -.-■;,'-.  is 
l>ad  :  iiai  iiim-  wdiiM  n.-i  d  >.  lor.  \\:lli  !ii''  nlam-i  si'i- 
[,M-M  ^.  I,  III  ai;.;  a  -■  in  ami  ,  !i.'  '-mih  i  :rii'' I  in  poar  i\<i\\  ii    *•  t!i<' 

WiaU^     ^ilMVMl""     tlllr\'l\     oil:'    \S    IS    '|,M|  li'  V     lii        i. 

Ml.  II.  is  a  man  o,'  \ia'.  niii  i  ]>!iM~ir  •  dim  :a  i',  la  i 
S'l  aid  anil  (■■i!!:-.  ,it,-,i  niimi.  .im!  ,i,  ji.Tiaal ,  a  \'  :■■  a:  <  'in  i  - 
liaii.  ill  i->  i!iNUa'_",i>li''d  in  !  !,  land,  .an  i  i;  >  n:;!^mA\ii 
;n  ii!a''  roaniia  -.  ,.-  an  ari]\i'  lia  :,d  <■:  ii  !'  ■'■a;,  iii  niiji- 
[•"\\  "1  \.liiiai  ill-  (ai;,tii!u.:  -  11. a  •■:'.\\  \\'- .  tina'  ,ind  i'\i  ':■ 
tna>.  iiai  m  v\  |  ai  iall\  li  'ai  in-  nn-Maii'  ;  aa  thr  idi-'i  .:,> 
["■|||il''  <||  i,ii'_:!i;i  nid,'-  'jn  ana-  1  \'  I  ^'a^N  l!i.inlli.-i  i' 
■'i.\  nrn.T  (■'■nnii_\   wi  sajii-at  .li    ;iir  caii.-r  \siiirli  ila-v    i*- 


HO  A   JOUKNAL    OP   TRAVELS    IN 

poiisc,  Vou  liavo  heard,  ])(:rliap.s,  ilnu  durintr  the  laie 
siiort  peace  w  ith  Franco,  a  committee  of  English  gentle- 
men went  over  to  Paris,  for  the  i)ur[)o.se  of  taking  steps  to 
sup{)ly  the  French  with  tlie  Bible  in  their  own  language. 
Of  this  cnsnmittee  JMr.  Ilardcastle  was  one,  and  he  assur- 
ed me  that  the  fiict  whicli  was  published,  was  literally  true, 
that  they  searched  Paris  lor  several  days,  before  a  sinch- 
J>ible  could  be  found. 

The  seat  of  this  gentleman  was  built  by  a  Dutchman, 
who  nianilested  the  strong  eflect  of  national  habit  on  pri- 
vate taste,  by  siirrounchng  the  house  with  a  very  broad 
and  deep  dltcii  fdled  with  water,  like  the  canals  of  Hol- 
land, and  furnished  \\'n\\  a  chaw-bridge  like  a  fortification. 
I  know  Hot  v-hether  he  really  intended  to  fortify  the  house, 
like  an  ancU'ut  castie.  or  to  make  the  scene  somewhat  re- 
semble ilollaml,  for  the  cviumry  was  such  as  to  render  a 
ditch  pertVcllv  unnecessary. 

'J'his  pkice  is  a  doHghtfiil  retreat,  in  tlie  midst  of  green 
rit'liH,  '.'ros  es,  and  tloweriiig  shrubs,  and  every  thing  bears 
the  n^.ai-h'^  (.f  opulence  and  ease.  But,  areat  opulence  is 
so  coiiuiioa  here,  an.d  all  the  works  of  utility,  beauty  and 
inainiii'icee.ce,  \\iiicli  rrsult  fr^iu  it.  that  one  wc)uld  be 
Vi:ad\  lo  cnnclude.  u>  did  IJass' las,  when  he  entered  Cairo, 
dint  CMTV  bduv  is  happy;  did  not  the  numerous  wretches 
iiiihe  street'^.  Iroin  u  lh)--f  pre>^;ii<jf  solicitations  for  relief, 
I'lifiiiccd  bv  ra'/s,  sickness,  blindness,  maiiued  limbs,  and 
(lie  e:ua>iatiou  of  htinger,  it  is  scarcely  pe.ssible  to  escape, 
'■  :;ivii:c«'  him  tiiJit  even  Ijiidand  has  ils  full  share  of  hu- 
man misiiv.  iii'd  that  it  no  where  exhibits  more  distressing 
f^pcctarles  lh;ui  in  l.endou. 


V'.i.  \M).   i;i'i.;  \\i)     .\.> 


\,.  \\.— LONDON. 

i  i 'i  1 -;  I!;;.'  |i'' -    Hi- ri'j'  .  i.;i' ui  >i  11' ,111  •!.!    —  1 1:- M'-' '.1,11! 

li    111  ;''iiii;;>    ^-  \ii     ill  W'l' i.iii    i'[    ;,!-— Hi-    ■■;::;.:;,  I,' -    i.u    ;m 
,!!•    I  'I   '  ;.•■  l,>'l,l'i  \     -  \  .!i  !:ii'  !■  -'  Ki     r,  \  .     ,j:   ■  i  I,    r.  ii^ii    [j 


IN*  ii)i:\  1  - 

./.',•/     .'.  —  ViM.'iij  ;n\   i'ltr.i'Iic:,  ii\-  Icjtn-^  :i<i  lc.    •,>   ]    ],_, 

!'■.:-.       1     r    If:  ;,-i    ,rv>    t.l      n  U  f     C  .  ■' ^  -  , :  ,    I  r ,  i      l ' .  .    [  ;  1 1  l   ^  ;  |  :  '  I  1 1 .       Nil'. 
I!  M  Ii'W  .         Ill    ill''    ii',.  :in    llini-   ll>-  ll.i'i    1  <Mir    n\  ir   Im   I  .Mii,|.,||. 

;i:|  I  mi'  NiHTt,  ,i|\-  iiMl  iiiMi  ,1  u\\  ii.;\~  ^iii'-i'  ,it  Mr. 
\\  1  vi'v.  1  i;  i\i  (  \|u  I  iriircd  ii,.iii  liiui  m  :•  I,  ri\i]:i\  ami 
\  'IN'  iimIuI  mil  III  ii  ,11-. 

I  ||'    ll.l^   ''ill'  l«  li     W  i:!l    /,l','l     itiiu     l!;i'     [i:'', :"■--!    i!Mi      't'l-.N^ 

,  iii'';i  Ii,t\  -  !ii"  :_iil  :iii'  i"  I  ,iir"in'.  .r.i.l  !i  ;^  1,  ii';!N!ii  ,  i  iiu' 
s  ilii  ■-'  \<\  a]  \i  !!■  r-  til  III-'  ,'^''  (inni  :  ^^\   I'.'i  i^.  ;i::  I  dii'  ;  -. 

I  lii~  I  A  1  ii'ji  _ .  I  ui  r,  I  lu  iii\  i;:il  h  ill  I'l  I  i!si'  !■  I  .it  111-; 
.!;•  iri  ||||  iil^.  will  ii'  I  III'  I  ^ll'.  I  liliiMi.  :rpi  !.  i,!  ^^  iii'p  ;'■■: 
Mr.  I'lilinn  I  !ri  1  ''^  \  .  ■  -■  n  ;ii  Mi.  W  ■  l"-.  TiiN  :•  ii- 
lliiiiaii  i-  .11  I'll  -■  ;;•  ;!,'•  -::'.>;!  rt  "I  <■  iri-ii  i.-i:iM''  r'.iM  v-d- 
l;iiii  ill  I  .11  '..'  :  : .  ;  11  •  ■  I  iiil  "I  iii>  pri'i'i'l--  •  ■.'  -  i')-iii  iri  •- 
'  V  |il,.-iii..  !i  V  ','.  i.i:  ■  ii  •  111.'.,  -  I"  |i'il  it  ill  ''i''  p.'-a'  ;■  ul'  ,•!! 
'ii.  II-  I  I  li'  !•  !i-i  '■'<  III-'  1\ '  •  ■  .  i!i:-i  ;i  '\  '!  .i!t  ■  ■!,  .  :  -•<'■■,■ 
r      ,      ■       ,  ■     .       ,    ',..    a;,;,i,,iil,,  .1     [■^■{^•v.     u   >•    :. 

r    ■.!  ■,     It    i-   '  'i\  i,.:;-    l'.  1^     I'l 

Ml.      i      I  i!'  .'  -       ,  -     .li      I  '!  1    -•    ill      ill'        -:l'','    I    !     Ill       ^.  'lilt 

,.     .,,.!..;,  I    :■   ,!  .  :      S'  mm    ■■'■■  1   ii:;.-iil' 


2V2  A  JOURNAL  OP  TRAVELS  IIV 

With  the  character  of  Earl  Stanhope,  as  a  distinguished 
opposition  member  of  the  house  of  Lords  you  tU  e  well  ac- 

it  is  unnecessary  to  dwell  upon  it.  Mr.  Fulton  was  supposed  in 
England  to  have  been  the  contriver  ot  ilie  infernal  machines,  sent 
in  tiie  summer  of  18'i4  to  destroy  the  French  flotilla.  This  I  have 
heard  strenuously  denied  by  a  nnember  of  l^arlianient,  and  he  de- 
nied also  that  Mr.  Fulton  ever  received  any  patronage  from  gov 
ernmcnt. 

With  respect  to  the  desti'uction  of  the  freiic!)  flotilla,  tliere  caa 
now  be  no  impropriety  in  nienlionitig  the  following  fact,  which 
was  communicated  to  me  conlidentially  in  the  summer  of  1S05, 
An  eminent  chemist  staled,  that  he  was  sent  for  by  the  minis- 
try, and  consulted  as  to  the  most  efficient  nicans  of  liiirning  the 
French  flotilla.  The  result  \\a=,  that  he  contrived  a  kind  of cannis- 
ter,  containing,  in  diflcreiit  compartrnen's,  phosphorus  and  the 
£U[)ero\igenizf;d  muriat  of  |)otasii1  ;  these  treme:idous  ingredients, 
which  every  chemist  knows,  camiot.  even  in  a  cr.refaily  cor}ducted 
experiment,  be  exploded  together,  in  a  quantify  of  more  Ih.an  a 
few  grains,  without  the  niost  imminent  hazard,  vrere  here  packed 
bi/  ounces  and  poiohls.  At  the  instant  of  their  being  thrown  on 
board,  they  v.-ere,  by  a  [)articu!ar  contrivance,  to  be  mingled  and 
ignited;  the  cflect,  in  such  large  (juantities,  must  necessarily  be, 
an  explosion  of  the  most  n\\i\\\  energy,  and  tlie  dispersion  in  eve- 
i-y  direction,  of  a  ^\vc  of  such  unrelenting  fury,  that  nothing  but 
the  instantaneous  sinking  of  the  vessel  could  cause  its  extinction. 

Perhaps  it  is  not  to  be  rpgi-etled  tliat,  owing  to  extranetuis  cir- 
*;umstances,  ((,urret:1s,  wind'',  i;c.)  none  of  these  infernal  cannis- 
ters  ever  got  on  boaid  {h;^  French  fleet,  but  tlio'^e  that  were 
thrown,  exploded  short  of  their  object.  If  is  certain  that  the 
means  of  human  destructioi:,  a=  actually  used  in  modern  war;  arc 
<o  dreadfuliy  eti'ectual,  that  there  is  no  need  of  increasing  their 
nundier  or  energy. 

The  interest  temporarily  f'dt  in  the  torpedoes,  has  ah-eady  gone 
by,  Out  the  steam  boat  navigation  of  the  United  States,  which 
g-eat  as  it  is,  is  only  just  connnencing,  will  cause  .Mr.  FultoaV 
(li'.me  to  bo  held  in  long  and  deserved  remembrance. 

Now  called  chloiafe  of  potash 


I  N.I.AM),   Jini.i.  \M>    \M»    -i.>ll.\.\a.  ^  i ;' 

4jil.lili;r,i  ;      in      1-   ;i1m)    (ii-.tiii',:ui^ll'ii     ill    this     CTMilrV     :.-    U 

;ji' ,il  p,i;:Mii  ni  ihiliiical  ,iii<l  iiiri  l.a'ur.il  j'i..,i<-iv.  He  j^ 
|i.i'!ii'<it.u  !\  |i.iil:.ll  1. 1  A  ilU'l  i(  .lu^  lifi'  iii-r  lii- A  ;il-f  |.!-r- 
■■iiiiHtl  ti'  Iif.  Ill  coiii^.',  ,1  jiiihli  (ins  :  airl  im  ii  ni  v(  n  ::r«- 
.w  I  I  '1  iii\ '  Hi  :\  r  'j'tiiiis  IIP  I  I  \\  i(li  lii>  |i  II  iiriil  u'  atl?  lil.'Ui. 
t)i  r,i;st  In-  is  ic:i|i\  a  ili-iiii'_ui-lii(|  iiii'i-liaiiiciaii.  aii«l  :j'  ii- 
ti  ui\     I  jialrmi  I'l   i.-ipKivciiit  Ills  w  li  '.sc  nlijrcl  i>  [>iai-i'.ia! 

t).   .a   .il    I..   Ill   !i!;^!li.!. 

!li-  I'  I'lisiiiji  ^  a;ji.  aiaiicc  \\as  prii'ii:!\  |il  am.  aii'i 
"■■•M  III  ■.•■]■  iia\<  li'ii  aiu  Hill'  i>i  sii-|i'<i  liial  !,•■  w  ;  -  a 
laU'l'Miiaii  :  ills  •[•  jMaliin'iiI  was  \rrv  aHalili'.  aii'l  !•  a,  iM  •! 
ill!  1  !ii'i;a !  as>M:.  i;;»  ;.i  cdiiN  ••!  saimn.  Iiiiiiis  ii.  \  ■■.  a 
liM'iiii.'  [.  a;  I.  aai!  it  liaaa  li  [n  iiK  ij.allN  na  l(  i|.ir«  i  a  •)  >  '  '  -l 
\.  .ill  I  la  liii^ti  V  aii'l  iiiicliauH  s.  \\  ilh  llirsc  ,  ,.ii  .  ris  la" 
.iiiji'MU'.l  |m  Im'  t\i.  iisivi-lv   a(a|iiaiiU<ai. 

i  ini''    Wis    a    (  II  1 111,111    l,iil\    |a  I  -I  lit     ix  i.a._   >,  ^    ■  •    .as 

'iil\  :    si,,-  \i  ,1,  [,,  :  I,  ,|  ;ijiii._  iiii.iii  till'  [liaaii.  .h.      :,'  -    -i  .'.- 
•-a;,p    iai.'iaiiil    iia'    llial    siali  win-  hn   i.iiiaH-  ;■  i   iii    -a  ,ii 
I  ■  aiiji'iMlam.  I'.il   -iir  \Miulii  ijI'lii    ]ii,i\    nli'iia'    lilii-i   .lil's. 
'  Ml  ia|i.ii  ■  .    ami    liais    iIum-    di  lij  lit  iiil  t  tiusi.  ai^  .  iT  -taiia* 
-,  ■  1  .■   i;  naaa.  ,  I  ,i'il  ,    !   .a  .     |.  ir  si  i,  ■  c  .ii|,  1     i  a  \  .  i'   i  •  [  ,t  ,il    ll,.  a' 
i'ia.Mi  \  a  i.iii.  a.      'I  H  ,i!  i .  ~i  iIk  -.■  lli  .  Iiul  I.  una!'  s  ,  ,|  ; ,  a  - 
'.  aiw  111'  lia-i  :as'  i.: i  li  ,i  inn-aail  la-liiiiiii  a'  --ai'.i.ii   i.i  ili'' 
I  a,  Ml.  1.  '\  ii.'i  lli'    l^l■\  -  .  a  \^  lii.'Ii  li.'  Iiaa  1  iiiiii-  I'll  '.  .1  ur  ■  ll.a!- 
a  1 1 .  i  i    r  I  M 1 1 1 1  \ .  I  a  1  '  ■  w  1 1  a  a  1  1 1 1  r  I  - ^ .  1 1  .  i \    i  a  .  I  >  . i  1 1 1 >  w  :  i    I  a  i  ■    1 1  ra  - 
a     .is     1  i-I  ,i>    il    w  a-    1  j|a\  I  .!.    I  ia-  -  i  aia   i.n  .\  .a  .i  a!     n;     lli' 
ki  \-   jii.-aiiai   J   ll  all    1  la  .  t-.       ll    ili.^    iii\i  lii..'M    |s    Ml     I- 
iiii[ii  a  I  nil   I'l  111-' I.  \i  a' I  ,i-  ill  M   la  I '.a-   ii:  I'a  a  :'   ■    -    "•    ~.  II    -tl 
!■  .iM   !:  1^  ll.i-  lia  1  ',t   ii;   lan-)!  ■    aa  . 

I  1 1  -  !  ii '  i  -ll :  j  1  I  -  I  a  llir  1  'j  I  jT  >:  a  ai.  ami  js  \  i  i  \  w  i  ' 
!.!,i.\\  a  111  ll.i\  1  -li.ia  ll  (i-a.:  1  '-.  I.i..,  ...  1,  .,  I  1,.  [,.',!  ur 
■'    :'  la;  aiaia  ;    m  .:  tm    pa  .  'W    ].■■  \  a  ,- 


2 14:  A   JOT'RNAL   OF    TRAVELS   IN 

ble,  and  he  ^poke  warmly  against  tlie  right  of  piimogenr- 
ture  and  the  vast  difference  between  the  condition  of  the 
iich  and  of  the  poor  in  England.  I  must  confess  I  find  it 
no  easy  task  to  reconcile  myself  to  the  profusion,  frivolity 
and  splendour  of  too  niaviy  of  the  English  gentry,  contrast- 
ed with  the  inevitable  poverty  and  wretchedness  of  great 
numbers  of  the  lower  classes ;  but  I  should  never  have  ex- 
pected to  hear,  from  the  mouth  of  an  English  nobleman, 
a  declaration  that  primogeniture  is  unreasonable.  It  is 
not  easy  to  see  how  his  lordship  reconciles  his  republican 
notions,  with  iiis  aristocratical  practice.  lie  said  that  all 
would  have  been  well  in  England,  if  the  French  revolution 
had  not  taken  the  unhnppy  turn  it  did,  but  now,  they  were 
going  on  with  one  unnecessary  war  after  another,  and  the 
country  was  groaning  under  six  hundred  millions  of  debtj 
'I  sum  which  all  the  land  of  Great-Britain  and  Ireland,  if 
sold,  would  not  j)roduce. 

Jitne  3. — At  a  dinner  in  the  city,  to-day,  T  met  !;u  em- 
barrassment which  is  too  often  experienced  in  Enn'and. — 
The  party  was  large,  and,  as  usual,  began  to  converge  on 
their  own  pers(inal  toj/ics,  and  I  to  look  forward  to  tlie  eu- 
tertalinncnt  of  my  own  reflections. 

But,  I  soini  cjuiie  to  a  re-ohition  to  attempt  a  share  ih 
iiie  conversation,  and  accordinirly  addressed  myself  to  ;i 
young  Iwiuiishman,  who  sat  n<-\t  to  me  ;  but  I  was  not 
Ibrtimate  in  t!ic  choice  of  my  sni)ject.  for  the  conversation 
was  not  sujjported  ;  l  asked  hi)n,  next,  concerning  the  cer- 
emonies of  tlie  king's  birth-day,  which  is  to-morrow,  bul 
of  this  he  kiiciv,"  nothing — and  then,  whether  his  majesf. 
was  not  an  cx'.'i.'llt'ut  horseman.  I  now  fi)!nid  that  1  had 
touched  the  riu'lil  "-trinfj.  for.  the  yoimg  gentleman  lielong- 
-d  to  a  volunt'.'er  ci.'i-ps  of  '.';iva'rv;  from  tliat  moment  v." 


KN.IVVn,    HOII.Wl)     \M)     <     Oii 


oiiI'Ti  il    into  , I    \i'r\  ^jui  itid  (iiiu  (  i  -  iiion   ii)iii!i    jnii^i^  — 

lliirst'm.l!lslli|) till'      VullllIt'iT       s\^trii  — l'-,,i,iirlr       ;iiul 

till'  iii\  >i-iii!i.  aihl  ill  till'  •■\riit,  till-  (•■■iiv  fi  ■^iitiiiii  lirraiiif 
;.•'  ;i'  1  il.  <.i\>[  till'  r\riiiii_'  >i\\,-  i,<.'  i!ii'  m  i-t  jili-.i^iiiit  tiiat  I 
tii\''    -|ii  II'  III   lilts  I'lHiiitiv.      fill     Mniii'j   iilViriT    (iT  (lia- 

:' i>    i;  ivi'    mr  lli^  aM'lr'->  aii<l    iii\iliM|  mc  tn  attnid  one 

(il  {''\<-  r.'\  u'w  s  oi'  |;|^  riiriw.  ami  to  \  i>it  hi  in  at  ( 'lajili  iiii. 
I  h''  ti'iirli  -I  •Mii>  to  IkmImI  llii'  r.irjli-'li  air  oltm  n'stTN- 

0  i  aii'l  ivill  iioi  iionldi'  llii'iiivi  K  ,'s  to  roiurr^f  unli  Mui, 
i!  \"i  an-  v\'''  '.;  To  iiin  nil  silrni.  'I"li.-  rfaMiiiahli'  iiio- 
ii'-i\  aial'i.  '  1,1  •■  iiT  ,1  slraiiL'i  1.  tlii'v  a|i|»i'ar  to  ini>tak'' 
|oi  siii|ii,|lt\-  ,ii  1  jaoi  ,iii('i'.  aibl  aliiiiMinli  )1,,.\  ijo  not  want 
li;  I'l  iiiii,  ;it  to  ili^ci.wr,  or  ^jiiiit  to  ii'tai'<<  iiii[Mi(liiic'* 
ail'!  \  aiiii\ .  i'ii\  \^  ill  not  iliiiiiv  inurli  ol  \  mi.  it'  \- oil  lia\o 
not  a  'joo'l  -liaif  oi'  >-•■ll-j)o-vl■v^il.n  ami  coat'iiliiii  c  in  yoiir- 
'  U. 

II<  111:  ,;ii"_'  laniii'.  alu.iit  trii  o"i  lock  al  ni'_'Iit,  I  oli^.  rvi'tl 

'  'iif  wl    tih  ivi'    JitiK-   <ii '  !'■<    w  ill.  Il  .irr  \  I'l'v  conimoii  111  tin' 

»'i  '■■■I-  '.I    I  ..p:!,i,,ii  :    I  all  !.!■•  I'.  la  •  .uhiii'inc^  u  liii  h  ■•'atin  r 

aioiiii'l  tin-  liilla'l    sii'.'i'i'^.       TiK's''  a.i''    ii--iMl!\    po'ir    w'o- 

1  !i.    Ill"    liiil.'    ■jiiN.    \\;(||    r\  'i\-  a[i]PMra:i'i'    I'l    ixtnnii' 

\  ■  !  u  .  w  !  .1  •■,,ll..  I    I  ;.-A    |M  ail'  !i\  -in.inL'  ''all  aU  at  the 

nii'is    III    till-  vir.  I  1-.    ii:i.,'i  r  ill'-   how-u  in  .oa  -    ol  viio|i<. 

■  \    I'li'    |iMiiir.M'>    oT    piilihr     I.  ii!o;:r^-.        \lllioii-jh    tiii-ir 

>.(,;ii  >  I'll'  ii-ii:i!l\    h  ir-'i.  Ipiin   h.  iii'_'  -o  mii  n  i  Mil'il,  ami 

I'p  !i   ;  ii-i  l.a  ninirr^  la  r\  iTv  ri--|  m  n  iin  linrri  ul .  tin  \    iiiinii- 

.    It  1  w  a  I  mil-  .11. Mill. i  ami  .!i  laia  ih-i'i  a    i'aij   liini'. 

.^.  ,!!•       :i.|.   inaii    I'lr!  im1\.    -o,m-  Imai  |in>.    ■■•"1  -mm-  to 

1  111  ',^   |iM.  ki  !s  :    il].    i,i;i.  |-  I  ;  .->.  ImiiIK   i-\  m    l.ol  to  liihi  -.nii- 

.  ,  t>  III  ,■;■  1  ,  .  I ,  ,,\  .1.  I.I'  .    I  III  mi  I'll  lli.'-i    w  h.i  j.!i..'.\   I , loij 

•    \ri-  tii.i    111.  ai-i  1^|■■^    111    tiii.ii!_ -.  uith    mmh    iiriiinni. 


2l6  A    JOT-RNAL    OF    TR AVFLS    I\ 

about  them,  there  are  always  novices  enoiia:ii  whom  curi- 
osity attiiicis,  and  isnorance  of  the  arts  of  pick-pockets 
readers  insensible  totlieir  dancer. 


No.  XYI— LONDON. 

riie  king's  hirlli  da) — Piilacft  of  S(.  James — Court  dress — Enibai' 
rHs?meiit  from  hoop  petlicoKts — Contest  of  coachmen — Pro- 
cession of  mail  coaches — Splendid  equipages — Pressure  of  tbt 
crowd. 

Tilt:  KINGS  BIRTH  DAY. 

June  !. — Tiiis  is  his  majesty's  birtli  day,  and  after  din- 
ger I  folhjwed  the  current  to  St.  James'  palace  to  see  the 
parade  on  the  occasion.  Tlie  jialace  makes  but  an  in- 
diiferent  ajjpearaiice  :  it  is  a  plain  l)rick  buildina;  of  an  ir- 
reiifular  form  in  some  parts,  and  ^vhere  it  is  reffular,  It  has 
oiilv  oi!<' story ;  this  part  extends  a  considerable  distance 
and  ;.iiv('s  it  tiic  appL'arance  of  a  nKvnuJ'actory,  or  rajige  ol 
low  warc-liouses.  7'he  [)alace  was  erected  by  Henry 
\  SIL  and  is  now  used  only  for  stat'"  puiptiscs,  as  the  r()^a! 
family  .icvcr  reside  in  it.  Dni-ing  their  winter  residence 
ticd.r  town,  (for  they  riever  five  aciuaily  in  J^cndon.)  they 
reide  in  l-urkiui^liani  Jiousc,  mIucIi  is  known  by  tlie  nam*' 
o!   ihe  '  ■:  ecn"s  ])ajace. 

On  this  occasion,  St.  .fames"  stre(!t  and  all  die  streets 
ieiiiliu':'  to  St.  .lames'  palace,  were  crowded  nitli  si)Ien<lid 
ci-uipaijcs,  cavah-y.  sed<i!)  ch.iirs,  soliiiers.  and  tiiousands 
o.''e-..",!!uon  iiau1:d-..      i  ';ad  not  'mk'  n  ;niv  .'^(eps  to  e>bt;ilri 


iNf-Lwo,  MAri wn   AM)  ?foTi  \Nn.  -'17 

Hilinissiitii  into  lli'-  iialac.',  ami  ilic;.  I<.rr  ^  iw  iioihin,!  iixirr 
lliaa  uliat  cmtn   1>o(I\   in  ilir  >in(i>  mi'hf  -n-. 

A-<  the  iiiihlliiv  caiiic  mit  ui  lh<-  |ialac.-  to  -it  iiitu  lliui 
cr'aclics.  I  haii  an  ii|i|Mirlimiiy  of  •;rtiii'_'  ilifin  in  ;l:i  n  coin' 
'!ii'>'-.  <  )n  roniiuou  oii-;!v|on^  ll:i'  nohiliiy  arc  iioi  lii-tai- 
i:ui<lii'il  |i\  ill.  ir  iln'-N  Hoii)  otluT  nit'ii.  liui.  oii  the  K!li'_'^^ 
birth  iiav.,in(l  ollin  LM>'.a  <la\>  ol  vtalf.  tlifir  a|);'i  aianci' 
IS  \(r\  sjili-nilitl.  l;aL' \\  !.:>.  Inll->1<  r\i'<l  and  llow  in/ I'o.ii-. 
unl  lon^  uai-ico:ii>  sn|irr!'K  rnilii oiiicrt  il.  Lir'_'f  ^!ll■' - 
bncki' >.  s>'t  \s  itii  L'l'iuv  or  inillatioiix  o!' lliiin.  an. I  ^wiaiK 
iiv  tlnir  siiio.  wi'ir  ilif  |iriaci|ial  [n  rnhai  ili<'s  uhicli  1  oI»- 


Tii.'  jaiiii  N  uoii'  lioop  jiriiicoai<:  liic  hoop  u, is  i;.Ma 
ciii  |i.\  l>ut  a  lai'/e  o\  al.  'I  he  [irtlifoal  \\  .is  no!  s'llh  I'l  1 
to  ll.iw  in  natural  I'oliU,  l>nt  \va-<  divtcndiil  hy  rUiplical 
lini's.  likf  a  sc,.o[]-n''I.  aiid  uli"' !''d  all  o\ir\\r,ii  ^.'.m-; 
an'l  sp.in'jh'--.  Ilin  llnn' \s  as  ,i  s,  ri,,ns  dillicnltv  alt'  iidm:^ 
till'  [losiiioii  (il  the  lioo|(.  Tlir  lou'^r.t  (liaiin  t' I  \\  as  at 
vij'it  an^U-.s.  wiio  tin"  lad\"s  patii.  and  sin'  must  tin n  liat' 
iiri  fss,iril\  rr(|tini-  no  surill  s[ia<'i>  to  ualk  in:  !i:i,  this 
•^jiai-r  u.is  not  to  |)t'  liad,  lor.  the  L'a|iin'_r  croud,  hi'ini; 
\M'd  jfd  ;ts  (  |,  1^0  as  thf\'  (  (iiild  -land,  ami  |ii''ssin"  ioi  w  aid 
to  L'l/.''  o  I  ill-  i.HT  ol'iioiidiiv.  would  iiju  II  onlv  a  iiariow 
laiK-  lor  iho  <o  n  li' is.  in  this  di|.  inni  i.  iii^t  nnil\  -t>;od 
reads  at  lln c.ill  i,f  ir'ci  s^it  \ .  mid  1  ii-  iaiiii's.  as  tin  \  [MssciI 
linonjii  dio  fi  o\\.d.  conn  i\  I'd  t'M\\  i-l  tin'  w  liolo  loaclnnrry 
1  ■  iMld.  SI,  ,^^  to  hiiii'j  till'  sl;o!  (•  -t  oiniH  ti'l  ari,  ,ss  dii'  |i;ilil. 
r>ni.  \:il'i  ;dl  this  aid  ||o;m  nijinnilv,  it  was  no  snrul 
m  lin'\»'nh  at  lo  ('■  jiosii  ,,,,  ,,i'  tin-  1  idiis  s,ili  1\  in  hi  r 
■  •i>ai  h  ;  a  soidi'i.  Willi  li\id  tiasipiiit.  and  lun  ta'  thi'O 
oMtiin  n  wi-nt  1/1  |oi  (■  to  .  il  .0'  till  \\  as .  and  two  oi  thn  f 
''  'otiiii'ii  li.llo\M  i  to  (  l.'-i'  ;i  :  ill  Mini''  In.slaiKf.s  Imth  luids 
■    a  .  r.  I') 


;cl?  A    JOrUNAl.    OF    TRAVELS    IN 

and  lad/ei,  were  borne  to  their  carr'uiges,  or  even  quile 
away,  in  sedan  chairs. 

It  was  amnsing  to  hear  the  speeclies  of  the  mob,  on  the 
occasion;  they  seemed  to  consider  it  as  a  spectacle,  ex- 
hibited for  their  diversion,  and  they  ir>ade  very  free  with 
the  gentry  as  they  passed.  An  officer  ajiparenlly  of  rank 
in  the  army,  wlien  closing  the  door  of  his  sedan  chair,  had 
the  misfortune  tosliut  itiipontSie  top  of  his  gallant  featlier, 
wliicli  drew  the  li;it  oi'i  from  his  head  as  he  sat  dow  n  ;  the 
women  in  the  crowd  raised  a  broad  laugh,  looking  in  at 
the  win'iows,  and  giimiing  in  his  face,  but,  he  had  the 
gooii  sense  and  good  nature  to  laugh  with  them,  while  he 
adju^ti'd  his  hat,  and  moved  on  in  much  good  huiDour. 

There  was  a  great  procession  of  coaches,  extending  a 
mile  or  two,  and  there  v.as  much  emulation  among  the 
coachmen  who  should  be  first.  I  saw  a  contest  of  this 
kind,  which  last(>d  a  great  part  of  the  way  down  St. 
James'  street.  Tv»o  coaches  were  contending  for  the 
precedency,  but  they  were  abreast,  and  so  conijdetely 
wedged  on  all  sides  i)y  the  throng,  that  neither  could  gain 
the  ad.vantage,  alihough  every  time  the  Hood  moved  on  a 
little,  the  coacnuian  whipped  and  pushed  the  hordes, 
which  were  spuitr'd  and  ready  to  fly  away  with  the  car- 
ria;fes.  At  i(M!t;th  the  tliiug  became  so  dangerous  to  the 
safety  of  those  around,  that  the  dragoons  rode  up,  anti 
with  their  broad  swords,  arranged  the  point  of  honour  — 
The  fellow  who  was  ordered  int'»  the  rear.  sui)jnitted  with 
H  sullen  air,  while  his  competitor  triuinjtheJ,  and  the  mob 
raised  a  loud  laugh. 

fkside  the  f)i-ivate  carriages,  there  was  a  showy  pro- 
cession of  all  the  mail  coach(!s  in  the  city  ;  the  coachmen, 
j^juards.  and  servants  were  dressed  in  scarlet ;  the  trapjiiugt; 


IS'    !    \  \i),     inLI.  \M>      \N!> 


\M   1  1^    <„    liif    ■>  l!ll'     CillllMr,      illl'l    .111     W      I.        I    m;       ■     !■        ;     \      Ulll.- 

i,l'-.|  .III  I  (iiTiiral  i!.  l'lll>  irK'lilii!!  \  ;il\s  ,i\  >  Mki  ■-  ciir. 
iin;iii'  kii)."v  liii  ill  li.i'. .  |p'r,iii>''  ti:.'  p  '>!-". !u-''  il';i:iii- 
iiiMi!.  w'i'ui  .ill  ii^  -'TV  Mil-,  i>  (  iiii-:.i'Ti";    ;'^    'ii  ap;  ■■M' '  !  _''• 

m|    ti;r   CidW  11. 

'I'lic   <M:i>-i:r>    1,1    siiiiii'   111    til.'  ii.)!r!l:t\    \; .  n     <  •.: ;  ■  ,■;.  i  . 
»|ili'U  iiil  :    Miiiii'  I'l  I  Im'iu  \\  '■!(•  i\<'\.  '  \    :.:.!  U\  I'.i  i  •!:;■',>■  i--  1  ■! 
I'll-  IK  r. 1^1,  III.  mill  \\i-\,'  (DSiMi'.i  \'  i';i  >|iai,_!i->  ai;  1  :  "I.  .  ia 
ill.'  :\[\'  1  i,i  _■  >!  \  |i-  III  ;■. i\  -'!i.i|i  III,'  :  va       I  ai-  !i\  >  r\    ■;  i  ii. 
I'l'ir.iiai  \\  1^     I'-ip  '_  ri'l\   aii'i  !  i!'''t   :  -(Mi  I  i    t  ai    I  '.(  li-"  j  i  r'. 
'rii.'\    u 'a.'   !.i'-"  i|.,i   oiiK    i.a  I'l'-    'I'liiiiM-.    'lit     nil    ,.!';    liir 
s'm:ii>  111  t!i>  if  ,  iiaiii  ii'^.  aii'l  tii'i.'  lai'/i-  i-nii  ;i  ii  i'.^  \^i|i" 
-  I!  ;iMiiii|i''l   \v  iiii  III.  a  i  Ii  i:i-_'.v  ul^iis    r  cr  ■.■■■I'l.      <  'a  -'i-''" 
(i>r.|-ii'a>    1  ~  1  ai'^i-.  It  i>  a  pnai'  ul'  vi .   it  .i:..''  ' ;.  mi  to  ii'-pl.' _\ 
till'    liiifst     1  'lui'ia  ■■■.     aa.l    !:;■■     r  a.liai  .  a,-     laiiaiN    i.l     lii' 
rii  iijir'iiiirs   ;ii''   i:-'i.i';.   a  i";~ri.i    !,-.    ,.  i.. 'l-iai.    \\;.  -ai   : 
1 1!  a  r    i-.iiii'.'.  !■  1  I  tin  ■  111-  1    1    '••"-_  a/''"  1  .       <  >...    ■  n  ai    j  n,-' 
cI    1  11)  i!a;  ,>  '11  i-    111    r\ri'|    ,: '!  1  ■;',  ai^  ill    1 1  )i '  11  a  11 '  I ).  r  i  •  I  li  i 'I 
iiii-a.       "^' '  a     "I  I  a--  n    irl,--  h  i.i  T  A  ,  i.  t !, i .  i ■ .  ,, .,.  |  i  \  i  a  I'lai 
l'"i!!ll'  11     -"..II  111, J    a'l.     Hl'l  l.'iiai'i      ii;i    ','  a.ail   Ila'   I    ar;  l'.;r. 

Ii'il   I   ;.!ii'a  1 1  a-  ixi,  ,;i,iii  i    ,(   mii..  riiiiiu'  i.;l\    lal'-    na     lai 

(■  la  !i;ii  1  ]'■  !i'i\.  1  In  .1  I'li'iaiiai  an'  In  ija-  iri'.  ■  •  '  . 
Ii  11  I-  1  i:  \"  '  la  11,1  II  ;  |i'  i-"iial  !i.  .iiilv  sirm,  Iwi  i'l  ,i  :' 
iliri'MlMll  i|aali:i  ala'M  Im  lii'ir  "..la.a-.  l.'Hiaill  iiiii- 
t  II  a-  .1  i  1 1.  Ill'  'iii  i~  iiaailn  r  .  :  tin  v,  :  —  |     |,,n  ,    In    ii  'i  it    ,i>- 

^'   .  I<  'I    ti.i!    la.   ■  .■    a      •    IW.   ;,I\    til. HI-  II:    1, 

I  'ii'l    im!    -■■■  ;!i"  i.i\  il  .■>;  ail  !  ■.'.      li  ■.-,  IS  ,.■,  i',,.  ,,t!:.  ■ 

"•'■I'    "■  '''■■  I'  !'  "■'■■  .111!  II  'A  a-   i;iiai'-M'.!'    I •  1  In   it  t!ii.  ui  ai 

t'l'    1  I   'W  I.       la  N  1  'i    ,1-  ii   \\  1-     I   ha:   111;  M  i;    iMiai',    i'l  .-- 
''■':"    iiaai  \  .    Ii.r    -a  ii   v..;-     I'ai'    I  lua.li.    ,,i.i\    ll,i 


^l  a  1]    ■     ,!ll 


I' 

t:  'ai  '  imi 


-lil\  ia    ,    i',  .;    tl 


I'll-  w  ,!-,  11,1    ■  ,11,,; 


r  I'! 


!l.-\  I   1     W  ,1- 


il'l''  "I    ill.'  ilii  ,ii;u;l  i'i. 


:;'2U  A    JO?.'nNAl.    OP    TRAVELS    I\ 

sure  of  a  city  crowd  ;  the  streets  terminating  at  tlie  palace 
all  poured  t'n'ir  thousands  to  one  centre,  and  it  was  my 
■ortune  to  find  a  place  just  at  this  point.  Perceivinef  that 
die  pressure  was  fast  Ijecoming  g^reater  than  was  either 
pleasant  or  safe,  1  endeavoured  to  withdraw,  but  in  vain  j 
I  was  precisely  in  the  situation  in  which  the  mechanical 
philosophers  inform  us  that  a  !)ody  will  remain  at  rest, 
that  is,  I  was  equally  pressed  on  all  sides,  and  remained 
iast  enclosed  in  this  nrr-.it  mass  of  liuman  bodies,  till  the 
•stationary  tide  of  flood  i):^gan  to  ebb,  when  1  was  borne 
^.tlong  with  the  ceueia!  current,  ami  escaped. 

We  were  exposed  to  some  danger  from  tlie  horsegfuards, 
ttliich  weie  stationed  in  St.  James'  street,  to  keep  the  pas- 
■^agc  open  for  the  coaclies ;  for.  v/hilc  we  were  urged  for- 
ward, !)y  the  arci.'fiulatinn-  crowil  ii;  our  reai'.  we  were  re- 
•jrc^scd  !);/  the  cr-Aalry  in  trout,  who,  when  we  had  pushed 
on  loo  far,  rode  in  ;-i'.noi)-i  us,  \\i!h  I'rawn  swords,  and  it 
'vas  our  c<  is'iein.  to  <^ve  ihat  uir  iih'bian  leet  were  not 
n-u^^iivd. 

'j-'his  evcuiit'.:  t'lo  wu.dows  c^fhis  mrijesty'.s  tradesmen 
jv-'^  b'-i'Uantiy  ilhiiriinati'd  with  lamp"  of  various  hues,  so 
-^T-'urrrii  a=  to  r':'nre-.'  n;  crowns  atif!  other  app-ropriato 
fiiiure-.  ill''  iv;'(i':'Sii:t  n  who  iiavc  (!if  honom' of  his  ma-' 
jestv's  }"K.it!oira-ie.  or  v.  ho  at  least  f,frisl  of  it  on  their  si'j'n- 
hoanis.  are  so  numerou-.  thai  ti  ■-  >tr..A'K  look  vriy  's.iy  nu 

■'he  nrr:)'i'<Xf. 


fN'.l.WI),    ItoLI.  \NI)    WD    ?(OII.  \\r). 


\o.  WII  — L(»M)()\ 


Pvi-vii-w    <>l    v.iliiii!i''T 'I'lir    park r.xh'il'iliiMl    ni   \'. ■]■:'.]')_■<    f 

S.imiT-.'t  HiMiM'  — llow  i'>liin:(it>i|  liy  ill. If  \\||.i  liaw  -I'rii  Ih' 
l.oiivp' — I'iii-  l.:in<M^t«M'l.i;i  ^rluM  il--0.!,!ily  nt  j.imi  !,  mcnl  iL.  .  »■ 
— Cuokc    III    Ju.  ii.uM    III  —I'. Hill. Hill-     lid-pii.il  — l)r     T 

Trnii.l--l'  ri".M  — I'r  ^h.iu  ^-Mr-,  Kii-ulr--]lc;-  t,,l..  I  -  ,■  .rl 
at'.uiiiiii-Mi- 

\  i;r.\ii w 

,/////"  ^i. —  i  ^ii'Mil  si'Vt  Till  Iniiii-;  tills  iiMniiirj  in  ;i!'<ii,t- 
iii'.:  a  ri'si.'w  nt' \  .iliiiilfri-s  in  II\il<'  I'aik.  I'.y  -mni'.  t'lil^ 
-\st.'iii  dl' \  (I'linli'tT  (ii'lmci'  i>  {■(■■:  n-l'''!  a-  a  n  'li'Mi.i!  pal- 
hi'liiiii.  aii'l  !>v  ntluT-^  a^  a  111' ri'  [la  _:i:'iit.  r;;!i-  :!■.•,!■.  |  \o 
aiiiu>i'  tlir  ciHiati'v  into  a  liUr  si'ciirity.  l*r'>'ii'iK  t!r 
triii!i  !;■■-  'i  -I  A  ■■>■  1  til''  11.  Inl  im  mii'  c  vi  i  j'lr^ti.Mi  t'n!  it 
ni'i-t  111-  a  1  I'M'.-II.  'W  tliiiij  |m  |)in\,,l.'  N.i  iiia!i\  nun  \vii!i 
a:   11--    111  1'  1  I  '  n'li  l!ii'  :i  i  ni'ir  i!--!'. 

Till'  ri'Si.w  tii-ilt\  allni'!!'!  Iiltl''  w  iiii'li  is  111  t  i:^''  !l!\ 
^fi'W  Mil  >ni  !i  iirc.t-iMns.  I  la'  wriilirr  wa^  '.■•lini,  ,i..\<\ 
t'lir  r'":i  iii'ii!>  w a  1 .  iii\ .  i]  \  (■  I  m  i  Ion.  !■-  nl  ihist.  '|'|:i»  nrr- 
VfiU' i|  iii\  oliiain::!/  a>".'il  1 1!  I  Iii'  l\  iir/.  w  Im  was  jais- 
r:M.  1 1^1  I  ll  !•!  a  jlini|<sr  dl  III.'  I'l  iina'  oT  W'ali  -.  \\  i;..  'A  a> 
.>!1  ;i..'--i^!i  n  is.  s.iriMaiiiinl  li\  aU'-ia  i  an! -.  II'-  ->".  .ic  a  lil.a- 
iiir  ''  T'a,  ,ri  I  ';.-   |i.  :-siin  i^  ii.  i-a-  I  ii  ::••  ,iii.  i  r.  m|  inl--'.  it. 

II  \  !•■  IVi'  'v  is  a  tim-  pl,a  a-  I,  h  1(-\  ii'\\  s.  It  r.ia'aiiis  li,-. 
tu  '  ■  I!  lin-i-.-  an.i  l..'n-  lani.n  .  ,1  a^i  i  s  ,,;  ^  ;  .inia  I.  an' I  it  tnr- 
nniK  i"T  ijii<-.i  a!Hii;i  ^.y  hnni'ii'.L  ln-i.iri.  Ki-ii-!:'-_'(on 
<iai.i'i;s  \v  ii '■  f,i',<  M  nil' IiM:a  it.  Tlir  |.ai 'ss  \(  hicli  li,  at 
I'll'  U'-t  •  ::.|  i|  I. nil,],, 11  ai-.-  drli-'lit  Inl  la-lrt  ats  ir.  ..ii  liir 
III  M-i-  .Mi.  I  c  .  'I  ill  ni  1 1  a.r  . .;  tin  <i\\  .  V  11  Ih'ciIm  r  I  ini.i-_.ia' 
ll'..  \'  iniis!  or;  i-pv-  I  i._lit    linn,  in  1 1  oi   i  .nr  iIumis  na.]  at  ri  s  ,  [ 


222  A   JOURNAL    OF    TRAVELS    IiN 

Ground,  wliich  is  diversified  with  fine  rows  of  trees; — sin- 
e!e  trers  here  and  th(Te — gravelled  walks — lakes — canal« 
—palaces  on  their  confines,  and  frequently  an  innumera- 
ble multitude  of  carriages  and  people. 

EXIJFBITION  OF  PALMINGS. 

Jane  J. — I  have  been,  in  company  with  Mr.  and  Mr^. 
Gnost,  tosee  the  paintings  h)  Somerset  House.  Somersei 
llou/^  is  a  vast  quadrangular  building  of  stone,  so  arrang- 
ed as  to  form  a  complete  hollow  square.  It  was  formerly 
a  pa'ace,  l)ut  is  now  used  by  the  government  for  a  great 
variety  of  public  offices,  and  in  it  are  the  rooms  of  the 
royal  and  antiquarian  societies,  and  of  the  royal  academy. 

In  tac  apartments  of  the  latter  there  is  an  annual  exhibi- 
tion of  all  the  productions  of  the  pencil  for  the  preceding 
year,  which  have  any  claims  to  distinction,  and  of  such 
otliers  as  liave  never  been  exhibited  before.  They  are 
suspetiiK'il  principally  in  one  vast  room,  the  walls  of 
whicli  are  completely  covered  with  them,  not  to  mentioa 
several  siiialler  apartments.  This  year,  the  separate  pie- 
ces ainoinit  toaliout  eight  hundred,  and  they  are  said  to  be 
le-s  numerous  than  in  former  years.  The  object  of  this  dis- 
pl;iv  aojiears  to  be  to  gratify  |)ublic  curiosity,  to  excite 
<.>mulation,  b_\  a  comparative  exhibition  of  the  works  of 
diflerent  artists,  and  to  promote  the  sale  of  the  pieces,  by 
exposing  them  to  pul)lic  view.  1  was  higldy  gratified 
v,i{h  this  collection,  which  I  have  visited  once  before, 
and  piobably  shall  visit  aaain.  llngland  has  now  a 
great  many  painters,  and  the  fine  arts  generally  are 
jniich  cultivated.  Our  countrymen  who  have  recently 
vi-iitcd  I'aris,  and  seen  the  glories  of  the  l.ouvre,  affect  to 
Jesoi'-''  'h*'  nainti)igs  in  Enuhmu,  and  speak  of  the  exht- 


f:M.!    \M),    HOLLAND      \  M»     -(  (VI  L  \  M».  2j. 

Dilioii  ;il  S.iiiiiixt  House  as  a  tii\ial  I'liaj^.  'Ilirv  a-srii 
that  ilii  our  rail  liasi'  a  I'l^t  idi  a  oi'  tin  jn  il"i clioiH  nl"  llii- 
;  t  willioiit  \isiiiii_'  I'aiis.  (  )l  tlli^  iiiatlii-  1  am  nut  i 
;'i  !ji'.  1  lia\i'  \i  iiturni  Iiowcmt  Id  nm  I'n-  ii>k  ul  hfiiii; 
|)|t'a^i'il  \\'h\i  till'  |)  liiitiiius  tirSMiiiia^'t  llniix-,  ami,  a- 
Ainti  i(:an>  i  laiin  lil>rit\  ol'  all  miii>  a>  tln'ir  hiitiiiiL'lu,  1 
luipt-'  I  ina\  fii|(i\  tlif  pi'iv  ill  u«' "I  hi  iiii_^  pli  ax'd,  ami  ol 
sa\iir4  so,  without  hciii^  cuiii|irlli-(i  to  [I'wi-  ica-ous  lor  it. 
Ainoni:  the  pifliirfs  that  inn n  ^n  il  iiic  iiios(.  wen- a  lull 
It'll  th  portrait  ol'  Mr.  i'o\  ;  —  oiu  of  .Milton,  jjliuil.  and 
diclatiiiLr  I'ar.i.lisr  lost  to  his  dan  •hnr^.  \v  ho  act  as  aiiian- 
iifii-i-s : — a  iloiiit'>tn-  src'iK' — a  jjiasc  aunt  l.illtn  aslt.cp  in 
her  chair  ami  h-'i'  truant  nrice  ♦■lo|iin'_'  ;  inid  the  ini|>ris(jn- 
eii  ilehtor,  ami  inoiiiinL,  l>v  >ir.losliiia  IJeviioMs. 

'iiir.  F.  \.Nc  \-'ir.i;i  \n  scikm-i 

From  Siaiii  is.-t  II. .use  u'e  went  o\er  lllackiri  ii'>  liriii.'c 
into  >i)ntli\vark.  I.i  -ee  the  celehi  aled  I  .aiirastei  ian  Sch.ioj. 
It  deri\"e>  its  name  Irom  il^  l.nm.ierand  [indent  <'ondiieior. 
a  .Mi.  Lane.istei,  u  ho~e  liijhU  lieies  oli.iit,  i;i.  ritorioas^ 
and  >ncce^>lal  (XmIiohs.  ha\e  pioeined  to|-  him  fiie  ap- 
|il.Mivi  an.i  p:.i  1  KiiML'e  (i|  some  o|  tlie  lii^i  imai  in  liie  kiirj- 

d'>m.  lie  i>  ,1  .jil.iker.  \\\\n,  takill'/  \i\\\  on  the  deplorah!"' 
roiidili.  .11  ol  a  111  .'e  class  o|  childi.  n  in  l.oiid'Mi.  ,i:,d  is. 
peeidls  in  liie  h.a.ncjh  ol'  S  .'jlhw.uk.  No'mi'aidx  imdi  r- 
t'lo'x  (lii-ii  in~hu<ih.n  aad  k  lorm  tli  n.  as  i  ir  as  ii  i^  jmss;- 
hj.'  I.jr  .Mil  man  I.i  d.i  it.  The  e!  i-s  ,>|  .  hildieii  ;.a  w  hose 
1)111'  ill  the  1  .aipMslci  i.iu  Si  lion!  was  iiisiniii,  >!.  aii'  those, 
wilo,  li.iii!  .  \treaie  im  iiL:''aee,  aie  i_'i\eii  up  to  i.ljeiiess,  |._- 
noraiic.-.  and  \i.'e,  can.h.l.itis  |or  e\ei\  eiinie  .ind  e\irs 
pmrisiiiiieiit.  I'lie  tiiiMt  e.vcell.ni'e  ol'  .Mr.  I  .aiicasd  i"s 
plau  foi'.sisis  in  its  rAtlordiiiL'  iiisiructliin  at  .-o  cin  i;i  .i  ;'  i''  • 


224  A   JOURNAL   OF    TRAVELS    IN 

that  about  one  thousand  chikh-en  can  receive  it  for  a  sum 
not  exceeding  one  thousand  four  hundred  dollars  per  an- 
num, including,  as  I  understand,  all  their  stationary, 
books,  rewards,  Sec.  I  saw  assembled,  in  one  great  room, 
nearly  seven  hundred  children,  of  which  number  tlic 
school  now  consists,  and  it  iias  contained  one  thousand. — 
All  these  Mr.  Lancaster  superintends  and  instructs  in 
person,  without  any  otlier  aid  than  that  which  he  derives 
from  placing  the  elder  boys  over  the  yomiger.  For  this 
purpose  his  s'-hool  is  divided  into  companies,  like  a  little 
army,  so  that  there  is  a  regular  grathttion  of  instruction 
and  command  iVoni  himself,  as  commander  in  chief,  down 
to  his  little  licuteiiants  and  sergeants,  llie  minute  par- 
ticulars of  his  novel  and  curious  establishment,  will  be 
best  learned  from  a  book  which  he  v\ill  soon  pubhsh  on 
the  subj(^ct.  I  will  mention  a  few  circumstances  wliich 
struck  me  durini^  our  visit. 

The  school  is  held  in  a  very  plain  l)ut  extensive  buil- 
dino,  t!ie  ch'^a^est  that  would  possibly  answer;  even  the 
beams  and  raf!ei>  are  naki'd  below,  and  upon  them  are  sus- 
pended a  variety  of  toys  iwnl  other  thinirs,  which  are  occa- 
sionally (nstril)ut<.'d  as  rewards,  and,  being  constantly  in 
view,  have  a  tcndt'iicy  to  promote  emnlation.  As  cheap- 
ness of  education  is  t'le  great  object,  economy  is  studied  in 
rvery  thing.  The  younij  ()oys  are  n(»t  suffered  to  waste 
p»'ns,  ink.  and  paper,  in  their  first  attempts  to  learn  to 
write.  Kvery  table  is  provided  v.ith  a  narrow  bed  of 
sand  exteiidinir  ihrongh  its  whole  leniith  ;  this  is  smoothed 
i)y  tlie  liand  or  otherwise,  and  in  this  the  bo\s  make  their 
first  rudf  attempts  ;;t  writin<r  and  ciphering,  usin<:tlie  end 
of  t'ic  fmrrer,  or  ofson'.e  blunt  instrument,  instead  olpetis 
and  pencils. 


CNoi.AM),  uoi.i.  \Ni)    ^^■^   sfnri  wr*.  '■^.' 

'I'lu'ii'  is  u  cm  ii'iis  police  in  tins  liti!f  n  juiblif.  1  in>- 
!ii'\f  wliiii[iiii?  i^  nut  |)r;irti-(ii  at  :il!,  Inif  llw  (li^(i|ilinr  nl 
ilf  institnlioii  c()^si^t^  |iriiii'ip:il!y  in  iiioiiv<>>  lifM  .mt  to 
til'  i  ,inibiti(Jti.  :iiid  scii^c  lu  Nli.uiir.  Oi'  tlie  (ir^l,  tli'-  rr- 
w  I  ■  N  wliicli  I  h.ivt'  aliTadv  lui'iilioiK'il  ai  <■  an  rxampli-, 
an  I  I  ^isv  .1  svlii'U^ic  il.  an  I  1  sliouM  think  umI  pnifclly 
|uii'i.vi|N.  in-t  ini-i'  ol  ti\>'  la;i''r.  Tlii'  Uu\<  r;\  ii<'  np  in 
iiir!''  -  j  iaiir.«;i-.  In'.iiir  1  by  tli''ir  rospcctivi'  I'-a^l-Tv,  to 
I'irir  ui  L-i'-i-.  t')  r\hitiil  til.'  ^^>ult^  nl  tli<'ir  in.ln-trs .  *  >iK' 
nl  tl|  \..in.'"-t  1.1  i-^c- rain''  np  w  hi!'' v.  .•  vvM' coin  iT^iiiL' 
u  iiii  '■  li .  I ,  in<-  ;-!'-r.  aa  I  when  am  \t'>\  ii  id  no'  acq  lillfii 
liiin-'ll  \V'-;|.  Iii^  i!.\i  n'-iL'li!)"M! ,  np'<n  a  '«i_Mi.iI  li'oin  tlio 
111  !-(•!.  pull.- !  Ih  11  ^111. i;ll\'  l)V  till-  <ar.  TlTKuas  parti- 
■  ■'ili-I.   Ill' M  tii\  in.'    in    t!i'    pi''-'fiic.'    Ill'   .siiaii'_'i'rs.    ami     I 

(I  i;i'Mii    t  'i.  1  r   litll.'   l\'-i       \>  ■■i.-  i-.il'Mi!    ".  I    .  juil.'   ;i  >  iniu'li    \\\[\l 

!  ii  '1!  III. ..I    i'"!  I  ■■-I'Mt'iii-ni  ;i<,  v.itii  111'^'   nil')!!--  -haiiii-. 

^I:\  I  ,  111'    :~''-v  i^   I  ii:  in  ui  niil'l  inaimii-  ami  '>!  an  inii  !- 

Mi'i.iiijh    li.-    iicl.Mijs    t"    til''    --'"i.i','    "1 

i  ii'V!-..  ii'  'i'^'s  ii''l  aitiiiuil  I- 1  iiii!iui-  till'  inni'i-M|  In^  pn- 

iiil>  w  ifii  1:  >  .  1  A   I  pi  iii.'ip!''-.  'ii  !"  \"i':\\  I  111  II    III  iini'  I'N  np- 

,    till'  <.^ii  i'-,''-  plan  :    in-l^in;'    iii>-ril  \-  np' ni   the    c-^iiitutl 

:  '1  ;  Mcr  ''    -  i  '•   i  '!i'.:i.-ci  aii.l  ni  'ImU. 

I;  i>  ~  i''l  !'i  il  til'-  Ii  ■■•  -  in  !ii-  vciKM'l  I.  ;in  la^fi  r  ill  in  in 
■'!'■  cniniii.iii  \\.\v.  Ill  I  ilii'  pi  in  !■>  I  ap  ililc  >>[  In  iii'/  '■\- 
!  "I'll  (I    I'l  .'till  |-  C'i';ii;rii'>.   iii'i  m|  I/i'IH'    i'\i-(  iiti  il  liv   dllici 


I!'  In  mill/  i  Ml"  I'M-  cit\  .  ill.'  kill  in.  .s  mI  in\  ■■•'■<\  li  icinN 
•  "'i-M  iiiii-l  111  ■  1.1  ,'i:,.' ,111.1  III,.'  I, -I  \\i;li  tin  111.  aihl  I  iia.! 
i'|ia!\  '.I  I' ikri^-i'.j  tipic  tiiat  moi  ii'ii".  S.I  that  I  iiiailo 
It  ih'-  .!a\  m  tin  n  -m  nlv.  '\'\i<-\  :[\,-  ,,\  ih.il  <  ia>v  ot'p.  .i- 
,.!'  wli'i  --iriii  I.'  ii'i-i  i\i'  ;in  ii'iji  '.iii'ii  l)\  rnnriiiaiiL'  it, 
sJiii  tu    '^iM'nii.'  ,i  nivv  cliini   t'l    th' ir    kui'lii'-s*     hv    ln^  - 


226  A   JOURNAL    OP    TRAVELS    IN 

jng  already  bestowed  it  in  the  the  most  generous  i-naK- 
ner. 

In  the  evening  I  went  with  Mr.  G to  theCovent-Gar- 

den  Theatre,  and  witnessed  the  uiast<^rly  powers  of  Cooke 
in  Richard  III.  This  play  is  too  well  known  to  need  a 
recital,  and  the  talents  of  Cooke  in  duing  justice  to  its  prin- 
cipal character  are  scarcely  less  known  in  England  than 
the  play  itself.  In  this  instance,  the  n'vj^hx  scene,  in  which 
the  shnnbers  of  Richard  are  dismrbed  by  deatli  gmans, 
was  admirably  performed,  and  even  the  trite  t^xclamation  : 
'•  my  kingdom  for  a  horse,"  produced  its  full  effect  on  the 
audience. 

Between  the  play  and  afterpiece,  I  wandered  through 
the  lionse,  and  was  cori\inced  that  Kuro])ean  tltcatres 
have  not  been  dcfHiiici,l  on  tijc  oiiior  siiio  of  the  .Vt- 
laniic. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  they  are  frequented  by  mul- 
titP.des,  not  so  niu'di  tor  t'lc  |)leasin'e  of  b"ini:  present  at 
the  j^ierfonnances,  ;is  because  they  afford  the  most  conven- 
iciU  of  all  possible  rendezvous,  for  engagements  whicli  it 
is  unnecessary  to  name. 

rorNi)Li>c;  iiosimtai,. 

Sahbatli.  J i' :);■(),  1803. — Amoiur  the  many  charital)le 
institutions  of  London,  there  is  a  iine  liosj)i(;il  Ibi  ihe  edu- 
cation and  siipjjori  of  foundlinirs.  !  attnided  divine  ser- 
vice tu-day  at  the  church  of  this  institiition,  and.  had  a  good 
view  of  the  children  reared  by  the  charity.  Idiere  were 
about  five  hundred  of  botli  sexes,  ueady  dressed  in  a  de- 
cent unil'iHin.  and  apparentiv  very  heallhy  andi  cheerful. 
They  v»ere  stated  in  a  gallerv.  where  th(>  rising  of  the 
seats  exhibited  them  to  '.;r*  at  advmitaoe.      The    preacher 


f>'.l.AN!),    H.iLLA.Nfi     AMI    -<Mri.  VM). 


y,.tvr  ;t  suptMinr  (iixoiirsc,  m  wlmii  me  < miiIi  nrv  o\  ilie 
( 'liri~!  i.i!i  H  l;_:i>i;i  wii^  iiiiri  icil  lidm  liic  cm^imkc  dt' 
(li.ui;viM>'    iii^titiiti('ii->   ill   ('!ui>ii;iii    couniiiis   ami    in   no 

«'lii' r. 

I  !'■  ,ill;i'if(i  111  a  \iis    |t.i!ii('iir  .iiiil  iiUrnvtliiij  iii,ii;:iiT   to 
II' rliililrcii  lnHiif  11^.  ami  ilicv ,  w  iili  niir  accnril  1 1.,,,  as 

111'  ii'tliiiL'K  a->k''il.  what    \M>iil(i  Iia\i'    Itnii  iln  ir  sii'.atimi. 

Itiit  I'M-   tli'N    iii^iiiiilinii.  vine, ■  III,  ^   wni'   lifNi  iii-.i  li\   ilii  ir 

[tail  ln^  —  wiiliiiiii  a  n.iair— w  ailiiMii    a  iia'):lalii  mi.  a'lil  \i  j!i 

i!M  livaaiiiit  1'  I  ciiiiiii'i  I  1 1  in  1 1  \v  itli  ^ori'tv  . 

I  la  !<'    v\a^  11"    ilhliri  ,i|i' \    ill   lias  ■  i  ml,  man's    disi  i  ai:  n(; 

lM\\;'i,is  n;!ii  1'  li.ii.imiiialhais  :  ma  |.mi'j;ju.  I  luaiil  all 
■1  ilih  ma  I'lMiil  ill''  -aaa'  i!r-k.  a'  ain-l  I'l  I  in  .-.•  vs  In  i  i  lis- 
•  al   hM  11  III'-  1  -laMi-ai'.i  rlmnli  ol'  1  aiji  nal  :    iIm-  |afa(li- 

'   i      W    i  -    1 1  i  't  .    I  H  I U  I  ■  \  I  r .      ^  I  I  .     '<  I  ■  i  1  >  .   I  1 1 1  •   1  Ml .  ■  I  ,  I    \v  i ;  I  1 1 1 1    I    I  la  \  1  • 

M^  a\     -  I  1'  'Iv'    •!   s.  I   ;;,  1\  .1  ||!:|    'ri  iMsl  •>  . 

i  m-  •  ii  I  re  a  ni    iln'  I  Mimdim  '    I  |..-|iii  il  i-  i  Imj  mt  —  liic 

'■  . :'  |ii' 1  I-  is  niaa.iii  iipii  w  ii!i  an  a  j  i|  n  i  ■)  i.  i  il'-  |.  aiiiMm/  I'V 

\! ; .  \\  •  -' .  \'.  In  I'll  111'  ja\ .  iiM  111'  1  II  iiai  \  :    nn  -nli|i'rt  r.  inM 

1)1    II'  ill  a    ij  ijili'.j  I  1  iiii'  |.ia<a-  :    II   I-  M  'I    >  i\  iniii'  jiT.  i\  MIL' 

im    I'l!!;    rii;      1  a   ;ii  :i  a!<   pi  i-i  ii'.iH  l.i  Inai. 

'I  i:,-  iha;'  ';  i-  inm-ii  Ii  n  pn  nli' i  \<\   l!ir  iai!iilil\  ami  jmo- 

!■'•■   1  I    !a-:i;  ,a  :    i\'i'".   lair    i  M'iU a ! h i|i  >    sMtnii'iiim    al    liii' 

■.,,■.  -a;.'  till  il  u  ill   111'  aa;,iii-.|   t.i  llii'   !i,>st    piir- 

ji  '-'       I'l,!'..     'Amli'    ills    I'lalnilN    |niH'inf-.    in  n    a     viat,    to 

vviihii  ill-;-  Mi\   ri\ili\   1  iimimli-l  li\  an  ailiiiaial. 


iM  ini,\  I 


./..'//'     IiK— I    i;i\i-    111     n    ta\iiii  a    lM-iia\    \siiii    aiiiiilra- 

:■  ii.ai  lo  I ):  .    I  1 1.  a:  a  ^a .  'Af  11   inn  'W  n  \>\  li:-  w  i  n  k  <'ilil  li  il 

■  il.'  .1    li'^'iMia-.  aiai   ill  III  !■  -lill   a.    ins  c  .-.  ni   pim  in-  1 1- ai 

','    1  •  aipl'    I'l   i   I'M   1.       I    \i  a:   at    ais  a  I  'V.-.  ..,.,!   ij.     \v  1-,    -,i 


228  A  JOURNAL    OF   TRAVELS   IN" 

obliging  as  to  shov.  me  tiie  superb  picturesque  coloured 
engriiviiigs,  wliicli  have  been  executed  for  this  work.  It 
is  a  l>otaiiical  producti'ii,  intended  to  illustrate  the  princi- 
pal classes  of  Linnaeus,  but  more  perhaps,  to  exhibit  a 
splendid  proof  of  the  state  of  the  arts  in  England.  In  the 
latter  }>';>int  of  view  the  work  is  admirable,  as  it  is  undoubt- 
edly unri\alled  in  the  beauty  of  its  engravings  and  the 
richness  of  its  colours,  but  it  has  probably  contributed  ve- 
ry little  to  the  advancement  of  science,  and  stiil  less  to  the 
fortun(>  of  its  author,  for  it  costs,  I  bellevf,  about  fifly  guin- 
eas, and  there  is  not  as  much  reading  as  in  a  common  half 
guinea  book.  The  work  is  accompanied  by  enjr'aved 
heads  of  the  principal  naturalists,  and  by  poetical  quota- 
tions adapted  to  the  tliffcient  botanical  subjects.  It  is  in 
a  very  large  folio,  and  tlie  printing  is  dlflusi  d  over  a  vast 
extent  of  hot-pressed  and  wire-ioore  pap<'r  ;  I  need  not 
therefore  inform  you  tliat  it  meets  with  only  a  very  heavy 
sale.  Posterity  will  probably  wontler  that  a  wt)rk  so 
sj)lendid  and  l)eautiful  could  ever  have  been  executed,  and 
still  more  perliapsthat  one  so  unprofitable  should  ever  have 
been  undertaken.  The  author  is  a  man  of  tVank  and 
pleasing  manners,  and  hardly  arrived  at  middle  life. 

An  introductory  note  gained  me  access  also  to  Dr. 
Shaw,  of  the  British  Museum.  As  my  object  was  merely 
to  make  a  few  entjuiries  of  him  as  a  jirofessional  juan,  I 
ran  say  little  more  of  him,  than  that  his  manners,  like 
those  of  most  of  the  men  of  literature^  and  science,  whom  I 
liave  seen  in  this  country,  are  affabh^  and  polite.  He  is 
distinguished  for  an  extensive  and  accurate  knowledge  of 
'/.oology,  on  which  branch  he  is  now  j)ul)lishin<;-  a  great 
worl, ,  illustrated  by  very  line  engravings,  taken  priucijjul- 


IN'  .1    \  M).     f!'''I   1    \  Ml     \  M>     -''11    \  \1'. 


,\  [r.iiii  (.iTji-.;  il  -'i!.  ,■.'-  [,v  ■-iT\' .'.  Ill  I'l'  r-'.il  M'lM-iini- 
oi'  l..i:iii.Mi. 

'I'll.'  !sin  ii.r--.  iij' in  \'  iVi'ti!^  ,"'■1'.  •!;;  !  '-ii  .<.■-:.  l;;i«- 
iiiM -'ir,  .1  l.u-  i!if  i.i-.l,i\  ,i;i  iiui .'  !u. ■•;■'. i  ii  .;  r.  Ii  !.rit.'l 
'ii<'i'.ir\  l,il\.  \\\-.  l\!Ma  !.•-.  'r!i''\  ar«' oil  :  ;iii>  I'TriLiil- 
iiiiis  .11  lirr  1m:;-.,  .nil  [•'.-.  ill"  i!iir-'  I'l  dim'.  Mi-. 
KiM'.\  li  --  I-  :i  \  •  .1'  :  .il>'i  I  li  l;iii\  '  'I  ~  '.  1  i:'\  .  \v  liu  li:i-  ,i!i 
;!:i  -i!ll|irn'il\  el'  liliil'l.'i  >  '■'  i  .'ii--  \\Mrii  r|i:MMi  111  i/i 
:!ii'  -ill  II  t  \  .  .|  I  ri<!i(i-.  1 '!  w  .rrii  -iii  i-  a  i;:'  lul"  r.  \'.  :;liciit 
ii;\    llii)!  J  I  I  lii'ir  p'Tuli:!'  ;,'•    . 

■^'!"   II.!-   !ii  r:i  |i  .aj-  ri-|rli:    i;.  ,|  j:;    !    ;      ;  ;    ;,;   ;,.r  1..  |-    iilr;  a:  \ 

i''<Miiiji'ii-lini.'M'>  :iiiii  \\'i  :;n  ;;i:!iiii,i>  ii;  I'l'  !iii''  a.it-.  im' 
''--  ill  la  li|-  ill.'  Ill  i-ruliii''  \i:".r  ni'  liM'  aiali'i -i.iiKiiiiv. 
t  »r  lia'  l.ith  I-.  !>,.  .iMliii-ua  i>  viM  In  has.'  haii  .i  ja-.u,(. 
■.\  '  1  a  ■  1 1  111  i  i  - 1   1 1  !  \  I  ■  '  I  ■  ■  1 !  - .  •  a .  v.  '  1 , 1 1   I J :  ■  ,  : !  i  ,  1 1 :  ■ .  t . ;  1 1 1 1  ( ■  ;  a  ■  ■  a ;  -  - 


a'''  1  t')  . .  .-'a'i    V.  il  'i  li  i_  ai.i  ;■■  il 


I  M  »i  naaiili 


.'I,,  1, 


a  I  \i  !  \  1  aa-  -I.  I  a!!  a.',  t.i  a  .ii-;.  a;.'  \  Irrli  lia-  Di. 
■\<]'\  v.'f'n  ;ii'-  I  I  l\.  up'  II  t  i-i-  |i::ia'i.!(  -  .:,  .'  i,  ''  ;!-  i.|  ilic 
*  l'  I'x'a  -.  ia   w  ii;r!i    ia'  i-  -aM    in  i        .  ,  >,    \.,  ,.i^\.  ;i 

i\   !i  aa  .111' !  ' !,  I'.  I  ■!  I  r'  iiii  j !■.■   ;'..  '.i. 

^\i-.  l\n..v.i.'N  .r.iiiia'.;  .|,  w'r'.i  .i  -i'la  ,  i  li  a;  la'a'iii  - 
iii-M  ill!  il....  -  u.'  li.  I-  iifii.-i!  aaii  la  r  i;.  ..il'  .  w  iiii  \>  lii,  ii  ||,  i 
-I  p.ir'ai.  at-  ar.-  .-l.ain  a.  W  la'.  nl'  ih,  ai  ai.'  i  ^l|  '-iti'  la 
;  la  ir  kia  I.  .laa  ' !  1  .  aa  'I  iau!.  a  ;■'  !i.i  a.i'iai'  ■  aiil  i:  •  - 
a  iii\.  'I'a--  |i:-..  '  ..aaai-  .a  i:  .  :.•  .  '  s-  ^  :'  ,,  T  .  .a 
■  '   •    ■■         I  '  v.  i,'-  i.   I    -  1'.^  .     (  .':;-iM    .1     ja    .:■  ij.  M\     i.' 

'■it-  I.;  II. ai;:  .!   ia-  If '  .  .  -      a   ,  -  \ari- 
.  li  a;  ■.  A  'a       la  llii-  la  ii.i  !i   i .;  lar  iia,  - 


111  aa- 


.1  I  \rrlli  la  .■  ,1-    .a!nic-l  i 


:\  i!  ;!"■  I"  :■     I   .■-•  I'.  I'ii-  -.aiir  ..!  ta-'    ..am.;.:-  m  |a(  -i  i  !• 
•  ..a'li  a!i-..|«a'  '\    aii\  ».  ;  -  il  r'\,'h  lo  -taiii':  Iia  v\  an'. 


230  A    JOf  RNAL     OK    TRAVKLS    IX 

In  the  same  style,  ]\Irs.  Knowles  has  exeoiitecl  ihe  bc:,i 
likeness  of  the  King  tli;it  has  ever  been  taken,  and  !iis  Ma- 
jesty has  paid  her  very  paiticular  marks  of  respect. 


No.  XYIII.— LONDON. 

H;'i'i>h  Miiicnin — Ejjyptian  and  other  aiil!([iie.i — Snrcopliagu.s  oi' 
Alexander  tlic  Great — Roman  arms  and  rcJics — Likeness  ot 
(.'hancer— Magna  Charta — Pope's  Homer— Drury  Lane — Strong 
furiosity  to  see  the  Royal  Family — Their  reception  attliothea- 
'rc — Appearance  of"  the  King  and  of  the  Family — The  play  and 
entei'tainmcnt — Opinions  coiicerniiig  the  Kiiig — Anecdotes  of 
liiin —  An  ineiderit. 

nRITlSII  MLSFUM. 

.iiiae  12. — Til  order  to  sec  the  Biilisli  ^hiseuni  it  is  iiC'- 
tcssary  to  make  a[)i)licati()n  on  a  previous  ^.h^\.  1  made 
the  necessary  arrangcmei'.t.-  yesterday,  and  was  tliis  inorn- 
in<;  admitted   to  see  this  celebratcil   repositoiy  (,f  cm-ii)S- 

\\.\V:i. 

In  tills  instance,  as  in  most  former  ones,  it  will  be  m\ 
object,  my  dear  brother,  {o  notire  c>ii!y  a  few  of  those 
thiui^s  which  iincre>I'.'d  me  most.  !n(lee<i,  ifthe  priuci|):d 
purj)ose  of  this  Journal  were  dt'scriotion,  I  niiLdil  as  well 
spare  mvseli'  the  trouble  of  doin'i  that  which  will  hv  found 
in  many  instaiic(\s,  to  have  beni  f<eiter  executed  In'otluM's. 
Jhit,  ]  write  chielly  because  it  is  myself  that  have  seen, 
anil  you  and  a  \'r\\'  othc-r  of  my  most  jiarticular  friends 
that  will  read.  1  c;mnot  doubt  that  you  will  be  warndy 
interested  in  every  occunc  nee  of  mv  travels  and  r«  sidfu- 
"Vs  abroudj  and  theref)re  wlrit  I.  have  seen,  tliou-.dd,  and 


■   N     1    \  Ml.    I.>>I.I,  \  M)     '.  M)     ■         r.w.i 
!■':  in    Id  \  iKl   iMiil    l:i'/  i.ill'  l      .  .•  ..  >    : 


'Hi 


'VII''.  ii"t  I'm   Nm-1  i,ii''i .  >!,,/  '-ii  ••.!  1.-;  ■!.•  •   i.l'iiji-  -■,  M  ■> . 

Ill  lii''  \,ii.l  lit'I.ii,-  ti;  '■!  '-•  .  r.  li>-,/  .:;;i  !■  'r;.M:,,:\ 
-II'  i  >  (  1 1 11  - 1 1"  H  ■ ! '  •  1 1  f '  1  I !  •  1 1  , ,  i  1 ! ; .  1 1 1  : 1  .  1 1 1  1  ; .  ■  ■ .  '  : '  ■  '  .  '  • ' ; 
'ill  V     iMIl     i)i-      I  I  ill'  ■■>  I    I     :;     -  '   a     !iU;i   iil!  _'      J,"    . 

i!i'.!'    ii  .■'■jiiiiiii.  ..: '     '!i'    <  .  '.  !ir  It' 'I    r;i/'/'/.'.    '■.  I  i!,.  .1    ii-. 
'  "  1.1  i.il    ^-I'  M.'ii  ;il    \  !•  \  i;i,;;  ii.       '\"u<    1  r.  iii-|i  i;     ;  iu.  ■:.,  !i'. 

I  r  :ii    Ii .  'Ill  (  ,111  ii    a'l'l  11;  iv  I  ])!.ii'  >.  \\  nil    tin-  i  i;;i  i/i.  ,!i    ..' 

II  .ia-|n!  liiij    Ir.rai  til    I  r  i  :iri  .  Imi     lin  ■  '-.iLi-a  i  ■;•!!.■•  a     li.. 

!  ,'<■  \'.  ,ir  in  I  \  ['t  I'i.  II  '!  I  ::■  .11  i;:  I  ill'  ji.  i\\  'i'  nj  iIm'  I  .!■  - 
!i-ii.  \.,:ii:,j  lliriil  :i!i'  -■  \'  I  il  IJhIiliii  ■-'  i!'>  .  a  ]i.liii  >  : 
|iiii  ji':\  !_■.  1'!  '  MiiMi'  t.  ;i .!,.:  --.  a;,  .t:iri(  ui  i- a-  ii-!.  aa'i  -■•  \  - 
I  111  lai  r.i  -,  -aji;i'i-'  J  i.i  ha\  i'  ii-  •  ii  iiiii  .nI'  a  In  r<  ]  I'l  •■  n' 
til'-  i  •■\jii.aii  '..iii.a  --  l\  :  !i  il  a  laiaiinr  <  ■!  ^  i  .ijaia.; 
an-  ai-'iv  I  .■ri-.iiii.  ,i  .i.a.nrj  !'.;•■  ';.'  a'a  >!  riit  ii'-i;  i"-. 

I  1 1 '  \  a  rr  1 1 1  I  ■  i  •  ■  1 . 1  - ; .  i  a  •  ■ .  . !  a  I  i  \\  <  :  c  ii  m  1 1  a  -  ii ;  i  i  ■  \  i  i  i  .  ■ ' : 
i"!li!i- 111  till    I.'  \]a..ai-.        I'ii''  iuaiinn\   w  a     laM  w  i    i'j"- 

III  I  Kail  :  il  v\  ,1-  till  11  I  .1  I'.-i  li  111  a  \\ "  i:l' II  11  ai  .,  ,j  II 'il- 
ia _'  Willi  !aa  .. '  -.  li.v'  i  I  ,.  •  !  ■  -  .  .a  h  ■  -.  aiai  ;ia'-i  Iiiaiil- 
lnl'  -  \.  a  ■  li   I   -iw    la  I  la     M     ■  u  t  Ii    ,,v  lii.ii cai'i,!,. 

\M   ;  I     I  1'  ills    ":  ;!■ i  '•     1   .     !  i  a    i.l     ,i  a  .    I  iir    W  ."     '     rnlilU    \k      - 

liri'i'-;!'    1    ii.    ; 'i'       la    i[i:,,r  a-.      'I  i,.     1  at'  i     ai '    i  i.\  i  h  . 
\|.  ii  ■!  .  nl     \  ,i;  imi-     laaij-  .     w  iii.  I!     I 


a. 


■|'i,' 


■    ■'    .la    .    ,1!.    -;    1  •!  a.;'llia|li'.'   n!    tin   -■     ■         1      ^ 

.   '  /l' a  a  'T  'aaii  I   iii  \'  iia  ii  t  ai    !"  ■ 

■'I  \  .■  N  M.a  i  ,,.  ■  I  n  a  ...  a-  ij.'jM,-  a-  a"  (  ,  \  >•■  \v  ,i\ 
1 1.'  an  il .  -i  "I  \'.  li'.  !i  I  -Il .  a.  I  \  a  'i  t"  !  >  '-i  \  •  '  a''  '  ■■  ', 
■•■     -   l"i'      ■  ■..    'a  tia      iia  a         ;  '  , 


...'32  A    JOIRNAL    OF    TRAVELS    IX 

reads  to  human  ambition,  and  especially  to  the  thirst  for 
Riai'tlal  glory. 

SaV;  mic'bty  cliipf,  \<-ns(his  the  hoaslod  end 
O!  triumphs  and  of  loll-,  like  tliine  renowii'd  ! 
Did  lie,  who  s\vay"d  from  Indus  to  the  >.ile; 
And  clairn'd,  presunijitnous,  to  be  call  d  a  god- 
Did  this  di'cad  iiero  (uid  his  hvsl  abode 
Within  this  narrow  i;ouse  !  Thy  very  toiiib, 
(.Ireat  conq'ror  of  llie  worhl.  derides  tliy  claims,. 
And  -hews  its  marble  sides  by  time  uidinrt, 
A\  hile  winds  have  blown  thy  a>hes  o'er  the  world  ! 

With  similar  emotions  I  beheld  a  collection  of  arms 
found  on  the  place  where  the  great  battle  of  (.'ami-'e  was 
fouffht,  and  supi)osed  to  havo  belonged  to  the  parties  who 
contended  on  that  memorable  spot.  Th.cre  is  also  a  col- 
lection of  rings  and  of  oth'-r  ornaments  for  the  fingers  and 
ears,  which  are  believed  to  have  been  worn  by  the  com- 
batants at  Caniut;.  In  spite  of  tlte  disposition  which  is 
so  naturally  felt  to  ridicule  an  er.thusiastic  and  cxtrava- 
oanl  admiration  of  anticjuity,  one  casmot  remain  miaflect- 
ed  when  he  realizr  s  that  thcs'C  \\v.^>  \iii\e  been  worn  on 
Roman  fniaers  : — flu's  lielni(,'t  ci)vered  a  Carthaginian 
head,  and  t/iu!  spear  was  thrt)\\ii  by  a  Roman  liand  in  the 
pre^en(■e  of  the  victotious  ilannibal.  Similar  emotions 
were  ex*  iled  by  the  numerous  Itoman  va<es  : — the  am- 
p]ior;e  in  which  iheir  wines  were  kept,  and  especially  by 
the  relics  of  the  unfortunate  I  Irrciiianeum.  These  con- 
sist of  utensils,  vases.  L^ods.  A'c  r.iid  amoe.'j  otlu'r  tliing.s 
are  the  vrry  hinges  oi'  their  dooi's.  i5y  the  sii>ht  of  fliese 
nutlieiitic  rciii/iants  oi'  iliis  illustrious  nation,  a  powerful 
.imj)iii-.*'  i'-  <\'!tcf|  towar.'U  the  stiidv  ol'tlieir  ar.ti'iiiitii''^. 


^iii-ii,'  till'  iimm-i  I'lis  ;iiui  lii'jiiK  inn  i  rvH;.  •  niiiii  i  il  ^]m  - 
>ii;iM!-.  linn  i-  ;m  I '.-.'v  ]i!i;ni  ))rli!)l'-.  \s  i.i  li.  Iirin,  ;,.■(  j- 
'1'  I ;  tills    !iriik<  ii.   I  live,  ivn.  .1.  nil  Imili   '.i.-i  '.  .  .t'  tlu'  li  .ni  mc, 

.1     ^I|   ii/lll'J    iikl■|ll•^>    Ml'    lIlC     |l.  M    !     (     1i,M;.'I    I  .  Il     i-    ,1     lli'ivt     -■'.l- 

.11:. II  lii>  ;■>  ii,ili;i  .1  . 

riii'\  Niirwcii  111.  (  )ri\  cr  ( 'ri'iiiw  I  IP-  \\  .ihli.  .iiiii  .1  Jill. 
wliK'li  'jnu    Mil    ;i  \\Miii:iir>    luM.i  :   Ir  i    pi<itr:iit  witli    liii- 

-lll_ill,ir   ;i  j'pii.i   i  l^r  A    1^   ,l!»ii  |iri-^ri\  r.i    ;  111  1  r. 

'111.-  /.ii.ii,  ^'-.l  i!'  p.u  llnilll  U  r-  IMl  v.>  I  \|.|l»ivr  .1^  I 
,||w!i!.!  ii:i\c  I  \;irctiMl.  'I'll.'  pliiirii  ,ii  •:liM\  i  .l' I  in  •  iiiiIm- 
iiiM  i«.  ill.'  \  ,isi  .■>.'!.  ti^'ii  11!  ni.iuiiM-,  :i.:-.  ;i;i.-i  m  ,i.,  i  iinni- 
I'l'ii  :    ii;;t    lln-    lai.iil    niaiuitr    in     wlTuli     tins     liiinii-'i    n^ 

t!ii,.ii-li  the  (iili'i  VrW.  lijiilllinrill-  ni'l  llol  ;i1!m\\  li;r  liiiic  Id 
,  \,liliill>'  ln:in\  n!  |i|r~!'.  I  I  i;i  1  i  ImWi 'X  tT  1 1:.-  s  1 1  i  ^  I  !i  I  ;,  .|1 
.r -(  (  liij  ihr  ii-:iM\\  in  i!  i>!  ijiinl  \I.r_'ii;i  ( 'iiiii  I.I.  tin'  \i'!\ 
iii^ti  mil'  111   '.\!i!i-ii  til.'  iiulixiliii-  li;nnii>  I'Morli.i  !i"iii  Imhj 

.l..!lll.  Il  i~  I  Mli-I'ii'!  I'i'ls  iillllil  il>'.i  .lll'l  'il'!  II  I  l.iiUl-ii!l. 
•'I    till'    IP. .ill.    Ir  .  ilili  . 

I  \'.  I-.  i!.-liL'i:ii 'i  '>.  ii'ii  'I  ^i'.'ii!  Ml'  iii>  M  i.iir.l  <'i'|'\  Ml 
|'iij)c\  1 1  Ml  II.  T.  in  lii^  M\sii  I  I.I  I  111  \i|ili:ij.  \'iii.>'  Ml  I'll" 
-li;  .  I^  ;ii'i-  iiMU  ii.iiii.j  !..■  <  ilni  ill  inc-  ;..|iii  .ii  ,i  h  ...L.  tiir 
•,v  Ml  k    II I  .|  ..-iil-   iM  ;',  i\  .■    !  ,.■.  II    \\  III! .  "I    ' .;  >    i. ..  .V,.    In;  -    I  .1    j  ;  '  ■   .  I  . 


Irn;      |,.,M  Wl,,. 


-I     .1    'I.. 


'...Ml,  il  ;.|.-.  11  .  .'  1  •  .  •;.;  '.  '.'  i.  .  ' 
111!'  .  ■  1. 1  •  |.'  !•  .Ml!',  .  .<:  .1.  I..-.  ■.',  .  I( 
II.  ..  i  •  \'.  .  ,'.■  (I  ;  ■:  r  \i  f  •  ,  .'..iir  i::  ,ii  : '  • 
■    1.1. .M    ■  .111   r,      ;;   ■    ;-,   M;  ,,     ,    .   ,.     I  ,,  ,.     ..      , 

.■  ,    ..I    :  cN  .-11  M  .^.  ;••,,;_.  n:    ,,[    II,,-    1,1  I- 
,    li:i  \     \\  •    I      -.    1    •    .;  ill    1 1,1   ••',■•■ 


23'L-  A    JOURNAL    OF    TRAVELS    IN 

irionds  ;  not  unrrpqueiitly  the  lines  run  across  the  super' 
scriptioHy  and  Alexander  Pope,  Esq.  TuricketiJtam,  is 
scon  glimmering  throujili  some  of  Humor's  linest  strains. 
There  are  those  who  impute  this  to  ihc  poet's  parsimony, 
while  others  consider  it  as  a  proof  that  he  made  the  best 
use  of  his  time,  by  writing  down  his  thoughts  at  the  mo- 
ment when  tliey  occurred,  on  whatever  scrap  of  papfi 
happened  to  come  hrst. 

Pope's  hand-writing  was  stiff  but  legible,  and  the  nnmo- 
lous  erasures  evince  thnt  his  first  thoughts  were  not  al- 
ways in  his  own  view,  the  best.  I  read  as  much  of  llie 
l)ook  as  possible  in  the  s'lnrt  space  allowed  me,  and  left  il 
"i\!t]i  regret.     I  hope  to  visit  this  museum  again. 

DRIi.V-LANK   AND  THJ:  ItOVAL   ."A.MILY. 

At  live  o'clock  this  evening,  1  went  to  the  Drury-Lane 
fiioalre,  with  the  double  view  of  seeing  tliis  celebrated 
iiouse,  and  their  majesiics,  who  were  expected  to  attend 
that  evening,  it  is  known  when  the  king  and  queen  are 
(o  be  at  the  play  I)y  the  style  of  the  bill  for  the  evenino', 
wl.'ich,  in  such  case  alwnys  betrins  thus  : 

Bt/  coiii.'nc;/id,  their  majesties'  servants  will  perform, 
this  (A-eiiing,  such  a  piny. 

iriiis  tilli-  always  excites  grent  interest,  and  it  becomes 
necessary  to  <jo  to  the  house  at  a  very  early  hour,  if  one. 
would  obtain  a  seat,  tor  there  sccmus  to  be  as  nnich  curi- 
osity in  the  people  of  this  country  to  see  the  king  and 
Muceii  and  royal  lamiiy,  as  if  thev  were  jiewlv  arrived, 
ind  were  the  first  of  their  kind  ever  exhibited.  This  cu- 
riosity was  evinced,  this  evening,  by  a  very  full  house, 
«!ud  i)y  a  <  '•(  t  crowd  collected  around  the  door,  waiting 
file  Hionicul  \.  ;■,.■;  it  .--lioidd  iipen.      A\'lien  tlii^  took  |)lace. 


liir     |H  .iplf     ]iuli;c.|    in   liki'    a    tliMM   ;     tii-      |.,|«v,vj.-   V..i>   ]|,l!- 
V\\.     .li.M     -.|i',l    \^J^    til'-    ^tri;r    illlil     \  iiiii-IK  r.     lii.il    \\:\\    till' 

-  ■;  !■  i:!iin_  ,imI    laiuliii'/  111    li'in  lif^.    it  w.i--   >■  liin  u  iiit  .1.''   ■< 

-  :'.<■;:.  ;i|i;iir. 

I  u<  iK    ii,\  >f.it    ill   I'.if    ]iit.    tiiii  i  ini'jut    ! ;t,i;!ii'? 

■   '  ii.j  liir    Kinj.    ;.iril.i>   cmhi-iiv    \\i--inl\    !':i;(!mii,i!i1!' 
:  .I'll-  wiio    li:i.!   K' Ai  r    (iiMiirf  ■^'•'•ll  :ili\    ^ii\i'ir;.:a    hut   t'lii' 


I    \';\     IlihiJ     1  tiii.i:i!i    1     U'llr!.     (or    ;•     tlllli'.     Willi''     tiirV 

'•  !•  wnliii.'  Ill-'  .iiri\,il  mI  llir  kniL.'  iiimI  ijih'  m.  Miiiiiii: 
11^  iiitii\,ii.  I  li.t'i  i<  iviiri'  111  ^iii\c\  this  v|,;i,i,.ii^  and 
I,  i'_'nitiri:il  till  .nil',  m  wlm  li  I  ^ImH  umi  ii,i\\i'\rr  ;iitcn'|>I 
a  ilr^ri  i|Plio!).  Im  lUiTi'  1  ii^rii  j  it  h  111^  111  Inn'  r'Ulici  ■>  w  illnuii 
■  ill  v^  iii_'N.  ai.'  <•;  .ill  a;i.'ii;Mt^  I  In'  li  .i^i  -iirri'--!u!. 

\!  lii'jili  !ii^  nn|i  ^i\  .iiiisr.i.  .III'!,  in  '■r.\  iiiv|:inl.  tin 
inii>r  r;:iij  \\idi  iia-'i'  iin//.  1'  uilli  l.i.nl  cl.i  |  i|  li  irj  nl 
liiii-'s  .Mil!  \\  .i\  !n„  > 'i  ii  it^  :  llic  a;  i|il:i'i^i'  \\a>  n  ilr;  Mini 
,'  >!  ii  iifial'''!.  111!  iin  \  ^i'<  iii'il  .i^  i|'  tin's  wmilil  ihm'I 
h.'M  li.iim.  'I'ln'  l^im:  li.i'.v  I  In  tin'  iiiiiiii"il  [larl^  nf  ;!n' 
Ii.i':-!'  ami  tn-.k  iii>  ■-■.•. -.i.  \\<  is  ,1  iii.|i|,'  liii.ivr|i_  ..|.|  niaii. 
:':  -!i\  .  VI  ;  IH'I  "|  ;"■  -  ■•'.  '  l\  •  '  a  |iiili  111,  aud  lii-  ri  1:1 11:1  i:a::ri' 
is  ,11  ir  -lilx  CLiii;:-!  .;  lii  i;  ..n  lin'  w  imlr  I  lim;!.  i  i.'  a[i;  nars 
'viiiiii'  •  I    '   I  :;;    ;:l,u  .-;    ,ia\     i.,  1  1    nl     Ills  .rjc    winail    I    iia\i' 

•  \i  I  ^  I.  I  !i.  iiiilli  II-  III  Ills  ciiiinli  II  ilirr  ..  \  1  i\  r,,\-- 
ririi',  I.I  ihii.ia-il  iiii  liir  l,ii.:l!s||  'juiiira.  am!  in  aia:i\  nl 
ill''  laiiiis.  II'  was  lii' ssci!  in  ;i  lilnr  iniilnrni.  laiail  wiiii 
'I'll,  -.uiji  '^...  i  hi''''.  '  |..nil''is,  A  ,'. 

'I  '..■■  1'.'  ■  '.  .  i-  'ill'  .-'h  'i\i  r  III..  !'  it  s'.ilr  i,r  ihr  st.nj''. 
.-n'i"s.ts  Li,-;.'  it.  'mi  |s  a.!iii;ii..|  w  it  ll  sr,i  1  1.  ■!  \  nU  ,  t . 
'  111'"  llislr  li   \\  ;:  !  :      ■..  r    it    is  n  1  .nr '[i\     s  ;|  ,jii  i|  t  ni  j    a 

•  !'  |\\  11.    a  ail  '\V'<  \  •■<    \.i  a  <•'  lin-  .  uai  .is  st  un  1  '"  '■  r'.v  nii  '  i; 


236  A   JOURNAL    OF    TRAVELS    l.V 

jNext  came  the  queen  at  a  short  distance  from  thckine: 
again  the  tlicatre  rang  with  aj)p!auses,  and  her  iiiajesty 
having  graciously  acknowledged  them  by  the  usual  civil- 
ity, was  seated  at  the  king's  left  hand. 

She  is  an  old  lady  of  a  j)leasnnt  countenance,  hut  bear? 
the  marks  of  age  in  a  nuich  greater  degree  ihan  llie  king. 

Ininiciliately  behind  the  king  and  queen  stood  the  lords 
and  ladies  in  waiting.  They  do  not  sit  in  jjresence  ol 
their  majesties,  and,  wliatc\'er  might  be  the  honour,  [  did 
not  envy  tliem  the  pleasure  of  standing  five  horn's  in  that 
-situation,  for  honour  will  not  keep  linibs  hMni  aching. 

Xext  came  the  princesses,  Augu'-ta,  Elizabeth,  Mary, 
Sop'iia.  and  Ainoha.  They  were  receiveil  with  ajjplauses, 
hut  less  arik-ni  than  ihos^'  bestowed  on  their  majesties  ; 
they  retni'iuKi  the  compliment  very  graciously,  and  took 
tlieir  seats,  \hc  Joids  and  laches  in  waiting  taking  their 
•  iatioiLS  itehiiul  them  as  liehind  the  kinnf  and  queen. 

Their  box  is  at  the  richt  hand  ol'  the  royal  box,  and  is 
richly  orname-Ued  with  blue  silk  and  silver  lace.  In  a 
box  immediately  at  the  riaht  of  that,  a  lunnber  ot'  female 
attendants  were  seated — I  believe  tliey  wt^vc  maids  of  hon- 
our ;  they  wore  those  tbrmidable  hoop  jietticoats  which  J 
jnentioned  on  the  birth-day.  Above  the  mai(is  of  honour 
were  otiier  royal  attendants,  lords,  L^entlemen,  tvc. 

The  princesses  ai'e  not  beautihd  women  :  they  are  how- 
ever, with  one  excepiiun,  ladies  of  fine  stature  and  com- 
inanding  presence,  and  h:i\  e  much  dignity  in  their  appear- 
ance. 

Last  of  ;;,iL  a|:ipeared  one  ol  tlie  kinir's  sons,  the  Duke 
of  Cuinbt  rhuid.  b.ut,  he  rame  into  tiie  box  l)elo\v  tiie  prin- 
cesses, on  piwpo>e.  1  presume,  to  avoiti  applause,  fcr  it 
was  not  givMi  till  some  time  in  the  evening,  when  he  rose 


i  \      :,  \\;>.     ll'il.l    \M)      \N"i)     V(  •     I  1  AMI.  .-    ', 

liniii  iniiiiiil  a  -iT>-.;i  and  viicwiil  Imn^i  il.  \\i  <.-  .i  I.aiui- 
MiiHi'  III  ,a  !•;  a!»Mii  iliiitv-diti''  nr  tliirtv  -I.>ar  \  <  ar-  111  a'jf. 
,iv  I  -l:,iii|,i  ^u|i|iosc  ircun  lii>  ciiiiiiti-iuiMcr. 

[I  i\  i'a_  laa^la  il  ilii'  ai'  !iii  ii;>  hii^iih  v^  hI  iiiinn  liiciir'  ai.'i 
-1  ,!,:,;  lii'i;- i:M:''-lif^  ami  lln'  fo\ai  laauly.  w  c  w  ill  [a  >- 
<■-  .■.!  t..  tl.<'  piav. 

IJi-t  r>.  all.  il;-  riiri  im  r.sf.  aipi  .li-cuvi  m!  a  tiim;.. 
"!  ;.  ',,|-.  :i'.i(i  ,;rti>---.  X,  (jn  ta,  ^ia_'f.  w  Im  ^iii:'/  ••  ( <in\  ^  i\  r 
•I' at  '  I'-.n  ■  r  M,,r  i,!iij.'"  1  la'  wlmlr  a^-i!iilil\.  imt  ,<■ 
I'piiiij  III.'  |aaari  ..i>  tiaaii-'  l\  >  n.  piiinil  in  v;ii_iiv_;  i'|. 
I'li'iia^,  wall  a  .li  _]■•<■  ol  ■/.<\<\  ami  aiiiin;i[i,Mi,  wiiirh  (muM 
liai  .i!\   lii'  viii  jia^v,  ,1. 

'I  ill'  |ila\.  uiali  uiv  tiif  >r|i(h.l  !■  t  ^>- :  a' lal,  w  a-  [ht- 
roriii'ii  ill  a  \«c\  a>lai!ial)!i'  inanai'r.  '>Ii>.  .I'a-Man  ami 
\li-^  I'liji--  aia.iM'j  tin  WLin-ai.  ami  l.lii^tiai.  aiimiiL'  lii- 
iinai,  I.'aili'  a!,ii  l\  r\c-i  llrd. 

Il  \<>\i  ii,i\>-  irad  tJif  pln\,  \Mii  will  1'  Ml' ml"  r  liiai 
(  iiaili-,  Miiiaia'.  In  iii'i  l>  dilia'd  tn  fxtitaia'  laa' i  il  lavsmrnl 
li\  la-  "\ui  I  v'ri',  a  J  iia  <•.  av  hi-  la -I  rr-.  mh  r.  t  .  rai-'  lU' ai- 
i-\  .  ia:i:j-lar  laaiiU  | /ni  iii  i-  [.  i  iln'  iMinnirr.  wall  tiic 
-',.  ,     !i\ii\     vNii.iii    ill, I   pla.rji'd    iiiia    ii'lt)   (ii--':i-~.. 

II.  ,1  I,-  wall  wii  ail  .1.,.-  iiii\  iiia'a'  Iin'.  il  iiul  wilii  lii-- 
I  ■•,■  a  I '  '  it .'  !;■>.  a  a'  I  a>  Im''  iM'  larr-  ja  i'  a  \  'n 'I'j  .  la'  \  la''  - 
\\'  ,><  ; .,  •  !  _inal-  \'.  •  i'l',  .laM  li'iw  iI^a  ai-iai  _  iiivln'!  lli'  in- 
^  ■'.  I- .  II .  .  •'  a'-alli  aa  a.  -  lia  ii".  li'!  >'  .wr  \\\"  "\  la.'  laia- 
■>  1;  '  ',,.  i'a  aiin  i  -  ..I  I'a  i  1  la  a,"ai  .  aiai  /'I'V  ,'y  / '/-  li's' 
h  :,,    I'nnf   ! li'  //  //■■  ,'/    ,  ;-,  r  lym:  hi  ,,r  .■  ,J.i. 

^  .    li   >  la.    I    a,|i.  r  ..r  llic  i.alili.-  aaa.!,  ;a.>.iar.  .'  :.\    i'.. 

.  I    'i;        .  !i  II  .  .  ■     .1     |.'  ra!  .''•.a    a"aia  a      i .'  i   1     ^I.  i\  :ili  . 

1   ill  -I'.    In.-  I  •..il-'  I  Laa-  Il    ;•   .!.>i;-\ 

:,  !    )aa._  ii.  •  '  ,.    .._  .aa-!  I;i.-  laMc     I  ,m,.:,    iIm!    lla-    >.  a:  i- 

...   ai    pi.i.l  ;■  ..  i  ;  il.    I.,  ;  i.  -;  ..pn'  "'-■    .  .'  '.liM    la-l  .i  :.-a'  '  ■  - 


238  A    JOrRNAl.    OF    TRAVELS    IN 

iterated,  from  every  side.  I  thought  from  the  king's 
countenance  that  he  was  not  much  efaiiilcd  with  this  very 
distinct  expression  of  tlie  leclings  of  the  house,  for  I^ord 
■Melville  is  a  favourite  with  his  majesty,  Avhc,  in  tliis  busi- 
ness, has  taken  an  active  interest  in  his  behalf. 

The  Sciiool  for  Scandal  abounds  with  point,  wit,  and 
liamour,  for  wiiich  the  king  seemed  to  have  a  high  relish, 
for  ho  laughed  frequently  and  heaitil}'. 

Alitor  the  play.  Rule  Britiatiia  was  sung  b}-  the  whole 
house,  with  great  (nithusiasm,  and  the  princesses  joined  in 
th.is  chorus  also. 

There  was  a  ]ioeiical  prologue  to  the  interlude,  all  the 
lines  of  which  ended  in  ation,  and  l>onaparte,  under  the 
nick-name  of  r<ony,  b}^  whicli  appellation  he  is  contempt- 
uously and  jcjcosely  called  in  England,  was  severely  sat- 
irized, as  well  as  his  long  threatened  invasion.  Tiie  king 
seemed  more  delighted  with  this  than  with  any  thing  :  he 
'aughcd,  almost  continually,  and  the  queen  even  exceeded 
him. 

The  aftcr-jiii.'CG  was  i/nuth,  love  and  Jolli/,  three  j)er- 
sonai!es  whicli,  il  nuist  be  allowed,  are  usually  found  in 
comijany. 

A  leading  circumstance  in  this  play  is,  that  a  lady,  ful- 
ling in  lovt!  with  a  youth  who  is  re(juired  by  a  stern  uncle, 
on  whom  lie  is  depend(>nt.  to  many  anothc^r,  e(iui|)S  her- 
self in  the  dress  of  a  post-boy,  and,  under  this  disguise,  at- 
tends her  lover,  on  pretence  of  bein^^  his  servant.  In  the 
be'jinuing  of  tiie  scene,  the  lady  appears  (ui  the  stage  in 
liiT  proper  dress,  and  ii;is  an  interview  with  her  lo\ei. 
'i'he  uncle,  h(i:!'.''  aniiounced  l)y  a  servant,  she  jirecipitnte- 
ly  retires  in',;)  ;in  adjolnin-i  apnrlme)it,  and.  to  elude  dis- 
^o\*yv.  ill  I!  u  'V  i;i;;U!t<:s  returns  to  the  st;iu<?  in  a  iVo<'k- 


i    -.1    \M),     II'MI.W!)      VM»     -.     >M.\\i).  J,;>> 

■Mi;.  UH'ki  y-<Mji.  ['iiitali'uiw.  aihl  Im.iiv,  ui;li  uliip  ami 
^;  ii  -,  .111' 1  till'  ^1  nil,  Nlrnlr  ami  ^iii.n  t  air  >  i  an  i  i j'l.  -ti  i.in  ; 
!i':t  a!lll.'ilL:li   il'  I"  ilt'licat-'  larr  ailii   fiMiiiliim'  voir.-  I>.|i,i\i  li 

■  ,:•■   \w  1,1  Mil.  >:i''  >t  I'llli-ii   I ':  :  a  I  lU    .11  ra-i'.         I  111--  Il  an^iMi- 

iiiiii  l^  ^'1  caiiiiiii"!!  Ill  .i  II  i>  li  inlK  f.cr  ir|iii  laa,;.  1. 
a,  i!  a  iii'i'i'-t  w.i'ii  ri  laii  ^.i  Mr  nv.  i/niii.'  liir  i>'lm-iama' 
wliiiai  ^!:i'  iiai;!!!  I'>  I''!  I'l  --iiili  an  imi'  r.ii  iini.  a^  to  an- 
j)i  -iv  UN  a  imlilii'  ^laj''  in  ina^nirni.-  ailin',  ^lir  iiiii^t  ai 
I.  a -I  h-  !  .:.j  I'l  l!i  'I  r!  IN,  mT  s  ii  tmui-  u  .urn  11  u  laiin  \,i  li- 
-!i    I-  ilK    "^aiaiiiami.  I N.       >ii.-    is,    m    t'n'  laiiL'uaL'f  d    t!iis 

.  ■Ill'-   .'isi-.  I  !,.  I    "lillllilali    rhar.li  I<  In   :     ••   a    klll'i  "I     ll'lnilH' 

I  1  'iiNiitv  .  thai  i:  '•  i.!n  u|Min  lii''.  .iii.l  lis  i-s  'alia-  iiii'i>l  nl 
■'    ,ia  N  w  i;  j|.  .Ill   '  I'  iiij   il  Ml . 

]'{'.■■  ;i'  I  I  'I  Ml  tari'>  I  !ii  -  i'\  -  iii  ii .-  u  .  i  ■■  Imw  .'M a'  tnlia  iMv 
'  -  :  I  .  1  w  la  I '  -p.  '  I  1. 1  .1'  la  I'  \  .  hii;  i  li.  i  r  \s  i  i  >■  v;  i||  m,!,!'^ 
l!  ;■■  -  ■'.  !  a  a  .1  U'!'.  '.aiiil  ih't  ("  11'  .li  \s  a  li'iiil  a  l!"\'.  ii  m 
I   ■  1  ■ .  -il. 

'!  I:"  I;   il'a   1<.    Iiic    lia'  ilT'-  i>   ii  .1   a    -'  I""  !   I'.r   iiaaalN  :    il 

•  '  ! .  ;  ■  1 1 . 1  a  I ,  \    -  I'  1 1  1 1 1 1 1 1  ■  :    1 1  I  -  a  - 1 '  i '  m  1 1  1    i  .  ^  i  ai ,  a  - 

■       ■     '   1.1  li,  'N'    \\  11"    111  > '    la  1  w  .  ■■  M-  \  ;.  \>  N    ill  ,!;- 

'  '     '  ■  ,  ■  ■  1   1 11  ' !  t .  I   I  i '  ■  N  I  a '  ■  I  i  a ■  1 1 1  . '  a  I   •  11 1 '  I  1  1 .  a  1 1 1 1  ; a   I  - 

■  a,     I    -     .'ia.a  \   I.;,, I  .-I. 

\  '   '  ."  .-I  la'  'i|-ain  1  a    lie-  jn  i  lormaai'  n.  i  ;,    !,  ia_ .  (.a    ■  a 

I    ■  .  ■!   !aiii.i\     I-  !:.'■!.   w    til    a;.|''  1  1   I  ~.    a'  .ji ail   a^  w  ia  ii 

;!'  \   '  nil  I  ''■!.      'i  il''  ill.  aa  •  N    alw  .r.  N    hav  .■  ~i  .!.l!'  i  >    ,a    ,ii- 

■''■''■    '■  1    !  if'  -1  !  ',  ■■    '  a-.i'  I   :    .1    I  \'.     -    a!  :i  '  I  .    \ul  il    11  \i  '  1 

'.       .    1         I  aa!\    .ii'iaail    li -,       1  .Ji'i    ii"i 

-   .-'  1  \  '      ,1   i-.V  '■■>',    !  a  It   t  111  !!■   hillilii'  ;    \v  ..  ~ 


\  -  Il '  I  a  I  •!  i  ai-  ii  I '!'■  1  JK'l'-  Il  '  '  la-a  riuii"  I '';  ir  '  \\  a 
' '  1  111  ' ; .  I '  ' '  I  .  1 1  >  I  1 1  j )  j ' '  1 N  1 1  ■  1 1 1 1;  1 1  I  -  N 1 . 1  a  -  1 1 .  ■  I  ■  1  i  I .  ■.  I  '.  '  ■  i  1 1  \ 
I'  I'  lit    p'lN.iijN.      >"ai''  liai-'i's   N  !  \  ,    lii.ii    I,.;    i>  in    ia~ 


240  A    JOtn'vXAL    OF    TRAVKI.ii    I.V 

(lotasic.  ami  w'thout  hesitation  repeat  liis  remarks  witli  an 
air  of  ridicule,  and  \)\iS[h  at  his  oddities.  These  things 
depend  very  niiich  on  the  political  prejudices  of  the  indi- 
vidiial.  'i'he  truth  is,  however,  that  most  persons  in  En- 
<lland  have  little  knowledge  on  this  subject,  because  they 
have  kw  opportunities  of  knowing  any  thing,  of  the  royal 
family.  Peter  Pindar's  scurrilous  muse  has  furnished  ev- 
ery low^  \vitling  witii  ridiculous  anecdotes  of  the  king,  and 
they  are  retailed  with  as  little  knowledge  and  as  little  so- 
licitude regarding  their  truth,  as  is  felt  in  America.  Some 
persons  in  the  opposition  make  no  secret  of  their  ardent 
V.  ishes  foi-  the  elevation  of  tJie  Prince  of  AVales,  and  ear- 
nestly look  tbrward  to  that  day. 

A  stranger  will  not  be  in  haste  to  ally  himself  to  the 
prejudices  of  any  description  of  j^arty  politicians,  or  of 
their  followers,  but  will  attentively  consider  the  evidence 
on  both  sides  of  tlie  question. 

The  following  anecdotes  concerning  tiie  king  will  illus- 
trate his  hrmness,  his  magnanimity,  and  his  discernment. 

A\'lien  the  kinof  was  shot  at,  a  few  years  aiio,  in  t'le  the- 
atre, instead  of  manifesting  any  weakness  or  fear,  he  mere- 
ly turned  to  a  lord  in  waitin<r,  and  said  :  '■  Sir,  ])lease  to 
go  i;ack  and  tell  the  ladies''*  liot  to  come  in  yet.  J'tjr  t/icre 
viaji  he  nnoihcr,''  and  then  (juietly  took  his  seat. 

'I'owards    the   huter   part   of  the   American   war,   Col. 

!'n<mhu!l,  who  had  i)orne  arms,  in.  a  distinguished  station, 

atniinst   llie    kini^',   and   whose   father,  ihe   lirst  f»overnor 

Trumbull  of  Connecticut,    was  well   known  in    i^nidand, 

lor  iiis  veiy  active  and   efficient  sup[)ort  of  the  American 

ri.c  ';ii<'t'ii  and  pi-iMC('--:o.s  who,  accordini;  to  nistoin  wvvc 
Mailing-  ill  ill;  ailioiiiii);^  I'dcsii,  and  would  a-;  a  tiiaC'ji' of  course- 
have  come  hi  wiilir.i  a  few  udiiute-'. 


t  \.  I  wn.    II'.;. I  \Ni)    w  [)   •     '  '.  i  ■  \i) 


iM^   ■  -.  ^:,.  \\. 


W     .1. 


i  I ,       .  1 .    \  \ 


\., 


;!i.-  ,1.1   >■;   :■  ;::,t- 


l.i     |.i    t:ir    , 


Ml    \\  .  -t      I 


242  A    JuURNAt,    OK    IRAVLLS    IN  # 

"  therefore  repose  implicit  confidence  in  this  repn^senta- 
•'  turn. 

"  This  young  gentleman  must  in  the  mean  time  sufler 
"'great  anxiety;  he  is  in  the  power  of  the  law,  and  I  can- 
"not  at  present  interfere.  But  go  to  him.  and  assure  him 
"  from  me,  that  in  the  worst  possihle  legal  result,  he  has 
'•'  my  royal  word,  that  his  life  is  safe.''' 

"Mr.  West  came  to  me  with  this  message  immediately, 
and  you  may  well  believe  that  it  softened  essentially  the 
rigours  of  an  imprisonment  of  viglit  mouths.'"' 

If  you  consider  who  was  the  king's  prisoner,  that  he 
was,  in  his  view,  a  rebel,  and  had  just  come  from  fighting 
in  an  elevated  station  against  him;  that  his  lather  was  a 
most  active  and  eificient  h<  ad  of  one  of  tlie  most  actively 
and  invcteiately  rebellious  states,  I  think  you  will  allow 
that  the  king's  ar.swer,  v  hich  amounted  to  tliis — ''should 
the  courts  of  law  cond  .-mn  him  to  death,  I  will  save  his 
life  by  a  pardon,"  constitutes  one  of  the  finest  passages  of 
kindly  history,  and  could  never  have  proceeded  from  a 
little  mind. 

Another  anecdote  Vi'iiicii  1  have  from  a  source  equally 
entided  to  confidence,  illustrates  the  king's  sagacity  and 
|)rrsence  of  nrmd.  Whatever  may  be  the  merits  of  the 
Irish  ijiiestion  of  Catholic  emancipation,  it  is  wellkn^nvn, 
tliat  the  Kinir,  has  alwiiys  stated  conscientious  scrupirs  as 
ihe  eround  of  refusing  his  countenanee  to  the  various  pro- 
jects wiiicii  have  been  starKnl  lor  effecting  this  object. 

After  lie  had  i;i  a  great  measure  lost  his  eye  sight,  but 
bcfor  his  mental  powers  were  at  all  impaired,  a  new])ro- 
ject  was  submitted  to  him;  regarding  liish  emancipation. 
A  pa|<er  was  read  to  him  proi'essetlly  contaluina  this  state- 
nie'.it,and  his  roval  siunutme  vas  rcfjuested  and  expected, 


T  Nil    \  \  f),    til/:.:      \,)        \,,  1  ,    .  ,-1,  _   ;  , 

111  Ihr  il'CUiMi  III  !''!i'\  i"i'.i,(.ll>  .1  \i  ',  .i.lV.li.;!  ;.jl...  . 
'I  ln'  kill.:  mimi  ,1:  iii|\  s;i-,  n  ;<■,!  \'r.'0  ii  v\  i--  ..ii  I'tii  ;;i'.t  io 
iMij'''^'-  uiiwii  hull  111  i-,'ii>i  ,'^:i  ,:■  1  (ii  t,.  •  I  !;;;  'iii  -~  :  tiiil. 
\vi'iiH;I  .li-'-DN  (  1  in.'  M.i  -;l~|li'i'iil.  lri]i:>  v'l  •!  llii  jui^'i'l 
w  !n>  li  1  i  it  .-('l  l!;.-  \<  .;)<  V.  [■>  j.i  I"  ;i  r,it,.i;:  ,  /  ,  .  .  ,i;i.!  ,,!)- 
t.iwi  ,111' it  lb  I  I  lip'  I  \>  iiif  1 1  \\  '-  \v  .mil  -i.  Ill  lip'  ;i:i  'm  Mh'. 
li  i\  MIL'  'Ji't  li'l  "!  Iiii-  ii:  .;i,  ill'  1'  ';mi  >;<  i  .1  I  h;i  J  |  m  ;  i  ii, 
w  IP'  iiii  1  .n'l-i.ii  'It  lil',    (>■:::••  i'l,   1 1  >  In    m  >  ■_•"■ »  i    i  -  t"  1'    i.i    '<'■ 

ll.'l  a.'  liIl  ll|i-  .  :  ■  H  I  \S  ;i:.  il  •  111  rir--t  |li  I  -nil  li  ;;|  |  i  .  il,  --■  ii 
til   :i  a\.   -In',,,     til  1 1    I;,     liii   !H.I     (|   lltr    ll'l'li'l  -  MliM    it.        Ill 

ili.!  -'..  .iii.i    i;   '.v  iiN  |mii:;i!  :,.  '",■  a  <.,v\   i]\\"'  m  i;!  li.i:':  !'i..pi 

will'  it  >\  ,>  vi  It,  i  1,,  1;  ■  ;.,:.i  i.!ii..;N  (.'Kir.irv  l.>  iii. 
kill ,  "-   \  ii  '.^  -. 

II      I  :i,lii',i-it.  1\    i,ii|.iii'.i   liii!  a-   ii      III  Ml',   iiC  (Willi!   l!"i 

Irii-t   III-    -■  !  \  ':il-.    ii:'  \V''  i!  i  im  !-!,:•  i   t  'ii^'l.  \    l!i<':ii.  ami 

w  jtii' '  It   li'  !a\   ;  M   1,1    '  I  iiiMii"  \',  :.  '.'    ',:  ,;i-i :  .   aiai  m.!*  it'ii  a 

111    W    nil"    ;    i    !)•■    :'■:_    Hii/i-   I. 

\  ^    I  M  1 1 . 1 ;  V  1 


\  ■    1   \^  I-    \\  .li  A  'I :,  I  III'  I  i''ii  r  1)  i\  .    ,11,11(111'    III  'V  a!   I .  \- 

I  1;  111  :i-.  I  I  '  '.!•■  ,1  ,l!'.  nu  I  ..a  '  -!  J  ai  ■^li  •i.ii.ini-r  \\  Ir  mi  1  ii,,.! 
k  .  1  •  >  >'■  !  -•■.::!  ',  1  -  a  • .  I .  ■  \  \  1 1 1  •  i  •  i .  I  \v ,  i  -  1 1 ,  i  -  > :  1 1  j 
lap.  I!-,  '.iii.,.i  ii  a  r. -'.',).  a:i  i  I."  .''-.i.  kit  in  iln  ,  .| ., ,,  i  ,ii.- 
(i.i  I    :.Mi.      W  !■   >   .  , .  Ml  I   M  ii  ..Lin  ,  a   ,'  ,1 .  -  -  !  .ail  k.'ii  li 

tlii.i;!\  -.  .  !.'  .  \:\  aia' \  j.i  <  !•■  J  iia  I'a  i.l  !■!  llii-  kil.il  la  a 
Iia .  ;  .  1  lai  iMii  *  I  li  I'll  :i:i'^  •  aaa  ,ni  i  i  !i:  ia  r  i!'  n  a  nl  ia- 
I.  I  ■  -:  I--  !■  \  III  I  ill  III  w  ii  It  ■..  I  ;'  1  li.i\ .  'i.  .  ,1  11,  iaa.  , !  iiv  ,1 
'J  i  I  ■  1 1 1  r  I  i  •  .  •  ■(  ■  I  a  1  i  1  i ' :  1 11 '  ^  .  1 1  I  M 1 1 1  •  ■ .  I  I  i  II 11  i  \'.  i  ■ !  1  I  I ; ; 
L^iM!!  i>  ;;i  m;  I  i-  '  i  v  .  aa^l  aa  t  lia  i  ,  a  i  i  k^ii  |.,'i  I  \  .  -- 
\  1 1 1 1 M I .'  I  ■  h  a  1    \^  a  •    ail    I .  a  : ! ;  • '  i  : .  k  \  - ,  •  .  ; :  i ,    u  1  n  i    .i.  '      'v\  i  i  a 


liaal    (••.iiu 


;r  .    \\  la  11    ji    \ii 


\ 


2!44  A    JOUBNAl.    or    TKAVKLS    1\ 

'i'owii.  This  incidcntj  of  course,  excited  sonic  interest 
uii<i  produccil  conversation.  The  ccntleman  to  whom  I 
allude  spoke  in  the  I'.ioliost  possible  terms  of  Cencral 
VVashinoton  :  and  ijuleed.  concerninLr  iiim,  there  appears 
to  be  i>iu  (!ne  senlimem  iii  Knii^'.r,d.  Even  the  kiniT; 
who  is  said  to  'iave  d,;c]ari^I,  durinir  the  wIioIp  of  the 
Aiuerican  war,  tiuit  if  the  .\meriraiis  prevailed,  \\'ashii!g- 
ton  would  f;n;;;!v  prove  the  lyraiit  of  his  conntrv,  when 
he  %'olunta;'iiV  relln.'iuislied  liis  command  of  the  army, 
proneuriced  thnt  he  was  a  creat  and  ;;ood  man. 

riie  Kin'.:  is  s-.iid  ai>o,  when  srettini:  into  his  carriage  at 
Kfw,  to  !;a'.e  !,'  en  overheard  In-  two  Americans,  while 
he  e::j;r('s:>ed  hiin-vif  tims,  !o  one  of  his  ministers  :  '■'  We 
must  p'crsever;' — v:c  nmst  Mcrsevere — it  icrts  by  pro-.-tc- 
I'cranrp  that  'li'ui^lhi^j^ton  (ind  rranldin  carrjrd  I'uir 
points.'' 

The  v;j!,i(.(t  (irci;;5vcrsation  was  not  understood  by  the 
i-'enrieinan  who  evcrheard  this  rcs-uask. 


o^i'.  — ^'c;'!'  i'!i';'t:')ii  of  ;ui  ( ;M;r'i;  a  oi'  \:'-iivii:-'-  *■■!  i'^tul'-- - 
:^vp(;:i;- — ''■'v{-''h':c^  frt'  '!'c:i';caii -- ''rti-i'crt  iVoin  die  ^;:ii!riv 
■-r:>'i!,'i  :':;■  -if!';- --'J  iu;  *n  !,'- ;  .-.'l^ir  ;;rilo;y--'!"iic  -i-a!  hill. 

V  \ '•'■''{:  w  \  o!'  ■y]\v.  HATif-i:  i>:'  \'\':<ru\  \vv. 

J, I,""    i  ;. —  f    j[i;iit   -^ome    tifO''    to-i'.iy  in    \ic\\in'r    thi; 
:>iini^'a'iia  (It  ill"  iiaifle   of  A  iriiicourt.  painted    hvi'"!'':- 


i:\i.i,  \>i>,  iioLi.\M»  AM)  -' OTi  \N!i.  :^  ;.i 

l'lioM>  of  lln'  haltli'  ul"  Aloxainliia  an. I  nf  llu'  pa-'-a'jr  i>! 
thr  lu'hii:!'  Ill'  Loili.  li\  till-  >anii-  arli^!.  \\rn-  f\l:i!)itc(i  la-f 
u  inii  r  ill  l!n'  <'it\  ol'  \cu-\  c.rk.  'Vln-  1  itiiT  I  siw  iIick'  in 
j.iiia.irv.  il  was  a  \ri'\  L'lan.l  iiaiiiliiiL'.  an  I  -m  is  this  n| 
tlh'  lialllc  ul'  X^'inrMurt.  Tin' linii-  di' thr  hull.  i<  ih  il  in 
w  liich  lli'iirv  \  .  ihsiiioUMls  i.)  .Iilt'iid  hi-  nmilit  r  ihc  1  )lll^'• 
m"  ( ;h)U(TNi,<r.  w  li.i  has  ['alli'n  ui.w  n  u  .-uii.lf.L  'I  h. 'if  is 
(iiif  ildi'^htiiil  .fl'i  .  t  [ir.i.;:!.-.  .1  h\  ihi-  paintiiiL'.  I'r.au  lii^ 
r.ialusi.in.  sjiIimhI' 'i',  an.l  ihiMihiil  rainajc  ol  the  halt!;'. 
\m;i  tinii  tt>  ih.'  lijhl  si.lc  i>i  the  |iirti!r('.  \sh>'!i'  ihf  lixcr 
^.Miinif.  \\  iu'iin.'  t;i  .lU'.'h  a  eh  irn'.iiiL'  c.Mnitrv.  |ii'c-.'nt-  all 
1  III'  iiiili  he  iiiii.-s  .if  I  miis.'ajic.  .  11  w  ii:/h.  lli:'  ry\  tun.  ill:: 
with  h.ii  r.'i'  Ir^  nil  -rcn.-  df  hlo.i.j,  il.  h.,'iil>  t.i  iijiiist  . — 
I'hi-  haith'  \\:i-  |iLri.'iiMi>.!v  stl.'.'ii.j  |j\  ih'-  ]ia'  it.'r.  lur  it 
u  as  oiH'  ol'  till'  nn'>t  sp'rinh.l  uliich  tin-  l.ii  li-h  ;■:.]).''< 
al'ia-.h 

It  wis    I.ia'jht    hv    llrnrv    aLMins!    iniMi'ii-'    ..^iiN;     tli<' 
Ih.'iifji  l.i-i  tt  n  t!i"  i-ainl  ih'Mi  -l.nii.  aiiinii  ;  \i  ii.  ipi  \', ,. s  the 

(1    ,\\.T   (it     liuir    iLiLilitX.    whih-   th.'    IjIlI'-!!    h^-t    chi',      '    !r\\ 

h;m  !r<'>i-..  'I  ii.'ir  jui-.nifis,  aii.T  li,!'  !m!i!'',  i":i",r!'.i-.:  t.' 
in.'i.-  1  liaii  !  hi-ii-  w  !i.)i"  arni\  . 

'I'Im-    [i.iiiiti  r  has    i:;lr.>l:n'.';l    (Wir    \  .•:  \    ::::>■   '  i  '•■  '  '' 

(I  1 1:  I  \  all'  !ii-:'  .1  \  .  \  'I  I  ji"!  >h  II'  :hl.  1  1  .1  u  ■  -  ',  '.  i\v.-  i 
ilil. .  t  htsi-  \\  a  I'-  ii\  liiN  uil.'.  \\\t".  artlial.'i  |.\  a'ait.-ll. 
a('ri)!iijiairii  .liiiia.  ill  ihi'  r!iai  .a'l  rr  .  .l"  a  i  alt'  ii. !  '  !■*  :  Ilii- 
sh''  .inl.  .!:'■>-.  i!  :.i  ir.a-.'aliiM'  aliiiaa  ar  1  i  I  i  I  la  aiai.ii:. 
■\  I;.  I  'J  lli  I  p^  ilir.i>a.  a  I  ia'  caa  i  ]  la;  ii  I.i  tlia!  tiiiia  w  i' h  >a  li  i  \  , 
tia'  la.iiliai;  til  a'll  la  lliiv  Laltii'.  ai;.:  hi-  wil-'  i-  r\h:li;;.'.l 
.11  '  ijf  III  -;  1 .11 '  I  \  \  ,iii~,  I  a  'Jilt:.  st.H .;  .<  n  ■  ii\  >  |-  iit  i-  vl  ^  m  ■ 
'  .'■'!.  ai  I'  i  .  ;  .'I  rl :  a  '  'he  si  .ii  a.  is  \\  ho  -'  i :  ;  u  'it  h  lai  1. 1  hi-' 
i"">    •  '  •;%   ;i:'in  ;h"  In-Ki.      'I'iii-  :iai;'i    '^as   j'.ai;:'.!  w  <  ).  - 


2 16  A    JOniXAI.    OF    TRANELS    IN 

t(*l;c!-,  j  4] .";  •    th(,' picture  covers  Ijctween  two  and  tliret' 
lli()::^aiul  tc'ct. 

I  aiii  fond  of  j)anor;inias.  especially  of  battles.  Their 
nia<r!iit(ul(>.  the  ctnis  ('/h'!',!  distinctness  of  the  objects,  and 
the  ciiciilar  p<;si:;in  of  the  can\  ass,  correspondino' with 
the  rt;d  horizon,  all  tend  to  t^i^e  one  the  strongest  impres- 
si'ir.  of  ihe  r(vdity  ol'  the  scene,  'i'hey  are,  at  ))resent. 
nuicii  ii)  \o'.rue  in  Ihi^dand.  I  have  already  mentiontHJ  a 
very  frnc  one  of  the  rock,  fortifications,  and  bay  of  (iibral- 
{;';,  wilh  a  portion  of  (lie  adjacent  parts  of  S})ain  and  of 
I'le  opposite  coast  of  Africa.  1  hey  are  exhibited  in  bnii- 
dina''^  coiistructed  on  pur[!0»u'  for  their  reception;  they  are 
circrtiar.  like  un  an!p!d  theatre,  and  liglUed  only  from. 
M.bove. 

T)U  BOURG?  CORK  MODELS. 

June  18. — Siiice  my  arrival  in  Lon.don,  I  have  inei 
with  some  of  iiiy  ;•  liov,  jjassengers  in  ihe  OiUario.  Prob- 
ably tiiere  are  a  few  accidental  nieetinos  whicdi  excite; 
niore  ir.lciTst  than  ilioie  pro(hiced  iiy  bcinii  lii'llow-passen- 
gers  on  boaid  a  ship,  and  1  liave  not  often  been  nuire 
;-;iatilied  with  any  similar  incident  than  in  findint''.  in  this 
in)nn  iis!,'  wildenn  ss  of  men,  !>r.  l» and  C'apit.  T . 

Tiny  l)reak fasted  with  nn'  this  morninsr,  ami  we  went 
rioon  al'ter,  to  sec-  Dn  Boura's  Cork  modtds  rsf  amdent  teni- 
])i<'s,  theatres,  niai;si  hnniis.  A  c.  p.rincipaily  IJoman. 

This  verv  innenions  man.  Dn  ilomsr.a  i'lenclnnan,  from 
;;;i  actual  ros;:!cr,re  of  nine  ye;!rs  in  Italy,  eaineri  the  infor- 
iiritloi!  !i(  ccs-arv  lor  the  e\rci;lIoi;  <!l'his  wonderfnl  w(.rk. 
ii  would  I>e  doiiia  him  iivi  at  injuslici'  to  consider  his  exhi- 
bition me!-el;\  .■■-  a  display  of  inv.emiily.  In  this  view 
ylr.;i;>  it  m!'V.  eyxh''   'diniraiion  :   but.  froui  the  veiv  i^'iTvc- 


IIm.ii;iii  ahl!' j.iiii''-.  it  '  iii:)iiiM!i!r, •.!•■>  m  :    :i  iii  ii_:;t   .iini  i'l- 

-!l  ih'ti'MI.  Ill'  !l.l>  cohti  i<,  •  i  '>■,  1  r  .i<'\  i.\  iM'i^  il.'l:''. 
\vi!!i  ,1  !rl!i  ■.'I'Ui'-ilt  ;i:ii|  ]iUI;;.  t'l  •_  !  \  i  |.i  r;,.-',  i-,.^,\i  -  I'l 
-'111-    I'l    ill.'    iii'i-[    .1  !:iiiii'.i   1  ii,i>  I'l     ,ni'.iii'.it\  .  ■         \lii':ii: 

I'll!    !•!    till'  ~.  jLiliMl.;',   ■> .    ;'l-   !m  !..ujiii_'   ;i .    i'.ii'    V|,iiili,. 
|.nn;'\  .   ihimiT  a  \  iiii-\  iiii   i:i  .n"  itniiir. 

I  ||'    -■  ji  .!■  Ill  1-  111  iii<'    '■.••  jiM    !■  1,11,1  s  .  ii'ar    till'     V  j,j  i:  Hi 
\\   ■  V  .  ;  I!  •  ■    iiii:'  ■-  l!  I  i!ii   li'iai'-. 

'1  II  il    wl    I;i  ■     IImliI;!    a!|,j     (    i,i  i,,I  i:.  ,il      Vii'Mi.'.    I  w  i  U  , 
Ijii!    -   'V'>:i\    I!   ''.!>'. 

\  II  _i,"-  I..  ii!i.  al    r  i';-;;';in.  •.:.  n  \  ip!    ,. 
I  .!r  am:  ilii,  I!'  al  I'l-  a!  \  I'lnii  i,    -.i:  i    i-i  l<v  \  )<■    Hii'-I   ('•■■i- 

ii'i't    IMW    Ii'ai  ilt.iii..        I  ill-    i-  .1    la.'-I     111;,  !i     'ai.    tr. '.  ; 

i !   ■_  1  \  1  -  I J  a  • '  a  r ,  1 1 1 1  j ' ! '  la  1 '  1 1  ■  I   1 '  I  a     1  i  ■  ^  :'.'.,<   .  i   a     a  a    ,    ,  •  i ,    — 

1 1    \\  a  -  r a  1 1  1 1 )  1  r  '  1 1     '.  ;  s  I  a  '     -i ' ,  1 1  -^    ;  ■  i    i ,  i   ■ ;  ■     ;   ,  ■  a    1 '  \    :  ■.\  a 

lil.ii-aiii     |Hii|,li.    In  -,   a  -    .1    '^.ili'i'v     ;  ,i     I\\,    (•>    lli'i-a.M 

!i.,  a  ■  .  .Ill  i  \uii  11  <■!  •  lu  ,  ;•  1 1.  II  \\  ■  lalJ  In  '1,1  a; '  s  i  i;, .  ,-  , ,    !. 

l:l   -aril     |.!ai't  -   l\a  .la,  a'l.I     ll'ail  ill-  a--i-i..     '•    ..    \<>    -'  ■•' 
(|i,,v  (',,;ai  -t,  ,,|    \^  ;i.,  a,   .-!-  v\  aa  ^i  1  :,.iImi  -.    -.i  '.  "i  .■'  i'  i- 

a!    a  -     Willi     '      ail     ..;,..  r.     \'  :;  a  ii    ,  ;.  ~     ,     la  ,  1     i   i        i   i  i  ,  ■  ■   ■  i  v    , ,; 

I     .■    :■  .      na  lai  ..|     1      .  ,:  >.  aa.l   la-     'I.    a;. I-    .  • 

.  I  a  a  i       I     ,  \    I M 1  a  I  i    1 1 .    a  a  ■  i    !   i    a  a ,  • !   i    a  a  ,  a       ■  a  : 

l!a      1  ■  I  .  I,, jar   ,,;     In-   >  ■,  'lii-.   i   x.j   a      a      , 

,,    il  ;  .  I, a-   I.,  a  :    1,    ■      ■ 


24S  A    JOURNAL    OF    TPwVVELS    I\ 

The  great  cascade  of  Tivoli,  with  the  town  and  adjoiu- 
hig  country,  presents  a  very  interesting  scene.  Here  the 
artist  has  contrived  not  only  to  give  correct  copies  of  a!! 
the  fixed  objects,  but  he  has  represented  the  fall  and  roar- 
ing of  the  water  in  such  a  manner,  that  the  allusion  is 
complete.  The  water  seems,  to  the  eye,  actually  to  pour 
down  the  preci]iice,  with  copious  foam  and  spray;  that 
is,  machinery  gives  motion  to  something  which  has  the 
appearance  of  water  in  violent  agitation. 

The  last  thing  which  I  will  mention  is  JMount  A  esuvius. 
as  it  appeared  in  the  eruption  of  1771-  ^\  e  were  con- 
ducted behind  a  curtain  where  all  was  dark, and  thioiigh  a 
door  or  window,  opened  tor  the  purpose,  we  perceived 
Mount  Vesuvius  throwiuii  out  tiro,  red  lio't  stones,  smoke 
and  flame,  attended  with  a  roaring  noise  like  thunder; 
tlie  crater  glowed  with  h  -at,  and,  near  it,  the  lava  had 
burst  through  the  side  of  the  mountain,  and  poured  down 
a  torrent  of  liquid  tire,  which  was  tending  toward  the 
town  of  Portici,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and  toward 
the  sea,  on  the  margin  of  which  this  town  stands.  The 
waves  of  the  sea  are  in  motion — the  lava  is  a  real  Hood  of 
glowing  and  burning  mutter,  which  tliis  irigenious  artist 
contrives  to  mana<j;e  in  such  a  manner  as  not  to  set  fire 
to  liis  cork  mountain.  The  flames,  cinilers,  fiery  stones, 
&c.  are' all  real,  and  it  is  only  conceiving  the  scene  to  be 
at  sach  a  distance  as  creatly  to  reduce  the  scale  of  the 
mountair,  and  one  wiL  thus  obtrin  not  only  a  very  im- 
pressive l)iit  probab!\a  correct  id  a  of  its  presence. 

In  the  erujiiiou  of  177' i  the  lava  I'an  down  a  prrci])ice 
of  seventy  or  eijdity  fe  't.  and  prcsenred  tlie  awful  view  of 
a  cataract  of  fire.  Tiiis.  also,  by  shifting  his  macJiinery, 
Du  Bourg  lius  contrived  to  ohibit  in  a  very  striking  nuur- 


f  M.I    WD.     H'll  I    \  M»      V  Ml 


II.      •,.    -     •  :,-•      I     .:       Oil,    ,i     I 


::'  ,    .     .11  :    I   -i.;'j.,-'    !..'■.     I.-    -'I 

,.;  !':•     - ■.  l.'i   IM,'  ,1.  ..!;  •    j'iir- 

!  i|i     Ip'  \    >  1'  ijil  !■  ':'^. 
1;   \  ■  :  ■.    ;;r!ii.    Hi  !  'A  ill  li<  .il"  .i  !l  U'  i 


),.  i; 


-  i    )'  \;  I,  - 

.'  ,iiii;  mn  I'r^;  i.;  -  .■.  m'  I  w  t  m  w  iili 
111"-.  ;ii:'  i  ',','  \  I  \  irw  111  ill!  ^  \  ,1-1 
:'  '     I !    v|i  :ir   ,  ,1    ( !.Mii   '    ;   .-■  \<r  [n    i  i;ii-  n! 

, ; .'  ;:ii  ■   i  n',  ■  iini  imii^  i  i!  :n    i  !i  Mi  .n  rlii- 
:   ,1  ,;.  w-,i|,l:..:i    ■.!    ->.    I'.iMl^.— 

.  •  ;  ,1  ■  ill'  I  I'l'l',:"'  '  ■!  I  .■  lii'  !•  Ml.  .  ■  'I. 
It  i>  •  .11-.  .1  .  !\  rii  1.  .  t.  1,1  I!.  •  .!,•- 
.,-  ,1   -  iijiil  il"  ri\  i']:',i[.{\\r<\  ;       •      '- 

■'\,    \  ,  .,1-  '..,  If,-,  I    !     ,-   ,  !i 
..    N...   I    :    ,    '     -.1..        /,     ■, 


2'iO  A    JOUKXAL    OF   TRAVRLS    iN 

clrcumncvvigalion  of  charily,  in  Vfhicb  it  was  not  his  ob- 
ject to  survey  th.e  grandeur  of  tomplf's  and  palaces,  but  to 
take  tiie  guage  pjkI  dimensions  of  hunicin  depression, 
misery,  sorrow,  and  contempt.*"  Here  is  also  a  statue  to 
Johnson,  to  Sir  William  .lones,  and  to  Captains  Burges 
and  i'"a!coner.  who  fell  in  battle.  All  these  statues  arc 
executed  in  tl;r^  finest  st\le  of  modern  scul})ture,  and  are 
very  ornamciUHl  to  tlie  church. 

Within  tiie  doriU'of  St.  i';uirsare  suspended  a  consider- 
able numl'tr  of  tla'is  taken  at  different  times  from  the  ene- 
mies of  Engiand,  (fj,  the  price  of  blood. 

Among  tiieso  1  viewed  with  strong  emotions  those 
which  were  won  by  General  Wolfe  on  the  plains  of  Abra- 
hau),  in  th-,-  (iccisive  battle  which  gave  him  victory  in  the 
moment  of  d-'alh. 

lit  re  also  hanGf  the  tattered  trophies  of  the  san<iuinary 
field  of  Bl(>)djeim  :  thev  are  six  or  seven  in  number; — 
now  very  mu^  h  muliiated  I:>y  time,  but  still  serving  to  ex- 
cite many  a  heioic  and  melancholy  emotion. 

Willi  th' St  intcresfie.fj  remnaiit-;  of  the  dreadful  conflict 
at  Uleuheim,  one  naturally  associates  the  recollection  of 

■  ••'  lie  lias  visiicii  all  F.ii.rojjf,  not  to  survey  the  suiii|>liii)ii-np";s 
ofpaliu-ps,  ii')i-  lilt-  =ii\tf'linoss  of  tc'tii|ilps  ;  not  1o  in;ike  acciiratf 
nica'.iirfinr'rils  of  fi.r;  remain^  (if  ancient  i^raiuledr,  nor  to  form  a 
S(;ale  of  tli(;  cu;  ioTltic-  of  inodeni  ;irt  ;  ikjI  to  coiloct  meila!.-,.  nor 
to  collate  i)i;'jui--cri|)ts  ;  but  to  dive-  into  the  cli|  tii-^  of  diin'.con-, 
(O  plunpre  into  tlie  infection  of  iiosiiilals.  to  rtovey  the  mansions 
of  soiTow  antl  pain  ;  t'O  tal^e  ;';iia';e  ai;J  dirMen>ioiis  of  mi.-eiy,  de- 
jirrs'^lon  iiiid  ciMi'v'uijit  ;  io  iTiiieniijec  tiie  foi-:oiten  ;  to  adeiid  to 
the  iie.d"''''"'! ;  lo  vi^it  the  t'oi>-.;ken  ;.  and  to  "onii'arc'  ami  collate 
ilie  di-!i-e-;si'-  i)f  all  men  in  ail  coiintries.  Hi--  |)!ani-'  oj'i!.'i,ial.  an(» 
it  is  a-  full  oi'-enin;  as  it  is  of  Imma.ni' y.  It  is  a  voyac'  of  phJ'nn 
fh'-iqiu — u  cii'('U!:'i;;o.-i:;;>!iMii  of'eharife  '' 


IjC'i'.i.  \SU.    ili'l.f.  \>i)      .  •■  !> 


ilii-  ;\inl)ili<>u>.  \;iiii.  an  I  luMil,!  i>  I. wins,  ;i;iii  I'l  lii>  :ilii>- 
tli'iii-  Nruiir-^r.  ;lic    i)llk''  of  \I,tr!ii"rM;i_;i. 

\\  <  aMiMi.i<ii  111  till'  ijaili'is  wiiii'li  MM  I  iMimU  lln"  r\ir- 
I  iMi  1  if  I  111  ■  I  i.  1111''.  ami  ti'iik  a  \  i-  w  i>l  I'm-  aiua/.in^  ^ir  if  line, 
all]  III  lfn'  imniiMl^r  cits  ill  ullirli  it  jv  sil;i,itii|.  1  f  .imi 
i>  tc}0  Lf:i'at  I'lir  ili^tuirt  <'i)i:ipri'lii-n>i.in  at  ,i  -iii'.'li' \  ii  w  :  i^ 
is  a  \i  oi  M  ' 

'I  if  i>ii|-  its  111(1-1  li. ■,[;;•.  il\  s,  .  II  iiMin  ill'--  I  !i  \  ,1  .11.  :■.{■,■ 
till'  r!:inr'i-\  ar.|  I  ;  ^'  Paiil'-,  ini'ur  ''  iti  !\  li.  !iiu  :  -Liil- 
_.ifi'-li:!!  : — <  IiiMjis'  !i  :  t  in-  i  :\ .  i-  w  :i  li  its  in  ;. !  is ;  -  ajl 
ariuiiai.  a  CMiiii-i  ,;  \\  !'■  a"  la  ->  i-l  ip  -a-i  s,  \\  \\,,  c  i  il,  i|  i ,..  ifs 
|i!i  s.|;t  .1  niii'-  a"il  '.I  '!•■•  II  j.i.'sjM'  I  !i  r  maiiv  a  !in!.iii_-  : 
s;  a  I's.  rii'mlas.    ,i!':l    i  u'  i  •  I  s  v.  ii  ii.  .,:t    n.i  iii' a  r.  a  1. 1      i:i;i  iiii 


tv»i)     '  Ali 


iWiT    aiil    W  I't  aill-' 

III.      ''l'.      t! 


a  ii>  .  a. a,  .■^la  '  I  !•• 
!  >  i;,. '.  ai  .'1  '  rn.  •:  >  I'.aili  >'•'-.  I  ia-  'i  '  1  -  .  -1 
K-  111  iin  >.:•<■  si'l  •.  ,1.,,;  till.-  •  i'  I  I.,  :!-l'-a.|  ami  Hi  ■']  .tc 
nn  ;';■'•  m  i  .  \s  ill,  ;i  VI,  ii,,!.-  !.  a  i/mi  •  a  \  .n  i,a|s  i  i.it  i  \  iiiiiij.' 
riiiihli  ^  . 

I   I  •  'a  i    .   !  ■  •  .,  I'l'  '^  ,    i    !.;'">  ni  a    •  a  ml' it    sci'  iiim:i  i  ii  t  !n' 

lillsl'       '    1     I'l   ■     1  a\  .     IM  .    alsr    I  In-     li     lls<  s    l|i.!r    |;i..sl     ..t'    till- 
-':•■■'-.  I    ■:-■    :\' :    ■'     .    \].'\\  i   \<a  .   s,  .   ;i|,      li'..-    ,1      l>i'  !l;l'. :   ,!    |-|'. 

■    •     cai  1 1,1    '-s    III  ■   I  H  ,  ,|  i!,'  Ill    I  .ii'i    ali'- 

i,     ;.   <  I  ■■.   :   !'•   .  I !i   \   II    1.    a;; J   uiIhm    (il  n as   w    'i,  |i 

,•!,■  ■  ..   '  '  ■.  ii  iM-  an    ia|iraraiirr  ,.l'   iniimti  la  s-.  ;ii,>|   \i  i   ,'1 
^:;:     •    .  -V    Ml  !  ai;'.!-.  i;'. .    wlijrii  "'ms    it    ,i!l    lin'  aii'    nl    .i 


M  ,    /        .      :!•    i  t'r'  w  IiisiMi  ii'  •  '.■.I'.l-  I  \  .       'I  \i'.<  is 

s  , ;  ii'ii  IiH'  'liaiH'.  il  ;ia'  liisi  ,:i.  r  nl  .ilimit  mif 
li,;:  I  .  ;  w  '  \  \.  'Ml  It,.  (i-itf.riH  In  til.-  ti.ji.  aliil  is  ,ri  r\- 
,ir'   r;;.'I,      a  ■  ::•■  i.aalu^!   aaM    |.'.i_.    |.  '  t    in  ilaiai.  t'  i  . 

1 1  \  I  a  I  ,  ■.  \  a  aai  a;  •!  I  !'  la  t'  ■  I  la  ■  W  .  i  1 .  a  i  h  i  \'.  1  a  -  j '.  r  i  a 
■■\  I  1    SM  1m\.    a   \    ..■■!.  i.\  •  a    ^   '  t! '    '     '  .  ■■    in  a  -■  ai    "  !:■  i  ~' aa- ii 


2bl  A   JOL'llNAL    OP  tR.AVi:L3    IN 

within  a  single  yard  cannot  hear,  such  is  the  reverbera- 
tion, that  any  one  on  the  opposite  sj;le.  oiw  IrLUuircd  and 
forty  feet  of)',  will  on  la\  in':;  his  ear  to  the  wall,  hear  every 
word  distinctly;  .'is  it'  some  one  were  spcidving  in  a  loud 
and  audible  whisper,  and  it  is  not  easy  to  be  persuaded 
that  some  one  is  not  concealed  beidnd  the  walls,  lor  the 
purj^.ose  of  imriosition.  I  comKI  hardly  bnnidi  lliis  impres- 
sion liii  l?:'.    H and    [    (■bleed   oiirsclves   in  opposite 

point;;  of  ihe  iial'ery,  and  iu;dly  carried  on  a  con\ersd- 
ti-^n  of  soino  sninnt-.'s,  :>b|i,a;ob  in  v(>ry  low  vvliispci-s. — 
When  the  uoor  of  this  'rall.'.y  is  forcibly  shut,  it  suui'.ds;  to 
a  person  oi;  liie  <ipp'"~'t!'  si  !e,  like  thumlcr. 

Pi-r.r'/ers  are  saiil  pubbcly  in  St.  Paurs,  three  times  every 
dnv,  and  (hen  any  l)»>d\^  liiay  <,'o  in  v.ithout  jiayinL^  a  fee, 
which  is  demanded  on  all  othei-  occasions.  The  «  iiole 
chur<di  is  pnrc'lled  out  ipto  depfirlments,  for  the  sight  of 
each  on-'of  w'iirli  the  visiior  pay>  separattly. 

'f'here  is  a  librar\'  in  ibe  church,  but  it  is  not  very  ex- 
tensive. 

The  great  bell  Vvcisibs  more  than  ehnen  thousand 
pounds.  It  is  tolled  only  on  occjision  of  the  death  ot One 
of  the  royid  faadly,  or  of  tlie  dean  of  ."^t.  raubs,  or  the 
bishoji  of  Loudon. 

'I'la  re  is  preserved  in  the  chiirch  a  ])eautifid  model  of 
tlie  i)uiidini!'  uhlrli  Sir  ('hiisiophcr  Wren  inteiio'ed  lo  have 
eret  t"d,  fiu^  iic  was  not  jierinittfjd  to  I'oUow  Ids  own  jjjau 
enliicJv. 


,    N.    I,  \  Nil.     li>;l  I    \  "Ml      \MI     -<  '•  1  1,  \M>. 


\o.  \\  — LONDON. 


.M,,n:...;. -  — W  i.uil-;r:,l 


1.-..  .-.  -n   t-.-i-.  hi: 
■I"  ni  ••!    ll.i  III—  .Miiii  i 


(.— l.ria:.'.    il..,!-  ■ 


.!.■/!>     1    >.  —  I    !,:r.r  i;;:^  l::  -.pu  . 

1 ' '  ■  -     1 ;  I  ;  •  ;  a ;  i ._  1 1 1  i  ■  ■     1 . 1  I  u  111    !  I ;  >   ; . : . ; . ,  I  i .  I '_  - 1 ' 
■   ■  ■:>   lii-    lliu.,;'!.  ;u;  I  lii-     ;■'  ii'  ',i   i.i   ii:~    i 
t   '  tiii>  ;i  I  m;  I  !ii'i;i  ! ';,  .  "I,    1  ,■     !■ 


Mi.  \\. 


I 

iiii 


w  ^  !■■  Ill  .,  •.    !!::'■  I'  I 
\'.  ■  I  i '  II  1  >  I  ■ : '  » 


■  1.         1.1 


^54  V   JOURNAL    01'     lllAVELS    I•^■ 

At  jMr.  Wests',  it  was  certainly  pardonable  in  nie  lo 
indulge  a  ])atriotic  feeling  Avliile  conieniplating  a  native 
American,  who,  by  the  mere  force  of  talent  and  industry, 
aided  by  the  the  most  estimable  social  and  moral  qviali- 
lies,  had  elevated  himself  to  the  highest  eminence  in  his 
art — to  disiingiiishcd  rciyal  favour,  and  to  the  most  envia- 
ble honour  which  rival  artists  could  bestow;*  an  honour 
Vv'hich  was  enjoyed  by  Sir  Joshua  Heynolds,  whom  Julin- 
::i)u  j.iroiionnced  ''  the  nioHt  invuhicrabh;  man  of  hi.s  ag'c,''' 
and  to  w  Iioni  Mr.  West  allbrds  the  fairest  parallel  in  pri- 
vate wuiili,  professional  eminence,  and  public  favour. 

Mr.  West  received  me  with  much  kindness,  and  con- 
versed with  the  most  engaging  freedom.  He  seems  to  be 
<"narosscd  b}'  his  profession,  and  it  is  easy  to  see  that  the 
^tdfe  of  the  fine  arts  makes  a  very  conspicuous  iigure  in 
al!  Iiis  estimates  of  national  improvement. 

fie  spoke  in  the  highest  terms  of  Trumbull.  ''  His  sor- 
;i('  of  ( Gibraltar  (said  !ie^;  vvas  d(>ne  in  this  room  ;  it  is  a 
great  production — it  is  one  of  the  great  things  of  modern 
times.  Trumliull  has  fine  talents  for  painting,  and  he 
aciorns  them  by  the  most  finislied  maimers."' 

\s  1  retired  from  this  interview,  1  liuL^ered  a  while  as  I 
was  passiug  through  the  callery,  to  glance  at  iis  numerous 
paintinss,  prints,  and  statues. 

What  think  you  brother?  Do  not  the^e  [lai.Uers  and 
sculptors  take  rather  too  great  li'ocrties  . 

\  (>od,or  goddess,  or  deified  Ikmo  or  heroine,  without 
juoilal  veil,  now,  even  in  private  houses,  ol'ten  meets  iine 

*Mi-  Wit  i-  president  of  tlic  Itoyal  Acn(]<;tny  of  paiiitiiifr,  stiilp- 
t"n;,  ;^i:.  ii  s'liilion  pi'ohaljly  inferior  in  Ijuuour  only  to  llie  prc-^i- 
'4l';!(V  (if'!;;;  iloval  Sucictv 


\u;l.    Ill  ill   ill    llli     [i.ll  I'lll!  . 

'1  il-  ir  U  :i>   ,•    li;i!''  win  .'i    ;    ;•     i!'    iV'H-'i-".!!     lii-inlvcl     l!" 

iiii;'M!i  mi'-,  i.  :i>  \'  I  uU'  'ii-.,i. 'ii>  oi  -:i',  m  ;'i!\  ih:U"  uhii  h 
<  ...,1  1:  si  iii.t.ii,  ^;;\\  m;,!\  i:.i;!v'>  ■  Ipiniiv  ■!,.;  ■  '■  \.  I  :  c•.'ll- 
t'  li.j  httiuii .  u  I  i-TiN  (T  i;  I'. :!.••'!:  !•■!'  I'li.i^r  .1  i\  -  .':<•  im' 
men-,  ,111'!  u  Liii  u  <•  ii:i\  >  i  .i.;!!!".;  ;:';  ii,:i  v;  ;.  ;ti.'  ji.i'r;;.  i  ■ 
.iiji!  >ri]l|,i.>is  ;i;,\   ■  i;.,i  .ilu  ,i '.  -  h  ;  i   il>-  (A  '  u  .  ill    Irj   !•    •!. 

1  -.t'.])  ,  w  ,!  I    !!..it  ;i;i;utri  s.  vci.i  |  irdi'-.  ^n  ■;.•,  ;iiv  ,; n,  1     iii,i: 
iMi'i^l-.  li,i\  .■  ,ii'i  ;.   - -nil.!!    il,i;i;i    t^   !.!  ir.iii  n  ,:  \    ^litlilnjn' 
u  l.irli.  ,|,  !.•:!'.•-::,(!!■.  i.r.':'  --iniMl.  nin-'  '"'  '■"L'l'iiipl.iii'' 
\\  I'M'iiM  K  -.■,  \  ■■. 

\  s  I.  i  l!;i-  j'.'L:!!  1  ■•  ,i|i.i  -.Ml;!'.  '!  «.  ill  1  in  ii  ■,•  .Ml'iilli  -  .iiui 
[la'iiiliirj  iiMiiii-.  \\  (  ciiiii.ii  (.iiji-i  t  1. 1  ilii  ,;  ;i\  .iiiiii:  i'u';i 
-flvi  >  i,r  .  \.  1  \  aiil.  iiliMiMi- !  iii.-ii!  .  ii.'i'T  !i\  i:Mini-ri  ,ii!, 
:iii.|  it  i-  jiiMM.  !  th  ':  i;ii'  >.|li;c,i^  w'l'i  :;  ''.:>  \  -M'l!',  -IiomIiI 
li.  Ii'i! »  Ih  :..|.  ii,'  i:.  w  iiii'Mii  th'-  i;i'i  !  \i  ;;!i.':i  ol  ••  llli  -1 
li_'lil  I  r.r;  I  111!  1.'   .Ml    '  -   \\  ill'  ll   \Kf  \\  >  .ii  . 

1  Wii  iM  i;m(  |i,i-~  I'^i  ;i  Ilm'''!!  i.ili.  li'M.  r(.lll\.  ill''  i  \lll- 
l.!ii..i;  1  i  \  .iiiiv  .  ,  M,-  ;;,  :..  ,,i  \|.,r.,  ,,i  i;,  U;,;,  ,.  ,  ,,:,  I  .  ! 
I.I  In  I  II. ■Ill  III  (/  -l.'.l'H  -.  ;iv  w  ,  11  ,!n  ;,.i  ;.1  h,  j^.  Ii.l  -  <  \  i  I  ^trin!. 
Ill''  .i~  ;i  iiii!'  :  III  III- n  it.  \'.  '1.  I  >•  //( M  '  7  [1  llli'  -  :ii  i-  t'  >  !■>  lin 
"-;'•'  I.I  In;.,  :    "T  VI.  :i  j'  i:  Ii'  -  I    ii.i\  r    ii!t'  ;i    li.  •■;i   ",:.    in    t!ii-. 

I  ' '  M 1 1 1  r  \ ,  ' .  1 1 1  ;  r '  .11 ;;!.■:  '  -  1 1 1  ■    \  r ; !  w  i , , .  i i  i ;  i .    I  ■  1 1 1 . ; '  I 

.-''I'l'l"!- ii.i\ '  'A  iiliii'l  !.  .lii:  ill.- ;i'l  1  "ii'i  1'  rii,;  I  I '!■  \  ■\  lii' 
IllH'  :u  K  -,'.  i(.  ;i.  '!■-  M'lin-  |ii  ;l  \  i!.  \  i:it!.  ;;  -  I.  -;ii  I'l  ■'  .'  ii.  .  I- 
!;<'«^.    \\  111"  !l     jiiililir    i.j.iiiii.ii    u  •"  '  ;l..il' 

,ili  Ml  !'.|i  l!ii    1  l:.;i!i  I"  ill.-  I'll i'l,  ..:   1,1-1-  . 

I  In  -'      lillr  V    ;,|,     is,.\\    |,,   !,..     [,,1111   I     11,    ;•!!    ("1!.-.  (i..!:-    i.l 

pi' I'ln'^  .ii-'i  -I'li'"--.  ;.n'!  .)  r- .■!  <  i.l'iii  ;,,  :  i  |..i  I'n  i",:,- 
ill!-.  ..I  I'll'  ,';■..  I  it^.u  n!  :!.  l,,)v  l,r,,,;  \\<.  i'.,\\ii  i!i.  \',';i,,'. 
kil'i.l'    el  in  ■''.':■.-■  II  •  cil-  ,i!:.l  -.  '.it!.  >^i  ^.  'a  i'',  .ill  ('n   ii  ':'    i  • 


j.3o  A  J0!';;XAL  of  thavei.s  in 

ry  of  Kcman  and  (ii'eciaii  lable,  into  tlic  halls  of  the  nobilir 
t.y  aiifl  fjuntry  of  Kni'buu!. 

I  dined  at  my  lodifiniis  to-day,  and  just  as  I  was  finisliing 
niv  repast,  a  coach  ?-toi'j>e(l  at  tlse  door,  and  1  discovered 

thron',>h  t!ie  \vind;)\v  Mv.  T ,  a   nei'i'lihour  and  old  ac- 

fiTiaintance  of  nii'.ie,  at  h.onie  in  Ainerica.  One  who  I'.as 
iwwr  resided  in  a  forc.ipi  eountr}'  can  hardly  estimate  the 
value  of  such,  an  Incitient. 

I  iiad  hardly  given  him  a  seat  before  Toverwlielmed  him 
with  ([I'.ei-tivins  concerning  my  country  and  friends. 

lie  gave  m.e  the  most  pleasing  of  all  answers,  a  jiacket 
of  letters,  th.e  first  which  !  have  received  in  Knaland.  1 
soon  recognized  the  hands  oi"  several  of  my  friends  ;  but — 
what  shall  I  gay  to  you  !  yours  was  not  there;  nor  thai 
of  any  of  our  family  ;  the  rich  present  from  my  other 
friends  has  however  put  me  into  so  good  humour,  that  I  for- 
give you  for  this  time,  but  you  nuist  not  presume  too  Hir 
on  my  clemency,  for,  while  1  am  every  day  writing  to  you. 
T  feel  as  if  I  had  some  claims  to  a  return. 

JMr.  T bciPig  an  entire  slianaer  in  London,  I  spent 

the  remainder  of  the  afternoon  in  conducting  him  to  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  town,  for  a  month's  residence  has  made 
it  somewi'.at  familiar  to  nse. 

Tfli;  l,KVi:illAN   MISEIM. 

June  20. — !  have  been  with  Iwo  comjianions  over  lllack- 
friar's  fhidge,  tt)  see  t/ic  lj'rcr/(ni  J\li/s-cuin.  This  justly 
(•(dehraied  collection,  wiiich  is  one  ot  ihe  lirst  in  the  world. 
wa>or!i!inally  foi'iued  by  Mr. — af(er\vai'ds  SirAshton  Level 
of  Alkeringtou-!  la!!,  near  :\h\ncliester.  at  an  expense  of 
('.")!;,()()()  sU'i-liii'/.  C'onseqnent  pecuiiiarv  embarrassment^ 
nbhiied  ifiin    In  dispose  nfil  !)\  a  lotteiA of  thii1\-s!\  llmr 


FN'. I    \M).     HMli.wn      \NT)     -.■•!;    \Mi. 

■  ,1,  1  Nc!vi  '-.  .T'l  u  nil"'  tu '  iii\  -i-rjlit  iiii-iis.iiii|  sili;  i.  .•|•:ll',• 
•  . ;  in-  .  i\ui.  'li'  [■•  \  ii'iitimi  -  111  tin  \v  ill  I  I  I  ill  i\\  til'-  I .:  I  ■  ,1.- 
'•■':,•  ti;iii'!-nr  ^Il.  I'.n  ix'.!i->'ii.  llii  ■■•.*:'.  i  i-l  (.,,'\  [wx. 
>.  i  I.  Ill  tlii>  w  .i\  .  t'lr  ;i  (  ,  .'ijili-  III  ::  iiiip  .1^,  !h  1  '  .'!i  !:•■  , .;  1 1- 
jii  i'  ;.'i   <  ii  ui>  T'  '■  ■''    iiiM^i  iiMi. 

t  >ii  '  I  ii.ini  i~  r'\  "ii'.!  t.i  liii-  111'  111  "I  \  !■'  (  '.M.i.ii't  <  ..i', . 
W  !/rii  i-.  in  ;i  i  ,'<■.-'  ij!  >  jM  '  -'  i  \  t  il  li\  ,i  '  "I 'i''  In  ii  i  .T  . ; :  : :  i  - . 
lii  !--•■-.  'iri  i:-  !  ■.  -.  o  .  .  \\  i,i.  ii  }}'•  iiihl'  ill  i..>  lli'r.!  ':.i| 
i  !  - 1   \ .  ■  \ 

'I  (i.i .  •        '  ■'.  ■!!.  ■  1 ,'  III  I ..  liir-'v  111  tiiif  |ii  I  -'I  \  ,!i '  .'i. 

I    -    !■  liln'i.-.illv  .  ;i;  I  ,iir.i-.!.    i;:  .i 

it'.  '   .      V,        ,      :         ■   ■         ,         :   '      .    ■       '1       '     ■!.   !■     I    \    .  Ill       llll^.       til''         IM-,     N     ,||    , 

j  i'    '  .      ,      .  ' ,  I   'ii'  '■        -    :!  !:::.i|!;.i:i  M    '  '\     .i     I  in      ^!^  \    li'l,!. 

1  i'  -  .  ..iiiii  ",   .1    iiiMin;  ,  I'-  III    iiii- 

iM  i-i  >,;.,,  .;.i  I.    !■  '         .■   !•  I  ■    i  II  iin'. 

'I   II.   1'     i-  .111  ::    i.M  i.  ,f    '.  '  .A    •    r.i\i'l\     .Ii'\  nt''.;  Ill  i  111'  'II'm;- 

K<  V  -.  N  ■'  -  .;i-'i-  i  '.-. :  i  •  ii  I  iiK'  (  1 1'  I'.'i  ii.i-  'ii  li.i'.  ill 
II,  1  ..i  •  '  rill  -'■  ;i!i:!!i  :!~  s  ,  \  I  \  I'll  iir;  ,i'i>  in  iip  ir  ;i.  ;■•  .ii- 
.!','■■    '"I  !    i;  'Mil'  i  ■  :    -'    •      '■  .       s-    .1   111  I'l    I  'I  il  w  •■    !;■■   '■   .:'■- 

■     .  .'    il    ilAl'     .1 

i\  ■   11  ;    I  J''  .1 1 1 1^1   il.  -  ■    .  1 1 .      '•  ' ' 


i\    '  '  '.I.' 


253  A    JOURNAL    OF    TRAVELS    IX 

The  sliaver  has  one  of  liis  own  sprcies  seated  in  a  chaii  : 
his  b'  ;u(l  !at!iMed,  and  the  razor  jnst  beginnine:  to  slide 
over  liis  face. 

The  dsMitist  liol'ls  his  patient  by  the  chops,  while  he 
strains  the  turnkey,  and  produces  all  the  grimace  and  con- 
tortion ofieat-res,  which  tooth-drawing  can  extort. 

Crispin  is  jiushintr  the  awl  and  pointing  the  brislle  to 
the  si)oe,  and  thus  we  have  our  rivals  in  form  actu.dly 
pin  1,1  (Meet,  and  emnlating  human  employments.  No- 
thing is  wanting  but  Lord  Monboddoe's  aid  to  free  them 
from  an  appendage  which  this  philosopher  says  our  spe- 
ci-  s  have  been  so  fortunate  as  to  drop,  and  they  might 
peijap/S  asp-iireven  to  tlie  wool  sack. 

1  he  :jiinp;al  room  contains  a  collection  of  superb  spe- 
cimens; they  are  large  and  wonderfully  brilliant.  Amon? 
them  are  specimens  which  once  crowned  the  summits  of 
siil)-ni:uine  moimtains,  or  shot  in  coral  groves  beneath  the 
wa\cs  ol  tlie  ocean  ;  others  selected  from  the  treasures 
which  thi,'  earth  contains  in  her  dark  veins  and  caverns  ; 
crystal-,  which  in  the  exactness  and  finish  of  their  lines 
aiiil  les,  rival  the  skill  of  the  mathejnatician,  and  col- 
ours which  in  their  inten^encss  and  beauty  surpass  the  ef- 
foits  of  art. 

-Vs  usual  the  crystals  of  quartz  excelled  every  thing- 
else  in  size  ;  there  was  a  speciuHMi  I'rom  the  Swiss  Alps  or 
from  Madagascar  I  am  not  certain  which)  as  large  as  tlie 
lliigh  of  a  man  of  common  size.  Tiie  native  crystals  of 
luaiiv  other  substances  were  very  perfect  and  beautihil. 
and  the  specimens  of  branched  coral  were  sinij-nlarly  fuie. 
'i'he  ^p('cimens  of  branched  coral  are  so  fine,  and  the 
i>a!iv  (^  crystals  of  otiier  substances  are  so  })erfect  and  beau- 
tiful, as  almost  to  it^^'ifv  the  (lovtica!  descriiitions  of  «a'>- 


h\i.|    \M).     in'I.IAM)      \M1    ^iMlI    \M),  ._    ,. 

.'    1  I     I  111    .111     _'|.  'Ill"    ^    illld     lOial     '_'ll'\  '     ~.  I     I  111  'III  1^1       III   ,  -I'll     till 

jil.M-wii'  •![  .iiH'tlK'i'  \  ivii  til  l!ii'  1,1  Mil  III  \liNi  iiiii.  nil' 
till  T'  I'll,-  |.'  iM'  it  Un   the  jiiiM-:-!. ' 

\>      Hr.    II .Mill     I    \vr|f    l<li;i  lillr_'     illtii   llic     i'\\\.  u[i 

>i.ll  \\,i\  1"  till'  lllUI,l-l  liMl>f,  li'|HMlr.|  s!iu\Si'|^  ili.iv.  II- 
mi'iil  III!-  jii.l  tii-|H->  nl  llli'Kii\,il  I  .Xrll.Ul'Ji".  .Ill'l  illiii.l 
|i,t>ll A  riiols\  -Ih'p.  \\  I'  jiailiiiil^  III'  ^iiliu-  nl  lllN  ^'uaK 
daiiitii'^.    aiil  riiiiial  llirai.   likr    ll.illriA.    lii  lici.  iii>  hi;i  mi- 

-Illi^t.Ullial.  I  lliM-   >llii|)^     air    \rl\     IHIIliri  i  Hi--   ill    l.nlir.iUl 

an. I  \ii\    bin  .ai\i'.        \   |i.i^Ii\   ii'ii!\    li.i-    n  niilK    In  roim, 

I  (   111 1  I.I   \  iihiiil.ri  s.  ami  uill  iliiiNlir^N  jiasr    tin-  Ihmi- 

ii!i|-  III'  [iM'ji.ii  ia,'  l>iiiia|iai  ti"^  ili^i  it,  \v  liciu  \  ri  lir  riiiii|Ui  r-' 

|-'.!l'.'l.tlli|. 

\\  I'    \M-lll    till  nil 'J  il    SI  \  ri.ll  a|MHillillIv  111   llir    |lliri,|-lllills(^j 

vsiii'ii'  art'  Ii.iiis.ii'liit  tiir  must  iiiniiiriitiias  ci  iiirrriiN  ui  th.' 
(  iiiniin'ri'i.il  wmlii.  aaii  svlnii-  i^  i\liiliiti  il  tiir  nIii'J'iI.u 
^pi'rt.uli-  111  a  tiMiiiii'j  CHiiiiiaiiN  s\\:i\ii|.j  tliiMi|.tri'  i>i'  .1 
'  nat  iiiiiiin-.  ami  ilii  iiliiii!  mi  tin'  l.iii   nl    Xvi.iiir  jiriiti  r>. 


\'i'     1-1-        -nil  .■   Ill;    I'  •   i;  n  I'l  til-  (  il;\,l     i,i\.'-,.n    i;i 

>.  \\  -^  .  ■'  L  .1  .|ii  ir',-  I  '.  ■  ■  I  I.  .  'i]i  II'  .1,  il  I  .|-  -:ir|..i--iii.-  in  ~i/r  lii^ 
,,'i,-  in.  :,'l.iiiril  HI  '!;.-'iM  'I  :i.il  i  1 1- -.  til .  . !  '  _v  ■  I'.-  -•  it.-  ,  .j  <],,■ 
\  .illiii-  In  11.  ■  Niii.ii.il  (  ..i.\inii.iii.  li'ii  11:  1  il'  Tn  i:i  h  i;i'\  i.ln 
ti.iii.  i-  jini'.  I  .:_N  III.'  I.I]  /f-'  l,i:"'.\  n  1 1  ,\  .  ;.  I,.  .1  .•'..tiI  ri-lil  I:;iii 
(lir.i    |,..'i!,.!-     111'!    '.v    .      .I'i.iX  r    III  ■   r    1.  I   I    ill    .il  ,1,11  ii   r 

\-  :    .  Ml.     I...n.|.iii  (    I '.ill  I  i>.  III.'  |.ii'.lir  ..ii.  -    v.  >  r.      in     l'-"'i  ,i'l. 
rim-  l..i'h  in  .'-'.  Ill  ^iml  -wiin.    1.1  r!i  ,1  ..I  f..l    (.;•.!,,,.■>:.:,  n.i  ■  i,  .  .v 
•..•,11   -.M.,,.  y,.,l  -  i|.-ii..i'.  .1  ,n   lii.^    M'l"  iini   i.|   \  .,].'   (    -.'i.'    .■ 

-Ill,  .'  II,.    ;nli'ii...ii  ..I  ll.r     I. -.a   (■  I'.iii,  ■  ..I  :;..    I.r,     \||-    (,;■,".  lil,. 
>  .  'il  .'  Ml  ill r  l;   :•,   ;,   Mil   rii|.|.  t!..    .,',.,',.'  r.-'ii  !i  iv  I  ,  .'   ••-•.,'..•,-,, 
■    ■      ■,    \    •    . 


2 Go  A    JOURNAL    OF    TRAVELS    IX 


Xo.  XXL— I.OXDON. 

,\nolher  visit  to  "Westminster  Abbey — Toiiib  of  Henry  V.  fcc— 
'l^'estminster  Hall — Lord  Ellenboroiigh — l^ord  Eldon — Sir 
James  Mansfield — Costume  and  dignity  oi"  the  Courts — A  bal- 
loon— To  be  (ranst'ormed  into  a  teniple — Vneedntc— Tower 
Hill — Memorable  for  state  executions — Ku.r  I'air— Jews — 
Cioihes"  shop- — Antlo-A^iiatics  ai:d  Af.-icans — Tiieir  condition 
aiid  treatment  in  E!;;;laiul— Slavery  unkr.own  iji  England. 

V\i:STMI.NSTER  ABUEV. 

Ji/ne  21. — 1  spent  a  little  while  this  iiioniiniT;  with 
a  iViend,  in  Westminster  Abbey,  It  w;is  the  hour  oj 
niorniiijr  service,  and  the  reliijious  offirers  of  the  church 
were  present  in  iheir  appro[)ri;ite  rob^es  ;  a  nuniL)er  of  !)oys, 
dressed  in  white  were  clh'uiliny:  to  the  orL'an.  which  by  its 
deep  niaieslic  tones,  achled  to  those,  impressions  of  awe, 
whicii  it  is  impossibde  that  a  strangcn"  sliould  not  feel,  on 
cnterino- this  venerable  \i)l5(?y.* 

It  is  in  vain  th.af  the  moralist  tells  me  royal  ashes  are  no 
he: tor  than  mine  will  be,  and  that  ])oets,  nobles,  king's, 
and  heroes  are  bat  common  ckist.    Still,  1  feel  an  elevat(,'d 

!  say  tlie  ,"/./c.s  of  llie  or'j:n')  added  to  the  impres'^ions  ofawe  ; 
iiol  so  the  bo;  s,  and  tlie  ecclesiastics,  \\  'no  were  performinsr,  uliai 
\  behc've;  it  i-  not  iiiicharitable  to  call  a  solemn  I'arce  ;  it  is  ratlier 
painful  tii-iji  otherwise;  to  see  tliis  kind  of  pre.-ci'ibed  wor-liip  per- 
foiined  in  W  e-l  niiioie  r  Alibe-y,  St.  Paul's,  and  olher  similar  [i!a- 
res  1)11  srciilc,-  i!iii/;;.  It  i^;  ^one  r.viM-  (like  any  other  !a,-k  or  les-on 
ot  ueiiuc'iit  rci  iii'iem-Cy  by  a.  doz'jn.  or  twenty  people  uilhin  tln- 
f'lanrel-  wiiieii  eirciipie-  bu!  a  -pe'-k  in  these  vast  houses,  whde 
(■rM-.\(is  c.l  loit^!:;''rs  arc  i.lrollin:^-  about,  in  all  olliCi  pai't'^  of  the 
it'iiidin  .  h.okiuj;  at  (he  s'atues,  and  reckless  of  the  wor-hi]i  as 
*':'jrr  v.  ':■)  oeiv)rui  iC 


,.      ,     ■         ,  .    w  ';.  ,:    I    s  i\   !,.    iii\  -I  l:  —  !iiii    -!i-  :!  .  I    r,       1  .Jr 
•   II .,  -  i:;i      I  |tui\  N  "I   1,11^  i,inii  :    !i'  If  .;''i  llii>    ii,,i:  In' 

•  -    t  Jii'  I  II    i  .ll.-.ilii  ill.    .:ii(i     ll^  !!■.     In  .•    ;  n\  ,u    \  :■  !:iii.     ^1  ;i  v 

I  I  :--!ii;  \     1     ll!^    M|i.    \\  llll    [H)V\  1   1  Ilil    >!-v,H|.|!  mil,    I  !!• 
.      Ill        i:ill-ll  |iM|v      ili.l.i.         (  >||     Ml!,'     -Iiif.    liic    ll|(illi.lllM:t     ' 
\>  \\t"{\      l;iU     '.    >;i     \'-i:ll     IMlpK---,'   U--    111'    Itli'   IH'li!'-     cl.i::!:' 

\v  1.:'::  -'  u  ■''  <  .  iiid  i  !i  ■  ; . .,  i  ■ ;  i  h.  •  ^   !; :.     ;,'  ^.  li  r, .    .  m  I'u    r  ' 

1  '  ^     \   .    I.  .  .:!,>    |H.A  I  !  !,.,:,     I    ,    ,,.,■     -    ['  i  ,u:i  .  ;..'ll    llir   1  .,ii 

■  .    'I     "I     I   i.ii.'  ■■.       *  >■,  ,|-     li...    ;      ,  'i    ,;. ,     .■,-,,,  ^. ;     !     []:, 
-'III  rl  w  111.  ii  h.-  Ii..!c.  ,111, i  ;l;i' 
iiM'iii'M  ,i!m-  ii.iii  I,'  .,|    '•  .in, , 111  1. 

'i  iM-  i-  iiii'  t  i  li,  :-•    Ml  1,1  ,,■:!.  Ill  il!:..,:i.         '  ,i(i         .    .  - 

'.■'■\-.  \v:i;r!i   I,     .',   ,  !,■   ;.i, ' 

■'  ii'  :i  1  li;-r  I,,  ,u.:  II.-  I  .,1  J.-ii  1.^,,..  '^  .  ,  :  1  ,  ,  .,  I,  : 
.i  '-  il  n,  .  :•  ,;.•■  ;■.  I.  I,.  !i-  \:.^^  IM,  -  I,  ,  i.i.,.,:-  ■  .  .  '^  ■  .■ 
'    ■      '    ■        ^  .1.        <  'ii     l!ir     li:ll,i|     ,    !       II,       \.,. 

■  liiii.  -  I  M  ■.,i,i'  ■  1,;,  ir  i.iil  ,  ;.i  ,  I.  ,,ii.l  -,|,  I!  ,11,  ,  i;  ,  i  ,  \  ■, 
ill'iu  i-,i   t.i   lii-i   ,ili   t  ii!;iii-|.i~  i:    ;i;ii,.     I    ;:  ;,  i  i|i-.  '        'I';,    i  ,     i' 


2G2  A    JOPKNAL    OP    TKAVELS    IN 

no  object  that  I  iiave  seen  in  England  of  which  I  am  ;o 
desirous  to  give  you  a  correct  impression  as  of  Westmin- 
ster Abbey,  nor  is  there  any  task  of  the  kind  to  wliich  1 
find  myself  so  inadequate. 

WESTMINSTER   HALL. 

From  tlie  Al)bey  M"e  went  across  the  street  into  West- 
jninster  Hali  to  see  some  of  the  I'wwg  oraches  of  the  law. 
VV'liile  we  were  at  this  great  fountain  head  not  only  of 
English  but  of  American  jurisprudence,!  often  thought  of 
you,  my  dear  brother,  and  wished  that  you  could  have 
been  with  me  to  gratify  that  strong  professional  curiosit}', 
which  every  lawyer  must  feel  to  see  Westminster  Hall, 
an'J  its  courts  of  justice.  Although  the  books  of  reports, 
wliich  have  now  i)ecomc  so  numerous  and  copious,  afford 
you  a  ijetier  idea  of  wtiat  is  done  here  than  can  be  ob- 
tained frou!  a  U'w  sl/ort  \isits,  it  is  still  some  gratification 
to  behold  the  jjlace  and  the  men.     In  the  Court  of  King's 

anf]  iliily,  ]u>vv('\(>r  iiitei-psfiiig  the  recolleittions  wliicli  llicy 
awakrii,  uiid  !)0'v<  ever  sublime  th(!  thoughts  and  feelings  which 
they  may  call  f'oiih,  give  almosl  a  niehmcholy  sense  of  earthly  in- 
stahilily,  and  foi'ce  upon  us  a  iininiliating  contrast  between  elder 
ijnd  latlei-tiincs.  But  England  in  (he  full  glory  ofiierarts  and 
arms,  in  tiie  |)ie!iiUide  of  her  strength  and  the  exu!)erance  of  her 
wealth,  in  licr  free  goveriMiienl  and  [)ure  failh,  just  laws  and  un- 
corrapted  manner^,  pnljlic  prosperity  and  private  hiipplness  , — 
England  in  each  and  all  of  these;  resi)ect';,  |)re>entsati  obje(-t  •■■•{. 
to  be  paralleled  in  this  or  other  countries — iui  object  which  tills 
Avilh  a'^tonishmenl  (iie  luiderstanding  mind,  and  Avliich  tiie  ])liilo- 
soplier  and  the  Christian  may  contemplate  not  only  \\  ith  compla- 
cency, but  w  ith  exultation,  with  the  deepe>t  gratitude  to  the  Al- 
rnigiity  givci' of  ail  good,  and  tiie  most  iiimating  hopes  fur  the 
iurtiicr  pro^pe.'ils  ;',r!d  j)rogress  of  maii'viiiJ. 


I    \  .  -  r.  \  M> .     1 1 1  '  1  !    \  N  1 1      \  M  >     -J-   1 1  I  1    \  M I . 


.')•< 


iMiirh  I  .lilt  i  r.llfiilitiiituL'li  u  .i>  'jl\  111^  III  i:i:irr:  ill  a  CI  II N)-; 
hi--  iiMiini'i'  i>  |irrN[)i("iuiu^.  siuijili'.    dW'l   iiii'i^ii  ut  lu.ui,-. — 

Till'  liliiji'N  in  tlllN  COIIII  Wiiir  lllii>r  \\:\\  ll'iwiil;;  ^^i•_^, 
uliirii  \\r  wi-  111  t!n'ir  poiti  liiv:  the  rli.  .t  i^  latli-r  luli- 
I  <■'>•:•>  tliiiii    xilcini).    rsj,,'!  i.iiK    wlii'ii  tin-  I.ht  ;>  >Ui.'»l!  ,ti'  ! 

:Mii;iiiti\  I'. 

\rr  .V.  ill,,  li:,!!.  i^  I'll'  ('rii:it  ..l'  (  '..iiif,  |-\  .  \\".'-;t\\ 
;lii'  r!i,nn'  I'll  I.ni'l  l.Mi  .1.  !!•'  ;^  ■!  111. II.  !  a  m!)!''  aji- 
ji.   MMMiT.  ,iii,l.  i;'  h!-    i-.iiiii!ii;:i:iri'  \>i-    a  tin.    ri.;i-\    ni    iii< 

111    .     '.    Will    ill's,  r\i<     hi-    "li  \atr  i      vl,(|;    .;i.         |;i     j.'s     |i.|s,,il 

I.;  :■■.•'  i;t>,  ii.'!vr,.ii  ■nil'ki'  .In  i_'r  r.!i-\\o|iii  n|  ('.,u- 
ii    ■  'ii-i.r. 

^ir  .l,i:;l.  s  M,iii-,1. vi  is  ;!l--  <-\r.'  i  .Ul.lir  ..!  llir  (-(MIM  ,,] 
i-M.iiiiii.:i  j,',;  as.       'I'lh'  I'nsiuiii'     I'i    tills    cniiit    Is    a    jiaipii' 

sil'^  im'ii-  wilii  ,1  wli  !•■  WiL.  cliisc  riirliij,  iinl  !;'>\\ili'_' 
i<\  '•■!    \:;r  siid.iidr;  s. 

1  iiiv,  \|sjl,,|  W  .  s;.|,i|!sl,  r  li.iil  ;i  li'l'lliiM  n!  tlllH'-. 
.\.,;i   ll|i'     liiiiii'    111     II'  .a-|ii-j     las!^ini'.    (nM's,     tiailuvv.    ci 

.!'■  iiri'i  r  '1  lii'  ir  .i'-, 'n/aisii.-,!  ,i.;\ .  i.-.,ii  s.  l.;it  1  j;  im 
,-a  !v  ■  II  s,  1  i,,iii|;ii;.-  .1  ,  r,,  !i,.  |)ii-.i  at  w  ii.  a  lln'V  \\  <  n 
-  1  ''>ai  .  .;  a'  11  r.i'  I  la  : :  '  i  aa\  rhiiaii  I'l  iii  iii  iii  t'r  si 
I  .  .arts.  I  ins  .i;  .  •  ::  ; '  i  r  iw  'N  I  u  '  t  i  I  t  ,v  \  i  i  s.  \i  li,i.  : , .. 
'.  I  la  i\  la  ''.\  ,  w  '  ir  lii  >  »\  a  '  _•  a  In'  i.  'j.  i\s  i|s.  .ua;  vv  i  _  -  riil  In  i  a  a.  I 
I .'  w  ,iiai  .  I.  \  «  lii.-s..  ■■.■aili  ij|.  u  air  '.'i  iiimmI!  '.  I'.a  I  i  ..  "  ; 
:'.  till''.  !;,,■.■•  r.  in. a  .a's  an  ,i:  .j  h-.i  i  laa.-  M.airli  i  '  .  '  's 
■  a  ".  ,a  I  1  n.ii  .1-;  ^^  nil  t'i>  ^i .!-  am  ill  >  -■■.  In'  i-  ■  '  '  -  '  ' 
\\  .  ■  •  aaa-!.  I'     ait      ai  s,  i-:i: ,]  ,    n  ,iai ;  m  a     la    r.  Ml    .  '  '        ■   1 

III  1  ■  s ;  I ;  1 1  i  I  .  s  s  1 1 1  :  i  1 1  ■  .  1 1 1  1 1 1  a  r  a  •  - .  \\  1 1 1 1  i  i  .  a  ■  1 1  1 1  ...  .  a  ■  a  : ,  ■  - 
t'  .  :  '.  :  '  a  I'a  l':  ■  r.  .iiits  .nai  lla  ii  m!.'  it-.  \\  liana  1  !■  ,i\  - 
ia  aal   sjMTi,il..|s. 

\  a:-  la  _  Ml-     ;  r.i  '.  ■  r-  tii'  a    p.ii,  I    .;  ..it  mu.    i.;    ilia   n  la-. 

/;.  .-'.       |-    ■       as     a.    li     ..its    .a    ;!i,    n'  |.|.    m,..-    a  i|   a,  •  - 


2()4  A    JOIRWI.    OP    TRAVKLS    IX 

elude  punniiifT,  for.  IJ/.s  qesitleniHU  has  ;i  brot'ricr,  also  u 
lawyer,  whom,  from  his  h*  ing  both  younger  and  inferior, 
they  call  second  Bc-^t. 

There  is  a  yreal  deal  of  diirnity  in  these  courts  of  jus- 
lice.  No  indecorum  of  niaiiners  is  permitted,  and  the  law- 
yers are,  as  ihey  ou-dii  every  where  to  be,  so  much  under 
t!ie  infhience  and  coi^trol  of  the  courts,  that  they  dare  not 
irille,  but  always  arlliere  strictly  to  the  point. 

Westminster  Hall  is  said  to  be  the  largest  room  in  Eu- 
roijc,  V.  hose  roof  is  un.supj)orled  by  pillars  ;  it  is  a  vast 
art  a  of  two  huudird  and  seventy  five  feet  in  leuath  by 
soxenly  iiveiii  freachh,  wiihout  divisions,  benches,  or  any 
obUriiCtioii  wlialever.  Over  heafi,  the  frame  work  wh.icli 
supports  the  roof  in  the  form  of  wliat  is  called  geometry 
work,  is  in  fidl  view.  It  is  of  Knglish  oak,  and  seems  |ier- 
fi  ctly  untb.'cayed.  Th.e  hall  was  orijfinally  built  i)y  \\"il- 
him  Ituf'is,  vv'as  re-en;cted  by  Richard  il,  and  is  said  ^o 
\v,\\Q  been  us'vl  liy  llia.t  irionarch,  lor  a  diniuir  room  for  the 
iip.inense  retinue,  \\hi<di  d;ew  their  subsistence  iVom  his 
roval  IcM'.iViy,  or  r;it;i:,.'r  pr(!fusion.  \ou\vilI  romendjtM', 
lln:ia'  mentions  t hilt  tea  tiini;  vand  pcrso'is  Inia^'  ab'iiit  his 
eonrt  aiid  v.^tc  Wd  iVon;  liis  table.  V,'est!uin--ter  Hall  is 
now  mere!\  a  [■■r(;:i)i'iiar!c  for  the  hnvyrs  and  th.eir  suit- 
ors, and  i/e;;;': ;'!' V  for  a'l  pers.in<  u:io  ;ire  alt'  ndi.i:^  iijM'ri 
tlie  c'.'urls  of  law,  or  liiion  j);oiia!ue'.it.  Ir  is  usual  to  see 
'jr''ut  )e!ii!i)-::rs  u:d'.;;i  .  ni)  Jiiid  down  throuLih  tliis  hall, 
and  irid:;''.'':';?:  iVv'-is'  in  cinvcrsaiion.  The  juciicial  and 
(ii'bl;  !;>;"  UM(iie;-j  iiiii-.l  th^'h'  sesNious  ronticiasusly  (o  ih'' 
h.;i'  iMit  ■;!  t  in  it  ;  :-ti!!  voa  p;H>  tlu-ouLrh  il  to  ai-iiv  at 
tneai.  '  \.;-  t"<:iinpK'.  enlei  b; :'  th;'  hall,  you  turn  to  ihr- 
f-^vl't  a,'-'  :!-!'!>i'd  ;i  ';  ,v  sf;'i:-,  ih^'  court  i  >j' rxchcuuer.  aiai 
-■ti'iut  !;:d!  ^Aav  \io  en  t'le  ri'jht.  \(iu  '•oni',  t"  the  Ciu^aa'?' 


I.  \    .       \M).     :!■■!   I    \^  I)      \M)     "-I   !•  I  I  AM) 


(■,l^  :   i<<    I'luii   til.'    (■!i..,i(  .1  \'.  _\  ,111      u    i,'iiti-    iii!.ii..::i   t!:i 


iiii-  I  i!!i  .1111  ■•  ■ii"  I  .  .::i.l  iMi  :.u    I ,  'III  ii.Mi.i  ;    Idi    km;, 

ii;-    till'    ^.lllM        vl[,|,;l|,,||    (.;,     il.,'    i,il.      ,tl..i      111    I-,.    Il-t 


'I't'  '^'  ' 
^  :  I'  IK  :i 
;.;i.-ifr 


to  lllr  ill  MK  IM  \  .  I  :)i  |.  irr;i,_  ,.11  !S  111  t  lit  i  \  !  u  1  \M  i  : :  II,'  i;;. 
I'ii   (I '1 11 1     til    til!'    ||,i:iM'  1. 1    l.M  i|  -.    '>  nil    ^n  ,,11  tllln'r^ll   lM>   i  II 

tr\,  ;iM'i  !hl  ,1   ll.jiil  i-\   -I.iii~.  ,;iM  Mill  l<i  !;!■    irjnl:   l.ri   ih- 

ll'.il^r  ol  1  ■.IlilliMi-.  (Mill  t,'  tin  i,:i,  ,.ii,l  ill  1,1,  1  \i,ll  Iii.ik, 
"  \  I  1  ,ll  1  .;.  .  -  !  ■•  |.  il  !■  \  ■  •,!  (  >  iili-  !■  ,  >!  .  ^!'  j'li'U  >  (  11  Ij.rL 
'\  III,  fl  -t  Mi.;,  ;il  1  ;_  !i[  -I'l  J.'-,  \\  ili,  \\  ■  M.:!!;:  -If  I  I  l.iil.  ;.,:  , 
■>  .  !    -ij.  ir  111  .1    II  ■'Ml    Ii    ii\     l.'lili;,-.  M.;il    r,:-'-s.  j,.|x>;,_,.s.  ,N  , 

^liil,  ,i;;'  1  1  111' r:ii^  tin'  ■ii.M  u!  \\  i  -I  inuisliT  II, ill.  \imi  li,.', 
.1.  ■  .  -.-  !■>  .ill   ll;i-M'  ii.Hiii'-  u  ilii.in!   L'niii'j   i Mill  till'  \\.  ,ill;,  !. 

■>••.  11  In  KM  till-  i.,i»>,,;i  .  \\  iial  iv  |  .n  rjn  1 1  \  i  mIj,  1  \\  r^;- 
111111^1:1  II, (!l.  ii,>  ll|i-  :'j'l"  il  iMi'i'  f.i'.iii  .Mr;,  i;;  t  i  n  i  -  -'.i  , .;  ; 
>,iiiiliic  (  1,  ,||'ii'  liiiJiMi;  J.  ■  '1  1  ■'I'lii.ii-  !i  "Ml  ,  \  :.:.  .'■  I'-ii -illi  !■  ,- 
,'ra!ll  :  liiit  i' ''  ,"•■  :;:  '■  ^11  iiii'is  lii'il  .; "  -  r  ■Miii'i'ii  i  ','..;  ii  i' . 
t.i;iii'ii!illll''!.l'i'liii'  \,i,hi'.^ji;i!l!,  '',.••■-:  \[,i  \  ;  i  ■  I,, 
-.ill  (1   ililirii  lit  ^1\'-  -  u:  :il'  liiti'itM;  1    :  .   <:>  Kill  :,..  ^• 

v,i  lii-jii.  ,.i.;l:':'!  :;.'  i'l  -i/1'.  ;i,i,i  --  :  ■  ,  ;  '\  j.l.i.  ,  .'.  ,11 
riillirc  I  Mllii!''  1  i.il:'  I'-l)'  M  !.  li.  '!  v^  !  •  \>  ';  i^;.'  i  ,  :i.  <  - 
il,i.l>,'-   .iM'i    ■•;  M'T    lij  iji:   M.,        '   -,    '.  /   .   t  M"«r    il.,:;,  '- 

111.:-.    .!>       it     '\  il'i'.    1,1^1'         >  1      ,-    .     ■         .,,!-:-  '•     ■>■    l:'     !•       il    !-      ,,.: 

.,;)jii',ii,iii,  ,■  1  I  I,;  ,,  :  1  --.  r.ii.  '■  •',,  .;,.(  i  .'  ■:■!:. -r-  ;:■  \  •  . 
I  l|i'    nli;'  rl.   \.  ii.i  il   liii-    .1   -  '       '■ 

!  ll''  :'  '  il'  l.'l  ,11.  i  I  V  ;  -I,;!  ,  \  r  I  "■  :  '  -  i  i'  .  ,,  ■  I  -  •  i  ••.■!  .  ■ 
\'.  M.i  'l  iMi'  \\  '  ;  1,1  i-\  1  r  ■«,i'.l  .  -iMv!  i  I;  •  .  •  "f  1  1  1,1-.  ii:,\  ■  11,  .  I 
.-   ■•    '    l.:.li'.;     !'   M    U  i;,.   ,1    1.;     ,.1   rl',    i '  -  1 . ,  1  . ,    -  M  !  M  ■ '  i  "  .   ii  ,    ,   :'    Ui     ill' 

;;i  11'  i'    ir  ,1,1,1  !  I  -,,'.,  ■■        '  •       !,,i;li'i;.       I'l-l' 

t  I'lll    li  ,l    .i:i;'.  r  :,li  ',  'V    i:    1  ■    '.r'   -I  I  \  ;: 

■  ■ s ; ; il ! 1 ,  -  i 1 1 1 1 1  1 1 1 . 
\ '  I  .   1. 


266  A    JOURNAL    OF    TRAVELS    IN 

Indeed  it  would  be  a  painful  thing  to  any  stranger,  visit- 
ing England,  not  to  see  Westminster  Ilall,  The  great 
State  trials  have  been  held  in  it  for  centuries.  The  kings 
anciently  dispensed  justice  here  in  person  :  Charles  I.  was 
tried  and  condemned  to  death  in  this  room  ;  here  was  held 
ti)e  famous  trial  of  Warren  Hastings  ;  ami  now  whenever 
A  peer  is  tried,  it  is  fitteil  up  with  carpets,  scats,  &c.-— 
Within  the  walls  of  fvw  buildings,  it  is  presumed,  have  so 
zuany  memoral)le  things  been  said  and  done. 

A    BALLOON. 

i)n  my  way  home  from  Westminster  Hall,  I  stopped 
at  the  Pantheon,  to  view  a  magnificent  balloon  which  is 
;-iow  getting  ready  tliere.  Lunardi,  a  well  known  a-ro- 
naut,  is  to  ascend  in  it,  with  a  party  of  a  tlozen  ladies  and 
gentlemen.  They  pay  a  high  premium  for  the  privilege 
<>f  breatliinii"  among  the  clouds,  and  tlie  chance  of  being 
killed  [)hilosophically.  This  ijalloon  is  ornamented,  in  a 
very  expensi\e  style,  an  1  vvi'l  probably  cost  enough  to 
buy  the  iinest  equipage  in  Kuro})e  ;  minds  of  alessambi- 
I'ious  cast  would  perhaps  pr(  fer  the  wheels  and  horses  on 
the  tirountl.to  variiished  siik,  as-d  inilammable  gas,  among 
the  wlihluinds  o\  lieavesi.  This  party  are  even  more 
umbitlous  than  a'ronants  usually  are  :  for  t!i<'y  are  uul 
conieiUed  with  building  castles  in  liie  air.  tb.ey  must  ev('n 
raise  u  (irecian  teuiple  there,  as  if  by  nia<2ic  ;  for,  it  is  a 
jjart  of  the  scheme  of  tills  l)allnon  t'lat,  after  it  has  ascc  ..(- 
ed  to  a  certain  height,  a  fesioon  of  curti'ins  which  has 
been  susj)(Midetl  all  around  it,  \a  ill  suddenly  unfold  and 
lianij  in  such  a  maimer  as  to  hide  tlie  lialloon  com))letely, 
and  to  re|)r(;seiU  a  (Jrin-ii^n  tcmpb'  vvi'h  ■i';l  its  porticoes 
:nid  rohmii!--. 


I     v-    !.  SNil.      !!■  'M     \Ni<       '.  Nil     -        •  •   :     '.  M'.  .    , 

I  II''  'Mr  Ml   lliiv  ii  illiioii   >    ;i   rill  ■,!;!;    u'.  ;|  '.'i    <[.  lull,   -p 
■.v.iii.i    /.>/.."ii  I  1>  _m:  t  <'i!i'.i -.  -   I'iiri  (i  ii;  ;ii' .1   |'i  !<■■  ^    l>\     ,i. 
II  "1  I  i:t  _■ ,  \.  !iii"!i    1 1  1^-'  -    I  ii; '  !•:  :.i  !li>  ir    I  >  -i     -.  .'  i..l  i-   i;  -•  : . 
>iijji>i'i  ;•    1    ill,   'mm     ii  '-t>.       liitii'-    lu'i-':!''    In    .t     i^'i-.    m 
win  I  ii   ;-  ,1  ■l"Mr  !ii  il     i|i-    i^  iulu  <  I'livi  .i      :,I    j'l'  ■  •  -    '■''     i' 
;i  '  -!':i.'':i;-.     j.ii.li.-.  ■,  .il|.';ii      !:;s|i    Kill  h!-.     ,;ll   i     o'ln,-    llli. 
;!•  <■•  s«,ii  \    i'  i;  I  il.'  \  ,  i\  ,i_'c.       'I  III    I  ,ii-  \\  ,ii  il"    ^'i^;  •!  1  .ji  .i    ,,- 
.  -  i  .i  \i\  a   111  !-w";k  ■■:  <  i.iM>  |i.i^«ii;_'  "M  i    iIi-    n..:!  •■  i'.  ,' 
■'■-{■'.,■  .1  '..  :':•■  III  .;:•■:  \i\.         \   r.w    in   ■^i  ■,:.  :i;lic'r  1-   i:\i    . 
. ■  ' ,    ! ; I '  ■  .  .    1 :      I     I . Il   . :  t     ! ' ;  1 1    1 1 : 1 1  ■  ■     l  U    I  .■!  i   .   i ';,■>'  > 

..  .:l  .      I'l  -•    i  IP  :•■  .i:  '     1  ',M'    II.    I'p;  ;-    "'.     :  .<i-    . 

:ii    !i  >.\  .  \  ■  1'  .  .  ;■■  'i'!i'',   iM  lip    -  ■;■;<    ;-i  n.'  ii'i'  . 

i'  -t.    l'    ;i     ■  !  '.  .:     '':\  \\r'     \!.(i:''  ,  lip  i  ,.      I      !    \  >■:.    . 


Ill   ,1  1  ■:  i'\ 


\S  /  II    I      .    I  I        •    M        ,1--. 

'■■'"■■■-  w  t  I .    r,  I  I  :  ■ 

w  :  1 ;  1   1 , : ' . , 
'p  '       I  '■  IP  ti''   i  I .  'Ill     I  IP    I  .' 


:268  A    JOURNAL    OP    TRAVELS    IN 

iion-descript,  and  were  at  first  too  mu'  h  terrified  to  ap- 
proach it;  at  length,  howi^ver,  gdtherin^' courafjc,  they  be- 
gan to  examine,  and  fmdiiia'  it  to  be  a  frreat  bag  partly 
•:oilapsed,  they  wisely  conclu  Jed  that  it  ninst  be  again 
blown  up,  in  order  that  they  might  enter  to  examine  its  in- 
terior. Aocordliigly,  taking  it  iiito  a  house,  by  vigorous 
working  of  large  bellows  fixed  in  its  mouth,  they  succeed- 
•.'d  in  swelling  tl;e  srreat  bnbiile  to  its  former  dimensions  ; 
i.;ut  ti'!«  iiidrc  cen  gas  whicii  had  been  left  in  the  balloon, 
was  now  rendered  higldy  explosive,  by  the  mixture  of 
■■ii>  conimoii  air,  w'iich  they  had  blown  in.  and  it  needed 
r.oihiri.''  but  an  i-.'nited  i)ody  to  touch  it  nif.  Accordingly 
ilie  o\er  curiou-;,  iiiit  not  over  i)hilosopincal  countrymen, 
depiUed  one  of  iheir  nuntber  to  enter  with  a  lichtcd  can- 
•  ile,  to  sec  v.ii-it  was  v.  iihin.  No  sooner  had  the  ill-fated 
messenger  app'lied  his  candle  to  t!ie  door  of  this  dark  cav- 
iiv,  filled  with  gloomy  fiends  of  which  he  was  little  aw;u'e, 
liiau  tlie  whohi  blew  \\\)  with  a  loud  explosion,  throw  tlse 
jstonnded  spectatcu's  f.at  upon  the  tioor,  and  shattered  the 
■::;'ss  v.in  lows  of  the  house  to  atoms  ;  but  hap])ily  the 
il'ii'.nlity  ui" '^Ms  remaining  in  the  balloon  was  so  small,  ihat 
i;(j  liie  wa:-  lost. 

J'.ar'v  in  the  n  volution  the  Freiich  are  said  to  liavc  gai)i- 
I'd  a  gre;it  isattle  in  Flanders,  by  recoimoitering  the  ene- 
■ev's  position,  !rom  a  balloon,  and  subsetjutmtly  they  insti- 
;;ited  an  aeronautic  academy:  an  anchonnl  balloon  was 
Kept  constantly  on  ilight.  aiid  a  (.'oloncl.  with  a  select 
i-orj):-.  of  vonna  men,  was  employed  in  pi'actising  in  th<'sc 
■vw  ;.■  ivd  i-icSie-^. 


;   \     ;    SMI,     II'  •!  I    \M>      WD     -^     >  1  i    V  Mi.  Ji    .i 

low  1.!;    nil. I. 

.t.nn    :  '.  —  1    t.iii'^  a   w  -Ik    t  hi-  iii.  >!  ni:i  ;    t. .  'l',  .w  m-I  li '!, 
\\\i\i  ii  i^  -iiu-ili-'i  111  ar  till'    'I  (i\u  r  \\^<  !i.       Il    i-;    ip'i  ni:^  ii 

<  I  I  il  (  III  .i:''ll''  .  !i  1 1  U  li;'-  i  ircil  1  111,  i  I  III!  \  i!  \  (•'  Ml  x;  .11  ! ;-  .1 1  - 
111  l.lljll-ll  lii-|.ir\.  :i-  tlir  p!,!!-!'  wlplr  mil'  li  l!,.li!'-  I.;,.',i 
li,i^  'ii'i'ii  vj,|!t.  I, lull  r  i!p-  Ii.iipI  nl  I'li'-  I  \i  rill  11  iP'  1'.  I  1; 
I'.Mli'il  i;--i  \.  l':a-  !a\  i,i|iiir  ,i|  (^t'ici  ii  I  .l^/  iImi'i.  I  .'.  ,; 
l!ii-v,  i|.  I  .,ii  1  I  .i.\  .;.  \iiii  I'ln'cv  ;i.  ;;ii.i  liii'  ■_,<,[!  >:i  W  il- 
'i  am  \\  all  i-  r.  I  !>.'  a--'  i  In-  .il  tiir  ria  I'li.'N  I'T  111-  r.aial'  \ 
;•  ;ai';-'  tiir  t\  laiaA  it  I'  ^i.  aiM  I'lr  !a  M.  \- ]'\  'C-  I'r  In  \  -a 
.ail"  I  ■  \ '■'.'■  laaa  :'a.  ir  ,a  ,  i:],,  r  .  a-; '  a  ,  i  a-la  ■,  |  •  ;  -i,  -.  \i.  !i"-' 
h!.  1.  i   i.  '    .     '    .  ...,;;  1  11  -a~.    <  iiiiaa.-.i    1       ,        ,         :  |i,;r 


I..    I'l       I.    .Mt 


laili     .,,   ,   .    laa     ,   ,  - 
111  -    \.  1   !!•     lllr     la-t 


\  1 1  1  I  a  1  -    t  a   • 

r.u  pi  a 

la  ill  ■!  \^  nil 
lip-  T'^v.-r 


|i  ir;  a  I  :  II       .a-  i  ^    \\  .ai  a  '   ,    '.    ^  '  ■-  i  ,  • ,     a    <  i     ■      ' 
w.'''  f   111  \\  I  -I  111.-;-  r  ,1  a-  ir.a'.  !>  Ill  i:  i^  ■',  ',   r,' '].  ,;    i  ,•  ■ 
1    •  ■ "  -    *  ■  \  1  : , .        I ;  I  a  i    I  i  1  a    ,  .  a     i  - .   w    ' !  i  ■  ■  ■ , ,     ,  a  •  a  . : .     ,   a   1  a  1 
a.    a-  1  i  lai'a  a  a  I  w  .  >>  i  ii  \   i  ij  i 'a-  *•    \  ■  1 1  -'   |  "    i-'aa.  i  i.      I' 

il  :  \  1     1   la  ■-'  ;i    !'  >     1     '    a   '   via  !■.                               ,  /, 

I'l"  ii'Ma'a  ;  ataa  I  lai    -■■!. -aaa'.'  •     .  ■•  .  i,  ,,.    ■■      v  ,  i   i 

1'  I'l  111   :!i  li     MM'.        \\'  w.     iaall\'    I'  I  .      i-.  ■      :    a-     i     \\  .:]:  '■.'..■ 

^'    '1  111^  ■  I    la  ,  II    :  i"  I    vl.i':-  I'll         ■    .1  ,   ;  ■              :  a  ,.  ■  ■ 


.270  .'^    .lu(  JiNAL    OF    Tf.AVEl.S    LS 

Spotless  f.j?ii'its  ol' those  whom  they  liavc  coiisigiiod  to  an 
iufafnoiis  death. 

\\  ho  can  think  whhout  inuignation  of  Ann  Boleyn.  tfie 
ihnocent  victhn  of  royal  jealousy  and  licentiousness  ;  of 
Sir  Tl'.omas  Tilore,  th.e  just  and  wise,  yieldinL^  his  life  to 
the  same  ^jlooniy  tyrant ;  of  Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  the  orna- 
ment of  his  age  ;  and  of  the  Earl  of  Stafford,  uliose  only 
Clime  was  his  high-minded  loyalty — bolli  of  tlu'se  sacrifi- 
ced to  popular  resentment ;  and  more  than  ail,  of  Sir  Wil- 
liam Wallace,  arrayed  in  all  the  splendor  of  heroic  chival- 
ry and  devoted  patriotism,  the  W^ashington  of  his  age  and 
country — !)ut  boning  to  the  cruel  policy  of  an  able  but 
vvickcd  monarch. 

RAG  FAIR. 

./,'.'??c  ^  1. —  As  I  was  going  to  the  London  Dock,  this 
cvi'iiiug.  with  some  companions,  we  passed  throisgh  a  great 
nowi!  of  dirty  ragged  peoj)le,  to  the  number  of  some  hun- 
circtis.  Tiicy  appfNued  to  be  very  busy  in  displaying  and 
^•xamining  old  clothes  which  they  were  pulling  out  from 
i>n';rs  in  which  thry  were  contained.  Ti;is,  I  was  inlbrm- 
f  ;1.  is  rcis  f\i>r.  it  is  held  here  every  evening  for  the  sale 
of  old  cloihcs  which,  are  collected  all  over  London,  prin- 
cip.ally  by  .Jews,  who  sro  -'bont  u'ith  ba.-rs  on  \h<Av  shoul- 
ders. cvyiii'T,  witli  p  peculiar]}-  harsh  guttural  sound,  clotiia-', 
c!/}tl'C!u  f'-'/''  c/o.'/' f'u'.  \o\i  will  meet  them  in  every  street 
i'.ud  aliev  in  London,  anci  at  evening  tiicy  repair  to  AVap- 
siHiL',  wlicrc  a.  grand  di-|i!ay  is  made  of  every  species  of 
yr>p;nf'l  in  every  st;ige  of  decay.  SMmrtimes  they  aie  in 
Jattrrs.  and  at  ot'ier  times  merdy  soiled.  Here  jieople  of 
ik»^   'ov/cr   v.ivk^  iiiiiy  muke  a  sele<tion  which  is  to  th':in 


I  S'  I  WD.   iMii.AM*    \n;)  >..m;.\m).  ',  1 

11  all  »    \i'l\    (l^i'l'il.  a;i;i   a    \l'«tV  (•"\'-u|il!»    111  i\    .ii'c  K   IlilU>'-'t 
ill  ill-'  r:i^!-o!l  :ii;i  :  \  "i  tin    I  .,  mi,  ion  <  ,  i.k  •!■■  .  -. 

I  iii^  1-^  ti)il\  Miv  iii>l.ii)''i'  ol  a  •jr,  .;  -\Mi'ni(>l  similar 
II  an>ai'ti>ii;>.  'I  Iptc  ,;ii'  N.Mp-  in  i  \i  i\  j  ,iii  ni  I.m.,,;m;i, 
u  Ih-n-  ,1  niafi  iii.iv  ;u!  ni^ii  iii.1,-1  ii  \^  i'  ii  ;!:i-  ni"-i  i.ii,M.M  .nt 
i!  till.  V  <.\  .irr--  iM  a  I. 'A  -iiilliii.'-  :  IT  i;i-l.'nc.',  tii'  1.  ii.- 
irni'ir''  i-  ni  li. !,,(  ,ii;/|  ~.\\.>r  -;<irrv.  w  !r  II-  til:--"  ,ii  lid-'^  ai.^ 
»"!■!  "I  -'I'-li  i-.i.|.-  u.-i-ivii!  n>iiti>  ai'-i  oi'  •.nrli  inl'  i  Mr  in  .;■■- 
i)i!~.lii  I  i;.'!'  iiri""  l<  u  \\\\'>  ra'!::.i!  li:i\.a.:  !•  .-vt  anuai:' 
i-'M  ii  1 1'  '•  -  \v  iiirii  ai'- SI  r.in.i  l|  i:!,l.  lin-ii  i-  pi"lia'i;v 
I;  '  ji!  11-  -  m  tia-  \».iil  1  wii'iT  ill  .'|i!<-  (i|  all  ri'i.-iiliMiis  iaa\ 
'■■  'i:«il!l   tia- 11-  I  il  raill-Iaia''  s   -n  •  la  f  la'i  \    a--   in    I  aUaicIl. 

A"     in    •>-!  \  !  I(  -    \\n    \i  i;i<   \\- 


I'l.  ni    -'a-  !  ■      '     ■ 
in  J  in  lii-^    1  . 

1 .  ,  1   r.  1 1  a  ■ ! ;   1 1     - 
.■  I  I-.    I  ,     .   • 

•  -  ■(  iniani-  I  1   1  .■.:-'i 


.1    !•■'  u  ■ 


\  na  I  iraii  "'i'| ' 


I  , :  1 1  \\  ■  •  .i,\  - '  '.  I  ! . i I  1  ; . . . - 
■.:■■.  I 'a  "  ".  '  ."  \  ■  a  :  '■■  1.  ;i  •  -ai 
...  •  .  [  ....y    all     tia^ 

a' .:<  I  -  an  I  '  ■;  l.i-i  -...'i  r  nii  ;.!•  i  -. 
.in<  i  ari-  "I  la  .a :■>■■;  n-  aa  - ,,  an  'i  t  -i  ■  '  a  '  .a  l\i  .  •.  i ,,  a  '.  aii  . 
h  atari's   aiiri  !■■-..       I   na  aii.ai    t;  ■         ■  ,- 

i  ill-  lart    lias    !i.  ,  I  a..    .   ■  '  i  •  Jia  •  \  '.  •■.  a  ..    i.       \  •  ■  i   w  .!  1  ■  ■  <  a- 

« 1 . 1  n  a  1 '.  \    1 11 '  ■  I    ;  a   •   .        '■■'-,:,    I   .     ,  ' .  a       ■,;-••'.',.     a  '    - 


v  ■  a   1 ,  I  - 1  -  -  .  ■  ■  \ 


2l2  A   JOURNAL    OF    TKAVJl'L?    IN 

condition  much  superior  to  that  of  their  countrymen  any- 
where else.  A  black  footman  is  considered  as  a  gseai  ac- 
quisition,  and  consequently,  negro  sei'vants  are  souglit  tor 
and  caressed.  An  ill  dressed  or  starving  negro  is  ne-\er 
seen  in  England,  and  in  some  instances  even  alliances  are 
formed  between  them  and  white  girls  of  tlie  lower  orders 
of  society.  A  few  days  since,  1  met  in  O.vfoi'd-stieet  a 
well  dressed  v/Iiite  girl,  wlio  was  of  a  ruddy  co!nj)lcxion, 
and  even  handsome,  walking  arm  in  ai-ni,  and  conversing 
\ery  sociably,  with  a  negro  man,  who  was  as  well  dressed 
as  she,  ami  so  black  that  his  skin  had  a  kind  of  ebony  lus- 
tre. .\s  there  are  no  slaves  in  England,  perhaps  the  En- 
glish ha\e  net  Icarred  to  regard  negroes  as  a  degraded 
class  of  Tiien,  as  we  do  in  the  Enited  Stales,  where  we 
have  ne\er  seen  tlieni  in  any  other  condition. 

It  is  true,  that  in  our  eastern  and  middle  states,  and  in 
all  north  of  the  river  O'lio,  tiiere  ai'C  few  or  no  slaves, 
a.nd  the  emancipated  i){acks,  in  many  instances,  rise  to  the 
!>esHes&ion  of  property',  and  of  some  personal  respectabil- 
ity, but  probably,  it  wi'l  never  be  possible  to  blend  them 
by  jnterinarriagc  with  tlie  whites.  After  all  that  we  say, 
and  with  much  truth,  of  the  superiority  of  our  country 
over  otiiers  in  civil  liberty,  it  is  a  foul  dishonour,  it  is  a 
crying  inituiiiy,  it  is  a  most  glaring  inconsistency,  that  we 
tolerate  slavery.  Other  nations  throw  back  into  our  laces 
this  dreadful  oppro!)r!un!,  to  which  we  must  submit,  in  the 
silence  of  conscious  guilt  and  disgrace  :  while  England, 
der  ply  guilty,  in  Iniving  first  introduced  slavery  among  us 
wheii  we  were  \vr  color.ies — in  still  snstainintr  it  in  the 
West  E-i(li(-s,  and  in  having  so  long  sustained  the  slave 
trade,  which  vlie  has  at  last  prohibited — formerly  o()pres- 
vw  In   her  attcniiits  to  subjugate  us — still  oj)pressivc  in 


LMI    \M).    M'U.L\M)     AM»     -ill    \\L).  ^  ,  .< 

-\\.'\-  ov.  I  til''  (i>-vul<il  iiiiili'i!i<  i>\  \-ii — but  jirniiilly 
>i.;,MU  ;il  ii  'I'll'.  -illl'iT^  no  vl.isv  t"  .■..lUanmiritr  lici 
II  1  .i;i- 'jxMii  (l..!ii,ii:i  :  tin'  ^l.is  •■  no  vonii.T  tourli.-s  h.-r 
!■•-.  ;ii;.|  111'. •;!''.!•■-  Ii<  I  at ino-^ilierr.  tli.iii  lii^  ell  iiii^  I  111 
I.  hi-  liiiiii*.    Liii  i  ',••  i\\ii!>  ir.  lli»- (.oii-ci. nielli  vs  ,  ;'   ]h- 


WII  — LONDON 


M;:-:-  —  \ 


I  .     I        .    ,'    •,.      .1  ,;    ;.    :.;.     -I      \m.m<-,>!1v    :■  ■ 

i    .•  .  ..:■■  ■':■  ,  ,1.  .1  ai.-Ml    i  ;;;ilf    iiid  a 

1  .  Illltic  !  il.   .  01    liji-  >(||  1  V 

)  .;      -  ,,   :•  a-  .  '  i\  M   a  laiiiiai  r  ni'  ai'i<-. 

•     1 .  a  '   't  I '.     ^  "...•!  a  ,    i:>  <■    li  I  iiii    !  1  'i^^. 

■■:]•■  |i!a;,Ii  .1  I  \  .  I  V 

!•  ;    .    ,       ,    '  .  '')•  ^  ..:■■.' ;.     •    ':.  ' '  i    -'ii  ii'x.       I   'aaai' 

i!'.-  ■    >v    '■';  -   'A  '•  •  ]■!'-  iai'ii .  --•     1  ' !.  ,1    I   w  a-  a 'nil,'  t  '  -'  >' 

•        ■  '  '  ■      ".  'i  ir'i    I    ii  lo 

I'l'  :  ('■     .    :i.  .  '.        \.  a     >s   ,  ■    I  '    '.       I  "i  .    a-  \\' 

'■;•■!.      I     ~.   .   Ill-    ;i]  .   -      .]''   ail-'.  ,     'l'    \  ■  i!!-!    'ii    -I'l  Ijl- 

.ai.'-l     I  >-\"iii  >  •••.    .-(.iKa;.    .  \>-,-r.\\ii  ■     aii    ilia: 
"■!-   a  I',.     I..1  I   ..:   •  o;  \    i  III  ;,   a;  ■]    f^ls  -^aa   \\c]   1-. 
1  i-'Ha  i!ii'  ti '  •  -.  i'\ .  II  lo  til'  ii  \  •  ,  \   :■'',•-  and  i'\li '  ai.li'  -. 
'ai    tih'    |.  a;  '    al'i'ii'  d    i''~~  ''  ''    '''     '  ^'''    "-•'""•    ''■    ' 

'      ;ii  '  !■  i.  ;j  i,!||.  I   Hi  ■'ia,ai'  :    -■  •    ai  ■  n.  ':  om  tin    alrM\  •   ■ 


2/4  A    JOIRNAL    OF    Tr.AVKLS    IX 

and  recesses  which  surround  tlie  whole,  and  from  the  orr 
chestra  and  pavilions,  such  a  flood  ol"  brightness  was  pour- 
ed out  from  ten  thousand  himjis,  whose  flames  were  ting- 
ed with  every  hue  of  light,  and  which  were  disposed  in  i 
figures,  exhibiting  at  once  all  that  is  beautiful  in  regularity, 
and  all  tliat  is  fascinating  in  the  arrangements  of  taste  and 
fancy — that  one  might  almost  have,  doubted  vvhetiier  it 
were  not  a  splendid  illusion  which  imagination  was  play- 
ing oft' upon  his  senses.  Do  not  suspect  me  of  exaggera- 
tion, for,  wliat  I  have  now  written  can  give  you  but  a  faint 
idea  of  this  abode  of  pleasure. 

The  arclied  passages  to  wliich  I  just  now  alluded,  cross 
ihe  gard"ns  at  right  angles  with  each  other,  a!id  yet,  not 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  obscure  the  trees.  In  th'^  recesses 
which  bound  the  gardens  on  several  sides,  and  also  1)0- 
iicath  tlic  trees,  taljles  are  pu>.ccd,  furnished  with  colil  col- 
hitions,  confeciioiiaries,  and  other  refreshments.  Trans- 
jiarcnt  jjaintings  rc-ulered  cons[)icuous  by  liclits  behind 
tlicui,  terminate  several  of  the  a^  enucs,  and  al!  the  arbours 
and  vvalks  are  painted  in  a  sjjlendid  manner. 

Tiie  rotunda  is  a  maQnificent  room  ;  it  is  fiuv'ly  [jainied, 
Its  walls  are  covered  wiih  mirrors  and  gilding,  and  two  o'. 
ihe  princi])a]  arched  jjassatfes  cross  each  other  here.  Thr 
Hags  of  several  nations  are  sns{)ended  within,  accompani- 
ed by  ])aintin<is  characteristic  of  the  several  countries. 

The  orch'-slra  is  er(X'ted  nearly  in  the  ct.'tifre  ol  liir 
gardens.  It  is  in  the  form  (tf  a  (ire<'ian  temple  "  the  sec- 
ond story  is  open  in  iVoiU.   and   there  the  musicians  <ai" 

|»lar(  (1, 

Aiioul  10  o'clock.  thou'^Miiids  of  well  dressed  [H'op]^- 
ihronucd  ihr  Manlens.  Tlu'  fuvsl  eutertainnifnt  consiMCc 
of  vocii!  ami  instrumental  nnisic   l>o)n  the  orchestra,  and 


!    \\:).     !!■  '1  I,  W!)      \M)     -•  'I  1  r.  \Ni>. 


'.,-,1    ,1    II   i   .  I     •  m;:i|,  i;:\    ..I    HUM'  I  ri>.   Ill    ii.iim...  r    ,;'i.'i|I    lliir- 

;  \  ,  ,ii.  -;  -j'!!  u  1;  .1  .  ili'  ^^'^l.  .uni  k  i^w  n  l>\  (',•  im-h.'  nl 
■'.    ■     '>,,\.-  .'I    N^.Ia"-    biipi.    |i'  1  !i>i  iii'.l  III  ;i  \  CI  \    MijH'iKH 

--.'■.  I   ',.     i.ir'i.^!.!    ItM  ll     i>    Mil,-     nl     IiM'    |!i(,sl      liriUUnI 

•  .  ■  '  ;<  III  it  I  ,111  l«-  III  .1  _  ill'  I.  Ii  i->  .1  '  III  n  111  1'  'iijil.  m1 
'  '  111'  III  -I'.i'.  .ni'i  il  I-  .liiimiiiat'  ■'[  \\:[''\  ^  u  li  .i  i 'i. 'I  ini.  .ii 
";'  1.1.11,1-  :ni,ri,''i  iii  iIh'  Lii>->  m|  i!i.'  IiiiiM  ■ 'i  _■  i!i;ii  iiv  ap- 
;'■   ',1  111'''    !>•  '  \i!.iii"!\   -|-!t  ihl'.i.      'I  111-.--  !  iiiips  ai,   -imiiU' 

1  ;'i'  II   l"i  ;n  'hh  \'i\   !h  i;i!im1  In  tin  ir  i  lii'i  i.      'I  ii.  \  aic 

•  111'  vv  'I  i!  -iilit  lie  il.  "ji'Mi  at  t'li  t";i  Ml, I  >ii-]M  ii.i'  -1  li\  a 
•*  I''.  I  !:•■  w  hL  ll'i:-  ill  tlf  "il.  la- 1  til'  \\  il"'-'  !■  ■!  Ill-  ;i 
.■;il.'  iiiaaiiiia.t-  'I  !i,cl!, 

I  111'  <!ir  rail'  '■  1. '  t!i'  ■_'ai .  a  ri^  I  a  '■-■  i,;^  \  '•  i  \\  lin  -  i.  'al'l- 
.-'v^-"!  lla'-'-  laiiiji-  airaii'_i'>l  la  [m  r| "Hi Ii' ii'iar  liia  -  ■  a 
Ml''  [allai-.  aiiil  tin  11  Willi  uliii'i  i.'W-.  r.  la '  -jml!  : 
\'iilitli''  la  ni  I'l'  till'  ima  ciT  ;li.-  aia  in-l  ]ia~-ia  i  .'  r 
",  iiii  il  \  .-a  1  all  aa  M-a  '  ill-'  I'aa  i\  '■  "I  l!ii-  i",a'.  '••  a  a.;- 
■•'.'.  .1  V  iat'  1  'la  ,  iria  1.-.  "liiM  laiaa-  afi  -  ■  |"  i.  l- 
-  i  -  ■  i-  i  •  i .  pi  'm  iil  •in  -■  n  i  •.  il'  a\  (  1.-.  (  .'la-  .\  1  :\r- 
;  iiM  .  l'a,.t  ;ai  -1-  lain  ji-  aii-  1 1  la-  i  ii  -j  "  ■-!  i|  ai  ■•'■  <  i  \  |..'a  I  nl 
;  a''  '_■  ii  I  hai .  Ill  ". '  I  v  \  ai  a,  Mi-  aial  in  naita!  l"i  ';,- ,  aai  ai  j  tin' 
!,''•■-  ail'!  .'ri'i  11  1'  a\  !■-.  Ill  ill'-  all'"  V  '■-,  Ml'--  -.  all  I  i  a- 
1  ii'-Ila.  aiai  til  il  -■aiii'  .an-  .ii'  a.  niiaa-  i''  I,  >  I'aa-  I'Im  . 
A  a.  1 1  a:-  I:  iii-iiat' iia:  ia\  -  i  a  tai-c  la  ,1,  'ill  -  ■  lal  v  .  an!  \  -  a 
::;  iV  llnai  l"iaii  -nap-  i  !•■  i  '•;  lia'   an  ji  ii-  it'  \  aavliai!. 

<  >ai  lil'I''  |aii\  ai  til''  'i-ir  li  i,-  u  -  n'l  '.  i  lia-  .hi'  ■  i,,i  i 
■  • ;  a  a  \  I  a '  r  a  1 1 1  ■  a  a '  a  1 1 : ,  w  !  a )  \\  ,  i  ^  ;  a  a  i '  a  a  r  '.*  i ! '  i  t  a  •  ■  ]  •  i , . .  a  . 
\--"ai  1-  t!'''  Saial  liaii  liiii-!i..i  li'H.iiai'a  ,  la'I"iilii- 
{  I  ran  a  Ml  a  la  ai .  waai  h  w  r  liai  •v\  iiii  all  p  >  -s;  iar  -ji'-i  ,  1.  a> 
>*'■  -  iw  'A  la  \  !"•■:■>  r  iiini'!::  I  !i  ii  \s  .1 V  a  ail  !ii  la  il  \v  '■  kiaw 
I  a  it  w  ii\  .  1 1  ' » la  J  11  .nil'  .1  I'lii-  lai  ^  "I  uiir  "i  tin  aa  .ia  i 
lll-^a-,^,,    tia'  '  ai't  liii.    Ill    Ita.jM    '■    p.'ii'-a'K    i-i   ii'-.-ai    .'^1 


'2J6  A    JOrRNAL    OF    TRAVELS    IN 

told  US  to  haul  our  icind  and  lay  our  courae  for  the  fence. 
This  we  did,  and  ihe  mystery  was  soon  explained.  For. 
down  in  a  dark  wood,  wc  perceived  a  curtain  rise,  which 
discovered  London  bridcie,  and  the  water-works  under  it 
nearly  as  lar^e  as  the  original.  The  scene  was  produced 
by  a  combination  of  painting  and  mechanism.  An  old 
woman  was  sitino;  and  spinning  at  the  foot  of  the  bridge; 
ihe  mail  and  heavy  coach  passed  over  into  town,  and  a 
fierce  bull  follovvetl  driving  before  him  an  ass.  The  thing 
was  very  well  done,  and  it  was  at  once  so  odd,  unexpect- 
ed and  }iuerile,  that  it  afforded  us  more  diversion  than  a 
line  strain  of  wit  could  have  done. 

Afier  this  exhibition  there  was  music  again  from  the 
urc!;t;stra. 

It  was  now  past  eleven  o'clock,  and  the  bell  rung  for 
the  fire-works.  These  were  exhibited  from  the  bottom 
of  a  long  dark  avenue,  terminated  by  a  grove.  They 
were  very  splendid,  and,  as  the  night  was  uncommonly 
dark,  they  produced  their  full  effect.  It  is  impossible  to 
give  any  adequate  idea  of  them  by  description. 

After  the  fire-works  there  was  an  intermission,  while 
every  body  tliat  was  disp>oied  sat  down  to  the  cold  colla- 
iion.  Our  {)arty  had  engaged  a  table  in  one  of  the  boxes, 
as  they  are  called.  They  are,  in  fact,  little  apartments, 
without  doors,  closed  on  three  sides,  and  openinj;  into  the 
l;ardens.  I  was  now  no  longer  at  a  loss  for  tlie  meaning 
'jr  [jropriety  of  tlic  proverbial  expressicn,  a  FauxliaU 
■slice  ;  for  the  ham  was  shaved  so  thin,  that  it  served 
ratlKT  to  excite  than  to  allay  the  a])petite.  We  sat,  until 
(he  music,  beginning  again,  animated  the  comjiany  to  nr-v: 
V'ats. 


i  \  .1.  \M).  11    )  1.  \si>  AM)   ,  '  ■ ' :  1  \MJ.  :  ,  , 

r,,  ^i.i.•  I'.ir  11111^1. -'iihs  in  till'  1': 'ii' >tr;i.  ^'\tMil  Mim  i 
,1111. N  ]'.n\v  a|i[ii  .iM  il  ill  diii'iiin!  j  ![>  ni  til'-  i;ii  !>i.-. 
~.a;i(l  (111  ilf\:iii,l  plali. '1  li-.  r.'il''  I  in.   aiul  c  i\i|.il  \\  .I'n 

^  ji'id.'ilil     r:clli>pir>.  '  N!ll>ir     IMiW     !il'</.,'   nat    liMli!    \,!ii    .lis 

laiarl'-r^.  ami  a  ii.'w  i  ii''  i  laiiimi  nt  wa-"  !■[..  iir.l  !..  the  ,  ■  :.i- 
jiaiu  .  Till'  a^~.  iii'ili"  -  in  tli'  -r  •_  ir.liaiN  al\\  a\  ■-  Ma  a;  'a  .■ 
.  ii.v\ii  ol  'jiaii.-.l  [..  I'j.I''.  aiii.ar'  wIlhii  ar.'.  Iii'iji;.  i.i '  \  . 
^.iiiH'  ..f  ill.'  U'.l.aiix .  a  a.  I,  n.aa-i' .ii  i!l\  .  i'\  i  n  tlic  1-,  iiiL'  an  I 
.  M<'.a!  an  i  r.'S'al  !ai!i';!\  a;. p.  ai-  a;   \  ,!i:\'a  :':l. 

I'.at,  ill  a.ii'iin.Mi  I.,  ill'  •!■.  I'.i  -'II  ill    j-  a  i   .a'  I  In  la.iu  .!  > 
.  uli'ji.i-i',!    (.1     .-Min-|.  ,'.  111^.       'I  in  ■\     a;'.-    ..i     I'lit     cia-^     \\\:t< 
.a"'  ^-  .■'■.il' I  Il\  .    lual   win.v    maama'-.    ,a.-    |.-^    i::. '.  •■.  aa  .^.- 
• "    ■  a    In  n^a  .1    wall    p.  i'^.  .a-  .  ■!    lin  a'    .aiai  i'  a-aa        I  iv    i .  - 
a.  'A  .il    111    I  in"    iHii>',.'  \^  ;-.    1 1    -ri  a'-  .   a  M    a  ii    1.  .r    ll;.  ai    ;. . 
.  .  i.naa.n.-.'   .lai.'ia  a      'i  !av  \\'-\   .;i  1    in  m  ■. .  :,il    ■_  -..apv  in 
.  .i/n.  i-   pai't^  ..!     I:r        n  .!•  il-.    aial    l' i.'   \  .  .a  .  _    nnai   i.  ,i. '11  , 
-  ■    '    lln  ai.       T.a  !.■   V.   .<  ...a..  .      li-     ■     .1,,;..  ar    l-n.  , !.  -:  a 
■       ':,;.■..!    !m  a  ii\     aa.|    I  I.  ■       .•  ■  .        :-i    --.aa.    u!    lina:: 
.  ■  I M  n  I  >  i    i  I  1  \ .  ■  a  ■  '  a  1 1  n  . : .    1 1 1  i  n    In".  ■  a  .a'  ■■  i  \ ! .  i  n  \  •    a  >  ... 
'I  in  Ir  inann.  1  -  .la  1  ni  >  ;■  -  ■  n    a    'nana    w  !il;.-    il,.  \ 
t   s(i    -f.   -    I-     .n.  !■-     aa;,    tn    .-x.a-    .a-    a-!.     \\  •  v 
■    ,.ai     ,-     1   'la    In    I.'  !     Ii>    .1.     'I  11). a        1    .a;     1.  a  ili\     a    . 
>A  aat     I  l..ani    a-  -a  ''  a.    ;!i  ;t    --.am'    i  •  -  .  .a  a.lr    !,a!l      .    . 
i  I  i .  1 1 1  ■  1 1 1 . 1 1 1  I  .  a  n  II  n  .  n   .  r.  t    a  \  .  ,  a  i .  I  i  >  ■  -  -  t '  •  ,  1 1  i  a .  1 1 1  n , .  - '    ;    '■.'<■ 
I  .  ai.  1  •' I  a^ion.il'a.a  a;  ,1  .'i  ,y!ii-.  in:  a  I  n  ■  ' 

\ni  .'I.    ■  1  ■■  ;     V  ■ "  .iM  v-  in  '!,'■  ■•    •''.■'■.     •,■,  , 
w'  ,  i'l.-  !..  i\  -  i.i  .--.■■!  ill  :i    ;  \  'aliif  iiaa..:  !■!      T 


,,..a   ,..,.  --.an:.,   im 
in  'i    rhil  ill  II,    an.',  r 


2(S  A   JOURNAL    OF    TRAVELS    IX 

over  this  may  be,  it  is  certain  that  both  ladies  and  gentle- 
men, and  little  misses  and  masters,  are  always  spectators 
of  these  scenes,  and  I  saw  numerous  instances  where 
young  men  would  leave  ladies  who  were  under  their  care, 
and  join  the  dances,  and  then  return  to  their  friends  ajrain. 

This  scene  continued  till  half  after  one  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  when  our  jiarty  came  away,  and  I  was  told  tliat 
it  would  probably  continue  till  three  o'clock. 

The  new  day  had  dawned  when  I  reached  home  ;  1 
was  much  fatigued,  and  went  to  bed  with  a  violent  head- 
ache, and  completely  disgusted  with  a  place,  which,  al- 
though superlatively  elegant,  is,  1  am  convinced,  a  most 
successful  school  of  c.orruj)tion. 


Xo.  XXllI.— LONDON. 

Mutiic  of  Commons — Tiicoiivcniences  to  wliicii  ?jiectator,~  are 
sul)jected — Conversatioti  witli  a  member — Rotten  boronglis — 
Debate  on  the  army — Col.  Crawford — Mr.  Pitt — Lord  Castle- 
reagli — Windliam's  retort  courteous — Mr.  Fox—Sheridan — As- 
sociation of  Jdias — Ceremonies  and  customs — Weather  and 
winds. 

HOUSE  OF  CO.M.MO.NS. 

At  a  dinner,  a  fvw  days  since,  I  was  introduced  to  Sir 
Christ()])her  Hawkins  and  Davies  (xiddy,  I^sq.  two  mem- 
bers of  the  House  of  ('onimons,  uhowereso  kind  as  to 
jiienlion  this  day  to  me  as  one  that  would  probably  pro- 
dnce  debates  in  their  body  with  ^\hich  a  stranger  would 
be  gratified.     One  of  these  gentlenu  n  gave  me  a  good  seat 


K\      1    •.  M).     !!•    I  1    WD      \Vi)     -''"Ml    WD 


:i  liii    L'-lii  I  \ .   .1-^    ii''    l:.i'l    I'ii' 1' .1  •,■'    il"  \ui' II   I  -  ;■,'.     ii.:;i 

.1  ..il'-.         >i;  ul!.'i">     :ir''l'"!     .l.i.lllMr   !    (U     liir     ll' ■< '1    .■■     I '; :  C 

liMii-i\  null  >^  l!i('\   :iri'    I'i!fi_'ii  miiii-l'i^.  "T,  .u>-  -p 
,H-i:i::i;,  -1.    ;u!(l    ;!l      ii'l'lN    lii-It  !.>;■(■  :ii:-l.!«     lh''"i:i_\    ", 
iM'i  lli'.'tV    .>r    -II  i:>'_'    ill.'    1  Ii;il -.■    Ill     (  'I'lllllin;!-.        '  i  1 1> '    1 1 ;;  1 '  •- 

'iiH'iiuii  ol  ;i  I'i'  ill!"  r  -'run'-  \  .ui  a  >rii  'ji,'.ti>  ;   cil:!.'!  w  i'  • 

■  i  ti  ■',.-.  Ii'  i~  iiai  !  Ill  ill''  li'KM  -i^rij'i  ;■.  I'lmii  l::!l!  ,i  i  r  'V.  ;i  '  " 
1  .!''   I         ;iii    I.    ,'■■■■;',;.     ,■-   til'-  D'-iM  -ii'ii  ;>    in  T'  i.r    l^'- 

!  .    '      -  '    --.i:  ill   ll.  II    il    w  ill   11.  I    Ii.  I'^ 

:  ■  :   '  I !  1 . 1 , 1  .  1 1 '    '     . .  ■  i  1 .    1  .  11 ; . !  I , ,  I  v   .  -  r   \'.\o   1  n  i ;  i  :  1 1  •  1    ;  •  ■  '  ■  |  i  •  . 

.»  :  1  I  -Ir  •  i!  !  ,'..'.1.'.^  ii'ii  .■•. '  ;i  V  ,  iii.i::\  .  \\  m  ihm  r  r.\  i;:;- 
'"I  [.,ii!  (!■  ii.ii'    :>  •  \)i' CI.  t!.  It  !)ri-iiiiirv  iM  '•'"--. I r_\  lin  i .  ;>  'n 

.'.";•)  i..-    1  1 .  '1-  •    •< '  I  \    I  ,.:  !  ■.    ill    ni   irr    t'  1    si^-.'if   ,1    -'    i"  ; 

;    .'■        ll:'T\     .-    -    '     I     ;.,!!''-.    I  ic,  llplr.l    \iV    si'\i'll    i'  r''"  '^     \.    "' !  . 

■  ui-i  ill.    II  ;  "1  ■  :.  I'll  '""i    "■'  1'"  K  1*.  ^!         ' 
'I..  ■  I'-'Ii'-.^    ',.  ,i-ii-    ;!:■    ^p.  I  ;,i'.  .[■-   111,1  •.   '.•<■  ii;il'.;i    1  !  '  \'.  ■  '. 
.1     I  ;','  i..   ;.i  ,il!  ;i:..'),i'.iji\ .  :l!i-  vi'  .■>  r    |     ri  <  I   ;;i:'   \.'._ !  ' 

1"--'  .i    !i\    ill'-  '!'  i'.il''.       \:''  !    \ .  u    l..i\ '    "i,  ■' 

:  :  ,'  !l  '.  Mil  -I  II.  \  -'  I  li;  ,-;  ,[i  !;i  .Ii\'  ucr'ipv  il  ,'ll  lii,  li.ii--. 
'    1    _\  "  I    ill''  |-..!l-.|,,',  ,,  ,!    ;;,    |,  ;;    I   p  :;-,!,;:■_;    J!.         'i   !,•     ;■   'I      Iii.'a  - 

'  \  11  I'  .iri.-.v '    I  ;  1  ll.'  .Ill  :ii;,  ij'i  il'-  !.■■  ii-f  i:!;il',  \ 

•  .  .  ;iM  i  !.'.    I'.:-,  lit  '   ill'-  111    \  .11,  r  j  i|  ..■'.'..  ii    In  .  •,    ;  1  i\  iiiu   .' 

i  :  l.'l    ll  l\  h   ■      li.-i   ;l    1  .:.!  . 

\  -   I  li.     I  !•  'I ;  •.     \\  i-    ir  .;   '.  • 

il  I    1    'jl\  .   11    111-'  .1    [il.M'-    ill    ill"     :     :l.i  >  .    'A  ,i-   >■!     .1' 

-  I  ';.  .\\  r.  iiii'i  •  m:i  I  i  1 1'l  nil-    vs  ,l  n  iii_>  i .  :  :  ii  %  -  i  ,  :    .. 

iii''iii.ii\    :ii!a;'  ■ .       1 II  ill.'    r.  I,:    ,      .  I    ii,>    i  .i .  ••  i  \  ,i  I ',  ■:  l^. 

■  :    ill'-  ..1  i    ■  I'l  •.  ;    .-;    i..;;   ,i    I-  n.'i  -s.      | 

■  ;!  u  :  .\    I.,  i   111. -.1   :i  '1   :i    ;i  i;  I     ,  ,i    i 

h,'   1  •   i.  ll:!  -.      .ill'i.      Ill      --ir   I  ;.     I..'  ;i 


;280  A    JOURNAL    OP    TRAVELS    iN 

iloiise  of  Commons,  and  thus  bring  their  professional- 
knowh'dge  to  apliicc  where  it  is  much  wanted,  not  to  men- 
tion that  an  o[)[)oitMniJy  was  thus  afforded  them,  by  their 
personal  vigilance,  to  take  efTectual  care  of  the  rights  of 
their  respective  professions.  In  the  elections  by  counties 
and  towns,  it  seems  that  it  is  usual  to  send  up  some  person 
]ocai!y  settled  among  those  who  elect  him,  but,  in  the  bo- 
rough elections,  any  man,  residing  even  in  the  remotest 
part  of  the  kingdoin,  may  set  himself  up,  or,  (which  is  the 
more  common  course,)  his  friends  may  do  it  for  him.  As 
the  election  is  generally  under  the  control  of  a  tew  men, 
who  have  become  possessed  of  the  freeholds,  to  which  the 
right  of  election  was,  by  the  charters  of  kings,  originally 
granted,  it  is  not  a  very  difficult  thing  to  becom.e,  through 
them,  a  member  of  the  House  of  Commons.  The  gentle- 
man ^vith  whom  I  was  conversing,  was  a  member  from 
Cornwall, 

It  was  not  quite  four  o'clock,  when  Mr.  Abbot,  the 
Speaker,  came  in.  Alter  a  short  religious  service,  tlie 
Speaker  counted  the  members  present,  and  when  forty 
had  aj)pearcd,  he  took  the  chair.  I  was  informed  that  if 
forty  do  not  apjiear  at  four  o'clock,  the  Speaker  instantly 
udionrns  the  Tloesc  till  the  next  day. 

The  Honse  of  Commons  sit  in  St.  Stephen's  Chajjel, 
which  they  have  occupied  ever  since  the  reign  of  Henry 
\  i.  This  apartment,,  as  before  observed,  is  connected 
with  Westminster  Hall,  so  that,  in  jxissing  from  the  onr 
to  the  other,  there  is  no  necessity  of  going  out  of  doors. 

The  room  occupicfl  by  the  [louse  of  Commons  is  merc^- 
lyneat;  it  lias  no  apjiearance  of  spl(>ndor,  and  is  reall\ 
unequal  to  the  diirnity  ol'this  great  nation.  The  ])rinci))al 
tibiection  h>  il  is  in  point  of  si/.e.  for  it  is  much  too   ?!n;!'.l 


[  Ni.i.  \M).   li.'i  I  wu    \M>    -1  '- ;  1  *.  N  :>.  -   -I 

lor  t'li'  itfri'.iinn.Hiiti.'ii  "l  umi  ■■  lIiHii  ^i\  iiiiiiii.  i  >!  i:ii  ;iil).  .  -. 

!;■!'.    lil«'\    ;il<-     li'Mlall      [ilrMMt.         'i'lif    -i   li"     :!!|.   lirs     U[f 

U'h-.'.  i!;)  I'lr  tl;.~  II-:'  ni  iMr  p.i.  Ml ! I. T- .  ail  I  it  i-  i.:.!',    ;ii>'  ■^.il- 

l'r_\    .11    l!|f  ril;i  i.i'  tl].'    I  I.  Ill -I  ■    U  llicli    i>  ,|r\.it<(i    !'>  -tl    i'    .'^  .  -. 

I'll.-  ill),. r>  ;iif    r.i\  cii-J  \\  it!i    <-;u  p- t-.  .ir«l    fin--     >' ^    \^i^l 
'.!■'  '  ii  I  !  'ill.  !i'-i  !'■>  a  III  iMiii/  m   cii-hi  iii>. 

I   -!miI   p..  11,    I  III   lliiv    urra-i.iii.  ai't  a-  -fii.  i;  r  M '!■'  ;   U<  :','■ 
Ilnn-i'.       I  w  i'l  I  i<  mi,  ai  iiiii  \  a  li  \v  r,.<  !~.       ^Ial;^    t.aa.-si.i 


I.IUi     i.il 


i\rr    t'l-l-Hl, 


U 


I   lia-  i.i:!it 


I  ini  n  !,!'  !|  !i  I  1  'ii  fii  I  \:iM  --In  av-:i;Mi  u  t.T  1 1! ~i'  )-> - i.n.  at 
til'-  tM.'  .  an  '  n  ii'.ai  r  \.  ii,  i|  t'p'  111.1-1  ii\  el-,  iir.-i  ■  -'.  u  a- 
lir.ni:!:t  l" '!  \^  ir.l  ii'.  ;;  la  l.  '.:  si.  !  i.iiiit  !.\  :ii'a.  (..!.(  '.a  w - 
I  'p!.  !i'V!'a  I'ii'  !''iai  11'  a  lll'illiiil  III  i:;  ;■  '!'.■  ':•".  •  ''a'  ~'ati' 
111  till'  afai\  .  It  \\  a-  -  r.i  1'.  1!  la'  I'  i.i  !i.  .  ,;  ..  ina  -  t'"ia' 
I'-.  i)  1'  '■'  ■  •  ■•  ■  '-  ••  ■•  ',  i.a  '.If.  i'ii;.  aa.i  ii'  la'W  laa.'.-  i( 
ia  '.ina.  ■■':  -...■•■. •i:,^^,  vai.;...!!.    1    !'\    |.iii!at'«. 


:<,  I  re  j  .•  .III!'  -1  a  . 
,  .•,.  I  1!. I,  ,, 


aa-- 
:  ll,r 
'ill, 

:',;i- 


ai..:   ,.    1.  ul.        !i.-  •:  a;  ,:  k- 

11, ■[..•■  .a.::y...M  i  •.^■a!t. 

(aiiiiiw  \    t  I    la-  i,;  :!  i'liiiii;i- !'    •■.  11.       \i,a.\    . 

-j  1  1!  .    '■■'.  \''. ■  -a  '•..•,  I  a      -•  ■  a   III' an  \\  ;' ' 

;l  \  .       ('■'.(',  ■\  a  |-.     iv    -  •   •   '  ■•    a    la  av  1  ■  a  ■  \- 

r    '-  .;;   -  'a:'  ,-,  '  a:   li.    :-  a  \  .     ,  'ai]!.  •■  a!   ;     ,  ■    at',    al- 

;a.  '.  'ii.-  <  a  a. a  ::.„■  r.j'  •)..     1,,..  i;.  ,;.„  r.       \,  .',     .     ,.    ,,,,,. 
aa  a!    \>.  ia  11  •.  ■  .a    aia'    ja  ■  ,     '.■■'..    \'\    a    !■  .i  la    !  a.   a  . 

'■■  ai  at  ,it  ].■  -'  ,.  i..inial  i''."a''a-i.ai.  la  w  ;a  ii  I'a  'ii!.a  (: 
.'•  li.'-  a  ai  '.  '  ■  t  -'mI!  !.(■  '  ;-  .■'ait  a  .1  ;  1,  !•.  !|.  ■  •r-,,  -a  ;. 
aa  -.  aial  r  ;.■  '-  :  la'  !  ;'-  ia  la.'  \  ■  '  \  .a  i  -i-  .  a  t',a  -,  ;,- 
■  ;  !■  :\  I  -  \  la  iaa_\  ;..  \\  ..a  '.■  ,  ii-a  .-a.-  u  iai  j.t  i- 
:    ,  ,  :  ..!;ii'  -i:  .    !  ;  ia.\  a  j.i  .^aa-'  '!  m.  mai  ii. 

1    la.;..  ,i   lla;!    ^I^.    I'llt    \^  .    a  i  1 ,  !  \ .  ■    s...kr!!  .a,  t!a-    ^aii- 
.'.  iai!  la:  ilid  la  1  .1.  ..ai  t-i  V  i'l\.       \\  la  u  C'  '.  (   iau|M,.i 


282  A    ,JOl  UN'VL    OF    TKWKLS    l-V 

alluded  to  iiini  personally,  which  he  often  did,  he  only 
shook  his  head  occasionally,  or  smiled  contemptiionsly. 
This  irritated  the  orator,  who  even  noticed  in  his  speech, 
that  the  honourable  gentleman  smiled. 

Lord  Casilercagh,  from  Ireland,  replied  to  Col.  Craw- 
ford with  much  perspicuity,  correctness;  and  ability,  and 
proved  himself  a  superior  man. 

lie  was  answered  by  Windham,  who,  with  great  fluen- 
cy and  wit,  made  the  noble  lord  blush  and  the  House 
langh.  It  had  been  urged  by  the  opposition,  that  the 
regular  army  ought  to  be  increased,  so  as  to  be  com- 
petent to  meet  die  invasion,  without  relying  upon  the  vol- 
unteers, who,  they  asserted,  could  not  be  depended  upon. 
To  this,  Lord  Castlereagh  replied,  that  the  experiment 
had  not  been  pursued  far  enough ;  they  coald  not  as  yet 
<av  it  would  not  ansvrer  ; — they  ought  to  try  the  volunteer 
system  longer. 

Windham  retorted,  that  the  noble  lord's  argument  was 
like  that  of  the  apothecary,  who,  Avhen  his  patients  came 
and  complained  that  his  quack  medicine  did  no  good,  us- 
ed to  tell  them — try  it  (tgciin!  trij  it  again  ! 

Althctugh  Mr.  Pitt  remained  silent  with  respect  to  the 
motion  on  the  state  of  the  auny,  I  liad  the  pleasure  of 
hearing  this  creat  man  speak  a  few  minutes  on  a  petition 
which  lie  handed  in.  There  was  nothing  in  the  subject 
whicli  called  for  a  display  of  elo(|uence  ;  ho  made  simply 
a  stuteuK'nt  of  facts,  but  this  serv(>d  to  identify  his  voice 
and  manner,  la  his  j)erson  he  is  tail  and  sj)are ;  he  has 
small  limbs,  wiih  liU!2('  knees  an, 1  fict  ;  his  features  arc 
-liarii;  his  nosr  lame,  jioiiited,  and  tiu'iiing  uji ;  his  com- 
i)lexion  sangifnie;  his  \oice  deep-toned  and  connnandint:'. 
\-y.   N-.vc' t.  an!   n,  i  f.-t.  i!v  't\  dl  jtiodnlyS'd.   ani.l   h's    whole- 


I    -.'.I    WD.     li    '1  I    \M»     Wn     -i"[l.\N!l. 


.,n-v,-iic,\  iim V.  iii:>l.iiu:inj  l\\>'  uaiiicl  •'\  iiiiin  ti\  in  iii- 
l::!i:i-.  i-.  v\  in  u  In-   ii>fs  tii    ^p'Miv.  I;iil  i>l    ^u  jn:  i.u  il  v    ,ui'' 

iMlis;  ;,iil,     i;i'_-r;l(\.         I    li.ll     ;i     ili>tlll.'l    \\i\S    i.|     li.:)i     \\<\-     -|\ 

ii'iir-,  ii:iiiir_'  wlii'-h  CiiH-  ]'.■■■  >,il  iiiic'(  (is-  li.'I.nc  U;''.  Hi-. 
.in  ^-  \s  .1^  a  lilin'  r.iai  \ulli  i!i<'I  il!i'-  iiiiMmK.  a  wli.l'-  \(^t, 
li!  i<!v  -  iiiii  iin  i-rli  ■-.  ani  Willi'  ^iik  ^^lM■klll_f^.  Willi  laiji' 
li'i'  k'.i  >  ill  hi-  -li;(  >.  Hi-  !:  iir  \\a>  pnw  .in.- 1.  Notuiih- 
-tainli:;'.'  ill"  \  ail'ii.r  nl'  t  iir  t 'piMoi!  !■  ai.  iiiii  liii-ii  lia'.inL,' 
!'■  '  ii  -(>  l":i:  arc  II  n],  Mill  rl  i,i  In.  \  Dicr.  \\  In  a;  h-  i .  i.e.  th." 
il  'li-i'  li.  caiin  Ml  ijMi't.  thai  a  win-jMi  iiin  lit  li  ivr  1m  in 
!:'■  iiii  liMiii  ;(ij\  piit.  Ill'  wa-  \<TS  li'  iiii' a  all-,  -^i  liijt  ii"! 
a  waail   sva-l'isi:   -lill  rii'ijs   \\a>  iii-  iimvt    viiakiii_'  (  hai- 

htrl'Mic. 

Mr.  l"o\  \\a>  aN'i  [inaait.  liis  |iii-<i>ii  i>  vn  \  In-is. 
Ill-;  Urc!^  is  ^Inal.  —  iiis  lir  aii  Ih'm'.  idiiiv!,  am!  iimw  (|1|;;.; 
■jit  \. —  lli^  r'ip-t  I-  liiaia  i  aiiil  )  a  '  wiii  ii'  ill .  aal  l.i>  \if[\ 
aii'l  iiiiiiis  \  i-t  aiiil  cajMiit  1,1,  <\>  11  l^r  laii.liiiil.  Ili> 
rMinplfXhai  i-  ilaik. —  hi-.  I' at  .its  |  n  'r.—  .-.i  ,  iikaa  <  |..-( 
!■  .J' ih'  r,  aU'i  III  uiKaiinniiiM  ^\/.'\  ana  \\\^  \^  h..'.'  .aa"  aiaau  n 
jiM  u!iai .  ii..li!«'.  ami  rniiiaiaii  iiii  .  II.-  h.. a  w  a^  imi  pi  .\\ 
.!'  if'ii  :  — h''  \i.  ui'r  a  h!a'-  (..,ii.  \'. /.Ii  iia:i  t  a--ni:'a  c  unari 
ilir...  aial  \>  hill'  -ilk  -I'likiii',-. 

I  -aw  hail  ill  iinai'  !'■  'U-  -nii:.i .'  :;■-,  !■,  .'  lii'  -<  .  ini.i  \  ri  v 
;;:i'' i-\ .  aii'i  ('!i  tiij«  "1  hi-  [.I.hik,  ii\  laip-;  h.  w.ih.iii 
.I'l'.al  — \sa  nt  I  ail  a:i'  I  ca  ii  a  ■  in  — ■,'.  .  at  i;  ji  miJi  i\  aial  iIuw  a, 
in.)  \s  1-  ahip.-i  1  aai  lanlls  in  r."  1.  ii.  I|.-  -(."k''  .t  1.  '.s 
i.ai  ■;'•  -  .  .11  1 1  jii  I  111.  ill  l!  .an  a  [n  i  -  ..  i..r  a  !-■  .ia  ■  1  ..i  li  •  lai.  I 
•'a  !',  >  I  ■  ai.  Ill-  I  ■  mai  i-.  -  w  .a  c  \  .  i  \  [ ..; ;  a,<ail  I  >  tia'  (  .i-i  ; 
'■1-  i.M'.a-a-  li..\\!.;_a  ia-\.,;il  m  ■..a.  hiil  wnh.ul  lla- 
•  '/•  u'w  an!  ini;  n  -as.  ai  --  t  1  I'a;.  Ih-  -;..  >a  h  ,i,k  a 
.  .  .1-  it'  "..lia:  up  hah  .lai  h>  li-;-  w  ru-  .  lea.  h'  .| 
-•■;•.     in-,  ■aaa  a-.  :   ;•■  •  '.:[-.       Tia'    ..    :  a     'a.'  - 


284  A    JOL'RNAL    OF    TSAVF.LS    15 

both  of  him  and  Mr.  Pitt  are  very  correct,  with  the  'jsuul 
allowance  for  the  extravagance  of  this  kind  of  prints;. 

Sheridan,  so  celebrated  for  his  speech  at  the  tiial  of 
Warren  Hastings,  was  in  the  house,  and  s])oke  on  a  ques- 
tion connected  with  the  whale  fishery,  ilis  ]anguaL''e  flows 
with  great  facility. 

^Vhile  present  within  tlicse  walls,  wiiich  have  iieard  so 
often  the  thunder  of  the  elder  Pitt  and  of  P>urke,  I  associa- 
ted the  memory  of  these  great  men  wiih  the  very  seats 
and  pannels,  and  it  was  no  unnatural  en!j)]o\'mcnt  for  an 
\raerican  to  revert  to  that  period  when,  in  this  ];lace, 
were  voted  tlie  suj)plies  for  those  armit  s,  which  javaged 
our  countr}'.  and  wlien,  on  this  l^ior.  a  general  of  one  of 
iliose  sirniics  made  his  elo>[;:eiU  defence  for  surrendering 
liis  swnrJ  to  rehch.* 

I'l'.e  general  appearance  of  the  House  was  vfrv  similar 
to  that  of  Vmerican  legishitive  assemblies.  They  have  a 
custor,!  of  crying  out  hear  !  h.ear  !  when  any  thing  is  said 
to  wliich  th.ey  wish  to  call  the  attention  of  the  House  : 
sometimes  this  word  is  vociferated  fiom  so  many  at  once 
as  entirely  to  chown  tlie  orator's  ve.ice. 

The  i^'^peaker  takes  the  opinion  of  the  House  in  tliis 
I'onn — '•'  as  m-uiy  a.s  are  of  this  opinion  say  aye  !"' — "  con- 
trary oifmions  say  no!" — and  llien  the  resn.lt  is  declai'cd 
thus  :  '-'  »he  aves  have  it.  or  ihe  noes  have  it,''  according 
as  one  or  tlie  other  party  prevails.  The  niendjers  all 
were.- their  hats.  Th.ey  Iiave  no  pay  for  their  aftenchmce; 
the  ii'.duceniee.t  is  d-rived  from  ti!-'  honor  and  the  in- 
fluence wliich    a  sciit  \:i   Parliament  daift'i-s.      Ft    follows 

'  Gcner.;!  liurgoyne. 


k  \    .i    \Ml.     H...1.1    \\I)     AM)     -^t'lll    \S|I.  .--, 


I':;-    .^..     iki  r  ulKri"-   til-'   ■, ill.  Ill-   l"   Ih'   I  l'-;u.-.i.  Ii\    -  l\- 

•'  -!  f  iii'.'i'i  s   \^  itii'ii.iw  '  ^lil^  lir   i!U' r>  \\  il!i  ;i  \  I  I  •/ 

I  '  ;i  N  "ii  '■.  .iiii|  lli>  III--!  t':iii»  I  In  ,ii  il  ilif  iii;niil.i!i-  1  w  ,is 
(i>|i  'M-.i  t.i  iilir\  i_  ill  ;.MilI\.  I'liit  1  w  ,is  ^uiiMi-ii!  ill  -i-r 
w  ;iii  w  M.'.!  II,'  ii;ii  11  :ii''  ii  \\  ;i'  i<'ri'i\  I'l!.  S'>ii,i  liiin  ^  ii  w  ,is 
:  ■:  a'.x  .1)  -i'l  .:i!il.il,  :i'iii  lur  >[  .•  i  t  ili  i|-  ritaim  J  l!:i  ii  v'  at-. 
.    '  1  !:!■  \  '.•.  ■  I  '■  ni\  ■  I   1  !<■  ii-'^i  till  It  w  a-  \ilii:iii  ii;i  >    n  |ii   it- 

r     .        \\  ■■    w  c  |i'  lir!!,!  II   ii;it     1  Mllinliri    ul     tilll'  -    lll  lili'  ri      I-'' 

I  'i  i  h''  '  .1  'I'ti  .  ii  II'  1  ;i  n  as  al\\  I  \  -  cMmiii  '  \  iiii|i!'  <>  t  u( , 
Itii'ii.-i  '!;'■  •:  ,:r-  ,i;i  ■  ■  !■  "i  -  h  aiiiii;/  to  tiii'  '_-tll>-r\  \wr<- 
\  '  I  ■'    i  .  .  I    \  ■    !•  at   i-ii:itr-l    iin  ai  laliU    i  ii-a'  'i    l"r 

''       •  ii'iiin  :.!  till'  ili'i'l  -   W  rir  dpi  iir.i. 

1  ,  ::■  I  -ii'  •:i;s  iiii'l'  I    lIn-    -aiii"'  i  •  ^  li  u  i;!i    i  ir' 

Jl'"''  •  ,':!   il'-.  a;i'l     |i|i\ali'     j)a--a-i  ^     lia.Hl".'     n'.) 

tin  I  a.  "la  .  i  a  ' .  ,'i  ah  t  ha  I  in  Mil  n  I'-  ■  if ''U  !■  ti,  i-  In  1  i  li  .  -Ii 
t'a  'ii-'  ' '. '  -.  ^'laii-  lil  IIP'  iiii'IiiIh  I-  pri  ill'  liii--i-  |.  lairjiii.- 
,  '..'■   lail     .in    1. 1     tin-    i  l'iii-f,  alhi     aH'  ntlril   I'Miiiil 

la  '  '■.  ■  ;  a  1  1  ail"!  ta'ali  <llppi  I  ,  \i  li'lr  pall  a 'I  -  an-  -pi  ini- 
11.  ;  a>  ■!  'a  1  I'l'  :a  \  nil.  In  (  nii\  nir.-  lli.  i-i-  v.  ii.i  ai.-  imaf 
.  •   .       '  .1  "i!.  1    alhl   1)1  rl  v|i  al,-.  liiaii   !i\    ll.i    cli  iiiii-  !•■ 

I'l'Mjii.  Ill  .  .  Il  \\.i  .  laiw  liilwii  a  in'ailii  ail  ala!  lilir  ii'rl.'i-k 
III  till'  ha  >1  nil!  ■   :-   -  I  ill    ,'al  I'M''  .'  II'  I   !i  ill  .Ui  :i  a  i  -ji  '>  i  li  :ia'  a  \  :- 

|i  III  liiaa  ir/n-.  all'  I  I  !i -1111.1  tn  ■.  '  I  .i  ''i:p  n!  i'M  :  m'l  i.l!.i\\ 
inj  lii.i!     Pa    rnll'.  ■•   I  ip.ali-   w  1  :  ■■  I  '  -•  I  \  1  'I    l^i     tia     la.  ai'n  1  • 
,l1..!ii  .    I    \^    ,,■_■•  I'll"    jl.l.i  laa  ,  '.'.  i'l  a    1    \i  .;  -  -  r .  , ; .  i  n     i    li  ,    aa  I    la- 
•  jiiii  \   \\  la  111'  I    1  \\  a-  a  n.'iiii''  I  i  'I   i'.ii  I;  i  iia  at .       .\  -  I  r.'iii  ■ 

-  1,1     '     '       '    ■    ' 


286  A    JOinXAJu    OK    TRAVELS    IN 

not  answer  in  the  alTirmative,  I  was  obliged  to  tnke  nij, 
tea  in  the  lobby. 

I  walked  home  alone  wilhout  uiecting  any  adventure, 
and  indeed;  if  I  may  judge  from  my  own  observation  dur- 
ing the  sliort  period  that  I  have  been  here,  London  is  as 
^afe  by  night  as  a  a  illage. 

i  HE  WEATIIKR  AND  WiNDS. 

June  28. — Tiie  fickleness  of  the  weather  in  this  island  is 
proverijial.  It  is  a  standing  topic  of  complaint  with  all 
valetudinarians,  and  is  a  considerable  inconvenience  to 
tiiose  who  are  well.  1  was  caught  yesterday  in  a  shower, 
.1.  mile  from  home,  without  an  umbn  Ua,  and  in  a  street 
where  there  were  no  hackucy  coaches ;  before  I  could 
leach  one  of  the  stands  for  coaches  they  were  all  engaged, 
and  I  was  thoroucldy  wet. 

The  niunber  of  hackney  coaches  In  London  is  ver\ 
>.;reat.  They  are  strictly  regulated  by  law,  and  it  is  gen- 
'•raliy  not  difficult  to  obtain  a  coach,  but  when  a  haul 
>!iov\  er  comes  on,  they  arc  often  put  in  requisition  so  s:id. 
dculy,  that  it  is  impossible  to  procure  one. 

In  tills  countr}'  it  is  not  wise  to  go  far  from  hunie  \villi» 
out  an  unil)rella  ;  fur  showers  and  sunshine  tread  so  rapid- 
ly in  each  others  steps,  that  the  most  flatterini:  aspect  of 
the  skies  cannot  be  trusted.  As  1  was  going  to  the  par- 
liament house  to-day,  J  was  overtaken  by  a  violent  tem- 
pevst,  altended  witli  tinmder,  liLdiJnhiL',  rain  and  hail; 
some  of  tin:  hail  stones  wcref)f  fhe  >izc  of  a  laiyc  hazlenut. 
and  f;jr  a  few  minutes  they  completely  cover<'(l  tlie  slrecN  : 
the  rain  di.srt:nd!."d  in  iorrciits,  and  the  water  dehiged  tlic 
stierts.   o\^( f'uwii'-  *'?;;  sidi-   u-a'ka   !:■  inai'v  Dhu'^^.      ! 


N.-l    \M>.    Ili->M  AM)     AM)     *<(<r\\\l>. 


(i.('K  ii  Iii/f  III  a  v|io[)  till  III''  ^ii'iiii  \\;t^  I'MT.  aim  ilnii  1 1- 
s:;i:i'    1  m\    s\  ilk. 

ir  1  ;ii:i\   I.I'  allnu.-'i    t(.    i'i<L'i'  tV.ini  >.m  liiil!-  .  \[n  il.  iic(\ 

f   s'ii'mIm    tliihlv   that   \:)W    ll.l'l    Imcii   a   'jn,,A   i!r,.l    111    pc.  \isll 

(a>iii,.!aiiiin_;  u  illi  h-jm  ri  \u  iai^li-li  u  .  ,it!i,  r.  all  1 l  li  tti'' 

'  iiiiia'a'.  ii  !•>  til!''.  In  m'IV  I  liair^'  a!il.-  ;  liiit  all  iliaiati  -  an- 
ill  kli'.  aiiil  ;li  ii  ul  N.  \\  1  .iijlainl  l^  ciaMinU  v.)  in  ;iii  i mi- 
la  lit  til  'J!  I  r.  'I  111  in-iii  ir  ^il  nil  ion  nl  111  itaiii  im  li'mlu  ciui- 
:ii;iil!.v  In  ilir  llililaliiiitv  lI  1  lirir  wfat I !i  T  rv|ii  cIhII^  tci 
i  II  III  ji  ^  ir.  an  \\i  \  in  ,li  \  .  I  ml  I  in'  ti  ;i!i-l!-nii>  If  an  I:  rat  lo 
'  >'■!  ;ii  !•  'iV  lai  iinar.-.  a-,  ^inki'-n  aiiij  :  1 1  .'t  a^  in  "Si  w  -I  aii^- 
ani.an.lit  ni.n  III'  iImiiIiIi  ,1  \^  ill  till  1-  il:l^  r'liniat''  i>  nut 
n'l  iIh-  ulm!.'  lii-tii  r  a  i.ii  ii  i  In  liuiaan  cniiirdit  a'r!  j.ai- 
■/.■■vi;\  than  mil-,  in  \\!ilrli  \\i  air  II  ii'i  1  \s  Itli  --'lii  h'H'^ 
i:\tri  Kiov  (,r  lirai  ami  cnl'i. 

Ii    1-    I'liM  ixi'il  til  It    \iiiii:ran-    w  Im   sr'tli'    iii     lar-'in.! 

In    I'li-    ..'I'llnii' ni'    iii'n,    ii'M_\   I'M  .  !'i  i:l  1,1  alili  aii.l  lisr 

'  '    '       '<•  ;  n!J  ,1^1  .       1 1.iir.-  i;   iia-  III-'  ii  i  mna  i  ki'.  I .  llial  tlic 

.;'  -!    1  ni  Miiaiimi    In;     |:r,iltli    ami    Inp  ■   hi'    is  lam    w  itii  an 

A  nil  ;  i'.ill     l.a^is     ,i;..i     :i;i       Ln.llsli      -'IjH  ; -^l  ;  i)(  ii;.r.  'I  lir 

!>■  laki:.  :  n'i!  nl  ila-  \  n  n  ri'';.  ii  w  :r.  in  l"7'-  'ami'lit  cnii- 
;iifr;i'ak'  iiiiiiiiiiT-  nf  \  nn  rii  .in  l..\  aii  a-  tn  I  a-jkiiai.  aial 
-  Mill'  ni  il,.  ai  1 1  niaiia  i  :'  Mi  i  :!.'■]  i  nr  ai.'l  ^t  ill  v  n  ■,  |\  ,•. 
\  nu  iii-.-as;ni!:i!!\-  iia  ■  t  tla  ni  in  I .'  .iai.  '.i  ami  ni.i-I  nl  lli'  in 
1  .Milir"!  till'  tnii'i  ni'  ill;-  i.a^i  r\  .iii'ia. 

<  hi   tin-     '     a.   I    Iniin  I    i'   -.i    ■■■.'  1.    tii:l    wiri.'     wiilii,'    ,;! 
Iln;.'|.'    Wll  il    U  nil!.    'A  ~    .ll|i|    ilnni-     sii:;!  .    I      \..  :l^     (  .    11!  1  I.  Ill  ,|    tn 

jiul  nil  a  I  ii  1 1.  ilia  I  I  inilii  s.  aii'l  lin.ilK  In  \v  I  a[i  in  v  -.  1 1  in 
llilllH'!.  'I'lia  l|i\t  i!.l\  I  \'..l>  ni'l!".  .1  In  imI!  Inr  a  il.r.  -- 
'I  ills  Is  !i.  i\\  I  \  '  I .  I  I  1 1  sM  nil',  an  n  nrnni  111  111  (Ms. '.  Ill'' 
liaini.'i'',  n|  tills  rjanili'.  siiiii'iM  n.'i.'i'.  c  ail  i  i' ml  -  \i;\ 
niMiai  i.j  11^  liiir  \i-;,  I  alinn.      'I  in'  ''n  i  a  is    m  iiiliim-  aiiH 


2S8  A   JOURNAL    OF   TRAVELS   IN" 

pure  that  the  eye  delights  to  dwell  upon  it.  If  the  cli- 
mate of  this  island  be  contrasted  with  that  of  the  neigh- 
bouring continent,  the  effect  of  its  insular  situation  be- 
comes most  manitest.  In  Holland  the  rivers  and  canals 
are  ice-locked  for  weeks  every  winter  :  here  it  is  a  won- 
der if  the  Thames  freezes  tolerably  firm,  once  in  half  a 
century.  I  am  very  much  struck  although  not  surprised, 
with  the  different  character  of  the  winds  here  and  with 
us  in  the  Eastern  American  States.  With  us  the  East 
and  North-east  wind  brings  clouds  and  rain,  and  in  the 
winter  snow,  and  dismal  melancholy  weather,  often  of 
Jong  continuance  :  here  these  winds  are  dry,  with  clear 
s]\.ies  and  fine  weather,  olten  of  some  endm-ance ;  here 
the  west  winds  are  what  i.he  north  and  north  eiist  are  with 
as,  and  with  us  the  west  winds  are  what  the  north  and 
north  east  winds  are  here.  These  facts  appear  to  admit 
of  an  easy  solution.  In  Britain  the  western  winds  come 
charged  with  the  vapours  of  the  great  Atlantic  Ocean  ; 
hence  they  are  sure  to  bring  cloudy  weather  and  rain. — 
Indeed  at  Liverpool,  (and  I  understood  it  to  be  a  fact 
generally,  on  the  western  side  of  the  island)  the  preva- 
lence of  westerly  winds  is  so  great  that  the  trees  in  many 
instances,  obviously  lean  to  the  east,  and  are  covered  on 
the  windward,  that  is  the  western  side,  with  moss.  On 
the  contrary,  the  east  and  north-cast  winds  arrive  in  I5rit- 
ain  after  running  over  immense  tracts  of  continent  with 
very  little  intervening  water,  they  ought  therefore  to  be 
dry  winds  and  to  bring  fair  weather.  This  reasoning  is 
all  applicable  to  America,  only  reversing  the  f;icts,  and  of 
course  the  order  of  the  conclusions,  for  the  east  and  north- 
east winds  obviously  arrive  there  after  tia\t  riing  tlic 
ocean  and  the  western  winds  after  traversing  the  land. 


■  ..  1     I'll',.:-  .1    I.'    iri:\  :I\    au',  ro'M.i  ;T 
;i.  '  111    i  -i)'.'!.-.!    ^i;i:..i,'  f  :     tin-   I.m  r- 

iii-  .'..  "'1  .  '  iv  ].:  ;m  ;;■  -  iiii.ri-  tliiii  ^iiMitu'  r  ii'Mt.  .nui 
L^i  /.■;..!;>  !■  -^.  ;i:i..  ;'  i-  \ '  i  \  ii.i  •  iirit'  .1  tiiat  tii-'  ■mii  (■|ir\ 
ii-i'>    hi.iit'i   tii.iM  .        \';'i"i:_ii    il.i-!ii'^  !■■  r;i;;:    .iif  !■-- 

.i  I'  III.  l!i-  ;■■  i-  .i!-.i  ;,i  i.ii  "!.•:!■  >  l'  I'l'i''  liii'_'iit  ^i.!>'-.  iii,i;i   i 

ilbi     lllJ.Mn'i!,     ;iili|     lihli-     ,:!i'     -MlMIl'l'     i|,r.^.     Witil     lii"-i 

l>.i'\.iiit    i;'!' \   'l.'ii!-.   ,iii'l    ill-'   >-;iiiii','    ••iiiiii;i-i    (j\    ih'  III 

»\  nil  111''   ill  ''I  I   ;i/,i!i  ,■   1    iMwji\  .  w  ii:rij  CMji--)  ;;';t''   ^^    'ill'-   ri  i'  .' 


\  ,.    \\|\  ._:,.JM){)\ 


ili    \'. 


1         \      !.T.       .      -\< 


■    I  1 ;  1  >  \  ;  1 .    1  ■  \ ;  >    \ 


-TM)  a    JOriiNAL    Ol-'    ■^iH.A\t.Lb    i.V 

t'r.e  late  Sir  William  Hamilton,  so  well  known  by  his  long 
residence  in  Italy,  and  by  the  collection  ol^  Etruscan  vases 
with  which  he  enriched  the  British  Museum.  It  was  at  Mr. 
(ircville'sthat  I  found,  myself  sometime  since,  so  awkward- 
ly situated,  ill  consequence  of  having  come  without  my  Ict- 
ler  of  introduction.  But,  1  could  not  have  fallen  into  bet- 
ter hands,  for  itlr.  Greville's  politeness  and  kindness  made 
the  thinsf  perfectly  easy. 

Mr.  Cireville  is  one  of  the  King's  Piivy  Council,  and 
s  well  known  to  the  scientific  worlil  by  his  exertions  to 
jivomote  the  study  of  mitieralogy,  in  which  department  of 
p.atural  knowledge  he  possesses  perhaps  the  best  private 
'cllectioii  in  LLurope.*  lie  informed  me  that  he  is  descen- 
tled  from  Lord  Erook,  who,  with  Lord  .^ay,  foundetl  Say- 
inook  at  the  mouth  of  Connecticut  river.  This  Lord 
Brook  was  slain  in  a  singular  manner,  at  the  battle  oi 
Litchfield  during  the  civil  wars,  by  one  t)yot,  a  dumb 
jnr.!),  who  was  remarkably  skilleil  in  sliooting.  Lord 
Brook  was  standi iig  at  a  crreat  distance  v.i.h  his  vizor 
ihrown  up  ;  I  tliink  it  was  said  that  he  was  standing  in 
the  dnor  of  a  house,  when  some  one  jiointcd  him  out  to 
])_\ot.  and  tlie  latter  aimed  with  such  fatal  accuracy,  that 
Ik;  shot  him  through  one  eye.  His  armour  is  still  siieun 
in  \\  arwici;  Casth;. 

At  Mr.  (ircville's,  among  several  jjentlemen  of  science, 
[  !iad  tiic  ])leasun,'  of  meeting  a  man  whom  I  liave  long 
contcnij'laled  v.ith  a(hn;ratioii.  J  mean  .Mr.  Watt  of 
i)irmiiigl;am,  one  of  the  gicalost  philosojiliers  oftlie})re^- 
ent  day,  tlir  ])articular  I'rleiid  and  a^sociat<■  of  l-r.  Biack. 
and  the  great  impro\ei-,  I  \v.\d  almost  said  ii;\eritor.  of  th<" 

'  .'-iii-ir;  IMr.  (inn  ;il'.;'j  dciili!.  it  lifis  hfc;   pni'cliD-Li!  hy  t'lo  Hri 


\N,I      -.Ml     -       ■  ■  1    •,  N  .' 


1..,^.         li. 


:>  ;i  \  •  Tn  r  it'ir  i,:.ni  «>i  -•  \  ■  :i!\  '■!'  n:"i-.'  .  '>'::  •■'•i  .<  .  ;'.\  <  1 1  <  r 
,11  liN  j.  •!v.i'  ;iii  i  ili''  iiii''  ;  i;i  1:!-  i.!  inv  :  -.  t  !•  \^ ..-  \  i  :  v 
,t',,i:il.-.    ;■].:  ,i!iM'   ;'i    I    i  •     •     .:'i;i.i>t    i    ;  >  .1  ',      •;    i.'i)'r    '•:. 

,  ,'1  \   vq'i  i-.-i.  u  li>';i.'  I    :;   ■.>  ■        ;.:!,,•  1  :!       \  .  1  ';•  ..     •■ .  V  .  !.: 
'.■!  \  .  .iilI'ijiMlii  -.  nr  :..  ■    .         \  :■,>';  ^ 

ili^Ii'  .:  111'!!  iv  :i;r!  !!;••  I.;  •-!  ,.';ii,i::!.-  ;.i;(!  j-'l '■■■■''■    ■ 

I  w  ;i  .  !'•;...- ~i' A-  li!,!!  ill  111'  ■  ':i';iM  i'"*   [•  ■>-   ,  '     -  •  .i,;!\     ■;■. 

.-I  :ii;.\  .      1  )i .    i  ■•'.! ..-'  III.  ,^.':li  T  ■  I  !  I  i\ '  !>  : 

'  ^-  lip  .  ■■. 

W  K  i.fini.-.i  II;'..  !.n-i,i..i!  ..n  N.i.:.  :in,l    Mr.  V  ..::.  v 
;ir;  !'':ii  III  il  in',  \  it  \\  -  ill  \  i-itiii'..  I.n  :!  ';i'',  \v  ,'^  ■:■  ■•  ■;  >  ii'"i_ii 
■  I   .;,ri-.  t  •i!\   .av-vti'  '11  I'l  :i  '  ii;:iliii-  .'1    ii  •  ■  ,    ,  ,     i  . 

ii   .,i, :'■!■>  ill    j.::!  t-    i'\    ill'-  k'!iL:i;.i:ii  :      ;;-     \',        ,    .  .  '.  . 

'  ill  ■  li, .'  Il  t  III-  I  ii\  iri  iiiv.  ;ni  I  l!i  •  III'  1 1    1 1  '■••111   ~'.  V    t  ■  -   ■  !   \\  I  •  '- 

:ii:,-i    I.    1:.'  I'  'I:!;'-'!  'i;it  ^  nil'-  I'l    I'l''    '■'■ma; '.-.:'i.!f  <  .  >t'.    '  - 

',  '  I     i  1  I .  ■ '  I    '.  'II  1 1  I  ~  1 1 1 1  •  1 1  r  .  1 1 ;  I  ■  •.\  '  ■  i  I ' :  i  I :  --  11  .11  ;    .•"  1  i  ■■■.;:•'.  i . 

I    >    !        '1  I"  iM-i!  I"  I'-  ini  iK'.ii    ii:'  I    l!i,il    -"  l.i'  _  ■■  .1  I  .iM  ". 

W.  -:i,.:  .-1'  I     i^    I,'  '.'.!\    !r,::i:     i',  '    '■'!  II   \"n\^  ilk"  ,1  '•>•!;,. 

:  I   I  ■    >  '  ! ',     IT:'    !■■■..  1 :  :      i ' .  •      ■         -    -  - '  1    ■     I :  I     !  j '  ■     n  i ' .  i '  '  , 

'  • !     :  1 1 1 .     all  .  -     ' 

•  ■■'     '.    ',  I  ■  ''"' ■    '  ■  '.^  ■"■  ■  '  ''•'■ 

\-  l.      .  •     I     ,\       :    I,   .  ^',"1..    ''1  \\  '     ;:;,■     -  "     :  .  >I   '. 


T  ;-in  :     h  ,'    l'\-,    \ 


il  '  ^'-i  ,il;,.;i. 
i.    .Ill  *   -  ,       ' 


29c2,  A    JOr-RXAL    01"    TRAVKL*    fcV 

look  almost  like  changeable  silk.  Opulent  faiiiilies  iiavc 
diirereiU  horses  fur  iiii^lit  service  and  h.ard  work,  and 
stormy  weather,  these  beauclAil  animals  being  kej)t  as  a 
meie  pav/.'ant,  and  inainta.ined  in  luxury  and  indolence. 

S!P.  JOSEPH   BANKS'  CO.N\  EKSATIO.NK. 

i  iiere  are  a  number  oi'  lltei-ary  assendilies  in  London, 
tor  the  piirjjose  of  conversation,  where  a  stranger  has  a 
bitter  (spporiiuity  thui!  he  can  enjoy  in  any  other  wav,  of 
-eeiiiSj  I'le  distliignished  men  of  the  metropolis,  and  oi' 
formini;  <ui  orriiir.ate  ol'  tl;e  English  character  in  its  most 
iatpiroVv\l,  iiiteliigent,  and  j)uris!ied  form.  The  most  dis- 
tiii'^aished  oi'tiiese  meetings  is  held  at  Sir  .Toseiih  iJanks"-. 
and  i  fonnd  th:n  tlic  gen'leijiei  witli  whom  1  was  walking. 
we.egoingr  to  attend  it.  M'hen  Mr.  Watt  incjnired  wheth- 
er I  had  been  introduced  at  this  meeting,  I  informed  him 
ihal  I  had  supposed  inys('if  precluded  irom  calling  on  Sir 
Joseph  i'anks,  as  i  liad  left  a  letter  of  introduction  with 
my  card,  on  my  hrst  arrival  in  London,  and  had  never 
heard  an\'  thing  I'ariiier  on  the  subject.  He  assured  me 
that  it  would  be  perfectly  in  oriler  to  call  again,  as  Sir  Jo- 
>e!)h,  in  conse()ueiu-e  of  the  numerous  demands  on  his 
lime,  w:!s,  !)v  liie  universal  consent  of  societ\',  excused 
iViMii  tlie  c',i!r.!-:on  obligations  of  ei\il;ty  with  resjiect  to 
retiii'uing  vi:>i(s  and  s*  iuling  invitations,  and  v\cv\  stranger 
will)  had  been  iiitrod:;,_ed  to  him,  was  expected  to  cal!  agaiii 
.is  a  mailer  of  course,  i  luui  learned  t!ie  same  tliing,  a 
da}'  or  two  before,  iVom  Mr.  (ireville,  and  had  acciden- 
iall\-  iieard  tliat  inquiry  had  been  made  by  Sir  .Joseph 
whetlu'r  (  had  ealk'd.  I  was  tlicj-efove  vi;ry  happy  to  j)ni 
myself  midi  r  Mr.  Wa;i'>  j);itro!iage.  and  tit  a((;e[)t  tlu-  ot- 
'"i  ]■  V.  Inch  hi-  kiiv,!l\-  in^id"  to  iulrofhiee  me. 


jN'.l    \\!),    Mnl.I.VM)      \M)     ^l  iM  I    WD.  J.J- 

^|■.  I.  ii-jiti.'ii  u  ;i^  -^'-ic;i  ;i>  |m  111  ik>'  111'  I"  !.  t  ill.'!  :!:, 
!.ii>i;i'..i'  I;  I'l  iioi  lii-cii  --,)ii:ii-|-  curi  i  rt.'il.  ,;iiil  i\i  v\  fWili.'i- 
1  --'ii-iil  \\,i^  r>'i'ri\r,i  'i\    till'  (■omt'•lnl^  lu'li  i\ioiir  •■;  tlii^ 

.■■  \i  '>;.!!'ii    111.11!. 

>ii  ,'.'^rj.!i  Il.ril.s  is  vciju'j  tiuvanl  <.M  .1"  :  li''  i-  ii'  '■ 
;i!|1h-I.-,1  u  :'!i  lii.-  ■  ■  i|t.  ;:;•.!  \\'i\\\  tiiis  r,i;i-.r,  is  v..  1  :,,.■  it  , 
lii\'.  ,)!'>  >i.i  i:,in_'.  \s  iili  III--  ;ii.l  Ml'  ,1  -I  ilV.  I!i>  li'-ail  i-  \\<  :- 
!■  i-'!\'  w 'lit'-,  li' >  |"-:-'i'i  t..'l;';ii!  1  ;;  ;i-,  ;iii'!  lii<  v,  li..'.'  ,•^-- 
;)■  >-  ;  r  (  .  '  ,  .  iin  '  til'  i-i--!i  ii.'l  !  III!  I  cm;!  iii  iii;:"  .-- 
hi  <>;  i!i('  iI- :  -,  il  >ii  •,  I  ■!■,■,  ill  I  i 

'     -i;iN,       ';'■•'     I-.         /iNti.i_;ii>';.  ,;     |\     Tc;i\i';:lil     /.'.■'"!- 

•\'"V-';i-     '■<     |i'-",".i'"    Ii;.'     r  l;|s.'    •    I     s  -;.   ,'r,',     I      .."•i;i!!\     :;( 

■   ,   I-  .i|   li.ilil       ■  '   .      ■  ,'  .        .:  ■ 

'i\    '"'  '■'■.:  •'."■.i  c-.-i.   I-'  t.    .1    !J',ii  111'   111'  1!  ■'■<•.:  i-\  .  1    1 !'.  -'■  !■;  >  '- 

!'''!ni'  M'  ,!ii,,;    ■'-.      W  .■  ;,.,:■:  !    >"|-  .',;,    ■,'•<  in  1;' ,    li!);,  r' 

'   '  ;  ii'.\  t!  ' '!  I  ill'  '.;    1  ili.  I"  ''  ,1 11  !  I'.s.  ::;i.l   [■'  '\- 

-   ■;   l:'  ■  -     I  "     I      'I     i-MI.        'I'l"-'      (••   i.-i''   ,'•■    i,i,     I-     ',:  I.     ,111.' 

!':     N     ■'.■■■:'    i    ll"i     '■-'...K'-ir     t\r      Ml.'.'    i    M.;„-;r.         M  ,-.     \\..!I 

'^  I-  >"  1  ■  :ii  I'v''  ;ii--  •->i--\   i:i  I'i-  ;,>-,!•  r.:\  .'".    iii- 

...    ;  u'l  ,,1    !'„'    :j.-n!l.'.','        ■.;'  !   !:     ' 


I .  I     \  ~  .  1 1 : 1        •  .        ■  1    '  '■     -  i '  1 1 1 1 "',,;.  I  \     !  I  •     '    ,  ~    I ,     I  ;  . 

!,i:i;-.  i;     \  '  ;\    ir'M'li.  ,:ii.;    !i:i  <   ■  ■ '  \  Ch   r  ;  "   W  "l"! '  !   ..  II  '  \  '  >  !  i. -i 
•'l.ij.  '.I    i  in       ,    ■   ,   ', 

Ti,--  '     '  .•'■     :iiii-i|   1':  >■>     :-■     lii.-     •  '"     I'  .■  ' 

'I'lM  \  I    '  -  ^.  '    W  '    ,  I       'A   ■  'M    -11     !i\      il    ,,1. 

A;:;  :•   A  '  .      ,     ii  (..i;.    i-i  .  !    :;,;> 

<-  ■  I  j  1  ■  1  ;   ■ ;  ■    \  .    I  ■ '  •   ; ;  I  ' :  I     ;,!.■•'•■    i  ■      ■  ■    '    ;  ■      .  i   .  - ' .    1 1  >  ,  1 1  i  .  .  _ , , 
i  lii.i:;    NI  <]i':-  l!'-iiii.  I.       1 1''>  !i    iiiri'i^  -n"  -    '   •  ■    '  v  mi-  'I. 
;i!(  i  ^"  '11.!' I  :i.i'i  ■.''■.■■!•  ,  'ii.il   111'  III,':,'      '  '  '  'I    I   ~ii  ■'  :'  1    I 
•;  '■  I,  i.        Ill      in    ':    '   '     :''     :     iIhI'a  iliisVni'.i;  .      ' 


'•ilM  A    .T(>i;r,\AL    OF    Tf-AVELS    IN 

the  ImcucIi  to  make  tiioir  lausjuapf  tlse  pollie  tongue  i>f 
iiliii'ope,  the  English  uould  uhiinately  become  the  mosi 
prevalent  hmgiiage  iii  the  world.  This  lie  inferred  front 
the  imntense  countries  in  Asia  and  America  which  were 
ah'cady  settled  or  fast  settling  with  English  people.  W'hile 
conversing  oji  this  sul)iecl,  he  uttered  the  followino-  extra- 
ordinary sentiment,  lie  said,  that  the  AinericanH  had 
h'lproved  the  English  languaire,  hij  the  intrudiatlon  of 
some  ivords  and  phrases  verij  cnergilie  and  eonch'C,  in- 
stead of  dijjuse  circuialociitloti.  To  jny  remark  that  liis 
sentiments  vvere  niueli  more  favorable  to  us  than  those  of 
th.e  Lnglisli  reviewers,  he  replied  that  they  were  not  al- 
ways the  m(-st  candid  men. 

Among  other  distinguished  men  wlio  were  present,  was 
Dr.  v\'(.!la,- ton,  a  cliemical  pliilosc.iiher  of  ei.nnence,  and 
iSecietary  of  the  Royal  Society  ;  J)r.  Tooke,  tl:e  historian 
of  Catharine  of  llussia;  ?vlr.  Cavendish,  who  has  done  as 
i\i\\':\\  towards  estal;'lishin<j  tlie  modern  chemistry  as  any 
iiian  livin:ir;  Dalryn^ple,  the  marine  geographer  ;  \\  ind- 
ha.p.!.  lie  Fariiainentary  oi'ator;  and  Lord  Macartney,  fa- 
n!r-;is  \:)Y  Iii,--  cnih'is'}  tvi  Chiiia. 

!'>csi;'e  these  there  were  m;tny  otliers  amotig  tliose  who 
have  (hslin-'uished  themsehes  in  srioite,  politics,  or  lite- 
ratMre,  am!  v-liom  it  was  '.iratliyinL'"  to  a  stranger  to  see. 

In  this  ;;sse;nii!y  ii.e'  mvi^t  ;,:ei'i""rt  case  (if  inanners  pre- 
vaik'd  :  iliere  uas  aiMH'renuHiy  of  any  kind.  They  came 
;j.n<l  d'p;rli:d  when  liny  ptrused,  williont  (re-lnrhiiiL'' any 
In-idy,  ;ind  those  pr-",;  nt  sat  er  s{v>0'!,  or  walked  or  read, 
\:v  cc^nvi'ised  or  )t'iiK;in':d  siU'i;!,  ;•;  j,!caMn-e.  Eating  and 
drinkini:  hiinicd  no  part  <)f  the  eHtcMiiinuient,  nor  was  an\ 
iliiifj  pro\idt'J  for  this  piirp'-e. 


\i.l.\M>,     ll'Ml   AM)     AM>     -..    II.  \N! 


'l', 


il.iiil^^,  '-   i!  lii)'  !i_\  ;.!  lui.iki  I-!   il  ir>  !■";>.■  K  in  i.".-lcrk. 

.11'. i    I.I     li.  'jll'  III     ill^    !l')',!r\    .l!l'i    MiU-t  MM!    ,it    .i;i'.     tillir   \f- 

;■>■•>  I  li'.;!  li'iriiii!  '.  <>  ■ '.■^r':^  i'.  ^!.  i\.iA  ii,i\  In  tii,> 
v\  ■  I  iv  i'N<'  jil  >iiiii!.i\  .  1  :i  ti!  iii,!';!i  ■>  -  ;i\  ..'i  111  \  -i-h fl 
lii''  |n  is  ilf::r  ..i  ih-'  lili:  ;•:  _\    li  n  jM";''i  v.  .I'llinMuii  I   :ii'i\   ;i"; 

;,i:i!.l|i-    lll.!l\i-    -II    IMM'Ml    U>i'     111     l.li-    lli".l!s!,l-!»    .!>    ,1     I    I'MU'll 

1   A,  !iM   i-  -.irl  1"  lr.\>'  .!mM'  . 

I'lii-  milt.  Ims'imu  ll'ii  iV.'Mi  i!m  •jiiiilui'n.i'  ill  1  r.iij  ■•. 
.  111.!  ,\i  ■■<  -^  .i\  ^11  .li'-i  jiii  r.  im!%>'.  !i;i  111.;  i'i.ii  lilnr.il 
I  Ti  jiii.iii  \s  iiiiii  1-  !si;i  i\'.  a  111  I  \<  .1  .;i'i'  I  ./.I'  lir-  Ih  m,-.i'.  1 1  i\  - 
ilij  ii;-.  ;rr-t...  ill  |';:!l  ,i  pilliin  hi  r:l!^t,l^|  \\;i-  rcti's  f\(>rv 
iM"iii.ii:.  ••;  wliiiii  .'^11  Jii-i|ili  \\.i-  ,i!\\,i\-  li:i|)ii\  111  st^* 
iil>  Ui.  I1.I-.  ll  ■  rii.i-!;  Ui'.l  till'  ill\  ll.ltiiUi  ill  llli'  lUii-l  liirial 
.Ml.]  r\!i  n-i\i'  iMi-i'.  ;iiiil  ;i'  li!;!iy  Iim'v  i!|i  in-  In. .ml  tln'ii' 
r..i-  'm;i  iiir  ,!  .1  i:,i\ .  .uhI  c:iiiir  i.i  Im'm'^m-i  i  >  jmI.ii  I\  .  till 
'III'  -1\-  l.ii.K-  ;  ;.ii  1!)'  j.iiiii'j  -III  IL'-  wl'  till'  -i'!\.iMi-  i.uiiilil 
j.iiii  lii.il  ill  I '.iijl.iii.l.  .1-  Will  a-  111  1  iMiH'i'.  mill''  i-  onm 
'^.iiii  ill. Ill  I-  i."i  .mi.* 

>!i  .1.-1  j.ii  il.ii'.  "  i,'  :  ■-  i-  \  •  ;\  c  v|i  ii-i\i  .  ;" .,  I  iirl\  ,iir 
(..!.■.  II!  1  i'-  !!•  '  '  %  I  •  ~  .!i'  .!  h's  -:li  ,11  1  -mi-  \\  i,  '  li,iM'  !-i  I  ti 
|.; .  .;ii  I  i\    i',:: . .    i;.  I  .1.       >'r  .lo-i  ,iii    ii\  i  -   in     11    lii''    il'ji'ilN 

I.I    -I   ';.  ;  r  ■  ■.     i   .      ,     '  -   ..     li:  ilj;  1-111    Ci  ll'-  I.iiil  !\     .lllrii.  I'M  :    IM    1  II'' 

I    ^  u  'M"    ,'  ,1. 1    ll  iiii-i  ! !    ;.   iiM  !i    1  .|    li'.iniiiU'. 

'I   1;.  ,1     ..;  •      .    -■    .    I    ■   •  iii  \i  .  \\\  ,\  -1,1  I  I  ;.'.i  N-.        >il    .'.  '    ''liil  call 

\|  .  .!      :      .    .    ■  i:  1 1 1  -.  1    I   i; ;-  ill'  I  Mill    I--  -I  '.  '■;,  i  ..I  >'i-    ir  !  ;i'  1.111. !  < 

.    II     111  .1,  '\     i'.    I  ; ',  -ili;i-r    iii  .  i-m:..;    lini'...!  ■  :     i   -i.iii 

,  ,  -         .       .  :       !  .1         1 

:   .11    I.    .Ill     '     ...k  ■.     M  (  l;.r 


ii'»  .Ml-  »  : 


SOt'i  A    JOURNAL    OF    THAVKL.^    US 

much  larger  than  the  salary  of  the  Fresident  of  liie  I'nlted 
States. 

Sir  Joseph  Banks'  efforts  in  favour  of  science,  have  nor 
been  those  of  a  mere  stiulent.  Yon  will  reniembei-  he  ac- 
companied die  celebrated  Captain  Cook  in  one  of  his  vo}- 
ages,  and  in  the  narrative  is  mentioned  under  tlio  name  cf 
Mr.  Banks.  Dr.  Solander,  a  learned  Swede,  was  also 
with  Ui:n. 

The  sanie  gentlemen  also  visited  i.he  Island  of  Iceland, 
and  we  have  an  acrounr  of  their  chserv rations  in  t'le  let- 
ters on  Iceland,  drawn  np  by  \  ;!:i  Troil.  who  was  al^o  of 
the  j^arty,  inoro  than  thirty  years  since. 

On  the  whole,  there  is  no  ma.!i  in  r.u'iiand  i-etter  enti- 
tled to  lead  ia  science.  th:in  tills  eniiiK'iU  veteran,  and  I 
imagine  the  august  assembly  al  his  Icxh-s,  would  give  a 
stranger  a  more  tavonraine  idea  of  the  intelligence  and  ur- 
banity of  the  English  tiiari  any  olher  wliich  he  could  fre- 
quent. 


Xo.  XXY.— LONDON. 

Bromplon  (janlct — Chi.-lsca  C4arden — Che 'sen  Hospital — Beaut » 
of  the  j^roiiiids — \'elt,'raris — Saeipijers  of  Cariiiu'ic — vJU'arigei* 
easily  distiiigiiiftlied  in  Londoii — 3U;tid)rai\',s  \ery  munertius  in 
Loiulon — Refuge  for  the  (k-.-,litiite — Inadeiiuacy  ot  tiie  ridicf 
ad'orded  Ity  iiuhlic  and  privaie  cliarity  —  A  successfid  hcggar  - 
Soldiers  and  ;;ailors. 

ERO.MPIOX   AND  CIIF.Le-E  V  GVRDEXri, 

Jiih/  1. — A\  ith  a  coni|)anion  I  \valJ;ed  out  this  morn- 
iu'r,  to  the  l>olanicai  (iardcns  at  JJrompton,  a  mile  and  a 
m\['  from   JIvde    Park   corner.     These   an;  the  gardens 


I  \    ;  *.Nn.  fi'tii.  VM)   .\\n  •~(<'>'vi.  \\\>. 


Hill'  'ii  \s  >■[<■  1  iil;i\  ,it'<i  ii\   ill''  l.i;'    Mr.  (  ui  li--.  .1  man  (!i>- 

"  -li.  ■'   I'lf  |,i>  1 1.. Ill  ;',(■, 1 1   kiMU  l-'ii'_i'.  .r'.i  well  Isi:.  i\\  ii  tij 

,  .1  ■    •.i\  ill''  I'ni.imi'  il   N|;ij;i.'.mi'  w  ln'ii  lir  r.  .miii'  i.-.l, 

:■,    ;        i    \\  :\\\    \ii\     hiMUliiil    c.rliiin.ii    in,'i.i\i:i    »-.       lii-- 

i   '  .  .ill  -  ,11'    'Hiw    ]i;i:i!i-l!''  i.  \\  III)  lict.iiii'Ml   |iriii!-.  -'1  |"i- 

'iis   il"i:.'.    till!  ;:ii  \     I'liik  .i!iv(iliiii|\    liki'    inih':  ll'i\iiT«- 

■.  ;  i  I  l.iiit-.       i   \i^it'.l  lli>-    'j.ir.l'iiv  Willi  ,1   |i  11  lu''i!:ii'  \i<\\ 

'■■  ■    '.-'■'  1  ::i  ill     \ui'  tin  1-    l!ii'\    \^nii!.  I   hr  I -r  ll-i     l'>   I!!'     ill   !•'. '!v- 

.:    liHii'    1.1 ''  r    l!n'  r'|i;ili-|ll^   nl'  l|iil.lll\  .    |.i   U  lll'-'l     i    \'.  1  -ll    111 

• :  '.  :  ■  N  M :  1 1 '  ■  1 1 1  ; , ' ;  •  - 11  I  i  i !  ■«  v  1 1 1 1 1 1 . 1 '  1 .  I  1 1 1 1  I  1 1 1  ■ '  I  ■ '.  1 1  •  \  - 
_  i-,l'  Lil;iM'i.  1  -::.i!l  lie  •■iltlll'tl  I'l  \  i'-il  tin  ill  ,1  |'|im>- 
(1  '■.  ,i.!,i  •..  m,iiv<'  II-''  "l'  a  liiiiaiiii'a!  li! imi'n  w  iih  ii  i^  !\<  ;■! 
',  '!,.  •.'as.  1  .1.  ail  1  uMiu  r.  i.i\ '•ili''P.i''  -  JiT  >!ii.i'>  \'.  iiii  'i  it 
.iili'i'i-.  1  tiii.ii^  I  >irill  MiiiictiiiU'^  iiialM-  il  all  ali"i  ii'i'Mi"-' 
I'  :i  rat  i;;i;  111 .'  ill'-  \v  .irai  w  1  alia  ;'.  I"r.  u  !i  at  11 11  hi-  a  iin  ■!  <" 
'iaii':'i!    I .;;  ■■-iiiii' lit   lliaii    I'l  >'\i'li.in.''    iIh-    ijii-aiv    ',\  ilh 

•  U'.'l  1    i\<  nil  iT till'  viraiii^ llii'  iii'i^''.  ainl  iIk'  iiaiM  r-a.l 

>  I  iiiihIp  .'I   I  .laai'iii.  ha  I  la-  1  |i;li't .  I  iir  li  aL'iaia  a  ■,  llir  iM■au- 
■^  .  .lai  ila'  ill-!:  ai  ;'i  a;  i<',  I  la    (  taiii'  11-  "I   I'lia  an;  ii '  ai. 

^\  i'-.aaij  t.i  cwaiMii  I'  ila  ~i'  '^'afl'  11  -  w  illi  l!i"-'  a!  '.  In  !- 
-I  .1.  w  '■  \\  alk'-i  ha,;  a  aal''  I;m  tlaa  ;,.  iIimm.  \\  c  Inan,! 
■ ';a;  lla\  l"  I'.aj  i"  :i  ■■"niliaDX  •  a  a  j  >•  a  ia  aai  a  -  i ::  I  .ini  l":i, 
1 1  a!  I!  ■  ■  ■  •■  ■■  a  [:'  ■■I''  i'li'iu-i!  11  .>:  I'i'  i;'  p.ii  li'-aiai'  \  a  u  -. 
ilai    ,  .,■  i.  --    .irai-Nvil,!,'  i,,,.;,   il,,  ■<-,■  ;,(    I',!  >  a  1 1  ]  il  <  a; . 

I  !j'  \     Ml    -    .1    I.I    in'     ;i  I  m  :•  .i    Hi"  ai       •  '  'alilii-    ja  !;:■  i ; '1'  - 

'   ■''■     '   •     f"     111   ' .'  -I     ill   lai-     |i  a,  ;  a      I     ;     I'l  i;i   '.a''   'ala  I 

\  'i.a  iiiii    il  "  II  .|i  a  >aa'-i  'I-,  .1  Mini-  "i  i.  '.'  i''"'>-!mi  ■ 

1 '   ■ .  :    n;   I. .  ('■  -  ^'■'  11  .11,1  '  \  iial  '•  1 1  111    a  '  'i  r  I' ' 

\\  .     -,:U    h.'l.'  a  fnlk   lia,     'n      ,■  •  ..<\K^'''. 

■  a  li.i'  via  I, a-'    1    1  \ri.  ,r,'  !  I' 

•    I     jila  lit   1 1|     (ill  li.i . 


•298  A  JOURNAL  or  travels  in 

CHELSEA  IIOSI'lTAL. 

In  tliis  excursion  we  visited  Chelsea  l!OSj)ital,  erected  by 
(^.'larles  II.  lor  the  reception  of  soldiers  worn  out;  or  disa- 
i)led,  in  the  service  (if  their  country.  The  number  of  pen- 
sioners at  this  time  is  about  five  hundred  :  the  out  pension- 
ers are  ten  thousand,  and  they  receive  eacli  twelve  {)ound« 
a  3ear. 

The  grounds  connected  with  Chelsea  hosj)ita]  covci 
about  forty  acres.  The  front  of  tliis  hospital  extends  a'>oul 
eight  hundred  feet,  it  is  constructed  of  l)rick,  and  makes  ii 
liandsome  appen ranee. 

Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  the  grounds  about  this 
hospital.  It  stands  on  t!ie  Thames,  and  every  rural  beau- 
ty, formed  by  avenues  of  trees  and  green  fields,  is  heighl- 
ened  by  gravelled  walks  and  ap]n'opriate  statues.  I  mean 
to  describe  mei'eiy  tlie  impressions  which  1  received,  for, 
'  am  well  aware  th;it  the  gardens  are  considered  as  !)eing 
hud  out  in  bad  taste,  because  the  lines  are  straight,  yet  av- 
enues c»f  trees  and  verdant  fields  v/ill  ever  be  beautiful. 

\V"e  were  in  the  dinin'j-hal!  \\lien  th(>y  were  laying  thr 
tables  for  th.c  veterans  of  Chelsea  hos])ital.  3hi;iy  of  then 
are  lio:ny  a'ld  bov.ed  down  with  yc;irs.  Here  tiiey  re- 
pose, till  the  king  of  terrors  shall  sle.d  silently  to  tlioii 
beds,  witliout  the  jUMUp  and  neise  of  haltle.  and  the  iuur- 
flerous  we.ipons  of  wai'.  .Mv  rime  did  not  iiermit  me  to 
gratify  the  strong  curio.^ity  wh;(  h  1  lelt  to  inquire  in.t-.> 
the' private  history  of  iadi\  i(hj-''.> :  to  h-nra  what  "h.iir 
breadth  escape.-,"' ;?;ic'i  one  I. ad  met  with,  ••' in  the  inmii- 
nent  deadly  bre.ieh,"  and  to  !  -ad  him,  iasi'u-ilily,  to  f  ir- 
i:et  \\io  d('ri-ei-iM(].'  i. "'  a^-e  ;ovJ  Wi>;">  N — ku;  'S-    ^^■ii■!    iiif 


Nil    \ M I .     M ■  I     !    \  ^ 1 ' 


1   I     \  N  i). 


-  '  "t 


-    \v  t  ,  .'    W    Ml. 
I'l!,    !,;      :;:,     '•'   ,i  <■    I'Mi   ^.Mi.-r    iv.   Ill    ,  \>-y\    |i m    ,,f  it. 

,       •;'     'LiM'-.  Ill-      i'lV       I-     .1     -'"IJ.       hi-     -<IAhC       1-,      ^1    \l     If,     ||is 

Mii,i'iiii!s   ::ti.lt.  !li>    il.ilrjris  Iii'ijih  lit     .iilil   i':wiii;iiin.    his 
,■.1:11    l.il,;i>!'';i_-i|i  -il'il  ;ill'l  illll.llil'  llti'i.  ,111(1.  il    lir   >.|l\  i\  1'. 
^  ■  ii>  I   ,1-c  i  -  (!i  ;,i  ii,!,iiil,  N  .K':nit  .illil   llll-i'lahlf. 


-M(  i.i.rri:-  (ir  c  \Miii;ic. 

.///,'//  'J. —  \ hi II II  :i  \\  (  ik  -iiicr.  ;i-  I  \\  ,iv    Ti  iiiriiiii_r  hi  11  111' 

"111  [ill    .^;i  ;iiii!.  ;i  -iii>n  f..i  iii.iii.  In  a  -r:.i  i<  t  \*  .li-tri  ..it.  ml- 

:.  ->i    i  iiic   111    ihi-  -i\h   :   ••  V'Miii';   'j'-'iih  ;ii:ui — -ir— \.iiir 

•1  >■■]■  ■■■    >,,  r,,f  i\    t  i;.  -.  ill  -lirli  i.ijipl  -iHci  --i,iii.   in  I'i'" 

;■  i|i  -iiiM  t,  \>  hi-ii  iir  I  li,;  iii-  niiriiii  |m  in\  1  u .  <iii.i  ^.'i,  1 

I    j.>\\    \   .1    .•  :   ••  \  ':  !'.''    ■_:"!  -'iii;i-  u;.  .■  |  ii-ik  h  rainhr.i', 

!!\i!i!h'i\     '"    I  ,iii-'.vi  1  ■■■  I  no  '    aii*l  u.i'ImJ  (111.    'I'.'-i.n. 

i  HI-  ]  1,1  ■-'•:■  ■    ji-  '!^  .[[■>■)■_  !  Iiulinrii.  a  .!  l]<n\  sinjh-i! 

;■  !  nil  \\,  1!  Il  111--  r\  r.  .ill.i  .'  II'T  I'  iI  iiiw  ii:_;  mr  ,i  t,  w  pan  X 
'  ,:  .  :  ',  li,  ■  ■  '  • .'  !.  -aiil.  \i  nil  a  !  1  s  .  1  .  Ill'  >  -  \  III  i>  :  ••  -a. 
-  '  .  V,   I!  \  I '  I  !:';\    a  iilili'  I'  ;■■  ii'ai  1   Miihrii'  .-    I  ha  \  !•  -1  iinr  \  !■- 

\  111  •.""  I  '1 1,-!  \  ■  I  ■ .  il!  1.1  it  w  nil  il  r  il  1  ,iii-  ■.'.  '!>  ,1  iM  ' 
:\    I'l  ;  iiiiuU  :    |.i'.  wiial.  tliMi:.'li|    I.  i-.    thi'i't-  ni  iii\'  .ip- 

"   ill-  11     laai.i-    ih'-i      'illiW  ^    If.i.-..'     lilr     In     h  i  i, 

I   :    .'Il    laiiih':''.        Ihi'S     \s  lat'  iiiii!iiah!i  i:l\    smiL.  u'hi  -    "i 

',  M  1:  !'  |i-.  a;  ;  iiai  (  il!l'l  cvaili'ii  i-l  i!>  .'r-  i  ;!  I'  la\s  -  ni 
:  ^  "In   ai  ■■  iMil-'anil  s    pi  ai'ti-'  ,1. 

il    I  ■         M  ,      .^        '    hn  A    --,1   ill    I  n_ii.  N   ,,:     a  !  1    ■  i  •  -i  1  :  pt  :  i  a  |  n    \\  ■  j ! 

'.M  iM. ■..-']  a  Iia'l.irr  I'l  l.i  U.lnil.  (  niiiaiiaiij  !!;.•  ininli- 
t  .'  •  .'.  i.n.  nil  ;'i'  II  l,r-.I  al  I  ;i  a!  Ill  I'll  .  Ill'  Il  npnh-.  s.;;nil<  1" 
lalnl.jM      ;h''      -•  '  ■   I    I-,    -I    r.  ill   !    Ill     l'\rr\     ndlinll     aral    jnl,;,    Il 

■  '.  !i'  n\  I'l    a    sh.    ji     ia.a-,    t.ii  ir    i  -    III   |i  .  ■!    im  w  nil   i'l    that     all 

'■'      '    'Il 'If.  In;   -Tail.;.  ;-.       I'  H.  |.  !  i\  i-;:  a  m  iii  v 'i  - 


3U0  >\    JOl  r.XAI.    OF    TRAVELS    IN 

has  l)0(:n  accusroirtpd  to  large  towns  in  other  countries, 
come  ti)  London,  unci  dress  himself  in  the  strictest  fasliion 
of  the  day,  and  from  the  shops  of  Enjrlish  tailors,  let  him 
walk  fast  ihioiieii  tlie  streets,  as  if  he  neither  saw  any  body. 
nor  cared  for  anytliina',  let  him  even  strut  and  look  brave 
and  knowinir,  like  a  Londoner,  still  the  rogues  and  beg- 
»rars  will  find  him  out.  The  former  will  track  him  in 
crowds  and  assail  his  pockets,  and  the  latter  will  pursue 
liim  in  the  streets, and  supplicate  his  comj)assion  till  tbey 
liave  received  a  six-pence,  and  then  pour  blessings  upon 
his  liead  till  he  is  out  of  hearing. 

j\JE.\  Die  ANTS, 

July  3. — As  I  was  reading  in  my  apartment  this  after- 
noon, 1  heard  a  female  voice  in  the  street,  sa\"ing,  in  a  tone 
of  anguish,  ''  ()  !  tor  heaven's  sake,  have  compassion  on  a 
poor  distr(;ssed  woman  V  Tliis  petition  tor  cliarity  was 
addressetl  to  a  servant  of  the  house,  who  ha])])ened  to  be 
at  the  door. 

The  number  of  bea'aars  in  the  streets  ol  Loudon  is  ver} 
jjreat  ;  in  some  streets  they  occur  every  lew  steps,  and 
among  them  is  a  verylariie  i»;'0])ort!on  ol'old  women,  and 
a  consiilcrahli'  uundier  of  young  womi'U  with  infants  \i\ 
thiir  aims.  \\  in  n  1  lia\<'  bestowed  a  trifle  upon  them.  1 
have  sonietiiues  heard  i'liLilishmen  say,  '•  O  these  peoplf 
are  impostors — don't  mind  them,  \\iV\-  niake  a  trade  of 
it."'  'i')j!>  may  lie,  in  some  instances,  true,  and  probahlv 
is  ;  bu!.  wlieii  one  sees  aire,  decrepitude,  j-;;o"'-.  eniaci^uiou 
,i\n\  (.■\treni(;  di'j(M  tion.  and  that  in  a  woman,  conipassio:) 
vill  be  awakened,  esjjeeially  when  a  w  j-i.tched  mothei 
carries  Lei'  staiAiii"  inlfuit  In  her  arm.s. 


KN'  I  \n:).    mi"'!  I  \  \n    \  M)  - 

ii  Is  v:i,,i  ili.i!  li;''  iii^i'.KiliMMs  m|  1 1  :c  (  >  ui  > ;  I  %  air  Mil';'- 
.  M  :,t  tii  [11  ..\  i,i.-  i,,r  i1m -r  i.i.ijii..  \\  ;i\  ti,i  n.  a:-,  iln  <, 
I.,  ii  jiios  iili',1    I'nr:   ,111^1    ii.  as  I-  ,i"i  ri>  .!.  iii'A   pi  rl'fr  a  ui'- 

■  I  \  a'_raiii'\  .  Ill  till-  w  in  ili  v,  ,nii  j  a  > '\  isi.  ai^  ,,|  ;i  i  h  i' .1  t  <•  iiar- 
ii\.  \\ii\  li'ifv  ma  till'  [i.-lia,'  ta'v  t!i' an  up,  aail  i'!>!:_. 
Mm  111  I.I  I'l  '1  i\  '■  1.  la  i  III  a  ii'_'ii  ir  u  a\ ,  am!  In  in  iM-  w  Im' 
-•  in  111'  lati  ia  1  lif\   i-aii  !.«,  ih.ar  lal'.aiia 

i'.at.  I  ;i<  1.  i-  nasi  ,n  ii  1  iitlii  \  1'.  \'\,i\  in-  i-l  '.l'  tin  la  .in-  f.  - 
.Mi\    Till'    \i.  1 1  iilii  s  w  ia  an     ill.  \    a  i'l  M  ,11   1. 1    h' ■.  .la- 1  !  iial    Iw 

■  hai-'ji'  111    iin|iiisiiiri'.  s.i  riiii-ta'ai\    i.iv' '1   a'.aai^i  i!ir'..i.  i^ 

Inn    ll  1  ijiaailK     U     I  I  l!l'Ji'    nl'     s,  l;,vj||,,  ,.,   W  lli;  il    is      jii  lail  inliV 

•Ainu  jin\  I  1 '  \  aa.l  snn,  i  iii'_'  imm.!.  lail  [unjiiM'  u  m  a  jilia'- 
Miiit  riiaiiU  Is  iiiii.  ..,'ili  ii!\  111  ,iii  |.  las.  \i,  In  II  >!  is  n,- 
jin  lit.  lirraiisc  it  i  iirmira''  <  \a'j|-aiir\  :  lua  l!n'  linlli 
•  •Ms  til  111'.  III. :i  tin  liijii  |i;ni'n|  j  .r.  i\  isn  ais,  \\,u:i  'a 
laiLa.a'a"  aa.!  irii  lai-.  aia!    lln    \'  r\    iia  niiij"  ii  iii   \\a::i's  ui 

..i.'ji!'-    Vtii'i  ii,i\''     a  1  Iia  !'•.    iiiiK'     iii'iili     laal   s,iia-iiiij     ai 

l.".l':n'.. 

\s  ,1  [, I  ill  A  il,,  .,1    ail-  ani  ilm  '  11'  la-.ais  iiiij  a  .-ssioi'.. 

I  a  - 1 1  11  '  r.  \v  !,■  -1'  nj.j .  ii  I  ii.a  a  s  i,  a'  .  I  s,  i\ ,;;  n  'ii  ha  \  ' 
'■  '  I  I!  Ill  a.  -■-  a  i!  \  i  I  nil!  I'l  I.  1  \N  lil  I  ma  it  a  '11  .i  lai  I  in  pnim  .  I 
'lis  pn  s.'i.t.  ni'i  Inii'j  a_"i.  ai  ,i  i.iiiin  i  in  I  ,i  'iiii  'ii.  w  la  ir 
\i  |i'  s'lUii-  >'\  tin-  iiinsi  aiti\i  prnaini'  is  .i|  a  m  \s  liuai.i.a 
I  -liiiila'.i  im!Ii' a 


i !  1 1 ,  I ;  r  M  • .  1.  ( .  1     ill 


Mill 


i  .11  >    '_•  i\  !■  Ill     I  laai   pi  n-jii  I  Ills.  !i,an  w  iia  li  im     Inili  u  - 

Is  .111  .  \  1 1 . :  1  I . 
"■     I   :i'-   nli.i  il    'All.'   II    tills   ^mnl  s    li,|\  1-    III   \  |i'\i  ,    ,s    1,1    pill- 
a-  i'l  11'      nl   I  i-l'i    .',   |ii|     I  1  I  s,,i,,   .Pi,,  Imi  .',  ,i   I, ,,:,,   |.|  ;  ,. ,,,. 
'a"  lii'k  -,  ana  a  tail  ,u-  .nal  i|.s,  n,-  \  ;,  m,,;    ,.  ..mi  i  li.i  i  ,. 


302  V    JOURNAL    OF    TliAVELS    l.\ 

who,  from  loss  ot"  cliaractfr,  or  extreme  indigence,  can- 
not procure  a;i  honest  maintenance  though  wilhntr  to 
work."' 

■'  When  it  is  consiflercd  that  thousands  in  this  metropo- 
lis subsist  by  dishonest  j)ractices,  whilst  some,  it  is  muc'i 
to  be  feaved,  2)crit:h  from  want,  before  parochial  relief  can 
be  obtained  ;  an  undertaking,  t;;nd:ng  to  remove  such 
evils,  cannot  fail  to  receive  the  most  general  patronage  and 
support,"  &c. 

That  thousands  do  sufier  here,  "  though  willing  to 
tvork,"'  and  that  some  do  ••'  perish  from  want/' there  can  be 
no  doubt. 

You  will  see  \h(^\o  wretclicd  beings  sunk  down  in  the 
streets — under  the  eves  of  the  houses — on  the  stejjs  of 
doors,  or  against  the  corn' rs,  apparently  asleep,  but  there 
is  much  reason  to  belie\e,  that  they  are,  in  some  instan- 
ces, finding  a  refuge  fjr  ever,  from  hunger,  and  the  re- 
pulse of  pride,  pleasure  and  aflluence  ;  that  ret\ige  where 
the  widccd  cease  from  troubling,  and  the  weary  are  at 
rest. 

1  am  not  insensible  of  the  glorious  pre-eminence  ^vhich 
this  country  holds  above  all  others,  in  the  number  and 
magnitude  of  its  charitable  institutions,  nor  am  I  ignorant 
of  the  unparalleled  extent  of  private  munificence  ;  but, 
still,  t'.iere  is  something  wrong  where  things  are  thus,  and 
these  humane  Englishmen  who  are  foimding  the  refugr' 
for  the  destitute,  have  proved  that  they  think  so  to(t. 

Another  considerable  class  of  beL^crars  in  London,  con- 
sists of  those  who  have  lost  some  of  tlieir  organs. 

There  is  an  unfortiuiate  man  whom  I  pass  fre(|ueinly  in 
Ilo'born.  whose  lower  limbs  have  be(Mi  amputated,  cl(.>s<'to 
his  body,  so  that  he  hus  neither  legs  nor  thighs,      llo  --il'-^ 


I-  N'.I..\M»,     li'  'l.I    \  VT'     -.Ml 


.  N.W. 


.^U,. 


iji.in  a  liltlf  -Ir.l,  \<i  uii:'  :i  I  '■  1-  :.i-i'  ;;•  <;  l.\  -fiaj-i,  aiv. 
iiiM\  I  -  IiJiiimIi  h\ci  iirii!  N.  i,i.«'.  >  ■  lii'  Jfil  \\,\\\  IniM^'  i.'  a? 
TNciy  rtl^Mt.  Hi;!  li'  i>  liii  i;  -:  mict-. :.;!!.. -mi  i-  |  .,,|j 
fi'iM.  au.i  that ''^  fY/  ■•  /-'  f'( '■■ /■  .V  _  <-.  I  ii'  i.-.i-:.  ;\  s--uih.;! 
iilN  ^'.'^  1.  u  il!l  li>  ii  !  1  '  l:i^  hall.'.  Ir.M  !.■  \  ■  r  N,.ij,  i[>  dial  i- 
i\r\ti!!n  al'.'k.  I!:-  '•  i-i  !:■>•>■.  r\ , a  -|u;.;.-.  iI.mjm,  ni!\ . 
aii'i  ^  ,  Ii  111-  '<"■■  .1  !;■-  ;,  IN-  ill,,;  a^  x'j.  ai  ^av  -  h.r  lia- 
latiiv  ■_''!>  .11  ,1  >:  I'i'ji;;';-  ia  la  ...  ':•_>■  ','.  i!!i  a  !■  a  i  ;.  !i  .•!  ^lA  - 
laal  la, a  lie  1  i..  ai.i-.  11-  >  'M'  ■-  ,il;  .  :  !aa-  -Mi.'iilai  .  a:i' I 
ha-  lai  aiia!'._  \  \v;;!itli"-i  >.  ■  a.li  ai .  ■  I ',.•.'  mi'  •  ••!  ■>  ul  I  li>  m 
I ' ma;  k^. 

It  !n  a  \  .  ■,  en,,!.!;.,!!  ;  ill!'  ;  In  n-  \.<  an  it  ill  'm  u  !ai  lia\  ■ 
!(,-;  a  1'  '  'a"  aa  .irai.  aa-a  at  pn  '  'a.  tmhv'  ;,  ,,(lr'i'  nuiiiinis 
. .,  -I  iliiia-  w  i.  ,  !  .i  i'i.  i|-  I  \ .  .  ill  !',!'  I  '  V  I,!  iaii  <■  ■.  a'-.iitaai 
rt!v  !ii'  ir_  lii.  ir  !'!■■  ■■'':  ia  .  ia-  -.:i-<  's  la'  I  .mh  |>.ii.  '1  li;  - 
i,i:  ■!  ■!  iiaa'  i"  a  I  i  !;i;  aai  -  '■:  ;':•!;!.  in  I'a'  i-ai  iuiil:  iIc'-.i  i  !> 
■  a'  i  :■.  '  '  .ai  1  ^'ai  '.  !;■  la  tia'  i  >  ;'  ^  'i-M  d  laMi  aial  lijit. 
,iaa  111''  i,|ii\i  iu'  a  •  ■  •  la  .:,  ;  i!  !  >  '.'.  i  \\  <  \'-.  ! .  \  tin  Im) 
\\  ill.!    :     oi  ■  a  la    .  ;  ;'..  ,!a.' a.      I    kunw  iinl 

w  :a.    I!ii  \  '•.:;.    ^la-  \\  .    'jov -a  hiiu  iil 

iai_^!il  I  I  la'  ■ 

^.i:!.,;-  li.  '  .'  ;ai\  ia.;.:'I  ■  'hi'  a  ii  'lit-  nailal.'  i<\  \\\: 
x!|,/!-,,,  ,;  a  i,.  -.  -i'.  ai  .  I'l  ia,i,,'ll.  hinhl  i'.!' ^  !■  I  :iil' s 
^  f '-"/.■■•■  '•    -■■lallarj.    t.'u   .aim    in    v.^ia.    -.A/    La^'/c/ti!  f 


as  \\  1,1 1  II  IN  t  ■  :.i  !i  111-  -I. a  !■  a.  ir.  i  aa  ^HT'  : 
i  a  1 1 •  >  a !  1 1 '  ,a I -. ■  a  ami  a i  1 1  , •  r  -  ;  i ;  I >  r, ,  i ■  a i  \t\ 
a  'a;  •■--  i  -a  ili''  !l  a  ~a  la  • ,  v\  a  ii  i  >  i!  aini 
ii-.     :l'i'        !',■!■     ■'■  '     -•<':■.    (•;'   la-   lli- 


304  A    JOrRNAL    OP    TRAVELS    iM 

ioLis  luxury,  and  tlie  unbounded  profusion  of  the  fashiona- 
lile  world,  who  mi'^ht  lind  nobler  pleasures  in  relieving 
distress  and  providing  for  honest  but  suflering  poverty. 

July  4. — The  tlRn-mometer  stood  to-day  at  82°,  whit:h 
is  high  in  this  climate  ;  the  heat  was  the  more  oppressive, 
because  the  prevailing  weather  this  summer  has  been  thu? 
far.  v«ry  cold,  even  for  I'ncland. 


Xo.  XX VL— LONDON. 

'IhimiiiarKi!!  wit'a  inl'.ainiuahle  L'as — Its  beauty — Xalnrc  nJ  Iht 
t'onti'h  ;.iiifC— -Tlio  roj-al  socicly— A  picture  gaUery — Deiincr'f 
•iaiigiUei— A  iHiJU'ni<;- [.ioce — Jo.-cjpIi  and  l'oti|)!!ai'"s  wife—  At- 
'eaipt  til  delineate  Jelioiah—Kiiviroi!'  of  London. 

ir.Ll  AJLNATION  V.  ITH  GAS. 

i  had   uecii  \\\\\\  a  ceimnanioii  into  Hyde  Park,  to  see 

:ae  ^erpeiuuic  canal,  and  the  .'lock  of  swans  wrdch  ar^ 
.-u.ffered  to  swim  un  nolcstrd  upon  it.  v/h.en,  on  oiu'  return, 
ihroui^a  ricudiJly,  we  were  iiiiiuced  lo  slop,  near  All'any 
iiouse,  h\  an  uhj(  ^t  of  ;-<on!e  curiosity.  \n  infjenious 
apotlr.'^'.irv  aiiii  chemist  lias  contiived  to  !ig!it  his  shop  in 
A  wvy  b'UMiiUil  i:.:i;;ner.  by  nioai:-  (;f  the  iiidamaiablo  gas 
i,/i):ai:.cd  fViiT'i  -'.is-il  coal,  h  i--  !he  -anio  tlii:"?  with  the 
;  iiev.-iiod.'ii.ip  of  vi'liioh  you  Iriv  hc.ird  much  in  \nicrlca. 
V,\'v.r.  new  i'liMi  l/\'  sv  hi'di  ini';!;'V  <an  be  !n;idf.  is  o! 
''oar.'-.e  \.'[)\  s!ci'i:t  iu  i.tnulo!!.  as  wol!  .)■•;  e\ei'y  whcrceNe: 
I  look  ilir  'J'erty  In^v.ever,  cl'  aivir.'j  llic  owncn'  of  tlio 
^hoji  to  i.er;;iit  nK' i<i  -of  liis  a[)j)aralns.  lie  ri'fiis<d  al 
tiiM.  h\\{.  tn\  WW  -d^vAnm  \n\\\  that  J  wa*^  not  a  co)nnierc\a.; 


i.  V  .   •  Mi,    II'  •!  I  A  M>    \n;>    -i      !  I   '  n  :•. 


s(l. 


■  i    Ir;uliii_'  ;ii;iii,    aii'l  w.in   ;i<(:i:iti-'!  S'lli  1\    i  \'  cn!  ii 'vit\-.  In- 
L'  ii^i-iit'il.  .111.  I  b><\  mi'  i'.  ■'.\  11  I'l  il.ii'. 

'V\\i'  i:;ii  irti:r.;iM'-  L-is  1^  cMricati-c!.  smijiK  !i\'  ln'.itiivj 
I'.iniiiion  |.iv,|l  ,',ial  in  ;i  iiini.irc.  \\\\]]  ;i  [iiii]ifr  iipjciiiitiis 
I'l  j  III -s  -III  I'l.  (■>'•  ijM'  111'  I  lie  l:,!-.  ill..!  til  (I  i;  111  II!  t  it  iiilD  ;i 
I  ir_'i'  \ .  >vt  1  ,,]  \..  ,[,  r.  u  lii.il  roil.  !iiivr>  till'  [lit  uiniiHiii>  !!i.ii- 
f'-i  [I  -I  :ii!ilini:  !,ir.  lui'l  -i  ■>.  i.-.l  i.th'  r  |ii(i.iih;>  u\  ihr  .li-iil- 
lili-'ii.  th.il  'iM  Ii.n  ij;i  III  till'  iMiiiciii'i!  d'.;. 't.  'I'lir  -;i> 
lii'lir,'     tl;:i^     \\.i-!ii.i     ,i;|.|     ]  riri  i;,-,  |.     iv     :,l!ii\M"i     tii     ;iscri,(l 

I  111  MU'j  ;i  :i  111.1111  1-1  111-,  .iii'l  I--  tli'-ii  '1'  -!i  i:ii;Ii'' !.  li\  I  in  •■ill-;  (it 
iitinT  tu'i.  >  riilH't  ii|..,l  ill  l!i!-  vt,  ;.,-!i;;  I'  i.|'  ll:.-  id.'lli.  .''I,.! 
i.r:'.!]i-iri;ij  lili  ii:  <  \c\  \  il  '-ii'-'l  liin  rlii'ii.  till.  ;it  !  i^I.  tl.t  ■■, 
(  ni:linu:ili'  ll>'  W  ilii  -i-.ilir.  -,  ,ilii;;_:  ;!r'  \\  .;  1 1-.  ,i  IM  I  \\  i;  ll  cIi  lU- 
11-  !•.  i»,  i!i-ji.Mi''ii,'_'  tfi'iii  I'lji'  I'l  it,  ill  ^i.i  ll  il  tiiii!::''!'  Iii.if 
till'  '_  >  i--:ii  -  ii;  -;].  i.ii-.  il  ■  I'l  Ml  ill.-.  >  -I'.i.  .'..'.  i  \'.  iii'K'  til..' 
r;!r,.i'.,'->  .'Ml'  CMiiiilli  111!  \    ji!.  '■'    ;.       '1  Ir  :''■  ll   i-  --i''  ''M   l.li'.iiii'l 

II  .nii>  \-i'!  A  !ir  luiiiii!  I'l-.  '  :  i'  : '.!<'.  i'l  "f.  ,it  i  h  i ;  i  1.;  iir  \  .  ;;;;i.l 
II' ',!!  ilii'i;  iiciii'j  iiii:;icl'ii;i^,  |i  ir  :  .  .iii'i  |  "  unli  . ;.  .iiui  <.',  :i\  ii.'j 
w  It  ij  <  ■'.  I  !  \  ill  •■  i'  'i  '  .|  ::ir.  ;'ic'\  !i  ;\  >■  .I'l  <  ili  ri  ,'|i,;.  .^;  iii  '  'c- 
;il.  :miiI  -I'-'iii  :i-  i!  I'll  1  1 .'.  '■  I   '.i  iili  :i  l.ii!.!  I'l    ■ 

'i  ill'   ■■,[-   i^    -nliU  t;:.li  -    ':,:;   '■     1    ;   ■   ~r..lii     li.    .  •    .  .         :i   ;-. 

\'  '.'  11  !i   1'  .|   i;-  I'll '  !•  -  '  '1  :!  ;  nil-  :     ;ni. ! .    .  i;  ■~''. .' ! .  •  .    .      i,  i:,.. 

■    '     III"    \   ■■/]<  •\   '.I    t"!  ;ii->    \'. 
,:..      .  ,  > .    ;.i  ■  IJ-  !■,  iii'..'  t  ii.\  ■  lit  ■■'  . 

i    'A   •-  ,  -  -  ::i'  :   lli.t   i:,i  \    ll.i'ii  1   l''!-  Ill"  !  '  '       ', 

,   '  ■  ■  !.;'  ,i|    III  1.1   ill'    ri'iMi  .         .  ■        '..  ''.'.I  1     i  1.! 

'.'■.:.,     .  -  111 '!  u  1  11  ;i.l  ipti  '  1  i   '  -  : !    ..  :  I'l  ii:;:.!  '  i 

,    M'^.     :.-     i':i  |i'    ;■>     ,;,i  n  1  ..ii     I'l  -•  in  .!  i . ,  _    i  I:  '  I    \v  ! .  ir  ,  i 

ri..;!   :     l!:iv  ..:.'.;■  i;;,    \     !■■;;,  \.  .it.'l    I   \ 


30G  A    JOURNAL    OF    TRAVELS    IX 

The  cxponse  of  the  apparatus,  and  its  liabiht}  to  acci- 
dents, tuiiv.s  another  obstacle  of  magnitude,  and,  en  the- 
whole  it  is  probable  ihat  it  will  not  be  generally  adopted.' 

t:ie  royal  societv. 

1  was  inlroducod  here  by  the  kindness  of  Sir  Charlc:-; 
.f'ia<2(len,  to  whoai  I  had  been  indebted  for  other  attentions 
and  wh.i  hatl  left  my  name  with  the  door  keeper,  with 
piopcr  directions  for  my  admission.  Sir  Joseph  Hanks 
was  1)1  tl;e  cl;;t",r ;  he  wore  a  cocked  hat  and  a  star  on  his 
br.'ast,  and  his  scat  w"aS  considerably  elevated  above  the 
g(  -.i'.;;"!  level  of  the  room.  It  appeared  to  be  a  full  meel- 
ir;.',  'i  lie  tUiartment  was  ornamented  with  portraits  of 
i^k:!  •ii'-ui!;  ;:'.slie(!  as  ciillivators  or  jjatrons  of  science. 

The  ;'-ecretary.  5>r.  Wollrston,  was  reading  a  paper  con- 
Taisiiii'i  an  acce.unt  of  tLe  aiialysis  of  a  new  variety  of  the 
ston>.  c:ill-:il  zeolit!'.  It  was,  of  course,  merely  a  recapitu- 
htion  of  ci:  .'luical  proc>^';ses,  no  part  of  which  would  be 
i'''':-r;,Miin',r  lo  von.  Th/is  wa^  the  whole  business  of  the 
c,-,'a;i!'r.  exi,(  j)!:  tiir- ri''r/LSsion  of  some  new  members. — 
TiK.'   5  i;-.s''ient    tlien  adjuurned   the  I^ociety,  till  the  7th 

of  An>  .■;;,!;,>!•  iioxt. 

AU',^  I..;''  one  :na\  l"arn  from  their  traus(if/ioii\'  every 
i:iij '!! trint  arid  iiitere-iiing  factwi^ich  occurs  intln'rosal 
f;ocicly,   still,  it   is  a  source  of  rational  s.uisfjciioii  to  ho 

*  Air,',  ir  IS.  Thi^  iiiK(anc(!  inc!>!i')iieil  ill  the  tr-xt  proved  Imt 
tho  lie;  ii'iuiij;  In  Lo;ii!i)ii.  It  is  well  kiiow!;  diiU  Uih{  cily  i=  now 
(  'ui'iisiN  r-l y  lighted  tiy  trii-,  fuid  in'<i!);i!jly  iitly  niilc.T  of  pij'O  iiiivo 
111  (  ,1  !,  iii  iif)'.\iiiii  [,((i,(l,)n.  It  rcinaiii-.  yel  t(i  I'l'  srcii  wliclher 
t':"  '.h'.'v.r  ^'  id  jK'v  its  \>.;.\-  ill  till!  Iiiiii;-  run  :  iir>i!,alily  il  wilK  luit 
t'icri'  i<  iiu  I'^'as!).'  lo  iMdicvo  il  \\  ill  e  i(;i' aiis^MT  lo  inlrodiice  il 
i  i1(.  I  i!\-.t.i'  li.iiiM'-,  Hide.---  tiicy  arc   so  --iliailcd  iis   Id  be   supi-liod 


jjii  -''u:  r.i    iHp    n\    |1|.    iii^t  veil  iiiii'ii-    i,.-,,i.  -  111  ill''  ui'il'i  ; 

.1  ^i"i'I\    \^  ill'  'l   li.i>   in  I'll  llM!  II, 'II,    1  |i\    ill,     jilr.;   !•  ;i(\    m'    .. 

N'-wlmi.  iiii'l  \vlin>c  ji,iii.!<  |iri'vi-iit  i  m.'.-v  ni'  vi-|,'iu;' 
uhi.  ii  h  I-  |n"!'.iliU  M"i  li'  ••11  ,'ii  |j;iNsril  lis  thr  i\(  :  t  ;> 'lis  .■: 
,i'i\    i.'"':^    Ill  li  ,11  1!.  ,|   iiMii. 

Til.-  \(  .111- 111',  ,.1  >.  !.  11' •  >  u  IViii-.  i:i;';'r  t'lr  cM  _',.%- 
.  iimi.ut,  .Ml. I  ill'  \.i',i"ii  il  lii-liiut.-.  uii'li  I  ihc  1,1  w.  \:d\<'. 
il  1^  !|-i|.-.  lii-l'l  :i  l"ii  J  I'  1;  ill  111'  'i  I  is,ili_\  u  il:i  till-  II"'.  :il  "^i'- 
,i,  t\  "i  l-.'M'i'iii.  It  ;-  ii"t  i;-  I  ,  ->  11'.  lu  ;i'.,'i^'  lii'  i.'  ''"H- 
I,  ll.llilj    (  l.iiiil-  :    ij"ril     lii\>'i!"lli       iiiin  il.    :ili  I     il     i;,il,iii|,il 

|l|f|;|iii,   '■>      i,ll,-l  \M   .l\  '•      lil'■|^MK,■^     li:      lllllll|>      III      Th    ii.-i    . 

i;  i^  a  u  I'.ik:,'-^  ni  imui.iii  ii.ttuir  \sii;i  li  iMi'jiit  I"  ln'  i'Ji- 
_ '.  \  I  I  . 

.!■/'■:  ,. —  \  .1;-;!  '-;i!"!i  !"  :"■  tii-'ii.  '..'  r,  i,iiii.i-,-''iir-  in  tin 
.  !,\  ,11.1  .;;  I-.  .iii.i  ji  ,1 ;;  -'il  II  I .  i:i  |i.iiiii^;i_  .  i-  p'  ■ '''  '''■>  "-^ 
I'l  til'  iim-l  'ji'iii-i  i!  I;  iil>  "I  ti  .i\i  111  I  >  i:i  jn  'il~Ii'  ,  iii'Ui- 
liii-^.        \^   I   iii!i'ii\    i:i-i',iiiii    .ili    [in  I'  '1-1  niN    I, I   li,,'    i<   il 

p'. inn    ,,|    lii:^    ril.,!    irln  ,    1     will     11   M     :m1\     11. il     \-r       '.illy 

iM  .ill' i-:ii;.'    ii.       I  !  -,.'  ,i\  11,  J  I'!    iiu    \i-i;    :iii-   iii.iiii:ij    t') 

li)'       I;    |.     :.    -.    (  ..,;..  ...    w  irrii    i.    -.,v[  In    1 1-'   "I  lin'  lilli-I 

I',.;    -  ;i.llll'll:_  -    ill      I  ill      I    l:.'i.     I     ^il.,!l     lln    I  '    'nil'        ,\  f 

\  I .  ,  'iriiii'-    iiiijiii  --Ml)-  II!    I'll"     i.iijii.i'  Ii-'  'i    111 

:iil  .ili'iii. 

I  :  .  .  \    I  'i;:i    .,i>      i'."  'I     I. Ill'     h'l:;  ':■'  ■!    i,irti;i'  -  "! 

i'  •     i  )  ,'    'i.   I   i'  m'  -'i.   I   I'  1,1  il.  <  i'lii!  III.   ^,,  I'M-li.  ,111  i     It.ii- 

1 1  ii'_'i  'i    ill    I  ;  _  'it   l.iiji'    I'  I";'.  1-,  li_  Ii'iil  ii"i  111 

.   lillt    I   ■-  n  >.    -'I     I'.   x,;\i      I  .).,|||    VI  •   ■    I- 

;i     i-^   i  ;  ,  ;i     -'    i   'a  itii  tin    i!-    t  i.i  .t 
I  !iiv    r..ll.  .  'i'-;!     \\  ,1- 


303  A    JOURNAL    OF    TrtAVELS    IX 

the  duties  of  importation  alone  amounted  to  four  tiiou>and 
pounds,  and  that  the  total  expense  of  removing  it  from  Vi- 
enna, including  that  of  the  building  in  which  they  are  ex- 
hibited, was  twelve  thousand  guineas. 

Description  can  do  but  little  in  conveying  an  idea  of  th* 
beauties  of  painting;  I  will  )ncntioii  only  a  few  pieces 
wiiich  gave  me  particular  pleasure. 

There  is  a  portrait  of  his  own  daughter,  by  Denner. 
which  you  wouid  prondunce  to  lie  life  itself,  and  not  a 
painting;  so  po-i'ect  is  the  very  living  tint  of  the  skin,  the 
soft  moisture  of  the  eye,  and  the  colour  of  the  veins  and 
lips.  Denner  had  been  distinguished  for  painting  the 
heads  of  old  ))eoj)]e  with  wonderful  accuracy,  and  he  drew 
this,  the  only  portrait  of  a  youi:g  face,  v.hich  he  ever  took, 
to  silence  tliose  who  said  be  could  paint  none  but  old  faces. 

In  the  third  aprirtoKut  are  two  lai'w  hunting  pieces, 
the  one,  o!' a  wiM  boar,  and  theotiier,  of  two  stags,  attack- 
ed by  dogs.  T:;:.' vvilu  bo'ir,  after  having  made  great  hav- 
oc amo;ig  his  canin>'  ;;iif'!;:i-->,  is  at  jc.igth  overpowered  by 
numbers,  ar;d  sure]  -, ',  if  ever  swine  had  any  thing  of  expres- 
sion in  his  f;.';e,  /i.'-v  is  ma.rked  by  'violen.t  indignation,  jrriel, 
and  dcsp'-dr. 

Tlio  st;;'/s  toi)  are  in  tiie  same  desperate  situation  with 
tiie  boar.  ar.  i  v.hiiethey  are  fastened  upon,  on  every  si(k', 
by  their  furiosis  foes,  tlicy  have  a  .SY'fw,;'/'g  digriily  in  suffer- 
inil,  w!urh  is  enough  to  disgust  one  witli  the  cruel  pleas- 
ures of  tiie  chase. 

In  the  next  room  are  two  pieces,  representinsf  domestic 
fowls  attacked  by  hawks  ;  while  thcv  are  sei/.ing  on  tii»'ir 
defenceless  prey,  the  co)i-..ternalion  of 

■■  'I'lie  crcstL'd  cock  witli  ;iil  his  t'.'iiialr  traits.  " 


»..st;i.AM>,    Ul>ll.^^■n   \sit   s(,,  .7  i  «,nl).  M>\i 

uU'i  till-  ti '']ihia!i<i:i  I'l  [III    (,!r!i.'-r"'«  Ijis  .  !uii!iiir_'  t'l  vii,-c,iiii 

f!n-    lial;l    _\;ilii.    ,iiC  f  \  j  ir<_^.-''.l    ill. I    IIMIMl'i"    vshlcil     liclhil!,' 

^lll;  11  ilMiT  cm  I  Tiiil. 

I  !i'  II'  i^  .1  (III  till!'  ni  ;i  u.iiniin  r,irr\in^  ,1  caiMH'  in  ill*' 
»la;'%.  :ii;il  Iml  tiir^:  In  r  ii.iiiil  li<  Unr  ii  Im  scii»  11  it  Insii  tin' 
>>  iii'l.  u  !i<'ii-  \\[r  |,,ii  lial  tian-jiai-.'iu  V  of  tin-  liii-.'"'!  ^.  an  I  tin' 
lull  ri  ilcci'hin  1,1  i'vht  hni;!  \\i  \  tarr,  aif  inn^t  Mir[iriMiiul v 
-('  I  mate. 

'I  i;'' |riinti'!>  MTiii  t,i  I)as'' hi^ni  \(  rv  foiiil  di'  iih^-par- 
t.i'filar  -^iinirt.  I  iir  ail  tlir  -I..i\  of  .lusipji  ami  li'i>  uwi-- 
I'  I  ^  will'.  I  III  1 .'  w  en-  ill  i!ii>  <_m11i'i\  ihi  Ii\\ .  I  liiaii  tiui  <" 
painiiiijs  111'  ill!-  v!,,|-,  t)\  liiliii- lit  allies.  'Ihr  iina<ji's 
ill  Iiufatiil  liy  -  Hiril  lAiii  ail-  ^uflirii'iiiK  lii^limi.  uii!ii"n 
I 'i-  .1:  1  I 'I  ill''  j I'  II'  i I.  ami  \  III!  mas  ra^ll \  ima  jiii.  .  I liai  tin' 
III  ■ra!;t_\  I'!  ihi'  -mi.'  Iia-  n^'t  '  aiih'il  mmli  in  iiir  !:  ;  id-  ..|' 
'.'■:<■    (.aiiii':~.        I  111  n-  M'.iii-    tuiji^a     /r  '  n! '•  1  jin  fn, ■,'.<.    a- 

\-  I  I  iilin  I  I'll'  -I'M  ii'!i  runm.  iIm'  lir-'  [M.-riii.-  uiii.'h 
I  ai;'j!it  m\  i-\f.  \va-<  a  |iii|li;iil  (^l  i.;-  ,,\\n  .  iai;  ^  lii.  i,  !i  v 
<  ■.  I'.i--^  I  i.  I  ri.,iM  iiiil  li  i\  .■  mil.  .  ]s,  I  iImI  a  I'll  hll  i' 
'  'i'M  1;  :\|'  iliti'r"-Ii  I  nil  -..  iiririi  ;  lull  llii-  w  ,r-  i.m'  1  I 
' ':'■    \  '  r\    liiH'-l     la.'.  -.        I    iirl;,  \  ,     H,,'   |  i,i'.    u  ^'i,M    i.'.I   'u..\  ■' 


\i-  1  ;:■■  j).  .\\  1  I 
■  ;.  1  -!,■  Ml : 


1;  ^ 


i;i,..:iii  --  ai,.  1    -•  :  1  11- 

.'•.    ::',;':  I     I       '     •   \  1 1  I  ;i  -lull   1  'i 

,    •  .        -     'M,-.  I.M 

!  I  !  ','.  .  •  :;  a     i'l    '11'  ;  ■>    .  I '  :i- 

r.  \'.  .'I'rii    -    Mill-  ]f<\K    m    I'l  1:  - 

irtaii     1 -  ■  !  :.       ! 

:  1 1 .  a  I  a  1    \v  i  I ; !  I    !  \v  ■  • r . 


310  A  JOURNAL  OF  TRAVELS  IN 

a  most  distinct  and    lively  impression  of  this  delightlui 
countenance  is  present  to  my  view.* 

I  wiil  notice  one  paintinir  n\orf,?<r\d  that  shall  be  the  last. 
It  was  a  \'cyy  feeble,  jjcrlsaps  a  ver}'  improper  attempt,  to 
reach  the  a-.vful  sublimity  oi  its  subject.  This  was  no  other 
tl'.an  GofHhe  Father  ui  his  ^lor}/.  Altliouch  it  was  a  por- 
trait nf  a  figure  resembling  man,  the  artist  had  attempted  to 
shed  aiuund  it  the  icarful  radiance,  slirouded  with  the  im- 
penettable  obscm'ity  of  the  throne  of  Jehovah  ;  but  on  this 
subject  tlie  pencil  is  iinpotent — the  strongest  lines  are  fee- 
ble— the  most  glurinij:  colours  are  faint.  Let  the  painter 
forbear,  nor  attemi)t  to  delineate  the  God  of  glory. 

ENVIRONS  OF   LOXDOX. 

At  the  close  of  a  very  warm  day  for  this  climate,  feelin»' 
a  strong  impulse  to  enjo}  ,  for  a  little  while,  the  fme  air  and 
scenery  of  the  country.  I  wnlkcti  with  a  conijjanion  up 
Ilolborn,  to  Gray's  Inns,  and  thence  to  the  very  out-skirts 
of  tin*  town,  and  into  the  country.  JSotiiing  can  exceed 
t!i<>  beauty  of  liie  environs  of  lx)iidon,in  many  directions, 
(.hardens  with  every  esculent  jn'oduction  in  perfection  : 
ilowers  and  plants  of  ornament,  as  well  as  utility,  either 
frrowin2  in  liie  o]»en  air,  or  in  green  houses,  which  are  nu- 
merous and  extensive; — fine  fields,  cultivattd  as  if  they 
were  gaiileu--,  and  without  an  inch  of  wasie  irround  :  pas- 
tures of  creat  luxuriance,  grazed  upon  by  ihe  inn.uiaer;d)ie 
cows,  of  a  luiiie  and   bf^autil'ut  breed,  wh.ich   supply  Lon- 

'  Home  (lays  alter,  I  visitei!  this  i;alleiy  again  v\  itli  a  IVioiu),  a 
inan  (4"  ta-ie  iuul  .-if-ii-t'.  Wiiiioat  dftfribinfc  tlic  coiiMtfiiaiicf,  I 
told  liiiJi  I  had  !.fMj!i  iTiucJi  iiiterosfeii  hy  a  t'ac",  in  tlie  stniMilh 
;'no:n,  and  !  ('(jiip-'.cd  ii;;n  to  [joint  uni  li.c  ti'n-l  cttuiilenance  thrrc. 
\\i:  had  '■i::iiTr';y  (iniv  to  c:i~t  id-:  I'Xv:.-  ai'ound  aini'nga  ninltitndc 
gl  picture-;  bvturt  he  tfii,;:le(.i  uu  •>  c;'y  o;ie  v,  hicii  1  had  adniirct!. 


f.XU.  \>n.     11"1,1,\M»    AM>     *t''>(l    \M>. 


,.i   I 


umi  ultli  milk,  aiul  a  lni^'liii_'  )M'pul,iiii.ii  liunxiii-  (..  ,i!i.; 
trnin  iIh  iih-IiiijioHn  : — .ili  ii'.sc  iliinj^  i-.Mii''!ii<'  to  livt  lire 
\  i'iniiv  of  I  .fin  ii  111  iIh'  ;iir  f  i'  a  t'lii''  pi'  I'M  >  ,  u  iiii  ;lii'  aiMi- 
I'lMiial  liitii''vt  cv'ili  il  lis  -II  iiiiirli  lilr  arnl  fiii'll"ii.  ^  (Ui 
ui'il  iniilcr-Iaiiil  tln'-r  ninaik-  In  a|i|il\  Ii;  t!ir  innin  '!  mtr 
li'i.  ill  in  111  111  I' II I  III'  I  .(Mil  111).      W  ill  I  ill  a  \  ■  r\  'i  \\   mil.  -  \  mi 

llil,!    llii.vr     r,imM:i>    il,v,-'v.    I  !,.:;;wl,.\^    |i.,,'ii.    I".  1  ir  ;,-|irat  ll, 

W  .1  iiK\\"iirtii  i-iiiiiii:iiii,  .,ii  1  a,  Mi\'  I'llii'i-  :  ju  im  i.iiii'j  ma- 
!i\  -ijiiarr  mile-  nldn  ii\  ;'ii<";li  i\  aii  d  U'rritor\ .  sn  iniir.^ 
iin\v<'\iT  ti'  -li<  \\  II-  lii  ■'.  mill  li  .'.rrjlaiii  hnh's  lu  ri,!li\a- 
laai  ;  li-r  tiif-i'  jilari'-.  -iih!  <  lla  r-  nl  t'a'  kiml  in  ililliTi'iii 
pail-  f''  r.a-laiiil.  arc  i^o;  in''.: |i(  !t  1 1  lirca  i^c  ilir_i.  arr  ]!♦■- 
•  iiiia'l'.  Iiarr'ai.  fur  we  ni'ii  !i  timl  in  liif  iiThl-t  ni  tin  in  an 
(y'/x/,'. —  I  I'l  rlik  .-p"l  ill  till'  .ic.-»at  —  iinl  appar.  ii;'\  a-  pix- 
•;'M  livi'  a'-  aii\  111  t'u  ill  -t  riilii\  all  li  [i  n  i-  nl  ila-  n  iiiiiliv 
I'h  iuf»  n  nine  aiul  t'ai  ii'i  i'M  k  \\  »■  raiutii  u  lu  u,\\\k 


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